TEDGlobal 2017
Walé Oyéjidé: Fashion that celebrates African strength and spirit
瓦雷歐耶吉德: 讚頌非洲力量和精神的時尚
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「身為非洲人的意義就是被文化所鼓舞，對未來充滿不朽的希望。」設計師及 TED 成員瓦雷歐耶吉德如是說。他的品牌是 Ikiré Jones（在漫威的《黑豹》中可以看到），他使用古典設計來展示出通常被邊緣化之族群的優雅與典雅，他美麗的剪裁在訴說著一個故事。
Walé Oyéjidé - Designer, writer, musician, lawyer
TED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling. Full bio
TED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
It is often said that the stories
of history are written by its victors,
of history are written by its victors,
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常有人說，歷史故事
是由勝利者書寫的，
是由勝利者書寫的，
00:17
but if this is true,
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但，如果真是如此，
00:18
what becomes of the downtrodden,
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那些受壓迫的人成了什麼？
00:20
and how can they ever hope
to aspire for something greater
to aspire for something greater
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他們又要如何期望
能嚮往更偉大的事物，
能嚮往更偉大的事物，
00:23
if they are never told the stories
of their own glorious pasts?
of their own glorious pasts?
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若從沒有人告訴他們
關於他們自己光榮過往的故事？
關於他們自己光榮過往的故事？
00:27
Ostensibly, I stand before you
as a mere maker of clothing,
as a mere maker of clothing,
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表面上，我站在大家面前的
身份只是個服飾製作者，
身份只是個服飾製作者，
00:31
but within the folds of ancient fabrics
and modern textiles,
and modern textiles,
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但在古老織物和現代紡織的褶皺中，
00:34
I have found a higher calling.
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我找到了更崇高的呼喚。
00:37
Through my work as a designer,
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透過設計師的工作，
00:38
I've discovered the importance
of providing representation
of providing representation
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我發現很重要的一點是要能夠代表
00:42
for the marginalized members
of our society,
of our society,
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我們社會中被邊緣化的成員，
00:45
and the importance of telling
the most vulnerable among us
the most vulnerable among us
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並且要告訴我們當中最脆弱的人,
00:48
that they no longer have
to compromise themselves
to compromise themselves
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他們不再需要妥協讓步，
00:50
just so they can fit in
with an uncompromising majority.
with an uncompromising majority.
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只為了要融入不願妥協讓步的多數。
00:54
It turns out that fashion,
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知道嗎？時尚──
00:56
a discipline many of us
consider to be trivial,
consider to be trivial,
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許多人認為不重要的學科，
00:58
can actually be a powerful tool
for dismantling bias
for dismantling bias
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實際上是種強大的工具，
可以去除偏見，
可以去除偏見，
01:02
and bolstering the self-images
of underrepresented populations.
of underrepresented populations.
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並改善那些邊緣人群的自我形象。
01:06
My interest in using design
as a vehicle for social change
as a vehicle for social change
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我對把設計當作社會
改變的工具很感興趣，
改變的工具很感興趣，
01:10
happens to be a personal one.
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這跟我本身的經歷有關。
01:12
As a Nigerian American,
I know how easily the term "African"
I know how easily the term "African"
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身為奈及利亞裔美國人，
我知道「非洲」這個詞
我知道「非洲」這個詞
01:15
can slip from being
an ordinary geographic descriptor
an ordinary geographic descriptor
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很容易就會從一般的地理描述詞，
不知不覺中變成一個貶義詞語。
01:18
to becoming a pejorative.
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01:21
For those of us
from this beautiful continent,
from this beautiful continent,
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對我們來自這美麗大陸的人而言，
01:24
to be African is to be inspired by culture
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身為非洲人的意義
就是被文化所鼓舞，
就是被文化所鼓舞，
01:27
and to be filled with undying
hope for the future.
hope for the future.
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對未來充滿不朽的希望。
01:30
So in an attempt to shift
the misguided perceptions that many have
the misguided perceptions that many have
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所以，為了試圖改變很多人
對我的出生地的
對我的出生地的
01:35
about the place of my birth,
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不正確的看法，
01:36
I use design as a means to tell stories,
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我透過設計來講故事，
01:39
stories about joy,
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關於喜悅的故事，
01:41
stories about triumph,
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關於勝利的故事，
01:42
stories about perseverance
all throughout the African diaspora.
all throughout the African diaspora.
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關於非裔歷史上的所有
堅持不懈的故事。
堅持不懈的故事。
01:46
I tell these stories
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我說這些故事，
01:47
as a concerted effort
to correct the historical record,
to correct the historical record,
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是為了努力改正歷史記錄，
01:51
because, no matter
where any of us is from,
where any of us is from,
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因為，不論我們來自何方，
01:54
each of us has been touched
by the complicated histories
by the complicated histories
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我們每個人都曾經被那些
有關我們家族的
有關我們家族的
01:56
that brought our families
to a foreign land.
to a foreign land.
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複雜的遷移歷史所打動。
01:59
These histories shape
the way we view the world,
the way we view the world,
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這些歷史形塑了我們看世界的方式，
02:02
and they mold the biases
we carry around with us.
we carry around with us.
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它們也造就了我們帶在身上的偏見。
02:06
To combat these biases,
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為了對抗這些偏見，
02:07
my work draws aesthetics
from different parts of the globe
from different parts of the globe
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我的作品汲取全球各地的美學，
02:10
and crafts a narrative
about the importance
about the importance
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向人們傳遞
02:12
of fighting for inclusivity.
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為包容性而戰的重要性。
02:15
By refashioning images
from classic European art
from classic European art
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我把經典歐洲藝術重製成新的畫面，
02:18
and marrying them with African aesthetics,
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將它們和非洲美學結合，
02:20
I am able to recast people of color
in roles of prominence,
in roles of prominence,
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我能夠把有色人群
放到顯赫的角色中，
放到顯赫的角色中，
02:23
providing them with a degree of dignity
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給予他們一定程度的尊嚴，
02:25
they didn't have in earlier times.
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這是在早期他們所沒有的。
02:29
This approach subverts the historically
accepted narrative of African inferiority,
accepted narrative of African inferiority,
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這種方法推翻了歷史上
常見的非洲弱勢故事，
常見的非洲弱勢故事，
02:33
and it serves as inspiration
for people of color
for people of color
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它可以鼓舞有色人群，
02:36
who have grown wary of seeing
themselves depicted without sophistication
themselves depicted without sophistication
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一直以來那些對他們的
不成熟、不優雅的形象描繪
不成熟、不優雅的形象描繪
讓他們越來越擔心。
02:39
and without grace.
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02:42
Each of these culture-bending tapestries
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每一幅篡改文化的繡帷，
02:44
becomes a tailored garment
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都變成訂做的服飾，
02:46
or a silk scarf, like the one I am
very coincidentally wearing right now.
very coincidentally wearing right now.
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或是絲巾，就像我現在
碰巧圍著的這條絲巾一樣。
碰巧圍著的這條絲巾一樣。
02:50
(Laughter)
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（笑聲）
02:51
And even when surrounded
in a structure of European classicism,
in a structure of European classicism,
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即使是被歐洲古典
主義的結構給包圍，
主義的結構給包圍，
02:55
these narratives boldly extoll
the merits of African empowerment.
the merits of African empowerment.
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這些故事仍然大膽地
讚頌非洲賦權的功績。
讚頌非洲賦權的功績。
02:59
In this way, the tools of the masters
become masterworks
become masterworks
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以這種方式，大師的工具成了傑作，
03:04
to celebrate those
who were once subservient.
who were once subservient.
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來讚揚那些曾經卑屈的人。
03:09
This metaphor extends
beyond the realm of art
beyond the realm of art
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這種隱喻延伸到了藝術領域之外，
03:11
and out into the real world.
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進到了真實的世界。
03:13
Whether worn by refugees
or world-changing entrepreneurs,
or world-changing entrepreneurs,
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不論是被難民或是
能改變世界的企業家所穿著，
能改變世界的企業家所穿著，
03:16
when people are allowed
the freedom to present themselves
the freedom to present themselves
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當人們能夠自由呈現自己
03:19
in a manner that celebrates
their own unique identities,
their own unique identities,
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獨一無二的身份時，
03:22
a magical thing happens.
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魔法般的事情方式了。
03:24
We stand taller.
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我們站得更高了。
03:25
We're more proud and self-aware
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我們更自豪也更自覺了，
03:27
because we're presenting
our true, authentic selves.
our true, authentic selves.
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因為我們呈現的是真正、真實的自我。
03:30
And those of us who are around them
in turn become more educated,
in turn become more educated,
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而在他們身邊的那些人，
也會變得更有知識、更開放，
也會變得更有知識、更開放，
03:34
more open and more tolerant
of their different points of view.
of their different points of view.
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對於不同於他們的觀點也更能寬容。
03:38
In this way, the clothes that we wear
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以這種方式，我們穿著的服飾
03:41
can be a great illustration
of diplomatic soft power.
of diplomatic soft power.
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能成為外交軟實力的極佳說明。
03:45
The clothes that we wear
can serve as bridges
can serve as bridges
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我們穿著的服飾能夠扮演橋樑，
03:47
between our seemingly disparate cultures.
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連結我們似乎迥然不同的文化。
03:50
And so, yeah, ostensibly I stand
before you as a mere maker of clothing.
before you as a mere maker of clothing.
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所以，是的，表面上我站在你們
面前的身份只是個服飾製作者。
面前的身份只是個服飾製作者。
03:56
But my work has always
been about more than fashion.
been about more than fashion.
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但我的作品向來都不只是時尚。
04:00
It has become my purpose
to rewrite the cultural narratives
to rewrite the cultural narratives
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我的目標就是要重寫文化故事，
04:02
so that people of color can be seen
in a new and nuanced light,
in a new and nuanced light,
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讓人們能從新的、
微妙的角度來看待有色人群，
微妙的角度來看待有色人群，
04:06
and so that we,
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這麼一來，我們，
04:08
the proud children of sub-Saharan Africa,
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撒哈拉以南非洲的驕傲子孫，
便能帶著驕傲橫越全球。
04:10
can traverse the globe
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04:11
while carrying ourselves with pride.
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04:14
It was indeed true
that the stories of history
that the stories of history
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的確，歷史的故事
04:17
were told by its old victors,
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是由其古老的勝利者所訴說的，
04:20
but I am of a new generation.
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但我代表新的一代人。
04:23
My work speaks for those
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我的作品為那些決定
04:24
who will no longer let their futures
be dictated by a troubled past.
be dictated by a troubled past.
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不再讓不幸的過去
主宰他們的未來的人發聲。
主宰他們的未來的人發聲。
04:28
Today, we stand ready
to tell our own stories
to tell our own stories
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現今，我們已經準備好
訴說我們自己的故事，
訴說我們自己的故事，
04:32
without compromise, without apologies.
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沒有妥協讓步，沒有道歉。
04:35
But the question still remains:
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現在的問題是：
04:37
are you prepared
for what you are about to hear?
for what you are about to hear?
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你們準備好要聽了嗎？
04:42
I hope you are, because
we are coming regardless.
we are coming regardless.
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我希望你們準備好了，
因為不論如何我們都要來了。
因為不論如何我們都要來了。
04:46
(Applause)
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（掌聲）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Walé Oyéjidé - Designer, writer, musician, lawyerTED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling.
Why you should listen
As the founder of Ikiré Jones, Walé Oyéjidé, Esq. employs fashion design as a vehicle to celebrate the perspectives of marginalized populations.
In addition to his role as the brand's creative director, Walé Oyéjidé designs Ikiré Jones's textiles/accessories and serves as the company's writer. Oyéjidé is a TED Fellow, and his apparel design can be seen in the upcoming Marvel Studios film "Black Panther."
Oyéjidé's design work was part of the "Making Africa" contemporary design exhibit, which was at the Vitra Design Museum in Germany, the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain, the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, and the HIGH Museum of Art in Atlanta. He was also featured in the "Creative Africa" exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. His work exhibited at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art and the Fowler Museum, UCLA. He has been invited to lecture about his work in Brazil, Ecuador, France and Tanzania. His designs also appeared as part of the "Generation Africa" fashion show at Pitti Uomo 89 in Florence, Italy.
Oyéjidé's writings include freelance creative copywriting for Airbnb. He is also an attorney, public speaker, and a recording artist/producer that has collaborated with J-Dilla and MF Doom, among others. And for what it's worth, Esquire Magazine noted Oyéjidé as one of the best-dressed men in the United States.
Walé Oyéjidé | Speaker | TED.com