ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Jennifer 8. Lee - Reporter
The possessor of the best byline in the New York Times, Jennifer 8. Lee reports on culture and city life. Her latest book is The Fortune Cookie Chronicles.

Why you should listen

Jennifer 8. Lee is a reporter for the New York Times, starting with the paper as a tech writer for the Circuits section. She's now a metropolitan reporter for the paper, turning in sparkling and intricately reported stories of city life. NPR called her a "conceptual scoop" artist -- finding and getting details on new lifestyle trends that we all want to talk about.

Her fascination with American Chinese food led her to research and write The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, in which she solves some of the enduring mysteries around this indigenous cuisine, including such questions as: "Who is General Tso and why are we eating his chicken?" and "Why do Jews eat Chinese food on Christmas?"

 

More profile about the speaker
Jennifer 8. Lee | Speaker | TED.com
Taste3 2008

Jennifer 8. Lee: The hunt for General Tso

李競:左宗棠雞尋根記

Filmed:
1,520,028 views

記者李競(英文名珍妮佛‧8 李)談她追蹤大家所熟悉的中式美國菜的根源,探索中美兩個非常有趣的文化交會而形成新型態料理時,不為人知的過程。
- Reporter
The possessor of the best byline in the New York Times, Jennifer 8. Lee reports on culture and city life. Her latest book is The Fortune Cookie Chronicles. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:16
There are more Chinese中文 restaurants餐館 in this country國家
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在這個國家(美國),
00:19
than McDonald's麥當勞, Burger漢堡包 King國王, Kentucky肯塔基 Fried油炸 Chicken and Wendy's溫迪, combined結合 --
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中國餐館的數量,比麥當勞、漢堡王、肯德基、和溫蒂漢堡的總和還要多。
00:23
40,000, actually其實.
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實際的數目約為4萬家。
00:24
Chinese中文 restaurants餐館 have played發揮 an important重要 role角色 in American美國 history歷史,
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中國餐館在美國歷史上一向舉足輕重,
00:27
as a matter of fact事實.
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事實上,
00:28
The Cuban古巴 missile導彈 crisis危機 was resolved解決
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古巴的飛彈危機,
00:30
in a Chinese中文 restaurant餐廳
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就是在位於華盛頓D.C.的中國餐廳
00:31
called Yenching燕京 Palace in Washington華盛頓, D.C.,
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北宮解決的。
00:33
which哪一個 unfortunately不幸 is closed關閉 now,
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遺憾的是,這家餐館現在已經關門大吉,
00:35
and about to be turned轉身 into Walgreen's沃爾格林.
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原址將改建成大型連鎖藥局沃爾格林。
00:37
And the house that John約翰 Wilkes威爾克斯 Booth
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而約翰‧威爾克斯‧布思
00:38
planned計劃 the assassination暗殺 of Abraham亞伯拉罕 Lincoln林肯
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構思暗殺林肯總統計畫的屋子
00:40
is actually其實 also now a Chinese中文 restaurant餐廳
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現在也是家中國餐館
00:43
called Wok炒鍋 'n'N Roll, on H Street in Washington華盛頓.
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名為「熱炒搖滾」,就位在華盛頓D.C.的街上。
00:46
(Laughter笑聲)
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(眾人笑)
00:50
And it's not completely全然 gratuitous免費的,
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這店名也不是取得完全沒道理啦!
00:51
because wok炒鍋 and roll --
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因為店裡有熱炒跟春捲,
00:52
Chinese中文 food餐飲 and Japanese日本 foods食品,
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又有中國菜跟日本菜,
00:54
so it kind of works作品 out.
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所以是行得通的。
00:55
And Americans美國人 love their Chinese中文 food餐飲 so much
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美國人是如此熱愛中國菜,
00:58
they've他們已經 actually其實 brought it into space空間.
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連上太空都要帶著它。
00:59
NASANASA, for example, serves供應 thermal-stabilized熱穩定化的 sweet-and-sour糖醋 pork豬肉
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美國太空總署為太空人準備的菜單中,
01:03
on its shuttle穿梭 menu菜單 for its astronauts宇航員.
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就有經高溫消菌的糖醋排骨以供選擇。
01:06
So, let me present當下 the question to you:
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嗯,我來問個問題:
01:09
If our benchmark基準 for Americanness美國性 is apple蘋果 pie餡餅,
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如果蘋果派是美國食物的典型,
01:11
you should ask yourself你自己,
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那麼你們應該曾經比較過,
01:12
how often經常 do you eat apple蘋果 pie餡餅,
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自己吃蘋果派的頻率,
01:13
versus how often經常 do you eat Chinese中文 food餐飲. Right?
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跟吃中國菜的頻率哪個比較高?對吧?
01:16
(Laughter笑聲)
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(眾人笑)
01:21
And if you think about it,
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再者,如果你們曾經想過這件事,
01:22
a lot of the foods食品 that you think of
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便會發現,很多你們、
01:25
or we think of or Americans美國人 think of as Chinese中文 food餐飲
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或我們、甚至是美國人認知裡的中國菜,
01:28
are barely僅僅 recognizable識別 to Chinese中文,
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中國人其實不太認得。
01:30
for example: beef牛肉 with broccoli西蘭花, egg rolls勞斯萊斯, General一般 Tso's左宗棠 Chicken,
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比方說:花椰菜炒牛肉、炸春捲、左宗棠雞、
01:34
fortune幸運 cookies餅乾, chop suey雜碎, the take-out取出 boxes盒子.
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幸運籤餅、雜碎、還有外帶用的紙盒。
01:37
For example, I took a whole整個 bunch of fortune幸運 cookies餅乾 back to China中國,
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這裡有個例子:我帶了一整包的幸運籤餅回中國去,
01:41
gave them to Chinese中文 to see how they would react應對.
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觀察他們在看到幸運籤餅時的反應。
01:42
What is this?
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這是什麼?
01:44
Should I try it?
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我能嚐嚐看嗎?
01:46
Try it!
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嚐一嚐!
01:51
What is it called?
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這叫什麼名字啊?
01:53
Fortune幸運 cookie曲奇餅.
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幸運籤餅。
01:58
There's a piece of paper inside!
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還有一張紙啊!
02:00
(Laughter笑聲)
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(眾人笑)
02:05
What is this?
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這是啥?
02:07
You've won韓元 a prize!
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你中獎了!
02:12
What is this?
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這是什麼?
02:15
It's a fortune幸運!
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是一個......幸運!
02:18
Tasty可口!
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挺好吃的!
02:22
So, where are they from?
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那麼,幸運籤餅是打哪來的?
02:23
The short answer回答 is, actually其實, they're from Japan日本.
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答案是:它們其實來自日本。
02:25
And in Kyoto京都, outside,
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在京都的郊區,
02:27
there are still small family-run家庭經營的 bakeries麵包店
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有個小小的家庭式糕餅點
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that make fortune幸運 cookies餅乾,
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仍照著100年前的方式,
02:31
as they did over 100 years年份 ago,
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製作幸運籤餅。
02:33
30 years年份 before fortune幸運 cookies餅乾 were introduced介紹 in the United聯合的 States狀態.
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那是幸運籤餅被引進美國30年前的事了。
02:37
If you see them side by side,
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如果你比較日本和美國的籤餅,
02:39
there's yellow黃色 and brown棕色.
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會發現日本籤餅是褐色,而美國的是黃色;
02:41
Theirs他們的 are actually其實 flavored有味 with miso味噌 and sesame芝麻 paste,
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而日式籤餅以味噌跟芝麻醬調味,
02:43
so they're not as sweet as our version.
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也就是說,日式籤餅並沒有美式的那麼甜。
02:45
So, how did they get to the United聯合的 States狀態?
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那麼,幸運籤餅是怎麼來到美國的?
02:47
Well, the short answer回答 is, the Japanese日本 immigrants移民 came來了 over,
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嗯,答案是,隨著日本移民來到美國,
02:50
and a bunch of the bakers麵包師 introduced介紹 them --
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一些糕餅師傅把幸運籤餅帶過來,
02:52
including包含 at least最小 one in Los洛杉磯 Angeles洛杉磯,
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其中至少有一家店在洛杉磯;
02:54
and one here in San Francisco弗朗西斯科
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而這家在舊金山的撒特街和巴禪南街街角,
02:56
called Benkyo-doBenkyo-DO, which哪一個 is on the corner of Sutter薩特 and Buchanan布坎南.
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名叫勉強堂的餅店,
02:58
They back then, actually其實,
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當時,
03:00
made製作 fortune幸運 cookies餅乾 using運用 very much the similar類似 kind of irons鐵桿
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他們所用來製作幸運籤餅的模具,
03:04
that we saw back in Kyoto京都.
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和京都人所使用的非常相似。
03:05
So, the interesting有趣 question is,
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欸,好玩的問題來了:
03:07
how do you go from fortune幸運 cookies餅乾 being存在 something that is Japanese日本
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幸運籤餅是如何從日本人的點心,
03:10
to being存在 something that is Chinese中文?
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變成中國人的?
03:12
Well, the short answer回答 is,
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這個嘛,簡單回答這個問題,
03:13
we locked鎖定 up all the Japanese日本 during World世界 War戰爭 IIII,
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美國人在二次世界大戰時,把境內所有日本移民關起來,
03:15
including包含 those that made製作 fortune幸運 cookies餅乾,
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包括那些做幸運籤餅的師傅。
03:17
so that's the time when the Chinese中文 moved移動 in,
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這麼一來,中國移民有機可趁:
03:18
kind of saw a market市場 opportunity機會 and took over.
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他們注意到幸運籤餅的商機,將其佔為己有。
03:21
(Laughter笑聲)
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(眾人笑)
03:23
So, fortune幸運 cookies餅乾:
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所以,幸運籤餅啊,
03:24
invented發明 by the Japanese日本,
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是日本人發明,
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popularized推廣 by the Chinese中文,
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中國人發揚光大,
03:26
but ultimately最終 consumed消費 by Americans美國人.
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但最後卻是由美國人消費的。
03:28
They are more American美國 than anything else其他.
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它們其實是再美國不過的點心。
03:30
Another另一個 one of my favorite喜愛 dishes碗碟:
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另外一道我喜歡的料理:
03:32
General一般 Tso's左宗棠 Chicken --
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左宗棠雞。
03:33
which哪一個, by the way, in the US Naval Academy學院
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這菜在美國海軍官校,
03:34
is called Admiral上將 Tso's左宗棠 Chicken.
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又被叫做左上將雞。
03:37
I love this dish.
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我愛這道菜。
03:39
The original原版的 name名稱 in my book was actually其實 called
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我書裡有個篇章原來就叫做:
03:40
The Long March遊行 of General一般 Tso左宗棠,
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左將軍的長征。
03:42
and he has marched遊行 very far indeed確實,
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左宗棠雞的確非常深入美國民間,
03:43
because he is sweet, he is fried油炸, and he is chicken --
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因為這菜是甜的、又得油炸、還是用雞做的,
03:46
all things that Americans美國人 love.
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一整個美國人愛的東西。
03:48
(Laughter笑聲)
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(眾人笑)
03:50
He has marched遊行 so far, actually其實,
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事實上,因為這菜改變太大,
03:51
that the chef廚師 who originally本來 invented發明 the dish
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以至於最早發明左宗棠雞的廚師,
03:54
doesn't recognize認識 it; he's kind of horrified嚇壞了.
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不但認不得,還被嚇到了!
04:07
He's in Taiwan台灣 right now.
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他現在住在台灣,
04:09
He's retired退休, deaf and plays播放 a lot of Mahjong麻將.
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過著退休的生活,失聰,每天摸好幾個八圈。
04:11
So, he -- after this I showed顯示 him,
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呃,他看到我秀給他左宗棠雞的照片,
04:13
he got up,
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站了起來,
04:14
and he's like, "MominqimiaoMominqimiao,"
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然後說:「莫名其妙!」
04:16
which哪一個 means手段, "This is all nonsense廢話,"
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意思就是:這一點道理都沒有!
04:17
and goes back to play his Mahjong麻將 game遊戲 during the afternoon下午.
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接著就回去繼續打他下午場的麻將了。
04:20
So, another另一個 dish. One of my favorites最愛. Beef牛肉 with broccoli西蘭花.
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接下來,我的另一道最愛:花椰菜炒牛肉。
04:24
Broccoli西蘭花 is not a Chinese中文 vegetable蔬菜;
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花椰菜並不是在中國土生土長的蔬菜,
04:28
in fact事實, it is originally本來 an Italian意大利 vegetable蔬菜.
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事實上,它一開始生長在義大利,
04:31
It was introduced介紹 into the United聯合的 States狀態 in the 1800s,
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在19世紀被引進美國,
04:33
but became成為 popularized推廣 in the 1920s and the 1930s.
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直到1920到30年代才開始受到人們喜愛。
04:36
In fact事實, the Chinese中文 had their own擁有 version of broccoli西蘭花,
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其實,中國人有他們自己的花椰菜,
04:38
which哪一個 is called Chinese中文 broccoli西蘭花,
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也就是芥蘭菜。
04:39
but right now, what -- they've他們已經 now discovered發現 American美國 broccoli西蘭花,
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不過現在,他們發現了美國的花椰菜後,
04:43
and are importing輸入 it as a, sort分類 of, exotic異國情調 delicacy美味.
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開始進口,視之為帶著異國風味的食物。
04:46
I guarantee保證 you, General一般 Tso左宗棠 never saw a stalk of broccoli西蘭花 in his life --
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我向妳們保證,左宗棠終其一生連花椰菜的梗都沒看過。
04:50
and indeed確實, that actually其實 was a picture圖片 of General一般 Tso左宗棠.
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你們現在看到的,就是左宗棠的畫像。
04:53
I went to his home town.
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我去過他的老家,
04:54
This is a billboard廣告牌 that says:
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在那裏有個看板上寫著:
04:55
"Welcome歡迎 to the birthplace出生地 of General一般 Tso左宗棠."
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「歡迎來到清代名臣左宗棠的故里」。
04:57
And I went looking for chicken.
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我在當地找尋雞的蹤影,
04:58
Finally最後 found發現 a cow --
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結果找到一頭牛,
04:59
and did find chicken.
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不過我最後還是有找到雞群,
05:03
Believe it or not,
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無論你們相信與否,
05:04
these guys were actually其實 crossing路口 the road.
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牠們當時正在過馬路,
05:06
And --
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然後......
05:07
(Laughter笑聲)
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(眾人笑)
05:10
-- I actually其實 found發現 a whole整個 bunch of General一般 Tso's左宗棠 relatives親戚們
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我也有找到不少左宗棠的後人,
05:13
who are still in the little town.
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他們仍住在那個小城。
05:14
This guy is now five generations removed去除 from the General一般;
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這人是左宗棠的第五代孫。
05:16
this guy is about seven.
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這小孩大概七歲,
05:18
Showed顯示 them all the pictures圖片 of General一般 Tso左宗棠 Chicken that I showed顯示 you,
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我給他們看左宗棠雞的照片,
05:21
and they're like, we don't know this dish.
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他們一臉「我不知道這是什麼」的表情,
05:23
And then they're like, is this Chinese中文 food餐飲?
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跟著問:「這是中國菜嗎?」
05:24
Because it doesn't look like Chinese中文 food餐飲 to them.
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因為對他們來說,這一點都不像中國菜啊!
05:27
But they weren't kind of surprised詫異
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但他們一點都不感到驚訝。
05:29
I traveled旅行 around the world世界
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我走遍世界各地,
05:30
to visit訪問 them,
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就是為了見他們。
05:32
because in their eyes眼睛 he is, after all,
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因為在他們眼裡,
05:34
a famous著名 Qing dynasty王朝 military軍事 hero英雄.
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左宗棠應該是有名的清朝將軍。
05:35
He played發揮 an important重要 role角色 in the Taiping太平 rebellion暴動,
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他在太平天國之亂裡扮演了重要角色。
05:37
which哪一個 was a war戰爭 started開始 by a guy
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太平天國是由一個,
05:39
who thought he was the son兒子 of God
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認為自己是神的兒子、
05:40
and the baby寶寶 brother哥哥 of Jesus耶穌 Christ基督.
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耶穌基督的弟弟的男人發起的。
05:41
And caused造成 the war戰爭 that killed殺害 20 million百萬 people --
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約有2億人死於這場戰爭,
05:44
still the deadliest致命 civil國內 war戰爭 in the world世界 to this day.
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到今日還是世界史上,死亡人數最多的內戰。
05:49
So, you know, I realized實現 when I was there,
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所以啊,到那兒時,我這才明白,
05:51
General一般 Tso左宗棠 is kind of a lot like Colonel陸軍上校 Sanders桑德斯 in America美國,
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左宗棠就像是肯德基的創始人桑德斯上校一樣,
05:54
in that he's known已知 for chicken and not war戰爭.
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在美國是以雞肉料理聞名,而非戰爭;
05:56
But in China中國, this guy's傢伙 actually其實 known已知
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但是在中國,這傢伙其實
05:58
for war戰爭 and not chicken.
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是以戰爭而非雞肉聞名的啊!
06:00
But the granddaddy鼻祖
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不過,真要說起來,
06:01
of all the Chinese-American中國美國 dishes碗碟
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所有中式美國菜的老祖宗,
06:03
we probably大概 ought應該 to talk about
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應該是我們接著要談的
06:04
is chop suey雜碎,
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雜碎。
06:07
which哪一個 was introduced介紹
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這料理
06:08
around the turn of the 20th century世紀.
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大概是在20世紀初的時候出現的。
06:09
And according根據 to New York紐約 Times,
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根據紐約時報,
06:11
in 1904, there was an outbreak暴發 of Chinese中文 restaurants餐館 all over town,
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1904年,中國餐廳在紐約如雨後春筍般冒出,
06:14
and "the city has gone走了 'chop'劈 suey'雜碎“ mad."
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整個城市也為雜碎而瘋狂。
06:17
So it took about 30 years年份
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難怪一直要到大概30年後,
06:19
before the Americans美國人 realized實現 that,
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美國人才明白,
06:21
whoa, chop suey雜碎 is actually其實 not known已知 in China中國.
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「啥?中國人不知道『雜碎』這道菜?」
06:24
And as this article文章 points out,
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如同這篇文章所說,
06:25
"The average平均 native本地人 of any city in China中國
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「無論是中國哪一個城市裡的居民,
06:28
knows知道 nothing of chop suey雜碎."
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沒有一個人知道雜碎。」
06:30
You know, back then it was a way to show顯示
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你得知道,在那個時候,
06:32
that you were sophisticated複雜的 and cosmopolitan大都會:
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一個男人若想表現出自己受過良好教育,而不是個鄉巴佬,
06:33
if you were a guy and you wanted to impress a girl女孩,
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來取悅心儀的女孩,
06:35
you could take her out on a chop suey雜碎 date日期.
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可以在約會的時候帶她去吃雜碎。
06:37
I like to say
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我得說,
06:38
chop suey's雜碎的 the biggest最大 culinary烹飪 joke玩笑
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雜碎大概是,一個文化之於另外一個文化,
06:40
that one culture文化 has ever played發揮 on another另一個,
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所能開最大的飲食文化笑話了。
06:42
because chop suey雜碎,
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因為雜碎,
06:43
if you translate翻譯 into Chinese中文,
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翻譯成中文,
06:44
means手段 tsapTSAP sui, which哪一個, if you translate翻譯 back,
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就是「雜碎」;如果按字面翻譯成英文,
06:45
means手段 "odds可能性 and ends結束."
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就是「又雜又碎」。
06:46
So, these people are going around China中國 asking for chop suey雜碎,
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所以啊,如果你們在中國點炒雜碎,
06:50
which哪一個 is sort分類 of like a Japanese日本 guy
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就有點像是一個日本人,
06:52
coming未來 here and saying,
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來到美國,說:
06:53
I understand理解 you have a very popular流行 dish in your country國家
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「我聽說你們國家有道非常流行的料理,
06:55
called "leftovers殘羹剩飯," and it is particularly尤其 --
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叫做『剩菜』。嗯,這實在是......
06:58
(Laughter笑聲)
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(眾人笑)
07:00
-- right?
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對吧!
07:02
And not only that:
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還不只是這樣:
07:05
this dish is particularly尤其 popular流行
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雜碎在
07:07
after that holiday假日 you call Thanksgiving感恩.
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被你們稱做感恩節的假日,特別受歡迎!
07:09
(Laughter笑聲)
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(眾人笑)
07:10
So, why -- why and where --
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所以,
07:12
did chop suey雜碎 come from?
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雜碎是怎麼來的?從哪裡來?
07:13
Let's go back to mid-中-1800s
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事情可以追溯到19世紀中葉,
07:16
when the Chinese中文 first came來了 to America美國.
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第一批中國移民來到美國的時候。
07:18
Now back then, the Americans美國人
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那個時候,美國人
07:20
were not clamoring吵著 to eat Chinese中文 food餐飲.
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一點也不熱衷於吃中國菜。
07:21
In fact事實, they saw this people who landed登陸 at their shores海岸 as alien外僑.
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相反的,他們視這群初來乍到的人為外星人。
07:27
These people weren't eating dogs小狗 --
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就算這些人不吃狗,
07:28
they were eating cats --
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他們也吃貓,
07:29
and they weren't eating cats -- they were eating rats大鼠.
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就算他們不吃貓,他們也吃老鼠!
07:30
In fact事實, The New York紐約 Times, my esteemed尊敬 employer雇主,
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事實上,紐約時報,我敬愛的雇主,
07:33
in 1883 ran an article文章 that asked,
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在1883年刊出一篇文章問:
07:34
"Do Chinese中文 eat rats大鼠?"
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「中國人吃老鼠嗎?」
07:36
And not the most PC個人計算機 question to be asked today今天,
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這當然不是現今會問最「政治正確」的問題,
07:42
but if you kind of look at the popular流行 imagery意象 of the time,
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不過如果你試著用當時的美國人對中國人最常見的想像來看,
07:44
not so outlandish異乎尋常.
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這問題一點都不奇怪。
07:45
This is actually其實 a real真實 advertisement廣告 for rat poison
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這是一則真實的廣告,用來宣傳老鼠藥,
07:49
from the late晚了 1800s,
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出現在19世紀晚期。
07:51
and if you see, under the word "Clears" -- very small --
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如同你所看到的,在「清除」的下面,有一行非常小的字,
07:54
it says, "They must必須 go,"
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寫著:「他們得離開。」
07:55
which哪一個 refers not only to the rats大鼠,
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這並不只是針對老鼠,
07:56
but to the Chinese中文 in their midst中間,
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同時也針對被視為跟老鼠同一類的中國人。
07:58
because the way that the food餐飲 was perceived感知
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因為中國人吃食的方式,
08:01
was that these people who ate foods食品 different不同 from us
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跟我們美國人完全不同,
08:05
must必須 be different不同 from us.
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所以中國人一定跟美國人不一樣。
08:06
And another另一個 way that you saw, sort分類 of, this sort分類 of,
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除此之外,這類
08:08
this antipathy反感 towards the Chinese中文
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反對中國人的言詞,
08:09
is through通過 documents文件 like this.
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普遍存在於歷史紀錄中,一如這份,
08:10
This is actually其實 in the Library圖書館 of Congress國會;
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在美國國會圖書館裡找到的,
08:12
it is a pamphlet小冊子 published發表 by Samuel塞繆爾 Gompers龔帕斯,
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由山謬‧龔帕斯出版的小冊子,
08:14
hero英雄 of our American美國 labor勞動 movement運動,
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龔帕斯是美國勞工運動的英雄。
08:17
and it's called, "Some Reason原因 for Chinese中文 Exclusion排除:
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上面說,「排華的理由──
08:19
Meat versus Rice白飯: American美國 Manhood男子氣概 against反對 Asiatic亞洲人 CoolieismCoolieism:
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肉食與米食/美國人和亞洲廉價勞工
08:23
Which哪一個 shall survive生存?
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哪一個該留存下來?」
08:24
And it basically基本上 made製作 the argument論據
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這冊子以這樣的論點為基調:
08:27
that Chinese中文 men男人 who ate rice白飯
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吃米的中國人,
08:28
would necessarily一定 bring帶來 down the standard標準 of living活的
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必定會降低我們生活的水準,
08:30
for American美國 men男人 who ate meat.
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對吃肉的美國人來說,
08:32
And as a matter of fact事實, then,
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這樣的水準,
08:34
this is one of the reasons原因
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就是
08:35
why we must必須 exclude排除 them from this country國家
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我們必須將華人趨離這個國家的其中一個理由。
08:37
So, with sentiments情緒 like these,
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在這樣的情境下,
08:39
the Chinese中文 Exclusion排除 Act法案 was sort分類 of passed通過 between之間 1882 and 1902,
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美國於1882年和1902年間執行排華法案。
08:45
the only time in American美國 history歷史
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這是美國史上唯一一段時期,
08:47
when a group was specifically特別 excluded排除
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有一特定族群,
08:50
for its national國民 origin起源 or ethnicity種族.
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就只是因為他們的國籍或是種族,而被逐出美國。
08:52
So, in a way, because the Chinese中文 were attacked襲擊,
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所以,在某種程度上,被冒犯的中國人們,
08:55
chop suey雜碎 was created創建 as a defense防禦 mechanism機制.
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把雜碎的發明當做是防禦的手段。
08:58
Now, who came來了 up with the idea理念 of chop suey雜碎?
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現在我們來談談,是誰發明這道菜的?
09:00
There's a lot of different不同 mysteries奧秘, a lot of different不同 legends傳說,
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我找到許多關於雜碎的秘密跟傳說,
09:02
but of the ones那些 that I've found發現 that I thought was most interesting有趣
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其中有個我覺得最有趣的,
09:05
is this article文章 from 1904.
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出現在1904年的一篇文章裡,
09:06
A Chinese中文 guy named命名 Lem萊姆 Sen
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提到一個叫做連紳的中國人,
09:08
shows節目 up in Chinatown唐人街, New York紐約 City, and says,
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有天出現在紐約的中國城,說:
09:10
I want you guys all to stop making製造 chop suey雜碎,
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「希望你們這些傢伙不要再做雜碎了,
09:12
because I am the original原版的 creator創造者 and sole唯一 proprietor業主
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因為我才是雜碎的發明者,
09:14
of the dish known已知 as chop suey雜碎.
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也是唯一的擁有人。」
09:16
And the way that he tells告訴 it,
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根據他的說法,雜碎是這樣來的:
09:17
there was a guy,
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有這麼個人,
09:19
there was a famous著名 Chinese中文 diplomat外交官 that showed顯示 up,
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在有名的中國大使來到美國時,
09:22
and he was told to make a dish that looked看著 very popular流行
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要求他做道看起來很受歡迎,
09:24
and could, quote引用, "pass通過" as Chinese中文.
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而且能以「中國人也認可」的字眼宣傳的料理。
09:26
And as he said --
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他提到,
09:27
we would never print打印 this today今天 --
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嗯,如在今日,我們絕對不會做這樣的報導,
09:29
but basically基本上, the American美國 man has become成為 very rich豐富.
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但大致上就是,那個美國人後來變得非常富有。
09:33
Lem萊姆 Sen, who's誰是 this guy:
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連紳,也就是這個中國廚師,說:
09:34
I would have made製作 this money, too,
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「我也可以賺這麼多錢的,
09:35
but I've spent花費 all this time looking for the American美國 man
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可是我卻得花時間在找這個
09:37
who stole偷了 my recipe食譜.
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偷了我的食譜的美國人上。
09:38
Now I've come and found發現 him,
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今天我來到這裡,也找到他了,
09:39
and I want my recipe食譜 back
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想拿回我的食譜。
09:41
and I want everyone大家 to stop making製造 chop suey雜碎,
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我希望大家都不要再做炒雜碎了,
09:43
or pay工資 me for the right to do the same相同.
258
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要不然就得付我做這菜的權利金。」
09:44
So it was an early exercise行使
259
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也因此,這其實是一個早期的
09:46
of intellectual知識分子 property屬性 rights權利.
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保護智慧財產權的活動。
09:48
So the thing is,
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不過嘛,
09:49
this kind of idea理念 of Chinese-American中國美國 food餐飲
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這樣一道中式美國菜,
09:52
doesn't exist存在 only in America美國.
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並不僅只在美國而已。
09:55
In fact事實, if you think about it,
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事實上,你會發現,
09:56
Chinese中文 food餐飲 is the most pervasive無處不在 food餐飲 on the planet行星,
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中國菜是這個世界上滲透力最強的菜系,
09:58
served提供服務 on all seven continents大陸, even Antarctica南極洲,
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在七大洲,包括南極都可以發現其蹤影。
10:01
because Monday星期一 night is Chinese中文 food餐飲 night at McMurdo麥克默多 Station,
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在麥克莫多站,南極的主要科學研究據點,
10:04
which哪一個 is the main主要 scientific科學 station in Antarctica南極洲.
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星期一晚上是中國菜之夜。
10:07
So, you see different不同 varieties品種 of Chinese中文 food餐飲.
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接著,來讓你們看看各式各樣的中國菜:
10:09
For example, there is French法國 Chinese中文 food餐飲,
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比方說,法國的中菜館,
10:11
where they serve服務 salt and pepper胡椒 frog青蛙 legs.
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提供椒鹽田雞腿肉;
10:14
There is Italian意大利 Chinese中文 food餐飲,
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義大利的中菜館,
10:15
where they don't have fortune幸運 cookies餅乾,
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那裡雖然沒有幸運籤餅,
10:18
so they serve服務 fried油炸 gelato冰淇淋.
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不過她們有炸義式冰淇淋。
10:19
My downstairs樓下 neighbor鄰居, Alessandra亞歷山德拉,
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我家樓下的鄰居,亞歷珊卓,
10:20
was completely全然 shocked吃驚 when I told her,
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在到我這麼說時,被嚇到了:
10:22
"Dude多德, fried油炸 gelato冰淇淋 is not Chinese中文."
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「欸,炸義式冰淇淋不是中國菜啊!」
10:24
She's like, "It's not?
278
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她問:「不是嗎?
10:25
But they serve服務 it in all the Chinese中文 restaurants餐館 in Italy意大利."
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可是,全義大利的中國餐館都有這道甜點啊!」
10:27
(Laughter笑聲)
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(眾人笑)
10:32
And even the Brits英國人 have their own擁有 version.
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即使是英國人,也有他們自己版本的中國菜──
10:34
This is a dish called crispy香脆 shredded切絲 beef牛肉,
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這是脆牛肉絲,
10:36
which哪一個 has a lot of crisp, a lot of shred撕碎, and not a lot of beef牛肉.
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很脆,很多肉絲,吃起來卻不太像牛肉。
10:40
There is West西 Indian印度人 Chinese中文 food餐飲,
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西印度的中國餐廳;
10:42
there's Jamaican牙買加 Chinese中文 food餐飲,
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牙買加的中國餐廳;
10:43
there is Middle中間 Eastern Chinese中文 food餐飲,
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中東的中國餐廳;
10:44
there's Mauritian毛里求斯 Chinese中文 food餐飲.
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模里西斯的中國餐廳,
10:46
This is a dish called Magic魔法 Bowl
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我發現這裡有道
10:47
that I discovered發現.
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叫做「魔丼」的料理。
10:48
There's Indian印度人 Chinese中文 food餐飲,
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印度的中國餐廳;
10:49
Korean朝鮮的 Chinese中文 food餐飲,
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韓國的中國餐廳;
10:51
Japanese日本 Chinese中文 food餐飲,
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我們在日本的中國餐廳,
10:52
where they take the bao, the little buns包子,
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吃了包子,一種像是小餐包的食物,
10:54
and they make them into pizza比薩 versions版本,
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不過他們把它印上「披薩」的字樣。
10:55
and they take --
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而且他們還
10:57
and they -- like, totally完全 randomly隨機
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隨意的
10:58
they'll他們會 take Chinese中文 noodle麵條 dishes碗碟,
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把中式麵食
11:01
and they'll他們會 just Ramen-ize拉麵IZE them.
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拉麵化
11:02
This is, like, this is something
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像這個,
11:03
that in the Chinese中文 version has no soup.
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若是中式麵條的做法,是沒有湯的。
11:05
So, there's Peruvian秘魯 Chinese中文 food餐飲,
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秘魯的中國餐廳,
11:07
which哪一個 should not be mixed with Mexican墨西哥人 Chinese中文 food餐飲,
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這跟墨西哥那裡的中國菜可不一樣。
11:09
where they basically基本上 take things
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墨西哥人通常將中菜料理成
11:10
and make it look like fajitas吉它.
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像是墨西哥烤肉的食物。
11:12
And then -- one thing:
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還有,這個:
11:13
they have things like risotto燴飯 chop suey雜碎.
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義大利雜碎燉飯。
11:14
My personal個人 favorite喜愛
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我走遍各地,
11:15
of all the restaurants餐館 I've encountered遇到 around the world世界
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所去過的中菜館裡,我最愛的是這家,
11:19
was this one in Brazil巴西, called "Kung功夫 Food餐飲."
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位在巴西,叫做「功夫菜」的餐館。
11:21
(Laughter笑聲)
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(眾人笑)
11:25
So, let's take a step back,
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好,讓我們回到美國,
11:26
and kind of, understand理解
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來試著了解,
11:28
what is to be appreciated讚賞 in America美國.
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美國的中國菜有什麼值得欣賞之處。
11:31
McDonald's麥當勞 has, sort分類 of,
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麥當勞
11:34
garnered囊括 a lot of attention注意, a lot of respect尊重,
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之所以受人注意和尊重,
11:36
for basically基本上 standardizing標準化
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是因為他們在二次世界大戰後,
11:39
the menu菜單, décorCOR and dining用餐 experience經驗
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將美國速食餐廳的
11:42
in post-World後世界 War戰爭 IIII America美國.
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菜單、布置和用餐經驗標準化。
11:43
But you know what?
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但你們知道嗎?
11:44
They actually其實 did so
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這些其實是由麥當勞
11:45
through通過 a centralized集中 headquarters司令部
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在位於伊利諾州邊緣區域
11:46
out of Illinois伊利諾伊, right?
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的總部做出的決策,對吧?
11:47
Chinese中文 restaurants餐館
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我認為,中菜館
11:48
have doneDONE largely大部分 the same相同 thing, I would argue爭論,
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也一直在做同樣的事情。
11:51
with the menu菜單 and the décorCOR --
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他們標準化中國餐廳的菜單和布置,
11:52
even the restaurant餐廳 name名稱 --
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甚至是餐廳名字,
11:53
but without a centralized集中 headquarters司令部.
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只差沒有一家統籌的總公司。
11:54
So, this actually其實 became成為 very clear明確 to me
328
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讓我明白這點的,
11:57
with the March遊行 30, 2005 Powerball強力球 drawing畫畫,
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是2005年3月30號那一期的威力彩。
12:01
where, you know, they expected預期,
330
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如你所知,主辦者依據彩券銷售量估算,
12:02
based基於 on the number of ticket sales銷售 they had,
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當期
12:04
to have three or four second-place第二個地方 winners獲獎者 --
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應該會有三、四個二獎,
12:06
those are the people who match比賽 five or six Powerball強力球 numbers數字.
333
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2000
也就是彩卷中5碼或是6碼的獎金得主。
12:08
Instead代替, they had 110,
334
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但是,那一期卻有110個二獎得主,
12:09
and they were completely全然 shocked吃驚.
335
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這把主辦單位嚇壞了。
12:11
They looked看著 all across橫過 the country國家, and discovered發現
336
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他們分析全美國中獎者的分布情況,發現,
12:13
it couldn't不能 necessarily一定 be fraud舞弊,
337
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這應該不是作弊。
12:14
because it happened發生, you know,
338
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因為得主出現在
12:15
in different不同 states狀態, across橫過 different不同 computer電腦 systems系統.
339
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不同的州,也從不同的電腦系統下注,
12:17
So whatever隨你 it was,
340
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所以無論是什麼原因造成這麼高的得獎率,
12:18
it caused造成 people to sort分類 of behave表現
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一定跟人們某種
12:19
in a mass synchronized同步 way.
342
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大規模的集體行為有關。
12:21
So, like, OK, maybe it had to do with the patterns模式
343
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也就是說,嗯,或許是在這小小的投注單上,
12:23
on the little pieces of paper --
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人們出現某種行為模式,
12:25
you know, like, it was a diamond鑽石,
345
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1000
像是讓下注的數字連成菱形,
12:26
or, you know, diagonal對角線.
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或是位在對角線上數字的連線。
12:27
It wasn't that.
347
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然而,事情並非如此。
12:28
It wasn't that, so they're like,
348
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既然不是這樣,他們就想,
12:29
OK, let's look at television電視,
349
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好吧,從電視下手。
12:31
so they looked看著 at an episode插曲 of "Lost丟失."
350
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1000
也許是某集的《Lost檔案》給的靈感,
12:32
Now, I don't have a TV電視,
351
736000
1000
岔題一下,我家現在沒電視,
12:33
which哪一個 makes品牌 me a freak怪物, but very productive生產的, and --
352
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2000
因為電視會讓我變成個非常有生產力的怪胎,而且,
12:35
(Laughter笑聲)
353
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4000
(眾人笑)
12:39
-- and this episode插曲 of "Lost丟失," I understand理解,
354
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2000
而這一集的《Lost檔案》,據我所知,
12:41
where the overweight超重 guy has a lucky幸運 number
355
745000
1000
內容繞著一組某白人角色的幸運、
12:42
which哪一個 was not a lucky幸運 number,
356
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1000
也不太幸運的號碼打轉,
12:43
which哪一個 was how long they'd他們會 been on the island,
357
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1000
這組號碼同時也暗示他們將在島上待的日數。
12:44
but they looked看著,
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然而,當主辦單位查證後,
12:45
and the numbers數字 did not match比賽.
359
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1000
發現這組數字,沒有一個跟開獎號碼一樣。
12:46
So they looked看著 at "The Young年輕 and The Restless不安,"
360
750000
1000
主辦單位又查了另一部影集《年輕與躁動》,
12:47
and it wasn't that, either.
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也跟開獎號碼無關。
12:48
So, it wasn't until直到 the first guy shows節目 up the next下一個 day,
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一直到隔天,有個中獎者出面領獎,
12:53
and they ask him,
363
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1000
他們問他:
12:54
"Where did you get your number from?"
364
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1000
「你是怎麼決定要簽哪些號碼的?」
12:55
He's like, "Oh, I got it from a fortune幸運 cookie曲奇餅."
365
759000
1000
他說:「喔,我是在幸運籤餅上看到的。」
12:56
This actually其實 is a slip that one of the winners獲獎者 had,
366
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這的的確確是其中一個中獎者拿到的籤詩,
12:58
because the Tennessee田納西 lottery抽獎 security安全 officials官員
367
762000
3000
而田納西州的彩券安全部警官看到它,
13:01
were like, oh, no -- like, this can't be true真正.
368
765000
2000
反應是:「喔!這怎麼可能!」
13:03
But it was true真正,
369
767000
2000
但事情就是這樣。
13:05
and basically基本上, of those 110 people,
370
769000
3000
這110個人中,
13:08
and 104 of them or so
371
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1000
有104個人
13:09
had gotten得到 their number from the fortune幸運 cookie曲奇餅.
372
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是根據幸運籤餅裡頭的籤詩決定下注的號碼。
13:11
(Laughter笑聲)
373
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(眾人笑)
13:13
Yeah. So, I went and started開始 looking.
374
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3000
是的,因為這件事,我開始,
13:16
I went across橫過 the country國家,
375
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1000
從美東走到美西,
13:17
looking for these restaurants餐館
376
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尋找這些
13:18
where these people had gotten得到 their fortune幸運 cookies餅乾 from.
377
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提供中獎者幸運籤餅的中菜館。
13:21
You know, there are a bunch of them,
378
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他們之中,
13:22
including包含 Lee's China中國 in Omaha奧馬哈 --
379
786000
3000
包括這家由韓國人經營的,
13:25
which哪一個 is actually其實 run by Koreans韓國人, but that's another另一個 point --
380
789000
2000
奧馬哈的李家菜。這其實是另外一個故事了......
13:27
and a bunch of them named命名 China中國 Buffet自助餐.
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還有,很多中菜館都叫中國自助餐。
13:30
So, what's interesting有趣 is that their stories故事 were similar類似,
382
794000
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有趣的是,這些餐廳既相似,
13:33
but they were different不同.
383
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卻又非常不同。
13:34
It was lunch午餐, it was take-out取出,
384
798000
1000
這家只供午餐,那家只供外帶,
13:35
it was sit-down坐下, it was buffet自助餐,
385
799000
2000
這家點餐,那家是自助餐,
13:37
it was three weeks ago, it was three months個月 ago.
386
801000
2000
這家三周前開幕,那家三個月前開幕,
13:39
But at some point,
387
803000
1000
但是,
13:40
all these people had a very similar類似 experience經驗
388
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所有的中獎者都因為幸運餅乾和中菜館,
13:42
that converged融合 at a fortune幸運 cookie曲奇餅 and at a Chinese中文 restaurant餐廳,
389
806000
3000
共享非常相似的經歷。
13:45
and all these Chinese中文 restaurants餐館
390
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2000
而這些中菜館
13:47
were serving服務 fortune幸運 cookies餅乾,
391
811000
1000
全都提供幸運籤餅。
13:48
which哪一個, of course課程 we know
392
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當然,我們現在都知道,
13:49
aren't even Chinese中文 to begin開始 with.
393
813000
1000
幸運籤餅本非中式點心。
13:50
So it's kind of part部分 of the phenomenon現象
394
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2000
所以,這是一種,
13:52
I called spontaneous自發 self-organization自組織, right,
395
816000
3000
我稱做自發性組織的現象,
13:55
where, like in ant螞蟻 colonies群落,
396
819000
2000
就像是螞群
13:57
where little decisions決定 made製作 by -- on the micro-level微觀層面
397
821000
3000
在微觀尺度所做的決策,
14:00
actually其實 have a big impact碰撞 on the macro-level宏觀層面.
398
824000
2000
卻能在巨觀尺度產生極大的影響力。
14:02
So, a good sort分類 of contrast對比
399
826000
3000
另一個好的對照組,
14:05
is Chicken McNuggets麥樂雞.
400
829000
1000
是麥克雞塊。
14:06
McDonald's麥當勞 actually其實 spent花費 10 years年份
401
830000
1000
麥當勞花了十年,
14:07
coming未來 out with a chicken-like雞肋般 product產品.
402
831000
3000
才推出第一個類雞肉產品。
14:10
They did chicken pot pie餡餅,
403
834000
1000
她們曾經試過雞肉派、
14:11
they did fried油炸 chicken,
404
835000
1000
炸雞、
14:12
and then they finally最後 introduced介紹 Chicken McNuggets麥樂雞.
405
836000
2000
最後終於找出麥克雞塊的配方。
14:14
And the great innovation革新 of Chicken McNuggets麥樂雞
406
838000
2000
而麥克雞塊的創意厲害之處,
14:16
was not nuggetfyingnuggetfying them,
407
840000
2000
不在於把雞肉雞塊化,
14:18
because that's kind of an easy簡單 concept概念,
408
842000
1000
這太容易了,
14:19
but the trick behind背後 Chicken McNuggets麥樂雞 was,
409
843000
2000
而在於製造麥克雞塊時,
14:21
they were able能夠 to remove去掉 the chicken from the bone
410
845000
2000
麥當勞得以合乎成本效益的方式,
14:23
in a cost-effective經濟有效 manner方式,
411
847000
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讓雞肉骨肉分離。
14:24
which哪一個 is why it took so long
412
848000
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這才是為什麼其他的競爭對手得花很長的時間,
14:26
for other people to copy複製 them.
413
850000
1000
方能複製麥當勞經驗的原因。
14:27
It took 10 years年份,
414
851000
1000
麥當勞花了十年研發出的麥克雞塊,
14:28
and then within a couple一對 of months個月,
415
852000
1000
只在數個月間
14:29
it was such這樣 a hit擊中
416
853000
1000
就能大賣。
14:30
they just introduced介紹 it and rolled熱軋 it across橫過
417
854000
1000
他們所做的,不過就是推出新產品,然後推廣到
14:31
the entire整個 system系統 of McDonald's麥當勞 in the country國家.
418
855000
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遍布美國的麥當勞分店。
14:33
In contrast對比,
419
857000
1000
相對的,
14:34
we have General一般 Tso's左宗棠 Chicken,
420
858000
1000
左宗棠雞
14:35
which哪一個 actually其實 started開始 in New York紐約 City in the early 1970s,
421
859000
3000
最早出現在1970年代初期的紐約,
14:38
as I was also starting開始 in the university大學 in New York紐約 City in the early 1970s, so ...
422
862000
5000
那時我剛開始在紐約念大學......
14:43
And this logo商標!
423
867000
1000
喔,還有這個「我愛紐約」的標誌。
14:44
So me, General一般 Tso's左宗棠 Chicken and this logo商標
424
868000
1000
所以,我、左宗棠雞和這標誌,
14:45
are all karmacallykarmacally related有關.
425
869000
1000
是有很大關連的。
14:46
But that dish also took about 10 years年份
426
870000
3000
但是,這道菜也花了10年,
14:49
to spread傳播 across橫過 America美國
427
873000
1000
才得以從紐約一家不起眼的餐廳,
14:50
from a random隨機 restaurant餐廳 in New York紐約 City.
428
874000
2000
到現在全美各地的中菜館都能吃到它。
14:52
Someone's別人的 like,
429
876000
1000
很多人覺得:
14:53
oh, God -- it's sweet, it's fried油炸, it's chicken:
430
877000
1000
哇!天啊!這菜是甜的、是油炸食物、是雞肉料理,
14:54
Americans美國人 will love this.
431
878000
2000
美國人都會喜歡的。
14:56
So, what I like to say, you know, this being存在 sort分類 of Bay Area, Silicon Valley --
432
880000
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我想說的是,嗯,套個舊金山灣區、或是矽谷的人會用的說法:
15:00
is that we think of McDonald's麥當勞
433
884000
1000
如果把在麥當勞用餐的經驗,
15:01
as sort分類 of the Microsoft微軟 of the dining用餐 experiences經驗.
434
885000
3000
比做微軟,
15:04
We can think of Chinese中文 restaurants餐館 perhaps也許 as LinuxLinux的:
435
888000
3000
或許,中國餐廳就能看做是Linux操作系統,
15:07
sort分類 of an open打開 source資源 thing, right,
436
891000
2000
帶著自由軟體的概念,對吧!
15:09
where ideas思路 from one person can be
437
893000
3000
自由軟體可以讓一個人的程式設計,
15:12
copied複製 and propagated傳播 across橫過 the entire整個 system系統,
438
896000
3000
藉由不斷複製軟體程式碼來推廣給所有的系統使用人。
15:15
that there can be specialized專門 versions版本 of Chinese中文 food餐飲,
439
899000
4000
中國菜也一樣,
15:19
you know, depending根據 on the region地區.
440
903000
1000
因為我們都知道,有隨著饕客所在的地域,而出現的特別版中菜。
15:20
For example, you know,
441
904000
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比如說,
15:22
in New Orleans奧爾良 we have Cajun印第安 Chinese中文 food餐飲,
442
906000
2000
紐澳良有卡津式的中國菜,
15:24
where they serve服務 Sichuan四川 alligator鱷魚 and sweet and sour crawfish, right?
443
908000
4000
即川味的鱷魚和糖醋淡水龍蝦。
15:28
And in Philadelphia費城,
444
912000
1000
在費城,
15:29
you have Philadelphia費城 cheesesteak奶酪牛排 roll,
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你可以找到費城牛肉起司捲,
15:31
which哪一個 looks容貌 like an egg roll on the outside,
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外觀跟春捲沒兩樣,
15:32
but a cheesesteak奶酪牛排 on the inside.
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卻包著牛肉起司三明治的內餡。
15:33
I was really surprised詫異 to discover發現 that,
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我非常驚訝,
15:35
not only in Philadelphia費城, but also in Atlanta亞特蘭大,
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這料理不僅出現在費城,連亞特蘭大也有。
15:38
because what had happened發生
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這是因為
15:39
was that a Chinese中文 family家庭 had moved移動
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有個經營中菜館的家族
15:40
from Atlanta亞特蘭大 to -- sorry, from Philadelphia費城 to Atlanta亞特蘭大,
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從亞特蘭大,呃不,是從費城搬到亞特蘭大時,
15:44
and brought that with them.
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把這道菜的做法帶去了。
15:46
So, the thing is,
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所以啊,
15:47
our historical歷史的 lore知識,
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因為我們偏好的述事方式,
15:48
because of the way we like narratives敘事,
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讓我們的歷史課裡,
15:49
are full充分 of vast廣大 characters人物
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有偉大貢獻的人比比皆是,
15:51
such這樣 as, you know, Howard霍華德 Schultz舒爾茨 of Starbucks星巴克
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像是,星巴克的霍華‧舒茲,
15:53
and Ray射線 Kroc克羅克 with McDonald's麥當勞
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麥當勞的雷‧克羅克,
15:55
and Asa作為一個 Chandler錢德勒 with Coca-Cola可口可樂.
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可口可樂的亞沙‧坎德勒。
15:58
But, you know,
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但是,就因為這樣,
15:59
it's very easy簡單 to overlook俯瞰 the smaller characters人物 -- oops哎呀 --
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我們很容易就忽略平凡人,
16:02
for example, like Lem萊姆 Sen,
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比如說,連紳,
16:03
who introduced介紹 chop suey雜碎,
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那個發明炒雜碎的廚師。
16:05
Chef廚師 Peng,
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或是發明左宗棠雞的
16:06
who introduced介紹 General一般 Tso左宗棠 Chicken,
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彭師傅,
16:07
and all the Japanese日本 bakers麵包師
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還有所有將
16:09
who introduced介紹 fortune幸運 cookies餅乾.
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幸運籤餅帶進美國的日本糕餅師傅。
16:11
So, the point of my presentation介紹 is
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也因此,我在這場演講中,想要跟妳們分享的是,
16:13
to make you think twice兩次,
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請你們再想想,
16:15
that those whose誰的 names are forgotten忘記了 in history歷史
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這些曾在歷史上出現,但名字已被我們遺忘的小人物,
16:17
can often經常 have had as much,
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往往也能
16:18
if not more, impact碰撞 on what we eat today今天.
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對我們今日的飲食內容有非常大的影響。
16:21
So. Thank you very much.
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謝謝各位。
Translated by Ching-Yi Wu
Reviewed by Chih-Yuan Huang

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Jennifer 8. Lee - Reporter
The possessor of the best byline in the New York Times, Jennifer 8. Lee reports on culture and city life. Her latest book is The Fortune Cookie Chronicles.

Why you should listen

Jennifer 8. Lee is a reporter for the New York Times, starting with the paper as a tech writer for the Circuits section. She's now a metropolitan reporter for the paper, turning in sparkling and intricately reported stories of city life. NPR called her a "conceptual scoop" artist -- finding and getting details on new lifestyle trends that we all want to talk about.

Her fascination with American Chinese food led her to research and write The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, in which she solves some of the enduring mysteries around this indigenous cuisine, including such questions as: "Who is General Tso and why are we eating his chicken?" and "Why do Jews eat Chinese food on Christmas?"

 

More profile about the speaker
Jennifer 8. Lee | Speaker | TED.com