TED2014
Ben Saunders: To the South Pole and back — the hardest 105 days of my life
Ben Sonders (Ben Saunders): Do Južnog pola i nazad - najtežih 105 dana u mom životu
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Ove godine, istraživač Ben Sonders pokušao je svoju najambiciozniju šetnju do sada. Krenuo je da završi propalu ekspediciju kapetana Roberta Falkona Skota iz 1912 - povratno putovanje od četiri meseca, 2900 kilometara, od ivice Antarktika i nazad. U prvom govoru nakon svoje avanture, samo pet nedelja nakon svog povratka, Sonders pruža neizvežban, iskren pogled na misiju obojenu ohološću koja ga je dovela do najteže odluke njegovog života.
Ben Saunders - Polar explorer
In 2004, Ben Saunders became the youngest person ever to ski solo to the North Pole. In 2013, he set out on another record-breaking expedition, this time to retrace Captain Scott’s ill-fated journey to the South Pole on foot. Full bio
In 2004, Ben Saunders became the youngest person ever to ski solo to the North Pole. In 2013, he set out on another record-breaking expedition, this time to retrace Captain Scott’s ill-fated journey to the South Pole on foot. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
So in the oasis of
intelligentsia that is TED,
intelligentsia that is TED,
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Dakle u TED-u,
koji je jezgro inteligencije,
koji je jezgro inteligencije,
00:18
I stand here before you this evening
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stojim večeras pred vama
00:21
as an expert in dragging heavy
stuff around cold places.
stuff around cold places.
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u ulozi stručnjaka za tegljenje
teških stvari po hladnim mestima.
teških stvari po hladnim mestima.
00:27
I've been leading polar expeditions
for most of my adult life,
for most of my adult life,
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Veći deo svojih zrelih godina
predvodio sam polarne ekspedicije
predvodio sam polarne ekspedicije
00:30
and last month, my teammate
Tarka L'Herpiniere and I
Tarka L'Herpiniere and I
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i prošlog meseca, moj kolega
Tarka Lerpinijer i ja
Tarka Lerpinijer i ja
00:33
finished the most ambitious
expedition I've ever attempted.
expedition I've ever attempted.
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završili smo najambiciozniju
ekspediciju koju sam ikada pokušao.
ekspediciju koju sam ikada pokušao.
00:39
In fact, it feels like I've been
transported straight here
transported straight here
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Zapravo, imam osećaj da sam
pravo ovde bio transportovan
pravo ovde bio transportovan
00:42
from four months in the middle of nowhere,
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iz četiri meseca provedenih u nedođiji,
00:44
mostly grunting and swearing,
straight to the TED stage.
straight to the TED stage.
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mahom uz gunđanje i psovke,
pravo na TED binu.
pravo na TED binu.
00:49
So you can imagine that's a transition
that hasn't been entirely seamless.
that hasn't been entirely seamless.
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Možete pretpostaviti da to nije bila
baš glatka promena.
baš glatka promena.
00:53
One of the interesting side effects
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Jedna od zanimljivih nuspojava je
00:55
seems to be that my short-term
memory is entirely shot.
memory is entirely shot.
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da mi je kratkotrajno pamćenje
izgleda potpuno otišlo.
izgleda potpuno otišlo.
00:58
So I've had to write some notes
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Pa sam morao da nažvrljam neke tezice
01:00
to avoid too much grunting and swearing
in the next 17 minutes.
in the next 17 minutes.
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da izbegnem mnogo gunđanja i psovanja
u narednih 17 minuta.
u narednih 17 minuta.
01:05
This is the first talk I've given
about this expedition,
about this expedition,
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Ovo je prvi govor koji držim
o ovoj ekspediciji,
o ovoj ekspediciji,
01:08
and while we weren't sequencing genomes
or building space telescopes,
or building space telescopes,
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i iako nismo ispisivali genome
ili pravili svemirske teleskope,
ili pravili svemirske teleskope,
01:13
this is a story about giving everything
we had to achieve something
we had to achieve something
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ovo je priča o tome kako smo dali
sve što imamo da postignemo
sve što imamo da postignemo
01:18
that hadn't been done before.
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nešto što do sada niko nije uradio.
01:20
So I hope in that you might
find some food for thought.
find some food for thought.
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Pa se nadam da ćete možda pronaći
materijal za razmišljanje.
materijal za razmišljanje.
01:24
It was a journey, an
expedition in Antarctica,
expedition in Antarctica,
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Bio je to put, ekspedicija, na Antarktik,
01:28
the coldest, windiest, driest and
highest altitude continent on Earth.
highest altitude continent on Earth.
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najhladniji, najvetrovitiji, najsuvlji
i najviši kontinent u Evropi.
i najviši kontinent u Evropi.
01:32
It's a fascinating place.
It's a huge place.
It's a huge place.
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To je fascinantno mesto.
Ogromno mesto.
Ogromno mesto.
01:34
It's twice the size of Australia,
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Duplo je veći od Australije,
01:37
a continent that is the same size
as China and India put together.
as China and India put together.
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kontinent koji je veličine
Kine i Indije zajedno.
Kine i Indije zajedno.
01:42
As an aside, I have experienced
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Da dodam, iskusio sam
01:44
an interesting phenomenon
in the last few days,
in the last few days,
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zanimljivu pojavu
u poslednjih nekoliko dana,
u poslednjih nekoliko dana,
01:46
something that I expect Chris Hadfield
may get at TED in a few years' time,
may get at TED in a few years' time,
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nešto što očekujem da se desi
Krisu Hedfildu na TED-u za koju godinu,
Krisu Hedfildu na TED-u za koju godinu,
01:50
conversations that go something like this:
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razgovori koji teku otprilike ovako:
01:52
"Oh, Antarctica. Awesome.
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"O, Antarktik. Strava.
01:53
My husband and I did Antarctica
with Lindblad for our anniversary."
with Lindblad for our anniversary."
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Suprug i ja smo odradili Antarktik
i Lindblad za godišnjicu braka."
i Lindblad za godišnjicu braka."
01:59
Or, "Oh cool, did you go there
for the marathon?"
for the marathon?"
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Ili: "O, kul, bio si tamo na maratonu?"
02:02
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
02:06
Our journey was, in fact,
69 marathons back to back
69 marathons back to back
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Naš put je, zapravo, bio
kao 69 spojenih maratona
kao 69 spojenih maratona
02:10
in 105 days, an 1,800-mile round trip
on foot from the coast of Antarctica
on foot from the coast of Antarctica
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u 105 dana, povratni put dug 1800 milja,
pešaka, od obale Antarktika
pešaka, od obale Antarktika
02:16
to the South Pole and back again.
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do Južnog pola i nazad.
02:19
In the process, we broke the record
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Usput smo oborili rekord
02:21
for the longest human-powered polar
journey in history by more than 400 miles.
journey in history by more than 400 miles.
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najdužeg ljudskog polarnog putovanja
u istoriji, za više od 400 milja.
u istoriji, za više od 400 milja.
02:27
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
02:31
For those of you from the Bay Area,
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Za vas iz Zaliva,
02:33
it was the same as walking from
here to San Francisco,
here to San Francisco,
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to je kao da hodate
odavde do San Franciska,
odavde do San Franciska,
02:38
then turning around
and walking back again.
and walking back again.
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a onda se okrenete i vratite se.
02:40
So as camping trips go, it was a long one,
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Ako pričamo o kampovanju,
bilo je baš dugačko,
bilo je baš dugačko,
02:45
and one I've seen summarized
most succinctly here
most succinctly here
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i sumirao sam ga veoma koncizno
02:48
on the hallowed pages
of Business Insider Malaysia.
of Business Insider Malaysia.
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na svetim stranama
malezijskog "Biznis insajdera".
malezijskog "Biznis insajdera".
02:52
["Two Explorers Just Completed A Polar Expedition
That Killed Everyone The Last Time It Was Attempted"]
That Killed Everyone The Last Time It Was Attempted"]
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["Dva polarna istraživača završila put
na kome su poslednjeg puta svi stradali"]
na kome su poslednjeg puta svi stradali"]
02:58
Chris Hadfield talked so eloquently
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Kris Hedfild je tako rečito govorio
03:00
about fear and about the odds of success,
and indeed the odds of survival.
and indeed the odds of survival.
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o strahu i o šansama za uspeh,
i zaista, o šansama da preživite.
i zaista, o šansama da preživite.
03:06
Of the nine people in history that had
attempted this journey before us,
attempted this journey before us,
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Od devet ljudi koji su pokušali
ovo putovanje pre nas,
ovo putovanje pre nas,
03:10
none had made it to the pole and back,
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niko nije stigao do pola i nazad,
03:12
and five had died in the process.
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a petoro ih je umrlo dok su pokušavali.
03:16
This is Captain Robert Falcon Scott.
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Ovo je kapetan Robert Falkon Skot.
03:19
He led the last team
to attempt this expedition.
to attempt this expedition.
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Vodio je poslednji tim
koji je pokušao ovu ekspediciju.
koji je pokušao ovu ekspediciju.
03:22
Scott and his rival Sir Ernest Shackleton,
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Skot i njegov protivnik,
ser Ernest Šeklton,
ser Ernest Šeklton,
03:24
over the space of a decade,
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u rasponu od decenije,
03:27
both led expeditions battling to become
the first to reach the South Pole,
the first to reach the South Pole,
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vodili su ekspedicije koje su se borile
da budu prve na Južnom polu,
da budu prve na Južnom polu,
03:31
to chart and map
the interior of Antarctica,
the interior of Antarctica,
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da iscrtaju i stave na mapu
unutrašnjost Antarktika,
unutrašnjost Antarktika,
03:34
a place we knew less about, at the time,
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mesto o kojem smo tada znali manje
03:36
than the surface of the moon,
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nego o površini meseca,
03:38
because we could see
the moon through telescopes.
the moon through telescopes.
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jer smo mesec mogli da vidimo
kroz teleskope.
kroz teleskope.
03:40
Antarctica was, for the most part,
a century ago, uncharted.
a century ago, uncharted.
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Veći deo Antarktika je pre jednog veka
bio neistražen.
bio neistražen.
03:44
Some of you may know the story.
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Neki od vas možda znaju priču.
03:46
Scott's last expedition, the
Terra Nova Expedition in 1910,
Terra Nova Expedition in 1910,
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Skotova poslednja ekspedicija,
Tera nova iz 1910. godine,
Tera nova iz 1910. godine,
03:49
started as a giant
siege-style approach.
siege-style approach.
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počela je kao veliki
poduhvat nalik opsadi.
poduhvat nalik opsadi.
03:51
He had a big team using ponies,
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Imao je veliki tim
koji je koristio ponije,
koji je koristio ponije,
03:54
using dogs, using petrol-driven tractors,
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pse, traktore na benzin,
03:56
dropping multiple, pre-positioned
depots of food and fuel
depots of food and fuel
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ispuštao višestruke isplanirane
depoe hrane i goriva
depoe hrane i goriva
04:00
through which Scott's final team of five
would travel to the Pole,
would travel to the Pole,
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kroz koje bi Skotov konačni petočlani tim
prošao na putu do pola,
prošao na putu do pola,
04:03
where they would turn around and ski
back to the coast again on foot.
back to the coast again on foot.
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gde bi se okrenuli i na skijama se,
peške, vratili do obale.
peške, vratili do obale.
04:07
Scott and his final team of five
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Skot i preostala petorica
04:09
arrived at the South Pole
in January 1912
in January 1912
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stigli su na Južni pol
januara 1912. godine
januara 1912. godine
04:13
to find they had been beaten to it
by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen,
by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen,
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da bi saznali da ih je pretekao
norveški tim Roalda Amundsena;
norveški tim Roalda Amundsena;
04:18
who rode on dogsled.
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koji je vozio saonice sa psima.
04:19
Scott's team ended up on foot.
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Skotov tim završio je peške.
04:21
And for more than a century
this journey has remained unfinished.
this journey has remained unfinished.
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I više od veka,
ovaj put je ostao nezavršen.
ovaj put je ostao nezavršen.
04:26
Scott's team of five died
on the return journey.
on the return journey.
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Skotov petočlani tim je
umro u povratku.
umro u povratku.
04:29
And for the last decade,
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I protekle decenije,
04:31
I've been asking myself why that is.
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pitao sam se zašto.
04:34
How come this has remained
the high-water mark?
the high-water mark?
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Kako da je to ostao vrhunac?
04:38
Scott's team covered 1,600 miles on foot.
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Skotov tim je prepešačio 2570 kilometara.
04:40
No one's come close to that ever since.
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Niko od tada nije došao ni blizu.
04:42
So this is the high-water mark
of human endurance,
of human endurance,
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Znači, ovo je vrhunac
ljudske izdržljivosti,
ljudske izdržljivosti,
04:45
human endeavor,
human athletic achievement
human athletic achievement
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ljudskih napora,
ljudskog atletskog dostignuća
ljudskog atletskog dostignuća
04:47
in arguably the harshest climate on Earth.
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u verovatno najokrutnijoj klimi na Zemlji.
04:50
It was as if the marathon record
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Kao da je rekord za maraton
04:53
has remained unbroken since 1912.
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neoboren od 1912.
04:56
And of course some strange and
predictable combination of curiosity,
predictable combination of curiosity,
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I naravno, neka čudna
i predvidiva kombinacija znatiželje,
i predvidiva kombinacija znatiželje,
05:01
stubbornness, and probably hubris
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tvrdoglavosti i verovatno arogancije,
05:03
led me to thinking I might be the man
to try to finish the job.
to try to finish the job.
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naterala me je da mislim
da mogu biti taj koji će završiti posao.
da mogu biti taj koji će završiti posao.
05:07
Unlike Scott's expedition,
there were just two of us,
there were just two of us,
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Za razliku od Skotove ekspedicije,
bili smo samo nas dvojica,
bili smo samo nas dvojica,
05:10
and we set off from the coast
of Antarctica in October last year,
of Antarctica in October last year,
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i krenuli smo sa obale Antarktika
u oktobru prošle godine,
u oktobru prošle godine,
05:13
dragging everything ourselves,
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tegleći sve sami,
05:16
a process Scott called "man-hauling."
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proces koji je Skot nazivao
"ljudska vuča".
"ljudska vuča".
05:18
When I say it was like walking from
here to San Francisco and back,
here to San Francisco and back,
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Kada kažem da je to kao pešačiti
do San Franciska i nazad,
do San Franciska i nazad,
05:21
I actually mean it was like dragging
something that weighs a shade more
something that weighs a shade more
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zapravo mislim - kao vući
nešto za dlaku teže
nešto za dlaku teže
05:25
than the heaviest ever NFL player.
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od najtežeg igrača američkog fudbala.
05:27
Our sledges weighed 200 kilos,
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Naše saonice su težile 200 kilograma,
05:29
or 440 pounds each at the start,
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odnosno, na početku, 440 funti svaka,
05:32
the same weights that the weakest
of Scott's ponies pulled.
of Scott's ponies pulled.
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iste težine koje je vukao
najslabiji Skotov poni.
najslabiji Skotov poni.
05:37
Early on, we averaged 0.5 miles per hour.
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Na početku, u proseku
smo prelazili 0,8 kilometara na sat.
smo prelazili 0,8 kilometara na sat.
05:40
Perhaps the reason no one had
attempted this journey until now,
attempted this journey until now,
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Možda se niko do sada
nije odvažio na ovaj put,
nije odvažio na ovaj put,
05:43
in more than a century,
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već duže od veka,
05:45
was that no one had been quite
stupid enough to try.
stupid enough to try.
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zato što niko nije bio
dovoljno lud da pokuša.
dovoljno lud da pokuša.
05:50
And while I can't claim we were exploring
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Iako ne mogu da tvrdim
da smo istraživali
da smo istraživali
05:52
in the genuine Edwardian
sense of the word —
sense of the word —
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u pravom edvardijanskom
smislu te reči -
smislu te reči -
05:55
we weren't naming any mountains
or mapping any uncharted valleys —
or mapping any uncharted valleys —
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nismo krstili planine ni ucrtavali
neistražene doline na mape -
neistražene doline na mape -
05:59
I think we were stepping into uncharted
territory in a human sense.
territory in a human sense.
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mislim da smo zagazili
u neistražene predele u ljudskom smislu.
u neistražene predele u ljudskom smislu.
06:03
Certainly, if in the future we learn
there is an area of the human brain
there is an area of the human brain
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Svakako, ako u budućnosti saznamo
da postoji deo ljudskog mozga
da postoji deo ljudskog mozga
06:06
that lights up when one curses oneself,
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koji se pali kada
psuješ sam sebe,
psuješ sam sebe,
06:10
I won't be at all surprised.
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neću se uopšte iznenaditi.
06:13
You've heard that the average American
spends 90 percent of their time indoors.
spends 90 percent of their time indoors.
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Čuli ste da prosečan Amerikanac provodi
90 odsto vremena u zatvorenom prostoru.
90 odsto vremena u zatvorenom prostoru.
06:17
We didn't go indoors
for nearly four months.
for nearly four months.
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Mi smo bili napolju
skoro četiri meseca.
skoro četiri meseca.
06:21
We didn't see a sunset either.
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Nismo videli ni zalazak sunca.
06:23
It was 24-hour daylight.
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24 sata je bio dan.
06:25
Living conditions were quite spartan.
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Životni uslovi su bili
prilično spartanski.
prilično spartanski.
06:27
I changed my underwear
three times in 105 days
three times in 105 days
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U 105 dana, gaće sam presvukao
tri puta
tri puta
06:32
and Tarka and I shared
30 square feet on the canvas.
30 square feet on the canvas.
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a Tarka i ja smo delili
2,7 kvadratnih metara platna.
2,7 kvadratnih metara platna.
06:36
Though we did have some technology
that Scott could never have imagined.
that Scott could never have imagined.
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Mada, imali smo tehnologiju
koju Skot ne bi nikada ni zamislio.
koju Skot ne bi nikada ni zamislio.
06:40
And we blogged live every evening
from the tent via a laptop
from the tent via a laptop
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Svako veče smo uživo blogovali
iz šatora, preko laptopa
iz šatora, preko laptopa
06:44
and a custom-made satellite transmitter,
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i posebno urađenog
satelitskog odašiljača,
satelitskog odašiljača,
06:46
all of which were solar-powered:
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a sve to na solarni pogon:
06:48
we had a flexible photovoltaic
panel over the tent.
panel over the tent.
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prilagodljiv fotonaponski panel
bio je nad šatorom.
bio je nad šatorom.
06:50
And the writing was important to me.
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I pisanje mi je bilo važno.
06:53
As a kid, I was inspired by the
literature of adventure and exploration,
literature of adventure and exploration,
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Kao malog, inspirisala me je
avanturistička i istraživačka književnost,
avanturistička i istraživačka književnost,
07:00
and I think we've all seen
here this week
here this week
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i mislim da smo svi
ove nedelje ovde videli
ove nedelje ovde videli
07:03
the importance and
the power of storytelling.
the power of storytelling.
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važnost i moć priče.
07:07
So we had some 21st-century gear,
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1816
Dakle, imali smo opremu 21. veka,
07:09
but the reality is that the
challenges that Scott faced
challenges that Scott faced
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ali u stvarnosti,
izazovi sa kojima se Skot suočavao
izazovi sa kojima se Skot suočavao
07:11
were the same that we faced:
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bili su i naši:
07:13
those of the weather and of
what Scott called glide,
what Scott called glide,
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vremenski uslovi
i ono što je Skot nazivao klizanje,
i ono što je Skot nazivao klizanje,
07:17
the amount of friction between
the sledges and the snow.
the sledges and the snow.
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količina trenja između
saonica i snega.
saonica i snega.
07:20
The lowest wind chill
we experienced was in the -70s,
we experienced was in the -70s,
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Najhladniji vetar koji smo iskusili bio je
od oko minus 70-ak stepeni,
od oko minus 70-ak stepeni,
07:24
and we had zero visibility,
what's called white-out,
what's called white-out,
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a vidljivost je bila na nuli,
ono što se zove belinom,
ono što se zove belinom,
07:27
for much of our journey.
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većinu putovanja.
07:30
We traveled up and down one of the largest
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2351
Putovali smo uzduž i popreko
jednim od najvećih
jednim od najvećih
07:32
and most dangerous glaciers
in the world, the Beardmore glacier.
in the world, the Beardmore glacier.
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i najopasnijih glečera na svetu,
glečerom Birdmor.
glečerom Birdmor.
07:35
It's 110 miles long; most of its surface
is what's called blue ice.
is what's called blue ice.
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Dug je 177 kilometara; na većini površine
je takozvani plavi led.
je takozvani plavi led.
07:39
You can see it's a beautiful,
shimmering steel-hard blue surface
shimmering steel-hard blue surface
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Možete videti da je to prelepa,
blistava plava površina, tvrda kao čelik
blistava plava površina, tvrda kao čelik
07:42
covered with thousands
and thousands of crevasses,
and thousands of crevasses,
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prekrivena hiljadama
i hiljadama pukotina,
i hiljadama pukotina,
07:46
these deep cracks in the glacial ice
up to 200 feet deep.
up to 200 feet deep.
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te duboke naprsline u glečeru
sežu i do 60 metara.
sežu i do 60 metara.
07:50
Planes can't land here,
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Tu ne mogu da sleću avioni,
07:52
so we were at the most risk,
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3460
pa smo najviše bili
izloženi riziku,
izloženi riziku,
07:55
technically, when we had the slimmest
chance of being rescued.
chance of being rescued.
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praktično, kada smo imali
najmanje šanse da nas spasu.
najmanje šanse da nas spasu.
08:00
We got to the South Pole
after 61 days on foot,
after 61 days on foot,
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Stigli smo do Južnog pola
nakon 61 dana pešačenja,
nakon 61 dana pešačenja,
08:04
with one day off for bad weather,
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sa danom zakašnjenja
zbog lošeg vremena,
zbog lošeg vremena,
08:06
and I'm sad to say, it was
something of an anticlimax.
something of an anticlimax.
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i žao mi je da kažem,
bilo je antiklimaktično.
bilo je antiklimaktično.
08:09
There's a permanent American base,
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2465
Postoji stalna američka baza,
08:11
the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station
at the South Pole.
at the South Pole.
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3318
stanica Amundsen-Skot
na Južnom polu.
na Južnom polu.
08:15
They have an airstrip,
they have a canteen,
they have a canteen,
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1951
Imaju avionsku pistu,
imaju kantinu,
imaju kantinu,
08:16
they have hot showers,
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imaju tuševe sa
toplom vodom,
toplom vodom,
08:18
they have a post office, a tourist shop,
149
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1905
imaju poštu, suvenirnicu,
08:20
a basketball court that doubles
as a movie theater.
as a movie theater.
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teren za košarku koji je ujedno
i bioskopska sala.
i bioskopska sala.
08:24
So it's a bit different these days,
151
492091
1975
Dakle, ovih dana je malo drugačije,
08:26
and there are also acres of junk.
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a ima i gomila đubreta.
08:27
I think it's a marvelous thing
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1430
Mislim da je čudesna stvar
08:29
that humans can exist
365 days of the year
365 days of the year
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5284
to što ljudi mogu da
postoje 365 dana u godini
postoje 365 dana u godini
08:34
with hamburgers and hot showers
and movie theaters,
and movie theaters,
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3545
uz hamburgere i vruć tuš
i bioskope,
i bioskope,
ali izgleda da posle imamo
mnogo praznih kartonskih kutija.
mnogo praznih kartonskih kutija.
08:38
but it does seem to produce
a lot of empty cardboard boxes.
a lot of empty cardboard boxes.
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2756
08:40
You can see on the left of
this photograph,
this photograph,
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2062
Na levoj strani ove slike
možete videti
možete videti
08:42
several square acres of junk
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1435
više jutara smeća
08:44
waiting to be flown out
from the South Pole.
from the South Pole.
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2513
koju će avionom
odneti sa Južnog Pola.
odneti sa Južnog Pola.
08:46
But there is also a pole at the South Pole,
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4032
Ali i na Južnom polu
postoji pol,
postoji pol,
08:50
and we got there on foot, unassisted,
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i tamo smo stigli peške,
bez podrške,
bez podrške,
08:54
unsupported, by the hardest route,
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1646
bez pomoći, najtežom putanjom,
08:55
900 miles in record time,
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1450 kilometara za rekordno vreme,
08:58
dragging more weight
than anyone in history.
than anyone in history.
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2048
vukući više tereta
od bilo koga u istoriji.
od bilo koga u istoriji.
09:00
And if we'd stopped there
and flown home,
and flown home,
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528364
1969
I da smo se tu zaustavili
i odleteli kući,
i odleteli kući,
09:02
which would have been
the eminently sensible thing to do,
the eminently sensible thing to do,
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3134
što bi bilo prilično razumno,
09:05
then my talk would end here
167
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1881
moj govor bi se ovde završio
09:07
and it would end something like this.
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3590
i to ovako nekako.
09:10
If you have the right team around you,
the right tools, the right technology,
the right tools, the right technology,
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4805
Ako oko sebe imaš pravi tim,
pravi alat, pravu tehnologiju,
pravi alat, pravu tehnologiju,
09:15
and if you have enough self-belief
and enough determination,
and enough determination,
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3738
i ako imaš dovoljno vere u sebe
i dovoljno odlučnosti,
i dovoljno odlučnosti,
09:19
then anything is possible.
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3445
onda je sve moguće.
09:24
But then we turned around,
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2633
Ali onda smo se okrenuli,
09:27
and this is where things get interesting.
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2759
i tu stvari počinju
da budu zanimljive.
da budu zanimljive.
09:30
High on the Antarctic plateau,
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2794
Visoko na visoravni Antarktika,
09:32
over 10,000 feet, it's very windy,
very cold, very dry, we were exhausted.
very cold, very dry, we were exhausted.
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3999
preko 3000 metara, jako je vetrovito,
hladno i suvo, bili smo iscrpljeni.
hladno i suvo, bili smo iscrpljeni.
09:36
We'd covered 35 marathons,
176
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1870
Prešli smo 35 maratona,
09:38
we were only halfway,
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1586
prešli samo pola puta,
09:40
and we had a safety net, of course,
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2031
i, naravno, imali smo sigurnosnu mrežu
09:42
of ski planes and satellite phones
179
570328
2124
skijaških aviona
i satelitskih telefona
i satelitskih telefona
09:44
and live, 24-hour tracking beacons
that didn't exist for Scott,
that didn't exist for Scott,
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4053
i svetionika koji vas uživo prate 24 sata
koje Skot nije imao,
koje Skot nije imao,
09:48
but in hindsight,
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1742
ali kada razmislim unazad,
09:50
rather than making our lives easier,
182
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2066
više nego da nam olakša život,
09:52
the safety net actually allowed us
183
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2159
sigurnosna mreža nam je zapravo dozvolila
09:54
to cut things very fine indeed,
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3855
da budemo na ivici noža,
09:58
to sail very close to our absolute
limits as human beings.
limits as human beings.
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3767
da jedrimo veoma blizu
apsolutnih granica čoveka.
apsolutnih granica čoveka.
10:02
And it is an exquisite form of torture
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3473
I to je izuzetan oblik mučenja,
10:05
to exhaust yourself to the point
of starvation day after day
of starvation day after day
187
593577
2837
iscrpeti sebe do tačke umiranja od gladi
dan za danom
dan za danom
10:08
while dragging a sledge
full of food.
full of food.
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596414
4262
dok za sobom vučete
saonice pune hrane.
saonice pune hrane.
10:12
For years, I'd been writing glib lines
in sponsorship proposals
in sponsorship proposals
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600686
3927
Godinama sam pisao izlizane fraze
potencijalnim sponzorima
potencijalnim sponzorima
10:16
about pushing the limits
of human endurance,
of human endurance,
190
604613
3111
o pomeranju granica
ljudske izdržljivosti,
ljudske izdržljivosti,
10:19
but in reality, that was
a very frightening place to be indeed.
a very frightening place to be indeed.
191
607724
4412
ali u stvarnosti, veoma je strašno
biti u toj poziciji.
biti u toj poziciji.
10:24
We had, before we'd got to the Pole,
192
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1909
Pre dolaska na Pol, imali smo
10:26
two weeks of almost permanent
headwind, which slowed us down.
headwind, which slowed us down.
193
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3464
dve nedelje skoro neprekidnog
direktnog vetra, što nas je usporavalo.
direktnog vetra, što nas je usporavalo.
10:29
As a result, we'd had several days
of eating half rations.
of eating half rations.
194
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2650
Kao rezultat, nekoliko dana
jeli smo pola porcija.
jeli smo pola porcija.
10:32
We had a finite amount of food
in the sledges to make this journey,
in the sledges to make this journey,
195
620159
2719
Imali smo ograničenu količinu hrane
u sankama za ovaj put,
u sankama za ovaj put,
10:34
so we were trying to string that out
196
622878
2002
pa smo pokušali da je razvučemo
10:36
by reducing our intake to half
the calories we should have been eating.
the calories we should have been eating.
197
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3913
smanjujući unos na polovinu kalorija
koje treba da pojedemo.
koje treba da pojedemo.
10:40
As a result, we both became
increasingly hypoglycemic —
increasingly hypoglycemic —
198
628793
3619
Kao posledica toga, obojica smo
imali hipoglikemiju -
imali hipoglikemiju -
10:44
we had low blood sugar
levels day after day —
levels day after day —
199
632412
2824
danima smo imali
nizak nivo šećera u krvi -
nizak nivo šećera u krvi -
10:47
and increasingly susceptible
to the extreme cold.
to the extreme cold.
200
635236
4758
i neverovatno smo bili podložni
ekstremnoj hladnoći.
ekstremnoj hladnoći.
10:51
Tarka took this photo of me one evening
201
639994
2103
Tarka me je jedne večeri slikao ovde
nakon što sam se skoro onesvestio
od hipotermije.
od hipotermije.
10:54
after I'd nearly passed out
with hypothermia.
with hypothermia.
202
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2130
10:56
We both had repeated bouts of hypothermia,
something I hadn't experienced before,
something I hadn't experienced before,
203
644227
4808
Obojica smo imali nalete hipotermije,
nečega što do tad nismo iskusili
nečega što do tad nismo iskusili
11:01
and it was very humbling indeed.
204
649035
1711
i bilo je veoma ponižavajuće.
11:02
As much as you might
like to think, as I do,
like to think, as I do,
205
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3668
Koliko god vi mislili, kao ja,
11:06
that you're the kind
of person who doesn't quit,
of person who doesn't quit,
206
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2256
da niste takva osoba koja odustaje,
11:08
that you'll go down swinging,
207
656670
1994
da ćete otići boreći se,
11:10
hypothermia doesn't leave you much choice.
208
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2252
hipotermija vam ne ostavlja puno izbora.
11:12
You become utterly incapacitated.
209
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2810
Postajete potpuno ošamućeni.
11:15
It's like being a drunk toddler.
210
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3181
To je kao da ste pijano nedonošče.
11:18
You become pathetic.
211
666907
1973
Postajete patetični.
11:20
I remember just wanting
to lie down and quit.
to lie down and quit.
212
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4119
Sećam se da sam samo hteo
da legnem i odustanem.
da legnem i odustanem.
11:24
It was a peculiar, peculiar feeling,
213
672999
2174
Bio je to jedinstven osećaj,
11:27
and a real surprise to me
to be debilitated to that degree.
to be debilitated to that degree.
214
675173
5239
i pravo iznenađenje za mene
da budem toliko devastiran.
da budem toliko devastiran.
11:32
And then we ran out of food completely,
215
680412
4482
Onda nam je potpuno nestalo hrane,
11:36
46 miles short of the first of the depots
216
684894
3458
75 kilometara od prve stanice
koju smo postavili na svom putu do tamo.
11:40
that we'd laid on our outward journey.
217
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1865
11:42
We'd laid 10 depots of food,
218
690217
1343
Postavili smo 10 stanica sa hranom,
11:43
literally burying food and fuel,
for our return journey —
for our return journey —
219
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2717
bukvalno smo zakopavali hranu i gorivo
za povratak -
za povratak -
11:46
the fuel was for a cooker so you
could melt snow to get water —
could melt snow to get water —
220
694277
3277
gorivo je bilo za rešo
da bismo topili sneg i dobili vodu -
da bismo topili sneg i dobili vodu -
11:49
and I was forced to make the decision
to call for a resupply flight,
to call for a resupply flight,
221
697554
5807
i bio sam primoran da donesem odluku
i zatražim avion sa zalihama,
i zatražim avion sa zalihama,
11:55
a ski plane carrying eight days of food
to tide us over that gap.
to tide us over that gap.
222
703361
4569
skijaški avion sa hranom za osam dana
kako bismo prebrodili tu rupu.
kako bismo prebrodili tu rupu.
11:59
They took 12 hours to reach us
from the other side of Antarctica.
from the other side of Antarctica.
223
707930
3359
Trebalo im je 12 sati da dođu do nas
sa druge strane Antarktika.
sa druge strane Antarktika.
12:03
Calling for that plane was one of
the toughest decisions of my life.
the toughest decisions of my life.
224
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3709
Kada sam pozvao taj avion, bila je to
jedna od najtežih odluka u mom životu.
jedna od najtežih odluka u mom životu.
12:06
And I sound like a bit of a fraud
standing here now with a sort of belly.
standing here now with a sort of belly.
225
714998
3476
Pomalo zvučim kao prevarant,
stojeći ovde sa stomačićem.
stojeći ovde sa stomačićem.
12:10
I've put on 30 pounds
in the last three weeks.
in the last three weeks.
226
718474
2840
Ugojio sam se 13 kilograma
u poslednje tri nedelje.
u poslednje tri nedelje.
12:13
Being that hungry has left
an interesting mental scar,
an interesting mental scar,
227
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3075
Tolika glad je na mene ostavila
zanimljiv mentalni ožiljak,
zanimljiv mentalni ožiljak,
12:16
which is that I've been hoovering up
every hotel buffet that I can find.
every hotel buffet that I can find.
228
724389
4607
a to je da sam kao usisivač unosio hranu
u svakom hotelu gde sam bio.
u svakom hotelu gde sam bio.
12:20
(Laughter)
229
728996
1778
(Smeh)
12:22
But we were genuinely quite hungry,
and in quite a bad way.
and in quite a bad way.
230
730774
5694
Ali uopšte smo bili veoma gladni,
i to prilično.
i to prilično.
12:28
I don't regret calling
for that plane for a second,
for that plane for a second,
231
736468
2441
Ne žalim ni sekunde
što sam zvao taj avion,
što sam zvao taj avion,
12:30
because I'm still standing here alive,
232
738909
2002
jer sam još uvek živ i netaknut
12:32
with all digits intact,
telling this story.
telling this story.
233
740911
2060
i pričam ovu priču.
12:34
But getting external assistance like that
was never part of the plan,
was never part of the plan,
234
742971
4738
Ali takva pomoć sa strane
nikada nije bila deo plana
nikada nije bila deo plana
12:39
and it's something my ego
is still struggling with.
is still struggling with.
235
747709
3204
i moj ego se još uvek bori s time.
12:42
This was the biggest dream I've ever had,
236
750913
3042
Ovo je najveći san koji sam ikad imao
12:45
and it was so nearly perfect.
237
753955
2092
i bio je skoro savršen.
12:48
On the way back down to the coast,
238
756967
1681
U povratku do obale,
12:50
our crampons — they're
the spikes on our boots
the spikes on our boots
239
758648
2191
naši kramponi - šiljci na čizmama
12:52
that we have for traveling
over this blue ice on the glacier —
over this blue ice on the glacier —
240
760839
2926
za putovanje
preko plavog leda na glečeru -
preko plavog leda na glečeru -
12:55
broke on the top of the Beardmore.
241
763765
1655
polomili su se na vrhu Birdmora.
12:57
We still had 100 miles to go downhill
242
765420
1765
Još uvek smo ima 160 kilometara nizbrdo
12:59
on very slippery rock-hard blue ice.
243
767185
2234
na veoma čvrstom i klizavom plavom ledu.
13:01
They needed repairing almost every hour.
244
769419
2391
Skoro svakog sata smo morali
da ih popravljamo.
da ih popravljamo.
13:03
To give you an idea of scale,
245
771810
1951
Čisto razmere radi,
13:05
this is looking down towards the mouth
of the Beardmore Glacier.
of the Beardmore Glacier.
246
773761
2997
ovo je pogled ka grotlu glečera Birdmor.
13:08
You could fit the entirety of Manhattan
in the gap on the horizon.
in the gap on the horizon.
247
776758
3475
U šupljinu na horizontu
mogli ste smestiti ceo Menhetn.
mogli ste smestiti ceo Menhetn.
13:12
That's 20 miles between
Mount Hope and Mount Kiffin.
Mount Hope and Mount Kiffin.
248
780233
3214
To je 32 kilometra
između planina Houp i Kifin.
između planina Houp i Kifin.
13:15
I've never felt as small
as I did in Antarctica.
as I did in Antarctica.
249
783447
6233
Nikada se nisam osećao tako malo
kao na Antarktiku.
kao na Antarktiku.
13:21
When we got down
to the mouth of the glacier,
to the mouth of the glacier,
250
789680
2105
Kada smo se spustili do grotla glečera,
13:23
we found fresh snow had obscured
the dozens of deep crevasses.
the dozens of deep crevasses.
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otkrili smo da je svež sneg prikrio
desetine dubokih šupljina.
desetine dubokih šupljina.
13:28
One of Shackleton's men described
crossing this sort of terrain
crossing this sort of terrain
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Jedan od Šekltonovih ljudi opisao je
prelazak ovakvog terena
prelazak ovakvog terena
13:31
as like walking over the glass roof
of a railway station.
of a railway station.
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kao hodanje preko staklenog krova
na železničkoj stanici.
na železničkoj stanici.
13:36
We fell through more times
than I can remember,
than I can remember,
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Propali smo toliko puta
da ne mogu ni da se setim,
da ne mogu ni da se setim,
13:39
usually just putting a ski
or a boot through the snow.
or a boot through the snow.
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obično samo stavljanjem skije
ili čizme kroz sneg.
ili čizme kroz sneg.
13:42
Occasionally we went in all
the way up to our armpits,
the way up to our armpits,
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Povremeno bismo upali sve do pazuha,
13:45
but thankfully never deeper than that.
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ali srećom, nikada više od toga.
13:48
And less than five weeks ago,
after 105 days,
after 105 days,
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I pre manje od pet nedelja,
nakon 105 dana,
nakon 105 dana,
13:52
we crossed this oddly
inauspicious finish line,
inauspicious finish line,
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prešli smo neverovatno zlokobni cilj,
13:56
the coast of Ross Island
on the New Zealand side of Antarctica.
on the New Zealand side of Antarctica.
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obalu ostrva Ros sa strane Antarktika
ka Novom Zelandu.
ka Novom Zelandu.
13:59
You can see the ice in the foreground
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U prvom planu možete videti sneg
14:01
and the sort of rubbly rock behind that.
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i stene iza.
14:04
Behind us lay an unbroken
ski trail of nearly 1,800 miles.
ski trail of nearly 1,800 miles.
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Iza nas je neisprekidana skijaška staza
od skoro 2900 kilometara.
od skoro 2900 kilometara.
14:08
We'd made the longest ever
polar journey on foot,
polar journey on foot,
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Prošli smo najduže
polarno putovanje peške,
polarno putovanje peške,
14:10
something I'd been dreaming
of doing for a decade.
of doing for a decade.
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o čemu sam sanjao deceniju.
14:15
And looking back,
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Gledajući unazad,
14:17
I still stand by all the things
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još uvek stojim iza stvari
14:19
I've been saying for years
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koje sam godinama govorio
14:21
about the importance of goals
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o važnosti ciljeva
14:23
and determination and self-belief,
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i odlučnosti i veri u sebe
14:26
but I'll also admit that I hadn't given
much thought to what happens
much thought to what happens
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ali priznajem da nisam puno razmišljao
o tome šta se dešava
o tome šta se dešava
14:31
when you reach the all-consuming goal
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kada dođete do cilja koji vas obuzima
14:35
that you've dedicated
most of your adult life to,
most of your adult life to,
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i kome ste posvetili
većinu odraslog života
većinu odraslog života
14:38
and the reality is that I'm
still figuring that bit out.
still figuring that bit out.
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i zapravo još uvek razabiram taj deo.
14:42
As I said, there are very few
superficial signs that I've been away.
superficial signs that I've been away.
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Kao što sam rekao, postoji mali broj
površnih znakova da sam otišao.
površnih znakova da sam otišao.
14:45
I've put on 30 pounds.
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Ugojio sam se 14 kilograma.
14:47
I've got some very faint, probably
covered in makeup now, frostbite scars.
covered in makeup now, frostbite scars.
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Imam veoma blage ožiljke od promrzlina,
koji su sada verovatno prekriveni šminkom.
koji su sada verovatno prekriveni šminkom.
14:50
I've got one on my nose, one on
each cheek, from where the goggles are,
each cheek, from where the goggles are,
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Jedan na nosu, po jedan na obrazima,
od naočari,
od naočari,
14:54
but inside I am a very
different person indeed.
different person indeed.
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ali iznutra sam veoma drugačija osoba.
14:59
If I'm honest,
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Da budem iskren,
15:01
Antarctica challenged me
and humbled me so deeply
and humbled me so deeply
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Antarktik me je izazvao
i učinio tako skromnim
i učinio tako skromnim
15:06
that I'm not sure I'll ever be able
to put it into words.
to put it into words.
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da nisam siguran da ću ikada moći
to da predstavim rečima.
to da predstavim rečima.
15:10
I'm still struggling to piece
together my thoughts.
together my thoughts.
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Još uvek se borim da saberem misli.
15:14
That I'm standing here
telling this story
telling this story
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To što stojim ovde
i iznosim ovu priču
i iznosim ovu priču
15:18
is proof that we all can
accomplish great things,
accomplish great things,
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dokaz je da svi možemo da postignemo
velike stvari,
velike stvari,
15:23
through ambition, through passion,
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kroz ambiciju, strast,
15:25
through sheer stubbornness,
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puku tvrdoglavost,
15:27
by refusing to quit,
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odbijajući da odustanemo,
15:28
that if you dream something
hard enough, as Sting said,
hard enough, as Sting said,
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da ako nešto sanjate dovoljno jako,
kao što je rekao Sting,
kao što je rekao Sting,
15:31
it does indeed come to pass.
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to se zaista i ostvari.
15:34
But I'm also standing here
saying, you know what,
saying, you know what,
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3346
Ali ovde stojim i govorim, znate šta,
15:38
that cliche about the journey being
more important than the destination?
more important than the destination?
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taj kliše da je putovanje
bitnije od odredišta?
bitnije od odredišta?
15:44
There's something in that.
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Ima nečega u tome.
15:47
The closer I got to my finish line,
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Što sam bliži bio svom cilju,
15:49
that rubbly, rocky coast of Ross Island,
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krševitoj, stenovitoj obali ostrva Ros,
15:53
the more I started to realize
that the biggest lesson
that the biggest lesson
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sve sam više shvatao da je najveća lekcija
15:56
that this very long, very hard walk
might be teaching me
might be teaching me
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kojoj me je naučila
ova veoma duga i teška šetnja
ova veoma duga i teška šetnja
16:01
is that happiness is not
a finish line,
a finish line,
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je da sreća nije u odredištu,
16:05
that for us humans,
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da je za nas ljude
16:06
the perfection that so many of
us seem to dream of
us seem to dream of
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to savršenstvo o kojima mnogi sanjamo
16:10
might not ever be truly attainable,
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možda zapravo nedostižno,
16:14
and that if we can't feel content
here, today, now, on our journeys
here, today, now, on our journeys
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i da ako ne možemo biti zadovoljni
ovde, danas, sada, na svojim putovanjima,
ovde, danas, sada, na svojim putovanjima,
16:22
amidst the mess and the striving
that we all inhabit,
that we all inhabit,
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u neredu i težnji koja nas sve prožima,
16:27
the open loops,
the half-finished to-do lists,
the half-finished to-do lists,
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sa otvorenim petljama,
poluzavršenim spiskovima,
poluzavršenim spiskovima,
16:29
the could-do-better-next-times,
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osećanjem da će drugi put biti bolje,
16:32
then we might never feel it.
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onda to nikad nećemo osetiti.
16:36
A lot of people have asked me, what next?
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Mnogi su me pitali, a šta sada?
16:39
Right now, I am very happy just recovering
and in front of hotel buffets.
and in front of hotel buffets.
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Sada sam veoma srećan da se oporavljam
u hotelskim restoranima.
u hotelskim restoranima.
16:46
But as Bob Hope put it,
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Ali kao što reče Bob Houp,
16:50
I feel very humble,
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osećam se veoma skromno,
16:53
but I think I have the strength
of character to fight it. (Laughter)
of character to fight it. (Laughter)
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ali mislim da imam snage i karaktera
da se borim protiv toga. (Smeh)
da se borim protiv toga. (Smeh)
16:57
Thank you.
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Hvala vam.
16:59
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Ben Saunders - Polar explorerIn 2004, Ben Saunders became the youngest person ever to ski solo to the North Pole. In 2013, he set out on another record-breaking expedition, this time to retrace Captain Scott’s ill-fated journey to the South Pole on foot.
Why you should listen
Although most of the planet's surface was mapped long ago, there's still a place for explorers in the modern world. And Ben Saunders' stories of arctic exploration -- as impressive for their technical ingenuity as their derring-do -- are decidedly modern. In 2004, at age 26, he skied solo to the North Pole, updating his blog each day of the trip. Humble and self-effacing, Saunders is an explorer of limits, whether it's how far a human can be pushed physically and psychologically, or how technology works hundreds of miles from civilization. His message is one of inspiration, empowerment and boundless potential.
He urges audiences to consider carefully how to spend the “tiny amount of time we each have on this planet.” Saunders is also a powerful advocate for the natural world. He's seen first-hand the effects of climate change, and his expeditions are raising awareness for sustainable solutions.
Being the youngest person to ski solo to the North Pole did not satiate Saunders' urge to explore and push the boundaries. In 2008, he attempted to break the speed record for a solo walk to the North Pole; however, his journey was ended abruptly both then and again in 2010 due to equipment failure. From October 2013 to February 2014, he led a two-man team to retrace Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s ill-fated 1,800-mile expedition to the South Pole on foot. He calls this journey the hardest 105 days of his life.
Ben Saunders | Speaker | TED.com