TEDYouth 2015
Danit Peleg: Forget shopping. Soon you'll download your new clothes
丹尼特．皮莱格: 别逛街了！很快你就能从网络下载打印你的衣服了。
Filmed:
Readability: 3.9
1,815,304 views
可下载打印的衣服在将来也许会随处可见。这些衣服可能是从丹尼特．皮莱格在时尚学校的课题项目转变成3D打印的时尚作品设计开始的，而它能赋予我们的日常服饰韧性与弹性。 " 时尚流行是非常具有实体物质性的"，她说，" 我在想，当我们的衣服数码化后，这世界看起来会是怎样？ "
Danit Peleg - Fashion designer
Danit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers. Full bio
Danit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:06
In the past few months, I've been
traveling for weeks at a time
traveling for weeks at a time
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过去几个月中，我一直在旅行，
一次就好几个礼拜，
一次就好几个礼拜，
00:10
with only one suitcase of clothes.
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只带一手提箱的衣服。
00:12
One day, I was invited
to an important event,
to an important event,
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有一天，我被邀请去参加
一个重要的活动，
一个重要的活动，
我想要为这个活动
穿戴一些特别的服饰。
穿戴一些特别的服饰。
00:14
and I wanted to wear
something special and new for it.
something special and new for it.
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00:17
So I looked through my suitcase
and I couldn't find anything to wear.
and I couldn't find anything to wear.
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所以我翻遍了我的手提箱，
但却找不到一件可以穿的。
但却找不到一件可以穿的。
很幸运，在那一天
我被邀请参加科技论坛，
我被邀请参加科技论坛，
00:21
I was lucky to be at the technology
conference on that day,
conference on that day,
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有机会接触到了3D打印机。
00:24
and I had access to 3D printers.
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所以我很快就在
电脑上设计了一条裙子，
电脑上设计了一条裙子，
00:27
So I quickly designed
a skirt on my computer,
a skirt on my computer,
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然后我把它上传到打印机。
00:29
and I loaded the file on the printer.
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00:31
It just printed the pieces overnight.
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过了一个晚上就打印好了。
00:34
The next morning,
I just took all the pieces,
I just took all the pieces,
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隔天早上，我就拿到全部部件了，
我在饭店房间把它们拼凑起来，
00:36
assembled them together in my hotel room,
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也就是我现在正在穿的这条。
00:38
and this is actually the skirt
that I'm wearing right now.
that I'm wearing right now.
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( 掌声 )
00:41
(Applause)
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但这不是我第一次打印服装了。
00:45
So it wasn't the first time
that I printed clothes.
that I printed clothes.
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为了完成我在时尚设计学校的
高年级服饰作品，
高年级服饰作品，
00:47
For my senior collection
at fashion design school,
at fashion design school,
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00:50
I decided to try and 3D print
an entire fashion collection from my home.
an entire fashion collection from my home.
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我决定在家里尝试3D打印出
我所有的服装设计作品。
我所有的服装设计作品。
00:55
The problem was that I barely knew
anything about 3D printing,
anything about 3D printing,
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问题是，我一点都不懂3D打印。
而我只有9个月的时间来打印出
五件看上去还算流行的服饰。
五件看上去还算流行的服饰。
00:58
and I had only nine months to figure out
how to print five fashionable looks.
how to print five fashionable looks.
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我总觉得在家工作时最有灵感。
01:04
I always felt most creative
when I worked from home.
when I worked from home.
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01:07
I loved experimenting with new materials,
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我喜欢实验新的材质，
而且我总是尝试研发新的技术，
01:09
and I always tried
to develop new techniques
to develop new techniques
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来为我的时尚课题
打造最独特的布料。
打造最独特的布料。
01:12
to make the most unique textiles
for my fashion projects.
for my fashion projects.
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我喜欢去旧工厂和猎奇杂货店，
01:16
I loved going to old factories
and weird stores
and weird stores
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01:18
in search of leftovers
of strange powders and weird materials,
of strange powders and weird materials,
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去找各种少见的粉末和材质的边角料，
然后把它们带回家做实验。
01:23
and then bring them home to experiment on.
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你们大概可以想像，
01:26
As you can probably imagine,
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我的室友对此很不爽....
01:27
my roommates didn't like that at all.
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( 笑声 )
01:29
(Laughter)
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01:30
So I decided to move on
to working with big machines,
to working with big machines,
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所以我决定用大型机器进行尝试，
每一台都大到无法放进我房间。
01:34
ones that didn't fit in my living room.
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我喜欢所有时尚科技带给我的
01:36
I love the exact
and the custom work I can do
and the custom work I can do
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01:39
with all kinds of fashion technologies,
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精密及个性化的工作，
01:41
like knitting machines
and laser cutting and silk printing.
and laser cutting and silk printing.
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像是纺织机，激光切割和丝绸打印。
01:45
One summer break, I came here
to New York for an internship
to New York for an internship
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有一个暑假，我来到纽约
中国城的一间流行服饰店
中国城的一间流行服饰店
01:49
at a fashion house in Chinatown.
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做实习工作。
我们3D打印了
两件无与伦比的婚纱作品。
两件无与伦比的婚纱作品。
01:51
We worked on two incredible dresses
that were 3D printed.
that were 3D printed.
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01:56
They were amazing --
like you can see here.
like you can see here.
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就如你们所看到的，
它们真的很惊艳。
它们真的很惊艳。
但我对它们不是很满意，
01:59
But I had a few issues with them.
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它们是由硬塑料制成的，
所以非常的容易碎裂。
所以非常的容易碎裂。
02:00
They were made from hard plastics
and that's why they were very breakable.
and that's why they were very breakable.
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模特儿不能坐在婚纱上面，
02:05
The models couldn't sit in them,
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02:06
and they even got scratched
from the plastics under their arms.
from the plastics under their arms.
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她们的手臂下方甚至会被塑料刮伤。
02:10
With 3D printing, the designers
had so much freedom
had so much freedom
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3D打印技术的确给了
设计师们很大的自由空间，
设计师们很大的自由空间，
可以让婚纱看起来
与他们构想中的一模一样，
与他们构想中的一模一样，
02:13
to make the dresses look
exactly like they wanted,
exactly like they wanted,
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但他们仍需依靠大型且
昂贵的打印机器来实现这一切，
昂贵的打印机器来实现这一切，
02:17
but still, they were very dependent
on big and expensive industrial printers
on big and expensive industrial printers
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02:22
that were located in a lab
far from their studio.
far from their studio.
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而且这些机器离他们的工作室很远。
那年晚些时候，有一个朋友
给了我一条3D打印的项链，
给了我一条3D打印的项链，
02:26
Later that year, a friend gave me
a 3D printed necklace,
a 3D printed necklace,
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它是用家用的打印机打印的。
02:30
printed using a home printer.
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我知道这些打印机比较便宜，
02:32
I knew that these printers
were much cheaper
were much cheaper
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02:34
and much more accessible
than the ones we used at my internship.
than the ones we used at my internship.
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比起我当实习生时的那几台机器，
家用的也更好操作。
家用的也更好操作。
我盯着项链看，
02:38
So I looked at the necklace,
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然后就想，
" 如果我可以在家里打印一条项链，
" 如果我可以在家里打印一条项链，
02:39
and then I thought, "If I can
print a necklace from home,
print a necklace from home,
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那为什么不在家里
也打印我的服饰？ "
也打印我的服饰？ "
02:43
why not print my clothes from home, too?"
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02:46
I really liked the idea that I wouldn't
have to go to the market
have to go to the market
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我真的很喜欢这个想法——
02:49
and pick fabrics that
someone else chose to sell --
someone else chose to sell --
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我不用再去商店买
别人挑来卖的布料——
别人挑来卖的布料——
02:52
I could just design them
and print them directly from home.
and print them directly from home.
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我只要在家里设计，然后把它们
直接打印出来就可以了。
直接打印出来就可以了。
我找到一个小型创作者工作室，
02:57
I found a small makerspace,
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在那里学到了所有我需要的
3D打印技术。
3D打印技术。
02:59
where I learned everything
I know about 3D printing.
I know about 3D printing.
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很快地，
他们直接给了我实验室的钥匙，
他们直接给了我实验室的钥匙，
03:02
Right away, they literally
gave me the key to the lab,
gave me the key to the lab,
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03:05
so I could experiment
into the night, every night.
into the night, every night.
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所以我可以每一个晚上
钻研到深夜。
钻研到深夜。
03:08
The main challenge was to find the right
filament for printing clothes with.
filament for printing clothes with.
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主要的挑战是，
要找到正确的"丝料"来印衣服。
要找到正确的"丝料"来印衣服。
那什么是"丝料"呢?
03:12
So what is a filament?
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03:13
Filament is the material
you feed the printer with.
you feed the printer with.
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"丝料"就是一种
你喂给打印机的材料。
你喂给打印机的材料。
03:16
And I spent a month or so
experimenting with PLA,
experimenting with PLA,
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我花了一个月的时间用PLA做实验，
( PLA：聚乳酸纤维）
( PLA：聚乳酸纤维）
03:19
which is a hard and scratchy,
breakable material.
breakable material.
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它是一种很硬又容易碎裂的材料。
而当我了解了Filaflex后，
就有了突破性的进展，
就有了突破性的进展，
03:23
The breakthrough came
when I was introduced to Filaflex,
when I was introduced to Filaflex,
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Filaflex是一种新型丝料。
03:25
which is a new kind of filament.
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它很结实，但也很有弹性。
03:27
It's strong, yet very flexible.
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有了它，我就可以打印
我的第一件衣服了，
我的第一件衣服了，
03:29
And with it, I was able to print
the first garment,
the first garment,
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这件红色夹克有个名字
叫" Liberté"——
叫" Liberté"——
03:33
the red jacket that had
the word "Liberté" --
the word "Liberté" --
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在法语中是"自由"的意思——
03:37
"freedom" in French --
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03:38
embedded into it.
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被融入了我的这个设计中。
03:39
I chose this word because I felt
so empowered and free
so empowered and free
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我选择这个字的原因是：
03:42
when I could just design
a garment from my home
a garment from my home
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当我可以在家设计
并打印自己的衣服时，
并打印自己的衣服时，
03:44
and then print it by myself.
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我觉得很有自主性，也很自由。
03:47
And actually, you can easily
download this jacket,
download this jacket,
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实际上，你可以直接
下载这件夹克，
下载这件夹克，
还可以随意把里面的字
换成其他东西。
换成其他东西。
03:51
and easily change the word
to something else.
to something else.
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03:53
For example, your name
or your sweetheart's name.
or your sweetheart's name.
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例如，你自己的名字，
或你心爱的人的名字。
或你心爱的人的名字。
03:57
(Laughter)
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( 笑声 )
打印机的工作平台很小，
03:58
So the printer plates are small,
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04:00
so I had to piece the garment
together, just like a puzzle.
together, just like a puzzle.
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所以我必须把它们拼凑起来，
就像拼图一样。
就像拼图一样。
而我还想解决另一项挑战。
04:05
And I wanted to solve another challenge.
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04:08
I wanted to print textiles
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我想打印纺织物，
而且能像一般的布料一样使用它们。
04:09
that I would use
just like regular fabrics.
just like regular fabrics.
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我找到了一份开源资料档案，
04:12
That's when I found an open-source file
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它是由一个建筑师设计的，
这图案我很喜欢。
这图案我很喜欢。
04:14
from an architect who designed
a pattern that I love.
a pattern that I love.
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04:16
And with it, I was able to print
a beautiful textile
a beautiful textile
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有了它，
我就可以打印出漂亮的纺织品，
我就可以打印出漂亮的纺织品，
就如同使用一般的布料一样。
04:19
that I would use
just like a regular fabric.
just like a regular fabric.
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04:22
And it actually even looks
a little bit like lace.
a little bit like lace.
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它看起来甚至有点像蕾丝。
于是，我参考了他的资源档，
试着变更并改良它——
试着变更并改良它——
04:26
So I took his file and I modified it,
and changed it, played with it --
and changed it, played with it --
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我折腾出了很多种类的版本。
04:30
many kinds of versions out of it.
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04:33
And I needed to print
another 1,500 more hours
another 1,500 more hours
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我还需要额外的1500小时
04:37
to complete printing my collection.
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来打印完成我的作品。
04:40
So I brought six printers to my home
and just printed 24-7.
and just printed 24-7.
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所以我买了6台打印机回家，
每天24小时不停地打印。
每天24小时不停地打印。
这真是一个很漫长的过程，
04:44
And this is actually
a really slow process,
a really slow process,
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04:47
but let's remember the Internet
was significantly slower 20 years ago,
was significantly slower 20 years ago,
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但不要忘了，
20年前的互联网也是相当慢的，
20年前的互联网也是相当慢的，
04:51
so 3D printing will also accelerate
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所以3D打印也会实现加速，
04:53
and in no time you'll be able to print
a T-Shirt in your home
a T-Shirt in your home
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而你在不久的将来就能
在家里打印你的体恤衫，
在家里打印你的体恤衫，
04:56
in just a couple of hours,
or even minutes.
or even minutes.
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只要几小时，甚至几分钟。
那么各位想看看它长什么样子吗？
05:00
So you guys, you want to see
what it looks like?
what it looks like?
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05:02
Audience: Yeah!
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观众：想!
05:03
(Applause)
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( 掌声 )
丹尼特．皮莱格：
现在Rebecca正穿着我五件设计中的一件。
现在Rebecca正穿着我五件设计中的一件。
05:07
Danit Peleg: Rebecca is wearing
one of my five outfits.
one of my five outfits.
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05:11
Almost everything here she's wearing,
I printed from my home.
I printed from my home.
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她身上穿的每样东西几乎都是
我在家打印出来的，
我在家打印出来的，
连她的鞋子也是。
05:16
Even her shoes are printed.
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观众：哇 !
05:18
Audience: Wow!
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05:20
Audience: Cool!
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观众：酷 !
( 掌声 )
05:23
(Applause)
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谢谢你，Rebecca。
05:25
Danit Peleg: Thank you, Rebecca.
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（面向观众）谢谢各位。
05:27
(To audience) Thank you, guys.
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所以我认为将来材质会不断进化，
05:30
So I think in the future,
materials will evolve,
materials will evolve,
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05:32
and they will look and feel
like fabrics we know today,
like fabrics we know today,
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而且它们看起来、感觉起来
会很像我们已知的布料，
会很像我们已知的布料，
05:36
like cotton or silk.
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比如棉花或丝绸。
05:38
Imagine personalized clothes
that fit exactly to your measurements.
that fit exactly to your measurements.
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想像一下，
你设计的个性化服饰将完全合身。
你设计的个性化服饰将完全合身。
音乐曾经也是一种实体，
05:45
Music was once a very physical thing.
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05:47
You would have to go
to the record shop and buy CDs,
to the record shop and buy CDs,
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你必须去音像店里买CD碟，
但现在你可以直接下载——
05:50
but now you can just download the music --
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数码音乐——
05:52
digital music --
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到你的手机里。
05:53
directly to your phone.
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流行时尚也是一种实体，
05:56
Fashion is also a very physical thing.
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而我很想知道，
当我们的衣服全部数码化之后，
当我们的衣服全部数码化之后，
05:58
And I wonder what our world will look like
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就像这条裙子，
我们的世界将会怎样？
我们的世界将会怎样？
06:01
when our clothes will be digital,
just like this skirt is.
just like this skirt is.
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06:05
Thank you so much.
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非常谢谢你们。
( 掌声 )
06:06
(Applause)
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06:08
[Thank You]
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（谢谢）
06:09
(Applause)
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( 掌声 )
Translated by Yi-Fan Yu
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Danit Peleg - Fashion designerDanit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers.
Why you should listen
Danit Peleg has always been interested in the influence of technology on fashion design. For her projects, she develops her own textiles and experiments with various technologies such as laser cutting, screen-printing and 3D printing.
Peleg believes that technology will help democratize fashion and give designers more independence in the creation process. She graduated from Shenkar in 2015 and now advises designers and fashion houses on new technologies.
Danit Peleg | Speaker | TED.com