TEDMED 2009
Ken Kamler: Medical miracle on Everest
Ken Kamler: Medicínsky zázrak na Evereste
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V čase keď sa udiala najhoršia katastrofa v histórií lezenia na Mount Everest, bol Ken Kamler jediným doktorom na hore. Na TEDMED sa delí o neuveriteľný príbeh o boji horolezca proti extrémnym podmienkam a využíva technológiu zobrazovania mozgu na zmapovanie zdravotníckeho zázraku muža, ktorý prežil približne 36 hodín pochovaný v snehu.
Ken Kamler - Adventure physician
Ken Kamler has served as doctor on some of the world’s most daring expeditions, but also performs delicate microsurgery when at home in New York. Full bio
Ken Kamler has served as doctor on some of the world’s most daring expeditions, but also performs delicate microsurgery when at home in New York. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
OK. We've heard a lot of people
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Okey. Počuli sme veľa ľudí
00:18
speak at this conference
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hovoriť na tejto konferencií
00:20
about the power of the human mind.
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o sile ľudskej mysle.
00:23
And what I'd like to do today
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A ja by som dnes chcel spraviť to,
00:25
is give you a vivid example
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že vám ukážem živý príklad toho,
00:27
of how that power can be unleashed
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ako možno túto silu uvolniť v prípade
00:29
when someone is in a survival situation,
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keď sa niekto nachádza na pokraji prežitia,
00:32
how the will to survive can bring that out in people.
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ako môže vôľa prežiť, vzbudiť túto silu v človeku.
00:36
This is an incident which occurred on Mount Everest;
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Toto je udalosť, ktorá sa odohral na Mt. Evereste.
00:39
it was the worst disaster in the history of Everest.
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Bola to najhoršia katastrofa v histórií Everestu.
00:43
And when it occurred, I was the only doctor on the mountain.
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A keď sa to stalo, bol som jediný lekár na tej hore.
00:46
So I'll take you through that
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Prevediem vás teda tým príbehom
00:48
and we'll see what it's like
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a uvidíme, aké to je,
00:51
when someone really
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keď niekto naozaj
00:53
summons the will to survive.
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vzbudí v sebe vôľu prežiť.
00:55
OK, this is Mount Everest.
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Okey. Toto je Mt. Everest.
00:57
It's 29,035 feet high.
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Je 8 850 metrov vysoký.
00:59
I've been there six times: Four times I did work with National Geographic,
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Bol som tam šesťkrát, štyrikrár som pracoval s National Geographic,
01:02
making tectonic plate measurements;
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na meraní tektonických platní.
01:04
twice, I went with NASA
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Dvakrát som išiel s NASA
01:06
doing remote sensing devices.
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a pracoval s diaľkovými snímacími zariadeniami.
01:09
It was on my fourth trip to Everest
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Bolo to počas mojej štvrtej cesty na Everest
01:11
that a comet passed over the mountain. Hyakutake.
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keď ponad horou preletela kométa. Hyakutake.
01:14
And the Sherpas told us then
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Vtedy nám Sherpovia povedali,
01:16
that was a very bad omen,
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že je to veľmi zlé znamenie
01:18
and we should have listened to them.
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a mali by sme mu načúvať.
01:20
Everest is an extreme environment.
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Everest je extrémne prostredie.
01:23
There's only one-third as much oxygen at the summit as there is at sea level.
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Na vrchole je iba tretinové množstvo kyslíku v porovnaní s úrovňou hladiny mora.
01:26
Near the summit, temperatures
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Blízko vrcholu môže byť teplota
01:28
can be 40 degrees below zero.
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40 stupňov pod nulou.
01:30
You can have winds 20 to 40 miles an hour.
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Vietor môže mať rýchlosť 30 až 60 kilometrov za hodinu.
01:32
It's actually a wind-chill factor
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Pocitová teplota je v takom prípade
01:34
which is lower than a summer day on Mars.
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nižšia ako počas letného dňa na Marse.
01:38
I remember one time being up near the summit,
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Spomínam si na jeden prípad, keď som bol blízko vrchola.
01:40
I reached into my down jacket
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Načiahol som sa do mojej spodnej bundy,
01:42
for a drink from my water bottle,
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aby som sa napil z flaše na vodu,
01:44
inside my down jacket,
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vo vnútri mojej spodnej bundy,
01:46
only to discover that the water was already frozen solid.
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no zistil som len to, že voda bola už zamrznutá na kameň.
01:49
That gives you an idea of just how severe
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To vám dáva predstavu o tom, aké nemilosrdné
01:51
things are near the summit.
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podmienky sú v blízkosti vrcholu.
01:55
OK, this is the route up Everest.
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Okey. Toto je cesta hore Everestom.
01:57
It starts at base camp, at 17,500 feet.
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Začína v základnom tábore, vo výške 5334 metrov.
02:01
Camp One, 2,000 feet higher.
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Tábor jedna, o 600 metrov vyššie.
02:04
Camp Two, another 2,000 feet higher up,
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Tábor dva, ďaľších 600 výškových metrov,
02:06
what's called the Western Cwm.
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ktorý sa nazýva Západný ľadovcový kar.
02:08
CampThree is at the base of Lhotse,
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Tábor tri je na úrovni Lhotse,
02:10
which is the fourth highest mountain in the world, but it's dwarfed by Everest.
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čo je štvrtá najvyššia hora na svete, no i tak je zatienená Everestom.
02:13
And then Camp Four is the highest camp;
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A tábor štyri, ktorý je najvýšši z táborov.
02:16
that's 3,000 feet short of the summit.
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Ten je ale stále ešte vzdialený 900 metrov od vrcholu.
02:20
This is a view of base camp.
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Toto je pohľad na základný tábor.
02:22
This is pitched on a glacier at 17,500 feet.
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Je postavený na ľadovci vo výške viac ako 5000 metrov nad morom.
02:25
It's the highest point you can bring your yaks
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Je to najvyššie miesto kam môžete doviesť svojich yakov
02:27
before you have to unload.
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pred tým, ako z nich zložíte náklad.
02:29
And this is what they unloaded for me:
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A toto zložili pre mňa.
02:31
I had four yak loads of medical supplies,
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Mal som štyroch yakov naložených lekárskymi zásobami,
02:33
which are dumped in a tent,
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ktoré sú uložené v stane.
02:35
and here I am trying to arrange things.
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A tu sa snažím usporiadať si veci.
02:38
This was our expedition.
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Toto bola naša expedícia.
02:40
It was a National Geographic expedition,
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Bola to výprava National Geographic,
02:42
but it was organized by The Explorers Club.
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ale bola organizovaná Explorers klubom.
02:44
There were three other expeditions on the mountain,
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Na hore boli vtedy ďaľšie tri expedície,
02:46
an American team, a New Zealand team
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Americký tým, tým z Nového Zélandu
02:48
and an IMAX team.
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a IMAX tím.
02:52
And, after actually two months of preparation,
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Po dvoch mesiacoch príprav,
02:55
we built our camps all the way up the mountain.
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sme postavili naše tábory po celej ceste hore.
02:58
This is a view looking up the icefall,
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Toto je pohľad na ľadopád zdola.
03:00
the first 2,000 feet of the climb
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Prvých 600 metrov lezenia
03:02
up from base camp.
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zo základného tábora.
03:05
And here's a picture in the icefall;
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A tu je fotka v ľadopáde.
03:07
it's a waterfall, but it's frozen, but it moves very slowly,
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Je to vodopád, ale zamrznutý, no veľmi pomaly sa hýbe
03:10
and it actually changes every day.
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a vlastne sa mení každý deň.
03:12
When you're in it, you're like a rat in a maze;
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Keď ste v ňom, ste ako myš v labyrinte:
03:14
you can't even see over the top.
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ani len nevidíte cez vrch.
03:17
This is near the top of the icefall.
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Toto je neďaľeko vrchu ľadopádu.
03:19
You want to climb through at night when the ice is frozen.
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Chcete ním preliezť počas noci, keď je ľad zmrznutý.
03:22
That way, it's less likely to tumble down on you.
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Vtedy je menej pravdepodovné, že sa na vás zosype.
03:24
These are some climbers reaching the top of the icefall just at sun-up.
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Tu sú niektorí lezci, ktorí dosahujú vrchol ľadopádu práve pri východe slnka.
03:30
This is me crossing a crevasse.
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Toto som ja ako prechádzam trhlinu.
03:32
We cross on aluminum ladders with safety ropes attached.
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Prechádzame na hliníkových rebríkoch s pripevnenými bezpečnostnými lanami.
03:37
That's another crevasse.
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To je ďaľšia trhlina.
03:39
Some of these things are 10 stories deep or more,
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Niektoré z týchto vecí sú hlboké aj 10 poschodí alebo viac
03:41
and one of my climbing friends says that
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a jeden z mojich spolulezcov vraví,
03:43
the reason we actually climb at night
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že dôvod prečo lezieme v noci
03:45
is because if we ever saw the bottom
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je ten, že ak by sme videli spodok
03:47
of what we're climbing over,
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toho, ponad čo lezieme,
03:49
we would never do it.
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nikdy by sme to nerobili.
03:52
Okay. This is Camp One.
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Okey. Toto je tábor jedna.
03:54
It's the first flat spot you can reach
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Je to prvé rovné miesto, ktoré môžete dosiahnuť
03:56
after you get up to the top of the icefall.
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po tom, ako výjdete na vrch ľadopádu.
03:59
And from there we climb up to Camp Two,
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A odtiaľ lezieme do tábora dva,
04:02
which is sort of the foreground.
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ktorý je vlastne určitým výstupkom.
04:04
These are climbers moving up the Lhotse face,
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Toto sú horolezci zdolávajúci stenu Lhotse,
04:06
that mountain toward Camp Three.
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hory smerom k táboru tri.
04:08
They're on fixed ropes here.
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Sú na upevnených lanách.
04:10
A fall here, if you weren't roped in,
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Pád na tomto mieste, ak by ste neboli naviazaný,
04:12
would be 5,000 feet down.
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by bol dlhý 1500 metrov smerom dole.
04:16
This is a view taken from camp three.
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Toto je pohľad z tábora tri.
04:18
You can see the Lhotse face is in profile,
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Stenu Lhotse môžete vidieť z profilu.
04:20
it's about a 45 degree angle. It takes two days to climb it,
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Má sklon približne 45 stupňv. Trvá dva dni vyliezť ju.
04:23
so you put the camp halfway through.
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Takže tábor umiestnite v polovičke cesty.
04:25
If you notice, the summit of Everest is black.
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Ak ste si všimli, tak vrchol Everestu je čierny.
04:27
There's no ice over it.
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Nie je na ňom žiaden ľad.
04:29
And that's because Everest is so high,
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To je spôsobené tým, že Everest je tak vysoko,
04:31
it's in the jet stream,
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že je v tryskovom prúdení
04:33
and winds are constantly scouring the face,
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a vetry neustále obrusujú stenu,
04:35
so no snow gets to accumulate.
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takže žiaden sneh nemá šancu sa tam nahromadiť.
04:37
What looks like a cloud behind the summit ridge
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To čo vyzerá ako oblak za okrajom vrchola
04:39
is actually snow being blown off the summit.
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je v skutorčnosti sneh odfukovaný z vrchu.
04:45
This is on the way up from Camp Three to Camp Four,
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Toto je na ceste z tábora tri do tábora štyri,
04:47
moving in, up through the clouds.
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pohybujúc sa cez oblaky.
04:52
And this is at Camp Four.
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A toto je tábor štyri.
04:54
Once you get to Camp Four, you have maybe 24 hours
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V momente ako sa dostanete do táboru štyri, máte možno tak 24 hodín,
04:57
to decide if you're going to go for the summit or not.
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aby ste sa rozhodli či idete na vrchol, alebo nie.
04:59
Everybody's on oxygen, your supplies are limited,
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Každý je na kyslíku. Vaše zásoby sú obmedzené
05:02
and you either have to go up or go down,
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a buď musíte ísť hore, alebo dole,
05:04
make that decision very quickly.
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rozhodnutie treba spraviť veľmi rýchlo.
05:07
This is a picture of Rob Hall.
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Tu je na fotke Rob Hall.
05:09
He was the leader of the New Zealand team.
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Bol vodcom tímu z Nového Zélandu
05:11
This is a radio he used later to call his wife
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Toto je rádio, ktoré použil neskôr, aby zavolal svojej žene,
05:13
that I'll tell you about.
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o čom vám porozprávam.
05:17
These are some climbers waiting to go to the summit.
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Toto sú nejakí lezci, ktorí čakajú na výstup k vrcholu.
05:19
They're up at Camp Four, and you can see that there's wind blowing off the summit.
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Sú hore v tábore štyri a môžete vidieť ako vietor fučí z vrcholu.
05:22
This is not good weather to climb in,
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Toto nie je dobré počasie na výstup,
05:24
so the climbers are just waiting, hoping that the wind's going to die down.
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takže horolezci iba čakajú a dúfajú že vietor utíchne.
05:29
And, in fact, the wind does die down at night.
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A skutočne vietor tú noc ustal.
05:31
It becomes very calm, there's no wind at all.
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Veľmi sa upokojil. Úplne prestalo fúkať.
05:33
This looks like a good chance to go for the summit.
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Vyzerá to na veľmi dobrú šancu na výstup.
05:36
So here are some climbers starting out for the summit
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Takže tu sú nejakí lezci začínajúci výstup k vrcholu
05:38
on what's called the Triangular Face.
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na niečom, čo sa volá triangulárna stena.
05:40
It's the first part of climb.
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Je to prvá časť výstupu.
05:42
It's done in the dark, because it's actually less steep than what comes next,
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Zdoláva sa za tmy, nakoľko je menej strmý ako to, čo nasleduje
05:44
and you can gain daylight hours if you do this in the dark.
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a môžte získať pár hodín svetla ak túto časť zdoláte potme.
05:48
So that's what happened.
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Takže prihodilo sa toto.
05:50
The climbers got on the southeast ridge.
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Lezci sa dostali na juhovýchodný hrebeň.
05:52
This is the view looking at the southeast ridge.
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Tento obrázok je pohľad na juhovýchodný hrebeň.
05:54
The summit would be in the foreground.
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Vrchol by sa nachádzal v popredí.
05:56
From here, it's about 1,500 feet
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Z tohto miesto to je na vrchol okolo 500 metrov
05:59
up at a 30-degree angle to the summit.
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v 30 stupňovom stúpaní.
06:04
But what happened that year was
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No ten rok sa stalo to,
06:06
the wind suddenly and unexpectedly picked up.
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že sa náhle a neočakávane zdvihol vietor.
06:08
A storm blew in that no one was anticipating.
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Prihnala sa búrka ktorú nikto nepredvídal.
06:11
You can see here some ferocious winds
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Môžete tu vidieť zúrivý vietor
06:13
blowing snow way high off the summit.
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odvievajúci sneh z vrcholu.
06:16
And there were climbers on that summit ridge.
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A na hrebeni vrcholu boli lezci.
06:20
This is a picture of me in that area
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Toto je fotka mňa v tej oblasti
06:22
taken a year before,
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urobená rok predtým
06:24
and you can see I've got an oxygen mask on
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a vidíte že mám nasadenú kyslíkovú masku
06:27
with a rebreather.
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s rebreatherom.
06:29
I have an oxygen hose connected here.
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Kyslíkovú hadicu mám pripojenú tu.
06:31
You can see on this climber, we have two oxygen tanks in the backpack --
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Na tomto lezcovi môžeťe vidieť, že máme dve kyslíkové bomby v batohu,
06:34
little titanium tanks, very lightweight --
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malé titániové bomby, ktoré sú veľmi ľahké.
06:36
and we're not carrying much else.
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Nenesieme toho o moc viac.
06:38
This is all you've got. You're very exposed on the summit ridge.
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Toto je všetko čo máte. Na hrebeni ste vystavení napospas živlom.
06:41
OK, this is a view taken on the summit ridge itself.
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Okey. Toto je obrázok odfotený na samotnom vrcholovom hrebeni.
06:44
This is on the way toward the summit,
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Tento je z cesty k vrcholu,
06:46
on that 1,500-foot bridge.
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na tom 500 metrovom mostíku.
06:49
All the climbers here are climbing unroped,
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Všetci lezci lezú v tomto mieste neistení
06:51
and the reason is because
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z toho dôvodu,
06:53
the drop off is so sheer on either side
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že sklon na obe strany je tak strmý,
06:55
that if you were roped to somebody,
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že ak by ste boli k niekomu priviazaní,
06:57
you'd wind up just pulling them off with you.
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a spadli by ste, stiahli by ste ich všetkých so sebou.
06:59
So each person climbs individually.
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Takže každý lezie samostatne.
07:01
And it's not a straight path at all,
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Nie je to zdaleká rovná cesta.
07:04
it's very difficult climbing,
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Je veľmi náročná na lezenie
07:07
and there's always the risk
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a vždy je tam riziko,
07:09
of falling on either side.
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pádu na jednu, alebo druhú stranu.
07:11
If you fall to your left, you're going to fall
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Ak padnete doľava, budete padať
07:13
8,000 feet into Nepal;
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2 500 metrov do Nepálu.
07:15
if you fall to your right,
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Ak padnete doprava,
07:17
you're going to fall 12,000 feet into Tibet.
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budete padať 3 500 metrov do Tibetu.
07:20
So it's probably better to fall into Tibet
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Takže je pravdepodobne lepšie spadnúť do Tibetu
07:22
because you'll live longer.
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lebo budete žiť dlhšie.
07:24
(Laughter)
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(Smiech)
07:29
But, either way, you fall for the rest of your life.
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Tak či tak, budete padať po celý zvyšok svojho života.
07:33
OK. Those climbers were up near the summit,
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Okey. Títo lezci boli nedaľeko vcholu,
07:35
along that summit ridge that you see up there,
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pozdĺž vrcholového hrebeňa ktorý vidíte tu hore
07:39
and I was down here in Camp Three.
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a ja som bol tu dole v tábore tri.
07:41
My expedition was down in Camp Three,
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Moja expedícia bola dole v tábore tri,
07:44
while these guys were up there in the storm.
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zatiaľ čo títo chlapi boli tam hore v búrke.
07:46
The storm was so fierce that we had to lay,
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Búrka bola taká silná že sme museli ležať.
07:49
fully dressed, fully equipped,
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Kompletne oblečení, plne vybavení
07:51
laid out on the tent floor
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ležať na podlahe stanu
07:53
to stop the tent from blowing off the mountain.
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aby sme zabránili tomu že ho vietor sfúkne z hory.
07:55
It was the worst winds I've ever seen.
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Bol to najhorší vietor aký som kedy videl.
07:57
And the climbers up on the ridge
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A lezci hore na hrebeni
08:00
were that much higher, 2,000 feet higher,
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boli omnoho vyššie, o 600 metrov vyššie
08:02
and completely exposed to the elements.
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a boli úplne vystavení živlom.
08:06
We were in radio contact with some of them.
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Boli sme v rádiovom kontakte s niektorými z nich.
08:08
This is a view taken along the summit ridge.
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Toto je obrázok odfotený pozdĺž vrcholového hrebeňa.
08:11
Rob Hall, we heard by radio,
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Rob Hall, počuli sme ho cez rádio,
08:13
was up here, at this point in the storm
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bol tam hore, na tomto mieste v búrke
08:16
with Doug Hansen.
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spolu s Dougom Hansenom.
08:18
And we heard that Rob was OK,
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A počuli sme, že Rob bol okey,
08:20
but Doug was too weak to come down.
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ale Doug bol príliš slabý na to aby zišiel dole.
08:22
He was exhausted, and Rob was staying with him.
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Bol vyčerpaný a Rob zostával s ním.
08:26
We also got some bad news in the storm
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V búrke sme dostali aj ďalšie zlé správy,
08:28
that Beck Weathers, another climber,
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že Beck Weathers, ďaľší lezec,
08:31
had collapsed in the snow and was dead.
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skoboval v snehu a že je mŕtvy.
08:34
There were still 18 other climbers
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Stále zostávalo 18 lezcov,
08:36
that we weren't aware of their condition.
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o stave ktorých sme nemali správy.
08:40
They were lost. There was total confusion on the mountain;
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Boli stratení. Na hore vládol totálny zmätok.
08:44
all the stories were confusing, most of them were conflicting.
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Všetky správy boli mätúce. Väčšina z nich si protirečila.
08:47
We really had no idea what was going on during that storm.
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Skutočne sme nemali poňatia čo sa dialo počas tej búrky.
08:50
We were just hunkered down
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Len sme sa chúlili
08:52
in our tents at Camp Three.
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v našich stanoch v tábore tri.
08:54
Our two strongest climbers, Todd Burleson and Pete Athans,
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Naši dvaja najlepší lezci, Todd Burleson a Pete Athans,
08:57
decided to go up to try to rescue who they could
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sa rozhodli, že pôjdu hore a pokúsia sa zachrániť koho budú môcť
09:00
even though there was a ferocious storm going.
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napriek tomu, že vonku bola zúrivá búrka.
09:03
They tried to radio a message to Rob Hall,
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Pokúšali sa rádiom odoslať správu Robovi Hallovi,
09:06
who was a superb climber
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ktorý bol špičkový lezec
09:09
stuck, sort of, with a weak climber
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uviaznutý, viac menej, so slabým lezcom
09:11
up near the summit.
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hore nedaleko vrchola.
09:13
I expected them to say to Rob,
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Očakával som od nich, že Robovi povedia
09:15
"Hold on. We're coming."
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"Vydrž. Ideme na pomoc."
09:18
But in fact, what they said was,
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V skutočnosti však povedali:
09:21
"Leave Doug and come down yourself.
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"Nechaj tak Douga a sám zíď dole.
09:23
There's no chance of saving him,
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Nie je žiadna šanca na jeho záchranu,
09:25
and just try to save yourself at this point."
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a tak sa pokús v tomto momente zachrániť aspoň seba."
09:29
And Rob got that message,
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A Rob dostal tú správu,
09:31
but his answer was,
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ale jeho odpoveď bola
09:34
"We're both listening."
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"Obidvaja počúvame."
09:40
Todd and Pete got up to the summit ridge, up in here,
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Todd a Pete vyliezli k vrcholovému hrebeňu, tu hore
09:43
and it was a scene of complete chaos up there.
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a bol to výjav úplného chaosu tam hore.
09:47
But they did what they could to stabilize the people.
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Ale spravili čo mohli, aby stabilizovali ľudí.
09:50
I gave them radio advice from Camp Three,
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Ja som im dával rady rádiom z tábora tri
09:53
and we sent down the climbers that could make it down
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a poslali sme dole tých lezcov, ktorí to mohli zvládnuť
09:56
under their own power.
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vlastnými silami.
09:58
The ones that couldn't we just sort of decided to leave up at Camp Four.
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Tích, ktorí nemohli, sme sa rozhodli nechať hore v tábore štyri.
10:01
So the climbers were coming down along this route.
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Takže lezci schádzali dolu touto cestou.
10:03
This is taken from Camp Three, where I was.
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Toto je odfotené z tábora tri, kde som bol ja.
10:06
And they all came by me
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A všetci prešli okolo mňa,
10:08
so I could take a look at them and see what I could do for them,
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takže som sa mohol na nich pozrieť a zistiť, čo pre nich môžem urobiť.
10:12
which is really not much, because Camp Three
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V skutočnosti toho nebolo moc, lebo tábor tri
10:14
is a little notch cut in the ice
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je len malý zárez v ľade
10:16
in the middle of a 45-degree angle.
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uprostred 45 stupňového stúpania.
10:18
You can barely stand outside the tent.
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Mimo stanu sa máte ledva kde postaviť.
10:20
It's really cold; it's 24,000 feet.
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Je tam hrozná zima. Je to 7 300 metrov nad morom.
10:22
The only supplies I had at that altitude
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Jediné zásoby čo som mal v tej výške,
10:24
were two plastic bags
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boli dve plastové vrecká
10:26
with preloaded syringes
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so striekačkami predplnenými
10:28
of painkiller and steroids.
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liekmi proti bolesti a steroidmi.
10:31
So, as the climbers came by me,
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Takže, ako lezci chodili okolo mňa,
10:33
I sort of assessed whether or not they were in condition
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hodnotil som či sú, alebo nie sú v stave
10:35
to continue on further down.
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aby pokračovali ďaľej dolu.
10:37
The ones that weren't that lucid or were not that well coordinated,
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Tým, ktorí nemysleli až tak jasne alebo nemali dostatočnú koordináciu,
10:40
I would give an injection of steroids
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som dával injekcie steroidov,
10:43
to try to give them some period
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čím som sa pokúsil dopriať im chvíľku
10:45
of lucidity and coordination
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jasnej mysle a koordinácie,
10:47
where they could then work their way further down the mountain.
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počas ktorej by potom mohli pokračovať v ceste dole horou.
10:50
It's so awkward to work up there that sometimes
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Je to tak neobvyklé pracovať tak vysoko, že niekedy
10:52
I even gave the injections right through their clothes.
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som im dokonca dával injekcie priamo cez ich oblečenie.
10:54
It was just too hard to maneuver
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Bolo príliš ťažké manévrovať tam hore ihlou
10:57
any other way up there.
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akýmkoľvek spôsobom.
10:59
While I was taking care of them,
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Zatiaľ čo som sa o nich staral,
11:01
we got more news about Rob Hall.
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obdržali sme ďaľšie novinky o Robovi Hallovi.
11:03
There was no way we could get up high enough to rescue him.
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Nebola šanca vyliezť dostatočne vysoko aby sme ho zachránili.
11:07
He called in to say that he was alone now.
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Volal, aby nám oznámil, že už zostal sám.
11:10
Apparently, Doug had died higher up on the mountain.
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Doug podľa všetkého zomrel niekde vyššie na kopci.
11:13
But Rob was now too weak to come down himself,
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Ale Rob bol teraz príliš slabý na to, aby sám zišiel dole
11:16
and with the fierce winds and up at that altitude,
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a s takým zúrivým vetrom a v takej výške
11:19
he was just beyond rescue
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bol mimo dosahu záchrany
11:21
and he knew it.
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a on to vedel.
11:23
At that point, he asked
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V tom momente požiadal
11:25
to be paged into his wife.
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o rádiové spojenie so svojou ženou.
11:27
He was carrying a radio.
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Niesol rádio.
11:29
His wife was home in New Zealand,
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Jeho žena bola doma na Novom Zélande,
11:31
seven months pregnant with their first child,
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v siedmom mesiaci tehotenstva s ich prvým dieťaťom.
11:34
and Rob asked to be patched into her. That was done,
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A Rob požiadal, aby bol k nej prepojený. Stalo sa tak.
11:37
and Rob and his wife
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A Rob a jeho žena
11:39
had their last conversation.
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sa rozprávali poslednýkrát.
11:41
They picked the name for their baby.
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Vybrali meno pre ich bábo.
11:43
Rob then signed off,
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Rob potom ukončil spojenie
11:45
and that was the last we ever heard of him.
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a to bolo naposledy, čo sme ho počuli.
11:50
I was faced with treating a lot of critically ill patients
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Bol som nútený liečiť mnohých, ktiricky chorých pacientov
11:53
at 24,000 feet,
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vo výške 7 300 metrov,
11:55
which was an impossibility.
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čo bolo nemožné.
11:57
So what we did was, we got the victims
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Nakoniec sme teda spravili to, že sme obete zobrali
11:59
down to 21,000 feet, where it was easier for me to treat them.
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dole, do výšky 6 400 metrov, kde bolo pre mňa jednoduchšie ošetrovať ich.
12:02
This was my medical kit.
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Toto bola moja zdravotnícka výbava.
12:04
It's a tackle box filled with medical supplies.
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Je to krabica naplnená zdravotníckymi zásobami.
12:07
This is what I carried up the mountain.
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Toto som si zobral na horu.
12:10
I had more supplies lower down,
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Dole som mal viac zásob,
12:12
which I asked to be brought up to meet me at the lower camp.
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ktoré som si vyžiadal doniesť hore do nižšieho tábora.
12:15
And this was scene at the lower camp.
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A toto je scéna v nižšom tábore.
12:17
The survivors came in one by one.
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Tí čo prežili, prichádzali jeden za druhým.
12:20
Some of them were hypothermic,
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Niektorí z nich boli hypotermickí,
12:22
some of them were frostbitten, some were both.
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niektorí mali omrzliny, niektorí oboje.
12:25
What we did was try to warm them up as best we could,
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Robili sme to, že sme sa snažili zahriať ich najlepšie ako sme mohli,
12:28
put oxygen on them and try to revive them,
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dať im kyslík a pokúsiť sa ich vzkriesiť,
12:31
which is difficult to do at 21,000 feet,
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čo je vo výške 6 400 metrov skutočne náročné,
12:34
when the tent is freezing.
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keď stan mrzne.
12:38
This is some severe frostbite on the feet,
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Toto sú niektoré zo silných omrzlín na nohách,
12:41
severe frostbite on the nose.
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silné omrzliny na nose.
12:47
This climber was snow blind.
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Tento lezec trpel snežou slepotou.
12:49
As I was taking care of these climbers,
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Ako som sa tak staral o týchto lezcov,
12:51
we got a startling experience.
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zažili sme niečo úplne výnimočné.
12:56
Out of nowhere, Beck Weathers,
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Z ničoho nič, Beck Weathers,
12:58
who we had already been told was dead,
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o ktorom sme mali už správy že je mŕtvy,
13:01
stumbled into the tent,
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dokrivkal do stanu,
13:04
just like a mummy, he walked into the tent.
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vošiel dnu presne ako múmia.
13:07
I expected him to be incoherent,
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Očakával som, že bude pomätený,
13:09
but, in fact, he walked into the tent and said to me,
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ale v skutočnosti vošiel do stanu a povedal mi:
13:11
"Hi, Ken. Where should I sit?"
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"Ahoj Ken. Kam by som si mohol sadnúť?"
13:14
And then he said,
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A potom povedal:
13:16
"Do you accept my health insurance?"
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"Prijímaš pacientov aj z mojej zdravotnej poisťovne?"
13:18
(Laughter)
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(Smiech)
13:20
He really said that.
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Skutočne to povedal.
13:22
(Laughter)
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(Smiech)
13:24
So he was completely lucid, but he was very severely frostbitten.
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Bol teda úplne pri zmysloch, ale mal veľmi vážne omrzliny.
13:27
You can see his hand is completely white;
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Môžete vidieť, že jeho ruka je úplne biela
13:29
his face, his nose, is burned.
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a jeho tvár, jeho nos sú spálené.
13:31
First, it turns white, and then when it's completed necrosis,
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Najprv tkanivo zbledne, potom keď je kompletne znekrotizované
13:34
it turns black, and then it falls off.
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zčernie a potom odpadáva.
13:37
It's the last stage, just like a scar.
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To je posledné štádium, ako jazva.
13:39
So, as I was taking care of Beck,
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Ako som sa staral o Becka,
13:41
he related what had been going on up there.
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porozprával mi čo sa dialo hore.
13:43
He said he had gotten lost in the storm,
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Vravel, že sa stratil v búrke,
13:46
collapsed in the snow,
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skolaboval do snehu
13:48
and just laid there, unable to move.
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a iba tam ležal, neschopný sa pohnúť.
13:50
Some climbers had come by and looked at him,
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Nejakí lezci išli okolo a pozreli sa na neho
13:53
and he heard them say, "He's dead."
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a on počul ako vravia, "Je mŕtvy."
13:57
But Beck wasn't dead; he heard that,
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Ale Beck nebol mŕtvy, on to počul,
14:00
but he was completely unable to move.
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ale bol úplne neschopný pohybu.
14:02
He was in some sort of catatonic state
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Bol v akomsi katatonickom stave,
14:04
where he could be aware of his surroundings,
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keď mohol vnímať svoje okolie,
14:06
but couldn't even blink to indicate that he was alive.
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ale nemohol ani len žmurknúť, aby dal najavo že žije.
14:09
So the climbers passed him by,
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Lezci ho teda nechali tak
14:12
and Beck lay there for a day, a night
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a Beck tam ležal deň, noc
14:15
and another day,
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a ďaľší deň
14:17
in the snow.
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v snehu.
14:19
And then he said to himself,
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A potom sám sebe povedal,
14:21
"I don't want to die.
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"Nechcem umrieť,
14:23
I have a family to come back to."
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mám rodinu ku ktorej sa chcem vrátiť."
14:25
And the thoughts of his family,
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A myšlienky na jeho rodinu,
14:27
his kids and his wife,
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jeho deti a jeho ženu,
14:29
generated enough energy,
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vygenerovali v ňom dostatok energie,
14:32
enough motivation in him,
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dostatok motívacie,
14:34
so that he actually got up.
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že sa naozaj postavil.
14:36
After laying in the snow that long a time,
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Po tom, čo ležal v snehu tak dlhú dobu,
14:38
he got up and found his way back to the camp.
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sa postavil a našiel si cestu späť do tábora.
14:42
And Beck told me that story very quietly,
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A Beck mi povedal ten príbeh veľmi potichu,
14:44
but I was absolutely stunned by it.
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no bol som ním úplne ohromený.
14:47
I couldn't imagine anybody laying in the snow
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Nedokázal som si predstaviť nikoho ležať v snehu
14:49
that long a time
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tak dlhú dobu
14:51
and then getting up.
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a potom sa postaviť.
14:53
He apparently reversed
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Zjavne zvrátil
14:55
an irreversible hypothermia.
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nezvratnú hypotermiu.
14:58
And I can only try to speculate
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A ja môžem iba špekulovať,
15:01
on how he did it.
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ako sa mu to podarilo.
15:03
So, what if we had Beck
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Takže, čo by sme videli, keby by sme mali Becka
15:05
hooked up to a SPECT scan,
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pripojeného na SPECT sken,
15:07
something that could actually measure brain function?
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niečo čo by mohlo zmerať funkciu mozgu?
15:12
Just very simply, the three parts of the brain:
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Iba veľmi jednoducho, tri časti mozgu:
15:15
the frontal lobe, where you focus
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predný lalok, kde sú sústredené
15:17
your attention and concentration;
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vaša pozornosť a koncentrácia,
15:19
you have the temporal lobe,
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máte spánkový lalok,
15:21
where you form images and keep memories;
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kde sa formujú obrazy a udržiavajú spomienky
15:23
and the posterior part of your brain,
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a zadnú časť mozgu,
15:25
which contains the cerebellum, which controls motion;
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ktorá obsahuje mozoček, ktorý kontoluje pohyb
15:27
and the brain stem,
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a mozgový kmeň,
15:29
where you have your basic maintenance functions,
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kde máte základné fyziologické funkcie
15:31
like heartbeat and respiration.
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ako tep srdca a dýchanie.
15:33
So let's take a cut through the brain here,
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Zoberme si teda prierez mozgu
15:36
and imagine that Beck
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a predstavme si, že Beck
15:38
was hooked up to a SPECT scan.
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bol pripojený k SPECT skenu.
15:40
This measures dynamic blood flow
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Toto meria dynamický tok krvi
15:42
and therefore energy flow within the brain.
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a tým aj tok energie v mozgu.
15:44
So you have the prefrontal cortex here,
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Takže, tu máme prednú kôru
15:46
lighting up in red.
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žiariacu na červeno.
15:48
This is a pretty evenly distributed scan.
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Toto je vcelku rovnomerne rozložený sken.
15:50
You have the middle area,
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Máte strednú oblasť,
15:52
where the temporal lobe might be, in here,
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kde by mohol byť spánkový lalok, tuto
15:54
and the posterior portion, where the maintenance functions are in the back.
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a zadná časť, kde sú základné fyziologické funkcie je vzadu.
15:57
This is a roughly normal scan,
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Toto je približne normálny sken,
15:59
showing equal distribution of energy.
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ukazujúci rovnomerné rozloženie energie.
16:03
Now, you go to this one and you see how much more
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Teraz prejdite k tomuto a vidíte, ako veľmi
16:06
the frontal lobes are lighting up.
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sa predné časti rozsvecujú.
16:08
This might be what Beck would be experiencing
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Toto by mohlo byť to, čo Beck zažíval,
16:10
when he realizes he's in danger.
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keď si uvedomil, že je v nebezpečí.
16:12
He's focusing all his attention
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Sústredí všetku svoju pozornosť
16:14
on getting himself out of trouble.
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na to, aby sa dostal z problémov.
16:16
These parts of the brain are quieting down.
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Tieto časti mozgu utíchajú.
16:19
He's not thinking about his family or anybody else at this point,
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V tomto momente nemyslí na svoju rodinu, alebo kohokoľvek iného
16:22
and he's working pretty hard.
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a snaží sa poriadne silno.
16:24
He's trying to get his muscles going and get out of this.
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Pokúša sa prinútiť svalstvo k pohybu a dostať sa z toho.
16:30
OK, but he's losing ground here.
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Okey. Tu ale stráca silu.
16:33
He's running out of energy.
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Jeho energia sa mu míňa.
16:35
It's too cold; he can't keep his metabolic fires going,
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Je príliš veľká zima. Nemôže udržať svoj metabolický oheň v chode.
16:38
and, you see, there's no more red here;
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A, vidíte, nie je tu už žiadna červená.
16:40
his brain is quieting down.
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Jeho mozog začal utíchať.
16:42
He's collapsed in the snow here. Everything is quiet,
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Tu je skolabovaný v snehu. Všetko je tiché.
16:44
there's very little red anywhere.
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Všade je veľmi málo červenej.
16:47
Beck is powering down.
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Zadná strana sa vypína.
16:49
He's dying.
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Umiera.
16:53
You go on to the next scan,
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Presuňte sa na daľší sken,
16:55
but, in Beck's case,
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ale, v Beckovom prípade,
16:57
you can see that the middle part of his brain
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môžete vidieť, že stredná časť jeho mozgu
16:59
is beginning to light up again.
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sa začína opäť rozsvecovať.
17:02
He's beginning to think about his family.
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Začína rozmýšlať o svojej rodine.
17:04
He's beginning to have images
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Začína vidieť obrazy,
17:06
that are motivating him to get up.
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ktoré ho motivujú k tomu, aby vstal.
17:08
He's developing energy in this area
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Vytvára energiu v tejto oblasti
17:10
through thought.
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pomocou myšlienky.
17:12
And this is how he's going to turn thought
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A toto je spôsob akým ide premeniť myšlienku
17:15
back into action.
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späť na akciu.
17:18
This part of the brain is called the anterior cingulate gyrus.
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Táto časť jeho mozgu sa nazýva anterior cingulate gyrus.
17:20
It's an area in which
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Je to oblasť, v ktorej
17:22
a lot of neuroscientists believe
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podľa domnienky mnoho neurológov
17:25
the seat of will exists.
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sídli centrum vôle.
17:27
This is where people make decisions, where they develop willpower.
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Toto je miesto kde ľudia robia rozhodnutia, kde vytvárajú silu vôle.
17:30
And, you can see, there's an energy flow
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A môžete vidieť, že tam tečie energia
17:32
going from the mid portion of his brain,
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zo strednej časti mozgu,
17:34
where he's got images of his family,
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kde má obrazy svojej rodiny,
17:36
into this area, which is powering his will.
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do tejto oblasti, ktorá poháňa jeho vôľu.
17:41
Okay. This is getting stronger and stronger
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Okey. Toto stále silnie a silnie
17:43
to the point where it's actually
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až do bodu kde sa to skutočne
17:45
going to be a motivating factor.
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mení na motivačný faktor.
17:47
He's going to develop enough energy in that area --
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V tej oblasti vytvorí dostatok energie,
17:49
after a day, a night and a day --
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aby po dni, noci a dni,
17:51
to actually motivate himself to get up.
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motivoval sám seba na to aby vstal.
17:57
And you can see here,
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A tu môžete vidieť,
17:59
he's starting to get more energy into the frontal lobe.
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že začína dostávať viace energie do predného laloku.
18:01
He's beginning to focus, he can concentrate now.
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Začína zaostrovať. Dokáže sa teraz koncentrovať.
18:04
He's thinking about what he's got to do to save himself.
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Rozmýšľa nad tým, čo musí urobiť aby sa zachránil.
18:06
So this energy has been transmitted
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Takže táto energia bola prenesená
18:08
up toward the front of his brain,
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hore do prednej časti jeho mozgu
18:10
and it's getting quieter down here,
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a tu to začína utíchať,
18:12
but he's using this energy
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ale využíva túto energiu
18:14
to think about what he has to do to get himself going.
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na rozmýšľanie nad tým, čo musí robiť, aby sa rozhýbal.
18:17
And then, that energy is sort of spreading
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A potom sa táto energia šíri
18:20
throughout his thought areas.
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po jeho myšlienkovej oblasti.
18:22
He's not thinking about his family now, and he's getting himself motivated.
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Teraz nemyslí na svoju rodinu a motivuje sám seba.
18:25
This is the posterior part, where his muscles are going to be moving,
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Toto je zadná časť, kde sa pripravujú jeho svaly na pohyb,
18:28
and he's going to be pacing himself.
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a kde sa chystá pohnúť sám sebou.
18:30
His heart and lungs are going to pick up speed.
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Jeho srdce a pľúca sa chystajú zrýchliť.
18:33
So this is what I can speculate might have been going on
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Domnievam sa, že toto by sa dialo,
18:36
had we been able to do a SPECT scan on Beck
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keby sme boli schopní urobiť SPECT sken na Beckovi
18:39
during this survival epic.
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počas jeho eposu o prežití.
18:43
So here I am taking care of Beck at 21,000 feet,
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Tak tu sa starám o Becka vo výške 6400 metrov
18:46
and I felt what I was doing was completely trivial
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a cítil som, že to, čo robím je úplne triviálne
18:49
compared to what he had done for himself.
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v porovnaní s tým čo urobil on sám pre seba.
18:51
It just shows you what the power of the mind can do.
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Ukazuje vám to, čo dokáže sila mysle.
18:56
He was critically ill, there were other critically ill patients;
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Bol kriticky chorý. Boli tam ďaľší kriticky chorí pacienti.
18:58
luckily, we were able to get a helicopter
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Našťastie sa nám podarilo získať helikoptéru
19:00
in to rescue these guys.
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na záchranu týchto mužov.
19:03
A helicopter came in at 21,000 feet
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Helikoptéra priletela do výšky 6400 metrov
19:06
and carried out the highest helicopter rescue in history.
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a vykonala záchranu helikoptérou v najvyššej polohe v histórií.
19:10
It was able to land on the ice, take away Beck
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Bola schopná pristáť na ľade, zobrať Becka
19:12
and the other survivors, one by one,
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a ostatných zachránených, jedného po druhom preč
19:15
and get them off to Kathmandu in a clinic
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a dostať ich na kliniku v Kathmandu
19:18
before we even got back to base camp.
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dokonca skôr ako sme my vôbec zišli do základného tábora.
19:21
This is a scene at base camp,
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Toto je scéna v základnom tábore
19:23
at one of the camps
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v jednom z táborov,
19:25
where some of the climbers were lost.
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kde niektorí z lezcov stratili život.
19:27
And we had a memorial service there
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A mali sme tam spomienkovú bohoslužbu
19:29
a few days later.
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o pár dní neskôr.
19:31
These are Serphas lighting juniper branches.
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Toto sú šerpovia zapalujúci borievkové vetvičky.
19:34
They believe juniper smoke is holy.
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Veria že dym z borievky je posvätný.
19:37
And the climbers stood around on the high rocks
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A naokolo, na vysokých skalách, stáli horolezci
19:41
and spoke of the climbers who were lost
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a rozprávali o kolegoch ktorí prišli o život
19:44
up near the summit,
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tam hore, neďaleko vrchola,
19:46
turning to the mountain, actually, to talk to them directly.
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a aby rozprávali priamo k nim, obrátili sa k hore.
19:51
There were five climbers lost here.
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Boli tam stratení piati horolezci.
19:53
This was Scott Fischer,
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Boli to Scott Fischer,
19:58
Rob Hall,
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Rob Hall,
20:00
Andy Harris,
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Andy Harris,
20:02
Doug Hansen
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Doug Hansen,
20:04
and Yasuko Namba.
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a Yasuko Namba.
20:06
And one more climber
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A ešte jeden horolezec
20:08
should have died that day, but didn't,
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mal umrieť toho dňa, ale nestalo sa tak
20:11
and that's Beck Weathers.
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a to bol Beck Weathers.
20:14
He was able to survive
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Bol schopný prežiť
20:16
because he was able to generate that incredible willpower,
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lebo bol schopný vygenerovať tak neuveriteľnú silu vôle,
20:19
he was able to use all the power of his mind
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bol schopný použiť všetku silu svojho vedomia
20:22
to save himself.
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na to aby sa zachránil.
20:25
These are Tibetan prayer flags.
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Toto sú Tibetské modlitebné vlajočky.
20:27
These Sherpas believe that
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Títo šerpovia veria,
20:29
if you write prayers on these flags,
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že ak napíšete svoje modlitby na tieto vlajočky,
20:31
the message will be carried up to the gods,
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správa bude vynesená hore k bohom
20:34
and that year, Beck's message was answered.
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a v tom roku, bola vypočutá Beckova správa.
20:38
Thank you.
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Ďakujem.
20:40
(Applause)
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(Potlesk)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Ken Kamler - Adventure physicianKen Kamler has served as doctor on some of the world’s most daring expeditions, but also performs delicate microsurgery when at home in New York.
Why you should listen
Ken Kamler has practiced medicine in some of the most extreme conditions on Earth -- from the Andes mountains to the Antarctic ice to the Amazon rainforest. Many of his expeditions have been in concert with National Geographic, helping teams to carry out geological research and precision mapping less traveled areas of the world. He has also served as the chief high altitude physician in research by NASA, helping examine the human body’s response to high altitudes.
When not on expedition to a remote corner of the globe, Kamler practices microsurgery, specializing in hand reconstruction and finger reattachment. He has also chronicled his adventures in the books Doctor on Everest and Surviving the Extremes: A Doctor's Journey to the Limits of Human Endurance. His treatment of the climbers in the largest disaster to happen on Mount Everest was portrayed in the book Into Thin Air and in the IMAX film documentary, Everest. He has been active in promoting the Boy Scouts of America and currently serves as their Founders District Chairman in Queens, NY.
Ken Kamler | Speaker | TED.com