TEDGlobal 2009
Carolyn Steel: How food shapes our cities
Carolyn Steel: Hvordan mad former vores byer
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I en by på størrelse med London serveres der hver dag 30 millioner måltider. Men hvor kommer al maden fra? Arkitekten Carolyn Steel diskuterer, hvordan byer på mirakuløs vis forsynes med mad hver dag, og viser os hvordan de gamle madruter har formet den moderne verden.
Carolyn Steel - Food urbanist
Food is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved. Full bio
Food is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
How do you feed a city?
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Hvordan forsyner man en by med mad?
00:16
It's one of the great questions of our time.
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Det er et af vor tids største spørgsmål.
00:18
Yet it's one that's rarely asked.
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Og alligevel stilles det kun sjældent.
00:20
We take it for granted that if we go into a shop
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Vi tager det for givet, at hvis vi går ind i en butik
00:23
or restaurant, or indeed into this theater's foyer in about an hour's time,
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en restaurant, ja selv ind i dette teaters foyer om en time,
00:27
there is going to be food there waiting for us,
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ja, så står der nok noget mad og venter på os
00:30
having magically come from somewhere.
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som om det på magisk vis er blevet tryllet frem.
00:32
But when you think that every day for a city the size of London,
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Men når man tager i betragtning, at der hver dag i en by på størrelse med London
00:37
enough food has to be produced,
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skal produceres nok mad, og at maden også skal
00:40
transported, bought and sold,
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transporteres, købes, sælges,
00:43
cooked, eaten, disposed of,
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tilberedes, spises og smides ud,
00:47
and that something similar has to happen every day
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og at det samme skal foregå hver dag
00:49
for every city on earth,
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i hver by på jorden
00:51
it's remarkable that cities get fed at all.
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ja, så er det imponerende, at byerne overhovedet kan forsynes.
00:54
We live in places like this as if
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Alligevel bor vi sådanne steder som om
00:56
they're the most natural things in the world,
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det er den mest naturlige ting i verden,
00:59
forgetting that because we're animals
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og vi glemmer at vi, fordi vi er dyr
01:01
and that we need to eat,
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og har brug for at spise
01:03
we're actually as dependent on the natural world
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faktisk er ligeså afhængige af den naturlige verden
01:07
as our ancient ancestors were.
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som vores forfædre var.
01:09
And as more of us move into cities,
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Og i takt med at flere af os flytter til byen,
01:11
more of that natural world is being
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bliver mere og mere af den naturlige verden
01:14
transformed into extraordinary landscapes like the one behind me --
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lavet om til unaturlige landskaber, som det I ser bag mig,
01:17
it's soybean fields in Mato Grosso in Brazil --
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nemlig en sojabønnemark i Matta Grosso i Brasilien,
01:20
in order to feed us.
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fordi vi skal fodres.
01:23
These are extraordinary landscapes,
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Landskaber som disse er unaturlige.
01:25
but few of us ever get to see them.
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Men kun få af os vil nogensinde komme til at se dem.
01:27
And increasingly these landscapes
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Og i stigende grad kommer disse landskaber
01:29
are not just feeding us either.
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til ikke kun at forsyne os.
01:31
As more of us move into cities,
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Som flere og flere af os flytter til storbyen,
01:33
more of us are eating meat,
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spiser vi også mere kød,
01:35
so that a third of the annual grain crop globally
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og på den måde går en tredjedel af verdens kornafgrøder
01:38
now gets fed to animals
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til at fodre dyr
01:40
rather than to us human animals.
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i stedet for mennesker.
01:42
And given that it takes three times as much grain --
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Forudsat, at det kræver tre gange så meget korn -
01:46
actually ten times as much grain --
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ja faktisk ti gange så meget korn -
01:48
to feed a human if it's passed through an animal first,
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at fodre et menneske, hvis kornet først skal blive til kød igennem et dyr,
01:51
that's not a very efficient way of feeding us.
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så er det ikke nogen effektiv måde at forsyne os på.
01:56
And it's an escalating problem too.
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Samtidig er det et voksende problem.
01:58
By 2050, it's estimated that twice the number
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Man regner med, at der i 2050 vil være dobbelt så mange
02:01
of us are going to be living in cities.
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mennesker, der kommer til at bo i byer.
02:03
And it's also estimated that there is going to be twice as much
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Man regner også med, at vi vil forbruge dobbelt så mange
02:05
meat and dairy consumed.
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kød- og mejeriprodukter.
02:07
So meat and urbanism are rising hand in hand.
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Kød og urbanisering følges altså ad.
02:12
And that's going to pose an enormous problem.
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Og det kommer til at blive et enormt problem.
02:14
Six billion hungry carnivores to feed,
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6 milliarder sultne kødædere
02:17
by 2050.
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vil vi skulle forsyne i 2050.
02:21
That's a big problem. And actually if we carry on as we are,
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Det er et stort problem. Og hvis vi bliver ved med at opføre os som vi gør nu,
02:23
it's a problem we're very unlikely to be able to solve.
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bliver det et problem, som vi sandsynligvis ikke vil kunne løse.
02:26
Nineteen million hectares of rainforest are lost every year
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Hvert år går 19 millioner hektar regnskov tabt
02:30
to create new arable land.
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for at skabe nye landbrugsområder.
02:32
Although at the same time we're losing an equivalent amount
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Også selvom vi på samme tid mister samme mængder
02:35
of existing arables to salinization and erosion.
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landbrugsjord på grund af sanilisering og erosion.
02:39
We're very hungry for fossil fuels too.
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Desuden er vi vilde med fossile brændstoffer.
02:42
It takes about 10 calories to produce every calorie
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Det kræver cirka 10 kalorier at producere hver kalorie
02:45
of food that we consume in the West.
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i den mad vi spiser i Vesten.
02:49
And even though there is food that we are producing at great cost,
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Og selvom der er mad, som vi producerer under store omkostninger,
02:53
we don't actually value it.
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sætter vi ikke pris på det.
02:55
Half the food produced in the USA is currently thrown away.
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Halvdelen af den mad, der produceres i USA, smides væk.
02:59
And to end all of this, at the end of this long process,
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Og dette sker samtidig med, at vi i sidste ende
03:02
we're not even managing to feed the planet properly.
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ikke engang er i stand til at give alle mennesker på jorden mad.
03:05
A billion of us are obese, while a further billion starve.
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En milliard af os er overvægtige, mens en anden milliard sulter.
03:10
None of it makes very much sense.
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Der er ikke meget af dette, der giver mening.
03:12
And when you think that 80 percent of global trade in food now
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Når man samtidig tænker på, at 80 procent af den globale fødevarehandel
03:15
is controlled by just five multinational corporations,
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i dag kontrolleres af kun fem multinationale selskaber,
03:20
it's a grim picture.
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tegner der sig et grimt billede.
03:22
As we're moving into cities, the world is also embracing a Western diet.
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I takt med, at vi flytter ind i byerne, tager verden den vestlige kost til sig.
03:25
And if we look to the future,
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Og set med fremtidens briller
03:28
it's an unsustainable diet.
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er det ikke en bæredygtig kost.
03:30
So how did we get here?
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Så hvordan gik det sådan til?
03:32
And more importantly, what are we going to do about it?
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Og, hvad der er mere vigtigt, hvad skal vi gøre ved det?
03:35
Well, to answer the slightly easier question first,
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For nu at starte med det lettere spørgsmål først,
03:39
about 10,000 years ago, I would say,
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vil jeg sige, at processen begyndte
03:41
is the beginning of this process
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for ca. 10.000 år siden.
03:43
in the ancient Near East,
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I den gamle nære orient,
03:45
known as the Fertile Crescent.
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kendt som den Frugtbare Halvmåne.
03:47
Because, as you can see, it was crescent shaped.
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For, som I kan se, var området formet som en halvmåne.
03:49
And it was also fertile.
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Det var også meget frodigt.
03:51
And it was here, about 10,000 years ago,
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Og det var her, at der for ca. 10.000 år siden
03:54
that two extraordinary inventions,
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opstod to helt ekstraordinære ting,
03:56
agriculture and urbanism, happened
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landbrug og urbanisering,
03:59
roughly in the same place and at the same time.
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og det skete omtrent samtidigt og det samme sted.
04:02
This is no accident,
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Det er ikke et tilfælde.
04:04
because agriculture and cities are bound together. They need each other.
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Landbrug og byer er nemlig forbundne. De har brug for hinanden.
04:08
Because it was discovery of grain
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Det skyldes, at da vores forfædre
04:10
by our ancient ancestors for the first time
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opdagede korn, skabte det for første gang
04:13
that produced a food source that was large enough
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en fødevareressource, der var stor
04:16
and stable enough to support permanent settlements.
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og stabil nok til at understøtte faste bosættelser.
04:20
And if we look at what those settlements were like,
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Og hvis vi kigger nærmere på, hvilke slags bosættelser det var,
04:22
we see they were compact.
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kan vi konkludere, at de var kompakte.
04:24
They were surrounded by productive farm land
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De var omgivet af landbrugsjord
04:26
and dominated by large temple complexes
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og domineret af store tempelbygninger,
04:29
like this one at Ur,
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som den her ved Ur,
04:31
that were, in fact, effectively,
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der faktisk fungerede som
04:33
spiritualized, central food distribution centers.
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hellige distributionscentre til mad,
04:36
Because it was the temples that organized the harvest,
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eftersom det var templerne, der organiserede høsten,
04:39
gathered in the grain, offered it to the gods,
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samlede kornet, tilbød det til guderne
04:41
and then offered the grain that the gods didn't eat back to the people.
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og til sidst tilbød det korn, som guderne ikke spiste, til folket.
04:45
So, if you like,
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Så på den måde
04:47
the whole spiritual and physical life of these cities
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var byernes spirituelle og fysiske liv
04:49
was dominated by the grain and the harvest
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domineret af det korn og den høst,
04:52
that sustained them.
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der holdt dem i live.
04:55
And in fact, that's true of every ancient city.
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Og det er faktisk tilfældet for enhver by i oldtiden.
04:58
But of course not all of them were that small.
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Men selvfølgelig var de ikke allesammen så små.
05:00
Famously, Rome had about a million citizens
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Det berømte eksempel er Rom, som havde omkring en million indbyggere
05:03
by the first century A.D.
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ved det første århundrede efter Kristi fødsel.
05:05
So how did a city like this feed itself?
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Så hvordan kunne en by som Rom forsyne sine indbyggere?
05:09
The answer is what I call "ancient food miles."
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Svaret er ved hjælp af hvad jeg kalder "oldtidens mad-mil".
05:12
Basically, Rome had access to the sea,
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Rom havde adgang til havet,
05:15
which made it possible for it to import food from a very long way away.
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hvilket gjorde det muligt at importere mad langvejs fra.
05:18
This is the only way it was possible to do this in the ancient world,
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Det var den eneste måde man kunne gøre det på dengang,
05:21
because it was very difficult to transport food over roads,
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for det var meget besværligt at transportere mad på veje,
05:24
which were rough.
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der var i dårlig stand.
05:26
And the food obviously went off very quickly.
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Og maden forsvandt hurtigt.
05:28
So Rome effectively waged war
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Så Rom førte krig
05:30
on places like Carthage and Egypt
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mod steder som Karthago og Egypten
05:33
just to get its paws on their grain reserves.
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bare for at få adgang til deres kornreserver
05:35
And, in fact, you could say that the expansion of the Empire
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Faktisk kan man sige, at ekspansionen af det Romerske Imperium
05:38
was really sort of one long, drawn out
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var en slags langtrukken
05:41
militarized shopping spree, really.
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og militariseret hamstring af mad.
05:43
(Laughter)
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(latter)
05:45
In fact -- I love the fact, I just have to mention this:
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Ja, faktisk - og jeg elsker det faktum, jeg bliver lige nødt til at nævne det:
05:47
Rome in fact used to import oysters from London,
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Rom importerede østers fra England
05:50
at one stage. I think that's extraordinary.
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på et tidspunkt. Det synes jeg er utroligt.
05:52
So Rome shaped its hinterland
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Så Rom formede dets bagland
05:55
through its appetite.
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gennem byens appetit.
05:57
But the interesting thing is that the other thing also
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Men det interessante er, at det andet også skete
05:59
happened in the pre-industrial world.
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i den før-indistruelle verden.
06:01
If we look at a map of London in the 17th century,
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Hvis vi kigger på et kort over London i det 17. århundrede,
06:04
we can see that its grain, which is coming in from the Thames,
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kan vi se, at det er korn, der kommer ind med Themsen,
06:07
along the bottom of this map.
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her nederst på kortet.
06:09
So the grain markets were to the south of the city.
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Kornmarkederne lå syd for byen.
06:12
And the roads leading up from them
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Og vejene, der førte derfra og op
06:14
to Cheapside, which was the main market,
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til Cheapside, som var det største marked,
06:16
were also grain markets.
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var også markeder i sig selv.
06:18
And if you look at the name of one of those streets,
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Og hvis I kigger på vejenes navne,
06:20
Bread Street, you can tell
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Bread Street, for eksempel, kan man se
06:23
what was going on there 300 years ago.
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hvad der skete dér for 300 år siden.
06:26
And the same of course was true for fish.
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Det samme var tilfældet når vi taler om fisk.
06:28
Fish was, of course, coming in by river as well. Same thing.
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Fisk kom selvfølgelig også ind med floden. Så det er det samme.
06:31
And of course Billingsgate, famously, was London's fish market,
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Og selvfølgelig var Billingsgate, som bekendt, Londons fiskemarked,
06:34
operating on-site here until the mid-1980s.
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som lå her op til midten af 1980'erne.
06:38
Which is extraordinary, really, when you think about it.
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Hvilket faktisk er fantastisk, når man tænker over det.
06:40
Everybody else was wandering around
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Alle andre gik rundt
06:42
with mobile phones that looked like bricks
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med mobiltelefoner på størrelse med mursten,
06:44
and sort of smelly fish happening down on the port.
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og så var der sådan en sær lugtende fiske-bazar nede ved havnen.
06:47
This is another thing about food in cities:
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Og det fører os til noget andet, når vi nu taler om mad i byerne.
06:50
Once its roots into the city are established,
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Så snart madens veje ind til byen er blevet etableret,
06:53
they very rarely move.
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så flytter de sig sjældent.
06:55
Meat is a very different story
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Men med kød er det noget helt andet
06:57
because, of course, animals could walk into the city.
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for dyr kunne, selvfølgelig, gå ind i byen.
06:59
So much of London's meat
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Så meget af Londons kød
07:01
was coming from the northwest,
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kom til byen fra nordvest,
07:03
from Scotland and Wales.
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fra Skotland og Wales.
07:05
So it was coming in, and arriving at the city at the northwest,
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Så det kom altså til byen i nordvest,
07:08
which is why Smithfield,
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hvilket er grunden til, at Smithfield,
07:10
London's very famous meat market, was located up there.
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Londons berømte kødmarked, lå deroppe.
07:13
Poultry was coming in from East Anglia and so on, to the northeast.
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Fjerkræ kom fra East Anglia og andre områder mod nordøst.
07:17
I feel a bit like a weather woman doing this. Anyway,
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Jeg føler mig lidt som en vejrpige, når jeg gør det her. Men alligevel.
07:18
and so the birds were coming in
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Så fuglene kom altså til byen
07:22
with their feet protected with little canvas shoes.
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med deres fødder beskyttet i små lærredssko.
07:25
And then when they hit the eastern end
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Og lige så snart de ankom til den østlige del
07:27
of Cheapside, that's where they were sold,
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af Cheapside, blev de solgt.
07:29
which is why it's called Poultry.
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Det er derfor, det på engelsk kaldes poultry.
07:31
And, in fact, if you look at the map of any city
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Hvis man ser på et kort over en hvilken som helst by
07:34
built before the industrial age,
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som er bygget i den før-indistruelle tid,
07:38
you can trace food coming in to it.
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kan man spore madvejene.
07:40
You can actually see how it was physically shaped by food,
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Ja, man kan faktisk se, hvordan byerne fysisk er formet efter mad,
07:43
both by reading the names of the streets, which give you a lot of clues.
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ved at læse gadenavnene, der ofte er meget sigende.
07:46
Friday Street, in a previous life,
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Friday Street - fredagsgade - var i tidligere tider dér
07:48
is where you went to buy your fish on a Friday.
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hvor man gik hen for at købe fisk om fredagen.
07:50
But also you have to imagine it full of food.
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Men man skal også prøve at forestille sig byen fuld af mad.
07:52
Because the streets and the public spaces
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Fordi gaderne og de åbne offentlige pladser
07:55
were the only places where food was bought and sold.
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var de eneste steder, hvor mad blev købt og solgt.
07:58
And if we look at an image of Smithfield in 1830
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Og hvis vi betragter et billede af Smithfield i 1830,
08:01
you can see that it would have been very difficult to live in a city like this
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kan man se, at det ville have været meget svært at bo i sådan en by,
08:04
and be unaware of where your food came from.
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hvis man ikke vidste, hvor maden kom fra.
08:06
In fact, if you were having Sunday lunch,
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Hvis man skulle holde søndagsfrokost,
08:08
the chances were it was mooing or bleating outside your window
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var der gode chancer for, at ens frokost havde stået og muh'et uden for ens vindue
08:10
about three days earlier.
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omkring tre dage tidligere.
08:12
So this was obviously an organic city,
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Så det var altså en organisk by,
08:15
part of an organic cycle.
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en del af en organisk cyklus.
08:18
And then 10 years later everything changed.
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Men ikke mere end 10 år senere ændrede alt sig.
08:21
This is an image of the Great Western in 1840.
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Dette er et billede af den Store Vestlige Jernbane i 1840.
08:24
And as you can see, some of the earliest train passengers
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Og som man ser, var nogle af de første jernbanepassagerer
08:26
were pigs and sheep.
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grise og får.
08:28
So all of a sudden, these animals are no longer walking into market.
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Det betød, at dyrene pludselig ikke længere gik ind til markedet.
08:32
They're being slaughtered out of sight and mind,
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De blev slagtet et sted, hvor man ikke så dem,
08:34
somewhere in the countryside.
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ude på landet.
08:36
And they're coming into the city by rail.
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Og så kom de ind til byen med toget.
08:38
And this changes everything.
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Det ændrer selvfølgelig alt.
08:41
To start off with, it makes it possible
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For det første muliggjorde det
08:43
for the first time to grow cities,
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at man kunne bygge byer
08:44
really any size and shape, in any place.
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af hvilken som helst størrelse og form, på et hvilket som helst sted.
08:46
Cities used to be constrained by geography;
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Engang var byer begrænset af geografiske omstændigheder:
08:50
they used to have to get their food through very difficult physical means.
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man skulle skaffe maden på meget besværlige måder.
08:53
All of a sudden they are effectively emancipated from geography.
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Men pludseligt blev byerne i realiteten sat fri fra geografien.
08:57
And as you can see from these maps of London,
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Som man ser på disse kort over London,
09:00
in the 90 years after the trains came,
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i de 90 år der passerede efter togene kom,
09:02
it goes from being a little blob that was quite easy to feed
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gik byen fra at være en lille forsamling, som nemt lod sig forsyne
09:06
by animals coming in on foot, and so on,
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af dyr der gik ind til byen osv.
09:08
to a large splurge,
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til at blive en enorm størrelse,
09:10
that would be very, very difficult to feed with anybody on foot,
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som det ville være meget svært at understøtte med de tidligere og mere
09:13
either animals or people.
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primitive transportmidler.
09:16
And of course that was just the beginning. After the trains came cars,
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Og det var selvfølgelig kun begyndelsen. Efter togene kom bilerne.
09:19
and really this marks the end of this process.
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Og bilernes komme markerer afslutningen på denne proces.
09:23
It's the final emancipation of the city
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Det er den sidste frigørelse af byen
09:25
from any apparent relationship with nature at all.
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fra enhver form for forhold til naturen.
09:28
And this is the kind of city that's devoid of smell,
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En by, der karakteriseres af manglende lugte,
09:31
devoid of mess, certainly devoid of people,
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manglende rod, og helt sikker også af manglende mennesker.
09:33
because nobody would have dreamed of walking in such a landscape.
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For ingen ville have drømt om at kunne gå rundt i sådan et landskab.
09:36
In fact, what they did to get food was they got in their cars,
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Hvad folk begyndte at gøre for at få mad, var at sætte sig ind i deres biler,
09:39
drove to a box somewhere on the outskirts,
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køre til en kasse et sted i kanten af byen,
09:42
came back with a week's worth of shopping,
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komme tilbage med varer til en uge,
09:44
and wondered what on earth to do with it.
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og gruble over, hvad man skulle gøre med dem.
09:46
And this really is the moment when our relationship,
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Og det er altså det øjeblik, hvor vores forhold til
09:49
both with food and cities, changes completely.
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såvel byer som mad ændrede sig fuldstændigt.
09:52
Here we have food -- that used to be the center,
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Nu har vi maden - som engang var midtpunkt og
09:55
the social core of the city -- at the periphery.
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den sociale kerne af byen - i periferien.
09:58
It used to be a social event, buying and selling food.
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Engang var det en social sag at købe og sælge mad.
10:00
Now it's anonymous.
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I dag er det anonymt.
10:02
We used to cook; now we just add water,
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Engang lavede vi mad; nu tilsætter vi bare vand,
10:04
or a little bit of an egg if you're making a cake or something.
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eller lidt æg, hvis man er igang med at bage en kage.
10:09
We don't smell food to see if it's okay to eat.
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Vi lugter ikke længere til maden for at se om den er frisk nok.
10:13
We just read the back of a label on a packet.
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Vi læser bare på bagsiden af pakken.
10:16
And we don't value food. We don't trust it.
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Vi værdsætter ikke mad. Vi stoler ikke på det.
10:19
So instead of trusting it, we fear it.
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Så i stedet for at tro på maden, frygter vi den.
10:21
And instead of valuing it, we throw it away.
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Og i stedet for at sætte pris på den, smider vi den væk.
10:25
One of the great ironies of modern food systems
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Og et af de helt store paradokser ved de moderne mad-systemer,
10:28
is that they've made the very thing they promised
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er, at de har lavet lige præcist det, som de lovede
10:30
to make easier much harder.
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at gøre nemmere, meget sværere.
10:32
By making it possible to build cities anywhere and any place,
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Ved at gøre det muligt at bygge byer hvor som helst,
10:36
they've actually distanced us from our most important relationship,
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har de lagt afstand imellem os og vores mest vigtige venskab,
10:40
which is that of us and nature.
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netop det mellem os og naturen.
10:43
And also they've made us dependent on systems that only they can deliver,
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Derudover har mad-systemerne gjort os afhængige af mad, som kun de kan levere,
10:46
that, as we've seen, are unsustainable.
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og, som vi har set, er uholdbare.
10:48
So what are we going to do about that?
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Så hvad skal vi gøre ved det?
10:51
It's not a new question.
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Det er ikke noget nyt spørgsmål.
10:53
500 years ago it's what Thomas More was asking himself.
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For 500 år siden stillede Thomas More sig det selv samme spørgsmål.
10:57
This is the frontispiece of his book "Utopia."
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Dette er forsiden på hans bog "Utopia".
11:00
And it was a series of semi-independent city-states,
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Det var en række af halvt uafhængige bystater,
11:03
if that sounds remotely familiar,
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hvis det lyder bare en smule bekendt,
11:05
a day's walk from one another where everyone was basically farming-mad,
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der lå en dags gang fra hinanden, og hvor alle var vilde med landbrug,
11:08
and grew vegetables in their back gardens,
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dyrkede grøntsager i deres baghaver,
11:10
and ate communal meals together, and so on.
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og spiste fælles-måltider sammen, og så videre.
11:12
And I think you could argue that
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Jeg tror godt, man kan argumentere for,
11:14
food is a fundamental ordering principle of Utopia,
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at mad er det grundlæggende ordens-princip i Utopia.
11:17
even though More never framed it that way.
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Selvom More aldrig sagde det på den måde.
11:20
And here is another very famous "Utopian" vision,
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En anden meget berømt "utopisk" vision,
11:23
that of Ebenezer Howard, "The Garden City."
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er Ebenezer Howards "Havebyen".
11:25
Same idea: series of semi-independent city-states,
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Det er samme ide. En række semi-uafhængige bystater,
11:28
little blobs of metropolitan stuff with arable land around,
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små enklaver af byliv med opdyrkeligt land omkring,
11:32
joined to one another by railway.
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forbundne til hinanden med jernbaner.
11:34
And again, food could be said to be
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Også her kan mad siges at være
11:36
the ordering principle of his vision.
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det grundlæggende ordens-princip i hans vision.
11:39
It even got built, but nothing to do with
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Det blev endda bygget, selvom det ikke havde noget at gøre
11:41
this vision that Howard had.
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med den vision, Howard havde.
11:43
And that is the problem with these Utopian ideas,
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Netop dét er problemet med de utopiske ideer:
11:46
that they are Utopian.
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de er utopiske.
11:48
Utopia was actually a word that Thomas Moore used deliberately.
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Thomas More brugte faktisk ordet Utopia med vilje.
11:51
It was a kind of joke, because it's got a double derivation from the Greek.
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Det var en slags joke. Fordi det kommer fra to forskellige betydninger på græsk.
11:55
It can either mean a good place, or no place.
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Det kan både betyde et dejligt sted, og intet sted.
11:57
Because it's an ideal. It's an imaginary thing. We can't have it.
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For det er et ideal. Det er en fantasi. Vi kan ikke opnå det.
12:01
And I think, as a conceptual tool
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Og jeg tror derfor, at det, som et redskab
12:03
for thinking about the very deep problem of human dwelling,
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til at analysere de grundlæggende problemer i menneskers bosættelser,
12:06
that makes it not much use.
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ikke er meget bevendt.
12:08
So I've come up with an alternative,
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Derfor har jeg fundet på et alternativ,
12:11
which is Sitopia, from the ancient Greek,
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det hedder Sitopia, fra de oldgræske ord
12:14
"sitos" for food, and "topos" for place.
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"sitos", der betyder mad, og "topos", der betyder sted.
12:16
I believe we already live in Sitopia.
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Jeg tror, at vi allerede bor i Sitopia.
12:18
We live in a world shaped by food,
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Vi lever i en verden, som er formet af mad,
12:21
and if we realize that, we can use food as a really powerful tool --
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og hvis vi indser det, kan vi bruge mad som et stærkt redskab -
12:24
a conceptual tool, design tool, to shape the world differently.
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- et slags skabende redskab, så vi kan forme verden anderledes.
12:28
So if we were to do that, what might Sitopia look like?
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Hvis vi nu gjorde det, hvordan ville Sitopia så komme til at se ud?
12:33
Well I think it looks a bit like this.
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Jeg tror, det kommer til at se sådan her ud.
12:35
I have to use this slide. It's just the look on the face of the dog.
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Og jeg bliver nødt til at bruge det her billede. Bare på grund af hundens ansigtsudtryk.
12:37
But anyway, this is -- (Laughter)
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Men altså, det er - (latter)
12:40
it's food at the center of life,
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det er mad som midtpunktet for livet,
12:42
at the center of family life, being celebrated,
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som midtpunktet i familielivet, mad som fejres,
12:44
being enjoyed, people taking time for it.
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nydes, og sættes tid af til.
12:46
This is where food should be in our society.
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Sådan skulle madens plads i vores samfund være.
12:49
But you can't have scenes like this unless you have people like this.
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Men sådan nogle scener eksisterer kun med sådan nogle mennesker.
12:54
By the way, these can be men as well.
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De kan, forresten, også godt være mænd.
12:56
It's people who think about food,
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Det er folk, der tænker på og om mad,
12:59
who think ahead, who plan,
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som tænker forud, som planlægger,
13:01
who can stare at a pile of raw vegetables
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som kan kigge på en bunke rå grøntsager
13:03
and actually recognize them.
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og se, hvad der er hvad.
13:05
We need these people. We're part of a network.
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Vi har brug for den slags mennesker. Vi er en del af et netværk.
13:08
Because without these kinds of people we can't have places like this.
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Fordi uden disse mennesker, kan vi ikke have sådan nogle steder.
13:11
Here, I deliberately chose this because it is a man buying a vegetable.
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Jeg valgte det her billede med vilje, fordi det er en mand der køber en grøntsag.
13:14
But networks, markets where food is being grown locally.
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Netværk, markeder hvor mad dyrkes lokalt.
13:18
It's common. It's fresh.
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Det er fælles. Det er friskt.
13:20
It's part of the social life of the city.
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Og det er en del af byens sociale liv.
13:22
Because without that, you can't have this kind of place,
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For uden det, kan man ikke have den slags steder.
13:25
food that is grown locally and also is part of the landscape,
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Mad, der er dyrket lokalt og også er en del af landskabet,
13:28
and is not just a zero-sum commodity
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og ikke bare en ligegyldig vare,
13:30
off in some unseen hell-hole.
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på et ligegyldigt sted.
13:32
Cows with a view.
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Køer med udsigt.
13:34
Steaming piles of humus.
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Dampende mængder af kompost.
13:36
This is basically bringing the whole thing together.
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Det samler det hele.
13:39
And this is a community project
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Og det her er et fælleskabsprojekt,
13:41
I visited recently in Toronto.
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som jeg for nyligt besøgte i Toronto.
13:43
It's a greenhouse, where kids get told
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Det er et drivhus, hvor børnene lærer
13:45
all about food and growing their own food.
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alt om mad og om at dyrke det.
13:48
Here is a plant called Kevin, or maybe it's a
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Her er der en plante ved navn Kevin, eller måske
13:51
plant belonging to a kid called Kevin. I don't know.
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er det Kevins plante. Jeg ved det ikke.
13:53
But anyway, these kinds of projects
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I hvert fald er den her slags projekter,
13:56
that are trying to reconnect us with nature is extremely important.
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der forsøger at genskabe en forbindelse mellem os og naturen, ekstremt vigtige.
14:00
So Sitopia, for me, is really a way of seeing.
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Så for mig er Sitopia en slags måde at se på.
14:02
It's basically recognizing that Sitopia
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Det handler bare om at se, at Sitopia
14:06
already exists in little pockets everywhere.
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faktisk eksisterer rundt omkring.
14:08
The trick is to join them up,
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Det handler bare om at være med,
14:10
to use food as a way of seeing.
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om at se verden gennem maden.
14:13
And if we do that, we're going to stop seeing cities
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Og hvis vi gør det, kommer vi ikke længere til at se byer
14:16
as big, metropolitan, unproductive blobs, like this.
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som store og uproduktive metropoler under osteklokker som denne.
14:19
We're going to see them more like this,
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Vi kommer til at se flere byer som denne her,
14:21
as part of the productive, organic framework
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som bestanddele i en produktiv organisk netværk,
14:24
of which they are inevitably a part,
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som de er en nødvendig del af,
14:26
symbiotically connected.
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symbiotisk forbundne.
14:28
But of course, that's not a great image either,
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Men det er selvfølgelig heller ikke noget perfekt billede.
14:30
because we need not to be producing food like this anymore.
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For vi har ikke brug for at producere mad på den måde længere.
14:33
We need to be thinking more about permaculture,
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Vi bliver nødt til at tænke mere på permakultur.
14:35
which is why I think this image just
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Og det er grunden til, at jeg synes det her billede
14:37
sums up for me the kind of thinking we need to be doing.
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opsummerer, hvordan vi skal tænke fremover.
14:39
It's a re-conceptualization
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Det er en ny måde at opfatte måden,
14:41
of the way food shapes our lives.
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hvorpå mad former vores liv.
14:44
The best image I know of this is from 650 years ago.
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Det bedste billede jeg kender er fra 650 år siden.
14:47
It's Ambrogio Lorenzetti's "Allegory of Good Government."
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Det er Ambrogio Lorenzetti's "Allegori på det Gode Styre".
14:50
It's about the relationship between the city and the countryside.
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Det handler om forholdet mellem by og land.
14:53
And I think the message of this is very clear.
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Og jeg tror, at budskabet her er meget klart.
14:56
If the city looks after the country,
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Hvis byen passer på landet,
14:58
the country will look after the city.
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så passer landet også på byen.
15:00
And I want us to ask now,
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Og nu vil jeg spørge om,
15:02
what would Ambrogio Lorenzetti paint
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hvad Ambrogio Lorenzetti ville male,
15:05
if he painted this image today?
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hvis han skulle male dette billede i dag.
15:07
What would an allegory of good government look like today?
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Hvordan ville en allegori på et godt styre se ud idag?
15:10
Because I think it's an urgent question.
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For jeg tror, at det er et vigtigt spørgsmål.
15:12
It's one we have to ask,
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Et, som vi bliver nødt til at stille,
15:14
and we have to start answering.
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og også bliver nødt til at finde et svar på.
15:16
We know we are what we eat.
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Vi ved, at vi er hvad vi spiser.
15:19
We need to realize that the world is also what we eat.
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Vi bliver nødt til at indse, at verden også er hvad vi spiser.
15:21
But if we take that idea, we can use food
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Men hvis vi tager fat på den ide, kan vi bruge maden
15:23
as a really powerful tool to shape the world better.
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som et virkelig stærkt værktøj til at gøre vores verden bedre.
15:27
Thank you very much.
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Mange tak.
15:29
(Applause)
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(Bifald)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Carolyn Steel - Food urbanistFood is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved.
Why you should listen
The question of how to feed cities may be one of the biggest contemporary questions, yet it's never asked: we take for granted that if we walk into a store or a restaurant, food will be there, magically coming from somewhere. Yet, think of it this way: just in London, every single day, 30 million meals must be provided. Without a reliable food supply, even the most modern city would collapse quickly. And most people today eat food of whose provenance they are unaware.
Architect and author Carolyn Steel uses food as a medium to "read" cities and understand how they work. In her book Hungry City she traces -- and puts into historical context -- food's journey from land to urban table and thence to sewer. Cities, like people, are what they eat.
Carolyn Steel | Speaker | TED.com