TEDGlobal 2017
Walé Oyéjidé: Fashion that celebrates African strength and spirit
Vale Ojeđide (Walé Oyéjidé): Moda koja slavi afričku snagu i duh
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„Biti Afrikanac znači biti inspirisan kulturom i biti ispunjen besmrtnom nadom za budućnost“, kaže dizajner i TED Fellow, Vale Ojeđide. Svojom markom Ikiré Jones (možete pogledati njihov rad u Marvelovom „Crnom Panteru“), on koristi klasični dizajn kako bi prikazao eleganciju i gracioznost često marginalizovanih grupa, u prelepo iskrojenoj odeći koja priča priču.
Walé Oyéjidé - Designer, writer, musician, lawyer
TED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling. Full bio
TED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
It is often said that the stories
of history are written by its victors,
of history are written by its victors,
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Često se kaže da priče
iz istorije pišu pobednici,
iz istorije pišu pobednici,
00:17
but if this is true,
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ali ukoliko je ovo istina,
00:18
what becomes of the downtrodden,
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šta se dešava sa ugnjetavanima
00:20
and how can they ever hope
to aspire for something greater
to aspire for something greater
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i kako oni mogu da se nadaju
da teže ka nečemu većem
da teže ka nečemu većem
00:23
if they are never told the stories
of their own glorious pasts?
of their own glorious pasts?
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ukoliko im nisu pričali priče
o njihovoj sopstvenoj slavnoj prošlosti?
o njihovoj sopstvenoj slavnoj prošlosti?
00:27
Ostensibly, I stand before you
as a mere maker of clothing,
as a mere maker of clothing,
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Prividno stojim ispred vas
samo kao izrađivač odeće,
samo kao izrađivač odeće,
00:31
but within the folds of ancient fabrics
and modern textiles,
and modern textiles,
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ali u naborima, drevnim materijalima
i modernom tekstilu
i modernom tekstilu
00:34
I have found a higher calling.
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ja sam našao više zvanje.
00:37
Through my work as a designer,
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Putem mog rada kao dizajnera,
00:38
I've discovered the importance
of providing representation
of providing representation
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otkrio sam važnost
da omogućim predstavljanje
da omogućim predstavljanje
00:42
for the marginalized members
of our society,
of our society,
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za marginalizovane članove našeg društva
00:45
and the importance of telling
the most vulnerable among us
the most vulnerable among us
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i važnost pričanja
i najosetljivijima među nama
i najosetljivijima među nama
00:48
that they no longer have
to compromise themselves
to compromise themselves
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da više ne moraju da kompromituju sebe
00:50
just so they can fit in
with an uncompromising majority.
with an uncompromising majority.
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samo da bi se uklopili
u beskompromisnu većinu.
u beskompromisnu većinu.
00:54
It turns out that fashion,
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Ispada da moda,
00:56
a discipline many of us
consider to be trivial,
consider to be trivial,
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disciplina za koju mnogi od nas
smatraju da je trivijalna,
smatraju da je trivijalna,
00:58
can actually be a powerful tool
for dismantling bias
for dismantling bias
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može zapravo biti moćan alat
za raskrinkavanje pristrasnosti
za raskrinkavanje pristrasnosti
01:02
and bolstering the self-images
of underrepresented populations.
of underrepresented populations.
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i poboljšanja sopstvene slike
nedovoljno zastupljenih populacija.
nedovoljno zastupljenih populacija.
01:06
My interest in using design
as a vehicle for social change
as a vehicle for social change
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Moje interesovanje za korišćenje dizajna
kao vozila za društvenu promenu
kao vozila za društvenu promenu
01:10
happens to be a personal one.
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slučajno je lične prirode.
Kao nigerijski Amerikanac,
znam kako lako termin „afrički“
znam kako lako termin „afrički“
01:12
As a Nigerian American,
I know how easily the term "African"
I know how easily the term "African"
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01:15
can slip from being
an ordinary geographic descriptor
an ordinary geographic descriptor
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može skliznuti od toga
da je uobičajen geografski opisni termin
da je uobičajen geografski opisni termin
01:18
to becoming a pejorative.
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do toga da postane pogrdan.
01:21
For those of us
from this beautiful continent,
from this beautiful continent,
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Za one među nama
sa ovog prelepog kontinenta,
sa ovog prelepog kontinenta,
01:24
to be African is to be inspired by culture
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biti Afrikanac znači
biti inspirisan kulturom
biti inspirisan kulturom
01:27
and to be filled with undying
hope for the future.
hope for the future.
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i biti ispunjen besmrtnom
nadom za budućnost.
nadom za budućnost.
01:30
So in an attempt to shift
the misguided perceptions that many have
the misguided perceptions that many have
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Pa, u pokušaju da promenim
pogrešne percepcije koje mnogi imaju
pogrešne percepcije koje mnogi imaju
01:35
about the place of my birth,
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o mestu mog rođenja,
01:36
I use design as a means to tell stories,
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koristim dizajn
kao sredstvo da pričam priče,
kao sredstvo da pričam priče,
01:39
stories about joy,
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priče o radosti,
01:41
stories about triumph,
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priče o trijumfu,
01:42
stories about perseverance
all throughout the African diaspora.
all throughout the African diaspora.
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priče o istrajnosti
svuda širom afričke dijaspore.
svuda širom afričke dijaspore.
01:46
I tell these stories
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Pričam ove priče
01:47
as a concerted effort
to correct the historical record,
to correct the historical record,
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kao objedinjeni napor
da ispravim istorijski zapis,
da ispravim istorijski zapis,
01:51
because, no matter
where any of us is from,
where any of us is from,
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zato što, bez obzira na to
odakle je bilo ko od nas,
odakle je bilo ko od nas,
01:54
each of us has been touched
by the complicated histories
by the complicated histories
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svakog od nas su dotakle
komplikovane istorije
komplikovane istorije
01:56
that brought our families
to a foreign land.
to a foreign land.
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koje su dovele naše porodice
u stranu zemlju.
u stranu zemlju.
01:59
These histories shape
the way we view the world,
the way we view the world,
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Ove istorije oblikuju način
na koji vidimo svet
na koji vidimo svet
02:02
and they mold the biases
we carry around with us.
we carry around with us.
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i one su kalupi pristrasnosti
koje nosimo sa sobom.
koje nosimo sa sobom.
02:06
To combat these biases,
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Kako bi pobedio te pristrasnosti,
02:07
my work draws aesthetics
from different parts of the globe
from different parts of the globe
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moj rad privlači estetiku
iz različitih delova sveta
iz različitih delova sveta
02:10
and crafts a narrative
about the importance
about the importance
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i gradi narativ o važnosti
02:12
of fighting for inclusivity.
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borbe za inkluziju.
02:15
By refashioning images
from classic European art
from classic European art
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Promenom slika
iz klasične evropske umetnosti
iz klasične evropske umetnosti
02:18
and marrying them with African aesthetics,
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i njihovim venčanjem
sa afričkom estetikom,
sa afričkom estetikom,
02:20
I am able to recast people of color
in roles of prominence,
in roles of prominence,
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uspeo sam da spojim obojene ljude
sa uglednim ulogama,
sa uglednim ulogama,
02:23
providing them with a degree of dignity
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pruživši im stepen dostojanstva
02:25
they didn't have in earlier times.
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koje oni nisu imali ranije.
02:29
This approach subverts the historically
accepted narrative of African inferiority,
accepted narrative of African inferiority,
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Ovaj pristup podriva istorijski prihvaćene
priče o afričkoj inferiornosti
priče o afričkoj inferiornosti
02:33
and it serves as inspiration
for people of color
for people of color
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i služi kao inspiracija obojenim ljudima
02:36
who have grown wary of seeing
themselves depicted without sophistication
themselves depicted without sophistication
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kojima je dosta da viđaju sebe
prikazane bez sofisticiranosti
prikazane bez sofisticiranosti
02:39
and without grace.
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i bez gracioznosti.
02:42
Each of these culture-bending tapestries
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Svaka od ovih tapiserija
koja menja kulturu
koja menja kulturu
02:44
becomes a tailored garment
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postaje skrojena odeća ili svileni šal,
02:46
or a silk scarf, like the one I am
very coincidentally wearing right now.
very coincidentally wearing right now.
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nalik ovom koji ja
sasvim slučajno nosim upravo sada.
sasvim slučajno nosim upravo sada.
02:50
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
02:51
And even when surrounded
in a structure of European classicism,
in a structure of European classicism,
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Čak i kada smo okruženi
strukturom evropskog klasicizma,
strukturom evropskog klasicizma,
02:55
these narratives boldly extoll
the merits of African empowerment.
the merits of African empowerment.
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ove priče hrabro veličaju
zasluge afričkog osnaživanja.
zasluge afričkog osnaživanja.
02:59
In this way, the tools of the masters
become masterworks
become masterworks
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Na ovaj način, alat u rukama majstora
postaje majstorski rad
postaje majstorski rad
03:04
to celebrate those
who were once subservient.
who were once subservient.
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kako bi slavio one
koji su nekada bili podređeni.
koji su nekada bili podređeni.
03:09
This metaphor extends
beyond the realm of art
beyond the realm of art
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Ova metafora se pruža
širom oblasti umetnosti
širom oblasti umetnosti
03:11
and out into the real world.
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i izlazi u stvaran svet.
03:13
Whether worn by refugees
or world-changing entrepreneurs,
or world-changing entrepreneurs,
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Bilo da ih nose izbeglice
ili preduzetnici koji menjaju svet,
ili preduzetnici koji menjaju svet,
03:16
when people are allowed
the freedom to present themselves
the freedom to present themselves
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kada je ljudima dozvoljena
sloboda da predstavljaju sebe
sloboda da predstavljaju sebe
03:19
in a manner that celebrates
their own unique identities,
their own unique identities,
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na način koji slavi njihove
sopstvene jedinstvene identitete,
sopstvene jedinstvene identitete,
03:22
a magical thing happens.
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magična stvar se dešava.
03:24
We stand taller.
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Mi ponosno stojimo.
03:25
We're more proud and self-aware
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Ponosniji smo i samosvesniji
03:27
because we're presenting
our true, authentic selves.
our true, authentic selves.
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zato što predstavljamo
naše istinsko, autentično biće.
naše istinsko, autentično biće.
03:30
And those of us who are around them
in turn become more educated,
in turn become more educated,
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I oni među nama koji se nalaze oko njih
zauzvrat postaju obrazovaniji,
zauzvrat postaju obrazovaniji,
03:34
more open and more tolerant
of their different points of view.
of their different points of view.
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otvoreniji i tolerantniji prema njihovim
drugačijim tačkama gledišta.
drugačijim tačkama gledišta.
03:38
In this way, the clothes that we wear
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Na ovaj način, odeća koju nosimo
03:41
can be a great illustration
of diplomatic soft power.
of diplomatic soft power.
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može biti velika ilustracija
diplomatske blage moći.
diplomatske blage moći.
03:45
The clothes that we wear
can serve as bridges
can serve as bridges
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Odeća koju nosimo
može nam poslužiti kao most
može nam poslužiti kao most
03:47
between our seemingly disparate cultures.
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između naših naoko različitih kultura.
03:50
And so, yeah, ostensibly I stand
before you as a mere maker of clothing.
before you as a mere maker of clothing.
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I tako, da, prividno stojim
ispred vas kao izrađivač odeće.
ispred vas kao izrađivač odeće.
03:56
But my work has always
been about more than fashion.
been about more than fashion.
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Ali moj rad je uvek
bio nešto više od mode.
bio nešto više od mode.
04:00
It has become my purpose
to rewrite the cultural narratives
to rewrite the cultural narratives
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Moja svrha je postala
prepravljanje kulturoloških narativa
prepravljanje kulturoloških narativa
04:02
so that people of color can be seen
in a new and nuanced light,
in a new and nuanced light,
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tako da obojeni ljudi mogu biti viđeni
pod novim i nijansiranim svetlom
pod novim i nijansiranim svetlom
04:06
and so that we,
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i da mi,
04:08
the proud children of sub-Saharan Africa,
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ponosna deca podsaharske Afrike,
možemo preći svet
04:10
can traverse the globe
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04:11
while carrying ourselves with pride.
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ponosni na sebe.
04:14
It was indeed true
that the stories of history
that the stories of history
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Zaista je istinito da priče iz istorije
04:17
were told by its old victors,
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pričaju njeni pobednici,
04:20
but I am of a new generation.
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ali ja sam predstavnik nove generacije.
04:23
My work speaks for those
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Moj rad govori za one
04:24
who will no longer let their futures
be dictated by a troubled past.
be dictated by a troubled past.
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koji neće više dozvoliti da njihovu
budućnost diktira problematična prošlost.
budućnost diktira problematična prošlost.
04:28
Today, we stand ready
to tell our own stories
to tell our own stories
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Danas, stojimo spremni
da pričamo naše sopstvene priče
da pričamo naše sopstvene priče
04:32
without compromise, without apologies.
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bez kompromisa, bez izvinjenja.
04:35
But the question still remains:
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Ali pitanje i dalje ostaje:
04:37
are you prepared
for what you are about to hear?
for what you are about to hear?
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da li ste spremni
za ono što ćete da čujete?
za ono što ćete da čujete?
04:42
I hope you are, because
we are coming regardless.
we are coming regardless.
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Nadam se da jeste, zato što
mi dolazimo bez obzira na to.
mi dolazimo bez obzira na to.
04:46
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Walé Oyéjidé - Designer, writer, musician, lawyerTED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling.
Why you should listen
As the founder of Ikiré Jones, Walé Oyéjidé, Esq. employs fashion design as a vehicle to celebrate the perspectives of marginalized populations.
In addition to his role as the brand's creative director, Walé Oyéjidé designs Ikiré Jones's textiles/accessories and serves as the company's writer. Oyéjidé is a TED Fellow, and his apparel design can be seen in the upcoming Marvel Studios film "Black Panther."
Oyéjidé's design work was part of the "Making Africa" contemporary design exhibit, which was at the Vitra Design Museum in Germany, the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain, the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, and the HIGH Museum of Art in Atlanta. He was also featured in the "Creative Africa" exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. His work exhibited at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art and the Fowler Museum, UCLA. He has been invited to lecture about his work in Brazil, Ecuador, France and Tanzania. His designs also appeared as part of the "Generation Africa" fashion show at Pitti Uomo 89 in Florence, Italy.
Oyéjidé's writings include freelance creative copywriting for Airbnb. He is also an attorney, public speaker, and a recording artist/producer that has collaborated with J-Dilla and MF Doom, among others. And for what it's worth, Esquire Magazine noted Oyéjidé as one of the best-dressed men in the United States.
Walé Oyéjidé | Speaker | TED.com