TEDYouth 2013
Eddy Cartaya: My glacier cave discoveries
Edi Kartaja (Eddy Cartaya): Moje otkrivanje glečerskih pećina
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Snežni zmaj. Čista mašta. Zaleđeni minotaur. To su sve imena koja su planinari Edi Kartaja i njegov prijatelj Brent Makgregor dali trima glečerskim pećinama koje su oni prvi istražili. Kako glečer Sendi polako klizi niz planinu Hud u Oregonu, pećine i tuneli unutar tog glečera svake godine se menjaju zahvaljujući toploj vodi odgore i toplom vazduhu od dole. Na događaju TEDYouth, Kartaja nas vodi u samu unutrašnjost tih magičnih prostora u kojima se led presijava plavom i zelenom bojom, i u kojima se s tavanice slivaju brojni ukrasi.
Eddy Cartaya - Cave Explorer
A ranger at Deschutes National Forest in Oregon, Eddy Cartaya not only solves cave crimes -- he also explores the ever-changing system of caves within Mount Hood's Sandy Glacier. Full bio
A ranger at Deschutes National Forest in Oregon, Eddy Cartaya not only solves cave crimes -- he also explores the ever-changing system of caves within Mount Hood's Sandy Glacier. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
So how many of you have ever
been in a cave before?
been in a cave before?
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Koliko vas je nekada bilo
u nekoj pećini?
u nekoj pećini?
00:15
Okay, a few of you.
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Znači nekoliko vas.
00:16
When you think of a cave, most of you think
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Kada pomislite na pećinu,
većina vas će zamisliti
većina vas će zamisliti
00:18
of a tunnel going through solid rock,
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tunel u kamenu,
00:20
and in fact, that's how most caves are.
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a takva i jeste većina.
00:22
Around this half of the country,
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U ovoj polovini zemlje
00:24
most of your caves are made of limestone.
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većina pećina je krečnjačka.
00:26
Back where I'm from, most of our
caves are made of lava rock,
caves are made of lava rock,
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Tamo odakle sam ja,
većina pećina je od skamenjene lave
većina pećina je od skamenjene lave
00:29
because we have a lot of volcanoes out there.
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jer imamo puno vulkana.
00:30
But the caves I want to share
with you today are made
with you today are made
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Pećine koje danas želim
da vam pokažem
da vam pokažem
00:32
completely of ice, specifically glacier ice
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su u potpunosti od leda,
tačnije glečera
tačnije glečera
00:36
that's formed in the side of the tallest mountain
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koji se formiraju na jednoj padini
najviše planine
najviše planine
00:38
in the state of Oregon, called Mount Hood.
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u američkoj državi Oregon,
koja se zove Hud.
koja se zove Hud.
00:41
Now Mount Hood's only
one hour's drive from Portland,
one hour's drive from Portland,
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Ta planina je na samo sat vremena
vožnje od Portlanda,
vožnje od Portlanda,
00:44
the largest city in Oregon,
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najvećeg grada u Oregonu,
00:45
where over two million people live.
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u kome živi dva miliona ljudi.
00:48
Now the most exciting thing for a cave explorer
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Za svakog istraživača pećina
najzanimljivije je
najzanimljivije je
00:50
is to find a new cave
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kada se otkrije nova pećina
00:51
and be the first human to ever go into it.
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i kada ste prva osoba
koja u nju kroči.
koja u nju kroči.
00:54
The second most exciting thing for a cave explorer
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Druga stvar je
00:56
is to be the first one to make a map of a cave.
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da prvi napravite mapu pećine.
00:58
Now these days, with so many people hiking around,
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U ovo vreme s puno planinara
na sve strane
na sve strane
01:00
it's pretty hard to find a new cave,
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vrlo je teško pronaći novu pećinu
01:02
so you can imagine how excited we were
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tako da možete zamisliti
koliko smo bili uzbuđeni
koliko smo bili uzbuđeni
01:04
to find three new caves
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kada smo našli tri nove pećine
01:05
within sight of Oregon's largest city
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na videlu najvećeg grada u Oregonu
01:08
and realize that they had never been explored
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i shvatili da do sada nisu istraživane
01:10
or mapped before.
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niti mapirane.
01:11
It was kind of like being an astronaut,
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Osećali smo se kao astronauti
01:12
because we were getting to
see things and go places
see things and go places
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jer smo mogli da vidimo
i posetimo mesta
i posetimo mesta
01:15
that no one had ever seen or gone to before.
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na koja niko nikad nije kročio.
01:18
So what is a glacier?
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A šta je glečer?
01:20
Well, those of you who have
ever seen or touched snow,
ever seen or touched snow,
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Ako ste ikad videli i osetili sneg
01:22
you know that it's really light,
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znate da je veoma lagan,
01:23
because it's just a bunch of tiny ice crystals
clumped together, and it's mostly air.
clumped together, and it's mostly air.
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zato što se sastoji od mnoštva nagomilanih
sitnih kristala i većinom vazduha.
sitnih kristala i većinom vazduha.
01:27
If you squish a handful of snow to make a snowball,
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Ako stisnete sneg da napravite grudvu
01:29
it gets really small, hard and dense.
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postaće manji, tvrđi i gušći.
01:31
Well, on a mountain like Hood, where it snows
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Na planini kao što je Hud,
gde snežni pokrivač
gde snežni pokrivač
01:33
over 20 feet a year,
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dostiže visinu do preko
pola metra godišnje,
pola metra godišnje,
01:35
it crushes the air out of it
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sneg potiskuje vazduh
01:37
and gradually forms it into hard blue ice.
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i postepeno se formira tvrdi plavi led.
01:40
Now each year, more and more ice
stacks up on top of it,
stacks up on top of it,
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Svake godine se sve više leda nagomilava
01:43
and eventually it gets so heavy
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dok na kraju ne oteža toliko
01:45
that it starts to slide down the mountain
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da počne da klizi niz padinu
01:47
under its own weight,
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od sopstvene težine.
01:48
forming a slow-moving river of ice.
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praveći reku leda koji se sporo kreće.
01:50
When ice packed like that starts to move,
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Kada se pokrene tako zgrušan led,
01:53
we call it a glacier, and we give it a name.
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zovemo ga glečerom i damo mu ime.
01:55
The name of the glacier these caves are formed in
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Ime glečera u kome su te pećine
01:57
is the Sandy Glacier.
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je glečer Sendi.
01:58
Now each year, as new snow lands on the glacier,
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Svake godine, kad novi sneg
padne na glečer,
padne na glečer,
02:02
it melts in the summer sun,
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on se topi pod letnjim suncem
02:03
and it forms little rivers of water
on the flow along the ice,
on the flow along the ice,
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i u svom toku, pored leda,
stvara i rečice
stvara i rečice
02:06
and they start to melt and bore
their way down through the glacier,
their way down through the glacier,
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i oni se zajedno tope
i slivaju zajedno s glečerom,
i slivaju zajedno s glečerom,
02:09
forming big networks of caves,
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stvarajući velike mreže pećina,
02:11
sometimes going all the way down
to the underlying bedrock.
to the underlying bedrock.
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ponekad čak i do donjeg
kamenitog sloja tla.
kamenitog sloja tla.
02:14
Now the crazy thing about glacier caves
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Zanimljivo je to što se svake godine
02:16
is that each year, new tunnels form.
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u glečerskim pećinama stvore novi tuneli.
02:20
Different waterfalls pop up or move around
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U pećini se pojave i različiti vodopadi
02:22
from place to place inside the cave.
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koji mogu da se pomeraju
s jednog mesta na drugo.
s jednog mesta na drugo.
02:24
Warm water from the top of the ice
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Topla voda s površine leda
02:26
is boring its way down,
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probija put ka dole
02:27
and warm air from below the mountain
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a topao vazduh ispod planine
02:29
actually rises up, gets into the cave,
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se penje gore, ulazi u pećinu
02:31
and melts the ceilings back taller and taller.
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i sve više topi tavanicu.
02:34
But the weirdest thing about glacier caves
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Najčudnije je to
02:36
is that the entire cave is moving,
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što se glečerske pećine kreću
02:38
because it's formed inside a block of ice
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zato što su unutar gromade leda,
02:40
the size of a small city
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veličine omanjeg grada,
02:42
that's slowly sliding down the mountain.
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koja polako klizi niz planinu.
02:44
Now this is Brent McGregor,
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Ovo je Brent Makgregor,
02:46
my cave exploration partner.
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moj partner u istraživanju pećina.
02:48
He and I have both been exploring caves a long time
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Obojica dugo istražujemo pećine
02:51
and we've been climbing mountains a long time,
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i dugo se pentramo po planinama,
02:53
but neither one of us had ever really
explored a glacier cave before.
explored a glacier cave before.
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ali dosad nismo istraživali
nijednu glečersku pećinu.
nijednu glečersku pećinu.
02:56
Back in 2011, Brent saw a YouTube video
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2011. godine, Brent je video
snimak na Jutjubu
snimak na Jutjubu
02:59
of a couple of hikers that stumbled across
the entrance to one of these caves.
the entrance to one of these caves.
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u kome su dva pešaka naišla
na ulaz u jednu od ovih pećina.
na ulaz u jednu od ovih pećina.
03:02
There were no GPS coordinates for it,
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Nisu postojale GPS koordinate do nje
03:04
and all we knew was that it was somewhere
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i znali smo samo da je negde
03:06
out on the Sandy Glacier.
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na glečeru Sendi.
03:08
So in July of that year, we went out on the glacier,
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Jula iste godine otišli smo
na taj glečer
na taj glečer
03:10
and we found a big crack in the ice.
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i našli smo veliku pukotinu u ledu.
03:12
We had to build snow and ice anchors
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Morali smo da postavimo
kuke u sneg i led
kuke u sneg i led
03:14
so that we could tie off ropes
and rappel down into the hole.
and rappel down into the hole.
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kako bismo vezali konopce
i spustili se u rupu.
i spustili se u rupu.
03:18
This is me looking into the entrance crevasse.
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Ovde ja gledam ulaznu pukotinu.
03:20
At the end of this hole, we found a huge tunnel
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Na kraju te rupe smo našli ogroman tunel
03:23
going right up the mountain
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koji je vodio tačno u planinu,
03:24
underneath thousands of tons of glacier ice.
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ispod hiljada tona glečerskog leda.
03:27
We followed this cave back for about a half mile
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Išli smo kroz pećinu skoro 800 metara
03:29
until it came to an end,
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do samog njenog kraja,
03:31
and then with the help of our survey tools
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a onda smo uz pomoć istraživačkog alata
03:33
we made a three-dimensional map of the cave
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napravili trodimenzionalnu mapu pećine
03:35
on our way back out.
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dok smo se vraćali nazad.
03:37
So how do you map a cave?
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Kako se pećina mapira?
03:39
Well, cave maps aren't like trail maps or road maps
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Mape pećina nisu
kao pešačke staze ili putevi
kao pešačke staze ili putevi
03:41
because they have pits and holes
going to overlapping levels.
going to overlapping levels.
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zato što ima raznih rupa
koje se preklapaju na različitim nivoima.
koje se preklapaju na različitim nivoima.
03:45
To make a cave map, you have to set up
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Za mapiranje pećine
u njoj treba da se postave
u njoj treba da se postave
03:46
survey stations every few feet inside the cave,
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merne stanice na svakih pola metra
03:49
and you use a laser to measure
the distance between those stations.
the distance between those stations.
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pa se laserom meri razdaljina
između svake.
između svake.
03:52
Then you use a compass and an inclinometer
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Potom se koriste kompas i inklinometar
03:55
to measure the direction the cave is headed
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da se izmeri pravac
u kome se pećina prostire
u kome se pećina prostire
03:57
and measure the slope of the floor and the ceilings.
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i nagib poda i tavanice.
03:59
Now those of you taking trigonometry,
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Onima koji znaju trigonometriju
04:01
that particular type of math is very useful
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ti podaci su vrlo korisni
04:03
for making maps like this
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za pravljenje takvih mapa
04:05
because it allows you to measure
heights and distances
heights and distances
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zato što mogu da se izmere
visine i razdaljine
visine i razdaljine
04:07
without actually having to go there.
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bez odlaženja na samo mesto.
04:09
In fact, the more I mapped and studied caves,
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Zapravo, što sam više mapirao
i proučavao pećine
i proučavao pećine
04:11
the more useful I found all that math
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to mi je korisnija bila trigonometrija
04:13
that I originally hated in school to be.
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koju sam prvo mrzeo u školi.
04:16
So when you're done surveying,
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Kada se završi s istraživanjem,
04:18
you take all this data and
you punch it into a computer
you punch it into a computer
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svi ti podaci se smeste na računar
04:20
and you find someone that can draw really well,
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i uz pomoć nekoga ko dobro crta
04:23
and you have them draft up a map
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sastavite skicu
04:24
that looks something like this,
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nalik na ovu,
04:26
and it'll show you both a
bird's-eye view of the passage
bird's-eye view of the passage
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koja prikazuje prolaz iz ptičje perspektive
04:29
as well as a profile view of the passage,
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kao i bočni presek prolaza,
04:31
kind of like an ant farm view.
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nalik na presek mravlje kolonije.
04:33
We named this cave Snow Dragon Cave
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Ovu pećinu smo nazvali Snežni zmaj
04:35
because it was like a big dragon
sleeping under the snow.
sleeping under the snow.
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jer je kao veliki zmaj
koji spava pod snegom.
koji spava pod snegom.
04:38
Now later this summer, as more
snow melted off the glacier,
snow melted off the glacier,
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Istog tog leta, kako se
sneg na glečeru topio,
sneg na glečeru topio,
04:41
we found more caves, and we realized
they were all connected.
they were all connected.
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našli smo još pećina
i shvatili da su sve povezane.
i shvatili da su sve povezane.
04:44
Not long after we mapped Snow Dragon,
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Nedugo nakon mapiranja
Snežnog zmaja
Snežnog zmaja
04:47
Brent discovered this new cave not very far away.
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Brent je nedaleko od njega
otkrio novu pećinu.
otkrio novu pećinu.
04:50
The inside of it was coated with ice,
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Unutrašnjost joj je bila
obložena snegom,
obložena snegom,
04:52
so we had to wear big spikes
on our feet called crampons
on our feet called crampons
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te smo morali da na obući
nosimo krampone
nosimo krampone
04:55
so we could walk around without slipping.
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protiv proklizavanja.
04:57
This cave was amazing.
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Pećina je bila neverovatna.
04:59
The ice in the ceiling was glowing blue anad green
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Sneg na tavanici se presijavao
na plavo i zeleno
na plavo i zeleno
05:01
because the sunlight from far above
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jer su sunčevi zraci odgore
05:03
was shining through the ice and lighting it all up.
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padali kroz led i osvetljavali celu pećinu.
05:06
And we couldn't understand why this cave
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Nije nam bilo jasno zašto je ta pećina
05:08
was so much colder than Snow Dragon
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bila hladnija od Snežnog zmaja
05:09
until we got to the end and we found out why.
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dok nismo stigli do kraja.
05:12
There was a huge pit or shaft called a moulin
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Otkrili smo ogroman otvor
koji se zove „mulin“,
koji se zove „mulin“,
05:15
going 130 feet straight up
to the surface of the glacier.
to the surface of the glacier.
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dugačak 40 metara i koji ide
do površine glečera.
do površine glečera.
05:19
Cold air from the top of the mountain
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Hladan vazduh s vrha planine
05:21
was flowing down this hole
and blasting through the cave,
and blasting through the cave,
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se spuštao kroz tu rupu i šibao je pećinom,
05:23
freezing everything inside of it.
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ledeći sve unutra.
05:26
And we were so excited about finding this new pit,
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Bili smo toliko uzbuđeni zbog tog otkrića
05:28
we actually came back in January the following year
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da smo se narednog januara vratili
05:30
so we could be the first ones to explore it.
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kako bismo je prvi istraživali.
05:33
It was so cold outside,
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Napolju je bilo toliko hladno
05:34
we actually had to sleep inside the cave.
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da smo morali da spavamo u pećini.
05:37
There's our camp on the left side
of this entrance room.
of this entrance room.
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S leve strane ulaza se vidi naš kamp.
05:40
The next morning, we climbed out of the cave
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Narednog jutra smo se
popeli iz pećine
popeli iz pećine
05:43
and hiked all the way to the top of the glacier,
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i otpešačili sve do vrha glečera,
05:45
where we finally rigged and rappelled this pit
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gde smo se konačno
uz pomoć konopca uspentrali
uz pomoć konopca uspentrali
05:47
for the very first time.
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prvi put kroz taj prolaz.
05:49
Brent named this cave Pure Imagination,
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Brent je tu pećinu nazvao Čista mašta,
05:51
I think because the beautiful sights we saw in there
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jer stvari koje smo tamo videli
05:53
were beyond what we could have ever imagined.
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nismo mogli ni da zamislimo.
05:56
So besides really cool ice,
what else is inside these caves?
what else is inside these caves?
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Pored sveg tog leda,
čega još ima u pećinama?
čega još ima u pećinama?
05:59
Well not too much lives in them
because they're so cold
because they're so cold
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Skoro ih ništa ne nastanjuje
jer su jako hladne
jer su jako hladne
06:01
and the entrance is actually covered up with snow
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a ulazi su prekriveni snegom
06:03
for about eight months of the year.
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skoro osam meseci godišnje.
06:05
But there are some really cool things in there.
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Ali ima vrlo zanimljivih stvari.
06:07
There's weird bacteria living in the water
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U vodi živi neobična bakterija
06:09
that actually eat and digest rocks
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koja se hrani kamenjem i vari ga
06:12
to make their own food
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da bi sebi napravila hranu
06:13
to live under this ice.
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i živela pod ledom.
06:15
In fact, this past summer, scientists collected
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Ovoga leta su naučnici skupili
06:17
samples of water and ice
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uzorke vode i leda
06:19
specifically to see if things called extremophiles,
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da provere da li ekstremofili,
06:22
tiny lifeforms that are evolved
to live in completely hostile conditions,
to live in completely hostile conditions,
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mali organizmi koji su se
prilagodili lošim uslovima,
prilagodili lošim uslovima,
06:25
might be living under the ice,
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mogu da žive pod ledom,
06:27
kind of like what they hope to find
on the polar icecaps of Mars someday.
on the polar icecaps of Mars someday.
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kao da se nadaju da će jednog dana
na Marsu naći polarne kape.
na Marsu naći polarne kape.
06:30
Another really cool things is that,
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Zanimljivo je i to što,
06:32
as seeds and birds land on
the surface of the glacier and die,
the surface of the glacier and die,
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kada se seme ili ptice spuste
na površinu glečera pa uginu,
na površinu glečera pa uginu,
06:35
they get buried in the snow
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oni porinu u sneg
06:37
and gradually become part of the glacier,
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i na kraju postanu deo njega,
06:39
sinking deeper and deeper into the ice.
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tonući sve dublje i dublje.
06:41
As these caves form and melt
their way up into the ice,
their way up into the ice,
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Topljenjem i formiranjem pećina,
06:44
they make these artifacts rain down from the ceiling
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takvi artefakti se sliju kroz tavanicu
06:47
and fall onto the cave floor,
where we end up finding them.
where we end up finding them.
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i padnu na pod, gde ih mi na kraju nađemo.
06:49
For example, this is a noble fir seed we found.
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Pronašli smo npr. ovo seme plave jele.
06:52
It's been frozen in the ice for over 100 years,
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Zaleđeno je preko 100 godina,
06:55
and it's just now starting to sprout.
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i tek sada počinje da klija.
06:57
This mallard duck feather
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Ovo pero divlje patke
06:59
was found over 1,800 feet
in the back of Snow Dragon Cave.
in the back of Snow Dragon Cave.
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pronađeno je na udaljenosti od
pola kilometra u Zmajevoj pećini.
pola kilometra u Zmajevoj pećini.
07:02
This duck died on the surface
of the glacier long, long ago,
of the glacier long, long ago,
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Patka je davno uginula na površini glečera
07:05
and its feathers have finally made it
down through over 100 feet of ice
down through over 100 feet of ice
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i njeno perje je prošlo kroz 30m leda
07:09
before falling inside the cave.
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dok nije upalo u pećinu.
07:11
And this beautiful quartz crystal
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A ovaj divni kvarcni kristal
07:13
was also found in the back of Snow Dragon.
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je pronađen na kraju Snežnog zmaja.
07:15
Even now, Brent and I find it hard to believe
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Brent i ja još ne možemo da verujemo
07:17
that all these discoveries were
essentially in our own backyard,
essentially in our own backyard,
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da smo sve te stvari otkrili
praktično na sopstvenom pragu,
praktično na sopstvenom pragu,
07:20
hidden away, just waiting to be found.
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kao da su tako skrivene
samo čekale da budu pronađene.
samo čekale da budu pronađene.
07:23
Like I said earlier, the idea of discovering
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Kao što sam već rekao, otkrivanje
07:25
in this busy world we live in
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u ovom užurbanom svetu u kome živimo
07:27
kind of seems like something
you can only do with space travel now,
you can only do with space travel now,
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čini se da je poput putovanja svemirom,
07:30
but that's not true.
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što nije istina.
07:31
Every year, new caves get discovered
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Svake godine se otkriju nove pećine
07:33
that no one has ever been in before.
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koje niko do tad nije video.
07:35
So it's actually not too late for one of you
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Još nije kasno da i vi
07:37
to become a discoverer yourself.
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postanete istraživači.
07:39
You just have to be willing to look
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Treba samo da budete voljni da zavirite
07:41
and go where people don't often go
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i kročite na mesta
gde ljudi obično ne idu
gde ljudi obično ne idu
07:44
and focus your eyes and your mind
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i da oči i um usredsredite
07:46
to recognize the discovery when you see it,
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na prepoznavanje pravog otkrića,
07:48
because it might be in your own backyard.
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jer ona mogu ležati
na vašem kućnom pragu.
na vašem kućnom pragu.
07:50
Thank you very much.
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Hvala.
07:52
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Eddy Cartaya - Cave ExplorerA ranger at Deschutes National Forest in Oregon, Eddy Cartaya not only solves cave crimes -- he also explores the ever-changing system of caves within Mount Hood's Sandy Glacier.
Why you should listen
Much of Eddy Cartaya's life takes place in caves. A ranger at Deschutes National Forest in Oregon, in charge of law enforcement and investigations, he solves crimes that happen in caves. This can range from investigating the theft of lava formations that date back 6,000 years to tracking down a group of people who covered over ancient cave art with spray paint.
Cartaya and his climbing partner, Brent McGregor, also explore the frozen, icy caves created in the Sandy Glacier as it slowly slides down Oregon's Mount Hood. In 2011, the pair identified and explored three caves which they named Snow Dragon, Pure Imagination and Frozen Minotaur. Together, the caves create 7,000 feet of passageway through the glacier. Experts think this may be the longest glacial cave system in the United States outside of Alaska.
Eddy Cartaya | Speaker | TED.com