TEDYouth 2015
Danit Peleg: Forget shopping. Soon you'll download your new clothes
丹尼特．皮萊格: 別逛街了！很快的你就可以從網路下載新衣服了
Filmed:
Readability: 3.9
1,815,304 views
可下載列印的衣服也許將在不久的未來，來到你的身邊。這一切開始於設計師丹尼特．皮萊格，她把 3D 列印技術應用在她的專案設計，並做出了像每日穿著的衣服那樣擁有韌性與彈性的服飾。「時尚是個非常實質的東西，」她說：「 我很好奇，當我們的衣服數位化後，這世界看起來會是怎樣的？」
Danit Peleg - Fashion designer
Danit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers. Full bio
Danit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
在過去幾個月，我都在旅行
每次好幾個禮拜，
每次好幾個禮拜，
00:06
In the past few months, I've been
traveling for weeks at a time
traveling for weeks at a time
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我只帶一箱手提箱的衣服。
00:10
with only one suitcase of clothes.
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00:12
One day, I was invited
to an important event,
to an important event,
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某天，我受邀出席一個重要活動，
00:14
and I wanted to wear
something special and new for it.
something special and new for it.
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我想在活動上
穿一些新穎和特別的服飾。
穿一些新穎和特別的服飾。
00:17
So I looked through my suitcase
and I couldn't find anything to wear.
and I couldn't find anything to wear.
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所以我翻遍了手提箱，
但找不到一件合適的。
但找不到一件合適的。
幸運的是那天
被邀請參加是一次科技論壇，
被邀請參加是一次科技論壇，
00:21
I was lucky to be at the technology
conference on that day,
conference on that day,
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00:24
and I had access to 3D printers.
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由此我接觸到了3D列印機。
00:27
So I quickly designed
a skirt on my computer,
a skirt on my computer,
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所以我很快地在我的
電腦上設計了一條裙子。
電腦上設計了一條裙子。
00:29
and I loaded the file on the printer.
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然我把它上傳到列印機，
00:31
It just printed the pieces overnight.
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讓它整晚列印衣服的部位。
00:34
The next morning,
I just took all the pieces,
I just took all the pieces,
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隔天早上，
我拿到所有部位了，
我拿到所有部位了，
00:36
assembled them together in my hotel room,
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並在酒店房間把它們拼湊起來，
00:38
and this is actually the skirt
that I'm wearing right now.
that I'm wearing right now.
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而那件裙子，
正是我現在穿著的這一件。
正是我現在穿著的這一件。
00:41
(Applause)
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( 掌聲 )
00:45
So it wasn't the first time
that I printed clothes.
that I printed clothes.
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但這不是我第一次列印服裝。
00:47
For my senior collection
at fashion design school,
at fashion design school,
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為了完成我在時裝設計學校
的高年級服飾作品，
的高年級服飾作品，
00:50
I decided to try and 3D print
an entire fashion collection from my home.
an entire fashion collection from my home.
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我決定在家嘗試用3D 列印
所有的時裝設計。
所有的時裝設計。
00:55
The problem was that I barely knew
anything about 3D printing,
anything about 3D printing,
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問題是，
我一點都不懂3D列印。
我一點都不懂3D列印。
00:58
and I had only nine months to figure out
how to print five fashionable looks.
how to print five fashionable looks.
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而我只有9個月時間去想
如何列印出五件時尚服飾。
如何列印出五件時尚服飾。
01:04
I always felt most creative
when I worked from home.
when I worked from home.
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我總覺得在家工作時最有靈感。
01:07
I loved experimenting with new materials,
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我喜歡實驗新的材質，
01:09
and I always tried
to develop new techniques
to develop new techniques
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而且我總是嘗試研發新的技術
01:12
to make the most unique textiles
for my fashion projects.
for my fashion projects.
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為我的時尚專案製作
最獨特的布料。
最獨特的布料。
我喜歡到舊工廠和奇特的商店
01:16
I loved going to old factories
and weird stores
and weird stores
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01:18
in search of leftovers
of strange powders and weird materials,
of strange powders and weird materials,
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去尋找殘餘的奇特粉末
和奇怪材質，
和奇怪材質，
01:23
and then bring them home to experiment on.
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然後把它們帶回家做實驗。
所以你大概可以想像，
01:26
As you can probably imagine,
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01:27
my roommates didn't like that at all.
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我的室友很不爽....
01:29
(Laughter)
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( 笑聲 )
01:30
So I decided to move on
to working with big machines,
to working with big machines,
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所以我決定搬去跟
大型機器一起工作，
大型機器一起工作，
01:34
ones that didn't fit in my living room.
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每一台都大到無法放進我房間。
01:36
I love the exact
and the custom work I can do
and the custom work I can do
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我喜歡所有時尚科技的
精密及客製化工作，
精密及客製化工作，
01:39
with all kinds of fashion technologies,
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01:41
like knitting machines
and laser cutting and silk printing.
and laser cutting and silk printing.
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像是：紡織機、雷射切割、絲綢列印。
01:45
One summer break, I came here
to New York for an internship
to New York for an internship
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某個暑假我來到紐約
中國城的一間時尚店實習
中國城的一間時尚店實習
01:49
at a fashion house in Chinatown.
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我們用 3D 列印做了
2 件不可思議的禮服。
2 件不可思議的禮服。
01:51
We worked on two incredible dresses
that were 3D printed.
that were 3D printed.
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01:56
They were amazing --
like you can see here.
like you can see here.
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正如你們所看到的，
它們非常美妙，
它們非常美妙，
但我對它們有一些意見，
01:59
But I had a few issues with them.
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02:00
They were made from hard plastics
and that's why they were very breakable.
and that's why they were very breakable.
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它們是由硬塑料製成，
所以非常的" 脆裂 "。
所以非常的" 脆裂 "。
模特兒穿上后就不能坐下，
02:05
The models couldn't sit in them,
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02:06
and they even got scratched
from the plastics under their arms.
from the plastics under their arms.
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模特兒們甚至被手臂下
的塑料刮傷。
的塑料刮傷。
02:10
With 3D printing, the designers
had so much freedom
had so much freedom
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有了3D列印，
設計師有更多自由
設計師有更多自由
02:13
to make the dresses look
exactly like they wanted,
exactly like they wanted,
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可以讓禮服
變成他們想象中的樣子，
變成他們想象中的樣子，
02:17
but still, they were very dependent
on big and expensive industrial printers
on big and expensive industrial printers
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但他們仍需仰賴大型且
昂貴的列印機器，
昂貴的列印機器，
02:22
that were located in a lab
far from their studio.
far from their studio.
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且機器離他們的工作室很遠。
那年下半年，有一個朋友
給我一條3D列印的項鍊，
給我一條3D列印的項鍊，
02:26
Later that year, a friend gave me
a 3D printed necklace,
a 3D printed necklace,
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02:30
printed using a home printer.
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是用家用的列印機列印出來的。
02:32
I knew that these printers
were much cheaper
were much cheaper
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我知道這些列印機比較便宜，
02:34
and much more accessible
than the ones we used at my internship.
than the ones we used at my internship.
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比起我當實習生時的那幾台
更易操作。
更易操作。
我盯著項鍊看，
02:38
So I looked at the necklace,
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02:39
and then I thought, "If I can
print a necklace from home,
print a necklace from home,
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然後我在想，
" 如果可以在家裡列印項鍊，
" 如果可以在家裡列印項鍊，
02:43
why not print my clothes from home, too?"
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那為何不在家
列印我的服飾？ "
列印我的服飾？ "
02:46
I really liked the idea that I wouldn't
have to go to the market
have to go to the market
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我真的很喜歡這個想法--
我不用去賣場
買別人選來賣的布料，
買別人選來賣的布料，
02:49
and pick fabrics that
someone else chose to sell --
someone else chose to sell --
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02:52
I could just design them
and print them directly from home.
and print them directly from home.
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只要在家裡設計然後把它們
直接列印出來。
直接列印出來。
我找到一個小型創作者工作室，
02:57
I found a small makerspace,
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02:59
where I learned everything
I know about 3D printing.
I know about 3D printing.
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在這我學到所有3D列印的知識。
03:02
Right away, they literally
gave me the key to the lab,
gave me the key to the lab,
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很快地，
他們直接給我實驗室的鑰匙，
他們直接給我實驗室的鑰匙，
03:05
so I could experiment
into the night, every night.
into the night, every night.
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所以我可以每一個晚上
實驗到很晚。
實驗到很晚。
03:08
The main challenge was to find the right
filament for printing clothes with.
filament for printing clothes with.
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主要的挑戰是，
找到正確的" 絲料 "印衣服。
找到正確的" 絲料 "印衣服。
03:12
So what is a filament?
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那甚麼是" 絲料 "呢?
03:13
Filament is the material
you feed the printer with.
you feed the printer with.
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" 絲料 "就是
你餵給列印機的材質。
你餵給列印機的材質。
03:16
And I spent a month or so
experimenting with PLA,
experimenting with PLA,
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我花了一個月的時間
用聚乳酸（PLA）來做實驗，
用聚乳酸（PLA）來做實驗，
03:19
which is a hard and scratchy,
breakable material.
breakable material.
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它是一種又硬又糙
且脆裂的材料。
且脆裂的材料。
當我被引薦使用Filaflex後，
才有了突破性的發展，
才有了突破性的發展，
03:23
The breakthrough came
when I was introduced to Filaflex,
when I was introduced to Filaflex,
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03:25
which is a new kind of filament.
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Filaflex是一種新型絲料
03:27
It's strong, yet very flexible.
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它雖然堅固，但很有彈性。
03:29
And with it, I was able to print
the first garment,
the first garment,
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有了它，我就可以列印
第一件衣服了，
第一件衣服了，
03:33
the red jacket that had
the word "Liberté" --
the word "Liberté" --
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這件紅色夾克名字叫" Liberté "
是法語" 自由 "的意思，
03:37
"freedom" in French --
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03:38
embedded into it.
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我把這個字設計在衣服裡。
03:39
I chose this word because I felt
so empowered and free
so empowered and free
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我選擇這個字的原因是：
當我可以在家設計衣服
並自己列印出來時
並自己列印出來時
03:42
when I could just design
a garment from my home
a garment from my home
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03:44
and then print it by myself.
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我覺的極具自主性及自由性，
03:47
And actually, you can easily
download this jacket,
download this jacket,
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實際上，你可以很輕易地
下載這件夾克，
下載這件夾克，
03:51
and easily change the word
to something else.
to something else.
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且可以隨意把裡面的字換掉。
03:53
For example, your name
or your sweetheart's name.
or your sweetheart's name.
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例如，你自己的名字，
或你愛的人的名字
或你愛的人的名字
03:57
(Laughter)
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( 笑聲 )
列印機的工作平台很小，
03:58
So the printer plates are small,
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04:00
so I had to piece the garment
together, just like a puzzle.
together, just like a puzzle.
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所以我必須把它們拼湊起來，
像在拼圖一樣
像在拼圖一樣
而我想解決另一項挑戰。
04:05
And I wanted to solve another challenge.
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04:08
I wanted to print textiles
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我想列印紡織物。
04:09
that I would use
just like regular fabrics.
just like regular fabrics.
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就像我使用一般的布料一樣。
04:12
That's when I found an open-source file
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這是我在開放資源裡找到的，
04:14
from an architect who designed
a pattern that I love.
a pattern that I love.
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一個由建築師設計
的" love "的圖案。
的" love "的圖案。
04:16
And with it, I was able to print
a beautiful textile
a beautiful textile
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有了它我可以列印出
漂亮的紡織物，
漂亮的紡織物，
04:19
that I would use
just like a regular fabric.
just like a regular fabric.
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就如同我會使用一般的布料一樣。
04:22
And it actually even looks
a little bit like lace.
a little bit like lace.
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它實際上看起來更像蕾絲。
所以我拿了他的檔案
變更並改良它，
變更並改良它，
04:26
So I took his file and I modified it,
and changed it, played with it --
and changed it, played with it --
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04:30
many kinds of versions out of it.
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我玩出了很多種類的版本。
04:33
And I needed to print
another 1,500 more hours
another 1,500 more hours
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我需要額外的1500小時
來列印完成我的作品。
來列印完成我的作品。
04:37
to complete printing my collection.
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04:40
So I brought six printers to my home
and just printed 24-7.
and just printed 24-7.
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所以我買了6台列印機回家，
一週24小時不停列印。
一週24小時不停列印。
這實際上是一個很慢的過程，
04:44
And this is actually
a really slow process,
a really slow process,
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04:47
but let's remember the Internet
was significantly slower 20 years ago,
was significantly slower 20 years ago,
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但我們回憶一下
20年前網際網路也是相當慢的，
20年前網際網路也是相當慢的，
04:51
so 3D printing will also accelerate
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所以3D列印也將會加快速度，
04:53
and in no time you'll be able to print
a T-Shirt in your home
a T-Shirt in your home
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而在不久的將來
你便在家裡列印T-恤了，
你便在家裡列印T-恤了，
04:56
in just a couple of hours,
or even minutes.
or even minutes.
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只需幾小時或是幾分鐘。
所以各位想看看它長甚麼樣子嗎？
05:00
So you guys, you want to see
what it looks like?
what it looks like?
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05:02
Audience: Yeah!
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觀眾：想!
05:03
(Applause)
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( 掌聲 )
Rebecca 正穿著
我五件設計的其中之一。
我五件設計的其中之一。
05:07
Danit Peleg: Rebecca is wearing
one of my five outfits.
one of my five outfits.
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05:11
Almost everything here she's wearing,
I printed from my home.
I printed from my home.
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她身上穿的服飾
都是我在家中列印出來的，
都是我在家中列印出來的，
甚至她的鞋子。
05:16
Even her shoes are printed.
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05:18
Audience: Wow!
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觀眾：哇 !
05:20
Audience: Cool!
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觀眾：酷 !
( 掌聲 )
05:23
(Applause)
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05:25
Danit Peleg: Thank you, Rebecca.
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謝謝你，Rebecca
( 面向觀眾 )謝謝各位。
05:27
(To audience) Thank you, guys.
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所以我認為未來
會有很多材質引入，
會有很多材質引入，
05:30
So I think in the future,
materials will evolve,
materials will evolve,
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05:32
and they will look and feel
like fabrics we know today,
like fabrics we know today,
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而且它們的觀感和觸感
會與現在的那些，
會與現在的那些，
05:36
like cotton or silk.
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棉花或絲綢材質一樣。
05:38
Imagine personalized clothes
that fit exactly to your measurements.
that fit exactly to your measurements.
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想像一下一件
和你完全貼合的客製化衣服。
和你完全貼合的客製化衣服。
音樂曾經是個非常實質的東西，
05:45
Music was once a very physical thing.
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05:47
You would have to go
to the record shop and buy CDs,
to the record shop and buy CDs,
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你必須去錄音帶店裡買CD，
05:50
but now you can just download the music --
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但現在你可以直接下載
數位音樂到你的手機
05:52
digital music --
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05:53
directly to your phone.
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時尚也是個非常實質的東西，
05:56
Fashion is also a very physical thing.
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而我很好奇，
05:58
And I wonder what our world will look like
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當我們的衣服像這條裙子一樣
數位化後...
數位化後...
06:01
when our clothes will be digital,
just like this skirt is.
just like this skirt is.
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我們的世界將會是怎樣的？
非常謝謝你們。
06:05
Thank you so much.
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06:06
(Applause)
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( 掌聲 )
06:08
[Thank You]
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Danit Peleg - Fashion designerDanit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers.
Why you should listen
Danit Peleg has always been interested in the influence of technology on fashion design. For her projects, she develops her own textiles and experiments with various technologies such as laser cutting, screen-printing and 3D printing.
Peleg believes that technology will help democratize fashion and give designers more independence in the creation process. She graduated from Shenkar in 2015 and now advises designers and fashion houses on new technologies.
Danit Peleg | Speaker | TED.com