TEDCity2.0
Iwan Baan: Ingenious homes in unexpected places
以望．班 (Iwan Baan): 意想不到之處的巧妙家園
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在委內瑞拉的卡拉卡斯中心矗立著一棟 45 層樓高的「托雷大衛高樓」，一個未完工的廢棄摩天大樓。大約八年前，開始有人入住。攝影師伊望． 班 (Iwan Baan) 展示了人們如何在不可思議的地方打造家園，並且帶我們參觀托雷大衛高樓的家庭、奈及利亞的水上城市，以及中國的地下村莊。精彩的影像頌揚人類求生與成家的能力──無論你身在何方。
Iwan Baan - Urban documentarian
Photographer Iwan Baan captures the many ways people shape their shared built environment -- from glossy starchitecture to handmade homes. Full bio
Photographer Iwan Baan captures the many ways people shape their shared built environment -- from glossy starchitecture to handmade homes. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
Throughout my career, I've been fortunate enough
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在我的職業生涯中一直很幸運
00:15
to work with many of the great
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能和許多很棒的
00:16
international architects,
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國際建築師合作，
00:18
documenting their work and observing
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記錄他們的作品，並且觀察
00:20
how their designs have the capacity
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他們的設計是如何能
00:22
to influence the cities in which they sit.
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影響他們所在的城市。
00:25
I think of new cities like Dubai
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我思考一些像是杜拜的新城市，
00:28
or ancient cities like Rome
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或是像羅馬的古老城市，
00:31
with Zaha Hadid's incredible MAXXI museum,
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那裡有札哈．哈蒂設計
另人驚豔的 21 世紀美術館，
另人驚豔的 21 世紀美術館，
00:34
or like right here in New York with the High Line,
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又或者像是在此地紐約的空中花園，
00:37
a city which has been so much influenced
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受到這些設計開發影響
00:39
by the development of this.
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十分深遠的城市。
00:41
But what I find really fascinating
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但是我發現真正吸引我的是
00:43
is what happens when architects and planners leave
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在建築師和規劃師離開之後發生的事。
00:46
and these places become appropriated by people,
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這些地方被人們重新定義，
00:49
like here in Chandigarh, India,
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像是印度的昌迪加爾，
00:52
the city which has been completely designed
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這座完全由
建築師柯比意所設計的城市。
00:54
by the architect Le Corbusier.
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00:56
Now 60 years later, the city has been taken over
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60 年後的現在，這座城市已由
00:59
by people in very different ways
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人民接手，運用的方式迥異於
01:01
from whatever perhaps intended for,
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它原來建造的本意。
01:04
like here, where you have the people
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就像這裡，你可以看見
01:06
sitting in the windows of the assembly hall.
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人們坐在聚會堂的窗洞中。
01:09
But over the course of several years,
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在這幾年之間，
01:11
I've been documenting Rem Koolhaas's
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我記錄了由雷姆．庫哈斯設計
01:14
CCTV building in Beijing
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位在北京的中央電視台總部大樓，
01:16
and the olympic stadium in the same city
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以及在同一個城市的國家體育場，
01:19
by the architects Herzog and de Meuron.
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出自建築師赫爾佐格和德梅隆。
01:22
At these large-scale construction sites in China,
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這些在中國的大型建築物周圍，
01:25
you see a sort of makeshift camp
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你可以看到一種臨時帳篷，
01:27
where workers live during the entire building process.
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在整個建造期間，工人們都住在這裡。
01:32
As the length of the construction takes years,
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因為工程長達數年，
01:34
workers end up forming a rather rough-and-ready
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工人們後來形成了一個簡陋、將就的
01:37
informal city, making for quite a juxtaposition
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非正規城市，和他們正在
01:40
against the sophisticated structures that they're building.
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建造的精緻建築形成強烈對比。
01:44
Over the past seven years, I've been following
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在過去七年間，我一直追隨著
01:46
my fascination with the built environment,
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自己對建築環境的迷戀，
01:48
and for those of you who know me, you would say
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在座認識我的人會說
01:51
that this obsession has led me to live
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這種迷戀讓我
01:53
out of a suitcase 365 days a year.
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甘於過著一年 365 天
提著行李箱的奔波生活。
提著行李箱的奔波生活。
01:57
Being constantly on the move
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不斷地移動
01:59
means that sometimes I am able
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意謂著有時候我會
02:01
to catch life's most unpredictable moments,
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巧遇人生中最難以預料的一些時刻，
02:04
like here in New York
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就像是桑迪颶風
02:06
the day after the Sandy storm hit the city.
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侵襲紐約的隔天。
02:10
Just over three years ago,
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我在三年前
02:13
I was for the first time in Caracas, Venezuela,
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第一次到委內瑞拉的卡拉卡斯，
02:15
and while flying over the city, I was just amazed
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在飛越這個城市的途中，
02:18
by the extent to which the slums
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見到貧民窟遍及整座城市的
02:20
reach into every corner of the city,
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每個角落，讓我十分驚訝，
02:22
a place where nearly 70 percent of the population
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這個地方有將近 70% 的人口
02:25
lives in slums,
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住在貧民窟裡，
02:27
draped literally all over the mountains.
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幾乎是布滿了整個山頭。
02:30
During a conversation with local architects Urban-Think Tank,
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在一場與當地建築師團隊
城市智庫的對話中，
城市智庫的對話中，
02:33
I learned about the Torre David,
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我聽到有關「托雷大衛高樓」的故事，
02:36
a 45-story office building which sits
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那是一棟 45 層樓的辦公大樓，座落在
02:38
right in the center of Caracas.
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卡拉卡斯的中心。
02:40
The building was under construction
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這棟建築的工程
02:42
until the collapse of the Venezuelan economy
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進行到 90 年代初期，
02:44
and the death of the developer in the early '90s.
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直到委內瑞拉經濟崩盤，
開發商過世而中止了。
開發商過世而中止了。
02:48
About eight years ago, people started moving
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大約八年前，人們開始搬進
02:51
into the abandoned tower
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這棟廢棄的高樓，
02:53
and began to build their homes right in between
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著手構築自己的家，就在
02:55
every column of this unfinished tower.
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這棟未完成高樓之間的
每個小窗格裡。
每個小窗格裡。
02:58
There's only one little entrance to the entire building,
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整棟大樓只有一個很小的入口，
03:01
and the 3,000 residents come in and out
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多達三千名居民進出
03:04
through that single door.
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全靠這扇唯一的門。
03:06
Together, the inhabitants created public spaces
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同樣的，住戶建立了公共空間，
03:09
and designed them to feel more like a home
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把它構築得更像一個家，
03:11
and less like an unfinished tower.
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而不是一座未完成的高塔。
03:13
In the lobby, they painted the walls and planted trees.
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他們在大廳漆了牆、種了樹，
03:17
They also made a basketball court.
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還設了一個籃球場。
03:20
But when you look up closely,
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但是當你靠近些看，
03:22
you see massive holes where elevators
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你會看見一些很大的洞，
03:24
and services would have run through.
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那是原本預留來配裝電梯
和公共設施的位置。
和公共設施的位置。
03:27
Within the tower, people have come up
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人們在高樓裡
03:29
with all sorts of solutions
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提供各式各樣的服務，
03:31
in response to the various needs
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只要是生活在這棟未完成的大樓裡
03:33
which arise from living in an unfinished tower.
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會碰到的各種需求都能滿足。
03:36
With no elevators,
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由於沒有電梯，
03:38
the tower is like a 45-story walkup.
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這棟高樓就像是 45 層樓的無電梯公寓。
03:41
Designed in very specific ways
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由這群完全沒有學過
03:43
by this group of people
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建築或設計的人們
03:45
who haven't had any education in architecture or design.
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採用很特別的方式設計完成的。
03:49
And with each inhabitant finding their own
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每一位居民都找到自己
03:51
unique way of coming by,
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獨特的打造方式，
03:53
this tower becomes like a living city,
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這棟高樓變成一座生氣蓬勃的城市，
03:56
a place which is alive with micro-economies
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一個有活躍微型經濟
03:59
and small businesses.
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和小生意的地方。
04:01
The inventive inhabitants, for instance,
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舉例來說，有創意的居民
04:03
find opportunities in the most unexpected cases,
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在最意想不到的地方找到機會，
04:06
like the adjacent parking garage,
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像是將停車場
04:08
which has been reclaimed as a taxi route
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改造成計乘車的行經路線，
04:10
to shuttle the inhabitants up through the ramps
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把居民載上爬坡，
04:13
in order to shorten the hike
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如此一來就能縮短
04:14
up to the apartments.
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爬上樓的距離。
04:18
A walk through the tower
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在高樓中繞一會兒，
04:20
reveals how residents have figured out
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就能發現居民找到
04:22
how to create walls, how to make an air flow,
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如何在高樓中搭蓋圍牆、讓空氣流通、
04:26
how to create transparency,
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以及採光
04:28
circulation throughout the tower,
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和空氣循環的方式，
04:30
essentially creating a home
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基本上就是完全順應
04:32
that's completely adapted
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居住環境
04:34
to the conditions of the site.
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來打造一個家。
04:37
When a new inhabitant moves into the tower,
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當一位新居民搬進高樓，
04:39
they already have a roof over their head,
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他們的頭上已有屋頂，
04:41
so they just typically mark their space
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因此他們只需要
04:43
with a few curtains or sheets.
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放上簾子和床單來標示自己的家。
04:46
Slowly, from found materials, walls rise,
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慢慢地，透過尋找材料、築起牆，
04:49
and people create a space out of any found objects
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人們用各種找得到的東西或材料
04:52
or materials.
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來打造一個空間。
04:54
It's remarkable to see the design decisions
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他們的設計選擇
04:56
that they're making,
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總讓我大為驚奇，
04:58
like when everything is made out of red bricks,
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像是當每樣東西都用紅磚做成的時候，
05:01
some residents will cover that red brick
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有些居民會在紅磚上
05:03
with another layer of red brick-patterned wallpaper
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貼上另一層磚塊圖案的壁紙，
05:07
just to make it a kind of clean finish.
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讓它看起來像是剛完工的新穎模樣。
05:12
The inhabitants literally built up these homes
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基本上居民用雙手打造自己的家，
05:14
with their own hands, and this labor of love
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這種因為喜愛而做的舉動
05:16
instills a great sense of pride
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為這棟高樓裡的許多家庭注入
05:18
in many families living in this tower.
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一種高貴的尊嚴。
05:21
They typically make the best out of their conditions,
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他們充分利用自己的環境，
05:24
and try to make their spaces look nice and homey,
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試著讓空間看起來舒適、像個家，
05:27
or at least up until as far as they can reach.
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至少盡全力做到最好。
05:31
Throughout the tower, you come across
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你可以在整棟高樓中找到
05:34
all kinds of services, like the barber,
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各種服務，像是理髮廳、
05:36
small factories, and every floor has
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小工廠，而且每層樓都有
05:40
a little grocery store or shop.
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一家小雜貨店。
05:43
And you even find a church.
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甚至連教堂都找得到。
05:46
And on the 30th floor, there is a gym
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在 30 樓還有一家健身房，
05:48
where all the weights and barbells
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各種舉重槓鈴、啞鈴
05:50
are made out of the leftover pulleys
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都是用那些原本要拿來
05:52
from the elevators which were never installed.
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裝電梯的廢棄滑輪做成的。
05:55
From the outside, behind this always-changing facade,
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從外頭看，在這不斷變化的外觀後面，
05:58
you see how the fixed concrete beams
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你會發現這些固定的水泥柱
05:59
provide a framework for the inhabitants
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提供居民
06:01
to create their homes
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打造自宅的架構，
06:03
in an organic, intuitive way
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用一種自然發展的方式
06:04
that responds directly to their needs.
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直接回應他們的需求。
06:07
Let's go now to Africa, to Nigeria,
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現在我們來到非洲奈及利亞境內
06:10
to a community called Makoko,
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一個名叫馬可可的社區，
06:12
a slum where 150,000 people
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這裡有 15 萬人住在貧民窟，
06:15
live just meters above the Lagos Lagoon.
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往下走幾尺就是拉各斯潟湖。
06:18
While it may appear to be a completely chaotic place,
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這裡可能會變成一個非常雜亂的地方，
06:22
when you see it from above, there seems to be
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當你從上面看，就像是
06:24
a whole grid of waterways and canals
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一整面水道和運河組成的格子
06:27
connecting each and every home.
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連結每一戶人家。
06:30
From the main dock, people board long wooden canoes
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人們從主要的碼頭搭乘長型獨木舟
06:34
which carry them out to their various homes and shops
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前往在這片廣闊水域中
06:37
located in the expansive area.
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形形色色的住宅和商店。
06:39
When out on the water, it's clear
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離開水面後，顯而易見的是
06:41
that life has been completely adapted
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人們已經完全適應
06:43
to this very specific way of living.
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這種特別的生活方式。
06:46
Even the canoes become variety stores
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甚至連獨木舟都變成
各式各樣不同的商店，
各式各樣不同的商店，
06:49
where ladies paddle from house to house,
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婦女划著漿挨家挨戶
06:50
selling anything from toothpaste to fresh fruits.
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販賣牙膏、水果等各種東西。
06:55
Behind every window and door frame,
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在每扇門窗後，
06:57
you'll see a small child peering back at you,
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你會看見小孩窺探著你。
06:59
and while Makoko seems to be packed with people,
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馬可可看起來到處都是人，
07:02
what's more shocking is actually
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最讓人驚訝的莫過於
07:04
the amount of children pouring out of every building.
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每戶人家不斷增加的孩童數量。
07:08
The population growth in Nigeria,
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奈及利亞的人口成長，
07:10
and especially in these areas like Makoko,
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尤其是在像馬可可的這些地方
07:12
are painful reminders
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都痛苦地提醒著人們
07:14
of how out of control things really are.
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事情失控得多麼嚴重。
07:18
In Makoko, very few systems
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馬可可裡的民生設施和
07:21
and infrastructures exist.
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公共建設非常少。
07:23
Electricity is rigged and freshest water
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電力配線草率，整個區域
07:26
comes from self-built wells throughout the area.
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最乾淨的水源是自己挖的井水。
07:29
This entire economic model
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這整個經濟模式
07:31
is designed to meet a specific way of living
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設計成能夠滿足居住在
水上的特殊生活方式，
水上的特殊生活方式，
07:34
on the water, so fishing and boat-making
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因此釣魚和製作船支
07:37
are common professions.
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成了最普遍的職業。
07:39
You'll have a set of entrepreneurs
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這裡有一群生意人
07:41
who have set up businesses throughout the area,
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促進了整個區域商業活動，
07:44
like barbershops, CD and DVD stores,
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像是理髮業、CD 和 DVD 唱片行、
07:49
movie theaters, tailors, everything is there.
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電影院、裁縫店，什麼東西都有。
07:54
There is even a photo studio
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甚至還有攝影工作室，
07:56
where you see the sort of aspiration
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你可以看到一種
07:58
to live in a real house or to be associated
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住在真正房子的渴望，或是期盼
08:01
with a faraway place, like that hotel in Sweden.
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和遠方有聯結，像是在瑞典的旅館。
08:05
On this particular evening,
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在這特別的午後，
08:07
I came across this live band
182
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我巧遇這組樂團，
08:09
dressed to the T in their coordinating outfits.
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團員們穿著同樣的 T 恤團服。
08:12
They were floating through the canals
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他們坐在配有發電機的獨木舟上
08:14
in a large canoe with a fitted-out generator
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漂過河道，
08:17
for all of the community to enjoy.
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帶給整個社區歡樂。
08:21
By nightfall, the area becomes almost pitch black,
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夜幕低垂，整個區域幾乎是一片漆黑，
08:24
save for a small lightbulb
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家戶只留下一盞小燈
08:26
or a fire.
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或爐火。
08:29
What originally brought me to Makoko
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原本讓我到馬可可的原因
08:32
was this project from a friend of mine,
191
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是因為朋友介紹的這個計畫，
08:33
Kunlé Adeyemi, who recently finished building
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昆勒．阿德耶米最近完成
08:36
this three-story floating school
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這個三層樓高的漂浮學校
08:38
for the kids in Makoko.
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給馬可可的小朋友使用。
08:40
With this entire village existing on the water,
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這整個村莊都在水上，
08:43
public space is very limited,
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公共空間十分有限，
08:46
so now that the school is finished,
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因此當學校完工後，
08:47
the ground floor is a playground for the kids,
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一樓就成了小朋友的遊樂區，
08:51
but when classes are out, the platform
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但是下課後，平臺
08:53
is just like a town square,
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成了村民廣場，
08:54
where the fishermen mend their nets
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漁人在這裡修補魚網，
08:57
and floating shopkeepers dock their boats.
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漂浮商人在這兒停靠小船。
09:01
Another place I'd like to share with you
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另一個我想分享的地方
09:03
is the Zabbaleen in Cairo.
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是在開羅的札巴林。
09:05
They're descendants of farmers who began migrating
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他們是 40 年代開始從上埃及
09:08
from the upper Egypt in the '40s,
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遷移來此的農民後代，
09:11
and today they make their living
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現今他們維生的方式是
09:12
by collecting and recycling waste from homes
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回收整個開羅的
09:15
from all over Cairo.
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家庭垃圾。
09:17
For years, the Zabbaleen would live in makeshift villages
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幾年來，札巴林會住在
臨時搭建的村子裡，
臨時搭建的村子裡，
09:21
where they would move around
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他們為了
09:22
trying to avoid the local authorities,
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避開地方政府四處搬遷，
09:25
but in the early 1980s, they settled
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但是在 80 年代初期，他們定居
09:27
on the Mokattam rocks
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在莫卡頓山區，
09:29
just at the eastern edge of the city.
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位在城市的東緣。
09:31
Today, they live in this area,
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現在他們住在這個地區，
09:34
approximately 50,000 to 70,000 people,
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大約有五到七萬人
09:36
who live in this community of self-built
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居住在這個社區中自己搭建、
09:38
multi-story houses
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樓數不一的房子裡，
09:41
where up to three generations live in one structure.
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有多達三代以上的家庭
住在同一棟房子裡。
住在同一棟房子裡。
09:45
While these apartments that they built for themselves
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僅管這些他們為自己蓋的公寓
09:47
appear to lack any planning or formal grid,
222
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看起來沒有任何設計或正規的格局，
09:50
each family specializing in a certain form of recycling
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每戶人家都專門從事
某一種特定的回收，
某一種特定的回收，
09:54
means that the ground floor of each apartment
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意謂著每棟房子的一樓
09:56
is reserved for garbage-related activities
225
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都保留來做為處理與垃圾有關的工作，
10:00
and the upper floor is dedicated to living space.
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而上面的樓層則做為居住空間。
10:04
I find it incredible to see
227
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我覺得很不可思議的是看到
10:06
how these piles and piles of garbage
228
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這些堆積如山的垃圾
10:07
are invisible to the people who live there,
229
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當地人似乎都視而不見，
10:10
like this very distinguished man who is posing
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像這位高雅的先生就在
10:13
while all this garbage is sort of streaming out behind him,
231
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像要湧向他的垃圾堆前
擺出拍照的姿勢；
擺出拍照的姿勢；
10:18
or like these two young men who are sitting
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又或是像這兩個年輕人坐在
10:20
and chatting amongst these tons of garbage.
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好幾噸的垃圾間聊天。
10:25
While to most of us, living amongst
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1733
然而對大部分的我們來說，住在
10:27
these piles and piles of garbage
235
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這堆積如山的垃圾間
10:29
may seem totally uninhabitable,
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幾乎是不可能的事，
10:31
to those in the Zabbaleen, this is just
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2090
而對這些札巴林人而言，這只是
10:33
a different type of normal.
238
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另一種正常的生活方式。
10:36
In all these places I've talked about today,
239
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今天我分享的這些地方
10:38
what I do find fascinating is that there's really
240
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2121
深深吸引我的原因在於
10:41
no such thing as normal,
241
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1598
其實沒有什麼事情是特別的，
10:42
and it proves that people are able to adapt
242
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2205
這也證明了人們能夠適應
10:44
to any kind of situation.
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任何不同的環境。
10:47
Throughout the day, it's quite common
244
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一天下來，
10:48
to come across a small party taking place
245
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要在街上碰到一場小派對
是很稀鬆平常的事，
是很稀鬆平常的事，
10:52
in the streets, just like this engagement party.
246
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3844
就像是這場訂婚派對。
10:55
In this tradition, the bride-to-be
247
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1987
這裡的傳統是待嫁新娘
10:57
displays all of their belongings,
248
645983
2145
要公眾展示所有的嫁妝，
11:00
which they soon bring to their new husband.
249
648128
2194
過不久他們就會
把這些東西帶到夫家去。
把這些東西帶到夫家去。
11:02
A gathering like this one
250
650322
2031
像這樣的聚會
11:04
offers such a juxtaposition
251
652353
1897
提供了強烈的對比，
11:06
where all the new stuff is displayed
252
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2778
所有嶄新的嫁妝就展示在
11:09
and all the garbage is used
253
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2366
這些垃圾之中，
11:11
as props to display all their new home accessories.
254
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就像是道具般地
突顯它們的新家飾品。
突顯它們的新家飾品。
11:18
Like Makoko and the Torre David,
255
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如同馬可可和托雷大衛高樓，
11:20
throughout the Zabbaleen you'll find all
256
668197
1545
在札巴林中，你也會發現
11:21
the same facilities as in any typical neighborhood.
257
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在其它典型社區中有的
各種相同公共設施。
各種相同公共設施。
11:24
There are the retail shops, the cafes
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2080
有裁縫店、咖啡廳
11:26
and the restaurants, and the community
259
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2320
和餐廳，這個社區是
11:29
is this community of Coptic Christians,
260
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2941
科普特基督徒的社區，
11:32
so you'll also find a church,
261
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2239
因此你也會找到一間教堂，
11:34
along with the scores of religious iconographies
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3445
以及大量的宗教圖示
11:37
throughout the area,
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出現在這整個區域中。
11:39
and also all the everyday services
264
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3189
同樣地，所有日常服務
11:42
like the electronic repair shops,
265
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1799
像是水電行、
11:44
the barbers, everything.
266
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3088
理髮廳，各種服務都有。
11:47
Visiting the homes of the Zabbaleen
267
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2173
參訪札巴林家庭
11:49
is also full of surprises.
268
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1689
也充滿驚喜。
11:51
While from the outside,
269
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1512
從外觀看，
11:53
these homes look like any other informal structure
270
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2543
這些家庭看起來就像
市區裡的一般建築，
市區裡的一般建築，
11:55
in the city, when you step inside,
271
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2318
但是當你往內走，
11:57
you are met with all manner of design decisions
272
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3863
你會碰到各式各樣的設計
12:01
and interior decoration.
273
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2267
和室內裝飾。
12:04
Despite having limited access to space and money,
274
712110
3164
僅管空間和收入有限，
12:07
the homes in the area are designed
275
715274
1879
這個地區的家庭都
12:09
with care and detail.
276
717153
1986
經過精心細緻的設計。
12:11
Every apartment is unique,
277
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2043
每間公寓都獨一無二，
12:13
and this individuality tells a story
278
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1793
而這樣的特質展現了
12:14
about each family's circumstances and values.
279
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每一個家庭的經濟情況和價值觀。
12:18
Many of these people take their homes
280
726101
2146
這裡的許多人把家庭
12:20
and interior spaces very seriously,
281
728247
3168
和室內空間看得很重要，
12:23
putting a lot of work and care
282
731415
1507
花了很大的力氣和精神，
12:24
into the details.
283
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1326
連細節都不放過。
12:26
The shared spaces are also treated in the same manner,
284
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3173
公共空間也同樣地精心布置，
12:29
where walls are decorated in faux marble patterns.
285
737421
3857
用人造大理石圖案的壁紙來裝飾。
12:33
But despite this elaborate decor,
286
741278
2983
除了這樣的精心擺設，
12:36
sometimes these apartments are used
287
744261
2554
有時候人們會以非常意想不到的方式
12:38
in very unexpected ways,
288
746815
1810
來使用這些公寓，
12:40
like this home which caught my attention
289
748625
2380
像是這戶人家讓我大開眼界，
12:43
while all the mud and the grass was literally
290
751005
3482
污泥和草幾乎
12:46
seeping out under the front door.
291
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2487
從前門縫底蔓延進來。
12:48
When I was let in, it appeared that this fifth-floor apartment
292
756974
3799
我被邀請入內後，
這棟五層樓高的公寓顯然
這棟五層樓高的公寓顯然
12:52
was being transformed into a complete animal farm,
293
760773
3308
被改造成一個牧場，
12:56
where six or seven cows stood grazing
294
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2891
裡面有六、七隻牛被養在
12:58
in what otherwise would be the living room.
295
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4672
本來應該是當作客廳的地方。
13:03
But then in the apartment across the hall
296
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3368
但是經過這個牛棚穿越門廊後，
13:07
from this cow shed lives a newly married couple
297
775012
2523
一對新婚夫妻住在一間
13:09
in what locals describe
298
777535
1826
當地人會形容
13:11
as one of the nicest apartments in the area.
299
779361
8121
這個區域最棒的公寓中。
13:19
The attention to this detail astonished me,
300
787482
3226
細緻的程度讓我瞠目結舌，
13:22
and as the owner of the home so proudly
301
790708
2671
主人家非常驕傲地
13:25
led me around this apartment,
302
793379
1986
邀請我參觀公寓，
13:27
from floor to ceiling, every part was decorated.
303
795365
3716
從地板到天花板，每一處都有裝飾。
13:31
But if it weren't for the strangely familiar
304
799081
3802
但是如果沒有那種奇怪、熟悉、
13:34
stomach-churning odor that constantly
305
802883
2863
讓人作噁的臭味不斷地
13:37
passes through the apartment,
306
805746
3445
飄散在整間公寓裡，
13:41
it would be easy to forget
307
809191
2593
你會很容易遺忘
13:43
that you are standing next to a cow shed
308
811784
2692
自己就站在牛棚旁邊，
13:46
and on top of a landfill.
309
814476
5497
還有垃圾堆上面。
13:51
What moved me the most was that despite
310
819973
2679
最讓我感動的是儘管
13:54
these seemingly inhospitable conditions,
311
822652
2034
這裡看似是不適合人居住的環境，
13:56
I was welcomed with open arms
312
824686
1793
我還是被張開雙臂邀請
13:58
into a home that was made with love, care,
313
826479
3926
進入這個以愛、關懷
和毫無保留的熱情
和毫無保留的熱情
14:02
and unreserved passion.
314
830405
2250
築成的家。
14:04
Let's move across the map to China,
315
832655
3384
讓我們移動到地圖另一端中國
14:08
to an area called Shanxi, Henan and Gansu.
316
836039
3887
境內的山西、河南和甘肅。
14:11
In a region famous for the soft, porous Loess Plateau soil,
317
839926
3690
這裡以土質疏鬆的黃土高原為名，
14:15
there lived until recently an estimated
318
843616
2683
最近一項估計指出那裡至少有
14:18
40 million people in these houses underground.
319
846299
3869
四千萬人住在地下屋裡，
14:22
These dwellings are called the yaodongs.
320
850168
2451
這些住所被稱為窯洞。
14:24
Through this architecture by subtraction,
321
852619
2190
透過這個消去的建築法，
14:26
these yaodongs are built literally inside of the soil.
322
854809
3587
這些窯洞可以說是蓋在土裡面。
14:30
In these villages, you see an entirely altered landscape,
323
858396
3874
在這些村子裡，你會看到
完全不同的景象，
完全不同的景象，
14:34
and hidden behind these mounds of dirt
324
862270
2746
藏在這些土壤中的是
14:37
are these square, rectangular houses
325
865016
2500
這些方形的屋子，
14:39
which sit seven meters below the ground.
326
867516
2591
位在地平面以下七尺深的泥土中。
14:42
When I asked people why they were digging
327
870107
1988
我問這些居民為什麼
14:44
their houses from the ground,
328
872095
1889
要向下挖房子，
14:45
they simply replied that they are poor wheat
329
873984
2023
他們只說了因為他們是種麥
14:48
and apple farmers who didn't have the money
330
876007
2180
和蘋果的窮農夫，沒有錢
14:50
to buy materials, and this digging out
331
878187
3401
買材料，這樣挖洞
14:53
was their most logical form of living.
332
881588
4468
是最符合常理的生活方式。
14:58
From Makoko to Zabbaleen, these communities
333
886056
2898
從馬可可到札巴林，這些社群
15:00
have approached the tasks of planning,
334
888954
1999
都著手計畫、
15:02
design and management of their communities
335
890953
2399
設計和管理社群的任務，
15:05
and neighborhoods in ways that respond
336
893352
2379
而整個街坊明確地反應了
15:07
specifically to their environment and circumstances.
337
895731
3910
他們的環境與處境。
15:11
Created by these very people who live,
338
899641
2231
由在這些特殊地點居住、
15:13
work and play in these particular spaces,
339
901872
3711
工作和玩耍的在地居民打造，
15:17
these neighborhoods are intuitively designed
340
905583
2997
他們用最直接的想法
15:20
to make the most of their circumstances.
341
908580
3038
設計最合適的居住環境。
15:23
In most of these places, the government
342
911618
1905
這些大部分都是政府
15:25
is completely absent, leaving inhabitants
343
913523
2529
完全缺席的地方，讓居民
15:28
with no choice but to reappropriate found materials,
344
916052
3919
毫無選擇地只好
以現有的材料打造居所。
以現有的材料打造居所。
15:31
and while these communities are highly disadvantaged,
345
919971
2972
在這些社群一無所有的情況下，
15:34
they do present examples
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他們會展現
15:36
of brilliant forms of ingenuity,
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智慧與巧思，
15:39
and prove that indeed we have the ability
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證明我們真的有能力
15:41
to adapt to all manner of circumstances.
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適應各種環境。
15:45
What makes places like the Torre David
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讓多瑞大衛高樓這種地方
15:47
particularly remarkable
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顯得格外特別的原因是因為
15:49
is this sort of skeleton framework
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這些現成的建築架構
15:51
where people can have a foundation
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讓人們有一個
15:52
where they can tap into.
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能夠開始著手的基礎。
15:54
Now imagine what these already ingenious communities
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想像這些聰穎的社群
15:57
could create themselves,
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可以為自己創造什麼，
16:00
and how highly particular their solutions would be,
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他們的解決方式可能多特別，
16:02
if they were given the basic infrastructures
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而前提是他們只有很基礎的建設
16:05
that they could tap into.
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可以運用。
16:07
Today, you see these large residential development projects
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今天，你看到這些大型的住宅發展計畫
16:10
which offer cookie-cutter housing solutions
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為面對居住問題的人們
16:13
to massive amounts of people.
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提供千篇一律的解決辦法。
16:15
From China to Brazil, these projects attempt
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從中國到巴西，這些計畫嘗試
16:17
to provide as many houses as possible,
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盡可能提供更多的住宅，
16:20
but they're completely generic
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但是那全都只是
普遍一視同仁的作法，
普遍一視同仁的作法，
16:23
and simply do not work as an answer
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這樣的方式
16:24
to the individual needs of the people.
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不能滿足每個人不同的需求。
16:28
I would like to end with a quote
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我想以一句引言做結，
16:30
from a friend of mine and a source of inspiration,
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來自我的朋友，也是我的靈感來源，
16:33
Zita Cobb, the founder of the wonderful
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澤塔．科布，她是傑出的
16:36
Shorefast Foundation,
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Shorefast 基金會的創辦人，
16:38
based out of Fogo Island, Newfoundland.
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位於紐芬蘭的福戈島。
16:41
She says that "there's this plague of sameness
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她說：「是這種一成不變的瘟疫
16:44
which is killing the human joy,"
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正在扼殺人類的樂趣。」
16:46
and I couldn't agree with her more.
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我非常認同這一點。
16:48
Thank you.
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謝謝！
16:49
(Applause)
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（掌聲）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Iwan Baan - Urban documentarianPhotographer Iwan Baan captures the many ways people shape their shared built environment -- from glossy starchitecture to handmade homes.
Why you should listen
Iwan Baan's interest in human connection is reflected in his ability to shift from architectural photographer to documentarian. In his photos of informal communities around the world, he shows how vernacular architecture and placemaking serve as examples of human ingenuity. His photography is a window into the world around us.
Iwan Baan | Speaker | TED.com