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Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
Paola Antonelli: A kapucni 3.000 éves története
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A kapucnis pulóver sokkal több, mint egy kényelmes melegítőfelső. A formatervezési kurátor, Paola Antonelli mutatja be nekünk a történetét.
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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A hoodie – kapucnis felső –
zseniális cucc.
zseniális cucc.
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
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Egyike azoknak időtlen daraboknak,
amire nem is igazán gondolunk,
amire nem is igazán gondolunk,
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
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mert annyira jól működik,
hogy az életünk részévé vált.
hogy az életünk részévé vált.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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Mondhatnánk: egy nem hivalkodó remekmű.
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[Kicsiny dolog.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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[Nagy ötlet.]
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
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[Paola Antonelli a hoodie-ról]
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
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A hoodie --
még ha épp nem is így hívták --
még ha épp nem is így hívták --
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
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a történelem során mindig jelkép volt,
jót és rosszat is jelképezett.
jót és rosszat is jelképezett.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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A legkorábbiakat
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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a régi görögöktől és
a rómaiktól ismerjük.
a rómaiktól ismerjük.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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A középkorban sok szerzetes
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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hordott köpenyszerű ruhadarabot,
amire kapucnit – hood – varrtak,
amire kapucnit – hood – varrtak,
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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innen ered, hogy hoodie.
00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
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A 17. században a hölgyek
csuklyát viseltek,
csuklyát viseltek,
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
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hogy az alá rejtőzzenek,
amikor a szeretőjükhöz tartottak.
amikor a szeretőjükhöz tartottak.
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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Természetesen ott van
a legenda, a fantázia is.
a legenda, a fantázia is.
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
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A csuklya hozzátársul a kaszás alakjához.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
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Hozzátársul a hóhér alakjához.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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Úgyhogy megvan a sötét oldala is.
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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A hoodie modern megtestesülése --
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
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egy olyan pamutból készült pulóver,
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
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amire zsinóros kapucnit varrtak;
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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néha erszényes zsebe is van.
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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Ezt az 1930-as években mutatta be
a Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
a Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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Ma már Championnak hívják.
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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A sportolókat hivatott melegen tartani.
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
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Mert hogy egy praktikus,
kényelmes ruhadarab,
kényelmes ruhadarab,
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
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ezért a munkásemberek
mindenütt hamar átvették.
mindenütt hamar átvették.
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
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Majd az 1980-as években
a hip-hip és break táncosok
a hip-hip és break táncosok
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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és a gördeszkások körében is megjelent,
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
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elterjedt a fiatalok utcai kultúrájában.
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
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Mindemelett hihetetlenül kényelmes is,
01:52
perfect for the streets
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tökéletes az utcára,
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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ráadásul anonimitást is adott,
01:57
when you needed it.
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ha kellett.
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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És itt van Mark Zuckerberg is,
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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aki ellenszegül az üzletemberek
tiszteletet parancsoló öltözékének.
tiszteletet parancsoló öltözékének.
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
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A kapucni érdekes módon azt is mutatja,
hogyan változtak az erőviszonyok.
hogyan változtak az erőviszonyok.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
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Ha valakin öltöny van,
akkor az biztos a testőr.
akkor az biztos a testőr.
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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Aki igazán befolyásos, az pólót,
farmert és hoodie-t visel.
farmert és hoodie-t visel.
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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Könnyű elképzelni,
milyen lehet egy hoodie-t viselni.
milyen lehet egy hoodie-t viselni.
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
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Azonnal a fejünkre húzott
kapucnira gondolunk,
kapucnira gondolunk,
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
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érezzük a melegséget
és a biztonságot,
és a biztonságot,
02:26
but at the same time,
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ugyanakkor
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
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a lélektani oldal is megjelenik.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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Amikor magunkra öltjük a hoodie-t,
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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hirtelen nagyobb biztonságban
érezzük magunkat,
érezzük magunkat,
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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olyan, mintha saját páncélunk lenne.
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
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Jól tudjuk, mit fejezett ki
a hoodie
a hoodie
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
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az elmúlt években
az Egyesült Államokban.
az Egyesült Államokban.
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
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Amikor Trayvon Martint,
egy 17 éves afroamerikai fiút
egy 17 éves afroamerikai fiút
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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egy környékbeli polgárőr lelőtt,
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
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és Amerika-szerte zajlott
a Million Hoodie March,
a Million Hoodie March,
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
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ahol az emberek kapucnit húztak a fejükre,
03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
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és az utcákat járva
az efféle előítélet ellen tüntettek.
az efféle előítélet ellen tüntettek.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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Nem fordul olyan gyakran elő,
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
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hogy egy ruhadarab ilyen jelkép legyen,
ekkora történelemmel bírjon,
ekkora történelemmel bírjon,
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
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és ennyiféle külön világot
magában foglaljon,
magában foglaljon,
03:17
as the hoodie.
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mint a kapucnis pulóver.
03:18
So, like all garments,
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Ahogy minden öltözéknek,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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különösen a valóban viselhetőknek,
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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úgy ennek is egyszerű a szabása.
03:25
But at the same time,
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Ugyanakkor
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
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számtalan lehetőséget tartogat.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com