TED2015
Chris Burkard: The joy of surfing in ice-cold water
Chris Burkard: 在极寒冰海中冲浪的快乐
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“所有值得追求的东西都会让我们经受一点点磨难”冲浪摄影师Chris Burkard这样说着，解释他為何对地球上最冷、最汹涌、 最与世隔绝的海岸如此痴迷。透过那些鼓舞人心的照片以及到人迹罕至处冲浪的故事，将带领我们进入他的「对抗平庸的个人长征」。
Chris Burkard - Surf photographer
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:13
So if I told you that
this was the face of pure joy,
this was the face of pure joy,
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如果我告诉你
这是一张纯粹快乐的面孔
这是一张纯粹快乐的面孔
00:19
would you call me crazy?
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你会说我是疯子吗？
我不会怪你，
00:22
I wouldn't blame you,
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00:23
because every time I look at this
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
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因为每次看到这张北极自拍，
我都会哆嗦一下。
我都会哆嗦一下。
00:28
I want to tell you
a little bit about this photograph.
a little bit about this photograph.
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我想要讲讲这张照片的故事，
00:31
I was swimming around
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
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我当时在挪威的罗弗敦群岛游泳，
00:35
just inside the Arctic Circle,
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正好位于北极圈，
00:37
and the water was hovering
right at freezing.
right at freezing.
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水温几乎接近冰点。
00:40
The air? A brisk -10 with windchill,
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空气清冷，零下10度还伴有寒风，
00:44
and I could literally feel the blood
trying to leave my hands,
trying to leave my hands,
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我可以真切地感觉到
血液正试图从四肢和脸部抽离，
血液正试图从四肢和脸部抽离，
00:47
feet and face, and rush
to protect my vital organs.
to protect my vital organs.
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然后急速流淌着
去保护我最重要的器官。
去保护我最重要的器官。
00:52
It was the coldest I've ever been.
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那是我最冷的一次
但是即使我的嘴唇肿胀
眼睛下陷，脸蛋冻得通红，
眼睛下陷，脸蛋冻得通红，
00:55
But even with swollen lips, sunken eyes,
and cheeks flushed red,
and cheeks flushed red,
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00:59
I have found that this place right here
is somewhere I can find great joy.
is somewhere I can find great joy.
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我却在这里找到了意想不到的快乐。
说到疼痛，心理学家 Brock Bastian
01:06
Now, when it comes to pain,
psychologist Brock Bastian
psychologist Brock Bastian
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01:09
probably said it best when he wrote,
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可能对它了解最深，他曾经这样写道
01:11
"Pain is a kind of shortcut
to mindfulness.
to mindfulness.
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“疼痛是一种注意力的捷径
01:14
It makes us suddenly aware
of everything in the environment.
of everything in the environment.
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它使我们立即意识到周围的一切。
01:18
It brutally draws us in
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它用残忍地方式让我们
01:20
to a virtual sensory awareness
of the world much like meditation."
of the world much like meditation."
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进入洞穿世界本质的感觉中
非常类似于冥想。“
非常类似于冥想。“
01:25
If shivering is a form of meditation,
then I would consider myself a monk.
then I would consider myself a monk.
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如果颤抖是冥想的一种方式，
我会觉得自己是一个和尚。
我会觉得自己是一个和尚。
01:28
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
01:29
Now, before we get into the why
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在我解释为什么之前
01:32
would anyone ever want to surf
in freezing cold water?
in freezing cold water?
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请问有没有人
曾经想过要在冰水里冲浪？
曾经想过要在冰水里冲浪？
01:35
I would love to give you
a little perspective
a little perspective
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我很乐意让你门看看
01:38
on what a day in my life can look like.
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我生活中的一天是怎么样的。
01:41
(Music)
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（音乐）
02:28
(Video) Man: I mean, I know
we were hoping for good waves,
we were hoping for good waves,
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（视频）我们期待出现更汹涌的浪，
但我们对此都没有信心。
02:31
but I don't think anybody thought
that was going to happen.
that was going to happen.
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我抖个不停。
02:34
I can't stop shaking.
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我太冷了。
02:36
I am so cold.
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02:40
(Music)
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（音乐）
02:43
(Applause)
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（掌声）
02:48
Chris Burkard: So,
surf photographer, right?
surf photographer, right?
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海浪摄影师，对吧？
02:51
I don't even know
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
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说实话我不确定，
这是不是一个真实存在的职业名。
这是不是一个真实存在的职业名。
02:54
My parents definitely didn't think so
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但显然我父母觉得它不是。
02:56
when I told them at 19 I was quitting
my job to pursue this dream career:
my job to pursue this dream career:
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那时我19岁我告诉他们
要辞掉工作去追求这个理想中的职业；
要辞掉工作去追求这个理想中的职业；
03:01
blue skies, warm tropical beaches,
and a tan that lasts all year long.
and a tan that lasts all year long.
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蓝色的天空，温暖的热带沙滩
还有常年被晒得棕黄色的皮肤
还有常年被晒得棕黄色的皮肤
03:06
I mean, to me, this was it.
Life could not get any better.
Life could not get any better.
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对于我来说，没有比这更好的生活了。
03:10
Sweating it out, shooting surfers
in these exotic tourist destinations.
in these exotic tourist destinations.
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让自己汗流浃背
在异国的旅游景点拍摄那些冲浪者。
在异国的旅游景点拍摄那些冲浪者。
03:14
But there was just this one problem.
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但是有一个问题。
03:16
You see, the more time I spent traveling
to these exotic locations,
to these exotic locations,
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如你所见，
我在这些美丽的地方旅行的越久，
我在这些美丽的地方旅行的越久，
03:20
the less gratifying it seemed to be.
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它们所带来满足感就越少。
03:23
I set out seeking adventure,
and what I was finding was only routine.
and what I was finding was only routine.
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我出发是为了去冒险
但是我却只得到了乏味。
但是我却只得到了乏味。
它变成了Wi-Fi，电视，
美食，和稳定的手机信号
美食，和稳定的手机信号
03:27
It was things like wi-fi, TV, fine dining,
and a constant cellular connection
and a constant cellular connection
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03:32
that to me were all the trappings
of places heavily touristed
of places heavily touristed
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对于我来说
它们都是旅游热门景点的诱惑因素
它们都是旅游热门景点的诱惑因素
03:35
in and out of the water,
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水里水外都一样，
03:37
and it didn't take long
for me to start feeling suffocated.
for me to start feeling suffocated.
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没过多久，我就开始感到窒息
03:43
I began craving wild, open spaces,
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我开始渴望原野的开阔的地方
03:47
and so I set out to find the places
others had written off
others had written off
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所以我出发去寻找其他人所忽视的地方
它们可能太冷，太偏远，
或者对于冲浪太过危险。
或者对于冲浪太过危险。
03:50
as too cold, too remote,
and too dangerous to surf,
and too dangerous to surf,
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这些挑战反而激起我的兴趣。
03:54
and that challenge intrigued me.
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我踏上了一场对抗平庸的个人长征，
03:57
I began this sort of personal crusade
against the mundane,
against the mundane,
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04:01
because if there's
one thing I've realized,
one thing I've realized,
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因为我意识到一件事情，
04:04
it's that any career,
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任何的职业，
04:05
even one as seemingly glamorous
as surf photography,
as surf photography,
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甚至是看上去风光无限
如海浪摄影师这样的职业，
如海浪摄影师这样的职业，
都有变得单调乏味的危险。
04:09
has the danger of becoming monotonous.
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所以在我寻求打破乏味的时候
我意识到：
我意识到：
04:12
So in my search to break up
this monotony, I realized something:
this monotony, I realized something:
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04:15
There's only about a third
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
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世界上只有三分之一的海洋是温暖的，
04:18
and it's really just that thin band
around the equator.
around the equator.
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只是沿着赤道的那窄窄的一条儿。
所以如果要去寻找那些完美地海浪，
04:21
So if I was going to find perfect waves,
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04:24
it was probably going
to happen somewhere cold,
to happen somewhere cold,
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它们很可能会在极寒之地，
04:26
where the seas are notoriously rough,
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可能会在众所周知的危险海域，
04:28
and that's exactly where I began to look.
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而那些地方正是我所寻找的。
04:31
And it was my first trip to Iceland
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我第一次到达冰岛
04:33
that I felt like I found
exactly what I was looking for.
exactly what I was looking for.
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便感觉到这就是我要寻找的地方。
那里优美的自然风光让我折服，
04:36
I was blown away
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
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04:40
but most importantly, I couldn't believe
we were finding perfect waves
we were finding perfect waves
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但是更重要的是
我不敢相信我们
我不敢相信我们
在世界上如此遥远、崎岖的地方
找到了完美的浪花。
找到了完美的浪花。
04:44
in such a remote and rugged
part of the world.
part of the world.
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04:47
At one point, we got to the beach
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有那么一次，我们去到海滩
04:49
only to find massive chunks of ice
had piled on the shoreline.
had piled on the shoreline.
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却只发现海岸线上堆满了巨大的冰块。
04:53
They created this barrier
between us and the surf,
between us and the surf,
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它们在我们和海浪之间制造出一个屏障，
04:55
and we had to weave
through this thing like a maze
through this thing like a maze
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我们需要像走迷宫一样
在这些冰块中穿梭
在这些冰块中穿梭
04:57
just to get out into the lineup.
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只为冲出阻隔进入大海。
04:59
and once we got there,
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有次我们到了那里
05:00
we were pushing aside these ice chunks
trying to get into waves.
trying to get into waves.
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我们把这些大冰块推开，
试图进入海浪里
试图进入海浪里
05:03
It was an incredible experience,
one I'll never forget,
one I'll never forget,
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这是一次不可思议的体验，
我永远也不会忘记
我永远也不会忘记
05:07
because amidst those harsh conditions,
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因为在些恶劣的环境中
05:10
I felt like I stumbled onto
one of the last quiet places,
one of the last quiet places,
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我感觉像是自己无意中走到了
世界上最后的净土
世界上最后的净土
05:14
somewhere that I found a clarity
and a connection with the world
and a connection with the world
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在这，我找到了解与连接世界的方法。
05:17
I knew I would never find
on a crowded beach.
on a crowded beach.
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我知道，在一个拥挤的海滩上
永远不会有这种感受
永远不会有这种感受
05:22
I was hooked. I was hooked. (Laughter)
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我被深深地，深深地吸引了 （笑声）
05:25
Cold water was constantly on my mind,
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那些冰水的时常涌入我的脑海，
05:28
and from that point on,
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从那时起，
我的事业就专注在
这些恶劣却让人难以忘怀的地方，
这些恶劣却让人难以忘怀的地方，
05:29
my career focused on these types of harsh
and unforgiving environments,
and unforgiving environments,
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05:32
and it took me to places like Russia,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
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我去到了俄罗斯、挪威、
阿拉斯加、冰岛、智利
阿拉斯加、冰岛、智利
05:36
the Faroe Islands,
and a lot of places in between.
and a lot of places in between.
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法罗群岛，
还有它们之间的许多地方。
还有它们之间的许多地方。
05:39
And one of my favorite things
about these places
about these places
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这些地方最吸引我的原因之一
05:42
was simply the challenge and
the creativity it took just to get there:
the creativity it took just to get there:
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就是挑战和到达这些地方所需要的创作力
05:46
hours, days, weeks spent on Google Earth
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我们花几个小时、几天、
几个星期研究谷歌地图
几个星期研究谷歌地图
05:48
trying to pinpoint any remote stretch
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
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试图去准确定位那些偏僻的
但是实际上可以到达的海滩或暗礁
但是实际上可以到达的海滩或暗礁
一旦我们到达，交通工具也一样有创意；
05:53
And once we got there,
the vehicles were just as creative:
the vehicles were just as creative:
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05:56
snowmobiles, six-wheel
Soviet troop carriers,
Soviet troop carriers,
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摩托雪橇，六轮苏联部队军车，
05:59
and a couple of super-sketchy
helicopter flights.
helicopter flights.
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还有一些超级简约的直升机。
06:03
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
06:05
Helicopters really scare me, by the way.
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另外，我真的很害怕乘坐直升机。
还有一次很特别的颠簸的坐船体验
06:08
There was this one particularly
bumpy boat ride
bumpy boat ride
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06:11
up the coast of Vancouver Island
to this kind of remote surf spot,
to this kind of remote surf spot,
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从温哥华岛海岸去偏僻的冲浪点，
06:14
where we ended up watching
helplessly from the water
helplessly from the water
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最后我们只能在水上无助得观望
06:16
as bears ravaged our camp site.
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因为熊毁了我们的露营地。
06:19
They walked off with our food
and bits of our tent,
and bits of our tent,
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它们吃了我们的食物，
还咬坏了帐篷
还咬坏了帐篷
06:22
clearly letting us know that we
were at the bottom of the food chain
were at the bottom of the food chain
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明显是想让我们知道
我们在食物链的最底层
我们在食物链的最底层
而这里它们的地盘，不是我们的。
06:25
and that this was their spot, not ours.
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06:27
But to me, that trip
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但是对于我来说，那次旅行
是我用那些商业性海滩
换到原生态的一纸契约。
换到原生态的一纸契约。
06:29
was a testament to the wildness
I traded for those touristy beaches.
I traded for those touristy beaches.
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直到我旅行到挪威 -- （笑声）--
06:36
Now, it wasn't until I traveled
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
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我才真的学会去欣赏寒冷。
06:40
that I really learned
to appreciate the cold.
to appreciate the cold.
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在这个地方
06:44
So this is the place
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06:46
where some of the largest,
the most violent storms in the world
the most violent storms in the world
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有一些世界上最大、最凶猛的暴风雪
06:49
send huge waves smashing
into the coastline.
into the coastline.
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推着巨大的海浪拍向海岸线
06:52
We were in this tiny, remote fjord,
just inside the Arctic Circle.
just inside the Arctic Circle.
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我们在一个又小又偏僻的峡湾上
刚刚进入北极圈里。
刚刚进入北极圈里。
06:56
It had a greater population
of sheep than people,
of sheep than people,
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这里的羊比人多，
06:59
so help if we needed it
was nowhere to be found.
was nowhere to be found.
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所以如果我们需要帮助根本找不到人
我当时正在水里拍摄冲浪者，
07:02
I was in the water
taking pictures of surfers,
taking pictures of surfers,
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07:05
and it started to snow.
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突然开始下雪了。
07:08
And then the temperature began to drop.
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紧接着温度就开始下降。
07:12
And I told myself, there's not a chance
you're getting out of the water.
you're getting out of the water.
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我告诉我自己：你不能从水里出来。
07:15
You traveled all this way, and this is
exactly what you've been waiting for:
exactly what you've been waiting for:
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你一路跋涉，
而这里正是你一直翘首期盼的地方：
而这里正是你一直翘首期盼的地方：
极寒的天气和完美地海浪
07:19
freezing cold conditions
with perfect waves.
with perfect waves.
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即使我的手指没有知觉
按不了快门。
按不了快门。
07:21
And although I couldn't even feel
my finger to push the trigger,
my finger to push the trigger,
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我还是知道我不会出去。
07:24
I knew I wasn't getting out.
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07:26
So I just did whatever I could.
I shook it off, whatever.
I shook it off, whatever.
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所以无论如何我要排除杂念，
做我所能做的。
做我所能做的。
07:28
But that was the point that I felt
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但是这时候我感觉到
07:30
this wind gush through
the valley and hit me,
the valley and hit me,
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风穿过山谷，喷涌而出，击打在我身上
07:32
and what started as this light snowfall
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
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这场小雪很快变彻底成了暴风雪，
07:38
and I started to lose
perception of where I was.
perception of where I was.
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我开始认不清自己的方位。
07:42
I didn't know if I was drifting
out to sea or towards shore,
out to sea or towards shore,
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我不知道我是在漂向海中
还是朝着岸边前进，
还是朝着岸边前进，
07:46
and all I could really make out
was the faint sound of seagulls
was the faint sound of seagulls
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我能分清的就是隐约的海鸥的叫声
07:50
and crashing waves.
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和巨浪的拍打声。
07:52
Now, I knew this place had a reputation
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
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我知道这片海域因为沉船
和飞机失事而臭名昭著，
和飞机失事而臭名昭著，
07:57
and while I was out there floating,
I started to get a little bit nervous.
I started to get a little bit nervous.
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而此时我正在其中漂浮，
我开始感到一点紧张。
我开始感到一点紧张。
08:02
Actually, I was totally freaking out --
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实际上是，我已经完全吓坏了
08:04
(Laughter) -- and I was
borderline hypothermic,
borderline hypothermic,
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（笑声）而且我体温已经过低
08:08
and my friends eventually
had to help me out of the water.
had to help me out of the water.
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我的朋友们最终不得不
把我从水里救了出来
把我从水里救了出来
不知道我是不是当时有些神志不清
08:11
And I don't know if it was
delirium setting in or what,
delirium setting in or what,
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08:14
but they told me later
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但是他们后来告诉我
08:16
I had a smile on my face the entire time.
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那整个过程中我始终在微笑。
现在，正是这次旅行
08:22
Now, it was this trip
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08:24
and probably that exact experience
where I really began to feel
where I really began to feel
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可能正是这个经历让我开始
08:28
like every photograph was precious,
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认为每一张照片都是宝贵的，
08:32
because all of a sudden in that moment,
it was something I was forced to earn.
it was something I was forced to earn.
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因为在那些出乎意料的瞬间，
我都被迫获得了一些东西。
我都被迫获得了一些东西。
08:37
And I realized, all this shivering
had actually taught me something:
had actually taught me something:
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我意识到，
所有的这些颤抖教会我一些事情：
所有的这些颤抖教会我一些事情：
08:42
In life, there are no shortcuts to joy.
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在生命中，快乐没有捷径
08:47
Anything that is worth pursuing
is going to require us to suffer
is going to require us to suffer
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所有值得追求的东西都会让我们经受
08:50
just a little bit,
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一点点的磨难，
08:52
and that tiny bit of suffering
that I did for my photography,
that I did for my photography,
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我摄影中所经历的那一点点磨难，
08:56
it added a value to my work
that was so much more meaningful to me
that was so much more meaningful to me
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给我工作所增加的价值，对我来说
08:59
than just trying to fill
the pages of magazines.
the pages of magazines.
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比让照片刊登在杂志上
的几张版面更有意义。
的几张版面更有意义。
09:03
See, I gave a piece of myself
in these places,
in these places,
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我把自己的一部分献给了这些地方，
09:10
and what I walked away with
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我带走的却是
09:12
was a sense of fulfillment
I had always been searching for.
I had always been searching for.
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一种我一直在寻找的充实感。
09:18
So I look back at this photograph.
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所以当我回顾这张照片的时候。
09:21
It's easy to see frozen fingers
and cold wetsuits
and cold wetsuits
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很容易看到冻僵的手指和冰冷的潜水衣
09:26
and even the struggle
that it took just to get there,
that it took just to get there,
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甚至是为了到达那里所做的努力。
09:29
but most of all,
what I see is just joy.
what I see is just joy.
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但最重要的是，
我所看到的是纯粹地快乐。
我所看到的是纯粹地快乐。
09:33
Thank you so much.
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谢谢大家。
09:35
(Applause)
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（掌声）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Chris Burkard - Surf photographerChris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head.
Why you should listen
For most people, surfing evokes sunny sand and warm, blue water in tropical locales. In his book Distant Shores, self-taught photographer Chris Burkard detours to the coastlines of Norway, Iceland and Alaska, shooting surfers as they ride waves on icy beaches that have rarely been photographed -- let alone surfed.
Traveling to often dangerous extremes to discover unknown landscapes, Burkard composes images that transcend the simple action shots of action photography, placing nature at the center of his compositions.
Chris Burkard | Speaker | TED.com