TED2011
Nathan Myhrvold: Cooking as never seen before
Nathan Myhrvold: Kuhanje kakvo nikada prije nije viđeno
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Autor kuharice (i štreber) Nathan Myhrvold priča o svom diktatorskom radu, "Modernistička kuhinja" -- i dijeli tajnu svojih cool fotografskih ilustracija, koje prikazuju križanje hrane u samom činu kuhanja.
Nathan Myhrvold - Polymath
Nathan Myhrvold is a professional jack-of-all-trades. After leaving Microsoft in 1999, he's been a world barbecue champion, a wildlife photographer, a chef, a contributor to SETI, and a volcano explorer. Full bio
Nathan Myhrvold is a professional jack-of-all-trades. After leaving Microsoft in 1999, he's been a world barbecue champion, a wildlife photographer, a chef, a contributor to SETI, and a volcano explorer. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
So I'm going to tell you a little bit
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Dakle, pričat ću vam malo
00:17
about reimagining food.
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o ponovnom osmišljavanju hrane.
00:19
I've been interested in food for a long time.
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Interesira me hrana već duže vrijeme.
00:21
I taught myself to cook
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Naučio sam kuhati
00:23
with a bunch of big books like this.
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pomoću hrpe velikih knjiga poput ove.
00:25
I went to chef school in France.
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Otišao sam u školu za kuhare u Francuskoj.
00:28
And there is a way
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I postoji način
00:30
the world both envisions food,
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na koji svijet i zamišlja hranu,
00:32
the way the world writes about food and learns about food.
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način na koji svijet piše o hrani i uči o hrani.
00:35
And it's largely what you would find in these books.
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A to je većinom ono što biste našli u tim knjigama.
00:38
And it's a wonderful thing.
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I to je prekrasna stvar.
00:40
But there's some things that have been going on
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Ali događaju se neke stvari
00:42
since this idea of food was established.
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otkada je ideja hrane postavljena.
00:45
In the last 20 years,
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U posljednjih 20 godina,
00:47
people have realized that science
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ljudi su shvatili kako je znanost
00:49
has a tremendous amount to do with food.
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jako povezana s hranom.
00:51
In fact, understanding why cooking works
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Zapravo, shvaćanje zašto kuhanje funkcionira,
00:54
requires knowing the science of cooking --
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zahtjeva znanje o znanosti kuhanja --
00:56
some of the chemistry, some of the physics and so forth.
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nešto kemije, nešto fizike i tako dalje.
00:59
But that's not in any of those books.
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Ali to nije u nijednoj od ovih knjiga.
01:01
There's also a tremendous number of techniques
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Postoji ujedno i ogroman broj tehnika
01:03
that chefs have developed,
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koje su kuhari razvili,
01:05
some about new aesthetics, new approaches to food.
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neke o novoj estetici, neke nove pristupe hrani.
01:08
There's a chef in Spain named Ferran Adria.
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Postoji kuhar u Španjolskoj zvan Ferran Adria.
01:11
He's developed a very avant-garde cuisine.
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On je razvio veoma avangardnu kuhinju;
01:13
A guy in England called Heston Blumenthal,
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čovjek u Engleskoj zvan Heston Blumenthal,
01:16
he's developed his avant-garde cuisine.
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on je razvio svoju avangardnu kuhinju.
01:18
None of the techniques that these people have developed
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Nijedna od tih tehnika koju su ti ljudi razvili
01:20
over the course of the last 20 years
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u posljednjih 20 godina
01:22
is in any of those books.
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nije u ijednoj od ovih knjiga.
01:24
None of them are taught in cooking schools.
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Nijedna od njih se ne podučava u kuharskim školama.
01:26
In order to learn them, you have to go work in those restaurants.
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Ukoliko ih želite naučiti, morate otići raditi u te restorane.
01:29
And finally,
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I na kraju,
01:31
there's the old way of viewing food
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postoji stari način gledanja hrane
01:33
is the old way.
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i to je stari način.
01:35
And so a few years ago -- fours years ago, actually --
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I stoga prije nekoliko godina -- zapravo, prije četiri godine --
01:38
I set out to say, is there a way
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otišao sam kako bih otkrio, postoji li način
01:40
we can communicate science and technique and wonder?
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na koji možemo komunicirati znanost i tehniku i čudo?
01:44
Is there a way we can show people food
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Postoji li način na koji možemo pokazati hranu ljudima
01:46
in a way they have not seen it before?
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na koji je oni još nikada prije nisu vidjeli?
01:48
So we tried, and I'll show you what we came up with.
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Stoga smo pokušali i pokazati ću vam do čega smo došli.
01:51
This is a picture called a cutaway.
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Ova slika je zvana raščišćivanje.
01:54
This is actually the first picture I took in the book.
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Ovo je zapravo prva slika koju sam snimio u knjizi.
01:56
The idea here is to explain what happens
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Ideja je ovdje objasniti što se događa
01:58
when you steam broccoli.
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kada parite brokulu.
02:00
And this magic view allows you to see
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A ovaj magičan pogled vam omogućava da vidite
02:02
all of what's happening
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sve što se događa
02:04
while the broccoli steams.
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kada se brokula pari.
02:06
Then each of the different little pieces around it
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Zatim svaki mali različiti komadić oko nje
02:08
explain some fact.
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objašnjava neku činjenicu.
02:10
And the hope was two-fold.
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A nada je bila dvostruka.
02:12
One is you can actually explain what happens when you steam broccoli.
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Prvo možete zapravo objasniti što se događa kada parite brokulu.
02:14
But the other thing is that maybe we could seduce people
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A druga stvar je bila kako možda možemo zavesti ljude
02:17
into stuff that was a little more technical,
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da ih privuku stvari koje su više tehničke,
02:19
maybe a little bit more scientific, maybe a little bit more chef-y
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možda malo znanstvene, možda malo više kuharske
02:22
than they otherwise would have.
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nego što bi to inače bile.
02:24
Because with that beautiful photo,
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Jer s tom prekrasnom fotografijom,
02:26
maybe I can also package this little box here
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možda mogu upakirati i ovu malu kutiju ovdje
02:28
that talks about how steaming and boiling
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koja priča o tome kako parenje i vrenje
02:30
actually take different amounts of time.
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zahtjevaju različito vrijeme.
02:32
Steaming ought to be faster.
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Parenje bi trebalo biti brže.
02:34
It turns out it isn't because of something called film condensation,
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Ispostavlja se kako nije zbog nečega što se zove kondenzacija filma,
02:37
and this explains that.
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a ovo to objašnjava.
02:39
Well, that first cutaway picture worked,
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Dakle, ta prva pročišćena slika je funkcionirala,
02:42
so we said, "Okay, let's do some more."
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stoga smo rekli, "U redu, hajdemo učiniti više."
02:45
So here's another one.
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Stoga je ovdje još jedna.
02:47
We discovered why woks are the shape they are.
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Otkrili smo zašto wokovi imaju oblik koji imaju.
02:50
This shaped wok doesn't work very well;
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Wok ovog oblika ne funkcionira jako dobro;
02:52
this caught fire three times.
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ovo se zapalilo tri puta.
02:54
But we had a philosophy,
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Ali naša filozofija
02:56
which is it only has to look good for a thousandth of a second.
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je govorila kako mora dobro izgledati samo jednu tisućinku sekunde.
02:59
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
03:01
And one of our canning cutaways.
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I jedna od naših konzerviranih pročišćenih slika.
03:03
Once you start cutting things in half, you kind of get carried away,
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Jednom kada počnete rezati stvari napola, nekako se zanesete
03:06
so you see we cut the jars in half as well as the pan.
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pa vidite kako smo izrezali staklenke na pola kao i tavu.
03:09
And each of these text blocks
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A svaki od ovih blokova teksta
03:11
explains a key thing that's going on.
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objašnjava ključnu stvar koja se događa.
03:13
In this case, boiling water canning
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U ovom slučaju, konzerviranje vode koja ključa
03:16
is for canning things that are already pretty acidic.
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je za konzerviranje stvari koje su već prilično kisele.
03:18
You don't have to heat them up as hot
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Ne morate ih jako zagrijati
03:20
as you would something you do pressure canning
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kao što biste zagrijali nešto što je konzervirano pod pritiskom,
03:23
because bacterial spores can't grow in the acid.
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jer spore bakterija ne mogu rasti u kiselini.
03:27
So this is great for pickled vegetables,
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Dakle, to je odlično za ukiseljeno povrće,
03:29
which is what we're canning here.
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što je ono što konzerviramo ovdje.
03:31
Here's our hamburger cutaway.
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Ovdje je naš presjek hamburgera.
03:33
One of our philosophies in the book
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Jedna od naših filozofija u knjizi
03:35
is that no dish
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je kako niti jedno jelo
03:37
is really intrinsically any better than any other dish.
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nije intrinzično išta bolje nego bilo koje drugo jelo.
03:39
So you can lavish
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Dakle, možete usmjeriti
03:41
all the same care, all the same technique,
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istu skrb, istu tehniku
03:44
on a hamburger
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na hamburger
03:46
as you would on some much more fancy dish.
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kao što biste to napravili na puno otmjenijem jelu.
03:48
And if you do lavish as much technique as possible,
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A ukoliko i posvetite tome tehnike koliko je to moguće
03:51
and you try to make the highest quality hamburger,
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i pokušate napraviti hamburger najviše kvalitete,
03:53
it gets to be a little bit involved.
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dolazi se do malenog uključivanja.
03:55
The New York Times ran a piece
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New York Times je objavio članak
03:57
after my book was delayed
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nakon što je objavljivanje moje knjige odgođeno
03:59
and it was called "The Wait for the 30-Hour Hamburger
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i nazvan je "Čekanje za 30 satnim hamburgerom
04:02
Just Got Longer."
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se upravo produžilo".
04:04
Because our hamburger recipe, our ultimate hamburger recipe,
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Jer naš recept za hamburger, naš ultimativni recept za hamburger,
04:07
if you make the buns and you marinate the meat and you do all this stuff,
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ukoliko napravite peciva i marinirate meso i napravite sve te stvari,
04:10
it does take about 30 hours.
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zahtjeva 30 sati.
04:12
Of course, you're not actually working the whole time.
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Naravno, zapravo ne radite cijelo to vrijeme.
04:14
Most of the time is kind of sitting there.
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Većinu vremena samo sjedite tamo.
04:16
The point of this cutaway
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Poanta ovog presjeka
04:18
is to show people a view of hamburgers they haven't seen before
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je pokazati ljudima pogled na hamburgere koje još nikada prije nisu vidjeli
04:20
and to explain the physics of hamburgers
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i objasniti fiziku hamburgera
04:22
and the chemistry of hamburgers,
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i kemiju hamburgera,
04:24
because, believe it or not, there is something to the physics and chemistry --
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jer, vjerovali ili ne, postoji nešto u fizici i kemiji,
04:27
in particular, those flames underneath the burger.
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naročito, ti plamenovi ispod hamburgera.
04:30
Most of the characteristic char-grilled taste
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Većina karakteristika okusa roštilja
04:33
doesn't come from the wood or the charcoal.
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ne dolazi od drva ili ugljena za roštilj.
04:36
Buying mesquite charcoal will not actually make that much difference.
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Kupovanje mesquite ugljena neće zapravo napraviti toliku razliku.
04:39
Mostly it comes from fat pyrolyzing, or burning.
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Većina dolazi od same pirolizacije ili gorenja.
04:42
So it's the fat that drips down and flares up
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Dakle, masnoća koja pada dolje i gori
04:45
that causes the characteristic taste.
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je ta koja stvara karakterističan okus.
04:47
Now you might wonder, how do we make these cutaways?
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Sada se možda pitate, kako napravimo ove presjeke?
04:49
Most people assume we use Photoshop.
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Većina ljudi pretpostavlja kako koristimo Photoshop.
04:51
And the answer is: no, not really;
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A odgovor je: ne, ne zapravo,
04:53
we use a machine shop.
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koristimo trgovinu strojevima.
04:56
And it turns out, the best way to cut things in half
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I ispostavlja se kako je najbolji način rezanja stvari napola
04:59
is to actually cut them in half.
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da ih se zapravo izreže na pola.
05:02
So we have two halves of one of the best kitchens in the world.
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Dakle, imamo dvije polovice jedne od najboljih kuhinja na svijetu.
05:04
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
05:06
We cut a $5,000 restaurant oven in half.
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Razrezali smo 5.000 US$ vrijednu pećnicu u restoranu na pola.
05:10
The manufacturer said,
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Proizvođač je rekao,
05:12
"What would it take for you to cut one in half?"
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"Što vam treba da je razrežete na pola?"
05:14
I said, "It would have to show up free."
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Rekao sam, "Trebala bi biti besplatna."
05:16
And so it showed up, we used it a little while,
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I kako se pojavila, malo smo je koristili,
05:18
we cut it in half.
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prerezali smo je na pola.
05:20
Now you can also see a little bit how we did some of these shots.
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Sada možete isto tako vidjeti kako smo uslikali neke od tih slika.
05:23
We would glue a piece of Pyrex
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Zalijepili bismo dio Pyrexa
05:25
or heat-resistant glass in front.
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ili vatrostalnog stakla sprijeda.
05:28
We used a red, very high-temperature silicon to do that.
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Koristili smo crveni, silikon vrlo visoke temperature kako bismo to napravili.
05:31
The great thing is, when you cut something in half,
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Odlična stvar je kada prerežete nešto na pola,
05:33
you have another half.
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imate drugu polovicu.
05:35
So you photograph that in exactly the same position,
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Dakle, to možete fotografirati u potpuno istoj poziciji
05:37
and then you can substitute in --
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i zatim to možete zamijeniti --
05:39
and that part does use Photoshop -- just the edges.
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i za taj dio se koristi Photoshop -- samo rubovi.
05:42
So it's very much like in a Hollywood movie
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Dakle, to je više poput Hollywoodskog filma
05:44
where a guy flies through the air, supported by wires,
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gdje čovjek leti kroz zrak, žice ga podržavaju
05:46
and then they take the wires away digitally
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i zatim digitalno uklone žice
05:48
so you're flying through the air.
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tako da vi letite kroz zrak.
05:50
In most cases, though, there was no glass.
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U većini slučaja ipak nije bilo stakla.
05:52
Like for the hamburger, we just cut the damn barbecue.
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Kao i za hamburger, samo smo prerezali vražji roštilj.
05:55
And so those coals that kept falling off the edge,
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I tako taj ugljen koji je padao s rubova,
05:58
we kept having to put them back up.
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morali smo ga stavljati natrag gore.
06:00
But again, it only has to work for a thousandth of a second.
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Ali opet, mora samo funkcionirati tisućinku sekunde.
06:02
The wok shot caught fire three times.
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Prizor woka se zapalio tri puta.
06:05
What happens when you have your wok cut in half
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Ono što se dogodi kada prerežete wok na pola
06:07
is the oil goes down into the fire
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je da ulje padne dolje na vatru
06:09
and whoosh!
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i vuuuuš!
06:11
One of our cooks lost his eyebrows that way.
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Jedan od naših kuhara je na taj način izgubio svoje obrve.
06:13
But hey, they grow back.
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Ali, hej, one narastu natrag.
06:15
In addition to cutaways,
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Uz presjeke,
06:17
we also explain physics.
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isto tako objašnjavamo fiziku.
06:19
This is Fourier's law of heat conduction.
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Ovo je Fourierov zakon provođenja vrućine.
06:21
It's a partial differential equation.
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To je djelomična diferencijalna jednadžba.
06:23
We have the only cookbook in the world
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Imamo jedinu kuharicu na svijetu
06:25
that has partial differential equations in it.
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koja u sebi ima djelomične diferencijalne jednadžbe.
06:27
But to make them palatable,
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Ali kako bi ih učinili ukusnima,
06:29
we cut it out of a steel plate and put it in front of a fire
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izrezali smo ga iz čeličnog tanjura i stavili ispred vatre
06:32
and photographed it like this.
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i fotografirali to ovako.
06:34
We've got lots of little tidbits in the book.
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Imamo puno tih malih sitnica u knjizi.
06:37
Everybody knows that your various appliances
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Svi znaju kako vaši razni uređaji
06:39
have wattage, right?
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imaju potrošnju u vatima, točno?
06:42
But you probably don't know that much about James Watt.
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Ali vjerojatno ne znate toliko puno o Jamesu Wattu.
06:44
But now you will; we put a biography of James Watt in.
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Ali sada ćete znati; stavili smo u nju biografiju Jamesa Watta.
06:47
It's a little couple paragraphs
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To je par malih odlomaka
06:49
to explain why we call that unit of heat the watt,
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kako bi objasnili zašto tu jedinicu topline zovemo watt
06:52
and where he got his inspiration.
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i otkuda mu ta inspiracija.
06:54
It turned out he was hired by a Scottish distillery
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Ispostavilo se kako se zaposlio u škotskoj destileriji
06:57
to understand why they were burning so damn much peat
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kako bi shvatio zašto su sagorijevali toliko mnogo treseta
06:59
to distill the whiskey.
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kako bi destilirali whiskey.
07:01
We also did a lot of calculation.
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Isto tako smo puno kalkulacija proveli.
07:03
I personally wrote thousands of lines of code
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Osobno sam napisao tisuća linija koda
07:05
to write this cookbook.
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kako bi napisao ovu kuharicu.
07:07
Here's a calculation
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Ovdje je izračun
07:09
that shows how the intensity of a barbecue,
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koji pokazuje kako intenzitet roštilja,
07:11
or other radiant heat source, goes
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ili drugi izvor zračenja topline,
07:13
as you move away from it.
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se miče kako se odmičete od njega.
07:15
So as you move vertically away from this surface,
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Dakle, kako se vertikalno odmičete od te površine,
07:17
the heat falls off.
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vrućina se smanjuje.
07:19
As you move side to side, it moves off.
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Kako se pomičete na stranu, ona nestaje.
07:21
That horn-shaped region
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Ovu regiju u obliku roga
07:23
is what we call the sweet spot.
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zovemo slatka točka.
07:25
That's the place where the heat is even to within 10 percent.
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To je mjesto gdje je vrućina čak i unutar 10 posto.
07:28
So that's the place where you really want to cook.
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Dakle, to je mjesto gdje doista želite kuhati.
07:30
And it's got this funny horn-shaped thing,
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I ima tu smiješnu stvar u obliku roga
07:32
which as far as I know, again,
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koja je, koliko ja znam,
07:34
the first cookbook to ever do this.
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prva kuharica u kojoj je to ikada zapisano.
07:36
Now it may also be the last cookbook that ever does it.
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Sada bi to mogla biti i posljednja kuharica koja će to ikada i imati.
07:39
You know, there's two ways
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Znate, postoje dva načina
07:41
you can make a product.
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kako izraditi proizvod.
07:43
You can do lots of market research
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Možete provesti puno istraživanja tržišta
07:45
and do focus groups
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i raditi s fokus grupama
07:47
and figure out what people really want,
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i dokučiti što ljudi doista žele
07:49
or you can just kind of go for it
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ili jednostavno možete samo krenuti za time
07:51
and make the book you want and hope other people like it.
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i izraditi knjigu koju želite i nadati se kako će se i drugima svidjeti.
07:54
Here's a step-by-step that shows grinding hamburger.
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Ovdje je prikazan korak-po-korak način mljevenja hamburgera.
07:57
If you really want great hamburger,
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Ukoliko doista želite odličan hamburger,
07:59
it turns out it makes a difference if you align the grain.
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ispostavlja se kako ima razlike u pravilnom poravnanju zrna.
08:02
And it's really simple, as you can see here.
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I to je doista jednostavno, kao što možete i vidjeti ovdje.
08:04
As it comes out of the grinder, you just have a little tray,
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Kako izlazi iz stroja za mljevenje, imamo samo mali pladanj
08:06
and you just take it off in little passes,
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i samo ga uzimate kako dolazi,
08:08
build it up, slice it vertically.
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gomilate ga, narežete ga vertikalno.
08:10
Here's the final hamburger.
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Ovdje je konačni hamburger.
08:12
This is the 30-hour hamburger.
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Ovo je hamburger od 30 sati.
08:14
We make every aspect of this burger.
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Pravimo svaki aspekt ovog hamburgera.
08:16
The lettuce has got liquid smoke infused into it.
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U zelenu salatu je ubrizgan tekući dim.
08:19
We also have things about how to make the bun.
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Isto tako imamo savjet o tome kako napraviti pecivo.
08:22
There's a mushroom, ketchup -- it goes on and on.
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Imamo gljivu, kečap -- popis se nastavlja.
08:25
Now watch closely. This is popcorn. I'll explain it here.
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Sada gledajte pozorno. Ovo je kokica. Ovdje ću to objasniti.
08:28
The popcorn is illustrating
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Kokica ilustrira
08:30
a key thing in physics.
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ključnu stvar u fizici.
08:32
Isn't that beautiful?
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Nije li to lijepo.
08:34
We have a very high-speed camera,
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Imamo vrlo brzu kameru,
08:37
which we had lots of fun with on the book.
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s kojom smo imali jako puno zabave radeći na kuharici.
08:39
The key physics principle here
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Ključni princip fizike ovdje
08:41
is when water boils to steam
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je kada voda proključa do pare
08:43
it expands by a factor of 1,600.
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ona se proširi multiplikatorom od 1.600.
08:45
That's what's happening to the water inside that popcorn.
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To je ono što se događa s vodom unutar te kokice.
08:47
So it's a great illustration of that.
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Dakle, to je odlična ilustracija toga.
08:49
Now I'm going to close with a video that is kind of unusual.
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Sada, završiti ću s videom koji je na neki način neobičan.
08:52
We have a chapter on gels.
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Imamo poglavlje o gelovima.
08:54
And because people watch Mythbusters and CSI,
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I zato jer ljudi gledaju Mythbustere i CSI,
08:57
I thought, well, let's put in a recipe
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pomislio sam, pa, stavimo to u recept
08:59
for a ballistics gelatin.
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za balističku želatinu.
09:02
Well, if you have a high-speed camera,
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Pa, ako imate brzu kameru
09:04
and you have a block of ballistics gelatin lying around,
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i imate blok balističke želatine koja leži okolo,
09:07
pretty soon somebody does this.
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prilično brzo netko to radi.
09:11
(Gasps)
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(Dahtanje)
09:13
Now the amazing thing here
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Sada, nevjerojatna stvar ovdje
09:15
is that a ballistics gelatin is supposed to mimic
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je kako bi balistička želatina trebala oponašati
09:17
what happens to human flesh when you get shot -- that's why you shouldn't get shot.
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što se događa ljudskom tkivu kada vas upucaju -- zato nemojte da vas upucaju.
09:20
The other amazing thing is, when this ballistics gelatin comes down,
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Druga nevjerojatna stvar je, kada se balistička želatina istroši,
09:23
it falls back down as a nice block.
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padne dolje kao lijepi blok.
09:25
Anyway, here's the book.
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Uglavnom, ovdje je knjiga.
09:28
Here it is.
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Evo je.
09:32
2,438 pages.
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2.438 strana.
09:36
And they're nice big pages too.
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A ujedno su to i velike stranice.
09:39
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
09:47
A friend of mine complained
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Moj prijatelj se žalio
09:49
that this was too big and too pretty to go in the kitchen,
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kako je to preveliko i prelijepo da se stavi u kuhinju,
09:51
so there's a sixth volume
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stoga je ovdje šesto izdanje
09:53
that has washable, waterproof paper.
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koje ima vodootporni papir koji se može prati.
09:55
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Nathan Myhrvold - PolymathNathan Myhrvold is a professional jack-of-all-trades. After leaving Microsoft in 1999, he's been a world barbecue champion, a wildlife photographer, a chef, a contributor to SETI, and a volcano explorer.
Why you should listen
Since leaving his post as Microsoft's Chief Technology Officer in 1999 (with fortune in tow), Nathan Myhrvold has been a professional exemplar of the spirit of the "Renaissance Man," proudly following his interests wherever they've led. His dispersed passions have triggered an impressive list of accomplishments, including world barbecue championships, major archeological finds (several Tyrannosaurus rex skeletons), prize-winning wildlife photography, building a section of Babbage's Difference Engine #2, s, and a new and consuming interest in the sous-vide cooking technique.
Malcolm Gladwell's 2008 New Yorker profile of him revealed an impish but truly inspired character whose latest company, Intellectual Ventures -- which brainstorms and patents a wide array of inventions -- has been accused in some quarters of acting like a 'patent troll' but is described by Myhrvold as "a disruptive organization providing an efficient way for patent holders to get paid for the inventions they own, and... for technology companies to gain easy access to the invention rights they need." After funding big-vision projects such as the Allen Telescope Array, exploring active volcanoes and investigating penguin digestion, Myhrvold insists that his hobbies aren't as discursive as they seem. They do have a common denominator, after all: him.
Nathan Myhrvold | Speaker | TED.com