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Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
保拉安特那利: 兜帽上衣的三千年歷史
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兜帽上衣並不只是舒適的汗衫。設計策展人保拉安特那利帶我們看兜帽上衣的歷史。
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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兜帽上衣是樣很了不起的東西。
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
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它是種不受時間影響的東西，
我們幾乎不會去思考它，
我們幾乎不會去思考它，
因為它被用得很好，
已經是我們生活的一部分。
已經是我們生活的一部分。
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
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00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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我們稱它為「謙虛的大作」。
00:24
[Small thing.]
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〔小東西。〕
00:25
[Big idea.]
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〔大點子。〕
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
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〔保拉安特那利談兜帽上衣〕
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
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兜帽上衣一直是──
即使以前沒有被這麼稱呼──
即使以前沒有被這麼稱呼──
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
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一直是歷史上的代表性象徵，
理由有好的也有不好的。
理由有好的也有不好的。
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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我們能追溯到最早的兜帽上衣，
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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是在古希臘和古羅馬的時候。
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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在中世紀，會看到很多僧侶
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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穿著像斗篷一樣的衣服，
上面連著兜帽，
上面連著兜帽，
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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因此，叫做「兜帽上衣」。
00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
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十七世紀的女性會穿兜帽上衣，
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
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目的是在去見愛人時
隱藏自己的面孔。
隱藏自己的面孔。
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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當然，還有傳奇，還有幻想。
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
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兜帽上衣的形象和死神連結在一起。
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
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兜帽上衣的形象和
行刑者連結在一起。
行刑者連結在一起。
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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兜帽上衣也有黑暗的一面。
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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到了現代的兜帽上衣，
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
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通常是棉質針織的衣服，
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
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上面連著有拉繩的兜帽；
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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有時前方會有袋鼠口袋──
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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這是三〇年代由 Knickerbocker
織品公司推出的，
織品公司推出的，
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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就是現在的 Champion 運動服公司。
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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它的目的是要幫運動員保暖。
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
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當然，因為這種衣服功能好又舒服，
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
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它很快就被各地的工匠採用。
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
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接著，在八〇年代，
穿兜帽上衣的人還包括
穿兜帽上衣的人還包括
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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跳嘻哈和街舞的男孩、玩滑板的人，
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
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它變成了年輕街頭文化的一種流行。
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
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同時，它也超舒服好穿，
01:52
perfect for the streets
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很適合在街上穿，
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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它還有匿名的附加價值，
01:57
when you needed it.
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若你需要的話。
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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接著有馬克祖克柏，
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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他公然反對在大會議上
商業人士要盛裝打扮的習俗。
商業人士要盛裝打扮的習俗。
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
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有趣的是，這也是展現出權力
已經轉換了的一種方式。
已經轉換了的一種方式。
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
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若你穿兩件式西裝，你可能是保鑣。
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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真正有權力的人，穿的是
兜帽上衣搭配Ｔ恤和牛仔褲。
兜帽上衣搭配Ｔ恤和牛仔褲。
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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思考兜帽上衣的
實體面向是很容易的。
實體面向是很容易的。
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
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你馬上就可以想到把兜帽戴上，
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
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你能感到溫暖以及受保護的感覺，
02:26
but at the same time,
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但同時，
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
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你也可以感受到它的心理面向。
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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想像穿著兜帽上衣，
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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突然間，你就覺得比較受保護，
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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你覺得你在自己的保護殼當中。
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
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我們都很清楚，在美國，過去幾年
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
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兜帽變得很有重要意義。
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
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當十七歲的非裔美國孩子
特雷沃恩馬丁
特雷沃恩馬丁
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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被街坊的義警射殺，
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
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全美展開了百萬兜帽上衣大遊行，
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
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人們會穿著兜帽上衣並把兜帽戴上，
03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
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在街上遊行，抗議這種歧視。
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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這種事不常發生，
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
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很少會有一種服裝能有
這麼多象徵性及歷史意義，
這麼多象徵性及歷史意義，
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
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且包含了這麼多不同的領域，
03:17
as the hoodie.
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兜帽上衣做到了。
03:18
So, like all garments,
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所以，如同所有服裝，
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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特別是真正實用的服裝，
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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兜帽上衣的設計很基本。
03:25
But at the same time,
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但同時，
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
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它又有著無限的可能性。
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com