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Isaac Mizrahi: How the button changed fashion
Isaac Mizrahi: Kako je gumb promijenio modu
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Kako je jednostavan gumb promijenio svijet, prema modnom dizajneru Isaacu Mizrahiju.
Isaac Mizrahi - Fashion designer
Fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi mixes high fashion and the mass market, with a line of haute couture and a line for Target. Plus a talk show, a cabaret act, a movie, a new book ... Full bio
Fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi mixes high fashion and the mass market, with a line of haute couture and a line for Target. Plus a talk show, a cabaret act, a movie, a new book ... Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
There are no bad buttons,
there are only bad people.
there are only bad people.
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Ne postoje loši gumbi, samo loši ljudi.
00:14
How does that sound? OK?
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Što kažete na to? OK?
00:15
[Small thing.]
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[Mala stvar.]
00:16
[Big idea.]
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[Velika zamisao.]
00:19
[Isaac Mizrahi on
the Button]
the Button]
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[Isaac Mizrahi o gumbu]
00:23
No one knows who invented the button.
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Ne zna se tko je izumio gumb.
00:25
It might have shown up
as early as 2,000 BCE.
as early as 2,000 BCE.
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Možda se pojavio
i 2000 godina prije nove ere.
i 2000 godina prije nove ere.
00:28
It was decorative when it first started,
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U početku je služio u dekorativne svrhe,
00:31
just something pretty
sewn onto your clothes.
sewn onto your clothes.
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samo kao nešto lijepo prišiveno na odjeću.
00:33
Then about 3,000 years later,
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Zatim, oko 3000 godina kasnije,
00:35
someone finally invented the buttonhole,
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netko se napokon sjetio rupice za gumb
00:38
and buttons were suddenly useful.
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i gumbi su odjednom postali korisni.
00:40
The button and the buttonhole
is such a great invention.
is such a great invention.
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Gumb i rupica za gumb sjajni su izumi.
00:44
Not only does it slip
through the buttonhole,
through the buttonhole,
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Ne samo da gumb proklizi kroz rupicu,
00:46
but then it kind of falls into place,
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već i nekako sjedne na svoje mjesto,
dajući osjećaj potpune sigurnosti,
kao da se nikad neće otkopčati.
kao da se nikad neće otkopčati.
00:48
and so you're completely secure,
like it's never going to open.
like it's never going to open.
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00:51
The design of a button hasn't changed much
since the Middle Ages.
since the Middle Ages.
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Dizajn gumba nije se mnogo promijenio
još od srednjeg vijeka.
još od srednjeg vijeka.
00:55
It's one of the most enduring
designs in history.
designs in history.
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Riječ je o jednom od
najpostojanijih izuma u povijesti.
najpostojanijih izuma u povijesti.
00:58
For me, the best buttons
are usually round.
are usually round.
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Za mene su najbolji okrugli gumbi.
01:01
There's either a dome button
with a little shank,
with a little shank,
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Postoje ispupčeni gumbi s alkicom
01:04
or there's just this sort of round thing
with either a rim or not a rim,
with either a rim or not a rim,
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ili obični, okrugli gumbi,
s rubom ili bez,
s rubom ili bez,
01:08
either two holes or four holes.
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s dvije ili četiri rupe.
01:10
Almost more important than the button
is the buttonhole.
is the buttonhole.
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Rupica za gumb gotovo da je
važnija od samog gumba.
važnija od samog gumba.
01:13
And the way you figure that out is:
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Izračunava se na sljedeći način:
01:15
the diameter of the button
plus the width of the button,
plus the width of the button,
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promjer gumba plus njegova debljina,
i ostavite još malo prostora.
01:18
plus a little bit of ease.
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01:19
Before buttons, clothes were bigger --
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Prije gumbiju odjeća je bila šira,
01:22
they were more kind of amorphous,
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bezoblična,
01:24
and people, like, wriggled into them
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i ljudi bi se samo uvili u nju,
01:26
or just kind of wrapped
themselves in things.
themselves in things.
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ili bi se jednostavno nekako
omotali njome.
omotali njome.
01:28
But then fashion moved closer to the body
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Međutim, moda je odjeću približila tijelu
01:32
as we discovered uses for the button.
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kada smo otkrili blagodati gumba.
01:34
At one time, it was the one way
to make clothes fit against the body.
to make clothes fit against the body.
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U jednom trenutku, to je bio jedini način
da se odjeća priljubi tijelu.
da se odjeća priljubi tijelu.
01:41
I think the reason buttons have endured
for so long, historically,
for so long, historically,
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Mislim da su gumbi izdržali toliko dugo
01:44
is because they actually work
to keep our clothes shut.
to keep our clothes shut.
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baš zato što, zapravo,
uspijevaju odjeću držati zakopčanom.
uspijevaju odjeću držati zakopčanom.
01:47
Zippers break;
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Patentni zatvarači pucaju,
01:48
Velcro makes a lot of noise,
and it wears out after a while.
and it wears out after a while.
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čičak je bučan i s vremenom se iznosi.
01:51
If a button falls off,
you just literally sew that thing on.
you just literally sew that thing on.
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Ako gumb otpadne,
doslovce ga samo prišijete.
doslovce ga samo prišijete.
01:54
A button is kind of there
for the long run.
for the long run.
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Gumb je nekako dugovječniji.
01:57
It's not just the most
elemental design ever,
elemental design ever,
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Nije riječ samo o
najosnovnijem obliku u povijesti,
najosnovnijem obliku u povijesti,
02:00
it's also such a crazy fashion statement.
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već i o otkačenom modnom detalju.
02:04
When I was a kid, my mom knit me
this beautiful sweater.
this beautiful sweater.
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Kad sam bio dijete,
majka mi je isplela predivan džemper.
majka mi je isplela predivan džemper.
02:08
I didn't like it.
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Nije mi se sviđao.
02:09
And then I found these buttons,
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Zatim sam pronašao neke gumbe
02:10
and the minute the buttons were
on the sweater, I loved it.
on the sweater, I loved it.
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i čim sam ih prišio
na džemper, svidio mi se.
na džemper, svidio mi se.
02:13
If you don't have good taste
and you can't pick out a button,
and you can't pick out a button,
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Ako nemate dobar ukus
i ne možete odabrati pravi gumb,
i ne možete odabrati pravi gumb,
prepustite odabir nekome drugome, u redu?
02:16
then let someone else do it, you know?
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02:18
I mean that.
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Stvarno to mislim.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Isaac Mizrahi - Fashion designerFashion designer Isaac Mizrahi mixes high fashion and the mass market, with a line of haute couture and a line for Target. Plus a talk show, a cabaret act, a movie, a new book ...
Why you should listen
Design-wise, Isaac Mizrahi is best known for bridging the gap between high and low -- creating gorgeous couture confections for the likes of Eartha Kitt and others, as well as a hugely popular, groundbreakingly affordable line for Target.
His design mission comes wrapped in endless charisma. He's a talk-show host, he's performed his own one-man show Off-Broadway, he was the subject of the hilarious documentary Unzipped, and he does regular cabaret nights at Joe's Pub in New York City. His new book is called How to Have Style .
Isaac Mizrahi | Speaker | TED.com