TEDGlobal 2017
Walé Oyéjidé: Fashion that celebrates African strength and spirit
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"To be African is to be inspired by culture and to be filled with undying hope for the future," says designer and TED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé. With his label Ikiré Jones (you'll see their work in Marvel's "Black Panther"), he uses classic design to showcase the elegance and grace of often-marginalized groups, in beautifully cut clothing that tells a story.
Walé Oyéjidé - Designer, writer, musician, lawyer
TED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling. Full bio
TED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
It is often said that the stories
of history are written by its victors,
of history are written by its victors,
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but if this is true,
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what becomes of the downtrodden,
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and how can they ever hope
to aspire for something greater
to aspire for something greater
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if they are never told the stories
of their own glorious pasts?
of their own glorious pasts?
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Ostensibly, I stand before you
as a mere maker of clothing,
as a mere maker of clothing,
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but within the folds of ancient fabrics
and modern textiles,
and modern textiles,
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I have found a higher calling.
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Through my work as a designer,
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I've discovered the importance
of providing representation
of providing representation
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for the marginalized members
of our society,
of our society,
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and the importance of telling
the most vulnerable among us
the most vulnerable among us
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that they no longer have
to compromise themselves
to compromise themselves
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just so they can fit in
with an uncompromising majority.
with an uncompromising majority.
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It turns out that fashion,
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a discipline many of us
consider to be trivial,
consider to be trivial,
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can actually be a powerful tool
for dismantling bias
for dismantling bias
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and bolstering the self-images
of underrepresented populations.
of underrepresented populations.
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My interest in using design
as a vehicle for social change
as a vehicle for social change
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happens to be a personal one.
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As a Nigerian American,
I know how easily the term "African"
I know how easily the term "African"
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can slip from being
an ordinary geographic descriptor
an ordinary geographic descriptor
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to becoming a pejorative.
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For those of us
from this beautiful continent,
from this beautiful continent,
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to be African is to be inspired by culture
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and to be filled with undying
hope for the future.
hope for the future.
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So in an attempt to shift
the misguided perceptions that many have
the misguided perceptions that many have
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about the place of my birth,
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I use design as a means to tell stories,
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stories about joy,
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stories about triumph,
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stories about perseverance
all throughout the African diaspora.
all throughout the African diaspora.
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I tell these stories
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as a concerted effort
to correct the historical record,
to correct the historical record,
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because, no matter
where any of us is from,
where any of us is from,
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each of us has been touched
by the complicated histories
by the complicated histories
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that brought our families
to a foreign land.
to a foreign land.
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These histories shape
the way we view the world,
the way we view the world,
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and they mold the biases
we carry around with us.
we carry around with us.
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To combat these biases,
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my work draws aesthetics
from different parts of the globe
from different parts of the globe
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and crafts a narrative
about the importance
about the importance
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of fighting for inclusivity.
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By refashioning images
from classic European art
from classic European art
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and marrying them with African aesthetics,
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I am able to recast people of color
in roles of prominence,
in roles of prominence,
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providing them with a degree of dignity
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they didn't have in earlier times.
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This approach subverts the historically
accepted narrative of African inferiority,
accepted narrative of African inferiority,
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and it serves as inspiration
for people of color
for people of color
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who have grown wary of seeing
themselves depicted without sophistication
themselves depicted without sophistication
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and without grace.
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Each of these culture-bending tapestries
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becomes a tailored garment
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or a silk scarf, like the one I am
very coincidentally wearing right now.
very coincidentally wearing right now.
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(Laughter)
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And even when surrounded
in a structure of European classicism,
in a structure of European classicism,
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these narratives boldly extoll
the merits of African empowerment.
the merits of African empowerment.
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In this way, the tools of the masters
become masterworks
become masterworks
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to celebrate those
who were once subservient.
who were once subservient.
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This metaphor extends
beyond the realm of art
beyond the realm of art
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and out into the real world.
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Whether worn by refugees
or world-changing entrepreneurs,
or world-changing entrepreneurs,
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when people are allowed
the freedom to present themselves
the freedom to present themselves
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in a manner that celebrates
their own unique identities,
their own unique identities,
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a magical thing happens.
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We stand taller.
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We're more proud and self-aware
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because we're presenting
our true, authentic selves.
our true, authentic selves.
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And those of us who are around them
in turn become more educated,
in turn become more educated,
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more open and more tolerant
of their different points of view.
of their different points of view.
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In this way, the clothes that we wear
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can be a great illustration
of diplomatic soft power.
of diplomatic soft power.
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The clothes that we wear
can serve as bridges
can serve as bridges
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between our seemingly disparate cultures.
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And so, yeah, ostensibly I stand
before you as a mere maker of clothing.
before you as a mere maker of clothing.
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But my work has always
been about more than fashion.
been about more than fashion.
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It has become my purpose
to rewrite the cultural narratives
to rewrite the cultural narratives
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so that people of color can be seen
in a new and nuanced light,
in a new and nuanced light,
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and so that we,
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the proud children of sub-Saharan Africa,
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can traverse the globe
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while carrying ourselves with pride.
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It was indeed true
that the stories of history
that the stories of history
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were told by its old victors,
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but I am of a new generation.
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My work speaks for those
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who will no longer let their futures
be dictated by a troubled past.
be dictated by a troubled past.
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Today, we stand ready
to tell our own stories
to tell our own stories
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without compromise, without apologies.
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But the question still remains:
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are you prepared
for what you are about to hear?
for what you are about to hear?
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I hope you are, because
we are coming regardless.
we are coming regardless.
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(Applause)
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Walé Oyéjidé - Designer, writer, musician, lawyerTED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling.
Why you should listen
As the founder of Ikiré Jones, Walé Oyéjidé, Esq. employs fashion design as a vehicle to celebrate the perspectives of marginalized populations.
In addition to his role as the brand's creative director, Walé Oyéjidé designs Ikiré Jones's textiles/accessories and serves as the company's writer. Oyéjidé is a TED Fellow, and his apparel design can be seen in the upcoming Marvel Studios film "Black Panther."
Oyéjidé's design work was part of the "Making Africa" contemporary design exhibit, which was at the Vitra Design Museum in Germany, the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain, the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, and the HIGH Museum of Art in Atlanta. He was also featured in the "Creative Africa" exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. His work exhibited at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art and the Fowler Museum, UCLA. He has been invited to lecture about his work in Brazil, Ecuador, France and Tanzania. His designs also appeared as part of the "Generation Africa" fashion show at Pitti Uomo 89 in Florence, Italy.
Oyéjidé's writings include freelance creative copywriting for Airbnb. He is also an attorney, public speaker, and a recording artist/producer that has collaborated with J-Dilla and MF Doom, among others. And for what it's worth, Esquire Magazine noted Oyéjidé as one of the best-dressed men in the United States.
Walé Oyéjidé | Speaker | TED.com