TEDMED 2009
Ken Kamler: Medical miracle on Everest
Ken Kamler：珠穆朗玛峰上的医学奇迹
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当珠穆朗玛登山史上最惨重的灾难发生时，Ken Kamler是在场的唯一医生。在TEDMED，他分享了登山者们在极端条件下所展开的难以置信的搏斗，并且利用大脑成像技术重现了一位登山者被埋在雪中36个小时后却依旧存活下来的医学奇迹。
Ken Kamler - Adventure physician
Ken Kamler has served as doctor on some of the world’s most daring expeditions, but also performs delicate microsurgery when at home in New York. Full bio
Ken Kamler has served as doctor on some of the world’s most daring expeditions, but also performs delicate microsurgery when at home in New York. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
OK. We've heard a lot of people
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在这次的会议上，
00:18
speak at this conference
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我们已经听到了很多人
00:20
about the power of the human mind.
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讲解人类意志的力量。
00:23
And what I'd like to do today
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而我今天想做的
00:25
is give you a vivid example
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就是带给你们一个鲜明的例子，
00:27
of how that power can be unleashed
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它展示人们是如何在亟需生存的环境下
00:29
when someone is in a survival situation,
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释放这种力量的，
00:32
how the will to survive can bring that out in people.
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以及这种力量是如何被生存的欲望所激发。
00:36
This is an incident which occurred on Mount Everest;
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这是发生在珠穆朗玛峰上的一个事件。
00:39
it was the worst disaster in the history of Everest.
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它是珠穆朗玛历史上最惨重的灾难。
00:43
And when it occurred, I was the only doctor on the mountain.
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灾难发生时，我是珠峰上唯一的医生。
00:46
So I'll take you through that
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所以我将带领你们重温那次灾难，
00:48
and we'll see what it's like
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身临其境地去感受一下。
00:51
when someone really
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当人们唤醒自身对生存的渴求时，
00:53
summons the will to survive.
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究竟是怎样的一种情形。
00:55
OK, this is Mount Everest.
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这就是珠穆朗玛峰。
00:57
It's 29,035 feet high.
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海拔29035英尺。
00:59
I've been there six times: Four times I did work with National Geographic,
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我总共去过那里六次。四次是跟着国家地理
01:02
making tectonic plate measurements;
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丈量构造板块。
01:04
twice, I went with NASA
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两次是跟着美国航天局
01:06
doing remote sensing devices.
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研究远程感测系统。
01:09
It was on my fourth trip to Everest
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在我第四次珠穆朗玛之行的时候，
01:11
that a comet passed over the mountain. Hyakutake.
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一个彗星，百武彗星划过峰顶。
01:14
And the Sherpas told us then
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随行的夏尔巴人告诉我们
01:16
that was a very bad omen,
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这是个凶兆，
01:18
and we should have listened to them.
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事后想想，我们真应该听从他们的意见。
01:20
Everest is an extreme environment.
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珠穆朗玛是个极端的环境。
01:23
There's only one-third as much oxygen at the summit as there is at sea level.
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峰顶的氧气只是海平面的三分之一。
01:26
Near the summit, temperatures
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靠近峰顶的地方，
01:28
can be 40 degrees below zero.
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气温可以到达零下40度。
01:30
You can have winds 20 to 40 miles an hour.
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风速有时高达每小时20到40英里。
01:32
It's actually a wind-chill factor
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这其实是“风冷因素”，
01:34
which is lower than a summer day on Mars.
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它要比火星上的夏天还要寒冷。
01:38
I remember one time being up near the summit,
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我记得有一次，在离峰顶不远的地方，
01:40
I reached into my down jacket
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我伸手到我的鸭绒衣里
01:42
for a drink from my water bottle,
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想拿出我的水壶喝口水，
01:44
inside my down jacket,
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当时我的水壶是在我的鸭绒衣里，
01:46
only to discover that the water was already frozen solid.
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但我伸手进去的时候却发现水壶里的水已经冰冻如石了。
01:49
That gives you an idea of just how severe
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你们由此可以想象峰顶的环境
01:51
things are near the summit.
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是何等的恶劣。
01:55
OK, this is the route up Everest.
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这就是登顶的线路图。
01:57
It starts at base camp, at 17,500 feet.
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从17500英尺的大本营开始。
02:01
Camp One, 2,000 feet higher.
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2000英尺之上是一号营地，
02:04
Camp Two, another 2,000 feet higher up,
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再往上2000英尺是二号营地
02:06
what's called the Western Cwm.
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昵称“西库姆冰斗”。
02:08
CampThree is at the base of Lhotse,
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三号营是在洛子峰的山脚。
02:10
which is the fourth highest mountain in the world, but it's dwarfed by Everest.
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洛子峰是世界上第四高的山峰，但和珠穆朗玛峰相比，还是小巫见大巫了。
02:13
And then Camp Four is the highest camp;
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四号营是最高的营地。
02:16
that's 3,000 feet short of the summit.
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距离峰顶只有3000英尺。
02:20
This is a view of base camp.
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这就是大本营，
02:22
This is pitched on a glacier at 17,500 feet.
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搭建在17500英尺高的冰川上。
02:25
It's the highest point you can bring your yaks
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这大本营就是你随行的牦牛所能攀爬的最高点，
02:27
before you have to unload.
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在这之后你就不得不卸下行囊。
02:29
And this is what they unloaded for me:
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而这就是我当时所卸下来的东西。
02:31
I had four yak loads of medical supplies,
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我一共带了四个牦牛才能承载的医疗用品，
02:33
which are dumped in a tent,
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全部被转放在一个帐篷里。
02:35
and here I am trying to arrange things.
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这是我在整理杂物。
02:38
This was our expedition.
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这是我们的探险队。
02:40
It was a National Geographic expedition,
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它是一个国家地理的探险队，
02:42
but it was organized by The Explorers Club.
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不过是由探险者俱乐部组织的。
02:44
There were three other expeditions on the mountain,
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当时还有其他的三个探险队在山上，
02:46
an American team, a New Zealand team
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一个美国队，一个新西兰队，
02:48
and an IMAX team.
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还有一个IMAX电影摄像队。
02:52
And, after actually two months of preparation,
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经过两个月的准备，
02:55
we built our camps all the way up the mountain.
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我们一路搭建帐篷直奔山顶。
02:58
This is a view looking up the icefall,
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这是仰望“冰布”的景象。
03:00
the first 2,000 feet of the climb
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它是从大本营算起的
03:02
up from base camp.
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首个2000英尺攀爬。
03:05
And here's a picture in the icefall;
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这是一幅冰布内部的照片。
03:07
it's a waterfall, but it's frozen, but it moves very slowly,
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它其实是一个瀑布，但已经被冻结，很缓慢地流动着，
03:10
and it actually changes every day.
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而且每天都会有变化。
03:12
When you're in it, you're like a rat in a maze;
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当你深处其中的时候，感觉就好像是一只在迷宫里的老鼠一样，
03:14
you can't even see over the top.
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甚至无法看到顶端。
03:17
This is near the top of the icefall.
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这是距离冰布顶部很近的地方。
03:19
You want to climb through at night when the ice is frozen.
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要等到夜晚降临，冰全部冻结的时候，才可以爬过去，
03:22
That way, it's less likely to tumble down on you.
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以避免冰块在你脚下分裂。
03:24
These are some climbers reaching the top of the icefall just at sun-up.
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这是些在日出时，登上冰布顶的攀爬者们。
03:30
This is me crossing a crevasse.
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这是我跨越一个裂缝。
03:32
We cross on aluminum ladders with safety ropes attached.
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我们攀爬一个有安全绳索的铝制梯子。
03:37
That's another crevasse.
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这是另一个裂缝。
03:39
Some of these things are 10 stories deep or more,
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有些裂缝有十层楼那么深，甚至更深。
03:41
and one of my climbing friends says that
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跟我同行的攀爬者说
03:43
the reason we actually climb at night
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我们之所以选择在夜晚攀爬
03:45
is because if we ever saw the bottom
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是因为如果我们可以清楚看见
03:47
of what we're climbing over,
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我们所攀爬的裂缝的底部的话，
03:49
we would never do it.
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我们是打死也不会爬过去的。
03:52
Okay. This is Camp One.
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这就是一号营。
03:54
It's the first flat spot you can reach
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是在爬过冰布顶部之后
03:56
after you get up to the top of the icefall.
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遇到的第一块平地。
03:59
And from there we climb up to Camp Two,
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从那里，我们继续爬往二号营，
04:02
which is sort of the foreground.
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看起来好像是前景。
04:04
These are climbers moving up the Lhotse face,
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这些登山者正沿着洛子峰
04:06
that mountain toward Camp Three.
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爬往第三营。
04:08
They're on fixed ropes here.
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他们捆绑着固定的绳索。
04:10
A fall here, if you weren't roped in,
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如果你在这里跌倒，身上又没有保护绳索的话，
04:12
would be 5,000 feet down.
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迎接你的将是5000英尺的坠落。
04:16
This is a view taken from camp three.
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这是三号营的照片。
04:18
You can see the Lhotse face is in profile,
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你可以看到洛子峰的侧面。
04:20
it's about a 45 degree angle. It takes two days to climb it,
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45度的仰角，要花两天的时间才能爬到顶。
04:23
so you put the camp halfway through.
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所以你得在半途中驻扎营地。
04:25
If you notice, the summit of Everest is black.
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如果你仔细看的话，会发现珠穆朗玛的峰顶是黑色的。
04:27
There's no ice over it.
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上面并没有冰的覆盖。
04:29
And that's because Everest is so high,
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这是因为珠穆朗玛是如此之高，
04:31
it's in the jet stream,
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它处于急流层，
04:33
and winds are constantly scouring the face,
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狂风不停地席卷着表面，
04:35
so no snow gets to accumulate.
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因此没有积雪的残留。
04:37
What looks like a cloud behind the summit ridge
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山脊后面那看起来像云彩的东西
04:39
is actually snow being blown off the summit.
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实际上是被风吹散的白雪。
04:45
This is on the way up from Camp Three to Camp Four,
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这是有三号营攀往四号营，
04:47
moving in, up through the clouds.
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穿过云层。
04:52
And this is at Camp Four.
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这是四号营。
04:54
Once you get to Camp Four, you have maybe 24 hours
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一旦你抵达四号营，你只有大概24个小时的时间
04:57
to decide if you're going to go for the summit or not.
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来决定你是否要登顶。
04:59
Everybody's on oxygen, your supplies are limited,
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因为每个人都需要氧气罩。而氧气存量又是有限的。
05:02
and you either have to go up or go down,
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所以你必须快速做出决定，
05:04
make that decision very quickly.
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要么登顶，要么下山。
05:07
This is a picture of Rob Hall.
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这是Rob Hall的照片。
05:09
He was the leader of the New Zealand team.
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他是新西兰队的领头人。
05:11
This is a radio he used later to call his wife
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这是他后来用来给他妻子打电话的收音机，
05:13
that I'll tell you about.
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我等一下会跟你们详细介绍。
05:17
These are some climbers waiting to go to the summit.
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这是些等着登顶的登山者们。
05:19
They're up at Camp Four, and you can see that there's wind blowing off the summit.
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他们正在四号营。你们可以看到，冷风正吹过峰顶。
05:22
This is not good weather to climb in,
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这种天气并不利于登山，
05:24
so the climbers are just waiting, hoping that the wind's going to die down.
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所以这些登山者们只是等候者，期盼寒风可以减缓。
05:29
And, in fact, the wind does die down at night.
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事实上，大风在那晚的确是减弱了。
05:31
It becomes very calm, there's no wind at all.
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变得非常平静。根本是一点风都没有。
05:33
This looks like a good chance to go for the summit.
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看上去是登顶的绝佳良机。
05:36
So here are some climbers starting out for the summit
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这里看到就是一些开始向峰顶前进的登山者们，
05:38
on what's called the Triangular Face.
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他们所攀爬的就是所谓的“三角峰面”。
05:40
It's the first part of climb.
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这只是登顶的第一步。
05:42
It's done in the dark, because it's actually less steep than what comes next,
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这是在夜间进行的，因为随后的登程要比这个陡很多，
05:44
and you can gain daylight hours if you do this in the dark.
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所以在夜间出发的话，就可以稍后获取宝贵的日光。
05:48
So that's what happened.
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这就是当时的情形。
05:50
The climbers got on the southeast ridge.
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登山者们登上东南山脊，
05:52
This is the view looking at the southeast ridge.
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这是瞭望东南山脊的景象。
05:54
The summit would be in the foreground.
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峰顶就在前景中。
05:56
From here, it's about 1,500 feet
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从这里算起，距离峰顶大概是1500英尺
05:59
up at a 30-degree angle to the summit.
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30度仰角的攀爬。
06:04
But what happened that year was
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但那年所发生的事情是
06:06
the wind suddenly and unexpectedly picked up.
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风速突然意想不到地加大。
06:08
A storm blew in that no one was anticipating.
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暴风在无人预知的情况下突袭。
06:11
You can see here some ferocious winds
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你在这里看到一些狂风暴雪
06:13
blowing snow way high off the summit.
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席卷峰顶。
06:16
And there were climbers on that summit ridge.
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而登山者们就在那个峰顶脊梁上。
06:20
This is a picture of me in that area
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这是一张我一年前
06:22
taken a year before,
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在那个区域拍摄的照片。
06:24
and you can see I've got an oxygen mask on
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你可以看到我带着氧气罩
06:27
with a rebreather.
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和呼吸器。
06:29
I have an oxygen hose connected here.
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我有一个氧气栓连在这里。
06:31
You can see on this climber, we have two oxygen tanks in the backpack --
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你可以看到在这个登山者的背包中有两个氧气罐，
06:34
little titanium tanks, very lightweight --
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小的钛金罐，非常轻便。
06:36
and we're not carrying much else.
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我们也没有携带过多的其他东西。
06:38
This is all you've got. You're very exposed on the summit ridge.
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这就是你所需的一起。在峰顶脊梁上，你的一切都暴露在外。
06:41
OK, this is a view taken on the summit ridge itself.
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这是站在峰顶脊梁上拍摄的一张照片。
06:44
This is on the way toward the summit,
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这是前往峰顶的路上
06:46
on that 1,500-foot bridge.
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经过那个1500英尺的链接路。
06:49
All the climbers here are climbing unroped,
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所有的登山者都没有捆绑绳索，
06:51
and the reason is because
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原因是因为
06:53
the drop off is so sheer on either side
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两边都极其陡峭，
06:55
that if you were roped to somebody,
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如果你和他人用绳索连在一起的话，
06:57
you'd wind up just pulling them off with you.
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一旦失足，会连同其他人一起坠下山。
06:59
So each person climbs individually.
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所以每个人都是单独攀登。
07:01
And it's not a straight path at all,
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而且攀登的线路并不是一条直线。
07:04
it's very difficult climbing,
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这是非常艰难的攀爬，
07:07
and there's always the risk
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总是有
07:09
of falling on either side.
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坠入两边的风险。
07:11
If you fall to your left, you're going to fall
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如果你坠向左边，你将下落
07:13
8,000 feet into Nepal;
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8000英尺到达尼泊尔。
07:15
if you fall to your right,
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如果你坠向右边，你将下落
07:17
you're going to fall 12,000 feet into Tibet.
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12000英尺到达西藏。
07:20
So it's probably better to fall into Tibet
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所以还是跌入西藏比较好
07:22
because you'll live longer.
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至少你能多活一段时间（多活4000英尺）。
07:24
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
07:29
But, either way, you fall for the rest of your life.
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但不管怎样，你都将坠向死亡。
07:33
OK. Those climbers were up near the summit,
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这些登山者们即将到达顶峰，
07:35
along that summit ridge that you see up there,
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沿着你们看到的那条峰顶脊梁而行进着，
07:39
and I was down here in Camp Three.
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而我当时则是身处下方的三号营。
07:41
My expedition was down in Camp Three,
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我的探险队当时在三号营，
07:44
while these guys were up there in the storm.
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而这些登山者则是陷在暴风中。
07:46
The storm was so fierce that we had to lay,
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那场暴风是如此猛烈，我们不得不全身躺下，
07:49
fully dressed, fully equipped,
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全副武装地
07:51
laid out on the tent floor
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躺在帐篷里
07:53
to stop the tent from blowing off the mountain.
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以防止帐篷被吹走。
07:55
It was the worst winds I've ever seen.
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那是我所见过的最恶劣的暴风。
07:57
And the climbers up on the ridge
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而那些峰脊上的登山者们
08:00
were that much higher, 2,000 feet higher,
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则是身处高处，比我们所在地还要高2000英尺的地方，
08:02
and completely exposed to the elements.
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并完全地暴露在暴风雪之中。
08:06
We were in radio contact with some of them.
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我们通过无线电和他们中的一些人保持着联系。
08:08
This is a view taken along the summit ridge.
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这是沿着峰脊所拍摄的一张照片。
08:11
Rob Hall, we heard by radio,
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我们从无线电中收听到说
08:13
was up here, at this point in the storm
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Rob Hall此时正在峰脊上，身处暴风中，
08:16
with Doug Hansen.
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Doug Hansen也和他在一起。
08:18
And we heard that Rob was OK,
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我们听说Rob还可以，
08:20
but Doug was too weak to come down.
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但是Doug身体过虚，无法下山来。
08:22
He was exhausted, and Rob was staying with him.
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他已经精疲力竭了。Rob就呆在他的身边。
08:26
We also got some bad news in the storm
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我们也听到了一些其他关于暴风的坏消息。
08:28
that Beck Weathers, another climber,
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另一位登山者Beck Weathers
08:31
had collapsed in the snow and was dead.
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当时已经倒在雪中，不幸逝世了。
08:34
There were still 18 other climbers
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还有另外18位登山者
08:36
that we weren't aware of their condition.
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所处情况我们当时不得而知。
08:40
They were lost. There was total confusion on the mountain;
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他们迷失了。山上一片迷茫。
08:44
all the stories were confusing, most of them were conflicting.
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各项信息都令人费解，而且很多又是相互矛盾。
08:47
We really had no idea what was going on during that storm.
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我们真的对暴风中的一切一无所知。
08:50
We were just hunkered down
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我们只是困守在
08:52
in our tents at Camp Three.
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三号营的帐篷里。
08:54
Our two strongest climbers, Todd Burleson and Pete Athans,
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我们中最强壮的两个登山者Todd Burleson和Pete Athans
08:57
decided to go up to try to rescue who they could
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决定登顶去尝试援救可能援救的人，
09:00
even though there was a ferocious storm going.
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虽然说当时的暴风依旧是格外猛烈。
09:03
They tried to radio a message to Rob Hall,
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他们试着给Rob Hall发送无线电信息。
09:06
who was a superb climber
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Rob Hall是个杰出的登山者，
09:09
stuck, sort of, with a weak climber
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不过当时却是和一个相对较弱的登山者
09:11
up near the summit.
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困在了峰顶附近。
09:13
I expected them to say to Rob,
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我当时以为他们会对Rob说
09:15
"Hold on. We're coming."
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“坚持。我们马上就来。”
09:18
But in fact, what they said was,
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但事实上，他们说的是
09:21
"Leave Doug and come down yourself.
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“丢下Doug，你自己下山来。
09:23
There's no chance of saving him,
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现在已经没有拯救他的机会了，
09:25
and just try to save yourself at this point."
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最重要的是拯救你自己。”
09:29
And Rob got that message,
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Rob收到了那条信息，
09:31
but his answer was,
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但他的回复是：
09:34
"We're both listening."
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“我们两个人都在收听这条信息。”
09:40
Todd and Pete got up to the summit ridge, up in here,
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Todd和Pete最终抵达了峰脊，
09:43
and it was a scene of complete chaos up there.
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迎接他们的是一片混乱。
09:47
But they did what they could to stabilize the people.
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但是他们还是竭尽所能稳定周边的人员。
09:50
I gave them radio advice from Camp Three,
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我从三号营通过无线电向他们传送建议，
09:53
and we sent down the climbers that could make it down
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我们让那些有能力自己下山的人员
09:56
under their own power.
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自行下山。
09:58
The ones that couldn't we just sort of decided to leave up at Camp Four.
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那些不能自己下山的人，我们决定将他们暂时搁放在四号营。
10:01
So the climbers were coming down along this route.
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所以登山者们是沿着这条线路下来的。
10:03
This is taken from Camp Three, where I was.
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这是在三号营，我当时的所在地，拍摄的照片。
10:06
And they all came by me
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他们都来到我身边，
10:08
so I could take a look at them and see what I could do for them,
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以便于我检查他们，看看有什么是我可以做的。
10:12
which is really not much, because Camp Three
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但我所能做的其实不多，因为三号营
10:14
is a little notch cut in the ice
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是在45度的冰面上
10:16
in the middle of a 45-degree angle.
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凿出来一个小洞。
10:18
You can barely stand outside the tent.
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现站在帐篷外面都难，
10:20
It's really cold; it's 24,000 feet.
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因为实在是太冷了。而且又是在24000英尺的高地上。
10:22
The only supplies I had at that altitude
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在当时那个海拔上，我唯一的医疗器材
10:24
were two plastic bags
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就是两个塑料袋中
10:26
with preloaded syringes
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事先装好了止痛药和类固醇的
10:28
of painkiller and steroids.
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针筒。
10:31
So, as the climbers came by me,
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所以这些登山者来到我身边，
10:33
I sort of assessed whether or not they were in condition
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由我来检测他们是否适合
10:35
to continue on further down.
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继续向山下行进。
10:37
The ones that weren't that lucid or were not that well coordinated,
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对于那些已经不太清醒的，手脚不太协调了的，
10:40
I would give an injection of steroids
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我就会注射一针类固醇，
10:43
to try to give them some period
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来帮助他们暂时恢复
10:45
of lucidity and coordination
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一些清醒和协调性，
10:47
where they could then work their way further down the mountain.
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这样他们可以继续向山下行进。
10:50
It's so awkward to work up there that sometimes
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在那么高的地方医治有时候是相当困难的。
10:52
I even gave the injections right through their clothes.
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我甚至不得不直接将针管插过他们的衣服来进行注射。
10:54
It was just too hard to maneuver
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在那种高度下，任何其他的办法
10:57
any other way up there.
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都很难奏效。
10:59
While I was taking care of them,
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正当我照顾这些病人的时候，
11:01
we got more news about Rob Hall.
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我们得到了关于Rob Hall的最新消息。
11:03
There was no way we could get up high enough to rescue him.
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在当时，我们是无论如何也无法及时赶到他所在的高度去援救他。
11:07
He called in to say that he was alone now.
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他打电话进来，告诉我们说他现在是独自一人。
11:10
Apparently, Doug had died higher up on the mountain.
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很显然，Doug已经在峰上的某个更高处离世了。
11:13
But Rob was now too weak to come down himself,
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但Rob现在已经变得无比虚弱，无法自己爬下山来。
11:16
and with the fierce winds and up at that altitude,
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更要命的是，风依旧是如此猛烈，他又在如此高的海拔上，
11:19
he was just beyond rescue
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他是彻底无救了，
11:21
and he knew it.
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而他自己也清楚这一点。
11:23
At that point, he asked
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在那种情况下，
11:25
to be paged into his wife.
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他请求联系他的妻子。
11:27
He was carrying a radio.
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他当时携带着一个收音机。
11:29
His wife was home in New Zealand,
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她的妻子正守在新西兰的家中，
11:31
seven months pregnant with their first child,
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怀着他们七个月大的第一个孩子。
11:34
and Rob asked to be patched into her. That was done,
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Rob请求和她连线。我们达成了他的请求。
11:37
and Rob and his wife
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之后Rob和他的妻子
11:39
had their last conversation.
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进行了最后的一次谈话，
11:41
They picked the name for their baby.
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为他们的孩子选好了名字。
11:43
Rob then signed off,
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随后Rob就挂断了，
11:45
and that was the last we ever heard of him.
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而那也是我们最后一次听到他的声音。
11:50
I was faced with treating a lot of critically ill patients
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我当时所面临的是近乎不可能完成的医疗任务──
11:53
at 24,000 feet,
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在24000英尺的海拔上
11:55
which was an impossibility.
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医治一群病重的患者。
11:57
So what we did was, we got the victims
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所以我们到头来做的是，是把这些患者
11:59
down to 21,000 feet, where it was easier for me to treat them.
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带到21000英尺的海拔。那里更方便我来医治他们。
12:02
This was my medical kit.
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这就是我当时的医疗箱，
12:04
It's a tackle box filled with medical supplies.
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是一个装满了医疗器备的钓具箱。
12:07
This is what I carried up the mountain.
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这就是我带上山的一切，
12:10
I had more supplies lower down,
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我在山下有更多的器备。
12:12
which I asked to be brought up to meet me at the lower camp.
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我已经叫人把这些器备带到低处的营地以便我随后使用。
12:15
And this was scene at the lower camp.
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而就是当时在低处营地的场景。
12:17
The survivors came in one by one.
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幸存者们一个个地走进来。
12:20
Some of them were hypothermic,
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他们有些人体温过低，
12:22
some of them were frostbitten, some were both.
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有些人生了冻疮，而有的则是两者皆具。
12:25
What we did was try to warm them up as best we could,
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我们试着尽可能地让他们身体暖和起来，
12:28
put oxygen on them and try to revive them,
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给他们氧气，帮助他们呼吸，
12:31
which is difficult to do at 21,000 feet,
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这在21000英尺的海拔上，
12:34
when the tent is freezing.
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在冰冷的帐篷中，并不是一件容易的事。
12:38
This is some severe frostbite on the feet,
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这是脚上的严重冻伤，
12:41
severe frostbite on the nose.
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还有鼻子上的严重冻伤。
12:47
This climber was snow blind.
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这个登山者患上了雪盲症。
12:49
As I was taking care of these climbers,
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正当我医治这些登山者的时候，
12:51
we got a startling experience.
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不可思议的事情发生了。
12:56
Out of nowhere, Beck Weathers,
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Beck Weather不知从哪里钻了出来，
12:58
who we had already been told was dead,
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我们之前被告知说他已经离世了，
13:01
stumbled into the tent,
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不过他现在竟然像一个木乃伊一样
13:04
just like a mummy, he walked into the tent.
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跌跌跄跄地走进了帐篷中。
13:07
I expected him to be incoherent,
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我本以为他会口齿不清，
13:09
but, in fact, he walked into the tent and said to me,
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但事实上他走进帐篷，对我说到：
13:11
"Hi, Ken. Where should I sit?"
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“嘿，Ken。我应该坐在哪里？”
13:14
And then he said,
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随后他又说到：
13:16
"Do you accept my health insurance?"
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“你接受我的医保不？”
13:18
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
13:20
He really said that.
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那真是他的原话。
13:22
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
13:24
So he was completely lucid, but he was very severely frostbitten.
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虽然他当时神智很清醒，但却被严重冻伤。
13:27
You can see his hand is completely white;
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你们可以看到，他的手已经全白了，
13:29
his face, his nose, is burned.
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他的脸和鼻子则是被灼伤了。
13:31
First, it turns white, and then when it's completed necrosis,
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它先会变白，当到达坏疽的阶段时，
13:34
it turns black, and then it falls off.
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它则会变黑，随后脱落。
13:37
It's the last stage, just like a scar.
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这是最后的阶段，就像个结疤一样。
13:39
So, as I was taking care of Beck,
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就在我照顾Beck的时候，
13:41
he related what had been going on up there.
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他向我重述了在峰上所发生的一切。
13:43
He said he had gotten lost in the storm,
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他说他迷失在暴风中，
13:46
collapsed in the snow,
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瘫在了雪中，
13:48
and just laid there, unable to move.
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然后就躺在那里，无法移动。
13:50
Some climbers had come by and looked at him,
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有些登山者经过他身旁，打量了他一番，
13:53
and he heard them say, "He's dead."
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然后他听到他们说，“他已经死了。”
13:57
But Beck wasn't dead; he heard that,
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但Beck当时并没有死，他可以听清他们的谈话，
14:00
but he was completely unable to move.
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不过他完全无法移动。
14:02
He was in some sort of catatonic state
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他处于一种强直性昏厥的状态──
14:04
where he could be aware of his surroundings,
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可以感知身边的环境，
14:06
but couldn't even blink to indicate that he was alive.
325
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却无法通过眨眼这样简单的事情来告诉别人他还活着。
14:09
So the climbers passed him by,
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所以登山者们离他而去，
14:12
and Beck lay there for a day, a night
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Beck躺在那里，一天，一夜，
14:15
and another day,
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又一天，
14:17
in the snow.
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在白雪中。
14:19
And then he said to himself,
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但他告诉自己说：
14:21
"I don't want to die.
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“我不想死。
14:23
I have a family to come back to."
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我的家人还在等着我。”
14:25
And the thoughts of his family,
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他对他家人、他的孩子、
14:27
his kids and his wife,
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他的妻子的思念之情
14:29
generated enough energy,
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给予了他充足的力量，
14:32
enough motivation in him,
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激发了他的动力，
14:34
so that he actually got up.
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于是他终于站了起来。
14:36
After laying in the snow that long a time,
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在雪中躺了那么长一段时间后，
14:38
he got up and found his way back to the camp.
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他站了起来，并且找到了回营地的路。
14:42
And Beck told me that story very quietly,
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Beck轻声地向我讲述着这个故事，
14:44
but I was absolutely stunned by it.
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但我却完全被其打动了。
14:47
I couldn't imagine anybody laying in the snow
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我无法想象任何人可以在雪中
14:49
that long a time
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瘫痪那么久，
14:51
and then getting up.
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却依旧可以站起来。
14:53
He apparently reversed
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很明显，他逆转了
14:55
an irreversible hypothermia.
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无法逆转的过低体温。
14:58
And I can only try to speculate
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而我现在只能猜测
15:01
on how he did it.
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他是如何做到这一点的。
15:03
So, what if we had Beck
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如果我们将Beck连到一个电脑扫描仪上，
15:05
hooked up to a SPECT scan,
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来观测他当时的脑部活动，
15:07
something that could actually measure brain function?
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我们会看到什么呢？
15:12
Just very simply, the three parts of the brain:
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这是简化了的大脑的三个部分：
15:15
the frontal lobe, where you focus
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额叶──
15:17
your attention and concentration;
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用来集中注意力的组织；
15:19
you have the temporal lobe,
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颞叶──
15:21
where you form images and keep memories;
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用来构建影像、存储记忆的组织；
15:23
and the posterior part of your brain,
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而在大脑的后部，
15:25
which contains the cerebellum, which controls motion;
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有控制行动的小脑，
15:27
and the brain stem,
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以及协调如心跳、呼吸等
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where you have your basic maintenance functions,
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这些基本生命机理的
15:31
like heartbeat and respiration.
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脑干。
15:33
So let's take a cut through the brain here,
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所以让我们在这里截取这个大脑的横切片，
15:36
and imagine that Beck
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想象着Beck就连在
15:38
was hooked up to a SPECT scan.
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这个大脑扫描仪上，
15:40
This measures dynamic blood flow
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测量着动态血液流动，
15:42
and therefore energy flow within the brain.
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也就是大脑中的能量流动。
15:44
So you have the prefrontal cortex here,
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这里，前额的大量活动
15:46
lighting up in red.
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呈现红色。
15:48
This is a pretty evenly distributed scan.
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这是一个分配相对平均的脑切片。
15:50
You have the middle area,
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大脑的中部在这里，
15:52
where the temporal lobe might be, in here,
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颞叶可能就在这里，
15:54
and the posterior portion, where the maintenance functions are in the back.
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这是后脑的部分，基本机理的维护都在后面。
15:57
This is a roughly normal scan,
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这是一个比较正常的脑切片，
15:59
showing equal distribution of energy.
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能量分布地很平均。
16:03
Now, you go to this one and you see how much more
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再来看看这张切片，
16:06
the frontal lobes are lighting up.
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额叶是格外的兴奋。
16:08
This might be what Beck would be experiencing
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而这就有可能是当Beck意识到自己身处险境时，
16:10
when he realizes he's in danger.
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所经历的事情。
16:12
He's focusing all his attention
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他集中了他所有的注意力，
16:14
on getting himself out of trouble.
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一心只想脱离险境。
16:16
These parts of the brain are quieting down.
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大脑这些部分的活动都被减缓。
16:19
He's not thinking about his family or anybody else at this point,
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在这种状况下，他并没有在想着他的家人或是其他任何人，
16:22
and he's working pretty hard.
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而是在竭尽全力抗争着。
16:24
He's trying to get his muscles going and get out of this.
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他正试着重新激活他的肌肉，脱离险境。
16:30
OK, but he's losing ground here.
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不过他开始败退下来，
16:33
He's running out of energy.
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他没有足够的能量。
16:35
It's too cold; he can't keep his metabolic fires going,
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天气过于寒冷，他无法维持他的新陈代谢。
16:38
and, you see, there's no more red here;
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如你所见，这里不再是红色的了。
16:40
his brain is quieting down.
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他的大脑开始安静下来。
16:42
He's collapsed in the snow here. Everything is quiet,
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他瘫在了雪中。一切都变得鸦雀无声。
16:44
there's very little red anywhere.
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红色的部分一点点消逝。
16:47
Beck is powering down.
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Beck的能量一点点流失。
16:49
He's dying.
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他正一步步接近死亡。
16:53
You go on to the next scan,
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不过当我们来到下一张脑切片，
16:55
but, in Beck's case,
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我们会看到
16:57
you can see that the middle part of his brain
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Beck大脑的中间部分
16:59
is beginning to light up again.
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又变得兴奋起来。
17:02
He's beginning to think about his family.
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他还是回想他的家人。
17:04
He's beginning to have images
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他脑中浮现家人的各种影像
17:06
that are motivating him to get up.
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激励他站起来。
17:08
He's developing energy in this area
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仅仅通过思考，
17:10
through thought.
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他在这个区域中聚集了能量。
17:12
And this is how he's going to turn thought
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这就是他如何将思想
17:15
back into action.
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转化为行动。
17:18
This part of the brain is called the anterior cingulate gyrus.
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这部分的大脑被称为带状前回。
17:20
It's an area in which
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很多脑部专家相信
17:22
a lot of neuroscientists believe
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这个区域
17:25
the seat of will exists.
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就是人类意志的所在。
17:27
This is where people make decisions, where they develop willpower.
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这是人们做决定、培养意志的地方。
17:30
And, you can see, there's an energy flow
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而且如你们所见，一股能量
17:32
going from the mid portion of his brain,
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正从充满他家人影像的大脑中部
17:34
where he's got images of his family,
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流向
17:36
into this area, which is powering his will.
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掌管其意志的区域。
17:41
Okay. This is getting stronger and stronger
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而这股能量变得越来越强壮
17:43
to the point where it's actually
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直到它变成了
17:45
going to be a motivating factor.
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一个激励他的因素。
17:47
He's going to develop enough energy in that area --
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在一天、一夜、又一天之后
17:49
after a day, a night and a day --
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他将在那个区域积攒足够的能量
17:51
to actually motivate himself to get up.
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来激励他站起来。
17:57
And you can see here,
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如你所见，
17:59
he's starting to get more energy into the frontal lobe.
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他的额叶开始集聚更多的能量。
18:01
He's beginning to focus, he can concentrate now.
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他开始集中精力。他现在可以全神贯注了。
18:04
He's thinking about what he's got to do to save himself.
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他在考虑如何拯救自己。
18:06
So this energy has been transmitted
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所以这股能量已经被转移到
18:08
up toward the front of his brain,
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他大脑的前部，
18:10
and it's getting quieter down here,
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而这部分则变得渐渐安静下来，
18:12
but he's using this energy
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不过他正在利用这股能量
18:14
to think about what he has to do to get himself going.
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来思考一个可以让他重新动起来的办法。
18:17
And then, that energy is sort of spreading
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而之后，这股能量就好似
18:20
throughout his thought areas.
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在他的思想区域里扩散开来一样。
18:22
He's not thinking about his family now, and he's getting himself motivated.
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他现在不再挂念他的家人，而是在想着如何激励他自己。
18:25
This is the posterior part, where his muscles are going to be moving,
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这是大脑后部，帮助他的肌肉重新活动起来，
18:28
and he's going to be pacing himself.
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随后他将开始自我调整，
18:30
His heart and lungs are going to pick up speed.
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他的心脏和肺将开始提速。
18:33
So this is what I can speculate might have been going on
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如果我们可以将Beck连接在电脑扫描仪上，
18:36
had we been able to do a SPECT scan on Beck
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我猜想这就是当时在他惊人的求生过程中
18:39
during this survival epic.
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所发生的一切。
18:43
So here I am taking care of Beck at 21,000 feet,
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这是我在海拔21000英尺的地方照顾Beck，
18:46
and I felt what I was doing was completely trivial
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和他所做的一切自救相比
18:49
compared to what he had done for himself.
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我感觉我所做的是如此微不足道。
18:51
It just shows you what the power of the mind can do.
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这向你们展示了人类意志的力量。
18:56
He was critically ill, there were other critically ill patients;
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他病得很严重。还有许多其他的患者病得很严重。
18:58
luckily, we were able to get a helicopter
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幸运的是，我们得以获取一架直升飞机
19:00
in to rescue these guys.
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来援救这些人。
19:03
A helicopter came in at 21,000 feet
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一架直升飞机来到21000的海拔处
19:06
and carried out the highest helicopter rescue in history.
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完成了人类历史上海拔最高的直升机援救。
19:10
It was able to land on the ice, take away Beck
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它得以降落在冰上，将Beck
19:12
and the other survivors, one by one,
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以及其他幸存者，一个个地运走，
19:15
and get them off to Kathmandu in a clinic
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并在我们赶回大本营之前，
19:18
before we even got back to base camp.
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就已经把他们送到了加德满都(尼泊尔首都)的一家诊所。
19:21
This is a scene at base camp,
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这是在大本营的一幕，
19:23
at one of the camps
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我们遇难的登山者中就有一些
19:25
where some of the climbers were lost.
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来自其中的一个营地。
19:27
And we had a memorial service there
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几天后，我们在那里
19:29
a few days later.
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举行了一场悼念仪式。
19:31
These are Serphas lighting juniper branches.
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这是一些夏尔巴人燃烧杉树枝，
19:34
They believe juniper smoke is holy.
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因为他们相信杉树的烟是神圣的。
19:37
And the climbers stood around on the high rocks
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登山者们站在那些高处岩石的四周
19:41
and spoke of the climbers who were lost
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追忆那些
19:44
up near the summit,
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在峰顶遇难的同伴们，
19:46
turning to the mountain, actually, to talk to them directly.
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转向大山，去和他们直接对话。
19:51
There were five climbers lost here.
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一共有五名登山者不幸逝世。
19:53
This was Scott Fischer,
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这是Scott Fischer，
19:58
Rob Hall,
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Rob Hall，
20:00
Andy Harris,
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Andy Harris，
20:02
Doug Hansen
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Doug Hansen
20:04
and Yasuko Namba.
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以及Yasuko Namba。
20:06
And one more climber
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还有一名登山者
20:08
should have died that day, but didn't,
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本应在那天逝世，但是却没有，
20:11
and that's Beck Weathers.
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他就是Beck Weathers。
20:14
He was able to survive
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而他幸存的原因
20:16
because he was able to generate that incredible willpower,
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就是因为他可以召唤那股难以置信的意志力，
20:19
he was able to use all the power of his mind
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用他所用的精神力量
20:22
to save himself.
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拯救了自己。
20:25
These are Tibetan prayer flags.
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这些是藏族的祷告旗。
20:27
These Sherpas believe that
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夏尔巴人们相信
20:29
if you write prayers on these flags,
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如果你将祷告写在这些旗上面，
20:31
the message will be carried up to the gods,
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你的讯息将会被带往神那里。
20:34
and that year, Beck's message was answered.
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而那一年，Beck的祈祷得到了回应。
20:38
Thank you.
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谢谢。
20:40
(Applause)
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（掌声）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Ken Kamler - Adventure physicianKen Kamler has served as doctor on some of the world’s most daring expeditions, but also performs delicate microsurgery when at home in New York.
Why you should listen
Ken Kamler has practiced medicine in some of the most extreme conditions on Earth -- from the Andes mountains to the Antarctic ice to the Amazon rainforest. Many of his expeditions have been in concert with National Geographic, helping teams to carry out geological research and precision mapping less traveled areas of the world. He has also served as the chief high altitude physician in research by NASA, helping examine the human body’s response to high altitudes.
When not on expedition to a remote corner of the globe, Kamler practices microsurgery, specializing in hand reconstruction and finger reattachment. He has also chronicled his adventures in the books Doctor on Everest and Surviving the Extremes: A Doctor's Journey to the Limits of Human Endurance. His treatment of the climbers in the largest disaster to happen on Mount Everest was portrayed in the book Into Thin Air and in the IMAX film documentary, Everest. He has been active in promoting the Boy Scouts of America and currently serves as their Founders District Chairman in Queens, NY.
Ken Kamler | Speaker | TED.com