Taste3 2008
Benjamin Wallace: The price of happiness
Bendžamin Valas o ceni sreće
Filmed:
Readability: 3.9
2,178,942 views
Moze li sreća da se kupi? Da bi saznao, novinar Bendžamin Valas (Benjamin Wallace) je probao najskuplje svetske proizvode, uključujući flašu vina Chateau Cheval Blanc iz 1947., 230 g Kobe govedine i hvaljenu Kopi Luwak kafu. Njegova zapažanja će možda da vas iznenade.
Benjamin Wallace - Author
Benjamin Wallace is a journalist and author of The Billionaire's Vinegar, the true story of the world's most expensive bottle of (possibly phony?) wine. He's been a contributor to GQ, Details, Salon and The Washington Post. Full bio
Benjamin Wallace is a journalist and author of The Billionaire's Vinegar, the true story of the world's most expensive bottle of (possibly phony?) wine. He's been a contributor to GQ, Details, Salon and The Washington Post. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:16
I'm just going to play a brief video clip.
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Pustiću vam kratak video.
00:22
Video:
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Video: 50,000 £
00:23
On the fifth of December 1985, a bottle of 1787 Lafitte was sold
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Petog decembra 1985, flaša 1787 Lafitte je bila prodata
00:29
for 105,000 pounds -- nine times the previous world record.
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za 105 000 £ - devet puta više od prethodnog svetskog rekorda.
00:34
The buyer
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Gosp. Forbs.
00:36
was Kip Forbes,
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Kupac je bio Kip Forbs
00:38
son of one of the most flamboyant millionaires of the 20th century.
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sin jednog od najupadljivijih milionera 20. veka.
00:41
The original owner of the bottle turned out to be
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Originalni vlasnik flaše je, ispostavilo se
00:43
one of the most enthusiastic wine buffs of the 18th century.
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jedan od najvećih poznavalaca vina 18. veka.
00:47
Château Lafitte is one of the greatest wines in the world,
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Château Lafitte je jedno od najboljih vina na svetu,
00:51
the prince of any wine cellar.
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vladar svih vinskih podruma.
00:53
Benjamin Wallace: Now, that's about all the videotape that remains of an event
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Bendžamin Valas: I, to je ceo video zapis o tom događaju
00:55
that set off the longest-running mystery in the modern wine world.
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uvod u najveću misteriju modernog sveta vinarstva.
00:59
And the mystery existed because of a gentleman named Hardy Rodenstock.
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A misterija je nastala zahvaljujući gospodinu Hardiju Rodenstoku.
01:04
In 1985, he announced to his friends in the wine world
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On je, 1985., objavio svojim prijateljima u svetu vinarstava
01:07
that he had made this incredible discovery.
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da je ostvario neverovatno otkriće.
01:09
Some workmen in Paris had broken through a brick wall,
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Neki radnici u Parizu su provalili kroz zid od cigala,
01:13
and happened upon this hidden cache of wines --
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i pronasli skriveno skrovište za vino --
01:16
apparently the property of Thomas Jefferson. 1787, 1784.
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koje je očigledno pripadalo Tomasu Džefersonu. 1787, 1784.
01:21
He wouldn't reveal the exact number of bottles,
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Nije hteo da otkrije tačan broj flaša,
01:23
he would not reveal
exactly where the building was
exactly where the building was
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nije hteo da otkrije gde se nalazila zgrada sa skrivenim vinom
01:26
and he would not reveal exactly who owned the building.
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i nije hteo da otkrije ko je tačno posedovao zgradu.
01:29
The mystery persisted for about 20 years.
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Misterija je potrajala skoro 20 godina.
01:32
It finally began to get resolved in 2005 because of this guy.
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Konačno je počela da se otkriva 2005. zahvaljujući ovom čoveku.
01:37
Bill Koch is a Florida billionaire who owns four of the Jefferson bottles,
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Bil Koh je milijarder sa Floride koji poseduje četiri Džefersonove flaše,
01:40
and he became suspicious.
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i postao je sumnjičav.
01:42
And he ended up spending over a million dollars and hiring ex-FBI
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Potrošio je preko milion dolara i uposlio bivšeg FBI agenta
01:46
and ex-Scotland Yard agents to try to get to the bottom of this.
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i bivšeg Skotland Jard agenta da pokušaju da otkriju pozadinu svega.
01:50
There's now ample evidence that Hardy Rodenstock is a con man,
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Sada postoje obimni dokazi da je Hardi Rodenstok prevarant,
01:53
and that the Jefferson bottles were fakes.
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i da su Džeferson flaše bile prevara.
01:55
But for those 20 years,
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Ali u toku tih 20 godina,
01:57
an unbelievable number of really eminent and accomplished figures
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neverovatan broj istaknutih i školovanih ličnosti
02:03
in the wine world were sort of drawn into the orbit of these bottles.
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u svetu vina privukle su ove flaše.
02:05
I think they wanted to believe that the most expensive bottle of wine
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Mislim da su oni hteli da veruju da najskuplja flaša vina
02:10
in the world must be the best bottle of wine in the world,
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na svetu mora da bude i najbolja flaša vina,
02:13
must be the rarest bottle of wine in the world.
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i da mora da bude najređa flaša vina na svetu.
02:16
I became increasingly, kind of voyeuristically interested in the question of
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Ja sam postao, u neku ruku opsesivno zainteresovan da nađem odgovor
02:21
you know, why do people spend these crazy amounts of money,
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razumete, zašto ljudi troše sulude sume novca,
02:24
not only on wine but on lots of things,
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ne samo na vino nego i na mnoge druge stvari,
02:27
and are they living a better life than me?
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i da li oni žive bolje živote od mene?
02:29
So, I decided to embark on a quest.
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I tako sam se ja upustio u potragu.
02:31
With the generous backing of a magazine I write for sometimes,
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Uz iskrenu podršku magazina za koji povremeno pišem,
02:34
I decided to sample the very best, or most expensive, or most coveted item
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odlučio sam da probam najbolje ili najskuplje ili najpoželjnije predmete
02:41
in about a dozen categories,
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u desetak kategorija,
02:43
which was a very grueling quest,
as you can imagine.
as you can imagine.
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što je bio iscrpljujući poduhvat, kao što možete zamisliti.
02:45
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
02:46
This was the first one.
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Ovo je bio prvi.
02:48
A lot of the Kobe beef that you see in the U.S. is not the real thing.
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Mnogo Kobe govedine u SAD nije prava.
02:51
It may come from Wagyu cattle,
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Možda dolazi od Vagju stoke,
02:53
but it's not from the original, Appalachian Hyogo Prefecture in Japan.
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ali nije iz izvorne Apalači Hjogo prefekture u Japanu.
02:56
There are very few places in the U.S. where you can try real Kobe,
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Postoji svega nekoliko mesta u Americi gde možete da probate pravi Kobe,
02:59
and one of them is Wolfgang Puck's restaurant, Cut, in Los Angeles.
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jedan od njih je Volfgang Pakov restoran "CUT" u Los Anđeles-u.
03:03
I went there, and I ordered the eight-ounce rib eye for 160 dollars.
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Otišao sam tamo i poručio 220 grama bifteka za 160 dolara.
03:07
And it arrived, and it was tiny.
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Kad je stigao, bio je sitan.
03:09
And I was outraged.
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I ja sam bio besan.
03:11
It was like, 160 dollars for this?
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Šta, 160 dolara za ovo?
03:13
And then I took a bite,
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I tada sam uzeo zalogaj,
03:15
and I wished that it was tinier, because Kobe beef is so rich.
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i poželeo sam da je još tanji, zato što je Kobe govedina toliko zasitna.
03:19
It's like foie gras -- it's not even like steak.
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Više je kao jetrena pašteta -- čak i nije slična običnom bifteku.
03:22
I almost couldn't finish it.
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Skoro da nisam mogao da ga završim.
03:24
I was really happy when I was done.
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Stvarno sam bio srećan kad sam došao do kraja.
03:26
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
03:27
Now, the photographer who took the pictures for this project
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Fotograf koji je napravio fotografije za ovaj projekat
03:31
for some reason posed his dog in a lot of them,
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iz nekog razloga je stavio svog psa u neke,
03:33
so that's why you're going to see this recurring character.
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to je razlog zbog čega ćete nekoliko puta videti ovaj lik.
03:36
Which, I guess, you know, communicates to you
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Koji, pretpostavljate, vam sugeriše
03:38
that I did not think that one was really worth the price.
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da ja ne smatram da je taj biftek vredan te cene.
03:42
White truffles.
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Beli tartufi.
03:44
One of the most expensive luxury foods by weight in the world.
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Mereći po težini, jedna od najluksuznijh i najskupljih vrsta hrane.
03:46
To try this, I went to a Mario Batali restaurant
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Da bih ovo probao otišao sam u jedan restoran Maria Batalija
03:48
in Manhattan -- Del Posto.
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na Menhetnu -- "Del Posto".
03:50
The waiter, you know, came out with the white truffle knob
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Konobar je došao sa glavicom belog tartufa
03:53
and his shaver, and he shaved it onto my pasta and he said, you know,
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i oštrim nožem i nastrugao tanke listiće na moju pastu i pitao
03:57
"Would Signore like the truffles?"
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"Da li gospodin želi tartufe?"
03:59
And the charm of white truffles is in their aroma.
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Šarm tartufa je u njihovoj aromi.
04:01
It's not in their taste, really. It's not in their texture.
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Nije u njihovom ukusu, stvarno. Nije u njihovom sastavu.
04:04
It's in the smell.
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Nego je u mirisu.
04:05
These white pearlescent flakes hit the noodles,
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Kada su ti biserno beli listići pali na testeninu,
04:07
this haunting, wonderful, nutty, mushroomy smell wafted up.
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osetio sam taj prekrasni, očaravajuci, pečurkasti miris.
04:12
10 seconds passed and it was gone.
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10 sekundi je prošlo i nestao je.
04:14
And then I was left with these little ugly flakes on my pasta that,
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I sve što je tada ostalo su ove male ružne ljuspice na mojoj pasti,
04:18
you know, their purpose had been served,
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shvatate, njihov značaj je iskorišćen,
04:21
and so I'm afraid to say that this was also a disappointment to me.
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i tako, bojim se da me je i ovo razočaralo.
04:24
There were several -- several of these items were disappointments.
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Nekoliko od ovih skupih stvari me je razočaralo.
04:28
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
04:32
Yeah.
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Da.
04:33
The magazine wouldn't pay for me to go there.
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Magazin nije hteo da plati da prespavam tamo.
04:35
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
04:37
They did give me a tour, though.
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Iako, dozvolili su mi obilazak.
04:39
And this hotel suite is 4,300 square feet.
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Ovaj hotelski apartman ima 400 kvadratnih metara.
04:42
It has 360-degree views.
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Ima pogled od 360 stepeni.
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It has four balconies.
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Ima četiri balkona.
04:46
It was designed by the architect I.M. Pei.
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Dizajnirao ga je arhitekta I.M. Pei.
04:48
It comes with its own Rolls Royce and driver.
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Dobijate i Rols Rojsa i vozača.
04:50
It comes with its own wine cellar that you can draw freely from.
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Dobijate pravo i da slobodno koristite vinski podrum.
04:53
When I took the tour, it actually included some Opus One, I was glad to see.
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Obilazak je uključio i "Opus One", drago mi je da sam ga video.
04:57
30,000 dollars for a night in a hotel.
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30 000 dolara za noć u hotelu.
05:01
This is soap that's made from silver nanoparticles,
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Ovaj sapun je napravljen od nano komadića srebra,
05:05
which have antibacterial properties.
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koji imaju antimikrobijalno dejstvo.
05:08
I washed my face with this this morning in preparation for this.
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Umio sam lice sa njime jutros dok sam se spremao.
05:11
And it, you know, tickled a little bit and it smelled good,
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I, iskreno zagolicao me je malo i stvarno miriše lepo,
05:15
but I have to say that nobody here
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ali moram da kažem da mi danas niko ovde
05:17
has complimented me on the cleanliness of my face today.
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nije dao kompliment na čistoću mog lica.
05:19
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
05:20
But then again, nobody has complimented me on the jeans I'm wearing.
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Slično tome, niko nije primetio ni džins pantalone koje nosim.
05:26
These ones GQ did spring for -- I own these -- but I will tell you,
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Za njih je GQ uradio kampanju proletos -- ja ih posedujem -- ali
05:30
not only did I not get a compliment from any of you,
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ne samo da ih niko od vas nije pohvalio,
05:32
I have not gotten a compliment from anybody
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nisam dobio pohvalu ni od koga
05:34
in the months that I have owned and worn these.
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mesecima, koliko ih posedujem i nosim.
05:36
I don't think that whether or not you're getting a compliment
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Ne smatram da bi činjenica da li dobijate komplimente ili ne
05:38
should be the test of something's value,
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trebalo da utiče na vaše vrednovanje nečega,
05:40
but I think in the case of a fashion item, an article of clothing,
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ipak mislim da kada govorimo o modnim predmetima, odeći,
05:43
that's a reasonable benchmark.
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to je bitan faktor.
05:45
That said, a lot of work goes into these.
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Da se zna, mnogo truda je potrebno da se one naprave.
05:47
They are made from handpicked organic Zimbabwean cotton
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Napravljene su od ručno branog pamuka iz Zimbabvea
05:51
that has been shuttle loomed
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koji je bio tkan
05:54
and then hand-dipped in natural indigo 24 times.
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i onda ručno potopljen u prirodnu plavu boju 24 puta.
05:58
But no compliments.
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Ali ipak nije bilo komplimenata.
05:59
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
06:00
Thank you.
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Hvala.
06:04
Armando Manni is a former filmmaker who makes this olive oil
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Armando Mani je bivši filmadžija koji sada proizvodi ovo maslinovo ulje
06:06
from an olive that grows on a single slope in Tuscany.
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od maslina koje rastu na jednoj padini u Toskani.
06:10
And he goes to great lengths to protect the olive oil from oxygen and light.
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Ide u najsitnije detalje da zaštiti maslinovo ulje od kiseonika i svetlosti.
06:15
He uses tiny bottles, the glass is tinted,
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Koristi male flaše, zatamnjenog stakla,
06:18
he tops the olive oil off with an inert gas.
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zatvara maslinovo ulje inertnim gasom.
06:22
And he actually -- once he releases a batch of it,
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Ustvari -- kada proizvede seriju flaša,
06:25
he regularly conducts molecular analyses and posts the results online,
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on redovno sprovodi hemijsku analizu i objavljuje rezultate
06:30
so you can go online and look at your batch number
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tako da možete da odete na Interent i proverite svoju porudžbinu po broju
06:32
and see how the phenolics are developing,
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i da vidite kako dozreva,
06:34
and, you know, gauge its freshness.
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i naravno, proverite njegovu svežinu.
06:36
I did a blind taste test of this with 20 people and five other olive oils.
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Uradio sam slepo testiranje sa 20 ljudi i pet drugih maslinovih ulja.
06:40
It tasted fine. It tasted interesting.
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Imalo je prijatan ukus. Imalo je interesantan ukus.
06:42
It was very green, it was very peppery.
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Bio je veoma svež, ljutkast.
06:44
But in the blind taste test, it came in last.
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Ali pri slepom testiranju, zauzelo je zadnje mesto.
06:48
The olive oil that came in first was actually a bottle of
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Maslinovo ulje koje je zauzelo prvo mesto je ustvari bila flaša
06:51
Whole Foods 365 olive oil which had been oxidizing next to my stove
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običnog maslinovog ulja koje je u mojoj kuhinji bilo izloženo vazduhu
06:57
for six months.
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celih šest meseci.
06:58
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
07:08
A recurring theme is that a lot of these things are from Japan --
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Ponavlja se da mnogo ovih skupih stvari dolazi iz Japana
07:10
you'll start to notice.
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počećete da primećujete.
07:11
I don't play golf, so I couldn't actually road test these,
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Ne igram golf tako da nisam mogao da ih testiram,
07:14
but I did interview a guy who owns them.
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ali sam intervjuisao čoveka koji ih poseduje.
07:16
Even the people who market these clubs -- I mean, they'll say
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Čak i ljude koji prodaju ove štapove za golf -- znam, oni će reći
07:19
these have four axis shafts which minimize loss of club speed
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oni su posebno prilagođeni da povećaju ubrzanje zamaha
07:23
and thereby drive the ball farther -- but they'll say, look, you know,
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i stoga šalju lopticu najdalje -- ali to će oni reći, svakako razumete
07:27
you're not getting 57,000 dollars worth of performance from these clubs.
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da ne dobijate 57 000 dolara vredno znanje sa ovim štapovima.
07:30
You're paying for the bling,
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Vi ustvari plaćate status,
07:32
that they're encrusted with gold and platinum.
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oni su optočeni zlatom i platinom.
07:34
The guy who I interviewed who owns them did say
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Čovek koji ih poseduje mi je rekao
07:36
that he's gotten a lot of pleasure out of them, so ...
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da ga oni čine veoma zadovoljnim, dakle ...
07:40
Oh, yeah, you know this one?
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Ah, da, znate li za ovo ?
07:42
This is a coffee made from a very unusual process.
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Ovo je kafa proizvedena u veoma neobičnom procesu.
07:48
The luwak is an Asian Palm Civet.
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Luvak je azijski sisar.
07:50
It's a cat that lives in trees,
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To je mačka koja živi na drveću,
07:52
and at night it comes down and it prowls the coffee plantations.
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u toku noći siđe i luta plantažama kafe.
07:56
And apparently it's a very picky eater and it, you know,
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Očigledno je pažljiva u odabiru hrane,
07:58
hones in on only the ripest coffee cherries.
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hrani se najzrelijim plodovima kafe.
08:02
And then an enzyme in its digestive tract leeches into the beans,
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Enzimi iz njenog digestivnog trakta utiču na zrno,
08:06
and people with the unenviable job of collecting these cats' leavings
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i ljudi sa nezavidnim poslom skupljanja mačijeg izmeta
08:11
then go through the forest collecting the, you know, results
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idu kroz šumu i skupljaju, razumete, rezultate
08:16
and processing it into coffee -- although you actually can buy it
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i prerađuju u kafu -- iako možete ustvari i da kupite
08:20
in the unprocessed form.
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i neprerađeni originalni oblik.
08:24
That's right.
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Tako je.
08:26
Unrelatedly --
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Nevezano --
08:28
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
08:30
Japan is doing crazy things with toilets.
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Japan čini lude stvari sa toaletima.
08:33
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
08:40
There is now a toilet that has an MP3 player in it.
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Postoji novi toalet sa ugrađenim MP3 uređajem.
08:43
There's one with a fragrance dispenser.
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Postoji i jedan sa raspršivačem arome.
08:45
There's one that actually analyzes the contents of the bowl
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Čak postoji i toalet koji automatski analizira sadržaj
08:49
and transmits the results via email to your doctor.
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i onda preko e-maila dostavlja rezultate vašem doktoru.
08:53
It's almost like a home medical center --
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To je skoro kao kućni medicinski centar --
08:55
and that is the direction that Japanese toilet technology is heading in.
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i to je uglavnom pravac u kome se kreće Japanska WC tehnologija.
08:59
This one does not have those bells and whistles,
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Ovaj nema sve te čarolije,
09:01
but for pure functionality it's pretty much the best -- the Neorest 600.
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ali ako govorimo o funkcionalnosti, verovatno je najbolji -- "Neorest 600".
09:05
And to try this -- I couldn't get a loaner,
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Da bih probao ovaj -- nisam mogao da ga dobijem samo za sebe,
09:08
but I did go into the Manhattan showroom of the manufacturer, Toto,
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ali sam otišao u proizvođačev salon na Menhetnu,
09:13
and they have a bathroom off of the showroom that you can use, which I used.
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imaju toalet u salonu koji možete koristiti, što ja i jesam.
09:17
It's fully automated -- you walk towards it, and the seat lifts.
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Potpuno je automatizovan -- dok hodate prema njemu sedište se podigne.
09:20
The seat is preheated.
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Sedište je zagrejano.
09:22
There's a water jet that cleans you.
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Tu je vodeni mlaz koji vas opere.
09:24
There's an air jet that dries you.
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Tu je i vazdušni fen koji vas osuši.
09:26
You get up, it flushes by itself.
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Čim ustanete, sam pušta vodu.
09:28
The lid closes, it self-cleans.
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Sedište se spusti, sam se čisti.
09:30
Not only is it a technological leap forward,
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Ovo nije samo tehnološki napredak,
09:32
but I really do believe it's a bit of a cultural leap forward.
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ali stvarno ja verujem da je ovo pomalo i kulturološki napredak.
09:34
I mean, a no hands, no toilet paper toilet.
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Razumete, bez ruku, bez toalet papira.
09:37
And I want to get one of these.
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Stvarno želim jedan ovakav toalet.
09:39
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
09:43
This was another one I could not get a loaner of.
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Ovo je još jedna stvar koju nisam mogao da dobijem samo za sebe.
09:48
Tom Cruise supposedly owns this bed.
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Tom Kruz navodno poseduje ovakav krevet.
09:50
There's a little plaque on the end that, you know,
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Tu je ugrađena i počica,
09:52
each buyer gets their name engraved on it.
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svaki kupac dobije svoje ime ugravirano na njoj.
09:55
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
10:01
To try this one, the maker of it let me and my wife
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Da bih ovo probao, proizvođač je dozvolio meni i mojoj supruzi
10:03
spend the night in the Manhattan showroom.
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da provedemo noć u njihovom salonu na Menhetnu.
10:05
Lights glaring in off the street,
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Svetlost sa ulice nas je obasjavala,
10:07
and we had to hire a security guard and all these things.
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morali smo da iznajmimo i obezbeđenje.
10:10
But anyway, we had a great night's sleep.
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Ali u svakom slučaju, imali smo odlično prospavanu noć.
10:12
And you spend a third of your life in bed.
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Provodimo trećinu života u krevetu.
10:14
I don't think it's that bad of a deal.
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Mislim da to i nije toliko loše.
10:17
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
10:18
This was a fun one.
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Ovaj zadatak je bio zabavan.
10:20
This is the fastest street-legal car in the world
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Ovo je najbrži auto na svetu namenjen svakodnevnoj upotrebi
10:24
and the most expensive production car.
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i najskuplji auto u redovnoj proizvodnji.
10:26
I got to drive this with a chaperone from the company,
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Dobio sam da ga vozim ali sa pratiocem iz kompanije,
10:28
a professional race car driver,
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profesionalnim vozačem,
10:30
and we drove around the canyons outside of Los Angeles
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i vozili smo se po kanjonima izvan Los Anđelesa
10:33
and down on the Pacific Coast Highway.
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sve do autoputa.
10:35
And, you know, when we pulled up to a stoplight
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Kad god bi stali na semaforu
10:38
the people in the adjacent cars kind of gave us respectful nods.
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ljudi iz drugih auta bi nas gledali sa poštovanjem.
10:42
And it was really amazing.
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Stvarno je bilo neverovatno.
10:44
It was such a smooth ride.
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Vožnja je bila izuzetno prijatna.
10:46
Most of the cars that I drive, if I get up to 80 they start to rattle.
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Većina automobila koje sam do tada vozio bi počeli da se tresu na 120 km/h.
10:48
I switched lanes on the highway and the driver, this chaperone, said,
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Promenio sam traku na autoputu i vozač, nadzornik, mi je stavio do znanja
10:51
"You know, you were just going 110 miles an hour."
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"Znaš da vozimo brzinom od skoro 180 km/h".
10:53
And I had no idea that I was one of those obnoxious people
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Nisam imao pojma da sam ja jedan od onih omraženih vozača
10:56
you occasionally see weaving in and out of traffic,
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koje povremeno viđate da vijugaju kroz saobraćaj,
10:58
because it was just that smooth.
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sve to zato što je toliko ugodan za vožnju.
11:00
And if I was a billionaire, I would get one.
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Da sam milijarder, kupio bih jedan.
11:02
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
11:07
This is a completely gratuitous video I'm just going to show
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Ovo je jedan potpuno nevezani video
11:10
of one of the pitfalls of advanced technology.
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o padu moderne tehnologije.
11:12
This is Tom Cruise arriving at the "Mission: Impossible III" premiere.
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Ovo je Tom Kruz koji pristiže na premijeru filma "Nemoguća misija 3".
11:25
When he tries to open the door,
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Kad je pokušao da otvori vrata,
11:27
you could call it "Mission: Impossible IV."
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izgledalo je kao "Nemoguća misija 4".
11:32
There was one object that I could not get my hands on,
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Ipak postoji jedan predmet do kojega nisam mogao doći,
11:34
and that was the 1947 Cheval Blanc.
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a to je vino "Cheval Blanc" berba 1947.
11:36
The '47 Cheval Blanc is probably the most mythologized wine of the 20th century.
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"Cheval Blanc" '47. je verovatno vino o kome se najviše pričalo u 20. veku.
11:40
And Cheval Blanc is kind of an unusual wine for Bordeaux
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"Cheval Blanc" je pomalo neobično vino za Bordo
11:43
in having a significant percentage of the Cabernet Franc grape.
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zbog posedovanja značajnog procenta grožđa francuskog kabernea.
11:47
And 1947 was a legendary vintage,
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A 1947. je legendarna berba,
11:50
especially in the right bank of Bordeaux.
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posebno na desnoj obali Bordoa.
11:52
And just together, that vintage and that chateau took on this aura
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I samo zajedno, ta berba i ovo vino su toliko impresivni
11:56
that eventually kind of gave it this cultish following.
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to je konačno i stvorilo kult.
12:00
But it's 60 years old.
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Ali sada je staro 60 godina.
12:02
There's not much of it left.
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I nije ga mnogo ostalo.
12:04
What there is of it left you don't know if it's real --
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Za to što je ostalo više se i ne zna da li je pravo --
12:06
it's considered to be the most faked wine in the world.
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smatra se da je to vino koje je najviše krivotvoreno.
12:08
Not that many people are looking to pop open
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Nema mnogo ljudi koji su spremni da otvore
12:10
their one remaining bottle for a journalist.
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svoju poslednju flašu zarad jednog novinara.
12:14
So, I'd about given up trying to get my hands on one of these.
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I tako, već sam počeo da odustajem od traženja.
12:18
I'd put out feelers to retailers, to auctioneers,
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Pokušavao sam sa prodavcima, aukcionarima,
12:20
and it was coming up empty.
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i bilo je bezuspešno.
12:22
And then I got an email from a guy named Bipin Desai.
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I tada mi je stigao e-mail od čoveka po imenu Bipin Desai.
12:24
Bipin Desai is a U.C. Riverside theoretical physicist
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Bipin Desai je teoretski fizičar,
12:28
who also happens to be the preeminent organizer of rare wine tastings,
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koji je istovremeno i poznati organizator testiranja retkih vina,
12:32
and he said, "I've got a tasting coming up
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poručio mi je, "Organizovao sam testiranje
12:34
where we're going to serve the '47 Cheval Blanc."
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na kome ćemo da serviramo '47 "Cheval Blanc"".
12:36
And it was going to be a double vertical --
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Biće to dvostruko vertikalno testiranje --
12:38
it was going to be 30 vintages of Cheval Blanc,
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biće 30 starih "Cheval Blanc" vina,
12:41
and 30 vintages of Yquem.
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i 30 starih "Yquem" vina (vino sa juga Bordoa).
12:43
And it was an invitation you do not refuse.
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To je bio poziv koji se ne može odbiti.
12:46
I went.
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Otišao sam.
12:48
It was three days, four meals.
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Trajalo je tri dana, četiri obroka.
12:50
And at lunch on Saturday, we opened the '47.
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Za vreme subotnjeg ručka, otvorili smo '47.
12:53
And you know, it had this fragrant softness,
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Iskreno, poseduje neku aromatičnu mekoću,
12:57
and it smelled a little bit of linseed oil.
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pomalo je mirisalo na seme lana.
13:00
And then I tasted it, and it,
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Okusio sam ga i
13:02
you know, had this kind of unctuous, porty richness,
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imalo je uljastu, sladunjavu zasićenost,
13:06
which is characteristic of that wine --
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što je karakteristika tog vina --
13:08
that it sort of resembles port in a lot of ways.
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na mnogo načina je podsećalo na porto.
13:10
There were people at my table who thought it was, you know, fantastic.
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Neki ljudi za mojim stolom su ga smatrali fantastičnim.
13:12
There were some people who were a little less impressed.
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Opet neki drugi su bili malo manje impresionirani.
13:16
And I wasn't that impressed.
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Ni ja nisam bio toliko impresioniran.
13:19
And I don't -- call my palate a philistine palate --
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Nisam -- možda zbog mog neistančanog ukusa --
13:23
so it doesn't necessarily mean something that I wasn't impressed,
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iako ne mora da znači da sam u pravu,
13:27
but I was not the only one there who had that reaction.
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ali ja nisam bio jedini tamo koji je imao takvu reakciju.
13:30
And it wasn't just to that wine.
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I to ne samo za to vino.
13:32
Any one of the wines served at this tasting,
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Bilo koje od tih vina serviranih u toku testiranja,
13:34
if I'd been served it at a dinner party, it would have been, you know,
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da je bilo servirano za vreme obične večere, bilo bi
13:37
the wine experience of my lifetime, and incredibly memorable.
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životno vinsko iskustvo i izuzetna uspomena.
13:40
But drinking 60 great wines over three days,
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Ali piti 60 najboljih vina u toku tri dana,
13:43
they all just blurred together,
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sva su se jednostavno izmešala,
13:45
and it became almost a grueling experience.
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i skoro je postalo veoma zamorno.
13:49
And I just wanted to finish by mentioning a very interesting study
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Hteo bih da zavrsim tako sto ću da pomenem veoma interesantno istraživanje
13:53
which came out earlier this year from some researchers at Stanford and Caltech.
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koje je objavljeno početkom godine od strane istaživača na Stenfordu i Colteku.
13:57
And they gave subjects the same wine,
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Oni su dali ispitanicima isto vino,
14:01
labeled with different price tags.
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sa različitim cenama na etiketama.
14:03
A lot of people, you know,
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Mnogo ljudi je, naravno,
14:05
said that they liked the more expensive wine more --
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reklo da im se svidelo skuplje vino --
14:08
it was the same wine, but they thought it was a different one
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bilo je to potpuno isto vino, ali su oni mislili da je različito
14:10
that was more expensive.
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mislili su da je skuplje.
14:12
But what was unexpected was that these researchers did
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Ali ono što nije bilo očekivano je da su ti istaživači istovremeno sproveli
14:14
MRI brain imaging while the people were drinking the wine,
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snimanje moždane aktivnosti dok su ispitanici pili vino,
14:17
and not only did they say they enjoyed the more expensively labeled wine more --
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oni ne samo da su izjavili da im se skuplje vino više sviđa --
14:21
their brain actually registered as experiencing more pleasure
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već je i njihov mozak registrovao više zadovoljstva
14:25
from the same wine when it was labeled with a higher price tag.
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od istog vina ali sa skupljom etiketom.
14:28
Thank you.
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Hvala.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Benjamin Wallace - AuthorBenjamin Wallace is a journalist and author of The Billionaire's Vinegar, the true story of the world's most expensive bottle of (possibly phony?) wine. He's been a contributor to GQ, Details, Salon and The Washington Post.
Why you should listen
A Washington D.C. native and a current Brooklynite, Benjamin Wallace is fast establishing himself a master of the brainy nonfiction thriller, rooting up feuds and controversies in pop and less-than-pop culture while buddying up with their embattled and larger-than-life personalities (whom he sometimes meets on their way down). He profiled conserative mouthpiece Glenn Beck for GQ in 2007 shortly after the pundit landed a controversial slot on CNN, and in 2002 looked at chef Georges Perrier of Philidelphia's then-five-star restaurant, Le Bec-Fin.
Wallace's orderly, deadpan writing style hints at one of his secrets: his love (and talent) for playing the straight man to the once-mighty in downfall, right as they go aflame in tragicomic hubris. (The Billionaire's Vinegar is simply a pleasure, not least to schadenfreude junkies.) It's easy to imagine him, the bespectacled wallflower, watching as brouhaha over a wine bottle once valued at $165,000 -- the highest price fetched for a bottle, ever -- culimates in a court trial that reveals at least two of its main characters, a wine collector and a wine expert, to be frauds. Or at least emperors with no clothes.
Benjamin Wallace | Speaker | TED.com