Amit Kalra: 3 creative ways to fix fashion's waste problem
艾密特卡爾拉: 解決時尚業廢棄物問題的三種創意方式
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cost-effective way to be stylish.
at my local thrift store,
一間當地的二手商店,
to become my treasure.
for your average
vintage T-shirt to wear.
at the intersection of design
the most out of the things I was finding,
發現的東西發揮到極至,
garments that I was finding,
我找到的九十年代風格服飾,
my own clothes from scratch ever since,
開始裁製和製作我的衣服,
is uniquely my own.
racks of clothes at these thrift stores,
從無數的架上挑選東西時,
that I don't buy?
at these secondhand stores.
on the wholesale side,
我在批發的這一塊工作,
some of the products that we sell
of these thrift stores.
進入到我的工作生活中。
into my work life, as well.
a very scary supply chain
非常駭人的供應鏈,
pretty troubling realities.
I was sorting though
挑選的那些衣服,
所有服飾中的冰山一角。
of the total amount of garments
of the total textile and garment waste
或以某種方式回收,
or recycled in some way,
of textile and garment waste
does the problem justice.
of clothing and textile waste
每年就有近 1300 萬噸的
in just the United States alone.
roughly 200 T-shirts per person
in my home town of Toronto,
多倫多最大的體育場,
three times the size of that stadium.
會是體育場容量的三倍。
are the more polite North Americans,
是比較有禮貌的北美人,
was seeing that the fashion industry
polluter in the world
the oil and gas industry
而訝異,那我就是在說謊。
to hear they were the number one polluter.
that that's an industry
sticking to the status quo.
doesn't really change
on driving profitability
真的讓我很意外。
that the fashion industry was number two.
the fashion industry stands for.
許多我們消費的東西,
a lot of the things we do consume,
來生產我們購買的衣服。
the clothes that we buy each year.
of clothing per year
of water to produce.
per household, per year.
that always has been
on the forefront of design,
設計的最前線,
要設計得舒適、流行,
to be comfortable, designed to be trendy
to be sustainable
aptitude for change
business practices.
all we have to do
to be recyclable at the end of their life.
可以回收的衣服即可。
to leave to the professionals.
thrift store aficionado
posit one perspective,
kind of like building with Lego.
積木的方式來做服裝設計。
but very easily manipulated.
is very rarely modular.
with its buttons, zippers and trim.
有釦子、有拉鏈、有鑲邊。
recycle a jacket like this,
to easily remove these items
by shredding it
gets made into new fabric
or new T-shirts, for example.
with all of these extra items,
are actually quite difficult to remove.
more time or more money
cost-effective to throw it away
if we design clothes in a modular way
我們可以用組裝方式來設計衣服,
at the end of their lives.
to have a hidden wireframe,
用隱藏式的線框,
重要的物件都連結在一起。
that holds all important items together.
can have all of these extra items,
就能讓所有額外物件,
attached to the fabric.
is remove its fish bone
easier than before.
is definitely one piece of the puzzle.
that the fashion industry has
開始設計在丟棄時
and start to design clothes
at the end of their lives.
we have in our closet
that have gems in our drawers
which is great.
即使只延長九個月,
of a garment by even only nine months
在廢棄物與水方面造成的
that that garment has
are always going to change
something different than you were today
friendly you want to be.
是永遠不會退流行的。
that never go out of style.
你的襪子、內褲、甚至睡衣。
your socks, underwear, even your pajamas.
穿到不能穿為止,
right down to the bone,
throwing them in the garbage
that have holes in them
to compost these items
is start to shift more of our resources
把我們更多的資源做轉移,
using more natural fibers,
開始生產更多這類物品,
are two critical priorities.
是兩件重要的優先工作。
that we have to rethink
化學染料中有 10~20%
of the harsh chemical dye that we use
production hubs in developing nations.
製造中心附近的水中。
that these harsh chemicals
at keeping a garment a specific color
衣服保有特定的顏色,
that keep that bright red dress
to use something different?
in our kitchen cabinets at home
和藥草來染色衣服呢?
spices and herbs to dye our clothes?
that would allow for us to stain material,
來將織物材料給染色,
than the clothes that were dyed harshly
刺激性化學物染色方式
would allow for us
and environmentally friendlier.
personal appearance
能夠展現他們的品牌、
to showcase their brand
on our Instagram feeds
more personalized, more unique,
and with each wear
and wearing ripped jeans for years.
磨損和破洞的牛仔褲。
of clothes that exist in our wardrobe
會在衣櫥中隨著我們的
我在今天來這裡之前,
and the state of her kitchen,
把這件上衣染色。
before coming here today.
are going to have on their Instagram feed.
貼文上都不會出現的東西。
in their kitchen sink at home.
on a commercial scale,
來將衣服染色的需求
harsh chemical dyes for our clothes
is fiercely competitive.
競爭非常劇烈。
a product at scale
will become more unique over time
with customization for years.
a bespoke suiting platform,
a bespoke dress-making platform,
possible from your couch.
其線上鞋子客製化平台,
their online shoe customization platforms
businesses encounter.
企業會遇到的挑戰。
an environmentally friendly product
seismic industry shift.
what's best for our environment
and there's no one-step solution.
with their death in mind.
is the perfect industry
迫切需要的永續未來。
to the sustainable future
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Amit Kalra - Fashion enthusiastAmit Kalra wants to fix fashion's pollution problem.
Why you should listen
When Amit Kalra was 20, he decided he wanted to be more stylish than his budget would allow. He taught himself to design and make his own clothing, sifting through thrift stores for cheap materials. Kalra's side project of cutting and sewing recycled clothes for friends and small clothing brands led him to an idea that he hopes will turn the fashion industry on its head -- and save the planet while he’s at it.
Kalra holds a Bachelor of Commerce from Queen's University in Ontario, Canada. At PVH Canada, he manages the planning, operations and finances for their Dress Shirt division. Outside of work, he attends fashion school part-time.
Amit Kalra | Speaker | TED.com