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Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
保拉·安东内利: 帽衫的历史——上下三千年
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帽衫不仅仅是一件舒适的运动衫。让纽约现代艺术博物馆建筑设计分馆馆长——保拉·安东内利，带我们走进帽衫的历史。
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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帽衫是非常神奇的东西。
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
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是那种早已悄悄融入我们的生活，
几乎被我们遗忘了的
无数物件之一。
无数物件之一。
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
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我们称它们为 “谦虚的杰作”。
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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【小物件】
00:24
[Small thing.]
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00:25
[Big idea.]
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【大点子】
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
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【保拉·安东内利——帽衫】
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
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帽衫 ——就算以前
它不叫这个名字——
它不叫这个名字——
不论好坏，它都一直是
历史的风向标。
历史的风向标。
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
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00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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我们可追溯的最早的帽衫，
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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起源于古希腊和古罗马。
中世纪时，很多修士会穿
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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带帽兜的披肩式袍子，
所以就有了“帽衫”这个名字。
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
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17世纪的女性也穿帽衫，
目的是在与情人见面时隐蔽自己。
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
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当然，有各种各样的传说和臆想，
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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有穿着帽衫拿着镰刀的死神，
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
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还有穿着帽衫的刽子手。
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
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那是帽衫历史中黑暗的一面。
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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帽衫在现代的化身——
通常是由棉布制成的运动衫，
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
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后面带着一个边沿被
细绳贯通的帽子：
细绳贯通的帽子：
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
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有时它前面还有一个口袋——
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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上世纪30年代，Knickerbocker Knitting
公司把这种衣服推行到市场上。
公司把这种衣服推行到市场上。
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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现在公司改名为“Champion”。
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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帽衫曾是为运动员保暖而设计的。
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
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但因为其功能多样，且十分舒适，
在世界各地的工人
群体中迅速风靡起来。
群体中迅速风靡起来。
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
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到了上个世纪80年代左右，
帽衫也在嘻哈说唱文化爱好者，
帽衫也在嘻哈说唱文化爱好者，
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
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01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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以及滑板爱好者中流行起来，
并在这种年轻的
街头文化中占据了一席之地。
街头文化中占据了一席之地。
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
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同时，帽衫极舒适的特点，
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
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也非常适合街头穿着，
01:52
perfect for the streets
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01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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并在你需要的时候，添加了一份
隐藏身份的色彩。
01:57
when you needed it.
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然后还有马克·扎克伯格，
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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一个挑衅商业人士习以为常的
正式着装风俗的人。
正式着装风俗的人。
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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有趣的是，帽衫也成为了一种
展示权力转变的方式。
展示权力转变的方式。
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
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02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
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如果你身穿整套西服，
那估计你是一名保镖。
那估计你是一名保镖。
真正执掌大权的是那个
穿着T恤及帽衫，还有牛仔裤的人。
穿着T恤及帽衫，还有牛仔裤的人。
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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穿好帽衫时的样子很容易想象，
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
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你可以马上就体验到
戴上帽衫帽子的感觉，
戴上帽衫帽子的感觉，
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
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那种温暖和安全感，
与此同时，
02:26
but at the same time,
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02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
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你也能感受到心理上的感觉。
我的意思是，想象着
穿了上一件帽衫，
穿了上一件帽衫，
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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突然间就有一种受到保护的感觉，
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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感觉自己在自己的保护壳里面。
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
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我们清楚地知道，帽衫
在美国的过去几年里，
在美国的过去几年里，
有着什么样的意义。
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
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02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
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当一个17岁的美国非裔的孩子
塔拉万·马丁(Trayvon Martin)
塔拉万·马丁(Trayvon Martin)
被一个治安维护者枪杀时，
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
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全美国有上百万
穿着帽衫的人进行游行示威，
穿着帽衫的人进行游行示威，
这些人戴上帽衫的帽子，
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
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03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
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在街上游行示威来抵制这种偏见。
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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一种服饰蕴含了
如此重大的意义和历史，
这并不常见，
这并不常见，
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
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更何况是像帽衫这样
所涉及的领域
所涉及的领域
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
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如此广泛的服装，
03:17
as the hoodie.
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就像所有的服装一样，
03:18
So, like all garments,
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尤其是所有实用至上的服装，
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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它拥有着最普通的设计。
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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03:25
But at the same time,
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但与此同时，
在它身上又蕴藏着无数的可能性。
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com