TED2004
Malcolm Gladwell: Choice, happiness and spaghetti sauce
Малкълм Гладуел за сосовете за спагети
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Малкълм Гладуел, автор на "Повратната точка", изследва стремежа на хранителната индустрия да открие перфектния сос за спагети и стига до съществени заключения относно същността на избора и на щастието.
Malcolm Gladwell - Writer
Detective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence. Full bio
Detective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
Мисля, че трябваше да говоря за моята нова книга,
00:25
I think I was supposed
to talk about my new book,
to talk about my new book,
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00:27
which is called "Blink,"
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която се нарича "Проблясък" и е посветена на мигновените решения и първите впечатления.
00:29
and it's about snap judgments
and first impressions.
and first impressions.
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00:32
And it comes out in January,
and I hope you all buy it in triplicate.
and I hope you all buy it in triplicate.
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Тя излиза през януари и се надявам, че всички ще си купите по три бройки.
00:36
(Laughter)
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Но мислейки си за това,
00:38
But I was thinking about this,
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00:39
and I realized that although
my new book makes me happy,
my new book makes me happy,
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осъзнах, че въпреки, че книгата ми ме прави щастлив,
или поне ще направи майка ми щастлива,
00:44
and I think would make my mother happy,
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00:46
it's not really about happiness.
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тя не е точно посветена на щастието.
Затова реших вместо това да ви говоря за един човек,
00:49
So I decided instead,
I would talk about someone
I would talk about someone
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00:52
who I think has done as much
to make Americans happy
to make Americans happy
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който е направил толкова много за щастието на американците,
колкото никой друг за последните 20 години.
00:56
as perhaps anyone over the last 20 years,
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00:59
a man who is a great
personal hero of mine:
personal hero of mine:
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Човек, който е мой личен герой.
01:02
someone by the name of Howard Moskowitz,
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Човек, с името Хауард Московиц,
01:05
who is most famous
for reinventing spaghetti sauce.
for reinventing spaghetti sauce.
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който е най-известен с преоткриването на соса за спагети.
Хауард е долу-горе толкова висок и е кръгъл.
01:10
Howard's about this high, and he's round,
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01:14
and he's in his 60s,
and he has big huge glasses
and he has big huge glasses
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Над 60-годишен е, има огромни очила
и оредяваща сива коса, излъчва удивително настроение и жизненост,
01:19
and thinning gray hair,
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01:21
and he has a kind of wonderful
exuberance and vitality,
exuberance and vitality,
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има папагал, обича операта
01:25
and he has a parrot,
and he loves the opera,
and he loves the opera,
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01:28
and he's a great aficionado
of medieval history.
of medieval history.
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и е страстен почитател на средновековната история.
А по професия е психо-физик.
01:33
And by profession, he's a psychophysicist.
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01:35
Now, I should tell you that I have no idea
what psychophysics is,
what psychophysics is,
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Тук трябва да ви кажа, че нямам никаква представа от психофизика,
въпреки че в един период от живота си ходех две години с момиче,
01:40
although at some point in my life,
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01:42
I dated a girl for two years
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01:43
who was getting
her doctorate in psychophysics.
her doctorate in psychophysics.
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което правеше докторат по психофизика.
01:45
Which should tell you something
about that relationship.
about that relationship.
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Което трябва да ви говори нещо за тази връзка. (Смях)
01:49
(Laughter)
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01:51
As far as I know, psychophysics
is about measuring things.
is about measuring things.
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Доколкото знам, психофизиката се занимава с измерването на разни неща.
01:54
And Howard is very interested
in measuring things.
in measuring things.
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А Хауард много се интересува от измерването на нещата.
И така, той завърши с докторат от Харвард,
01:57
And he graduated
with his doctorate from Harvard,
with his doctorate from Harvard,
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и отвори малка консултантска фирма в Уайт Плейнс, Ню Йорк.
01:59
and he set up a little consulting shop
in White Plains, New York.
in White Plains, New York.
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И един от неговите първи клиенти беше -- това беше много отдавна, в началото на 70-те
02:03
And one of his first clients was Pepsi.
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02:06
This is many years ago,
back in the early 70s.
back in the early 70s.
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-- един от първите му клиенти беше Пепси.
Пепси дойдоха при Хауард и му казаха:
02:10
And Pepsi came to Howard and they said,
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"Знаеш ли, има едно ново нещо, наречено аспартам
02:12
"You know, there's this new
thing called aspartame,
thing called aspartame,
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и ние искаме да направим диетично пепси.
02:14
and we would like to make Diet Pepsi.
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02:16
We'd like you to figure out
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Бихме искали да разберем колко аспартам да сложим
02:18
how much aspartame we should put
in each can of Diet Pepsi
in each can of Diet Pepsi
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във всяка кутийка диетично пепси, за да получим перфектната напитка."
02:22
in order to have the perfect drink."
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02:24
Now that sounds like an incredibly
straightforward question to answer,
straightforward question to answer,
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Това звучи като невероятно прост въпрос
02:28
and that's what Howard thought.
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и точно така си е мислел и Хауард. Защото Пепси са му казали:
02:30
Because Pepsi told him,
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"Виж, ние работим в интервала между 8 и 12 процента.
02:31
"We're working with a band
between eight and 12 percent.
between eight and 12 percent.
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Всичко под осем процента не е достатъчно сладко,
02:34
Anything below eight percent
sweetness is not sweet enough;
sweetness is not sweet enough;
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а всичко над 12 процента е вече прекалено сладко.
02:37
anything above 12 percent
sweetness is too sweet.
sweetness is too sweet.
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02:40
We want to know: what's the sweet
spot between 8 and 12?"
spot between 8 and 12?"
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Искаме да отрием коя е точката на сладост между 8 и 12 процента."
02:44
Now, if I gave you this problem to do,
you would all say, it's very simple.
you would all say, it's very simple.
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Сега, ако поставя тази задача на вас, вие всички бихте казали, че е много лесна.
Ще вземем една голяма експериментална серия от Пепси
02:48
What we do is you make up
a big experimental batch of Pepsi,
a big experimental batch of Pepsi,
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02:51
at every degree of sweetness --
eight percent, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,
eight percent, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,
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с различна степен на сладост -- осем процента, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,
и така нататък до 12 -- и ще ги изпробваме върху хиляди хора,
02:56
all the way up to 12 --
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02:57
and we try this out
with thousands of people,
with thousands of people,
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ще изобразим резултатите върху крива
03:00
and we plot the results on a curve,
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03:02
and we take the most popular
concentration, right?
concentration, right?
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и ще вземем най-популярната концентрация. Нали? Наистина е просто.
03:05
Really simple.
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03:06
Howard does the experiment,
and he gets the data back,
and he gets the data back,
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Хауард прави експеримента, получава данните, изобразява ги на графика
03:09
and he plots it on a curve,
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и изведнъж забелязва, че това не е симпатичната форма на камбана.
03:10
and all of a sudden he realizes
it's not a nice bell curve.
it's not a nice bell curve.
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03:13
In fact, the data doesn't make any sense.
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Всъщност, данните нямат никакъв смисъл.
Те са пълна каша и са навсякъде по графиката.
03:15
It's a mess. It's all over the place.
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03:17
Now, most people in that business,
in the world of testing food and such,
in the world of testing food and such,
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Повечето хора в този бизнес, в света на тестването на храни,
03:22
are not dismayed
when the data comes back a mess.
when the data comes back a mess.
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не се ужасяват, когато получените данни са объркани.
03:25
They think, "Well, you know,
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Те си казват: "Е, не е лесно да разбереш какво мислят хората за колите.
03:26
figuring out what people think
about cola's not that easy."
about cola's not that easy."
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03:29
"You know, maybe we made an error
somewhere along the way."
somewhere along the way."
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Може би сме допуснали грешка някъде по пътя.
Нека да направим обосновано предположение."
03:32
"You know, let's just
make an educated guess,"
make an educated guess,"
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03:34
and they simply point
and they go for 10 percent,
and they go for 10 percent,
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И просто избират 10 процента - точно по средата.
03:37
right in the middle.
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03:38
Howard is not so easily placated.
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Хауард, обаче, не се задоволява толкова лесно.
03:40
Howard is a man of a certain degree
of intellectual standards.
of intellectual standards.
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Хауард е човек, който следва определени интелектуални стандарти.
03:43
And this was not good enough for him,
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Това не е било достатъчно добро за него
03:45
and this question bedeviled him for years.
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и този въпрос го е тормозел в продължение на години.
Постоянно е размишлявал над него и се е питал: къде сбъркахме?
03:48
And he would think it through
and say, "What was wrong?
and say, "What was wrong?
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03:50
Why could we not make sense
of this experiment with Diet Pepsi?"
of this experiment with Diet Pepsi?"
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Защо не можахме да получим смислен резултат от този експеримент?
Един ден, той си седял в една закусвалня в Уайт плейнс
03:55
And one day, he was sitting
in a diner in White Plains,
in a diner in White Plains,
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03:57
about to go trying to dream up
some work for Nescafé.
some work for Nescafé.
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с намерението да си измисли някаква работа за Нескафе,
и изведнъж, като блясък на светкавица, отговорът дошъл при него.
04:01
And suddenly, like a bolt of lightning,
the answer came to him.
the answer came to him.
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И той бил, че когато са анализирали данните за диетичното пепси,
04:04
And that is, that when they analyzed
the Diet Pepsi data,
the Diet Pepsi data,
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04:07
they were asking the wrong question.
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те са си задавали грешния въпрос.
04:09
They were looking for the perfect Pepsi,
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Те са търсели перфектното пепси,
04:11
and they should have been
looking for the perfect Pepsis.
looking for the perfect Pepsis.
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а е трябвало да търсят перфектните пепсита. Вярвайте ми.
04:15
Trust me.
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04:16
This was an enormous revelation.
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Това било огромно откритие.
04:18
This was one of the most brilliant
breakthroughs in all of food science.
breakthroughs in all of food science.
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Това било едно от най-блестящите открития в цялата хранителна наука.
Хауард незабавно поел на път,
04:22
Howard immediately went on the road,
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участвал в конференции из цялата страна,
04:24
and he would go to conferences
around the country,
around the country,
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изправял се и казвал:
04:26
and he would stand up and say,
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"Вие търсехте перфектното пепси. Вие сбъркахте.
04:28
"You had been looking
for the perfect Pepsi.
for the perfect Pepsi.
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04:30
You're wrong.
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04:31
You should be looking
for the perfect Pepsis."
for the perfect Pepsis."
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Трябваше да търсите перфектните пепсита."
04:34
And people would look at him
blankly and say,
blankly and say,
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Хората го гледали с празни погледи и казвали:
"За какво говориш? Това е лудост!"
04:37
"What are you talking about? Craziness."
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И те казвали: "Махай се! Следващият!"
04:39
And they would say, "Move! Next!"
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04:40
Tried to get business,
nobody would hire him --
nobody would hire him --
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Всеки си гледал бизнеса и никой не искал да го наеме, но той бил обсебен
04:43
he was obsessed, though,
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и говорел, говорел, говорел за това.
04:44
and he talked about it
and talked about it.
and talked about it.
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04:46
Howard loves the Yiddish expression
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Хауард обича еврейската поговорка:
"За червея в хряна, светът е хрян."
04:48
"To a worm in horseradish,
the world is horseradish."
the world is horseradish."
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Това бил неговият хрян. (Смях) Той бил обсебен от него.
04:51
This was his horseradish.
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04:52
(Laughter)
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04:54
He was obsessed with it!
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04:56
And finally, he had a breakthrough.
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Най-накрая, постигнал пробив. Vlasic Pickles дошли при него
04:59
Vlasic Pickles came to him,
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05:01
and they said, "Doctor Moskowitz,
we want to make the perfect pickle."
we want to make the perfect pickle."
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и казали: "Г-н Московиц -- д-р Московиц --
искаме да направим перфектната туршия." А той казал:
05:06
And he said,
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"Няма перфектна туршия, има перфектни туршии."
05:07
"There is no perfect pickle;
there are only perfect pickles."
there are only perfect pickles."
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И той отишъл при тях и им казал: "Не трябва просто да подобрите обикновената,
05:11
And he came back to them and he said,
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05:12
"You don't just need
to improve your regular;
to improve your regular;
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а трябва да създадете и пикантна."
05:15
you need to create zesty."
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05:16
And that's where we got zesty pickles.
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И оттогава ние имаме пикантни туршии.
05:19
Then the next person came to him:
Campbell's Soup.
Campbell's Soup.
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Следващите, които дошли при него, били Campbell's Soup.
05:21
And this was even more important.
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И това било даже по-важно. На практика,
Хауард създаде своята репутация с Campbell's Soup.
05:23
In fact, Campbell's Soup
is where Howard made his reputation.
is where Howard made his reputation.
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05:27
Campbell's made Prego,
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Campbell's правят Prego, а Prego, в началото на 80-те, се бори с Ragu,
05:28
and Prego, in the early 80s,
was struggling next to Ragù,
was struggling next to Ragù,
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05:32
which was the dominant
spaghetti sauce of the 70s and 80s.
spaghetti sauce of the 70s and 80s.
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които са доминиращият сос за спагети през 70-те и 80-те.
Малко за индустрията -- не знам дали ви интересува
05:36
In the industry -- I don't
know whether you care about this,
know whether you care about this,
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и колко време имам да навлизам в това,
05:39
or how much time I have to go into this.
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но технически погледнато
05:41
But it was, technically speaking
-- this is an aside --
-- this is an aside --
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Prego е по-добър доматен сос от Ragu.
05:43
Prego is a better tomato sauce than Ragù.
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Качеството на доматената паста е по-добро, подправките са превъзходни,
05:45
The quality of the tomato paste
is much better;
is much better;
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05:48
the spice mix is far superior;
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и слепва със спагетите много по-приятно.
05:50
it adheres to the pasta
in a much more pleasing way.
in a much more pleasing way.
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05:52
In fact, they would do
the famous bowl test
the famous bowl test
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Знаменития тест с купата през 70-те е правен с Ragu и Prego.
05:54
back in the 70s with Ragù and Prego.
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05:57
You'd have a plate of spaghetti,
and you would pour it on, right?
and you would pour it on, right?
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Имате чиния със спагети и я поливате с доматен сос.
И сосът Ragu пропада надолу, а Prego остава отгоре.
06:01
And the Ragù would all go to the bottom,
and the Prego would sit on top.
and the Prego would sit on top.
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На това му се казва "слепване".
06:05
That's called "adherence."
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06:07
And, anyway, despite the fact
that they were far superior in adherence,
that they were far superior in adherence,
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И въпреки значителното си превъзходство както в слепването,
така и в качеството на доматения си сос, Prego се мъчеха.
06:12
and the quality of their tomato paste,
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06:14
Prego was struggling.
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06:16
So they came to Howard,
and they said, fix us.
and they said, fix us.
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Затова те отишли при Хауард и му казали: "Оправи ни."
06:19
And Howard looked
at their product line, and he said,
at their product line, and he said,
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Хауард погледнал продуктовата им линия и казал:
Това, което имате, е "общество на мъртвите домати."
06:22
what you have is a dead tomato society.
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И казал: "Ето какво искам да направим."
06:25
So he said, this is what I want to do.
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И отишъл в кухнята на Campbell's soup
06:28
And he got together
with the Campbell's soup kitchen,
with the Campbell's soup kitchen,
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и направил 45 вариации на сос за спагети. И ги разделил
06:30
and he made 45 varieties
of spaghetti sauce.
of spaghetti sauce.
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06:34
And he varied them according
to every conceivable way
to every conceivable way
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по всички възможно начини, по които можете да различите доматен сос.
06:37
that you can vary tomato sauce:
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06:38
by sweetness, by level of garlic,
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По сладост, по нивото на чесъна, по тръпчивост, по киселост, по доматеност,
06:40
by tomatoey-ness,
by tartness, by sourness,
by tartness, by sourness,
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по видими втвърдявания -- любимият ми термин от бизнеса с доматен сос. (Смях)
06:43
by visible solids --
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06:45
my favorite term
in the spaghetti sauce business.
in the spaghetti sauce business.
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06:48
(Laughter)
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06:49
Every conceivable way
you can vary spaghetti sauce,
you can vary spaghetti sauce,
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По какъвто и начин да се сетите да различавате сосовете за спагети, той ги различил.
06:53
he varied spaghetti sauce.
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И после взел цялата тази сюрия от 45 вида сос за спагети, и тръгнал на път.
06:54
And then he took this whole raft
of 45 spaghetti sauces,
of 45 spaghetti sauces,
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06:58
and he went on the road.
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Отишъл в Ню Йорк, отишъл в Чикаго, отишъл в Джаксънвил,
06:59
He went to New York, to Chicago,
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отишъл в Лос Анджелис. И събирал хора с камари. В големи зали.
07:01
he went to Jacksonville, to Los Angeles.
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07:03
And he brought in people
by the truckload into big halls.
by the truckload into big halls.
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07:07
And he sat them down for two hours,
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Държал ги вътре по два часа и им давал
07:09
and over the course of that two hours,
he gave them ten bowls.
he gave them ten bowls.
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(в продължение на тези два часа) десет купи.
07:12
Ten small bowls of pasta,
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Десет малки купи спагети с различен сос във всяка от тях.
07:13
with a different spaghetti
sauce on each one.
sauce on each one.
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След като изяждали всяка купа, те трябвало да оценят от 0 до 100
07:16
And after they ate each bowl,
they had to rate, from 0 to 100,
they had to rate, from 0 to 100,
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колко добър според тях бил сосът.
07:21
how good they thought
the spaghetti sauce was.
the spaghetti sauce was.
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В края на този процес, след като го правел месеци наред,
07:24
At the end of that process,
after doing it for months and months,
after doing it for months and months,
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той имал планини от данни
07:27
he had a mountain of data
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за това как американският народ обича доматения сос.
07:28
about how the American people
feel about spaghetti sauce.
feel about spaghetti sauce.
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07:32
And then he analyzed the data.
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И след това анализирал данните.
07:34
Did he look for the most popular
variety of spaghetti sauce?
variety of spaghetti sauce?
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Мислите, че е търсел най-популярната вариация на сос за спагети? Не!
07:38
No! Howard doesn't believe
that there is such a thing.
that there is such a thing.
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Хауард не вярва, че има такова нещо.
Вместо това, той погледнал данните и казал:
07:41
Instead, he looked
at the data, and he said,
at the data, and he said,
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"Да видим дали можем да групираме различните данни в гроздове.
07:43
let's see if we can group all these
different data points into clusters.
different data points into clusters.
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07:48
Let's see if they congregate
around certain ideas.
around certain ideas.
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Да видим дали се струпват около определени идеи."
07:51
And sure enough, if you sit down,
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И действително, ако седнете и анализирате всички тези данни за сосовете,
07:54
and you analyze all this data
on spaghetti sauce,
on spaghetti sauce,
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07:57
you realize that all Americans
fall into one of three groups.
fall into one of three groups.
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ще видите, че всички американци попадат в една от три групи.
Има хора, които харесват соса за спагети чист,
08:01
There are people
who like their spaghetti sauce plain;
who like their spaghetti sauce plain;
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Има такива, които харесват соса пикантен
08:04
there are people
who like their spaghetti sauce spicy;
who like their spaghetti sauce spicy;
170
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08:06
and there are people
who like it extra chunky.
who like it extra chunky.
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и има такива, които го харесват екстра-гъст.
08:09
And of those three facts,
the third one was the most significant,
the third one was the most significant,
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И от тези три факта, третият е най-значимият.
08:13
because at the time, in the early 1980s,
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Защото по онова време, в началото на 80-те,
ако отидете в супермаркета
08:16
if you went to a supermarket,
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не бихте намерили екстра-гъст сос за спагети.
08:18
you would not find
extra-chunky spaghetti sauce.
extra-chunky spaghetti sauce.
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08:21
And Prego turned to Howard, and they said,
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Prego се обърнали към Хауард и му казали:
"Искате да кажете, че една трета от американците копнеят за екстра-гъст сос
08:23
"You're telling me
that one third of Americans
that one third of Americans
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08:26
crave extra-chunky spaghetti sauce
178
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08:29
and yet no one is servicing their needs?"
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и все още никой не обслужва техните нужди?" И той отговорил: "Да!"
08:32
And he said "Yes!"
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08:33
(Laughter)
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(Смях) И Prego си отишли,
08:34
And Prego then went back,
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напълно преформулирали техния сос за спагети
08:36
and completely reformulated
their spaghetti sauce,
their spaghetti sauce,
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и се излезли с линия от екстра-гъст сос, който мигновено и напълно
08:38
and came out with a line of extra chunky
that immediately and completely
that immediately and completely
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завладял бизнеса със сос за спагети в тази страна.
08:42
took over the spaghetti sauce
business in this country.
business in this country.
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И в следващите 10 години те направили 600 милиона долара
08:45
And over the next 10 years,
they made 600 million dollars
they made 600 million dollars
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само от продажбата на екстра-гъст сос.
08:49
off their line of extra-chunky sauces.
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08:52
Everyone else in the industry looked
at Howard had done, and they said,
at Howard had done, and they said,
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Всички в индустрията видели какво е направил Хауард и казали:
"О, Боже! Ние сме мислели напълно погрешно!"
08:56
"Oh my god! We've been
thinking all wrong!"
thinking all wrong!"
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2407
08:58
And that's when you started to get
seven different kinds of vinegar,
seven different kinds of vinegar,
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И това е момента, от който започнахте да получавате 7 различни вида оцет,
14 различни вида горчица и 71 различни вида зехтин.
09:02
and 14 different kinds of mustard,
and 71 different kinds of olive oil.
and 71 different kinds of olive oil.
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Тогава даже и Ragu наели Хауард
09:07
And then eventually
even Ragù hired Howard,
even Ragù hired Howard,
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09:10
and Howard did the exact same thing
for Ragù that he did for Prego.
for Ragù that he did for Prego.
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и той направил съвсем същото и за тях, както направил и за Prego.
И днес, ако отидете в някой наистина добър супермаркет
09:14
And today, if you go
to a really good supermarket,
to a really good supermarket,
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погледнете колко много видове Ragu има там.
09:16
do you know how many Ragùs there are?
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Знаете ли колко са? 36!
09:18
36!
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09:20
In six varieties:
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В шест разновидности: Сирене, Лек, Як,
09:22
Cheese, Light,
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09:25
Robusto, Rich & Hearty,
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Богат и здрав, Традиционен (от Стария свят), Екстра-гъст градински. (Смях)
09:28
Old World Traditional --
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09:32
Extra-Chunky Garden.
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09:34
(Laughter)
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09:35
That's Howard's doing.
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Това е дело на Хауард. Това е неговият подарък за американския народ.
09:37
That is Howard's gift
to the American people.
to the American people.
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2208
09:39
Now why is that important?
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Сега, защо това е важно?
09:41
(Laughter)
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09:43
It is, in fact, enormously important.
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Това е, на практика, страшно важно. Ще ви обясня защо.
09:45
I'll explain to you why.
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09:47
What Howard did is he fundamentally
changed the way the food industry thinks
changed the way the food industry thinks
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Хауард промени из основи начина, по който хранителната индустрия мисли
за това как да ви направи щастливи.
09:51
about making you happy.
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09:53
Assumption number one
in the food industry used to be
in the food industry used to be
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Предположение номер едно в индустрията беше,
09:56
that the way to find out
what people want to eat,
what people want to eat,
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че начинът да разберем какво искат хората да ядат --
09:59
what will make people happy,
is to ask them.
is to ask them.
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т.е. което ще ги направи щастливи -- е да ги попитаме.
10:02
And for years and years and years,
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И в продължение на години и години, Ragu и Prego имаха
10:04
Ragù and Prego would have focus groups,
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фокусни групи. Те ги разполагаха да седнат и ги питаха:
10:06
and they would sit you down,
and they would say,
and they would say,
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"Какво искате в соса за спагети? Кажете ни какво искате в соса за спагети!"
10:08
"What do you want in a spaghetti sauce?
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10:10
Tell us what you want
in a spaghetti sauce."
in a spaghetti sauce."
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И през всичките тези години -- 20, 30 години --
10:12
And for all those years -- 20, 30 years --
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10:15
through all those focus group sessions,
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591000
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през всичките тези сесии с фокусни групи,
10:17
no one ever said they wanted extra-chunky.
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никой не беше казал, че искат екстра-гъст сос.
10:21
Even though at least a third of them,
deep in their hearts, actually did.
deep in their hearts, actually did.
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При положение, че една трета от тях, дълбоко в сърцата си са искали точно това.
(Смях)
10:25
(Laughter)
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10:27
People don't know what they want!
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2012
Хората не знаят какво искат! Нали?
10:29
As Howard loves to say,
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Хауард обича да казва: "Умът знае не това, което езикът иска."
10:31
"The mind knows not
what the tongue wants."
what the tongue wants."
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Това е загадка!
10:33
It's a mystery!
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1152
10:34
(Laughter)
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1004
Изключително важна стъпка в разбирането на нашите собствени желания
10:35
And a critically important step
229
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10:38
in understanding
our own desires and tastes
our own desires and tastes
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3331
и вкусове е да осъзнаем, че не можем винаги да обясним какво искаме.
10:41
is to realize that we cannot always
explain what we want, deep down.
explain what we want, deep down.
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Ако, например, попитам всички в тази зала, какво кафе предпочитате,
10:46
If I asked all of you, for example,
in this room, what you want in a coffee,
in this room, what you want in a coffee,
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какво ще ми отговорите? Всеки би казал: "Искам тъмно, богато, добре изпечено".
10:50
you know what you'd say?
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10:51
Every one of you would say,
"I want a dark, rich, hearty roast."
"I want a dark, rich, hearty roast."
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Хората винаги отговарят така, когато ги питат какво кафе предпочитат.
10:56
It's what people always say
when you ask them.
when you ask them.
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Какво искате вие? Тъмно, богато, добре изпечено!
10:58
"What do you like?"
"Dark, rich, hearty roast!"
"Dark, rich, hearty roast!"
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2532
Какъв процент от вас действително харесват тъмно, богато, добре изпечено?
11:01
What percentage of you actually
like a dark, rich, hearty roast?
like a dark, rich, hearty roast?
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11:04
According to Howard, somewhere
between 25 and 27 percent of you.
between 25 and 27 percent of you.
238
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3048
Според Хауард, някъде между 25 и 27 процента от вас.
Повечето от вас харесват слабо кафе с мляко.
11:08
Most of you like milky, weak coffee.
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2195
11:10
(Laughter)
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1001
11:11
But you will never, ever say
to someone who asks you what you want
to someone who asks you what you want
241
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3332
Но вие никога няма да кажете на някой, който ви пита какво искате
"Искам слабо кафе с мляко". (Смях)
11:14
that "I want a milky, weak coffee."
242
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Това е първото нещо, което Хауард направи.
11:17
So that's number one thing
that Howard did.
that Howard did.
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11:21
Number two thing that Howard did
is he made us realize --
is he made us realize --
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3448
Второто нещо, което Хауард направи, е, че ни накара да осъзнаем --
11:24
it's another very critical point --
245
660000
1976
това е друга много критична точка --
11:26
he made us realize the importance
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2174
той ни накара да разберем важността на "хоризонталната сегментация".
11:28
of what he likes to call
"horizontal segmentation."
"horizontal segmentation."
247
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2999
11:32
Why is this critical?
248
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Защо е критична? Критична е, защото
11:33
Because this is the way the food industry
thought before Howard.
thought before Howard.
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3698
това е начинът, по който хранителната индустрия мислеше преди Хауард.
С какво се занимаваше тя в началото на 80-те? С горчица.
11:37
What were they obsessed with
in the early 80s?
in the early 80s?
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11:39
They were obsessed with mustard.
251
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1540
11:41
In particular, they were obsessed
with the story of Grey Poupon.
with the story of Grey Poupon.
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3317
В частност, тя се занимаваше с историята на Grey Poupon.
11:44
Used to be, there were two mustards:
French's and Gulden's.
French's and Gulden's.
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Така беше, тогава имаше два вида горчица. На French и на Gulden.
Какви бяха те? Жълти. Какво има в жълтата горчица?
11:48
What were they? Yellow mustard.
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11:49
What's in it?
255
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1015
Синапени зърна, куркума и пипер. Това беше горчицата.
11:50
Yellow mustard seeds,
turmeric, and paprika.
turmeric, and paprika.
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2054
11:52
That was mustard.
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11:53
Grey Poupon came along, with a Dijon.
258
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Grey Poupon се появиха с Dijon. Нали?
11:56
Right?
259
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1188
Много по-летливи кафяви синапени зърна, малко бяло вино, хит за носа --
11:57
Much more volatile brown mustard seed,
some white wine, a nose hit,
some white wine, a nose hit,
260
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много по-деликатни аромати. И какво направиха те?
12:03
much more delicate aromatics.
261
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1938
12:05
And what do they do?
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Те я сложиха в мъничко стъклено бурканче, с чудесен инкрустиран етикет върху него
12:06
They put it in a little tiny glass jar,
with a wonderful enameled label on it,
with a wonderful enameled label on it,
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и го направиха да изглежда френско, въпреки че се правеше в Окснард, Калифорния.
12:11
made it look French,
264
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12:12
even though it's made
in Oxnard, California.
in Oxnard, California.
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12:14
(Laughter)
266
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1001
И вместо да вземат по долар и петдесет за бутилка от 250 мг,
12:15
And instead of charging a dollar fifty
for the eight-ounce bottle,
for the eight-ounce bottle,
267
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12:19
the way that French's and Gulden's did,
268
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1973
както правеха French и Gulden, те решиха да вземат по 4 долара.
12:21
they decided to charge four dollars.
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1727
И тогава те пуснаха онези реклами, нали? С човека в Ролс-Ройса,
12:23
And they had those ads.
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1212
12:24
With the guy in the Rolls Royce,
eating the Grey Poupon.
eating the Grey Poupon.
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който яде Grey Poupon, идва друг с Ролс-Ройс
12:27
Another pulls up, and says,
"Do you have any Grey Poupon?"
"Do you have any Grey Poupon?"
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и казва: "Имате ли Grey Poupon?"
И в крайна сметка, след като направиха това, Grey Poupon отлетяха!
12:30
And the whole thing, after they did that,
Grey Poupon takes off!
Grey Poupon takes off!
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Завладяха целия бизнес с горчица!
12:33
Takes over the mustard business!
274
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А урокът за всички беше,
12:35
And everyone's take-home lesson from that
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2008
12:37
was that the way to make people happy
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че начинът да направиш хората щастливи,
12:41
is to give them something
that is more expensive,
that is more expensive,
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е да им дадеш нещо, което е по-скъпо, нещо, към което да се стремят.
12:45
something to aspire to.
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Да ги накараш да обърнат гръб на онова, което си мислят, че харесват сега
12:47
It's to make them turn their back
on what they think they like now,
on what they think they like now,
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12:51
and reach out for something
higher up the mustard hierarchy.
higher up the mustard hierarchy.
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и да се протегнат към нещо по-нависоко в горчичената йерархия.
12:54
(Laughter)
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По-добра горчица! По-скъпа горчица!
12:55
A better mustard!
A more expensive mustard!
A more expensive mustard!
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Горчица с повече изтънченост, култура и смисъл.
12:58
A mustard of more sophistication
and culture and meaning.
and culture and meaning.
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А Хауард видя това и каза: "Това е грешно!"
13:01
And Howard looked to that
and said, "That's wrong!"
and said, "That's wrong!"
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Горчицата не съществува в йерархия.
13:04
Mustard does not exist on a hierarchy.
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Горчицата съществува, както и доматения сос, в хоризонтална равнина.
13:07
Mustard exists, just like tomato sauce,
on a horizontal plane.
on a horizontal plane.
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13:11
There is no good mustard or bad mustard.
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Няма добра горчица и лоша горчица.
13:14
There is no perfect mustard
or imperfect mustard.
or imperfect mustard.
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Няма съвършена горчица и несъвършена горчица.
Има само различни видове горчица, които задоволяват различни видове хора.
13:16
There are only different kinds of mustards
that suit different kinds of people.
that suit different kinds of people.
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Той демократизира из основи начина, по който мислим за вкуса.
13:21
He fundamentally democratized
the way we think about taste.
the way we think about taste.
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И за това също дължим на Хауард Московиц огромна благодарност.
13:26
And for that, as well, we owe
Howard Moskowitz a huge vote of thanks.
Howard Moskowitz a huge vote of thanks.
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Третото нещо, което Хауард направи, и може би най-важното,
13:31
Third thing that Howard did,
and perhaps the most important,
and perhaps the most important,
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13:34
is Howard confronted the notion
of the Platonic dish.
of the Platonic dish.
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е, че оспори схващането за Платоническото ядене. (Смях)
13:37
(Laughter)
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Какво имам предвид?
13:38
What do I mean by that?
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13:39
(Laughter)
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Най-дълго време в хранителната индустрия
13:41
For the longest time in the food industry,
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битуваше нагласата, че има един, перфектен начин да приготвиш ядене.
13:43
there was a sense that there was one way,
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13:45
a perfect way, to make a dish.
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13:49
You go to Chez Panisse,
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Отивате в Chez Panisse и те ви дават сашими от сом
13:51
they give you the red-tail sashimi
with roasted pumpkin seeds
with roasted pumpkin seeds
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с печени тиквени семки с някаква отстъпка.
13:56
in a something something reduction.
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Не ви дават пет опции за отстъпка, нали?
13:58
They don't give you five options
on the reduction.
on the reduction.
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14:00
They don't say, "Do you want
the extra-chunky reduction, or ...?"
the extra-chunky reduction, or ...?"
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Не казват: "Искате ли отстъпка за екстра-гъст или някаква друга?" Не!
14:04
No!
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Просто вземате отстъпката. Защо? Защото главният готвач
14:05
You just get the reduction. Why?
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14:07
Because the chef at Chez Panisse
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има платонически възглед за сашимито от сом.
14:08
has a Platonic notion
about red-tail sashimi.
about red-tail sashimi.
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Така и трябва да бъде.
14:11
"This is the way it ought to be."
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14:13
And she serves it that way
time and time again,
time and time again,
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И тя го предлага по този начин всеки път
14:17
and if you quarrel with her, she will say,
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и ако й възразите, тя ще ви отговори:
"Вие грешите! В този ресторант това е най-добрия начин."
14:20
"You know what? You're wrong!
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14:22
This is the best way it ought to be
in this restaurant."
in this restaurant."
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Същата идея подхранваше и хранителната индустрия.
14:25
Now that same idea fueled
the commercial food industry as well.
the commercial food industry as well.
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Те имаха платоническо виждане за доматения сос.
14:29
They had a Platonic notion
of what tomato sauce was.
of what tomato sauce was.
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И откъде дойде то? От Италия.
14:32
And where did that come from?
It came from Italy.
It came from Italy.
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14:34
Italian tomato sauce is what?
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Какъв е италианския доматен сос? Той е смесен и е рядък.
14:37
It's blended; it's thin.
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Културата на доматения сос беше рядка.
14:39
The culture of tomato sauce was thin.
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14:41
When we talked about "authentic
tomato sauce" in the 1970s,
tomato sauce" in the 1970s,
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Когато говорим за автентичен доматен сос от 1970-те,
14:44
we talked about Italian tomato sauce,
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говорим за италиански сос. Говорим за най-ранните сосове.
14:46
we talked about the earliest Ragùs,
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Които нямат никакви "видими втвърдявания", нали?
14:48
which had no visible solids, right?
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14:50
Which were thin, you just put a little bit
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Които бяха редки и като сипете малко от тях
то потъва надолу през спагетите.
14:52
and it sunk down to the bottom
of the pasta.
of the pasta.
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Така беше. И защо бяхме привързани към това?
14:55
That's what it was.
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14:56
And why were we attached to that?
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Защото мислехме, че за да направим хората щастливи.
14:57
Because we thought
that what it took to make people happy
that what it took to make people happy
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трябва да им дадем най-автентичния доматен сос - А)
15:00
was to provide them with the most
culturally authentic tomato sauce, A.
culturally authentic tomato sauce, A.
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15:05
And B, we thought that if we gave them
the culturally authentic tomato sauce,
the culturally authentic tomato sauce,
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и Б) - мислехме, че като им дадем културно автентичен доматен сос,
те ще го прегърнат.
15:10
then they would embrace it.
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И че така ще задоволим максимален брой хора.
15:11
And that's what would please
the maximum number of people.
the maximum number of people.
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А причината да мислим така е, че
15:15
In other words,
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хората в готварската индустрия търсеха универсални решения.
15:17
people in the cooking world
were looking for cooking universals.
were looking for cooking universals.
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Търсеха единствен начин да обслужват всички нас.
15:21
They were looking for one way
to treat all of us.
to treat all of us.
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15:23
And it's good reason for them
to be obsessed
to be obsessed
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А те бяха обсебени от универсалностите, защото
15:26
with the idea of universals,
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науката през 19-ти и през голяма част от 20-ти век
15:27
because all of science,
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15:29
through the 19th century
and much of the 20th,
and much of the 20th,
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беше обсебена от универсалности.
15:31
was obsessed with universals.
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906502
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Психолозите, медиците и икономистите се бореха да открият
15:32
Psychologists, medical scientists,
economists
economists
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15:37
were all interested
in finding out the rules
in finding out the rules
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правилата, които определят нашето поведение
15:39
that govern the way all of us behave.
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Но това се промени.
15:42
But that changed, right?
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15:43
What is the great revolution
in science of the last 10, 15 years?
in science of the last 10, 15 years?
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Кое направи великата революция в науката от последните 10-15 години?
Промяната от търсене на универсалности към разбиране на разнообразието.
15:47
It is the movement
from the search for universals
from the search for universals
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15:50
to the understanding of variability.
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В медицината, например, вече не търсим да разберем
15:53
Now in medical science,
we don't want to know, necessarily,
we don't want to know, necessarily,
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15:56
just how cancer works,
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как работи рака, а с какво вашият рак се различава от моя.
15:58
we want to know how your cancer
is different from my cancer.
is different from my cancer.
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16:01
I guess my cancer different
from your cancer.
from your cancer.
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Предполагам, че моят рак е различен от вашия.
16:04
Genetics has opened the door
to the study of human variability.
to the study of human variability.
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Генетиката отвори врати към изучаването на човешкото разнообразие.
16:08
What Howard Moskowitz
was doing was saying,
was doing was saying,
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Хауард Московиц казваше, че същата революция
16:10
"This same revolution needs to happen
in the world of tomato sauce."
in the world of tomato sauce."
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трябва да се случи и в света на доматения сос.
16:15
And for that, we owe him
a great vote of thanks.
a great vote of thanks.
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И за това също му дължим огромна благодарност.
Ще ви дам последна илюстрация на разнообразието - извинете.
16:20
I'll give you one last
illustration of variability,
illustration of variability,
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16:22
and that is -- oh, I'm sorry.
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16:24
Howard not only believed that,
but he took it a second step,
but he took it a second step,
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Хауард не само вярваше в това, но направи и следващата стъпка
казвайки, че когато преследваме универсални принципи в храненето,
16:28
which was to say that when we pursue
universal principles in food,
universal principles in food,
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16:33
we aren't just making an error;
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ние не просто грешим, ние си нанасяме огромна вреда.
16:35
we are actually doing ourselves
a massive disservice.
a massive disservice.
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16:38
And the example he used was coffee.
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И примерът, който използваше, беше кафето.
А той беше работил много върху кафето с Нескафе.
16:41
And coffee is something he did
a lot of work with, with Nescafé.
a lot of work with, with Nescafé.
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16:45
If I were to ask all of you to try
and come up with a brand of coffee --
and come up with a brand of coffee --
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Ако ви попитам да се сетите за марката кафе
или вида, който прави всички ви щастливи,
16:49
a type of coffee, a brew --
that made all of you happy,
that made all of you happy,
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и ви помоля да го оцените, средната оценка
16:52
and then I asked you to rate that coffee,
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на кафето в тази зала би била около 60 по скала от 0 до 100.
16:54
the average score in this room for coffee
would be about 60 on a scale of 0 to 100.
would be about 60 on a scale of 0 to 100.
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16:58
If, however, you allowed me
to break you into coffee clusters,
to break you into coffee clusters,
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Но, ако позволите да ви разделя на групи -
може би три или четири групи,
17:02
maybe three or four coffee clusters,
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и ако можех да направя кафе за всяка от тези групи,
17:04
and I could make coffee just
for each of those individual clusters,
for each of those individual clusters,
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17:08
your scores would go from 60 to 75 or 78.
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вашите оценки биха се вдигнали от 60 до 75 или 78.
17:12
The difference between coffee
at 60 and coffee at 78
at 60 and coffee at 78
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Разликата между кафе с оценка 60 и с оценка 78
е разликата между кафе, което те кара да тръпнеш
17:18
is a difference between coffee
that makes you wince,
that makes you wince,
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17:20
and coffee that makes you
deliriously happy.
deliriously happy.
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и кафе, което те прави лудо щастлив.
17:24
That is the final, and I think
most beautiful lesson,
most beautiful lesson,
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Това е последния и може би най-красивият урок от Хауард Московиц.
17:27
of Howard Moskowitz:
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Приемайки различията на човешките същества
17:29
that in embracing the diversity
of human beings,
of human beings,
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17:32
we will find a surer way
to true happiness.
to true happiness.
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ще открием по-сигурен път към истинското щастие.
17:35
Thank you.
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Благодаря.
17:36
(Applause)
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1166
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Malcolm Gladwell - WriterDetective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence.
Why you should listen
Malcolm Gladwell searches for the counterintuitive in what we all take to be the mundane: cookies, sneakers, pasta sauce. A New Yorker staff writer since 1996, he visits obscure laboratories and infomercial set kitchens as often as the hangouts of freelance cool-hunters -- a sort of pop-R&D gumshoe -- and for that has become a star lecturer and bestselling author.
Sparkling with curiosity, undaunted by difficult research (yet an eloquent, accessible writer), his work uncovers truths hidden in strange data. His always-delightful blog tackles topics from serial killers to steroids in sports, while provocative recent work in the New Yorker sheds new light on the Flynn effect -- the decades-spanning rise in I.Q. scores.
Gladwell has written four books. The Tipping Point, which began as a New Yorker piece, applies the principles of epidemiology to crime (and sneaker sales), while Blink examines the unconscious processes that allow the mind to "thin slice" reality -- and make decisions in the blink of an eye. His third book, Outliers, questions the inevitabilities of success and identifies the relation of success to nature versus nurture. The newest work, What the Dog Saw and Other Adventures, is an anthology of his New Yorker contributions.
He says: "There is more going on beneath the surface than we think, and more going on in little, finite moments of time than we would guess."
Malcolm Gladwell | Speaker | TED.com