TED2016
Angélica Dass: The beauty of human skin in every color
安杰莉卡.达斯: 各样肤色的美
Filmed:
Readability: 3.9
2,472,894 views
安杰利卡.达斯的摄影作品挑战我们对肤色和种族的认知。在这个私人的演讲里，听听她的摄影项目，Humanæ，的灵感由来，和她对记录人类正真肤色而不是不恰当的与种族相关的白，红，黑，黄的执着。
Angélica Dass - Artist and photographer
By cataloging every conceivable human skin tone, Angélica Dass illustrates that skin color and race are more complex than they might appear at first glance. Full bio
By cataloging every conceivable human skin tone, Angélica Dass illustrates that skin color and race are more complex than they might appear at first glance. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
It has been 128 years
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从最后一个废除奴隶制的国家算起
00:16
since the last country
in the world abolished slavery
in the world abolished slavery
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已经过去了128年
00:21
and 53 years
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距离马丁路德金发表
00:23
since Martin Luther King pronounced
his "I Have A Dream" speech.
his "I Have A Dream" speech.
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“我有一个梦想”已经过去53年
00:29
But we still live in a world
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但是，我们至今仍然生活在
00:32
where the color of our skin
not only gives a first impression,
not only gives a first impression,
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这样一个世界里——
一个“以肤色取人”的世界
00:37
but a lasting one that remains.
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00:43
I was born in a family full of colors.
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我出生于一个有多色人种的家庭
00:47
My father is the son of a maid
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我的父亲是女仆的儿子
00:50
from whom he inherited
an intense dark chocolate tone.
an intense dark chocolate tone.
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他从他母亲那里继承了黝黑的巧克力色皮肤
00:56
He was adopted by those
who I know as my grandparents.
who I know as my grandparents.
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父亲被我的祖父母收养
01:01
The matriarch, my grandma,
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我的祖母，是一位女酋长
01:03
has a porcelain skin and cotton-like hair.
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她有着陶瓷般的皮肤和棉密的头发
01:07
My grandpa was somewhere between
a vanilla and strawberry yogurt tone,
a vanilla and strawberry yogurt tone,
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我祖父的肤色则是介于香草酸奶和
草莓酸奶的颜色之间的
草莓酸奶的颜色之间的
01:13
like my uncle and my cousin.
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我的伯伯和堂兄也是这样的
01:16
My mother is a cinnamon-skin
daughter of a native Brazilian,
daughter of a native Brazilian,
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我的妈妈的母亲是一个巴西人，
她的皮肤是肉桂色
她的皮肤是肉桂色
01:23
with a pinch of hazel and honey,
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加上一撮榛子和蜂蜜
01:26
and a man [who is]
a mix of coffee with milk,
a mix of coffee with milk,
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她父亲的肤色是牛奶与咖啡的混合，
01:29
but with a lot of coffee.
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但是咖啡的比例特别重
01:32
She has two sisters.
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她有两个姐妹
01:34
One in a toasted-peanut skin
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一个拥有像烤花生一样颜色的皮肤
01:37
and the other,
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而另一个
01:39
also adopted,
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也是被收养的
01:40
more on the beige side,
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有更偏向米黄色的皮肤
01:42
like a pancake.
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像煎饼一样
01:43
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
01:45
Growing up in this family,
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成长在这样的家庭
01:48
color was never important for me.
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肤色对我来说从来不重要
01:51
Outside home, however,
things were different soon.
things were different soon.
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但是，一出家门， 情况马上就变了
01:57
Color had many other meanings.
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肤色意味着很多其他意思
02:02
I remember my first
drawing lessons in school
drawing lessons in school
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我记得我在学校里的第一节绘画课
02:05
as a bunch of contradictory feelings.
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内心充满矛盾的感觉
02:08
It was exciting and creative
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那节课很愉快有趣
02:11
but I never understood
the unique flesh-colored pencil.
the unique flesh-colored pencil.
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可我无法理解那支奇怪的肉色铅笔
02:17
I was made of flesh but I wasn't pink.
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我是肉做的，可我的皮肤并不是粉白色。
02:20
My skin was brown,
and people said I was black.
and people said I was black.
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我的皮肤是棕色的，可人们说我是个黑人。
02:24
I was seven years old
with a mess of colors in my head.
with a mess of colors in my head.
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七岁的我被这些颜色弄得晕头转向。
02:29
Later,
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后来
02:31
when I took my cousin to school,
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当我带我表妹去上学
02:34
I was usually taken for the nanny.
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我常被认作是她的保姆
02:37
By helping in the kitchen
at a friend's party,
at a friend's party,
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当我在朋友的聚会上帮厨时
02:41
people thought I was the maid.
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人们以为我是个女仆
02:43
I was even treated like a prostitute
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我甚至被当作妓女
02:46
just because I was walking alone
on the beach with European friends.
on the beach with European friends.
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只因为我和来自欧洲的朋友们在沙滩上散步
02:51
And many times,
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很多次
02:53
visiting my grandma or friends
in upper class buildings,
in upper class buildings,
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当我去拜访住在高档公寓的祖母和朋友们时
02:57
I was invited not to use
the main elevator.
the main elevator.
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我被建议不要使用主电梯
03:02
Because in the end,
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因为终究
03:05
with this color and this hair,
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有着这样肤色和头发的我
03:07
I cannot belong to some places.
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是不属于这样的地方的。
03:12
In some way,
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某种程度上
03:13
I get to used to it and accept part of it.
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我已经有些习惯并接受了
03:17
However, something inside of me
keeps revolving and struggling.
keeps revolving and struggling.
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但是，我内心的某个东西仍然在翻腾着
03:23
Years later I married a Spaniard.
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几年后，我跟一个西班牙人结了婚
03:27
But not any Spaniard.
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但不是一个普通的西班牙人
03:29
I chose one with the skin color
of a lobster when sunburnt.
of a lobster when sunburnt.
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我选择了一个有着像晒伤的龙虾一样肤色的人
03:33
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
03:35
Since then, a new question
started to chase me.
started to chase me.
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从那以后，一个新的问题开始盘亘在我脑海
03:39
What will be the color of your children?
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“你的孩子将会是什么肤色？”
03:43
As you can understand,
this is my last concern.
this is my last concern.
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你知道，这是我最不担心的问题
03:46
But thinking about it,
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但是这么想着，
03:49
with my previous background,
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结合我之前的背景，
03:50
my story led me to make
my personal exercise as a photographer.
my personal exercise as a photographer.
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我的经历让作为摄影师的我选择历练自己。
03:57
And that is how Humanae was born.
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这就是Humanae的由来。
04:00
Humanae is a pursuit
to highlight our true colors,
to highlight our true colors,
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Humanae追求的是对我们真正颜色的展现，
04:05
rather than the untrue
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而不是虚假的
04:07
white, red, black or yellow
associated with race.
associated with race.
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与种族有关的白色、红色、黑色、黄色。
04:12
It's a kind of game to question our codes.
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它是一个挑战我们标准的游戏
04:17
It's a work in progress
from a personal story to a global history.
from a personal story to a global history.
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它是一个正在进行的，从个人故事到全球历史的项目
04:22
I portray the subjects
in a white background.
in a white background.
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我照的每一个肖像都是白色背景。
04:27
Then I choose an 11-pixel
square from the nose,
square from the nose,
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接着，我在人物的鼻子上选择11平方像素
04:32
paint the background,
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用来填充背景
04:35
and look for the corresponding color
in the industrial palette, Pantone.
in the industrial palette, Pantone.
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并在潘通色卡上找到对应的颜色。
04:40
I started with my family and friends,
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我从我的家人和朋友开始，
04:43
then more and more people
joined the adventure,
joined the adventure,
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接着越来越多的人加入了这场探险
04:47
thanks to public calls
coming through the social media.
coming through the social media.
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感谢社交网络上的宣传，
04:52
I thought that the main space
to show my work was the Internet
to show my work was the Internet
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我认为展示我作品的空间主要是网络
04:57
because I want an open concept
that invites everybody
that invites everybody
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因为我想要的是一种开放的理念
一种让每个人同时在电脑和脑海里按下分享键的理念
05:01
to push the share button
in both the computer and their brain.
in both the computer and their brain.
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05:08
The snowball started to roll.
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很快，雪球效应开始显现
05:11
The project had a great welcome --
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这个项目受到了热烈的欢迎
05:15
invitations, exhibitions,
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邀请，展览
05:19
physical formats,
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实体版本
05:21
galleries and museums ...
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画廊，博物馆
05:23
just happened.
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就这样发生了
05:25
And among them, my favorite:
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在它们之中，我最喜欢的：
05:29
when Humanae occupies public spaces
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当Humanae占据公共空间
05:33
and appears in the street,
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出现在街头上时，
05:36
it fosters a popular debate
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它引起了一场广泛的讨论
05:39
and creates a feeling of community.
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营造了一种社区氛围
05:46
I have portrayed more than 3,000 people
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我拍摄了超过3000人的头像
05:50
in 13 different countries,
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他们来自13个不同的国家
05:53
19 different cities around the world.
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世界上19个不同的城市
05:56
Just to mention some of them --
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我所拍下的人里，
05:59
from someone included in the Forbes list,
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有福布斯排行榜上的富豪，
06:01
to refugees who crossed
the Mediterranean by boat.
the Mediterranean by boat.
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也有乘船穿过地中海的难民。
06:05
In Paris, from the UNESCO
Headquarters to a shelter.
Headquarters to a shelter.
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有法国联合国教科文组织总部，也有当地一个避难所
06:09
And students both in Switzerland
and favelas in Rio de Janeiro.
and favelas in Rio de Janeiro.
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有来自瑞士的学生，也有巴西贫民窟的学生。
06:15
All kinds of beliefs,
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各种信仰
06:17
gender identities
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性别身份
06:18
or physical impairments,
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或者身体缺陷
06:21
a newborn or terminally ill.
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新生儿或临终病人
06:24
We all together build Humanae.
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我们所有人一起建立了Humanae
06:29
Those portraits make us rethink
how we see each other.
how we see each other.
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这些头像让我们反省我们是怎样看待彼此的
06:34
When modern science
is questioning the race concept,
is questioning the race concept,
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当现代科学在质疑种族这一概念时
06:38
what does it mean for us
to be black, white, yellow, red?
to be black, white, yellow, red?
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黑种人、白种人、黄种人、红种人到底意味着什么？
06:44
Is it the eye, the nose,
the mouth, the hair?
the mouth, the hair?
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是眼睛、鼻子、嘴巴、头发吗？
06:49
Or does it have to do with our origin,
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还是与我们的出身，
06:53
nationality
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民族，
06:54
or bank account?
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或者银行账户有关？
06:58
This personal exercise
turned out to be a discovery.
turned out to be a discovery.
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这样的个人历练最后变成一次发现
07:03
Suddenly I realized that Humanae
was useful for many people.
was useful for many people.
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我猛然意识到Humanae对许多人来说都是有用的
07:09
It represents a sort of mirror
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它代表了一种镜子
07:12
for those who cannot find
themselves reflected in any label.
themselves reflected in any label.
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给那些在任何标签里都找不到自己的人
07:17
It was amazing
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最奇妙的是，
07:18
that people started to share
their thoughts about the work with me.
their thoughts about the work with me.
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人们开始跟我分享他们关于这个项目的想法
07:23
I have hundreds of that,
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我已经收到成百上千的想法
07:25
I will share with you, too.
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我也会跟你们分享
07:27
A mother of 11 years --
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一个11岁孩子的妈妈
07:30
A mother of an 11-year-old girl wrote me,
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一个11岁女孩的妈妈写信给我
07:35
"Very good for me as a tool
to work on her confidence,
to work on her confidence,
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“对我来说它是一个给孩子建立信心的非常好的工具，
07:38
as this past weekend
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上周
07:40
one of her girlfriends argued with her
that she does not belong
that she does not belong
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她的一个朋友跟她吵架，说她不属于挪威
07:45
and should not be allowed
to live in Norway.
to live in Norway.
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也不应该在挪威生活。
07:50
So your work has
a very special place in my heart
a very special place in my heart
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所以，你的作品对我来说，是很特别，
07:53
and it's very important for me."
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很重要的存在。“
07:58
A woman shared her portrait
on Facebook and wrote,
on Facebook and wrote,
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一位女士在脸书上分享了她的头像并写道：
08:03
"All my life,
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”这一生，
08:04
people from across the globe
had difficulties to place me in a group,
had difficulties to place me in a group,
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世界各地的人都难以将我限定在一个群体，
08:10
a stereotype,
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一种成见，
08:11
a box.
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一个盒子里。
08:12
Perhaps we should stop.
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或许，我们应该停止。
08:15
Instead of framing, ask the individual,
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与其用条条框框去设定，不如问问那个人：
08:18
'How would you label yourself?'
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‘你是怎么定义你自己的？’
08:20
Then I would say,
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然后，我就会说：
08:22
'Hi. I'm Massiel.
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‘你好，我叫Massiel.
08:24
I'm a Dominican-Dutch,
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我是多米尼加-荷兰人，
08:25
I grew up in a mixed family
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我在一个混血的家庭长大，
08:27
and I'm a bisexual woman.' "
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我是一个双性恋。‘“
08:31
Besides these unexpected
and touching reactions,
and touching reactions,
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除了这些让人意想不到，令人感动的反应
08:36
Humanae finds a new life
in a different variety of fields.
in a different variety of fields.
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Humanae还在不同的领域里发现了新的作用。
08:40
Just to show you some examples,
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举几个例子，
08:43
illustrators and art students
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插画家和艺术生
08:45
using it as a reference
for their sketches and their studies.
for their sketches and their studies.
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在他们的草图和学习中把Huamnae作为一种参考
08:50
It's a collection of faces.
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它是一个脸谱的集合
08:52
Researchers in the fields of anthropology,
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人类学、物理学以及神经系统科学的研究者们
08:56
physics and neuroscience
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08:59
use Humanae with different
scientific approaches
scientific approaches
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把Humanae与不同的科学的方法相结合
09:03
related to human ethnicity,
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应用于人类种族划分
09:05
optophysiology,
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病理学
09:07
face recognition
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人脸识别
09:09
or Alzheimer's.
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和阿尔兹海默症。
09:12
One of the most important
impacts of the project
impacts of the project
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这个项目造成的最重大的影响之一
09:15
is that Humanae was chosen
to be the cover of Foreign Affairs,
to be the cover of Foreign Affairs,
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是Humanae被选做《外交事务》的封面
09:20
one of the most relevant
political publications.
political publications.
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这本书是如今最中肯的政治出版物之一。
09:24
And talking about foreign affairs,
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说到外交事务
09:28
I found the perfect
ambassadors for my project ...
ambassadors for my project ...
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我找到了我项目的完美大使——
09:32
teachers.
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老师们。
09:33
They are the ones that use Humanae
as a tool for educational purposes.
as a tool for educational purposes.
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他们是以教育为目的使用Humanae的一群人。
09:40
Their passion encourages me
to go back to drawing classes,
to go back to drawing classes,
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他们的激情鼓舞了我，让我又回到了绘画班
09:46
but this time as a teacher myself.
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不过这一次，我是作为老师回去的。
09:50
My students,
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我的学生们
09:51
both adults and kids,
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有大人也有小孩
09:53
paint their self-portraits,
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给自己画肖像画
09:56
trying to discover
their own unique color.
their own unique color.
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试着去发现自身独特的色彩。
10:08
As a photographer,
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作为一个摄影师
10:10
I realize that I can be a channel
for others to communicate.
for others to communicate.
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我意识到我可以成为他人沟通的渠道
10:17
As an individual,
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作为一个人
10:18
as Angélica,
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作为Angélica
10:21
every time I take a picture,
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每当我照一张照片时
10:24
I feel that I am sitting
in front of a therapist.
in front of a therapist.
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我就感觉像是坐在心理医生面前
10:29
All the frustration, fear and loneliness
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我曾经的所有的挫折、恐惧和孤独
10:34
that I once felt ...
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10:36
becomes love.
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都成了爱
10:41
The last country --
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最后一个国家
10:44
the last country in the world
who abolished slavery
who abolished slavery
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这世界上最后一个废除奴隶制的国家
10:49
is the country where I was born,
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就是我出生的那个国家
10:51
Brazil.
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巴西
10:54
We still have to work hard
to abolish discrimination.
to abolish discrimination.
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我们仍需为为消除歧视努力
11:00
That remains a common practice worldwide,
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因为这个问题在全世界依旧存在，
11:04
and that will not disappear by itself.
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且不会自己消失
11:08
Thank you.
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谢谢大家
11:09
(Applause)
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（鼓掌）
11:23
Thank you.
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Angélica Dass - Artist and photographerBy cataloging every conceivable human skin tone, Angélica Dass illustrates that skin color and race are more complex than they might appear at first glance.
Why you should listen
As a member of a multiracial family, Brazilian artist Angélica Dass is acutely aware of how small differences in skin tone can swell into large misconceptions and stereotypes about race.
In her ongoing project Humanæ, Dass pairs thousands of portraits of people from diverse parts of the world with their Pantone codes, revealing that our racially charged skin color labels -- red, white, brown -- as not only inaccurate but also absurd. Instead, she shows us that "these colors make us see each other as different, even though we are equal."
Angélica Dass | Speaker | TED.com