TED@Tommy
Amit Kalra: 3 creative ways to fix fashion's waste problem
Amit Kalra: 解决时尚背后环境污染问题的三个创造性方案
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Readability: 4.5
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那些我们不买的衣服都经历了什么？你可能觉得过季的那些大衣，长裤，高领毛衣都会被重新使用，但是它们之中的绝大多数（在美国每年几乎有1300万吨）都以填埋的方式结尾。时尚一直以来都被冠有浪费的名号，而Amit Kalra想要解决这个问题。他向我们分享了几个能够使时尚产业更加环保，对环境更友好，同时还让企业提升竞争力的新奇想法。
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:13
A few years ago, I found myself
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就在几年前，我开始寻找
00:15
looking for the most
cost-effective way to be stylish.
cost-effective way to be stylish.
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让自己变得时髦的
最经济有效的方式。
最经济有效的方式。
00:18
So naturally, I wound up
at my local thrift store,
at my local thrift store,
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很自然的，我去了当地的二手店，
那个堆满了别人的垃圾，
00:21
a wonderland of other people's trash
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00:23
that was ripe to be plucked
to become my treasure.
to become my treasure.
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有待我去发现宝藏的王国。
要知道，我找的不是普通的
00:26
Now, I wasn't just looking
for your average
for your average
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二手复古T恤，
00:28
off-the-secondhand-rack
vintage T-shirt to wear.
vintage T-shirt to wear.
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00:31
For me, real style lives
at the intersection of design
at the intersection of design
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对我而言，真正的风格是
00:34
and individuality.
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设计和个性的交叉。
00:35
So to make sure that I was getting
the most out of the things I was finding,
the most out of the things I was finding,
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所以为了确保我能够
最大化地利用我找到的东西，
最大化地利用我找到的东西，
我买了一台缝纫机，
00:39
I bought a sewing machine
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那样我就可以剪裁那些我所找到的
九零年代风格的服装，
九零年代风格的服装，
00:40
so I could tailor the 90's-style
garments that I was finding,
garments that I was finding,
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使之更符合现代的审美观。
00:43
to fit a more contemporary aesthetic.
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从那时起，我就一直自己缝制衣服，
00:45
I've been tailoring and making
my own clothes from scratch ever since,
my own clothes from scratch ever since,
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所以我衣柜里的所有东西
都是独一无二属于我自己的。
都是独一无二属于我自己的。
00:48
so everything in my closet
is uniquely my own.
is uniquely my own.
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但是当我淘着这些无穷无尽的
摆在二手店架子上的衣服时，
摆在二手店架子上的衣服时，
00:51
But as I was sorting through the endless
racks of clothes at these thrift stores,
racks of clothes at these thrift stores,
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我开始问我自己：
00:54
I started to ask myself,
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那些我不买的衣服会有什么下场？
00:56
what happens to all the clothes
that I don't buy?
that I don't buy?
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00:58
The stuff that isn't really cool or trendy
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那些不酷也不潮的衣服
就那样在二手店的一角慢慢烂掉。
01:00
but kind of just sits there and rots away
at these secondhand stores.
at these secondhand stores.
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我在时尚产业的批发领域工作，
01:03
I work in the fashion industry
on the wholesale side,
on the wholesale side,
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我开始看到一些我们卖过的产品
01:06
and I started to see
some of the products that we sell
some of the products that we sell
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最后也出现在了二手店衣架上。
01:08
end up on the racks
of these thrift stores.
of these thrift stores.
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所以这个问题也开始影响我的工作。
01:11
So the question started to work its way
into my work life, as well.
into my work life, as well.
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我做了一些调查，
01:14
I did some research
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并且很快发现了一个
非常恐怖的产业链，
非常恐怖的产业链，
01:15
and I pretty quickly found
a very scary supply chain
a very scary supply chain
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看到了一些非常残酷的现实。
01:18
that led me to some
pretty troubling realities.
pretty troubling realities.
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我发现那些我在二手店
01:20
It turned out that the clothes
I was sorting though
I was sorting though
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淘的衣服
01:22
at these thrift stores
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仅仅代表了我们每年扔掉的
01:24
represented only a small fraction
of the total amount of garments
of the total amount of garments
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全部衣物的冰山一角。
01:27
that we dispose of each year.
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在美国，每年产生的
所有纺织和服装垃圾
所有纺织和服装垃圾
01:28
In the US, only 15 percent
of the total textile and garment waste
of the total textile and garment waste
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只有15%
01:32
that's generated each year
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以捐赠或回收之类的方式结尾。
01:34
ends up being donated
or recycled in some way,
or recycled in some way,
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这就意味着每年那剩下的
85%的纺织和服饰垃圾
85%的纺织和服饰垃圾
01:37
which means that the other 85 percent
of textile and garment waste
of textile and garment waste
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01:40
end up in landfills every year.
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最终都会被填埋。
我想要更直观地看一下这个问题。
01:42
Now, I want to put this into perspective,
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因为我觉得
01:44
because I don't quite think
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大家对85%这个数字可能没概念。
01:46
that the 85 percent
does the problem justice.
does the problem justice.
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换句话说，这意味着几乎
1300万吨的衣服和纺织垃圾
1300万吨的衣服和纺织垃圾
01:48
This means that almost 13 million tons
of clothing and textile waste
of clothing and textile waste
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每年都以填埋的方式被处理，
这还仅仅只是美国，
这还仅仅只是美国，
01:52
end up in landfills every year
in just the United States alone.
in just the United States alone.
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平均下来这相当于每个人都扔了
01:55
This averages out to be
roughly 200 T-shirts per person
roughly 200 T-shirts per person
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大约200件T恤。
01:59
ending up in the garbage.
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在加拿大，我们扔掉的衣服
02:01
In Canada, we throw away enough clothing
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足够填满我的家乡
多伦多那边最大的
多伦多那边最大的
02:03
to fill the largest stadium
in my home town of Toronto,
in my home town of Toronto,
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可以容纳六万人的露天体育场，
02:06
one that seats 60,000 people,
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并且足足可以填满
三个这样的体育场。
三个这样的体育场。
02:08
with a mountain of clothes
three times the size of that stadium.
three times the size of that stadium.
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当然即便这样，
02:12
Now, even with this,
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我依然认为加拿大人
是更加有礼貌的北美人，
是更加有礼貌的北美人，
02:13
I still think that Canadians
are the more polite North Americans,
are the more polite North Americans,
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所以不要拿这件事来抨击我们。
02:16
so don't hold it against us.
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（笑声）
02:18
(Laughter)
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更令人难以置信的是，
02:20
What was even more surprising
was seeing that the fashion industry
was seeing that the fashion industry
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时装产业是世界第二大污染业，
02:23
is the second-largest
polluter in the world
polluter in the world
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仅次于石油和燃气产业。
02:25
behind the oil and gas industry.
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这是一个重要的对比。
02:26
This is an important comparison to make.
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我不想为石油和燃气产业辩护，
02:28
I don't want to defend
the oil and gas industry
the oil and gas industry
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但是我不惊讶于
它们是世界第一污染业，
它们是世界第一污染业，
02:31
but I'd be lying if I said I was surprised
to hear they were the number one polluter.
to hear they were the number one polluter.
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因为我个人觉得（无论公平与否）
石油和燃气产业都是
石油和燃气产业都是
02:35
I just assumed, fairly or not,
that that's an industry
that that's an industry
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不怎么关心我们的社会现状的，
02:37
that doesn't really mind
sticking to the status quo.
sticking to the status quo.
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并且开采技术几乎没有多大的改变，
02:40
One where the technology
doesn't really change
doesn't really change
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这个行业更关注如何获得利润，
02:42
and the focus is more so
on driving profitability
on driving profitability
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哪怕那是以可持续发展为代价。
02:44
at the expense of a sustainable future.
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但是当我得知时尚产业竟是
第二大污染业的时候，我真的很惊讶，
第二大污染业的时候，我真的很惊讶，
02:46
But I was really surprised to see
that the fashion industry was number two.
that the fashion industry was number two.
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因为维持现状
02:50
Because maintaining that status quo
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跟时尚产业是背道而驰的。
02:51
is the opposite of what
the fashion industry stands for.
the fashion industry stands for.
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而现实可悲的的地方在于，
02:54
The unfortunate reality is,
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我们不仅浪费掉了
很多可以使用的东西，
很多可以使用的东西，
02:56
not only do we waste
a lot of the things we do consume,
a lot of the things we do consume,
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而且每年都会使用很多资源
来制造我们购买的衣服。
来制造我们购买的衣服。
02:58
but we also use a lot to produce
the clothes that we buy each year.
the clothes that we buy each year.
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平均而言，每年每个家庭购买的衣服
03:01
On average, a household's purchase
of clothing per year
of clothing per year
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需要足足可装满
1000个浴缸的水来制造。
1000个浴缸的水来制造。
03:04
requires 1,000 bathtubs
of water to produce.
of water to produce.
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1000个浴缸的水，一家人，每年。
03:07
A thousand bathtubs of water
per household, per year.
per household, per year.
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这可不是个小数目。
03:11
That's a lot of water.
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03:12
It seems that the industry
that always has been
that always has been
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看起来总是站在
或将永远站在
时尚设计最前沿的服装产业
时尚设计最前沿的服装产业
03:15
and probably always will be
on the forefront of design,
on the forefront of design,
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制造出了穿着舒适，紧跟潮流的产品，
03:17
creates products that are designed
to be comfortable, designed to be trendy
to be comfortable, designed to be trendy
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并且设计得极具表现力，
03:21
and designed to be expressive
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03:23
but aren't really designed
to be sustainable
to be sustainable
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但却不是可持续的，
或可重复使用的设计。
03:25
or recyclable for that matter.
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但我认为这种现状会改变，
03:26
But I think that can change.
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03:28
I think the fashion industry's
aptitude for change
aptitude for change
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我认为时尚产业改变的本性
正是它应该成为
03:30
is the exact thing that should make it
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追求可持续发展的企业先驱的原因。
03:32
patient zero for sustainable
business practices.
business practices.
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首先我们需要做的就是
03:35
And I think to get started,
all we have to do
all we have to do
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开始设计能够
在寿命结束时可回收的服装。
在寿命结束时可回收的服装。
03:37
is start to design clothes
to be recyclable at the end of their life.
to be recyclable at the end of their life.
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设计可回收的衣服
03:40
Now, designing recyclable clothing
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03:42
is definitely something
to leave to the professionals.
to leave to the professionals.
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毫无疑问应该留给专业人士去做，
但是作为一位二十四岁的
有着一台缝纫机的
有着一台缝纫机的
03:45
But as a 24-year-old
thrift store aficionado
thrift store aficionado
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03:47
armed with a sewing machine,
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二手店狂热爱好者，
03:49
if I were to very humbly
posit one perspective,
posit one perspective,
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如果我可以非常谦虚地
提出一个建议，
提出一个建议，
那么就是用打造乐高的方式
来设计服装。
来设计服装。
03:51
it would be to approach clothing design
kind of like building with Lego.
kind of like building with Lego.
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03:55
When we put together a brick of Lego,
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当我们把乐高积木拼在一起，
这些结构会非常结实，
但是也非常容易被操控。
但是也非常容易被操控。
03:57
it's very strong
but very easily manipulated.
but very easily manipulated.
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在乐高的世界里，
这些都是可组装的、模块化的。
这些都是可组装的、模块化的。
03:59
It's modular in its nature.
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如今的服装设计却很少是模块化的。
04:01
Clothing design as it stands today
is very rarely modular.
is very rarely modular.
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04:04
Take this motorcycle jacket as an example.
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就拿这件机车夹克来说，
04:06
It's a pretty standard jacket
with its buttons, zippers and trim.
with its buttons, zippers and trim.
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这是一件有着扣子、拉链、
小配件的非常标准化的夹克，
小配件的非常标准化的夹克，
但是如果想要
有效地重复利用这件夹克，
有效地重复利用这件夹克，
04:10
But in order for us to efficiently
recycle a jacket like this,
recycle a jacket like this,
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我们必须要能够
很轻易地去除这些小物件，
很轻易地去除这些小物件，
04:13
we need to be able
to easily remove these items
to easily remove these items
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并且能够迅速地
得到这件衣服的面料部分。
得到这件衣服的面料部分。
04:15
and quickly get down to just the fabric.
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一旦我们有了纯面料，
04:17
Once we have just the fabric,
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我们就可以用碎片化的方式将其拆分，
04:18
we're able to break it down
by shredding it
by shredding it
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然后在拼接缝合层面重新组装，
04:21
and getting back to thread level,
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用出新的拼接方式
把它们变成新的面料，
把它们变成新的面料，
04:22
make new thread that then
gets made into new fabric
gets made into new fabric
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最后变为新的衣服，
04:25
and ultimately new clothing,
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例如一件新夹克或是一件新T恤。
04:26
whether it be a new jacket
or new T-shirts, for example.
or new T-shirts, for example.
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然而所有这些多余的小物件
都会使整个过程变得复杂，
都会使整个过程变得复杂，
04:29
But the complexity lies
with all of these extra items,
with all of these extra items,
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像这些纽扣、拉链、小配饰。
04:31
the buttons, the zippers and the trim.
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因为在现实操作过程中，
这些小东西很难去除，
这些小东西很难去除，
04:33
Because in reality, these items
are actually quite difficult to remove.
are actually quite difficult to remove.
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所以在很多情况下，
这需要更多时间和更多金钱
这需要更多时间和更多金钱
04:37
So in many cases it requires
more time or more money
more time or more money
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去拆解一件像这样的夹克。
04:39
to disassemble a jacket like this.
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在一些情况下，扔掉它
04:41
In some cases, it's just more
cost-effective to throw it away
cost-effective to throw it away
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比回收它更省钱。
04:44
rather than recycle it.
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但我认为如果我们能对服装
进行模块化设计，这种情况将可以改变。
进行模块化设计，这种情况将可以改变。
04:46
But I think this can change
if we design clothes in a modular way
if we design clothes in a modular way
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04:49
to be easily disassembled
at the end of their lives.
at the end of their lives.
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模块化会使衣服
在寿命尽头更易拆解，
在寿命尽头更易拆解，
我们可以重新设计这件夹克，
让它有一个隐蔽的线框，
让它有一个隐蔽的线框，
04:52
We could redesign this jacket
to have a hidden wireframe,
to have a hidden wireframe,
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就像一条鱼的骨架一样，
它带着所有重要的小物件。
它带着所有重要的小物件。
04:55
kind of like the skeleton of a fish,
that holds all important items together.
that holds all important items together.
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04:59
This invisible fish-bone structure
can have all of these extra items,
can have all of these extra items,
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这种隐秘的鱼骨形状的结构
可以装戴着所有额外的配饰、
可以装戴着所有额外的配饰、
05:03
the zippers and the buttons and the trim,
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拉链、扣子和小物件
被缝进去然后与面料连接在一起。
05:05
sewn into it and then
attached to the fabric.
attached to the fabric.
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所以在这件夹克寿终正寝时，
05:07
So at the end of the jacket's life,
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你所需要做的只是去除这条“鱼骨”，
05:09
all you have to do
is remove its fish bone
is remove its fish bone
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然后面料就出来了——
05:11
and the fabric comes with it
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比之前要更快，更便捷。
05:12
a lot quicker and a lot
easier than before.
easier than before.
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不过，回收衣物
只是这个问题的一个方面，
只是这个问题的一个方面，
05:14
Now, recycling clothing
is definitely one piece of the puzzle.
is definitely one piece of the puzzle.
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如果我们想要
05:17
But if we want to take
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真正去修复这些时尚产业
带来的严重的
带来的严重的
05:18
fixing the environmental impact
that the fashion industry has
that the fashion industry has
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环境影响，
05:21
more seriously,
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那么我们就需要
更进一步并开始设计
更进一步并开始设计
05:23
then we need to take this to the next step
and start to design clothes
and start to design clothes
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在寿命终结时可降解的衣物。
05:26
to also be compostable
at the end of their lives.
at the end of their lives.
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我们衣橱里的绝大多数衣服
05:28
For most of the types of clothes
we have in our closet
we have in our closet
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平均寿命一般都在三年左右。
05:31
the average lifespan is about three years.
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我确定有些人拥有比这
05:33
Now, I'm sure there's many of us
that have gems in our drawers
that have gems in our drawers
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更有年头的宝石，这很好。
05:36
that are much older than that,
which is great.
which is great.
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哪怕只是将衣服的寿命延长九个月，
05:38
Because being able to extend the life
of a garment by even only nine months
of a garment by even only nine months
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所带来的垃圾和水污染
05:42
reduces the waste and water impact
that that garment has
that that garment has
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就会减少20%到30%。
05:44
by 20 to 30 percent.
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05:46
But fashion is fashion.
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但是潮流就是潮流，
这意味着风格
永远都在不断变化之中。
永远都在不断变化之中。
05:48
Which means that styles
are always going to change
are always going to change
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几年后，你很可能会穿跟今天
05:50
and you're probably going to be wearing
something different than you were today
something different than you were today
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不一样的衣服，
05:54
eight seasons from now,
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不管你多么想要保护环境。
05:55
no matter how environmentally
friendly you want to be.
friendly you want to be.
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但对我们来说幸运的是，
有一些东西永不过时，
有一些东西永不过时，
05:58
But lucky for us, there are some items
that never go out of style.
that never go out of style.
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我说的就是我们的基本衣物——
大家的袜子、内衣，甚至睡衣，
大家的袜子、内衣，甚至睡衣，
06:01
I'm talking about your basics --
your socks, underwear, even your pajamas.
your socks, underwear, even your pajamas.
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我们大家都会将这些衣服穿到破为止，
06:04
We're all guilty of wearing these items
right down to the bone,
right down to the bone,
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并最后直接把它们扔进垃圾桶。
06:07
and in many cases
throwing them in the garbage
throwing them in the garbage
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因为你可不能
06:10
because it's really difficult
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把自己的破旧袜子
06:11
to donate your old ratty socks
that have holes in them
that have holes in them
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捐到当地的二手店。
06:14
to your local thrift store.
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但是如果我们可以
把这些东西作为肥料，
把这些东西作为肥料，
06:15
But what if we were able
to compost these items
to compost these items
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而不是直接扔到垃圾堆里呢？
06:17
rather than throw them in the trash bin?
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这对环境保护的意义是很重大的。
06:19
The environmental savings could be huge,
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我们所要做的就是转移资源，
06:21
and all we would have to do
is start to shift more of our resources
is start to shift more of our resources
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开始用更多的自然纤维
生产更多这样的物品，
生产更多这样的物品，
06:24
to start to produce more of these items
using more natural fibers,
using more natural fibers,
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像是100%有机纯棉。
06:27
like 100 percent organic cotton.
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06:30
Now, recycling and composting
are two critical priorities.
are two critical priorities.
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回收和降解是两个很重要的方面。
但是我们还需要重新思考的是
06:33
But one other thing
that we have to rethink
that we have to rethink
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我们漂染服装的方式。
06:35
is the way that we dye our clothes.
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如今，我们使用到的
10%到20%的有害化学染料
10%到20%的有害化学染料
06:37
Currently, 10 to 20 percent
of the harsh chemical dye that we use
of the harsh chemical dye that we use
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最终都流入临近的
发展中国家生产中心的水体之中。
发展中国家生产中心的水体之中。
06:41
end up in water bodies that neighbor
production hubs in developing nations.
production hubs in developing nations.
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让问题更加复杂的是，
这些有害化学品
这些有害化学品
06:45
The tricky thing is
that these harsh chemicals
that these harsh chemicals
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在让一件衣物保持特定色彩并维持
06:47
are really effective
at keeping a garment a specific color
at keeping a garment a specific color
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很长时间方面很有效，
06:50
for a long period of time.
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就是这些有害化学染料
能够让一件亮红色裙子
能够让一件亮红色裙子
06:52
It's these harsh chemicals
that keep that bright red dress
that keep that bright red dress
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在很多年后依然鲜艳动人。
06:55
bright red for so many years.
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但是如果我们用
其他不同的东西来染色呢？
其他不同的东西来染色呢？
06:56
But what if we were able
to use something different?
to use something different?
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如果我们可以用一些
06:59
What if we were able to use something
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在我们厨房餐柜里都能找到的东西
07:01
that we all have
in our kitchen cabinets at home
in our kitchen cabinets at home
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来漂染我们的衣服呢？
07:03
to dye our clothes?
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如果我们能用一些香料和香草类植物
来为我们的衣服染色呢？
来为我们的衣服染色呢？
07:04
What if we were able to use
spices and herbs to dye our clothes?
spices and herbs to dye our clothes?
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生活中有不计其数的食物
可以帮我们为衣物着色，
可以帮我们为衣物着色，
07:07
There's countless food options
that would allow for us to stain material,
that would allow for us to stain material,
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但是这些着色剂会使衣服颜色
随着时间逐渐褪去。
随着时间逐渐褪去。
07:11
but these stains change color over time.
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07:14
This would be pretty different
than the clothes that were dyed harshly
than the clothes that were dyed harshly
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这会与那些我们经常用
有害化学染料所染出来的
有害化学染料所染出来的
衣物截然不同。
07:17
with chemicals that we're used to.
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但是用这种自然的方式漂染服装
07:19
But dyeing clothes naturally this way
would allow for us
would allow for us
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可以保证我们的衣服更独特，
对环境更友好。
对环境更友好。
07:21
to make sure they're more unique
and environmentally friendlier.
and environmentally friendlier.
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让我们想一想我刚刚所说的。
07:24
Let's think about it.
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在今天，时尚就是个性，
07:26
Fashion today is all about individuality.
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它关乎我们每个人的
外表与独特气质。
外表与独特气质。
07:28
It's about managing your own
personal appearance
personal appearance
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如果你独一无二，你就很酷。
07:30
to be just unique enough to be cool.
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现如今，每个人都有展示他们的品牌、
07:32
These days, everybody has the ability
to showcase their brand
to showcase their brand
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个人不同风格的能力，
07:35
their personal style,
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通过社交媒体在世界各地
来传达这些信息。
来传达这些信息。
07:36
across the world, through social media.
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我们口袋中的“广告牌”，
07:38
The pocket-sized billboards
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我们在 Instagram 上看到的，
07:40
that we flick through
on our Instagram feeds
on our Instagram feeds
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全部都是模特和品味艺术家们，
07:42
are chock-full of models and taste-makers
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他们通过个人微品牌
07:44
that are showcasing their individuality
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展示自己的个性。
07:46
through their personal microbrands.
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但是有什么会
是比随着时间变色的衣服
是比随着时间变色的衣服
07:49
But what could be
more personalized, more unique,
more personalized, more unique,
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07:51
than clothes that change color over time?
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更凸显个人风格，更别致的呢？
07:53
Clothes that with each wash
and with each wear
and with each wear
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每一次的洗和穿都会让
这件衣服变得更加独特。
07:55
become more and more one of a kind.
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破洞牛仔裤已经流行很长时间了，
07:57
People have been buying
and wearing ripped jeans for years.
and wearing ripped jeans for years.
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这可以是另一个
存在于我们衣柜里的例子——
存在于我们衣柜里的例子——
08:00
So this would just be another example
of clothes that exist in our wardrobe
of clothes that exist in our wardrobe
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它们随着我们生命而逐渐演化。
08:04
that evolve with us over our lives.
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比如说，这件T恤——
08:06
This shirt, for example, is one that,
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虽然我妈妈和她的厨房
可能会有所不满，
可能会有所不满，
08:08
much to the dismay of my mother
and the state of her kitchen,
and the state of her kitchen,
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是我在今天来这里之前
用姜黄根粉末在家里染的。
用姜黄根粉末在家里染的。
08:10
I dyed at home, using turmeric,
before coming here today.
before coming here today.
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这是一件
08:14
This shirt is something
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我的好友不可能
在 Instagram 上看到的T恤，
在 Instagram 上看到的T恤，
08:15
that none of my friends
are going to have on their Instagram feed.
are going to have on their Instagram feed.
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这是独一无二的。
08:18
So it's unique,
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08:20
but more importantly, it's naturally dyed.
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但更重要的是，
这是用自然染料着色的。
这是用自然染料着色的。
我不是建议每个人都要
08:22
Now, I'm not suggesting
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在厨房的水槽里染自己的衣服，
08:23
that everybody dye their clothes
in their kitchen sink at home.
in their kitchen sink at home.
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但是如果我们可以来运用这个方法，
08:26
But if we were able to apply this
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或是在服装商业生产过程中
运用相似的过程，
运用相似的过程，
08:28
or a similar process
on a commercial scale,
on a commercial scale,
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那么我们对于化学染料的依赖
08:31
then our need to rely on these
harsh chemical dyes for our clothes
harsh chemical dyes for our clothes
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就会大大减少。
08:34
could be easily reduced.
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2.4万亿美元的服装市场
竞争非常激烈，
竞争非常激烈，
08:35
The 2.4-trillion-dollar fashion industry
is fiercely competitive.
is fiercely competitive.
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如果一个企业可以
大量提供这种产品，
大量提供这种产品，
08:39
So the business that can provide
a product at scale
a product at scale
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并且能对顾客承诺
08:42
while also promising its customers
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每件衣物会因为时间的流逝
而变得更加与众不同，
而变得更加与众不同，
08:43
that each and every garment
will become more unique over time
will become more unique over time
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这将会是一个极大的竞争优势。
08:47
will have a serious competitive advantage.
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很多品牌多年来
一直在做个性化的产品，
一直在做个性化的产品，
08:49
Brands have been playing
with customization for years.
with customization for years.
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电子商务服务的兴起，
08:52
The rise of e-commerce services,
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像是 Indochino，
一家做私人西服定制的平台，
一家做私人西服定制的平台，
08:53
like Indochino,
a bespoke suiting platform,
a bespoke suiting platform,
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08:56
and Tinker Tailor,
a bespoke dress-making platform,
a bespoke dress-making platform,
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还有 Tinker Tailor，
一个做私人裙装定制的平台，
一个做私人裙装定制的平台，
使你在自家的沙发上
就能实现个性化。
就能实现个性化。
09:00
have made customization
possible from your couch.
possible from your couch.
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耐克和阿迪达斯提供
在线私人定制鞋服务
在线私人定制鞋服务
09:02
Nike and Adidas have been mastering
their online shoe customization platforms
their online shoe customization platforms
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已经很多年了。
09:07
for years.
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大规模地提供个性化产品，
09:08
Providing individuality at scale
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是大部分面向顾客的
公司面临的挑战。
公司面临的挑战。
09:10
is a challenge that most consumer-facing
businesses encounter.
businesses encounter.
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所以如果能够解决这个问题，
09:14
So being able to tackle this
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同时提供一种对环境友好的产品，
09:15
while also providing
an environmentally friendly product
an environmentally friendly product
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将可能导致一个剧烈的行业变革。
09:18
could lead to a pretty
seismic industry shift.
seismic industry shift.
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到那时候，
09:20
And at that point,
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这就不仅仅是关乎
做对我们环境最友好的事，
做对我们环境最友好的事，
09:22
it's not just about doing
what's best for our environment
what's best for our environment
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也是做对我们行业发展最有利的事。
09:24
but also what's best for the bottom line.
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这并不是万灵药，
也没有一蹴而就的解决方案，
也没有一蹴而就的解决方案，
09:26
There's no fix-all,
and there's no one-step solution.
and there's no one-step solution.
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但是我们可以
09:29
But we can get started
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在设计衣服时
就考虑到它们如何终结。
就考虑到它们如何终结。
09:31
by designing clothes
with their death in mind.
with their death in mind.
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时装产业是一个完美的能够
09:33
The fashion industry
is the perfect industry
is the perfect industry
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开始这个实验并拥抱变化、
09:36
to experiment with and embrace change
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帮助我们实现
那个可持续未来的行业，
那个可持续未来的行业，
09:38
that can one day get us
to the sustainable future
to the sustainable future
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那正是我们迫切需要的。
09:40
we so desperately need.
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谢谢大家！
09:41
Thank you.
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09:43
(Applause)
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（掌声）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Amit Kalra - Fashion enthusiastAmit Kalra wants to fix fashion's pollution problem.
Why you should listen
When Amit Kalra was 20, he decided he wanted to be more stylish than his budget would allow. He taught himself to design and make his own clothing, sifting through thrift stores for cheap materials. Kalra's side project of cutting and sewing recycled clothes for friends and small clothing brands led him to an idea that he hopes will turn the fashion industry on its head -- and save the planet while he’s at it.
Kalra holds a Bachelor of Commerce from Queen's University in Ontario, Canada. At PVH Canada, he manages the planning, operations and finances for their Dress Shirt division. Outside of work, he attends fashion school part-time.
Amit Kalra | Speaker | TED.com