TED2011
Paul Nicklen: Animal tales from icy wonderlands
Paul Nicklen:冰封仙境的故事
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潛入南極的冰層下，接近令人害怕的豹斑海豹，攝影師Paul Nicklen找到一位特別的朋友。分享他在極地仙境逗趣又充滿熱情的故事，透過出色的照片向我們展現了生活在冰層下的動物們。
Paul Nicklen - Polar photographer
Paul Nicklen photographs the creatures of the Arctic and Antarctic, generating global awareness about wildlife in these isolated and endangered environments. Full bio
Paul Nicklen photographs the creatures of the Arctic and Antarctic, generating global awareness about wildlife in these isolated and endangered environments. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
My journey to become a polar specialist,
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我成為極地專家
00:18
photographing, specializing in the polar regions,
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專門在極地區域攝影的經歷
00:21
began when I was four years old,
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是從我四歲時開始
00:23
when my family moved from Southern Canada
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那時我家從加拿大南部
00:26
to Northern Baffin Island, up by Greenland.
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搬到北部的巴芬島，毗鄰格陵蘭島
00:29
There we lived with the Inuit
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在那兒我們與因紐特人住在一起
00:31
in the tiny Inuit community of 200 Inuit people,
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在僅有200人的小小因紐特人社區中
00:33
where [we] were one of three non-Inuit families.
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有三戶非因紐特家庭，我們是其中之一
00:36
And in this community, we didn't have a television;
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在這個社區裡，我們沒有電視
00:38
we didn't have computers, obviously, radio.
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沒有電腦，當然也沒有無線電
00:41
We didn't even have a telephone.
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甚至電話也沒有
00:44
All of my time was spent outside
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我所有的時間都花在戶外
00:46
with the Inuit, playing.
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和因紐特人一起玩耍
00:48
The snow and the ice were my sandbox,
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冰雪是我的沙坑
00:50
and the Inuit were my teachers.
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因紐特人是我的老師
00:52
And that's where I became
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在那裡，我真正地
00:54
truly obsessed with this polar realm.
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迷上了這個極地王國
00:56
And I knew someday that I was going to do something
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我知道，有一天我會做一些事情
00:58
that had to do with trying to share news about it
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去分享關於這塊土地的新鮮事
01:00
and protect it.
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以及保護它。
01:02
I'd like to share with you, for just two minutes only,
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我想花大概兩分鐘的時間
01:04
some images, a cross-section of my work,
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透過一些圖片，讓各位來瞭解我的工作
01:06
to the beautiful music by Brandi Carlile, "Have You Ever."
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伴著Brandi Carlile優美的音樂《Have You Ever》
01:09
I don't know why National Geographic has done this, they've never done this before,
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我不知道國家地理頻道為何這麼做，他們從未這麼做過
01:12
but they're allowing me to show you a few images
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他們允許我向你們展示
01:14
from a coverage that I've just completed that is not published yet.
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我剛剛完成但尚未發表的新聞報導裡的照片
01:17
National Geographic doesn't do this,
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國家地理頻道通常不會這樣做
01:19
so I'm very excited to be able to share this with you.
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我很高興，能與你們分享這些照片
01:21
And what these images are --
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那麼這是些什麼樣的照片呢？
01:23
you'll see them at the start of the slide show -- there's only about four images --
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你會在幻燈片開頭看到它們，大約只有四張照片
01:26
but it's of a little bear that lives in the Great Bear Rainforest.
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拍的是住在大熊雨林的一隻小熊
01:29
It's pure white, but it's not a polar bear.
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牠的毛色雖然純白，但牠不是北極熊
01:32
It's a spirit bear, or a Kermode bear.
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牠是白靈熊或克莫德熊
01:34
There are only 200 of these bears left.
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現在這種熊只剩下約200隻
01:36
They're more rare than the panda bear.
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比貓熊還稀有
01:39
I sat there on the river for two months without seeing one.
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我在河面上待了兩個月沒有看見一隻
01:42
I thought, my career's over.
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我以為，我的職業生涯完了
01:44
I proposed this stupid story to National Geographic.
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我向《National Geographic》雜誌提議這個愚蠢的故事
01:46
What in the heck was I thinking?
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我到底在想什麽啊？
01:48
So I had two months to sit there
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於是我有兩個月的時間坐在那兒
01:50
and figure out different ways of what I was going to do in my next life,
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弄清楚我接下來的日子該做點什麽別的事情
01:52
after I was a photographer, because they were going to fire me.
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因為我是一名攝影師，因為他們將要解雇我
01:54
Because National Geographic is a magazine; they remind us all the time:
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因為《National Geographic》是一本雜誌，他們始終提醒我們
01:57
they publish pictures, not excuses.
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他們刊登照片，而非藉口
01:59
(Laughter)
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（笑）
02:04
And after two months of sitting there --
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在那兒坐了兩個月之後
02:06
one day, thinking that it was all over,
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有一天，我想著這一切都完了
02:08
this incredible big white male came down,
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這隻不可思議的大白公熊下來了
02:10
right beside me, three feet away from me,
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在我右側，三英尺遠的地方
02:12
and he went down and grabbed a fish and went off in the forest and ate it.
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牠下到水裡，抓起一條魚，回到森林裡把魚吃了
02:15
And then I spent the entire day living my childhood dream
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於是我花了一整天過我童年時夢想的生活
02:18
of walking around with this bear through the forest.
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我跟著這隻熊穿過森林
02:21
He went through this old-growth forest
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牠穿過這片老熟林
02:23
and sat up beside this 400-year-old culturally modified tree and went to sleep.
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然後坐在這棵有400年歷史的文化改造樹邊睡著了
02:26
And I actually got to sleep within three feet of him,
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我真的在離牠三英尺的地方睡著了
02:29
just in the forest, and photograph him.
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就在森林裡，拍攝牠
02:32
So I'm very excited to be able to show you those images
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所以我很高興能向你們展示這些照片
02:35
and a cross-section of my work that I've done on the polar regions.
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以及我在極地所做的工作
02:37
Please enjoy.
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希望你們喜歡
02:40
(Music)
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（音樂）
02:44
Brandi Carlile: ♫ Have you ever wandered lonely through the woods? ♫
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Brandi Carlile: ♫你是否曾獨自遊蕩在森林裡？♫
02:50
♫ And everything there feels just as it should ♫
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♫一切都是本來的摸樣♫
02:55
♫ You're part of the life there ♫
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♫你是其中的一份子♫
02:57
♫ You're part of something good ♫
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♫你是美好事物的一部份
03:00
♫ If you've ever wandered lonely through the woods ♫
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♫如果你曾獨自遊蕩在森林♫
03:06
♫ Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh ♫
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♫喔~♫
03:11
♫ If you've ever wandered lonely through the woods ♫
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♫如果你曾獨自遊蕩在森林裡♫
03:16
♫ Have you ever stared into a starry sky? ♫
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♫你是否曾仰望星空？♫
03:21
♫ Lying on your back, you're asking why ♫
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♫仰臥在地，你有許多疑問♫
03:26
♫ What's the purpose? ♫
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♫生命的目的是什麽？♫
03:28
♫ I wonder, who am I? ♫
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♫我想知道，我是誰？♫
03:31
♫ If you've ever stared into a starry sky ♫
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♫如果你曾仰望星空♫
03:37
♫ Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh ♫
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♫喔~♫
03:43
♫ Aah, ah, aah ♫
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♫啊~♫
03:48
♫ Ah, oh, oh, ah, ah, oh, oh ♫
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♫啊~喔~♫
03:55
♫ Have you ever stared into a starry sky? ♫
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♫你是否曾仰望星空？♫
04:05
♫ Have you ever been out walking in the snow? ♫
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♫你是否曾在雪地漫步？♫
04:10
♫ Tried to get back where you were before ♫
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♫嘗試回到你的故鄉♫
04:15
♫ You always end up ♫
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♫你總是不知道♫
04:17
♫ Not knowing where to go ♫
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♫該去何處♫
04:23
♫ If you've ever been out walking in the snow ♫
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♫如果你曾在雪地漫步♫
04:28
♫ Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh ♫
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♫喔~♫
04:34
♫ Aah, ah, aah, ah, aah ♫
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♫啊~♫
04:38
♫ Ah, ah, oh, ah, ah, oh, ah ♫
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♫啊~喔~♫
04:46
♫ Oh, ah, ah, ah ♫
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♫喔~啊~♫
04:49
♫ Ah, ah, oh, ah, ah, oh, oh ♫
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♫啊~喔~♫
04:57
♫ If you'd ever been out walking you would know ♫
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♫如果你曾外出漫步，你會明了♫
05:04
(Applause)
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（鼓掌）
05:08
Paul Nicklen: Thank you very much. The show's not over.
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Paul Nicklen:非常感謝，演講還沒結束
05:11
My clock is ticking. Okay, let's stop.
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我的時間不多。好，咱們停一下。
05:13
Thank you very much. I appreciate it.
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謝謝，我很感激。
05:15
We're inundated with news all the time
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我們總是被這樣的新聞淹沒
05:18
that the sea ice is disappearing
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海洋冰層正在消失
05:20
and it's at its lowest level.
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已經降到最低水平了
05:22
And in fact, scientists were originally saying
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事實上，科學家們起初是說
05:24
sea ice is going to disappear in the next hundred years, then they said 50 years.
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海洋冰層將在未來的一百年消失，接著他們說50年
05:27
Now they're saying the sea ice in the Arctic,
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現在他們說北極的海洋冰層
05:30
the summertime extent is going to be gone in the next four to 10 years.
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夏季區域的冰層將在未來四到十年內消失
05:33
And what does that mean?
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這是什麽意思呢？
05:35
After a while of reading this in the news, it just becomes news.
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在讀了一陣子相關新聞後，這些也僅僅只是新聞而已
05:38
You glaze over with it.
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你變得對這樣的消息習以為常
05:40
And what I'm trying to do with my work is put faces to this.
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我正試著透過自己的工作讓人們瞭解這一點
05:42
And I want people to understand and get the concept
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我希望人們能夠理解並得到一個概念
05:45
that, if we lose ice,
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如果我們失去海洋冰層
05:47
we stand to lose an entire ecosystem.
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我們肯定會失去整個生態系統
05:49
Projections are that we could lose polar bears; they could become extinct
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預估我們可能會失去北極熊，在未來的50到100年
05:52
in the next 50 to 100 years.
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牠們會絕種
05:54
And there's no better, sexier,
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再也沒有更好、更讓人動心
05:56
more beautiful, charismatic megafauna species
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更美又魅力十足的巨型物種
05:59
for me to hang my campaign on.
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讓我可以繼續探索
06:02
Polar bears are amazing hunters.
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北極熊是神奇的獵人
06:04
This was a bear I sat with for a while on the shores.
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這隻熊和我一起在海邊坐了一會兒
06:06
There was no ice around.
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周圍沒有冰
06:08
But this glacier caved into the water and a seal got on it.
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但有一塊冰川陷在水中，上面有隻海豹，
06:10
And this bear swam out to that seal --
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這隻熊游向那隻海豹－－
06:12
800 lb. bearded seal --
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800磅重的鬍鬚海豹－－
06:14
grabbed it, swam back and ate it.
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牠抓住海豹，游回來把海豹吃了
06:17
And he was so full, he was so happy and so fat eating this seal,
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牠那麼滿足，那麼開心，大口地吃著海豹
06:20
that, as I approached him --
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當我接近牠－－
06:22
about 20 feet away -- to get this picture,
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約20英尺遠－－拍照時
06:24
his only defense was to keep eating more seal.
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牠唯一的防衛就是繼續吃海豹
06:26
And as he ate, he was so full --
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牠吃的時候那麼滿足－－
06:28
he probably had about 200 lbs of meat in his belly --
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牠的胃裡大概有200磅肉了－－
06:31
and as he ate inside one side of his mouth,
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牠用嘴的一邊吃的同時
06:33
he was regurgitating out the other side of his mouth.
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用另一邊反芻
06:36
So as long as these bears have any bit of ice they will survive,
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這些熊只需要少量的冰層就能存活
06:39
but it's the ice that's disappearing.
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但冰層正在消失
06:42
We're finding more and more dead bears in the Arctic.
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我們在北極發現越來越多的死熊
06:45
When I worked on polar bears as a biologist 20 years ago,
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20年前我作為生物學家研究北極熊時
06:47
we never found dead bears.
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我們從未發現死熊
06:49
And in the last four or five years,
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最近四五年
06:51
we're finding dead bears popping up all over the place.
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我們發現所有地方都有死熊出現
06:53
We're seeing them in the Beaufort Sea,
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我們在波弗特海看到牠們
06:55
floating in the open ocean where the ice has melted out.
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浮在冰塊融化殆盡的海面上
06:57
I found a couple in Norway last year. We're seeing them on the ice.
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去年我在挪威發現一對熊夫妻，他們死在冰上
07:00
These bears are already showing signs
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這些死熊已經讓我們感到
07:02
of the stress of disappearing ice.
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冰層消失的壓力
07:05
Here's a mother and her two year-old cub
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這是一隻母熊和她兩歲大的幼熊
07:08
were traveling on a ship a hundred miles offshore in the middle of nowhere,
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正在一塊離岸一百哩的浮冰上走動
07:11
and they're riding on this big piece of glacier ice,
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牠們在這一大塊浮冰上
07:13
which is great for them; they're safe at this point.
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這對牠們來說太好了，待在那兒很安全
07:15
They're not going to die of hypothermia.
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牠們不會因為體溫低而死去
07:17
They're going to get to land.
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牠們會往陸地移動
07:19
But unfortunately, 95 percent of the glaciers in the Arctic
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不幸的是，北極有95％的冰川
07:21
are also receding right now
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正在消失融化
07:23
to the point that the ice is ending up on land
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接近陸地的冰層也幾乎要消失
07:25
and not injecting any ice back into the ecosystem.
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也沒有任何冰重新回到生態系統中
07:29
These ringed seals, these are the "fatsicles" of the Arctic.
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這些環斑海豹，他們是北極的“蛋捲冰淇淋”。
07:31
These little, fat dumplings,
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這些又小又胖的水餃
07:33
150-pound bundles of blubber
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有150磅的鯨脂
07:36
are the mainstay of the polar bear.
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是北極熊的主要食物
07:38
And they're not like the harbor seals that you have here.
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他們不像這裡的麻斑海豹
07:41
These ringed seals also live out their entire life cycle
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這些環斑海豹的整個生命週期
07:44
associated and connected to sea ice.
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都跟海洋冰層息息相關
07:47
They give birth inside the ice,
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他們在冰裡出生
07:49
and they feed on the Arctic cod that live under the ice.
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以生活在冰下的北極鱈魚為食
07:52
And here's a picture of sick ice.
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這是一張冰的照片
07:54
This is a piece of multi-year ice that's 12 years old.
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這是一塊12年的多年冰
07:57
And what scientists didn't predict is that, as this ice melts,
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科學家們沒有預料到，當冰塊融化時
08:00
these big pockets of black water are forming
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同時也形成了大量污水
08:03
and they're grabbing the sun's energy
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汙水會吸收太陽能
08:05
and accelerating the melting process.
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然後加速冰層融化
08:07
And here we are diving in the Beaufort Sea.
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這裡我們潛入波弗特海
08:09
The visibility's 600 ft.; we're on our safety lines;
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能見度為600英尺；我們在安全繩索上
08:12
the ice is moving all over the place.
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冰塊在我們周圍移動
08:14
I wish I could spend half an hour telling you
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我希望可以花一個半小時來告訴你
08:16
about how we almost died on this dive.
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我們是如何差點死於潛水的
08:18
But what's important in this picture is that you have a piece of multi-year ice,
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但這張照片的重點是一塊多年冰
08:21
that big chunk of ice up in the corner.
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上面角落裡那一大塊冰
08:23
In that one single piece of ice,
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在這樣一塊的冰裡
08:25
you have 300 species of microorganisms.
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包含300種微生物
08:27
And in the spring, when the sun returns to the ice,
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春天時，當太陽照耀冰塊時
08:30
it forms the phytoplankton, grows under that ice,
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浮游植物聚集在此，在冰塊底部生長
08:32
and then you get bigger sheets of seaweed,
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會長成一大片海草
08:35
and then you get the zoo plankton feeding on all that life.
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然後你會看到一個以這片海草為生的動物樂園
08:37
So really what the ice does
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那麼冰層實際上
08:39
is it acts like a garden.
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就像一座花園
08:41
It acts like the soil in a garden. It's an inverted garden.
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像是花園裡的土壤，這是一座倒立的花園
08:44
Losing that ice is like losing the soil in a garden.
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失去冰，就像失去了花園裡的土壤
08:46
Here's me in my office.
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這是我在我的辦公室
08:48
I hope you appreciate yours.
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希望你們珍惜自己的辦公室
08:50
This is after an hour under the ice.
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這是在冰下待了一個小時之後
08:53
I can't feel my lips; my face is frozen;
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我的嘴唇失去知覺，臉都凍僵了
08:55
I can't feel my hands; I can't feel my feet.
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我的手和腳也沒有感覺
08:57
And I've come up, and all I wanted to do was get out of the water.
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我已經上來了，我只想離開冰冷的水
09:00
After an hour in these conditions,
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這種狀況持續一小時後
09:02
it's so extreme that, when I go down,
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我已經凍僵，在水下
09:04
almost every dive I vomit into my regulator
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幾乎每次潛水，我都會把調節器吐出來
09:06
because my body can't deal with the stress of the cold on my head.
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因為我的身體無法承受頭部冰冷的壓力
09:09
And so I'm just so happy that the dive is over.
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所以我好高興潛水終於結束了
09:11
I get to hand my camera to my assistant,
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我把照相機遞給助理
09:13
and I'm looking up at him, and I'm going, "Woo. Woo. Woo."
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我抬頭看著他，我說：「呼，呼，呼。」
09:16
Which means, "Take my camera."
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意思是，「拿著照相機。」
09:18
And he thinks I'm saying, "Take my picture."
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他以為我在說：「給我照張相。」
09:20
So we had this little communication breakdown.
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於是我們有了這個小小的溝通障礙
09:23
(Laughter)
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（笑）
09:26
But it's worth it.
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但這一切很值得
09:28
I'm going to show you pictures of beluga whales, bowhead whales,
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我會給你們看白鯨，北極露脊鯨
09:30
and narwhals, and polar bears, and leopard seals today,
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獨角鯨、北極熊和豹斑海豹
09:33
but this picture right here means more to me than any other I've ever made.
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但這些照片對我的意義比對其他看過照片的人更大
09:36
I dropped down in this ice hole, just through that hole that you just saw,
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我跳進冰窟隆，就是剛才你們看到的那個洞
09:39
and I looked up under the underside of the ice,
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我仰視冰層的底部
09:41
and I was dizzy; I thought I had vertigo.
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我暈眩了，以為自己出現幻覺
09:43
I got very nervous -- no rope, no safety line,
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我非常緊張－－沒有粗繩，沒有安全繩索
09:45
the whole world is moving around me --
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整個世界在我周圍移動－－
09:47
and I thought, "I'm in trouble."
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我想：「有麻煩了。」
09:49
But what happened is that the entire underside
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但是整個水下
09:51
was full of these billions of amphipods and copepods
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充滿了成千上萬端足目動物和橈足類
09:54
moving around and feeding on the underside of the ice,
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四處游動，在冰層底部覓食
09:57
giving birth and living out their entire life cycle.
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繁殖，經歷他們整個的生命週期
09:59
This is the foundation of the whole food chain in the Arctic, right here.
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北極圈完整的食物鏈的基礎，就在這兒
10:02
And when you have low productivity in this, in ice,
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當冰層的生命力減弱時
10:05
the productivity in copepods go down.
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橈足類動物的生命力也在減弱
10:08
This is a bowhead whale.
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這是北極露脊鯨
10:10
Supposedly, science is stating
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按照推測，科學研究說明
10:12
that it could be the oldest living animal on earth right now.
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牠是地球上迄今為止最長壽的動物
10:15
This very whale right here could be over 250 years old.
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這隻貨真價實的鯨已經超過250歲了
10:18
This whale could have been born
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牠大概出生在
10:20
around the start of the Industrial Revolution.
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工業革命初期
10:22
It could have survived 150 years of whaling.
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牠自150年以來的捕鯨活動中幸存下來
10:25
And now its biggest threat is the disappearance of ice in the North
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現在牠最大的威脅就是北部冰層的消失
10:28
because of the lives that we're leading in the South.
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原因是我們在南方所造就的生活方式
10:31
Narwhals, these majestic narwhals
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獨角鯨，這些雄偉的獨角鯨
10:33
with their eight-foot long ivory tusks, don't have to be here;
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牠們有八英尺長的乳白色獠牙，牠們不一定要待在這兒
10:36
they could be out on the open water.
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牠們可以去開闊的海域
10:38
But they're forcing themselves to come up in these tiny little ice holes
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但是牠們強迫自己待在這些小小的冰窟隆裡
10:41
where they can breathe, catch a breath,
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只有在這兒它們才能呼吸，喘口氣
10:43
because right under that ice are all the swarms of cod.
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因為冰下有成群的鱈魚
10:46
And the cod are there
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鱈魚在冰下
10:48
because they are feeding on all the copepods and amphipods.
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因為這裡有橈足類和端足目動物可以覓食
10:51
Alright, my favorite part.
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好，我最喜歡部分來了
10:54
When I'm on my deathbed,
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當我臨終時，
10:56
I'm going to remember one story more than any other.
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有一個故事我會記的特別清楚
10:58
Even though that spirit bear moment was powerful,
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儘管遭遇白靈熊的那一刻讓我印象深刻
11:01
I don't think I'll ever have another experience
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但我不會再有另一次
11:03
like I did with these leopard seals.
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和這些豹斑海豹這樣互動的經驗了
11:05
Leopard seals, since the time of Shackleton, have had a bad reputation.
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豹斑海豹，自沙克爾頓那時起，就有不好的名聲
11:08
They've got that wryly smile on their mouth.
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牠們嘴上帶著扭曲的微笑
11:10
They've got those black sinister eyes
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牠們有黑色兇狠的眼睛
11:12
and those spots on their body.
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和身體上的斑點
11:14
They look positively prehistoric and a bit scary.
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牠們看上去顯然是史前動物，還有點嚇人
11:17
And tragically in [2003],
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在悲慘的2004年
11:19
a scientist was taken down and drowned,
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一位科學家被海豹拉進水裡淹死
11:22
and she was being consumed by a leopard seal.
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一隻豹斑海豹正在吃她
11:24
And people were like, "We knew they were vicious. We knew they were."
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人們會說：「我們就知道牠們很兇狠，牠們就是這樣的。」
11:27
And so people love to form their opinions.
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所以人們很喜歡建構自己的觀點
11:29
And that's when I got a story idea:
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那是我產生這個故事靈感的時候：
11:31
I want to go to Antarctica,
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我要去南極洲
11:33
get in the water with as many leopard seals as I possibly can
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盡可能地和很多的豹斑海豹一起待在水中
11:35
and give them a fair shake --
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跟牠們平和的握個手－－
11:37
find out if they really are these vicious animals, or if they're misunderstood.
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弄清楚牠們到底是兇狠的動物，還是被誤解了
11:40
So this is that story.
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這就是那個故事
11:42
Oh, and they also happen to eat happy feet.
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喔，她們有時也會吃《快樂腳》（電影《快樂腳》中的企鵝）
11:45
(Laughter)
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（笑）
11:48
As a species, as humans, we like to say penguins are really cute,
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作為人類這種物種，我們喜歡說企鵝真的很可愛
11:51
therefore, leopard seals eat them, so leopard seals are ugly and bad.
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豹斑海豹吃了牠們，所以豹斑海豹很醜惡
11:54
It doesn't work that way.
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事情不是這樣的
11:56
The penguin doesn't know it's cute,
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當時企鵝不知道牠自己很可愛
11:58
and the leopard seal doesn't know it's kind of big and monstrous.
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豹斑海豹也不知道牠自己是種大怪物
12:00
This is just the food chain unfolding.
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這只是食物鏈的一部分
12:03
They're also big.
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牠們也很大
12:05
They're not these little harbor seals.
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不像這些小小的斑海豹
12:07
They are 12 ft. long, a thousand pounds.
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牠們有12英尺長，一千磅
12:09
And they're also curiously aggressive.
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牠們也愛好奇地進攻
12:12
You get 12 tourists packed into a Zodiac,
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有一群遊客在充氣船上
12:15
floating in these icy waters,
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他們正乘小船漂在這些冰冷的水上
12:17
and a leopard seal comes up and bites the pontoon.
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一隻豹斑海豹游上來咬了船
12:19
The boat starts to sink, they race back to the ship
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小船開始下沉，他們趕緊回到大船上
12:22
and get to go home and tell the stories of how they got attacked.
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回到家，講述他們如何被豹斑海豹攻擊的故事
12:24
All the leopard seal was doing --
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豹斑海豹所做的－－
12:26
it's just biting a balloon.
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只是咬了一只氣球
12:28
It just sees this big balloon in the ocean -- it doesn't have hands --
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牠只是在海面上看到一只大氣球－－牠沒有手－－
12:30
it's going to take a little bite, the boat pops, and off they go.
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牠會咬一小口，船破了，牠們就跑了
12:33
(Laughter)
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（笑）
12:35
So after five days of crossing the Drake Passage --
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在五天橫越德雷克海峽之後－－
12:38
isn't that beautiful.
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這不是很美嗎？
12:41
After five days of crossing the Drake Passage,
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五天橫越德雷克海峽後，
12:44
we have finally arrived at Antarctica.
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我們終於到達南極洲。
12:46
I'm with my Swedish assistant and guide.
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我和我的瑞典助理兼嚮導在一塊兒
12:48
His name is Goran Ehlme from Sweden -- Goran.
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他叫Goran Ehlme，來自瑞典－－Goran。
12:52
And he has a lot of experience with leopard seals. I have never seen one.
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他有很多和豹斑海豹相處的經驗，我以前從沒見過這樣的人
12:55
So we come around the cove in our little Zodiac boat,
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我們乘坐小充氣船來到小灣
12:58
and there's this monstrous leopard seal.
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這隻巨大的豹斑海豹在那兒
13:00
And even in his voice, he goes, "That's a bloody big seal, ya."
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他的聲音甚至在說：「好一隻血腥的大海豹，耶。」
13:02
(Laughter)
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（笑）
13:04
And this seal is taking this penguin by the head,
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這隻海豹抓住企鵝的頭，
13:07
and it's flipping it back and forth.
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正在把牠來回地拽。
13:09
And what it's trying to do is turn that penguin inside-out,
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牠正在試著把企鵝從裡到外翻個面
13:11
so it can eat the meat off the bones,
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這樣牠就可以吃到了去骨頭的肉
13:14
and then it goes off and gets another one.
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然後牠走開去抓另一隻
13:16
And so this leopard seal grabbed another penguin,
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於是牠抓到一隻企鵝
13:18
came under the boat, the Zodiac,
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來到船底下，我們的充氣船
13:20
starting hitting the hull of the boat.
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開始撞擊船身
13:22
And we're trying to not fall in the water.
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我們盡可能避免掉進水裡
13:24
And we sit down, and that's when Goran said to me,
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我們坐下來，這時Goran對我說
13:27
"This is a good seal, ya.
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「這是一隻好海豹耶
13:29
It's time for you to get in the water."
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該是你下水的時候了。」
13:31
(Laughter)
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（笑）
13:34
And I looked at Goran, and I said to him, "Forget that."
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我看著Goran，對他說，「想都別想。」
13:37
But I think I probably used a different word starting with the letter F.
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我想我或許用了另一個F開頭的詞。
13:41
But he was right.
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但他是對的。
13:43
He scolded me out, and said, "This is why we're here.
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他斥責我說：「這就是我們來這兒的目的。
13:45
And you purposed this stupid story to National Geographic.
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你跟國家地理頻道提議這個故事，
13:47
And now you've got to deliver.
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現在你得拿出故事來，
13:49
And you can't publish excuses."
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而不是藉口。」
13:51
So I had such dry mouth --
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我有過這樣的咋舌－－
13:53
probably not as bad as now --
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也許不像現在那麼嚴重－－
13:55
but I had such, such dry mouth.
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但我實在無言以對
13:59
And my legs were just trembling. I couldn't feel my legs.
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我的腿開始發抖，我已經對自己的腿沒感覺了
14:02
I put my flippers on. I could barely part my lips.
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我穿上蛙鞋，我的腳趾幾乎不能分開
14:04
I put my snorkel in my mouth,
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我把呼吸器放到嘴裡
14:06
and I rolled over the side of the Zodiac into the water.
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我翻過充氣船進到水裡
14:09
And this was the first thing she did.
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她做的第一件事就是，
14:11
She came racing up to me, engulfed my whole camera --
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游向我，吞了整個照相機－－
14:14
and her teeth are up here and down here --
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她的牙齒夾住照相機－－
14:17
but Goran, before I had gotten in the water, had given me amazing advice.
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但是Goran，在我下水之前，給了我絕妙的建議
14:20
He said, "If you get scared, you close your eyes, ya, and she'll go away."
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他說：「如果你害怕，就閉上眼睛，她會走開的。」
14:24
(Laughter)
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（笑）
14:27
So that's all I had to work with at that point.
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所以那是我在當時唯一要做的事情
14:29
But I just started to shoot these pictures.
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但我開始拍這些照片
14:31
So she did this threat display for a few minutes,
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她做這種威脅動作幾分鐘後
14:33
and then the most amazing thing happened -- she totally relaxed.
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最神奇的事情發生了－－她完全放鬆了
14:36
She went off, she got a penguin.
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她離開，抓住一隻企鵝
14:38
She stopped about 10 feet away from me,
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她停在大概10英尺遠
14:40
and she sat there with this penguin, the penguin's flapping, and she let's it go.
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她和企鵝一塊待在那兒，企鵝在抖動，她放牠走了
14:43
The penguin swims toward me, takes off.
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那隻企鵝遊向我，逃走了
14:46
She grabs another one. She does this over and over.
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她又抓了一隻，接著又抓了好幾次
14:48
And it dawned on me that she's trying to feed me a penguin.
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我逐漸明白原來她想餵我吃企鵝
14:50
Why else would she release these penguins at me?
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不然她為什麼每次都放這些企鵝給我呢？
14:54
And after she did this four or five times,
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在她抓了四五次之後
14:57
she swam by me with this dejected look on her face.
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她遊過我身邊，臉上帶著沮喪的表情
15:00
You don't want to be too anthropomorphic, but I swear that she looked at me
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你並不想這麼擬人化，但我發誓她看著我
15:03
like, "This useless predator's going to starve in my ocean."
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像在說：「這個沒用的食肉動物要在我的海洋餓死了。」
15:05
(Laughter)
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（笑）
15:10
So realizing I couldn't catch swimming penguins,
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意識到我無法抓住會游動的企鵝
15:12
she'd get these other penguins and bring them slowly towards me,
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她抓了另外別的企鵝，慢慢地把牠們帶到我這兒
15:14
bobbing like this, and she'd let them go.
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像這樣扭動身體，之後放了他們
15:16
This didn't work.
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這也不管用
15:18
I was laughing so hard and so emotional
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我笑得很開心很激動
15:20
that my mask was flooding, because I was crying underwater,
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我的面具充滿了水，因為我在水下哭了
15:22
just because it was so amazing.
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因為這一切太神奇了
15:24
And so that didn't work.
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然後，她那樣做也不管用
15:26
So then she'd get another penguin and try this ballet-like sexy display
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於是她抓了另一隻企鵝，嘗試用像芭蕾一樣的性感動作
15:28
sliding down this iceberg like this. (Laughter)
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像這樣滑下冰山
15:31
And she would sort of bring them over to me and offer it to me.
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她想把牠們帶過來給我
15:33
This went on for four days.
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這樣持續了四天
15:35
This just didn't happen a couple of times.
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只有兩三個時候不是這樣
15:37
And then so she realized I couldn't catch live ones,
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然後她意識到我無法抓住活的企鵝
15:39
so she brought me dead penguins.
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於是她把死的企鵝拿來給我
15:41
(Laughter)
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（笑）
15:44
Now I've got four or five penguins floating around my head,
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現在我的頭邊漂浮著四五隻企鵝
15:48
and I'm just sitting there shooting away.
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我就只是待在那兒不停拍照
15:52
And she would often stop and have this dejected look on her face
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她經常會停下來，臉上掛著沮喪的表情
15:54
like, "Are you for real?"
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像是說：「你不是來真的吧？」
15:56
Because she can't believe I can't eat this penguin.
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因為她不相信我不會吃企鵝
15:58
Because in her world, you're either breeding or you're eating --
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在她的世界里，你不在繁殖就在吃食－－
16:00
and I'm not breeding, so ...
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我沒在繁殖
16:02
(Laughter)
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（笑）
16:04
And then that wasn't enough; she started to flip penguins onto my head.
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這還沒完，她開始扔企鵝到我頭上
16:07
She was trying to force-feed me. She's pushing me around.
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她試著強行餵我，她在周圍推我
16:09
She's trying to force-feed my camera,
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想要強行餵我的照相機
16:11
which is every photographer's dream.
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這是每個攝影師的夢想
16:14
And she would get frustrated; she'd blow bubbles in my face.
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她有點受挫了，開始往我臉上吹泡泡
16:17
She would, I think, let me know that I was going to starve.
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她可能是想告訴我這樣會餓死的
16:19
But yet she didn't stop.
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但她仍然沒有停止
16:21
She would not stop trying to feed me penguins.
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繼續嘗試餵我吃企鵝
16:23
And on the last day with this female
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在和這位女性在一塊兒的最後一天
16:25
where I thought I had pushed her too far,
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我想我把她推得太遠了
16:27
I got nervous because she came up to me,
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我開始緊張，因為她游向我
16:30
she rolled over on her back,
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她把背部翻過來
16:32
and she did this deep, guttural jackhammer sound, this gokgokgokgok.
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她發出像電鑽的的喉音，像「叩叩叩叩」
16:35
And I thought, she's about to bite.
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我以為她要咬我了
16:37
She's about to let me know she's too frustrated with me.
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或者她想讓我知道她對我太失望了
16:40
What had happened was another seal had snuck in behind me,
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其實，是另一隻豹斑海豹溜到我後面
16:43
and she did that to threat display.
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她那麼做是表示威脅
16:45
She chased that big seal away, went and got its penguin
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她把大海豹趕走了，又抓了企鵝
16:47
and brought it to me.
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帶來給我。
16:49
(Laughter)
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（笑）
16:52
That wasn't the only seal I got in the water with.
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這不是我在水裡遇到的唯一一隻海豹
16:54
I got in the water with 30 other leopard seals,
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我和另外30隻豹斑海豹一同在水中
16:57
and I never once had a scary encounter.
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從沒有過驚險的遭遇
17:00
They are the most remarkable animals I've ever worked with,
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他們是我合作過的動物中最令人印象深刻的
17:02
and the same with polar bears.
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北極熊也一樣
17:04
And just like the polar bears,
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和北極熊一樣
17:06
these animals depend on an icy environment.
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這些動物依賴有冰的環境
17:11
I get emotional. Sorry.
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我有點激動，抱歉
17:14
It's a story that lives deep in my heart,
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這是一個深入我心的故事
17:17
and I'm proud to share this with you.
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我很自豪能分享給你們
17:19
And I'm so passionate about it.
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我對這件事充滿了熱情
17:21
Anybody want to come with me to Antarctica or the Arctic, I'll take you; let's go.
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任何人如果想和我一塊兒去南極或北極，我會帶你一塊走
17:24
We've got to get the story out now. Thank you very much.
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我們已經把這個故事說完了，非常感謝各位
17:26
(Applause)
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（鼓掌）
17:28
Thank you.
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謝謝。
17:30
(Applause)
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（鼓掌）
17:34
Thank you.
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謝謝。
17:36
(Applause)
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（鼓掌）
17:42
Thank you. Thanks very much.
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謝謝，非常謝謝
17:44
(Applause)
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（鼓掌）
17:46
Thank you.
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謝謝。
17:48
(Applause)
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（鼓掌）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paul Nicklen - Polar photographerPaul Nicklen photographs the creatures of the Arctic and Antarctic, generating global awareness about wildlife in these isolated and endangered environments.
Why you should listen
Paul Nicklen grew up one of only a few non-Inuit in an Inuit settlement on Baffin Island, Nunavut, Canada -- a childhood that taught him the patience, stamina and respect for nature required for his beat in the frigid climes of Earth’s polar regions. Best known for his vivid and intimate wildlife photos for National Geographic, Nicklen started out a biologist in the Northwest Territories, gathering data on such species as lynx, grizzlies, and polar bears. Today he bridges the gap between scientific research and the public, showing how fragile and fast-changing habitats are profoundly affecting wildlife.
During the course of his workday Nicklen regularly comes face-to-face with fantastic creatures: narwhals, Arctic foxes, elephant seals, and more. His most amazing experience? An underwater encounter with a leopard seal who for four days tried to feed him penguins through the "mouth" of his lens.
Paul Nicklen | Speaker | TED.com