TED2015

Chris Burkard: The joy of surfing in ice-cold water

クリス・バーカード: 凍て付く海でサーフィンをする喜び

Filmed:

追いかける価値があるものにはほんの少しだけ苦しみが必要だ、とサーフィン写真家のクリス・バーカードは言います。そして、極寒かつ僻地の海で撮影された驚くべき写真と共に、平凡への革命について語ります。

- Surf photographer
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio

So if I told you that
this was the face of pure joy,
もし私が この写真は
喜んでいる顔だと言ったら
00:13
would you call me crazy?
クレイジーだと感じるかもしれません
00:18
I wouldn't blame you,
でも怒ったりしません
00:22
because every time I look at this
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
この北極での自撮り写真を見ると
いつも寒気がします
00:23
I want to tell you
a little bit about this photograph.
今日はこの写真について
お話しします
00:28
I was swimming around
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
ノルウェーのロフォーテン諸島周辺で
泳いでおり
00:31
just inside the Arctic Circle,
北極圏の内側にありますが
00:35
and the water was hovering
right at freezing.
水は凍結寸前です
00:37
The air? A brisk -10 with windchill,
空気は冷たく マイナス10度
00:40
and I could literally feel the blood
trying to leave my hands,
そして文字通り手・脚・顔から
血の気が引いていくのを感じます
00:43
feet and face, and rush
to protect my vital organs.
重要な臓器を守るためです
00:47
It was the coldest I've ever been.
経験した中で最低の気温です
00:52
But even with swollen lips, sunken eyes,
and cheeks flushed red,
唇は腫れて 目はくぼみ
頬は赤くなりましたが
00:54
I have found that this place right here
is somewhere I can find great joy.
ここは とても楽しい所だと気付いたのです
00:59
Now, when it comes to pain,
psychologist Brock Bastian
ところで 痛みに関して
心理学者のブロック・バスティアンは
01:06
probably said it best when he wrote,
最も適切な表現をしたと思います
01:09
"Pain is a kind of shortcut
to mindfulness.
「痛みとは集中力への近道である
01:11
It makes us suddenly aware
of everything in the environment.
周りにある全ての物を気付かせてくれる
01:14
It brutally draws us in
容赦なく
01:18
to a virtual sensory awareness
of the world much like meditation."
瞑想のような世界の気付きへと導いてくれる」
01:20
If shivering is a form of meditation,
then I would consider myself a monk.
身震いが瞑想の形だとすれば
私は修道士と言えるでしょう
01:24
(Laughter)
(笑)
01:28
Now, before we get into the why
身も凍る海でサーフィンをしたい
と何故 誰も思わなかったのか
01:29
would anyone ever want to surf
in freezing cold water?
という話の前に
01:32
I would love to give you
a little perspective
映像をお見せしたいと思います
01:35
on what a day in my life can look like.
私の一日です
01:38
(Music)
(音楽)
01:41
(Video) Man: I mean, I know
we were hoping for good waves,
良い波を探しているけど
02:27
but I don't think anybody thought
that was going to happen.
予測不能だと思う
02:31
I can't stop shaking.
震えが止まらない
02:34
I am so cold.
とても寒い
02:35
(Music)
(音楽)
02:40
(Applause)
(拍手)
02:43
Chris Burkard: So,
surf photographer, right?
サーフィンの写真家です
02:47
I don't even know
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
果たして そんな肩書きがあるのか
分かりません
02:51
My parents definitely didn't think so
両親は認めてくれませんでした
02:54
when I told them at 19 I was quitting
my job to pursue this dream career:
19才のとき この夢の仕事をする為
仕事を辞めるんだと言った時です
02:56
blue skies, warm tropical beaches,
and a tan that lasts all year long.
青い空 温暖なトロピカルビーチ
そして一年中残る日焼け
03:01
I mean, to me, this was it.
Life could not get any better.
これ以上は望めない無い生活です
03:06
Sweating it out, shooting surfers
in these exotic tourist destinations.
魅力的な観光地の誘惑に負けず
サーファーを撮影するのです
03:09
But there was just this one problem.
でも一つだけ問題があります
03:14
You see, the more time I spent traveling
to these exotic locations,
魅力的な土地を旅する程に
03:16
the less gratifying it seemed to be.
満足感は減っていくのです
03:19
I set out seeking adventure,
and what I was finding was only routine.
冒険を探し始めても
辿り着くのはありふれた場所で
03:22
It was things like wi-fi, TV, fine dining,
and a constant cellular connection
それは Wi-Fi ・テレビ・高級料理や
いつでも繋がる携帯電話がある
03:27
that to me were all the trappings
of places heavily touristed
有名な観光地の証でした
03:32
in and out of the water,
水の中も外もです
03:35
and it didn't take long
for me to start feeling suffocated.
そしてすぐに息苦しくなりました
03:37
I began craving wild, open spaces,
そしてより広大な自然を求めはじめ
03:42
and so I set out to find the places
others had written off
誰も記していない場所を探し始めました
03:47
as too cold, too remote,
and too dangerous to surf,
とても寒く とても辺ぴで
サーフィンには危険すぎる
03:50
and that challenge intrigued me.
このチャレンジにそそられました
03:54
I began this sort of personal crusade
against the mundane,
平凡への革命という挑戦を始めたのです
03:57
because if there's
one thing I've realized,
一つ気付いたことがあります
04:01
it's that any career,
どんな職業でも言えることかもしれません
04:03
even one as seemingly glamorous
as surf photography,
サーフィンの写真家は一見華やかに見えますが
04:05
has the danger of becoming monotonous.
単調になる危険があります
04:09
So in my search to break up
this monotony, I realized something:
この退屈さを壊す方法を
探しながら気付いたのは
04:12
There's only about a third
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
暖い海は地球上の海の
3分の1しかありません
04:15
and it's really just that thin band
around the equator.
赤道周囲の狭い海域だけです
04:18
So if I was going to find perfect waves,
完璧な波を探しに行こうと思えば
04:21
it was probably going
to happen somewhere cold,
寒いところに行くことにもなるでしょう
04:23
where the seas are notoriously rough,
海は最悪に荒れているかもしれません
04:26
and that's exactly where I began to look.
そしてそれは事実であると判りました
04:28
And it was my first trip to Iceland
初めて行った アイスランドで
04:31
that I felt like I found
exactly what I was looking for.
求めていたものを見付けたと感じました
04:33
I was blown away
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
自然の美しい風景に圧倒されました
04:36
but most importantly, I couldn't believe
we were finding perfect waves
しかし重要なのは
こんな辺境の地で
04:39
in such a remote and rugged
part of the world.
完璧な波を見つけられると思わなかったことです
04:44
At one point, we got to the beach
そして浜に到着すると
04:47
only to find massive chunks of ice
had piled on the shoreline.
海岸線にはびっくりする程
大量の氷がありました
04:49
They created this barrier
between us and the surf,
サーフィンへの障壁です
04:52
and we had to weave
through this thing like a maze
迷路のような氷をぬって行くのです
04:55
just to get out into the lineup.
波打ち際まで出て
04:57
and once we got there,
海に入ると
04:59
we were pushing aside these ice chunks
trying to get into waves.
波に乗るために氷を押し退けて進むのです
05:00
It was an incredible experience,
one I'll never forget,
とてつもない経験です
一生忘れられないでしょう
05:03
because amidst those harsh conditions,
このような厳しい環境下で
05:07
I felt like I stumbled onto
one of the last quiet places,
「最後の静寂な所」に
偶然辿り着いたと感じました
05:10
somewhere that I found a clarity
and a connection with the world
頭脳が鮮明になり世界と繋がりを感じます
05:14
I knew I would never find
on a crowded beach.
混雑した海では得られません
05:17
I was hooked. I was hooked. (Laughter)
もう病み付きです
(笑)
05:21
Cold water was constantly on my mind,
絶えず冷たい水が意識にあります
05:25
and from that point on,
それからというもの
05:27
my career focused on these types of harsh
and unforgiving environments,
このような厳しい環境に焦点を合わせていて
05:29
and it took me to places like Russia,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
ロシア・ノルウェー・アラスカ
アイスランド・チリ
05:32
the Faroe Islands,
and a lot of places in between.
フェロー諸島などに行きました
05:36
And one of my favorite things
about these places
これらの土地で好きなところは
05:39
was simply the challenge and
the creativity it took just to get there:
単に挑戦であること
そして辿り着くまでの創造性です
05:42
hours, days, weeks spent on Google Earth
Google Earth で何日も何週間も
05:46
trying to pinpoint any remote stretch
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
辿り着けそうな 辺境の
岩礁や浜を探索します
05:48
And once we got there,
the vehicles were just as creative:
そして目的地に辿り着けば
乗り物まで創造的です
05:53
snowmobiles, six-wheel
Soviet troop carriers,
スノーモービルや
6輪のソビエト製装甲車
05:56
and a couple of super-sketchy
helicopter flights.
そして 超不安なヘリコプター
05:59
(Laughter)
(笑)
06:02
Helicopters really scare me, by the way.
ヘリコプターは本当に恐怖でした
06:05
There was this one particularly
bumpy boat ride
ここではボートに乗って
激流を登りました
06:08
up the coast of Vancouver Island
to this kind of remote surf spot,
バンクーバー島の
人里離れたサーフ場では
06:10
where we ended up watching
helplessly from the water
どうすることもできず
見守ることしかできません
06:13
as bears ravaged our camp site.
熊がテントを破壊するところをです
06:16
They walked off with our food
and bits of our tent,
熊は食料とテントの一部を持って行きました
06:18
clearly letting us know that we
were at the bottom of the food chain
食物連鎖の最下層にいることを
思い知らされました
06:22
and that this was their spot, not ours.
彼等の場所で我々のものではないのです
06:25
But to me, that trip
でも この旅は
06:27
was a testament to the wildness
I traded for those touristy beaches.
賑やかなビーチと引き換えに得た
野生の証しと言えます
06:29
Now, it wasn't until I traveled
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
これはノルウェーに行ったときの写真です
06:35
that I really learned
to appreciate the cold.
寒いということを本当に理解しました
06:39
So this is the place
そう ここは
06:44
where some of the largest,
the most violent storms in the world
世界で最も強烈な嵐が発生し
06:46
send huge waves smashing
into the coastline.
海岸線に巨大な波が押し寄せる場所です
06:49
We were in this tiny, remote fjord,
just inside the Arctic Circle.
北極圏にある僻地のフィヨルドにいます
06:52
It had a greater population
of sheep than people,
人間より羊の個体数が断然多く
06:56
so help if we needed it
was nowhere to be found.
助けを求めたくても呼べません
06:58
I was in the water
taking pictures of surfers,
サーファーの写真を撮る為に
海中にいたところ
07:02
and it started to snow.
雪が降り始めました
07:04
And then the temperature began to drop.
そして気温が下り始めたのです
07:08
And I told myself, there's not a chance
you're getting out of the water.
地上に上がるべきではない
と言い聞かせました
07:12
You traveled all this way, and this is
exactly what you've been waiting for:
わざわざ旅をして
待ちに待った状況だろう
07:15
freezing cold conditions
with perfect waves.
凍て付く状況と完璧な波だ
07:19
And although I couldn't even feel
my finger to push the trigger,
シャッターを切る指は
感覚がなくなっていましたが
07:21
I knew I wasn't getting out.
出ないと決めたのです
07:24
So I just did whatever I could.
I shook it off, whatever.
指を動かしたり
できることはやりました
07:25
But that was the point that I felt
気付いたときには
07:28
this wind gush through
the valley and hit me,
谷から吹き荒れる風に打たれ
07:30
and what started as this light snowfall
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
小降りだった雪は吹雪に変りました
07:32
and I started to lose
perception of where I was.
そして視界はなくなりました
07:37
I didn't know if I was drifting
out to sea or towards shore,
沖に流されているのか岸に向かっているのか
さっぱりわかりませんでした
07:42
and all I could really make out
was the faint sound of seagulls
かすかに聞こえるカモメの声と
07:45
and crashing waves.
押し寄せる波で何とかなりました
07:49
Now, I knew this place had a reputation
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
ここは船が沈没したり
飛行機が墜落する有名な場所です
07:52
and while I was out there floating,
I started to get a little bit nervous.
漂っている間は少し不安にもなりましたが
07:57
Actually, I was totally freaking out --
実際びびってました
08:02
(Laughter) -- and I was
borderline hypothermic,
(笑)
そして低体温症の直前で
08:04
and my friends eventually
had to help me out of the water.
友人に助け出してもらいました
08:08
And I don't know if it was
delirium setting in or what,
精神錯乱状態になっていたのかもしれません
08:11
but they told me later
後になって教えてもらったのですが
08:14
I had a smile on my face the entire time.
ずっと笑っていたようです
08:16
Now, it was this trip
これが私の旅です
08:22
and probably that exact experience
where I really began to feel
まさにこの経験を通して感じたことは
08:24
like every photograph was precious,
貴重な写真は全て
08:28
because all of a sudden in that moment,
it was something I was forced to earn.
その瞬間に追い込まれたからこそ
得られたものだからです
08:32
And I realized, all this shivering
had actually taught me something:
そしてこの身震いする寒さは
人生において
08:37
In life, there are no shortcuts to joy.
喜びは近道しては得られない
ことを教えてくれました
08:42
Anything that is worth pursuing
is going to require us to suffer
追いかける価値があるものは
苦しみを必要とするかもしれない
08:46
just a little bit,
少しだけです
08:50
and that tiny bit of suffering
that I did for my photography,
ほんの少しの苦しみが
この写真にあります
08:52
it added a value to my work
that was so much more meaningful to me
苦しみは私の仕事に価値を与え
より意味のあるものになります
08:56
than just trying to fill
the pages of magazines.
雑誌のページを埋めることよりもです
08:59
See, I gave a piece of myself
in these places,
厳しい環境に自分の身を置いて
09:03
and what I walked away with
ずっと探していた
09:10
was a sense of fulfillment
I had always been searching for.
充足感の様な物を持ち帰れるのです
09:12
So I look back at this photograph.
この写真を見返すと
09:18
It's easy to see frozen fingers
and cold wetsuits
凍り付いた指と冷いウエットスーツを
思い出します
09:21
and even the struggle
that it took just to get there,
そこに辿り着くまでの
苦労さえ思い出します
09:25
but most of all,
what I see is just joy.
でも何よりも感じるのは
喜びです
09:28
Thank you so much.
ありがとうございました
09:33
(Applause)
(拍手)
09:35
Translated by Takafusa Kitazume
Reviewed by Mari Arimitsu

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About the Speaker:

Chris Burkard - Surf photographer
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head.

Why you should listen

For most people, surfing evokes sunny sand and warm, blue water in tropical locales. In his book Distant Shores, self-taught photographer Chris Burkard detours to the coastlines of Norway, Iceland and Alaska, shooting surfers as they ride waves on icy beaches that have rarely been photographed -- let alone surfed.

Traveling to often dangerous extremes to discover unknown landscapes, Burkard composes images that transcend the simple action shots of action photography, placing nature at the center of his compositions.

More profile about the speaker
Chris Burkard | Speaker | TED.com