ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Eddy Cartaya - Cave Explorer
A ranger at Deschutes National Forest in Oregon, Eddy Cartaya not only solves cave crimes -- he also explores the ever-changing system of caves within Mount Hood's Sandy Glacier.

Why you should listen

Much of Eddy Cartaya's life takes place in caves. A ranger at Deschutes National Forest in Oregon, in charge of law enforcement and investigations, he solves crimes that happen in caves. This can range from investigating the theft of lava formations that date back 6,000 years to tracking down a group of people who covered over ancient cave art with spray paint. 

Cartaya and his climbing partner, Brent McGregor, also explore the frozen, icy caves created in the Sandy Glacier as it slowly slides down Oregon's Mount Hood. In 2011, the pair identified and explored three caves which they named Snow Dragon, Pure Imagination and Frozen Minotaur. Together, the caves create 7,000 feet of passageway through the glacier. Experts think this may be the longest glacial cave system in the United States outside of Alaska.

More profile about the speaker
Eddy Cartaya | Speaker | TED.com
TEDYouth 2013

Eddy Cartaya: My glacier cave discoveries

艾迪‧卡塔亞: 我在冰河洞穴的新發現

Filmed:
711,731 views

「雪龍洞」、「幻境」、「冰封牛頭人身」--這些是艾迪‧卡塔亞(Eddy Cartaya)和他的登山夥伴布倫特‧馬格力格(Brent McGregor)為他們率先探勘3個洞穴取的名字。因為冰河上面的溫水和底下的暖流,奧勒岡州的珊帝冰河(Sandy Glacier)緩緩流下胡德山(Mount Hood)時,冰河內的洞穴和隧道每年都會改變。在一場 TEDYouth 的演講現場,卡塔亞先生帶我們進入這些冰塊浮現藍綠光暈,古老遺跡紛紛落下的魔幻之境。
- Cave Explorer
A ranger at Deschutes National Forest in Oregon, Eddy Cartaya not only solves cave crimes -- he also explores the ever-changing system of caves within Mount Hood's Sandy Glacier. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:12
So how many許多 of you have ever
been in a cave洞穴 before?
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你們當中有多少人曾入洞穴?
00:15
Okay, a few少數 of you.
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好!不算多!
00:16
When you think of a cave洞穴, most of you think
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想到洞穴,多數人想到的是
00:18
of a tunnel隧道 going through通過 solid固體 rock,
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貫穿堅石的隧道
00:20
and in fact事實, that's how most caves洞穴 are.
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多數的確是那樣没錯
00:22
Around this half of the country國家,
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我國東半部這帶
00:24
most of your caves洞穴 are made製作 of limestone石灰石.
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洞穴多是石灰岩構成
00:26
Back where I'm from, most of our
caves洞穴 are made製作 of lava岩漿 rock,
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但在我的故鄉,則是熔岩穴為主
00:29
because we have a lot of volcanoes火山 out there.
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因我們那有很多火山
00:30
But the caves洞穴 I want to share分享
with you today今天 are made製作
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不過今天我要介紹的洞穴
00:32
completely全然 of ice, specifically特別 glacier冰川 ice
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則完全是冰,精確地講是冰川
00:36
that's formed形成 in the side of the tallest最高 mountain
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由奥勒岡州最高峰胡德山(Mount Hood)
00:38
in the state of Oregon俄勒岡, called Mount安裝 Hood引擎罩.
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山側冰河形成
00:41
Now Mount安裝 Hood's胡德 only
one hour's小時 drive駕駛 from Portland波特蘭,
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此山舆奧勒岡州最大城波特蘭(Portland)
00:44
the largest最大 city in Oregon俄勒岡,
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僅有I小時車程的距離
00:45
where over two million百萬 people live生活.
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而該城人口超過200萬人
00:48
Now the most exciting扣人心弦 thing for a cave洞穴 explorer探險者
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不過最讓洞穴探險家興奮的
00:50
is to find a new cave洞穴
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是發掘新洞穴
00:51
and be the first human人的 to ever go into it.
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並成為第一個進去的人
00:54
The second第二 most exciting扣人心弦 thing for a cave洞穴 explorer探險者
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其次是
00:56
is to be the first one to make a map地圖 of a cave洞穴.
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成為首位繪製該洞穴地圖的人
00:58
Now these days, with so many許多 people hiking徒步旅行 around,
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近年來因附近總有許多人遠足
01:00
it's pretty漂亮 hard to find a new cave洞穴,
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已很難發現新洞穴了
01:02
so you can imagine想像 how excited興奮 we were
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所以你們應該可想見
01:04
to find three new caves洞穴
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發現3處新洞穴時,我們有多興奮
01:05
within sight視力 of Oregon's俄勒岡州 largest最大 city
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洞穴地點就在波特蘭最大城市的視野内
01:08
and realize實現 that they had never been explored探討
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而且當時尙未有人對這些洞穴進行探查
01:10
or mapped映射 before.
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或繪製地圖
01:11
It was kind of like being存在 an astronaut宇航員,
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這經驗有點像太空人
01:12
because we were getting得到 to
see things and go places地方
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因為我們去了無人踏足之處
01:15
that no one had ever seen看到 or gone走了 to before.
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見世人未見之景
01:18
So what is a glacier冰川?
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來談冰河到底是什麼吧
01:20
Well, those of you who have
ever seen看到 or touched感動 snow,
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在座見過或摸過雪的
01:22
you know that it's really light,
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都知道雪輕飄飄的
01:23
because it's just a bunch of tiny ice crystals晶體
clumped成群 together一起, and it's mostly大多 air空氣.
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因雪由許多小冰晶聚合而成且大多是氣體
01:27
If you squish果醬 a handful少數 of snow to make a snowball雪球,
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如果抓一把雪捏成雪球
01:29
it gets得到 really small, hard and dense稠密.
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雪球就會縮小、變硬且密實
01:31
Well, on a mountain like Hood引擎罩, where it snows下雪
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像胡德山這樣
01:33
over 20 feet a year,
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年降雪量逾20英尺
01:35
it crushes迷戀 the air空氣 out of it
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雪中的氣體被擠壓排出
01:37
and gradually逐漸 forms形式 it into hard blue藍色 ice.
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逐成藍色堅冰
01:40
Now each year, more and more ice
stacks up on top最佳 of it,
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年復一年,冰層越疊越多
01:43
and eventually終於 it gets得到 so heavy
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而冰的重量也越來越重
01:45
that it starts啟動 to slide滑動 down the mountain
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最終在本身重量作用下
01:47
under its own擁有 weight重量,
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冰層開始沿著山體向下滑動
01:48
forming成型 a slow-moving緩慢移動 river of ice.
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形成一條流速緩慢的由冰構成的河
01:50
When ice packed打包 like that starts啟動 to move移動,
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像這些疊起來的冰開始移動時
01:53
we call it a glacier冰川, and we give it a name名稱.
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我們稱之為冰河,我們也為它取名字
01:55
The name名稱 of the glacier冰川 these caves洞穴 are formed形成 in
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形成這些洞穴的冰河
01:57
is the Sandy Glacier冰川.
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叫做珊帝冰河(Sandy Glacier)
01:58
Now each year, as new snow lands土地 on the glacier冰川,
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每年都有新的雪落在冰河上
02:02
it melts熔體 in the summer夏季 sun太陽,
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在夏日陽光照射下融化
02:03
and it forms形式 little rivers河流 of water
on the flow along沿 the ice,
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沿冰形成涓涓細流
02:06
and they start開始 to melt熔化 and bore
their way down through通過 the glacier冰川,
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順著冰河,支流融冰陷落
02:09
forming成型 big networks網絡 of caves洞穴,
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形成廣袤的洞穴網絡
02:11
sometimes有時 going all the way down
to the underlying底層 bedrock基岩.
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有時可直探冰河岩床
02:14
Now the crazy thing about glacier冰川 caves洞穴
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冰河洞穴最特殊之處
02:16
is that each year, new tunnels隧道 form形成.
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就是每年都有新的隧道生成
02:20
Different不同 waterfalls瀑布 pop流行的 up or move移動 around
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洞穴中不時有瀑布突然出現
02:22
from place地點 to place地點 inside the cave洞穴.
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或變换位置
02:24
Warm water from the top最佳 of the ice
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溫暖的水流自冰層頂部
02:26
is boring無聊 its way down,
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鑿穿而下
02:27
and warm air空氣 from below下面 the mountain
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而山脈底層溫暖的空氣
02:29
actually其實 rises上升 up, gets得到 into the cave洞穴,
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順勢而上吹入洞穴
02:31
and melts熔體 the ceilings天花板 back taller and taller.
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將洞頂的冰層削薄
02:34
But the weirdest最奇怪的 thing about glacier冰川 caves洞穴
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不過冰河洞穴最詭異之處
02:36
is that the entire整個 cave洞穴 is moving移動,
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是整個洞穴都在移位
02:38
because it's formed形成 inside a block of ice
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這是因為洞穴是在一塊
02:40
the size尺寸 of a small city
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像小城市那麼大的冰中形成的
02:42
that's slowly慢慢地 sliding滑動 down the mountain.
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然後緩慢地滑下山
02:44
Now this is Brent黑雁 McGregor麥格雷戈,
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這是布倫特.馬格力格(Brent McGregor)
02:46
my cave洞穴 exploration勘探 partner夥伴.
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他是我的洞穴探險伙伴
02:48
He and I have both been exploring探索 caves洞穴 a long time
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我們探勘洞穴的資歷都很深
02:51
and we've我們已經 been climbing攀登 mountains a long time,
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登山方面也是
02:53
but neither也不 one of us had ever really
explored探討 a glacier冰川 cave洞穴 before.
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不過當時我們都缺乏
冰河洞穴的探險經驗
02:56
Back in 2011, Brent黑雁 saw a YouTubeYouTube的 video視頻
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2011年時,布倫特在YouTube看到
02:59
of a couple一對 of hikers遠足 that stumbled迷迷糊糊 across橫過
the entrance入口 to one of these caves洞穴.
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一群登山者意外發現冰河洞穴的影片
03:02
There were no GPS全球定位系統 coordinates坐標 for it,
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當時沒有GPS定位資料
03:04
and all we knew知道 was that it was somewhere某處
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我們只知道那是
03:06
out on the Sandy Glacier冰川.
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珊帝冰河的某個地方
03:08
So in July七月 of that year, we went out on the glacier冰川,
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所以那年7月便前往珊帝冰河
03:10
and we found發現 a big crack裂紋 in the ice.
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在那發現一條巨大的裂缝
03:12
We had to build建立 snow and ice anchors
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我們得安装冰錨,綁上繩索
03:14
so that we could tie領帶 off ropes繩索
and rappel登山運動 down into the hole.
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以垂降的方式進洞
03:18
This is me looking into the entrance入口 crevasse裂縫.
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這張照片是我從裂縫口往內看
03:20
At the end結束 of this hole, we found發現 a huge巨大 tunnel隧道
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我們在洞底發現一條巨大隧道
03:23
going right up the mountain
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從重達數千噸的冰河冰層下
03:24
underneath thousands數千 of tons of glacier冰川 ice.
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穿山而上
03:27
We followed其次 this cave洞穴 back for about a half mile英里
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當時我們沿著洞穴往內走半英里
03:29
until直到 it came來了 to an end結束,
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直到一處盡頭
03:31
and then with the help of our survey調查 tools工具
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之後借助探測工具
03:33
we made製作 a three-dimensional三維 map地圖 of the cave洞穴
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讓我們得以在回程路上
03:35
on our way back out.
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繪出一張該洞穴的立體地圖
03:37
So how do you map地圖 a cave洞穴?
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如何繪製洞穴地圖呢?
03:39
Well, cave洞穴 maps地圖 aren't like trail落後 maps地圖 or road maps地圖
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有別於登山路徑或道路地圖,洞穴地圖
03:41
because they have pits and holes
going to overlapping重疊 levels水平.
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在於同一水平面上有坑道交疊
03:45
To make a cave洞穴 map地圖, you have to set up
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為了製作洞穴地圖,在洞内
03:46
survey調查 stations every一切 few少數 feet inside the cave洞穴,
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每隔幾英尺就要設置測量站
03:49
and you use a laser激光 to measure測量
the distance距離 between之間 those stations.
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再以雷射丈量站間距離總長
03:52
Then you use a compass羅盤 and an inclinometer測斜儀
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然後再以羅盤和測斜儀
03:55
to measure測量 the direction方向 the cave洞穴 is headed當家
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測量洞穴走向
03:57
and measure測量 the slope of the floor地板 and the ceilings天花板.
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地面和天花板的坡度
03:59
Now those of you taking服用 trigonometry三角,
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你們所學的三角函數
04:01
that particular特定 type類型 of math數學 is very useful有用
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那種數學對地圖繪製來說
04:03
for making製造 maps地圖 like this
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非常實用
04:05
because it allows允許 you to measure測量
heights高度 and distances距離
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因為不用在場
04:07
without actually其實 having to go there.
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就可測得高度和距離
04:09
In fact事實, the more I mapped映射 and studied研究 caves洞穴,
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說真的,隨著畫過地圖研究的洞穴越來越多
04:11
the more useful有用 I found發現 all that math數學
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我越發現作學生時非常討厭的
04:13
that I originally本來 hated in school學校 to be.
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那些數學其實很實用
04:16
So when you're doneDONE surveying測量學,
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當地形調查告一段落
04:18
you take all this data數據 and
you punch沖床 it into a computer電腦
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取得資料輸入電腦後
04:20
and you find someone有人 that can draw really well,
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找個繪圖高手
04:23
and you have them draft草案 up a map地圖
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讓他們繪製
04:24
that looks容貌 something like this,
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像這樣的草圖
04:26
and it'll它會 show顯示 you both a
bird's-eye鳥瞰 view視圖 of the passage通道
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就有通道的俯視圖
04:29
as well as a profile輪廓 view視圖 of the passage通道,
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還有剖面圖了
04:31
kind of like an ant螞蟻 farm農場 view視圖.
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看起來像蟻穴剖面圖
04:33
We named命名 this cave洞穴 Snow Dragon Cave洞穴
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我們把這個洞穴叫做雪龍洞
04:35
because it was like a big dragon
sleeping睡眠 under the snow.
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因它來就像一條沉眠雪下的巨龍
04:38
Now later後來 this summer夏季, as more
snow melted融化了 off the glacier冰川,
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今夏稍晚積雪消融時
04:41
we found發現 more caves洞穴, and we realized實現
they were all connected連接的.
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我們發現更多洞穴都彼此相通
04:44
Not long after we mapped映射 Snow Dragon,
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就在我們繪製雪龍洞地圖後不久
04:47
Brent黑雁 discovered發現 this new cave洞穴 not very far away.
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布蘭特在該地附近發現新洞穴
04:50
The inside of it was coated with ice,
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其內壁覆蓋著冰
04:52
so we had to wear穿 big spikes釘鞋
on our feet called crampons冰爪
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所以我們得穿上叫「冰爪」的釘鞋
04:55
so we could walk步行 around without slipping滑倒.
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走動時才不致打滑
04:57
This cave洞穴 was amazing驚人.
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這洞穴很奇妙!
04:59
The ice in the ceiling天花板 was glowing泛著 blue藍色 anad一個廣告 green綠色
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天花板的覆冰散發藍綠光暈
05:01
because the sunlight陽光 from far above以上
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因為陽光從遠處上方射入
05:03
was shining閃亮的 through通過 the ice and lighting燈光 it all up.
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光線穿透並照亮冰層
05:06
And we couldn't不能 understand理解 why this cave洞穴
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但我們當時不能理解
05:08
was so much colder更冷 than Snow Dragon
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為何這洞穴比雪龍洞還冷呢?
05:09
until直到 we got to the end結束 and we found發現 out why.
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直到洞底我們才發現原因
05:12
There was a huge巨大 pit or shaft called a moulin冰臼
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有一條通稱「冰臼」的巨型坎井從那兒
05:15
going 130 feet straight直行 up
to the surface表面 of the glacier冰川.
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筆直通往上方130英尺外的冰河表面
05:19
Cold air空氣 from the top最佳 of the mountain
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山頂的冷空氣就從冰臼傾瀉而下
05:21
was flowing流動 down this hole
and blasting爆破 through通過 the cave洞穴,
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猛烈地吹進來
05:23
freezing冷凍 everything inside of it.
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凍結洞內的一切
05:26
And we were so excited興奮 about finding發現 this new pit,
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發現冰臼令我們非常振奮
05:28
we actually其實 came來了 back in January一月 the following以下 year
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隔年一月就重返故地
05:30
so we could be the first ones那些 to explore探索 it.
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以便搶先探索
05:33
It was so cold outside,
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洞外冷得要命
05:34
we actually其實 had to sleep睡覺 inside the cave洞穴.
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我們只得睡在洞裡
05:37
There's our camp on the left side
of this entrance入口 room房間.
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洞口左邊就是我們當時的營地
05:40
The next下一個 morning早上, we climbed爬上 out of the cave洞穴
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次日早晨我們爬出洞穴
05:43
and hiked上調 all the way to the top最佳 of the glacier冰川,
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一口氣攻上冰河頂端
05:45
where we finally最後 rigged非法操縱的 and rappelled繞繩下降 this pit
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當我們終於安好線索,便從那垂降
05:47
for the very first time.
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那是我們首次進洞
05:49
Brent黑雁 named命名 this cave洞穴 Pure Imagination想像力,
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布蘭特給這個洞起名為「幻境」
05:51
I think because the beautiful美麗 sights景點 we saw in there
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我想這是因為當時我們所見的美景
05:53
were beyond what we could have ever imagined想像.
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已經超乎想像
05:56
So besides除了 really cool ice,
what else其他 is inside these caves洞穴?
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那冰河洞穴裡
除了酷炫的冰,還有什麼呢?
05:59
Well not too much lives生活 in them
because they're so cold
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因嚴寒,洞內生物不多
06:01
and the entrance入口 is actually其實 covered覆蓋 up with snow
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加上一年有八個月
06:03
for about eight months個月 of the year.
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洞口都是冰封的
06:05
But there are some really cool things in there.
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裡面仍有許多令人驚艷的事物
06:07
There's weird奇怪的 bacteria living活的 in the water
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像水中就有奇特的細菌
06:09
that actually其實 eat and digest消化 rocks岩石
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以啃食消化岩石
06:12
to make their own擁有 food餐飲
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作為食物來源
06:13
to live生活 under this ice.
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牠們就活在這片冰河下
06:15
In fact事實, this past過去 summer夏季, scientists科學家們 collected
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今夏科學家
06:17
samples樣本 of water and ice
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還對當地的水和冰進行抽樣
06:19
specifically特別 to see if things called extremophiles極端,
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好觀察這些叫作「嗜極生物」
06:22
tiny lifeforms生命形式 that are evolved進化
to live生活 in completely全然 hostile敵對 conditions條件,
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為了適應極劣環境下而演化的微生物
06:25
might威力 be living活的 under the ice,
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真能在冰河底下生存
06:27
kind of like what they hope希望 to find
on the polar極性 icecaps冰蓋 of Mars火星 someday日後.
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就好比科學家也希望有朝一日
能在火星的冰帽上有類似發現
06:30
Another另一個 really cool things is that,
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還有一件事很奇特
06:32
as seeds種子 and birds鳥類 land土地 on
the surface表面 of the glacier冰川 and die,
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當種子和鳥類降落冰河表面死後
06:35
they get buried隱藏 in the snow
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因有冰雪覆蓋
06:37
and gradually逐漸 become成為 part部分 of the glacier冰川,
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逐成冰河的一部分
06:39
sinking下沉 deeper更深 and deeper更深 into the ice.
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在冰裡越陷越深
06:41
As these caves洞穴 form形成 and melt熔化
their way up into the ice,
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就在冰河洞穴成型
並消融頂部冰層的時候
06:44
they make these artifacts文物 rain down from the ceiling天花板
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讓這些遺跡紛紛掉落在洞穴地上
06:47
and fall秋季 onto the cave洞穴 floor地板,
where we end結束 up finding發現 them.
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最後在那裡被我們找到
06:49
For example, this is a noble高貴 fir冷杉 seed種子 we found發現.
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像這張照片中我們找到的高冷杉種子
06:52
It's been frozen凍結的 in the ice for over 100 years年份,
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被冰封了100多年
06:55
and it's just now starting開始 to sprout發芽.
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現在才開始發芽
06:57
This mallard duck feather羽毛
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這根野鴨羽毛是在雪龍洞
06:59
was found發現 over 1,800 feet
in the back of Snow Dragon Cave洞穴.
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1,800多英尺的深處找到的
07:02
This duck died死亡 on the surface表面
of the glacier冰川 long, long ago,
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很久以前,這隻鴨子死在冰河表面
07:05
and its feathers羽毛 have finally最後 made製作 it
down through通過 over 100 feet of ice
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羽毛在冰層中下沉了100英尺
07:09
before falling落下 inside the cave洞穴.
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最後掉進洞裡
07:11
And this beautiful美麗 quartz石英 crystal水晶
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這塊美不勝收的石英結晶
07:13
was also found發現 in the back of Snow Dragon.
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也是在雪龍洞深處尋獲
07:15
Even now, Brent黑雁 and I find it hard to believe
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即使現在,布蘭特和我仍難以置信
07:17
that all these discoveries發現 were
essentially實質上 in our own擁有 backyard後院,
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這些東西都是在我們附近發現的
07:20
hidden away, just waiting等候 to be found發現.
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就藏在那,只等著被發現
07:23
Like I said earlier, the idea理念 of discovering發現
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就像剛提到的
07:25
in this busy world世界 we live生活 in
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想在我們所處的繁忙世界裡有所發現
07:27
kind of seems似乎 like something
you can only do with space空間 travel旅行 now,
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好像只有太空旅行辦得到
07:30
but that's not true真正.
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但並非如此
07:31
Every一切 year, new caves洞穴 get discovered發現
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每年都發現
07:33
that no one has ever been in before.
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無人進入過的新洞穴
07:35
So it's actually其實 not too late晚了 for one of you
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因此對在座的任何一位來說
07:37
to become成為 a discoverer發現者 yourself你自己.
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你們都能成為發現者
07:39
You just have to be willing願意 to look
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只要你願意到人跡罕至的地方
07:41
and go where people don't often經常 go
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走走看看
07:44
and focus焦點 your eyes眼睛 and your mind心神
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專注你的視線與思緒
07:46
to recognize認識 the discovery發現 when you see it,
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這樣尋覓之物出現時才能一下認出
07:48
because it might威力 be in your own擁有 backyard後院.
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因這些東西可能近在咫尺
07:50
Thank you very much.
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感謝大家!
07:52
(Applause掌聲)
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(掌聲)
Translated by Samson Zhong
Reviewed by Jen-Huei Wu

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Eddy Cartaya - Cave Explorer
A ranger at Deschutes National Forest in Oregon, Eddy Cartaya not only solves cave crimes -- he also explores the ever-changing system of caves within Mount Hood's Sandy Glacier.

Why you should listen

Much of Eddy Cartaya's life takes place in caves. A ranger at Deschutes National Forest in Oregon, in charge of law enforcement and investigations, he solves crimes that happen in caves. This can range from investigating the theft of lava formations that date back 6,000 years to tracking down a group of people who covered over ancient cave art with spray paint. 

Cartaya and his climbing partner, Brent McGregor, also explore the frozen, icy caves created in the Sandy Glacier as it slowly slides down Oregon's Mount Hood. In 2011, the pair identified and explored three caves which they named Snow Dragon, Pure Imagination and Frozen Minotaur. Together, the caves create 7,000 feet of passageway through the glacier. Experts think this may be the longest glacial cave system in the United States outside of Alaska.

More profile about the speaker
Eddy Cartaya | Speaker | TED.com