Taste3 2008
Benjamin Wallace: The price of happiness
Benjamin Wallace o cijeni sreće
Filmed:
Readability: 3.9
2,178,942 views
Može li se sreća kupiti? Kako bi to doznao, pisac Benjamin Wallace kušao je najskuplje svjetske proizvode, uključujući bocu vina Chateau Cheval Blanc iz 1947., 200g govedine Kobe i poznatu (ozloglašenu) Kopi Luwak kavu. Njegova kritika mogla bi vas iznenaditi.
Benjamin Wallace - Author
Benjamin Wallace is a journalist and author of The Billionaire's Vinegar, the true story of the world's most expensive bottle of (possibly phony?) wine. He's been a contributor to GQ, Details, Salon and The Washington Post. Full bio
Benjamin Wallace is a journalist and author of The Billionaire's Vinegar, the true story of the world's most expensive bottle of (possibly phony?) wine. He's been a contributor to GQ, Details, Salon and The Washington Post. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:16
I'm just going to play a brief video clip.
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Pustit ću kratki video isječak.
00:22
Video:
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Video: 50.000 funti.
00:23
On the fifth of December 1985, a bottle of 1787 Lafitte was sold
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Petoga prosinca 1985., boca Lafittea iz 1787. prodana je
00:29
for 105,000 pounds -- nine times the previous world record.
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za 105.000 funti – devet puta više od prethodnog svjetskog rekorda.
00:34
The buyer
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G. Forbes.
00:36
was Kip Forbes,
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Kupac je bio Kip Forbes,
00:38
son of one of the most flamboyant millionaires of the 20th century.
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sin jednog od najživopisnijih milijunaša 20. stoljeća.
00:41
The original owner of the bottle turned out to be
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Pokazalo se da je izvorni vlasnik boce bio
00:43
one of the most enthusiastic wine buffs of the 18th century.
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jedan od najstrastvenijih ljubitelja vina 18. stoljeća.
00:47
Château Lafitte is one of the greatest wines in the world,
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Château Lafitte je jedno od najboljih vina svijeta,
00:51
the prince of any wine cellar.
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princ svakog vinskog podruma.
00:53
Benjamin Wallace: Now, that's about all the videotape that remains of an event
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Benjamin Wallace: To je sav video zapis koji nam je ostao od tog događaja
00:55
that set off the longest-running mystery in the modern wine world.
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koji je pokrenuo jednu od najdugovječnijih tajni u modernom svijetu vina.
00:59
And the mystery existed because of a gentleman named Hardy Rodenstock.
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A tajnovitost je nastala zbog gospodina po imenu Hardy Rodenstock.
01:04
In 1985, he announced to his friends in the wine world
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1985. on je objavio svojim prijateljima u svijetu vina
01:07
that he had made this incredible discovery.
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da je otkrio nešto nevjerojatno.
01:09
Some workmen in Paris had broken through a brick wall,
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Neki radnici u Parizu probili su cigleni zid,
01:13
and happened upon this hidden cache of wines --
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i nabasali na skriveno spremište vina --
01:16
apparently the property of Thomas Jefferson. 1787, 1784.
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navodno u vlasništvu Thomasa Jeffersona. 1787., 1784.
01:21
He wouldn't reveal the exact number of bottles,
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Nije želio otkriti točan broj boca,
01:23
he would not reveal
exactly where the building was
exactly where the building was
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nije htio otkriti gdje je točno ta zgrada
01:26
and he would not reveal exactly who owned the building.
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i nije želio otkriti tko je točno vlasnik zgrade.
01:29
The mystery persisted for about 20 years.
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Tajna je očuvana nekih 20 godina.
01:32
It finally began to get resolved in 2005 because of this guy.
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Konačno se počela razotkrivati 2005. godine zbog ovog tipa.
01:37
Bill Koch is a Florida billionaire who owns four of the Jefferson bottles,
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Bill Koch je floridski milijarder, vlasnik četiri Jeffersonove boce,
01:40
and he became suspicious.
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koji je postao sumnjičav.
01:42
And he ended up spending over a million dollars and hiring ex-FBI
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Na koncu je potrošio preko milijun dolara i uposlio bivše FBI
01:46
and ex-Scotland Yard agents to try to get to the bottom of this.
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i Scotland Yard agente kako bi došao do dna ove tajne.
01:50
There's now ample evidence that Hardy Rodenstock is a con man,
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Danas postoji dovoljno dokaza da je Hardy Rodenstock prevarant,
01:53
and that the Jefferson bottles were fakes.
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i da su Jeffersonove boce lažne.
01:55
But for those 20 years,
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Ali u tih 20 godina,
01:57
an unbelievable number of really eminent and accomplished figures
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nevjerojatan broj stvarno eminentnih i stručnih ljudi
02:03
in the wine world were sort of drawn into the orbit of these bottles.
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u svijetu vina bio je uvučen u orbitu tih boca.
02:05
I think they wanted to believe that the most expensive bottle of wine
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Mislim da su željeli vjerovati da najskuplja boca vina
02:10
in the world must be the best bottle of wine in the world,
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na svijetu mora biti najbolja boca vina na svijetu,
02:13
must be the rarest bottle of wine in the world.
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mora biti najrjeđa boca vina na svijetu.
02:16
I became increasingly, kind of voyeuristically interested in the question of
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Mene je sve više zanimalo, nekako voajeristički,
02:21
you know, why do people spend these crazy amounts of money,
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pitanje zašto ljudi troše te sulude količine novca,
02:24
not only on wine but on lots of things,
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ne samo na vino, već i na mnoge druge stvari,
02:27
and are they living a better life than me?
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kao i pitanje žive li oni boljim životom od mene?
02:29
So, I decided to embark on a quest.
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Pa sam se zaputio u potragu.
02:31
With the generous backing of a magazine I write for sometimes,
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Potpomognut darežljivo od strane časopisa za koji ponekad pišem,
02:34
I decided to sample the very best, or most expensive, or most coveted item
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odlučio sam kušati najbolje, ili najskuplje, ili najobožavanije
02:41
in about a dozen categories,
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stvari u tucet kategorija,
02:43
which was a very grueling quest,
as you can imagine.
as you can imagine.
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što je bio vrlo mukotrpan zadatak kao što možete zamisliti.
02:45
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
02:46
This was the first one.
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Ovo je prvo što sam kušao.
02:48
A lot of the Kobe beef that you see in the U.S. is not the real thing.
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Kobe govedina koju vidite u SAD-u često nije prava stvar.
02:51
It may come from Wagyu cattle,
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Možda dolazi od goveda Wagyu,
02:53
but it's not from the original, Appalachian Hyogo Prefecture in Japan.
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ali ne i iz Appalachian Hyogo prefekture u Japanu.
02:56
There are very few places in the U.S. where you can try real Kobe,
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Postoji vrlo malo mjesta u SAD-u gdje možete probati pravu Kobe,
02:59
and one of them is Wolfgang Puck's restaurant, Cut, in Los Angeles.
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a jedno od njih je restoran CUT Wolfganga Pucka, u Los Angelesu.
03:03
I went there, and I ordered the eight-ounce rib eye for 160 dollars.
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Otišao sam onamo i naručio 200g rebara za 160 dolara.
03:07
And it arrived, and it was tiny.
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Meso je stiglo, i bilo je majušno.
03:09
And I was outraged.
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Razbjesnio sam se.
03:11
It was like, 160 dollars for this?
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Kao, 160 dolara za ovo?
03:13
And then I took a bite,
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A tada sam zagrizao,
03:15
and I wished that it was tinier, because Kobe beef is so rich.
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i poželio da je još manje jer je govedina Kobe vrlo bogatog okusa.
03:19
It's like foie gras -- it's not even like steak.
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Nešto kao foie gras (guščja jetrica) – čak ni ne sliči na odrezak.
03:22
I almost couldn't finish it.
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Skoro da nisam mogao sve pojesti.
03:24
I was really happy when I was done.
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Bio sam presretan kad mi je to uspjelo.
03:26
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
03:27
Now, the photographer who took the pictures for this project
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Fotograf koji je slikao za ovaj projekt
03:31
for some reason posed his dog in a lot of them,
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iz nekog razloga je uključio svog psa na mnoge fotografije,
03:33
so that's why you're going to see this recurring character.
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pa ćete zato stalno viđati ovaj lik.
03:36
Which, I guess, you know, communicates to you
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Ovo vam, valjda, govori
03:38
that I did not think that one was really worth the price.
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da nisam mislio da je ta govedina vrijedna cijene.
03:42
White truffles.
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Bijeli tartufi.
03:44
One of the most expensive luxury foods by weight in the world.
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Jedno od najskupljih jela svijeta po jedinici težine.
03:46
To try this, I went to a Mario Batali restaurant
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Da ih probam, otišao sam u restoran Maria Batalija
03:48
in Manhattan -- Del Posto.
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na Manhattanu -- Del Posto.
03:50
The waiter, you know, came out with the white truffle knob
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Konobar je izišao s gromadom bijelog tartufa
03:53
and his shaver, and he shaved it onto my pasta and he said, you know,
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i strugalicom i sastrugao je tartuf na moju tjesteninu i rekao,
03:57
"Would Signore like the truffles?"
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"Da li bi Signore volio tartufe?"
03:59
And the charm of white truffles is in their aroma.
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Šarm bijelih tartufa je u njihovoj aromi.
04:01
It's not in their taste, really. It's not in their texture.
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Nije stvar u okusu, zapravo. Nije u teksturi.
04:04
It's in the smell.
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Već u mirisu.
04:05
These white pearlescent flakes hit the noodles,
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Ti bijeli, biserasti listići su pali na noklice,
04:07
this haunting, wonderful, nutty, mushroomy smell wafted up.
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i proganjajući, divan, orašast, gljivast miris se uzdigao.
04:12
10 seconds passed and it was gone.
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Nakon 10 sekundi više ga nije bilo.
04:14
And then I was left with these little ugly flakes on my pasta that,
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I tada sam ostao s tim malim ružnim listićima na tjestenini,
04:18
you know, their purpose had been served,
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znate, koji su ispunili svoju svrhu,
04:21
and so I'm afraid to say that this was also a disappointment to me.
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pa se bojim da moram reći da mi je i to bilo razočaranje.
04:24
There were several -- several of these items were disappointments.
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Nekoliko – nekoliko stvari na popisu su bila razočaranja.
04:28
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
04:32
Yeah.
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Da.
04:33
The magazine wouldn't pay for me to go there.
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Časopis nije htio platiti da idem ovdje.
04:35
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
04:37
They did give me a tour, though.
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Ali proveli su me, ipak.
04:39
And this hotel suite is 4,300 square feet.
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Ovaj hotelski apartman se proteže na 1.300 četvornih metara.
04:42
It has 360-degree views.
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Ima pogled od 360 stupnjeva.
04:44
It has four balconies.
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Četiri balkona.
04:46
It was designed by the architect I.M. Pei.
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Projektirao ga je arhitekt I.M. Pei.
04:48
It comes with its own Rolls Royce and driver.
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Uključen je vlastiti Rolls Royce s vozačem.
04:50
It comes with its own wine cellar that you can draw freely from.
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Uključen je i vinski podrum iz kojeg možete slobodno uzimati vina.
04:53
When I took the tour, it actually included some Opus One, I was glad to see.
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Kad su mene proveli, bila su tu i vina Opus One, kako sam zadovoljno primijetio.
04:57
30,000 dollars for a night in a hotel.
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Noćenje u hotelu stoji 30.000 dolara.
05:01
This is soap that's made from silver nanoparticles,
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Ovo je sapun načinjen od srebrnih nanočestica,
05:05
which have antibacterial properties.
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koje imaju antibakterijska svojstva.
05:08
I washed my face with this this morning in preparation for this.
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Oprao sam lice njime jutros pripremajući se za ovaj govor.
05:11
And it, you know, tickled a little bit and it smelled good,
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Malo je bridio, znate, i miriše dobro,
05:15
but I have to say that nobody here
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ali moram reći da mi nitko danas, ovdje,
05:17
has complimented me on the cleanliness of my face today.
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nije dao kompliment na čistoću mog lica.
05:19
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
05:20
But then again, nobody has complimented me on the jeans I'm wearing.
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A onda, nisam dobio ni kompliment na traperice koje nosim.
05:26
These ones GQ did spring for -- I own these -- but I will tell you,
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Ove sam dobio na poklon od kompanije GQ – moje su – ali da vam kažem,
05:30
not only did I not get a compliment from any of you,
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ne samo da mi nitko od vas nije dao kompliment,
05:32
I have not gotten a compliment from anybody
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ni nitko drugi mi nije dao kompliment
05:34
in the months that I have owned and worn these.
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sve te mjesece koliko ih imam i nosim.
05:36
I don't think that whether or not you're getting a compliment
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Ne mislim da su komplimenti
05:38
should be the test of something's value,
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dokaz vrijednosti nečega,
05:40
but I think in the case of a fashion item, an article of clothing,
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ali mislim da je u slučaju modnog detalja, komada odjeće,
05:43
that's a reasonable benchmark.
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to razumno mjerilo.
05:45
That said, a lot of work goes into these.
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Ipak, puno posla je ugrađeno u njih.
05:47
They are made from handpicked organic Zimbabwean cotton
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Napravljene su od ručno branog organskog zimbabvejskog pamuka
05:51
that has been shuttle loomed
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obrađenog na tkalačkom stroju
05:54
and then hand-dipped in natural indigo 24 times.
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a zatim 24 puta ručno umočenog u prirodni indigo.
05:58
But no compliments.
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Ali nema komplimenata.
05:59
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
06:00
Thank you.
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Hvala vam.
06:04
Armando Manni is a former filmmaker who makes this olive oil
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Armando Manni je bivši filmaš koji proizvodi maslinovo ulje
06:06
from an olive that grows on a single slope in Tuscany.
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od maslina koje rastu na samo jednom obronku u Toskani.
06:10
And he goes to great lengths to protect the olive oil from oxygen and light.
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I on se stvarno trudi zaštititi maslinovo ulje od kisika i svjetlosti.
06:15
He uses tiny bottles, the glass is tinted,
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Koristi male boce, staklo je zatamnjeno,
06:18
he tops the olive oil off with an inert gas.
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a maslinovo ulje prekriva inertnim plinom.
06:22
And he actually -- once he releases a batch of it,
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On – jednom kad proizvede kontingent,
06:25
he regularly conducts molecular analyses and posts the results online,
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redovito radi molekularnu analizu i rezultate objavljuje na Internetu,
06:30
so you can go online and look at your batch number
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tako da možete otići na mrežu i potražiti broj svog kontingenta
06:32
and see how the phenolics are developing,
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i vidjeti kako se razvijaju fenolici,
06:34
and, you know, gauge its freshness.
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i, znate, ocijeniti svježinu.
06:36
I did a blind taste test of this with 20 people and five other olive oils.
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S još 20 ljudi proveo sam kušanje naslijepo, uspoređujući ga s još pet ulja.
06:40
It tasted fine. It tasted interesting.
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Okus je dobar. Okus je zanimljiv.
06:42
It was very green, it was very peppery.
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Ulje je vrlo zeleno, na papriku.
06:44
But in the blind taste test, it came in last.
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Ali u testu naslijepo, ocijenjeno je kao zadnje.
06:48
The olive oil that came in first was actually a bottle of
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Maslinovo ulje koje je ocijenjeno najbolje zapravo je boca
06:51
Whole Foods 365 olive oil which had been oxidizing next to my stove
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maslinovog ulja Whole Foods 365 koje je šest mjeseci oksidiralo
06:57
for six months.
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u blizini moje pećnice.
06:58
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
07:08
A recurring theme is that a lot of these things are from Japan --
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Tema koja se provlači je da je mnogo toga iz Japana --
07:10
you'll start to notice.
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počet ćete to primjećivati.
07:11
I don't play golf, so I couldn't actually road test these,
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Ne bavim se golfom, pa nisam stvarno ovo mogao testirati,
07:14
but I did interview a guy who owns them.
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ali sam intervjuirao čovjeka koji je vlasnik.
07:16
Even the people who market these clubs -- I mean, they'll say
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Čak i ljudi koji reklamiraju ove štapove – mislim, reći će
07:19
these have four axis shafts which minimize loss of club speed
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da ovi imaju četiri osi koje minimiziraju gubitak brzine štapa
07:23
and thereby drive the ball farther -- but they'll say, look, you know,
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i zato bacaju lopticu dalje – ali reći će, gledajte,
07:27
you're not getting 57,000 dollars worth of performance from these clubs.
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nećete od ovih štapova dobiti poboljšanje učinka vrijedno 57.000 dolara.
07:30
You're paying for the bling,
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Plaćate sjaj,
07:32
that they're encrusted with gold and platinum.
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to što su optočeni zlatom i platinom.
07:34
The guy who I interviewed who owns them did say
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Tip s kojim sam razgovarao koji ih ima
07:36
that he's gotten a lot of pleasure out of them, so ...
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kaže da su mu pružili puno zadovoljstva, pa ...
07:40
Oh, yeah, you know this one?
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O da, znate ovo?
07:42
This is a coffee made from a very unusual process.
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Ovo je kava koja se proizvodi vrlo neobičnim procesom.
07:48
The luwak is an Asian Palm Civet.
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Luwak je azijska divlja mačka.
07:50
It's a cat that lives in trees,
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To je mačka koja živi na drveću,
07:52
and at night it comes down and it prowls the coffee plantations.
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a noću se spušta i brsti po plantažama kave.
07:56
And apparently it's a very picky eater and it, you know,
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Navodno je vrlo izbirljiva
07:58
hones in on only the ripest coffee cherries.
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i jede samo najzrelija zrna kave.
08:02
And then an enzyme in its digestive tract leeches into the beans,
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Tada enzim u njenom probavnom traktu natapa zrna,
08:06
and people with the unenviable job of collecting these cats' leavings
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i ljudi čiji je nezavidan posao skupljati iza mačaka
08:11
then go through the forest collecting the, you know, results
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tada hodaju šumom i skupljaju, znate, to
08:16
and processing it into coffee -- although you actually can buy it
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i prerađuju to u kavu – premda je to moguće kupiti
08:20
in the unprocessed form.
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i u neprerađenom obliku.
08:24
That's right.
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Tako je.
08:26
Unrelatedly --
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Nevezano za to --
08:28
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
08:30
Japan is doing crazy things with toilets.
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U Japanu rade lude stvari sa zahodima.
08:33
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
08:40
There is now a toilet that has an MP3 player in it.
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Sada imate toalet koji ima ugrađen MP3 player.
08:43
There's one with a fragrance dispenser.
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Postoji i zahod s raspršivačem mirisa.
08:45
There's one that actually analyzes the contents of the bowl
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Ima i takav koji analizira sadržaj školjke
08:49
and transmits the results via email to your doctor.
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i rezultate e-mailom šalje vašem liječniku.
08:53
It's almost like a home medical center --
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To je skoro kao kućni medicinski centar --
08:55
and that is the direction that Japanese toilet technology is heading in.
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i to je pravac u kojem se kreće japanska zahodska tehnologija.
08:59
This one does not have those bells and whistles,
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Ovaj nema sve te dodatke,
09:01
but for pure functionality it's pretty much the best -- the Neorest 600.
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ali kad govorimo o čistoj funkcionalnosti, najbolji je -- Neorest 600.
09:05
And to try this -- I couldn't get a loaner,
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Da bih ga isprobao – nisam ga mogao dobiti na posudbu,
09:08
but I did go into the Manhattan showroom of the manufacturer, Toto,
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ali sam otišao u salon proizvođača, Totoa, na Manhattanu,
09:13
and they have a bathroom off of the showroom that you can use, which I used.
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i oni imaju stražnju kupaonicu koju možete koristiti, pa sam je koristio.
09:17
It's fully automated -- you walk towards it, and the seat lifts.
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Sasvim je automatizirana – idete prema njoj i poklopac se diže.
09:20
The seat is preheated.
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Sjedalo je grijano.
09:22
There's a water jet that cleans you.
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Tu je i mlaz vode koji vas opere.
09:24
There's an air jet that dries you.
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I mlaz zraka koji vas osuši.
09:26
You get up, it flushes by itself.
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Ustanete, i voda se pusti sama.
09:28
The lid closes, it self-cleans.
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Poklopac se zatvori, školjka se sama čisti.
09:30
Not only is it a technological leap forward,
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Ne samo da je to tehnološki skok naprijed,
09:32
but I really do believe it's a bit of a cultural leap forward.
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nego stvarno vjerujem i da je kulturološki skok naprijed.
09:34
I mean, a no hands, no toilet paper toilet.
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Mislim, zahod gdje ne koristite ruke i toaletni papir.
09:37
And I want to get one of these.
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I želim si jedan takav.
09:39
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
09:43
This was another one I could not get a loaner of.
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A ovo je još jedna stvar koju nisam dobio na posudbu.
09:48
Tom Cruise supposedly owns this bed.
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Navodno je Tom Cruise vlasnik ovakvog kreveta.
09:50
There's a little plaque on the end that, you know,
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Na kraju je pločica, znate,
09:52
each buyer gets their name engraved on it.
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svaki kupac dobije ugravirano svoje ime.
09:55
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
10:01
To try this one, the maker of it let me and my wife
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Da ga isprobamo, proizvođač je dopustio meni i mojoj ženi
10:03
spend the night in the Manhattan showroom.
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da provedemo noć u salonu na Manhattanu.
10:05
Lights glaring in off the street,
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Sa svjetlima što blješte s ulice,
10:07
and we had to hire a security guard and all these things.
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morali smo unajmiti čuvara i sve to.
10:10
But anyway, we had a great night's sleep.
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Ali odlično smo spavali.
10:12
And you spend a third of your life in bed.
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A trećinu života provedete u krevetu.
10:14
I don't think it's that bad of a deal.
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Mislim da ova pogodba nije tako loša.
10:17
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
10:18
This was a fun one.
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Ovo je bilo zabavno.
10:20
This is the fastest street-legal car in the world
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Ovo je najbrži auto koji je dopušteno voziti na cesti na svijetu
10:24
and the most expensive production car.
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i najskuplji auto u proizvodnji.
10:26
I got to drive this with a chaperone from the company,
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Mogao sam ga voziti uz dadilju iz kompanije,
10:28
a professional race car driver,
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profesionalnog vozača utrka,
10:30
and we drove around the canyons outside of Los Angeles
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i vozili smo se po kanjonima izvan Los Angelesa
10:33
and down on the Pacific Coast Highway.
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i niz autocestu Pacific Coast.
10:35
And, you know, when we pulled up to a stoplight
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I, znate, kad smo stali na semaforu
10:38
the people in the adjacent cars kind of gave us respectful nods.
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ljudi u susjednim automobilima kimnuli bi s poštovanjem.
10:42
And it was really amazing.
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I zaista je zapanjujuće.
10:44
It was such a smooth ride.
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Vožnja je bila vrlo glatka.
10:46
Most of the cars that I drive, if I get up to 80 they start to rattle.
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Kod većine auta koje vozim, kad dođem do 120 oni počinju tandrkati.
10:48
I switched lanes on the highway and the driver, this chaperone, said,
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Prestrojio sam se na autocesti i vozač, dadilja, rekao je,
10:51
"You know, you were just going 110 miles an hour."
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"Znate, upravo ste išli 175 na sat."
10:53
And I had no idea that I was one of those obnoxious people
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A nisam imao pojma da sam postao jedan od onih antipatičnih tipova
10:56
you occasionally see weaving in and out of traffic,
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koje povremeno vidite kako vijugaju u prometu,
10:58
because it was just that smooth.
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jer je vožnja toliko glatka.
11:00
And if I was a billionaire, I would get one.
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I da sam milijarder, nabavio bih jednoga.
11:02
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
11:07
This is a completely gratuitous video I'm just going to show
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Ovo je potpuno neopravdan video kojega ću sad prikazati
11:10
of one of the pitfalls of advanced technology.
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o jednoj zamci napredne tehnologije.
11:12
This is Tom Cruise arriving at the "Mission: Impossible III" premiere.
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Ovo je Tom Cruise koji dolazi na premijeru „Nemoguća misija III“.
11:25
When he tries to open the door,
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Kad pokuša otvoriti vrata,
11:27
you could call it "Mission: Impossible IV."
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mogli biste reći „Nemoguća misija IV“.
11:32
There was one object that I could not get my hands on,
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Postoji jedna stvar koje se nisam mogao dočepati,
11:34
and that was the 1947 Cheval Blanc.
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a to je Cheval Blanc iz 1947. godine.
11:36
The '47 Cheval Blanc is probably the most mythologized wine of the 20th century.
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Cheval Blanc '47 je vjerojatno najmitskije vino dvadesetog stoljeća.
11:40
And Cheval Blanc is kind of an unusual wine for Bordeaux
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I ono je neobično vino za Bordeaux
11:43
in having a significant percentage of the Cabernet Franc grape.
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jer sadrži značajan postotak grožđa Cabernet Franc.
11:47
And 1947 was a legendary vintage,
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A 1947. je bila legendarna godina,
11:50
especially in the right bank of Bordeaux.
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naročito na desnoj obali Bordeauxa.
11:52
And just together, that vintage and that chateau took on this aura
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I ta godina i to vino su zajedno zadobili auru
11:56
that eventually kind of gave it this cultish following.
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koja ga je naposlijetku učinila kultnim.
12:00
But it's 60 years old.
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Ali staro je 60 godina.
12:02
There's not much of it left.
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Nije ga puno ostalo.
12:04
What there is of it left you don't know if it's real --
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Za ono što je ostalo ne znate je li pravo --
12:06
it's considered to be the most faked wine in the world.
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vjeruje se da je to najkrivotvorenije vino na svijetu.
12:08
Not that many people are looking to pop open
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I nema tako puno ljudi koji će otvoriti
12:10
their one remaining bottle for a journalist.
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svoju zadnju bocu novinaru.
12:14
So, I'd about given up trying to get my hands on one of these.
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Pa sam odustao od pokušaja da dođem do njega.
12:18
I'd put out feelers to retailers, to auctioneers,
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Poslao sam upit prodavačima, organizatorima dražbi,
12:20
and it was coming up empty.
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i nisam imao uspjeha.
12:22
And then I got an email from a guy named Bipin Desai.
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A tada sam dobio e-mail od čovjeka po imenu Bipin Desai.
12:24
Bipin Desai is a U.C. Riverside theoretical physicist
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Bipin Desai je teorijski fizičar sa sveučilišta Riverside
12:28
who also happens to be the preeminent organizer of rare wine tastings,
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koji je također ugledni organizator kušanja rijetkih vina,
12:32
and he said, "I've got a tasting coming up
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i rekao je: „Organiziram jedno kušanje
12:34
where we're going to serve the '47 Cheval Blanc."
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gdje ćemo poslužiti Cheval Blanc '47."
12:36
And it was going to be a double vertical --
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To je trebala biti dvostruka vertikala --
12:38
it was going to be 30 vintages of Cheval Blanc,
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30 godišta vina Cheval Blanc,
12:41
and 30 vintages of Yquem.
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i 30 godišta vina Yquem.
12:43
And it was an invitation you do not refuse.
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To je bio poziv kakav ne odbijate.
12:46
I went.
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Otišao sam.
12:48
It was three days, four meals.
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Trajalo je tri dana, četiri obroka.
12:50
And at lunch on Saturday, we opened the '47.
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I za subotnji ručak otvorili smo '47.
12:53
And you know, it had this fragrant softness,
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Znate, imalo je meku aromu,
12:57
and it smelled a little bit of linseed oil.
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i mirisalo pomalo na laneno ulje.
13:00
And then I tasted it, and it,
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A tada sam ga kušao
13:02
you know, had this kind of unctuous, porty richness,
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i imalo je gustoću, bogatstvo poput porta,
13:06
which is characteristic of that wine --
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koji su karakteristični za to vino --
13:08
that it sort of resembles port in a lot of ways.
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jer na mnogo načina podsjeća na porto.
13:10
There were people at my table who thought it was, you know, fantastic.
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Bilo je ljudi za mojim stolom koji su mislili da je fantastično.
13:12
There were some people who were a little less impressed.
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Bilo je ljudi koji su bili manje impresionirani.
13:16
And I wasn't that impressed.
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A ja nisam bio tako impresioniran.
13:19
And I don't -- call my palate a philistine palate --
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A ja ne – nazovimo moje čulo okusa neprofinjenim --
13:23
so it doesn't necessarily mean something that I wasn't impressed,
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pa ne znači bogzna što što ja nisam impresioniran,
13:27
but I was not the only one there who had that reaction.
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ali nisam bio jedini ondje koji je bio takvog dojma.
13:30
And it wasn't just to that wine.
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I ne samo kad je to vino u pitanju.
13:32
Any one of the wines served at this tasting,
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Svako vino posluženo na tom kušanju,
13:34
if I'd been served it at a dinner party, it would have been, you know,
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da je bilo posluženo na običnoj večeri bilo bi
13:37
the wine experience of my lifetime, and incredibly memorable.
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vinsko iskustvo mog života, nezaboravno.
13:40
But drinking 60 great wines over three days,
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Ali kad pijete 60 vrhunskih vina u tri dana,
13:43
they all just blurred together,
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sva se ona nekako pomiješaju,
13:45
and it became almost a grueling experience.
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i iskustvo je postalo gotovo tegobno.
13:49
And I just wanted to finish by mentioning a very interesting study
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Želio sam završiti navodeći vrlo zanimljivu studiju
13:53
which came out earlier this year from some researchers at Stanford and Caltech.
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koju su ranije ove godine objavili istraživači na Stanfordu i Caltechu.
13:57
And they gave subjects the same wine,
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Dali su ispitanicima isto vino,
14:01
labeled with different price tags.
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označili ga različitim cijenama.
14:03
A lot of people, you know,
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Mnogi su, znate,
14:05
said that they liked the more expensive wine more --
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rekli da im se više sviđa skuplje vino --
14:08
it was the same wine, but they thought it was a different one
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bilo je to isto vino, ali su mislili da je bilo drugačije
14:10
that was more expensive.
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ono koje je bilo skuplje.
14:12
But what was unexpected was that these researchers did
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Ali neočekivana stvar je bila da su istraživači obavljali
14:14
MRI brain imaging while the people were drinking the wine,
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MRI slikanje mozga dok su ispitanici pili vino,
14:17
and not only did they say they enjoyed the more expensively labeled wine more --
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i ne samo da su rekli da su više uživali u vinu s višom cijenom,
14:21
their brain actually registered as experiencing more pleasure
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već je i njihov mozak registrirao više zadovoljstva
14:25
from the same wine when it was labeled with a higher price tag.
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od istog vina kad je bilo označeno kao skuplje.
14:28
Thank you.
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Hvala vam.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Benjamin Wallace - AuthorBenjamin Wallace is a journalist and author of The Billionaire's Vinegar, the true story of the world's most expensive bottle of (possibly phony?) wine. He's been a contributor to GQ, Details, Salon and The Washington Post.
Why you should listen
A Washington D.C. native and a current Brooklynite, Benjamin Wallace is fast establishing himself a master of the brainy nonfiction thriller, rooting up feuds and controversies in pop and less-than-pop culture while buddying up with their embattled and larger-than-life personalities (whom he sometimes meets on their way down). He profiled conserative mouthpiece Glenn Beck for GQ in 2007 shortly after the pundit landed a controversial slot on CNN, and in 2002 looked at chef Georges Perrier of Philidelphia's then-five-star restaurant, Le Bec-Fin.
Wallace's orderly, deadpan writing style hints at one of his secrets: his love (and talent) for playing the straight man to the once-mighty in downfall, right as they go aflame in tragicomic hubris. (The Billionaire's Vinegar is simply a pleasure, not least to schadenfreude junkies.) It's easy to imagine him, the bespectacled wallflower, watching as brouhaha over a wine bottle once valued at $165,000 -- the highest price fetched for a bottle, ever -- culimates in a court trial that reveals at least two of its main characters, a wine collector and a wine expert, to be frauds. Or at least emperors with no clothes.
Benjamin Wallace | Speaker | TED.com