Amit Kalra: 3 creative ways to fix fashion's waste problem
アミット・カルラ: ファッション業界のゴミ問題への3つの解決法
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cost-effective way to be stylish.
おしゃれをする方法を探していました
at my local thrift store,
近所の古着屋でした
ゴミのようなものでも
to become my treasure.
眠る場所だったのです
for your average
vintage T-shirt to wear.
Tシャツではありません
at the intersection of design
デザイン性と
the most out of the things I was finding,
garments that I was finding,
作り替えました
my own clothes from scratch ever since,
自分で作っているので
is uniquely my own.
全部オリジナルです
racks of clothes at these thrift stores,
服の山をかき分けながら
that I don't buy?
どうなるんだろう?と
流行りでもないために
at these secondhand stores.
売れ残るような服です
on the wholesale side,
卸売の仕事をしているので
some of the products that we sell
of these thrift stores.
into my work life, as well.
仕事にもつながったのです
a very scary supply chain
サプライチェーンが見つかり
pretty troubling realities.
行き当たりました
I was sorting though
かき分けていた服は
かき分けていた服は
of the total amount of garments
ほんの一部に過ぎないと
of the total textile and garment waste
毎年生産される布地や衣服の
or recycled in some way,
リサイクルされたりせず
of textile and garment waste
廃棄物となって
埋め立てられるのです
does the problem justice.
よく分からないからです
of clothing and textile waste
毎年1300万トンもの
in just the United States alone.
廃棄物になっているということです
roughly 200 T-shirts per person
1人あたり200枚のTシャツが
in my home town of Toronto,
一番大きいスタジアム―
three times the size of that stadium.
一杯にできるほどの量です
are the more polite North Americans,
比較的礼儀正しい方だと思っているので
was seeing that the fashion industry
ファッション業界が
polluter in the world
世界第2位の
the oil and gas industry
かばうつもりはありませんが
to hear they were the number one polluter.
不思議はありません
that that's an industry
現状に甘んじることを
sticking to the status quo.
思われるからです
doesn't really change
大きく変わることがなく
on driving profitability
犠牲にしてでも
that the fashion industry was number two.
第2位なのには驚きました
the fashion industry stands for.
対極にあるからです
a lot of the things we do consume,
廃棄しているだけでなく
the clothes that we buy each year.
多くの資源を使います
of clothing per year
毎年の服の購入量に対して
of water to produce.
水が必要です
per household, per year.
バスタブ1,000杯です
that always has been
そしてこれからも
on the forefront of design,
to be comfortable, designed to be trendy
表現豊かな製品を
to be sustainable
意図していないのです
aptitude for change
変化を望む姿勢こそが
先鞭をつけることを
business practices.
all we have to do
やるべきことは
to be recyclable at the end of their life.
衣服をデザインすることです
to leave to the professionals.
thrift store aficionado
posit one perspective,
意見するとすれば
kind of like building with Lego.
レゴのように考えてはどうでしょう
but very easily manipulated.
自由に組み替えられます
is very rarely modular.
あまりモジュール式とは言えません
with its buttons, zippers and trim.
一般的なジャケットですが
recycle a jacket like this,
効率よくリサイクルするには
to easily remove these items
簡単に取り外しでき
by shredding it
gets made into new fabric
布地を作ることで
or new T-shirts, for example.
構いません
with all of these extra items,
飾りなどの部品が
are actually quite difficult to remove.
取り除くのが難しく
more time or more money
分解するのに
cost-effective to throw it away
捨ててしまった方が
if we design clothes in a modular way
服をデザインして
at the end of their lives.
これは変えられます
to have a hidden wireframe,
部品をつなぎ合わせるような
that holds all important items together.
組み込むこともできるでしょう
can have all of these extra items,
ボタン、飾りと言った部品を
attached to the fabric.
is remove its fish bone
easier than before.
is definitely one piece of the puzzle.
問題の一端ではありますが
that the fashion industry has
より真剣に
and start to design clothes
要らない服を
at the end of their lives.
we have in our closet
that have gems in our drawers
ある人も多いでしょうし
which is great.
of a garment by even only nine months
たった9か月延ばせるだけでも
that that garment has
その服の水の使用量を
are always going to change
something different than you were today
今着ている物とは違う物を
friendly you want to be.
that never go out of style.
流行遅れにならない服もあります
your socks, underwear, even your pajamas.
靴下、下着、パジャマなどです
right down to the bone,
throwing them in the garbage
ゴミに捨てることになります
that have holes in them
to compost these items
大きく軽減できます
is start to shift more of our resources
using more natural fibers,
天然繊維へと
are two critical priorities.
優先すべき事柄ですが
that we have to rethink
of the harsh chemical dye that we use
10~20%が
production hubs in developing nations.
水場に流れ込んでいます
that these harsh chemicals
こうして有害な化学染料が
at keeping a garment a specific color
衣服を色もちさせる上で
that keep that bright red dress
何年も赤いままであるのは
おかげなのです
to use something different?
使えるならどうでしょう?
あるようなものを使って
in our kitchen cabinets at home
あるようなものを使って
spices and herbs to dye our clothes?
服を染められたら?
that would allow for us to stain material,
多くありますが
色が変わってしまいます
than the clothes that were dyed harshly
染料で染めた服とは
would allow for us
染色することによって
and environmentally friendlier.
また環境により優しいものができます
個性がすべてです
personal appearance
to showcase their brand
自分のブランドやスタイルを
on our Instagram feeds
ファッション自慢の人たちが
more personalized, more unique,
色が変わる服以上に
あるでしょうか?
and with each wear
and wearing ripped jeans for years.
売れるようになって久しいのですから
of clothes that exist in our wardrobe
持ち主と共に変化していく服の
and the state of her kitchen,
母をがっかりさせてしまいましたが
before coming here today.
自分で染めたものです
are going to have on their Instagram feed.
友達は1人もいません
天然染料で染めたものです
in their kitchen sink at home.
言いたいわけではありません
on a commercial scale,
harsh chemical dyes for our clothes
有害な化学染料への依存を
is fiercely competitive.
非常に競争の激しいところです
a product at scale
時が経つにつれて
will become more unique over time
約束できれば
非常に有利になるでしょう
with customization for years.
カスタマイズに力を入れてきました
a bespoke suiting platform,
Indochinoや
a bespoke dress-making platform,
Tinker Tailorなどが現れ
possible from your couch.
カスタマイズできるようになりました
their online shoe customization platforms
オンラインでカスタマイズ注文を
受注生産に応じることは
businesses encounter.
直面する課題です
an environmentally friendly product
生み出せるならば
seismic industry shift.
つながるでしょう
what's best for our environment
なるのです
and there's no one-step solution.
解決する方法はありませんが
with their death in mind.
服をデザインし始めることはできます
is the perfect industry
私たちに必要な
to the sustainable future
変化を喜んで受け入れるのに
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Amit Kalra - Fashion enthusiastAmit Kalra wants to fix fashion's pollution problem.
Why you should listen
When Amit Kalra was 20, he decided he wanted to be more stylish than his budget would allow. He taught himself to design and make his own clothing, sifting through thrift stores for cheap materials. Kalra's side project of cutting and sewing recycled clothes for friends and small clothing brands led him to an idea that he hopes will turn the fashion industry on its head -- and save the planet while he’s at it.
Kalra holds a Bachelor of Commerce from Queen's University in Ontario, Canada. At PVH Canada, he manages the planning, operations and finances for their Dress Shirt division. Outside of work, he attends fashion school part-time.
Amit Kalra | Speaker | TED.com