ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Suzanne Lee - Designer
TED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes.

Why you should listen

Fashion designer Suzanne Lee directs the BioCouture research project, which sprang from an idea in her book Fashioning the Future: Tomorrow’s Wardrobe, a seminal text on fashion and future technologies. Her research harnesses nature to propose a radical future fashion vision: Can we grow a dress from a vat of liquid?

Using bacterial-cellulose, Lee aims to address pressing ecological and sustainability issues around fashion and beyond. A Senior Research Fellow at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, she is working with scientists to investigate whether synthetic biology can engineer optimized organisms for growing future consumer products

More profile about the speaker
Suzanne Lee | Speaker | TED.com
TED2011

Suzanne Lee: Grow your own clothes

Suzanne Lee: Vzgojite lastna oblačila

Filmed:
1,519,065 views

Oblikovalka Suzanne Lee deli svoje poskuse gojenja materiala na osnovi Kombuche, ki se lahko uporabi kot tkanina ali rastlinsko usnje za izdelavo oblačil. Proces je očarljiv, rezultati so lepi (čeprav imajo še vedno eno slabo stran...), potencial pa je preprosto izreden.
- Designer
TED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:15
So as a fashionmoda designeroblikovalec,
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Kot modna oblikovalka
00:17
I've always tendedvečinoma to think of materialsmaterialov
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sem o materialih vedno razmišljala
00:19
something like this,
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nekako tako,
00:21
or this,
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ali tako,
00:24
or maybe this.
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ali morda tako.
00:27
But then I metsrečal a biologistbiolog,
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Potem pa sem srečala biologa
00:30
and now I think of materialsmaterialov like this --
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in zdaj o materialih razmišljam tako -
00:33
greenzelena teačaj, sugarsladkor,
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zeleni čaj, sladkor,
00:35
a fewmalo microbesmikrobi and a little time.
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nekaj mikrobov in malo časa.
00:38
I'm essentiallyv bistvu usinguporabo a kombuchaKombucha reciperecept,
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V bistvu uporabljam recept kombuche,
00:40
whichki is a symbioticsimbiotično mixmešamo
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ki je simbiotska mešanica
00:42
of bacteriabakterije, yeastskvasovke and other micro-organismsmikroorganizmi,
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bakterij, kvasovk in drugih mikroorganizmov,
00:45
whichki spinspin celluloseceluloze
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ki predejo celulozo
00:47
in a fermentationfermentacija processproces.
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v procesu vrenja.
00:50
Over time, these tinymajhen threadsniti
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Čez čas te majhne nitke
00:52
formobrazec in the liquidtekočina into layersplasti
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v tekočini oblikujejo plasti,
00:54
and produceproizvajajo a matmat on the surfacepovršina.
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ki na vrhu ustvarijo debelo plast.
00:59
So we startZačni by brewingpivovarstvo the teačaj.
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Začnemo s kuhanjem čaja.
01:01
I brewpiva up to about 30 literslitrov of teačaj at a time,
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Naenkrat skuham okoli 30 litrov čaja
01:04
and then while it's still hotvroče, adddodaj a couplepar of kiloskilogramov of sugarsladkor.
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in mu, dokler je še vroč, dodam nekaj kilogramov sladkorja.
01:07
We stirmešamo this in untildo it's completelypopolnoma dissolvedraztopi
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Mešamo, dokler se popolnoma ne raztopi,
01:10
and then pourpour it into a growthrast bathkopel.
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potem pa vlijemo v kad za rast.
01:12
We need to checkpreveri that the temperaturetemperatura
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Preveriti moramo, da se je temperatura
01:14
has cooledhlajeni to belowspodaj 30 degreesstopinj C.
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ohladila pod 30 stopinj Celzija.
01:17
And then we're readypripravljen to adddodaj the livingživeti organismorganizem.
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Potem smo pripravljeni, da dodamo žive organizme.
01:19
And alongskupaj with that, some aceticocetne acidkisline.
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Skupaj z njimi pa še nekaj ocetne kisline.
01:21
And onceenkrat you get this processproces going,
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Ko proces enkrat steče,
01:23
you can actuallydejansko recyclereciklirati
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lahko že povreto tekočino
01:25
your previousprejšnji fermentedfermentirano liquidtekočina.
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dejansko reciklirate.
01:28
We need to maintainvzdrževati an optimumoptimalno temperaturetemperatura for the growthrast.
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Za rast moramo vzdrževati optimalno temperaturo.
01:31
And I use a heattoplote matmat to sitsedi the bathkopel on
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Sama kad pokrijem z grelno blazino,
01:34
and a thermostattermostat to regulateurejajo it.
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s termostatom pa reguliram temperaturo.
01:36
And actuallydejansko, in hotvroče weathervreme, I can just growrastejo it outsidezunaj.
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Ko pa je vroče, pa lahko pravzaprav gojim kar zunaj.
01:39
So this is my minimini fabrictkanine farmkmetija.
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To je torej moja mini tovarna tkanin.
01:41
After about threetri daysdnevi,
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Po približno treh dneh
01:43
the bubblesmehurčki will appearPojavi se on the surfacepovršina of the liquidtekočina.
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se bodo na površini tekočine pojavili mehurčki.
01:46
So this is tellingpovedal us that the fermentationfermentacija is in fullpolno swingswing.
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To nam pove, da je vretje v polnem zamahu.
01:49
And the bacteriabakterije are feedinghranjenje
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In bakterije se hranijo
01:51
on the sugarsladkor nutrientshranila in the liquidtekočina.
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s sladkornimi hranili v tekočini.
01:53
So they're spinningpredenje these tinymajhen nanoNano fibersvlakna
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Tako tvorijo ta majhna nano vlakna
01:55
of purečisto celluloseceluloze.
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čiste celuloze.
01:57
And they're stickingdrži togetherskupaj, formingoblikovanje layersplasti
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Le-ta se sprijemajo in oblikujejo plasti,
01:59
and givingdajanje us a sheetlist on the surfacepovršina.
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ki nam na površini dajo plahto.
02:01
After about two to threetri weekstednih,
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Po približno dveh do treh tednih
02:03
we're looking at something whichki is about an inchpalčni in thicknessdebelina.
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vidimo nekaj, kar je približno za palec debelo.
02:06
So the bathkopel on the left is after fivepet daysdnevi,
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Kad na levi je po petih dneh,
02:09
and on the right, after 10.
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tista na desni pa po desetih.
02:11
And this is a staticstatični culturekulturo.
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In to je statična kultura.
02:13
You don't have to do anything to it;
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Ničesar vam ni treba delati;
02:15
you just literallydobesedno watch it growrastejo.
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dobesedno gledate, kako raste.
02:17
It doesn't need lightsvetloba.
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Ne potrebuje svetlobe.
02:19
And when it's readypripravljen to harvestžetev, you take it out of the bathkopel
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Ko je pripravljena na žetev, jo vzamete iz kadi
02:22
and you washpranje it in coldhladno, soapySapunast watervoda.
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in jo operete v hladni, milnati vodi.
02:24
At this pointtočka, it's really heavytežka.
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V tej fazi je resnično težka.
02:26
It's over 90 percentodstotkov watervoda,
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Preko 90 odstotkov je vode,
02:28
so we need to let that evaporateizhlapi.
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zato moramo pustiti, da izhlapi.
02:30
So I spreadširjenje it out ontona a woodenlesene sheetlist.
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Jaz jo razgrnem po leseni deski.
02:32
Again, you can do that outsidezunaj
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In spet, tudi to lahko naredite zunaj
02:34
and just let it drysuha in the airzrak.
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in pustite, da se posuši na zraku.
02:36
And as it's dryingsušenje, it's compressingstiskanje,
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Ko pa se suši, se tudi krči,
02:38
so what you're left with, dependingodvisno on the reciperecept,
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tako da vam ostane, odvisno od recepta,
02:40
is something that's eitherbodisi
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nekaj, kar je podobno
02:42
like a really light-weightlahka, transparentpregleden paperpapir,
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resnično lahkemu, prosojnemu papirju,
02:44
or something whichki is much more like a flexibleprilagodljiv vegetablezelenjava leatherusnje.
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ali pa nečemu, kar je bolj podobno prožnemu rastlinskemu usnju.
02:48
And then you can eitherbodisi cutcut that out
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In potem lahko to izrežete
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and sewšivati it conventionallykonvencionalno,
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in sešijete kot običajno,
02:52
or you can use the wetmokro materialmaterial
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lahko pa ta moker material uporabite
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to formobrazec it around a three-dimensionaltridimenzionalno shapeobliko.
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za ovijanje okoli tridimenzionalne oblike.
02:57
And as it evaporatesizhlapi,
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Med izhlapevanjem
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it will knitplesti itselfsama togetherskupaj, formingoblikovanje seamsšivi.
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se bo z oblikovanjem šivov spletlo skupaj.
03:01
So the colorbarva in this jacketjakno is comingprihajajo purelyčisto from greenzelena teačaj.
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Barva te jakne je tako izključno od zelenega čaja.
03:04
I guessugibati it alsotudi looksizgleda a little bitbit like humančlovek skinkoža,
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Mislim, da je nekoliko podobna tudi človeški koži,
03:06
whichki intriguesspletke me.
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kar mi je še posebej zanimivo.
03:09
SinceOd it's organicekološko,
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Ker je organska,
03:11
I'm really keennavdušeni to try and minimizezmanjšati the additionPoleg tega of any chemicalskemikalije.
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si resnično želim zminimizirati dodajanje kemikalij.
03:14
I can make it changesprememba colorbarva withoutbrez usinguporabo dyebarvanje
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Barvo lahko spremenim brez barvil
03:17
by a processproces of ironželezo oxidationoksidacije.
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s procesom oksidacije železa.
03:19
UsingZ uporabo fruitsadje and vegetablezelenjava stainingobarvanje,
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Z uporabo sadja in zelenjave
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createustvarite organicekološko patterningpatterning.
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lahko ustvarim organske vzorce.
03:23
And usinguporabo indigoIndigo,
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Z uporabo indiga pa
03:25
make it anti-microbialanti-mikrobne.
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dosežem protimikrobnost.
03:27
And in factdejstvo, cottonbombaž
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In bombaž pravzaprav
03:29
would take up to 18 dipsseske in indigoIndigo
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potrebuje do 18 pomakanj v indigo,
03:32
to achievedoseči a colorbarva this darktemno.
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da doseže tako temno barvo.
03:34
And because of the super-absorbencysuper-vpojnost of this kindvrste of celluloseceluloze,
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Zaradi super vpojnosti te vrste celuloze
03:37
it just takes one, and a really shortkratek one at that.
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pa potrebujemo samo eno, pa še to zelo kratko.
03:40
What I can't yetše do is make it water-resistantneprepustna za vodo.
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Ne znam pa je še narediti vodoodporne.
03:43
So if I was to walkhodi outsidezunaj in the raindež
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Če bi se torej danes s to obleko sprehodila
03:46
wearingnošenje this dressobleko todaydanes,
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zunaj na dežju,
03:48
I would immediatelytakoj startZačni to absorbabsorbira
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bi takoj začela vsrkavati
03:50
hugeogromno amountszneskov of watervoda.
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velikanske količine vode.
03:53
The dressobleko would get really heavytežka,
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Obleka bi postala resnično težka
03:55
and eventuallysčasoma the seamsšivi would probablyverjetno fallpadec apartRazen --
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in na koncu bi verjetno tudi šivi razpadli -
03:57
leavingodhod me feelingobčutek ratherprecej nakedgola.
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zaradi česar bi se počutila kar golo.
03:59
PossiblyMorda a good performanceizvedba piecekos,
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To bi lahko bila dobra točka za predstavo,
04:01
but definitelydefinitivno not idealidealen for everydayvsak dan wearobrabo.
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vsekakor pa ni idealno za vsakodnevno nošenje.
04:05
What I'm looking for
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Kar iščem, je način,
04:07
is a way to give the materialmaterial
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kako temu materialu dati
04:09
the qualitieskakovosti that I need.
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lastnosti, ki jih potrebujem.
04:11
So what I want to do is say to a futureprihodnost bugbug,
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Kar torej želim, je, da bakterijam prihodnosti rečem:
04:14
"SpinSpin me a threadnit.
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"Spleti mi nit.
04:16
AlignPoravnaj it in this directionsmer.
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Postavi jo v to smer.
04:18
Make it hydrophobichidrofobne.
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Napravi jo vodoodporno.
04:20
And while you're at it,
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In ko si že pri tem,
04:22
just formobrazec it around this 3D shapeobliko."
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jo oblikuj še okoli te 3D oblike."
04:25
BacterialBakterijske celluloseceluloze is actuallydejansko alreadyže beingbiti used for woundrana healingzdravljenje,
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Bakterijska celuloza se dejansko že uporablja za celjenje ran
04:29
and possiblymorda in the futureprihodnost
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in v prihodnosti morda
04:31
for biocompatiblebiokompatibilni bloodkri vesselsplovila,
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za biokompatibilne krvne celice,
04:34
possiblymorda even replacementzamenjava bonekosti tissuetkivo.
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ali pa celo kot nadomestno kostno tkivo.
04:36
But with syntheticsintetični biologybiologija,
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A z uporabo sintezne biologije
04:38
we can actuallydejansko imaginezamislite engineeringinženiring this bacteriumbakterija
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si lahko v resnici predstavljamo oblikovanje bakterije,
04:42
to produceproizvajajo something
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ki bi nam ustvarila nekaj,
04:44
that givesdaje us the qualitykakovost,
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kar nam da kakovost,
04:46
quantitykoličina and shapeobliko
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količino in obliko
04:48
of materialmaterial that we desireželja.
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materiala, ki si ga želimo.
04:50
ObviouslyOčitno, as a designeroblikovalec, that's really excitingvznemirljivo
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Kot oblikovalki mi je to seveda resnično razburljivo,
04:53
because then I startZačni to think, wowwow,
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ker potem začnem misliti, "Uau,
04:55
we could actuallydejansko imaginezamislite
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lahko bi si dejansko predstavljali
04:57
growingrastoče consumablepotrošni productsizdelkov.
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gojenje potrošnih izdelkov.
05:01
What excitesvznemirja me about usinguporabo microbesmikrobi
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Pri teh mikrobih mi je vznemirljiva
05:04
is theirnjihovi efficiencyučinkovitost.
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njihova učinkovitost.
05:06
So we only growrastejo what we need.
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Vzgojimo samo toliko kot rabimo.
05:08
There's no wasteodpadki.
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Ni odpadkov.
05:10
And in factdejstvo, we could make it from a wasteodpadki streamtok --
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Pravzaprav bi jih lahko ustvarjali iz odpadkov -
05:13
so for exampleprimer,
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na primer
05:15
a wasteodpadki sugarsladkor streamtok
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iz odpadnega sladkorja
05:17
from a foodhrano processingobravnavati plantrastlina.
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iz živilske tovarne.
05:19
FinallyKončno, at the endkonec of use, we could biodegradezgoreli it naturallynaravno
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Ob koncu njihove uporabe pa bi se lahko naravno razkrojili
05:22
alongskupaj with your vegetablezelenjava peelingsolupki.
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skupaj z zelenjavnimi olupki.
05:25
What I'm not suggestingpredlagamo is that microbialmikrobni celluloseceluloze
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Ne želim reči, da bo bakterijska celuloza
05:28
is going to be a replacementzamenjava
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postala nadomestek
05:30
for cottonbombaž, leatherusnje or other textiletekstil materialsmaterialov.
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za bombaž, usnje in druge tekstilne materiale.
05:33
But I do think it could be quitečisto a smartpameten and sustainabletrajnostno additionPoleg tega
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Vseeno pa mislim, da bi lahko bila precej pameten in trajnostni dodatek
05:37
to our increasinglyvse bolj preciousdragocen naturalnaravno resourcesvirov.
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našim vedno bolj dragocenim naravnim virom.
05:40
UltimatelyNa koncu, maybe it won'tne bo even be fashionmoda
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Konec koncev, morda sploh ne bo moda
05:42
where we see these microbesmikrobi have theirnjihovi impactvpliv.
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tista, kjer bodo te bakterije imele svoj vpliv.
05:44
We could, for exampleprimer, imaginezamislite
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Lahko si, na primer, predstavljamo,
05:46
growingrastoče a lampsvetilka, a chairstol,
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kako si vzgojimo svetilko, stol,
05:49
a caravto or maybe even a househiša.
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avtomobil ali morda celo hišo.
05:52
So I guessugibati what my questionvprašanje to you is:
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Tako mislim, da je moje vprašanje vam:
05:55
in the futureprihodnost, what would you chooseizberite to growrastejo?
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kaj bi v prihodnosti izbrali vi, da si vzgojite?
05:57
Thank you very much.
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Najlepša vam hvala.
05:59
(ApplauseAplavz)
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(aplavz)
06:08
BrunoBruno GiussaniGiussani: SuzanneSuzanne, just a curiosityradovednost,
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Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, samo iz radovednosti,
06:10
what you're wearingnošenje is not randomnaključen. (SuzanneSuzanne LeeLee: No.)
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kar nosiš, ni naključno. (Suzanne Lee: Ne.)
06:13
This is one of the jacketsjakne you grewnaraščal?
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To je ena od jaken, ki si jo vzgojila?
06:15
SLSL: Yes, it is.
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SL: Ja, je.
06:17
It's probablyverjetno -- partdel of the project'sprojekta still in processproces
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Najbrž je - le del projekta, ki še traja,
06:19
because this one
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ker tale tu
06:21
is actuallydejansko biodegradingbiorazgradnje in frontspredaj of your eyesoči.
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se dejansko razkraja pred vašimi očmi.
06:23
(LaughterSmeh)
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(smeh)
06:25
It's absorbingabsorbira my sweatznoj, and it's feedinghranjenje on it.
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Vsrkava moj pot in se z njim hrani.
06:28
BGBG: Okay, so we'llbomo let you go and saveshranite it, and rescuereševanje it.
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BG: Prav, te bomo pustili, da greš in jo rešiš.
06:30
SuzanneSuzanne LeeLee. (SLSL: Thank you.)
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Suzanne Lee. (SL: Hvala.)
06:33
(ApplauseAplavz)
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(aplavz)
Translated by Matej Divjak
Reviewed by Lenka Tušar

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Suzanne Lee - Designer
TED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes.

Why you should listen

Fashion designer Suzanne Lee directs the BioCouture research project, which sprang from an idea in her book Fashioning the Future: Tomorrow’s Wardrobe, a seminal text on fashion and future technologies. Her research harnesses nature to propose a radical future fashion vision: Can we grow a dress from a vat of liquid?

Using bacterial-cellulose, Lee aims to address pressing ecological and sustainability issues around fashion and beyond. A Senior Research Fellow at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, she is working with scientists to investigate whether synthetic biology can engineer optimized organisms for growing future consumer products

More profile about the speaker
Suzanne Lee | Speaker | TED.com