TED@BCG Milan
Natsai Audrey Chieza: Fashion has a pollution problem -- can biology fix it?
纳塞·奥黛丽·基耶扎: 时尚带来的污染问题——生物能够解决吗？
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Readability: 6
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纳塞·奥黛丽·基耶扎（Natsai Audrey Chieza）是一位肩负使命的设计师——在创造令人惊奇的新服饰的同时减少时尚工业带来的污染。在她的实验室里，她注意到一种叫天蓝色链霉菌的细菌能够产生新奇的红紫色染料，现在她正在用其打造稳定且不会褪色的织物染料。与传统染料相比，新染料实现了减少水资源浪费和化工用水量的目的。在使用合成生物学来重新定义未来材料的道路上，她并非孤独的，试想——由蘑菇制成的“皮革”和使用蛛丝蛋白制成的超韧纺丝。基耶扎说，我们不会再依赖化石燃料来构造未来世界，我们将用生物技术去实现它。
Natsai Audrey Chieza - Designer
Natsai Audrey Chieza is a trans-disciplinary design researcher whose fascinating work crosses boundaries between technology, biology, design and cultural studies. Full bio
Natsai Audrey Chieza is a trans-disciplinary design researcher whose fascinating work crosses boundaries between technology, biology, design and cultural studies. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
You're watching the life cycle
of a Streptomyces coelicolor.
of a Streptomyces coelicolor.
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你们现在所看到的
是天蓝色链霉菌的生命周期。
是天蓝色链霉菌的生命周期。
00:17
It's a strain of bacteria
that's found in the soil
that's found in the soil
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这是一种在土壤里面发现的细菌，
00:19
where it lives in a community
with other organisms,
with other organisms,
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它和其他生命体共生，
来分解有机物质。
00:22
decomposing organic matter.
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00:24
Coelicolor is a beautiful organism.
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这种蓝色链霉菌是一种美丽的生命，
00:27
A powerhouse for synthesizing
organic chemical compounds.
organic chemical compounds.
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是合成有机化合物的重要“工厂”。
00:31
It produces an antibiotic
called actinorhodin,
called actinorhodin,
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它会产生一种名为
放线紫红素的抗生素，
放线紫红素的抗生素，
00:34
which ranges in color
from blue to pink and purple,
from blue to pink and purple,
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这种抗生素的颜色
会根据土壤的酸度，
会根据土壤的酸度，
00:38
depending on the acidity
of its environment.
of its environment.
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由蓝色到粉红色再到紫色之间变换。
00:41
That it produces these pigment molecules
sparked my curiosity
sparked my curiosity
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它产生这些色素分子的能力
激起了我的好奇，
激起了我的好奇，
00:45
and led me to collaborate
closely with coelicolor.
closely with coelicolor.
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也让我和这种酶链菌
开始了紧密的合作。
开始了紧密的合作。
00:48
It is an unlikely partnership,
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这是一种看似不可能的搭档关系，
00:50
but it's one that completely transformed
my practice as a materials designer.
my practice as a materials designer.
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但正是它让我彻底地成为了
一位实际意义上的材料设计师。
一位实际意义上的材料设计师。
00:55
From it, I understood how nature
was going to completely revolutionize
was going to completely revolutionize
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从这件事里，我明白了大自然
是怎样彻底变革
是怎样彻底变革
01:00
how we design and build our environments,
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我们对环境的设计和构造的，
01:02
and that organisms like coelicolor
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也明白了像链霉菌这样的生物，
01:05
were going to help us
grow our material future.
grow our material future.
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将会助力人类打造未来的材料。
01:08
So what's wrong with things as they are?
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那么，现有的材料有什么问题呢？
01:12
Well, for the last century,
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实际上，从上个世纪开始，
01:13
we've organized ourselves
around fossil fuels,
around fossil fuels,
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我们就围绕着化石燃料
组成了人类社会，
组成了人类社会，
01:17
arguably, the most valuable
material system we have ever known.
material system we have ever known.
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化石燃料可以说是我们所知道
的最有价值的材料系统。
的最有价值的材料系统。
01:20
We are tethered to this resource,
and we've crafted a dependency on it
and we've crafted a dependency on it
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我们离不开这种资源，
还对它产生了依赖，
还对它产生了依赖，
01:23
that defines our identities, cultures,
our ways of making and our economies.
our ways of making and our economies.
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这种依赖决定了我们的地位、文化，
以及我们生产制造的方式和我们的经济。
以及我们生产制造的方式和我们的经济。
01:29
But our fossil fuel-based activities
are reshaping the earth
are reshaping the earth
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但我们基于化石燃料
的种种活动正在重塑地球，
的种种活动正在重塑地球，
01:33
with a kind of violence that is capable
of dramatically changing the climate,
of dramatically changing the climate,
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通过一系列能够显著改变
气候的粗暴方式，
气候的粗暴方式，
01:38
of accelerating a loss of biodiversity
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我们使物种多样性的衰退加速，
01:41
and even sustaining human conflict.
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甚至激化了人与人之间的冲突。
01:44
We're living in a world
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我们生活在一个
01:45
where the denial of this dependence
has become deadly.
has become deadly.
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任何试图拒绝这种依赖的尝试
都是自取灭亡的世界中。
都是自取灭亡的世界中。
01:50
And its reasons are multiple,
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这种状况的成因有很多，
01:52
but they include the privilege
of not being affected
of not being affected
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但其中包括了我们免于受
其他物种干涉的特权，
其他物种干涉的特权，
01:56
and what I believe
is a profound lack of imagination
is a profound lack of imagination
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以及，在我看来，我们严重缺乏
02:00
about how else we could live
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对于如何在这个星球的限制下
02:02
within the limits
of this planet's boundaries.
of this planet's boundaries.
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进行生存繁衍的想象。
02:06
Fossil fuels will one day
give way to renewable energy.
give way to renewable energy.
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化石能源终究会被可再生能源所代替，
02:10
That means we need to find
new material systems
new material systems
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这就意味着我们需要找到一种全新的，
02:13
that are not petroleum-based.
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不是基于石油的物质体系。
02:15
I believe that those material systems
will be biological,
will be biological,
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我相信这个物质体系
将会是关于生物的，
将会是关于生物的，
02:19
but what matters
is how we design and build them.
is how we design and build them.
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但是真正重要的是如何去
设计和打造这些生物材料。
设计和打造这些生物材料。
02:22
They mustn't perpetuate
the destructive legacies of the oil age.
the destructive legacies of the oil age.
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它们不应继续延续
石油时代的破坏性遗存。
石油时代的破坏性遗存。
02:27
When you look at this image,
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当你们在看这幅图的时候，
02:30
what do you see?
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你们看到什么了？
02:33
Well, I see a highly sophisticated
biological system,
biological system,
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我看到了一个高度成熟的生物系统。
02:37
that through the use of enzymes,
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通过使用酶，
02:39
can move and place atoms
more quickly and precisely
more quickly and precisely
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这些生物能比我们人类
更快速和准确地
更快速和准确地
02:42
than anything we've ever engineered.
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移动和放置原子。
02:45
And we know that it can do this at scale.
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我们知道它还能规模化操作。
02:48
Nature has evolved over 3.8 billion years
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大自然进化了超过 38 亿年
02:51
to be able to do this,
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才能达到这样的地步，
02:53
but now through the use
of synthetic biology,
of synthetic biology,
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但是现在通过使用合成生物学——
02:56
an emerging scientific discipline
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一门新兴的科学，
02:58
that seeks to customize
this functionality of living systems,
this functionality of living systems,
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能够根据需求定制
一个生命系统的功能——
一个生命系统的功能——
03:02
we can now rapid prototype
the assembly of DNA.
the assembly of DNA.
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我们现在已经可以快速地
制作出 DNA 的相似原型。
制作出 DNA 的相似原型。
03:07
That means that we can engineer
the kind of biological precision
the kind of biological precision
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这意味着，我们可以
人为地改变生物精度，
人为地改变生物精度，
03:11
that makes it possible
to design a bacteria
to design a bacteria
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使我们能够设计出
03:16
that can recycle metal,
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能回收金属的细菌、
03:18
to grow fungi into furniture
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能在家具中培育真菌的细菌、
03:20
and even sequester
renewable energy from algae.
renewable energy from algae.
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甚至是可以从藻类植物上获取
可再生能源的细菌。
可再生能源的细菌。
03:24
To think about how we might access
this inherent brilliance of nature --
this inherent brilliance of nature --
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在考虑如何获取这种大自然的宝藏，
03:29
to build things from living things --
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即在活的生命体上构造新事物时，
03:32
let's consider the biological
process of fermentation.
process of fermentation.
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我们应该先来看看发酵的生物过程。
03:35
I've come to think of fermentation,
when harnessed by humans,
when harnessed by humans,
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我认为，在被人类利用以后，
03:39
as an advanced technological
toolkit for our survival.
toolkit for our survival.
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发酵就成了
保障人类生存的先进工具。
保障人类生存的先进工具。
03:42
When a solid or a liquid ferments,
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当一个固体或者液体物质被发酵时，
03:44
it's chemically broken down
by bacterial fungi.
by bacterial fungi.
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它实际上是被细菌化学分解了。
03:47
The byproduct of this is what we value.
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在这个过程中产生的副产品
正是我们所需的。
正是我们所需的。
03:50
So for example, we add yeast
to grapes to make wine.
to grapes to make wine.
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例如，我们酿造红酒时
在葡萄中加酵母。
在葡萄中加酵母。
03:54
Well in nature, these transformations
are part of a complex network --
are part of a complex network --
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当然在大自然中，这种转变只是
错综复杂的关系网中的一部分，
错综复杂的关系网中的一部分，
03:59
a continuous cycle
that redistributes energy.
that redistributes energy.
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这种网络是一种重新分配能源
的周而复始的循环。
的周而复始的循环。
04:02
Fermentation gives rise
to multispecies interactions
to multispecies interactions
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发酵促成了跨越多个物种的互动：
04:05
of bacteria and fungi,
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从细菌和真菌，
04:07
plants, insects, animals and humans:
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到植物、昆虫、动物和人类：
04:10
in other words, whole ecosystems.
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换句话说，是整个生态系统的互动。
04:13
We've known about these powerful
microbial interactions
microbial interactions
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我们了解这些强大的微生物相互作用
04:16
for thousands of years.
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已经有上千年历史了。
04:19
You can see how through
the fermentation of grains,
the fermentation of grains,
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你可以观察到通过对谷物、
04:21
vegetal matter and animal products,
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果蔬和动物制品进行发酵，
04:24
all peoples and cultures of the world
have domesticated microorganisms
have domesticated microorganisms
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世界上的所有民族和文化
都在利用微生物
都在利用微生物
04:29
to make the inedible edible.
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让不能吃的东西变得可以食用。
04:31
And there's even evidence
that as early as 350 AD,
that as early as 350 AD,
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而且有证据表明，早在公元 350 年
04:36
people deliberately fermented
foodstuffs that contained antibiotics.
foodstuffs that contained antibiotics.
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人类就开始有意发酵
含有抗生素的食物。
含有抗生素的食物。
04:41
The skeletal remains
of some Sudanese Nubian
of some Sudanese Nubian
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在苏丹努比亚人的遗骸中
04:43
were found to contain
significant deposits of tetracycline.
significant deposits of tetracycline.
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发现了很明显的四环素沉积现象，
04:47
That's an antibiotic that we use
in modern medicine today.
in modern medicine today.
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这是一种我们现代社会
也在用的抗生素。
也在用的抗生素。
04:51
And nearly 1500 years later,
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1500 年之后，
04:54
Alexander Fleming discovered
the antimicrobial properties of mold.
the antimicrobial properties of mold.
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亚历山大·费莱明发现了
有抗菌特质的霉菌。
有抗菌特质的霉菌。
04:59
And it was only through the industrialized
fermentation of penicillin
fermentation of penicillin
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只需要通过工业的青霉素发酵，
05:04
that millions could survive
infectious diseases.
infectious diseases.
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就能让数百万人
从传染病中存活下来。
从传染病中存活下来。
05:07
Fermentation could once again
play an important role
play an important role
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在人类的发展史中，
05:10
in our human development.
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发酵一次又一次发挥了重要作用。
05:13
Could it represent a new mode of survival
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如果我们利用生物
来彻底改变我们的工业，
来彻底改变我们的工业，
05:15
if we harness it to completely
change our industries?
change our industries?
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这种改变的结果能否成为
一种新的生产方式？
一种新的生产方式？
05:19
I've worked in my creative career
to develop new material systems
to develop new material systems
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我一直在致力于为纺织工业
05:23
for the textile industry.
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开拓新的材料系统。
05:24
And while it is work that I love,
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尽管这是我热爱的工作，
05:27
I cannot reconcile with the fact
that the textile industry
that the textile industry
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但是我不得不承认纺织行业
05:29
is one of the most polluting in the world.
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是最污染环境的行业之一
的这个事实。
的这个事实。
05:32
Most of the ecological harm
caused by textile processing
caused by textile processing
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大部分纺织品加工过程中
造成的生态破环
造成的生态破环
05:37
occurs at the finishing
and the dyeing stage.
and the dyeing stage.
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都出现在后期和染色阶段。
05:40
Processing textiles
requires huge amounts of water.
requires huge amounts of water.
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不仅因为生产纺织品
的过程需要大量的水。
的过程需要大量的水。
05:45
And since the oil age completely
transformed the textile industry,
transformed the textile industry,
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而且自从石油时代
完全改变纺织行业以来，
完全改变纺织行业以来，
05:49
many of the materials
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很多用于生产的原材料
05:50
and the chemicals used
to process them are petroleum based.
to process them are petroleum based.
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和加工用的化学物质
都是来源于石油的。
都是来源于石油的。
05:55
And so coupled with our insatiable
appetite for fast fashion,
appetite for fast fashion,
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再加上我们对快时尚的贪得无厌，
06:00
a huge amount of textile waste
is ending up in landfill every year
is ending up in landfill every year
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导致大量的纺织废弃物
年复一年地被填埋，
年复一年地被填埋，
06:05
because it remains
notoriously difficult to recycle.
notoriously difficult to recycle.
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这是因为这些废旧时尚品
很难被回收利用。
很难被回收利用。
06:09
So again, contrast this with biology.
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再一次把现有工业
和生物工业比较一下。
和生物工业比较一下。
06:13
Evolved over 3.8 billion years,
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后者是个已经进化了 38 亿年，
06:16
to rapid prototype,
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能快速生产原型，
06:18
to recycle and to replenish
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进行回收和补充的系统，
06:20
better than any system
we've ever engineered.
we've ever engineered.
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胜过我们既往设计的一切系统。
06:24
I was inspired by this immense potential
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我曾被它巨大的潜力所启发，
06:26
and wanted to explore it
through a seemingly simple question --
through a seemingly simple question --
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希望借由当时一个
看起来比较简明的问题
看起来比较简明的问题
06:30
at the time.
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去探索它。
06:32
If a bacteria produces a pigment,
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如果一个细菌可以产出一种色素
06:35
how do we work with it to dye textiles?
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那我们如何将它运用于布料染色呢？
06:39
Well, one of my favorite ways
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我最喜欢的方式之一是
06:41
is to grow Streptomyces coelicolor
directly onto silk.
directly onto silk.
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直接在丝绸上种植天蓝色链霉菌。
06:46
You can see how each colony
produces pigment around its own territory.
produces pigment around its own territory.
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你会看到这些小殖民者们
是如何在自己的领土上发挥作用的。
是如何在自己的领土上发挥作用的。
06:51
Now, if you add many, many cells,
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接着，如果你再添加很多很多的细胞，
06:54
they generate enough dyestuff
to saturate the entire cloth.
to saturate the entire cloth.
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他们就能产出足够
浸染整块布料的染料。
浸染整块布料的染料。
07:07
Now, the magical thing
about dyeing textiles in this way --
about dyeing textiles in this way --
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关于用这种染色方式神奇的一点是，
07:10
this sort of direct fermentation
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通过这种直接的发酵，
07:12
when you add the bacteria
directly onto the silk --
directly onto the silk --
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即你直接将细菌放在丝绸上后，
07:16
is that to dye one t-shirt,
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如果你要为一件T恤染色，
07:19
the bacteria survive
on just 200 milliliters of water.
on just 200 milliliters of water.
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那么只需要给细菌们
提供 200 毫升的水。
提供 200 毫升的水。
07:24
And you can see how this process
generates very little runoff
generates very little runoff
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你可以看到这个过程
只需要非常少的水量，
只需要非常少的水量，
07:29
and produces a colorfast pigment
without the use of any chemicals.
without the use of any chemicals.
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而且不用任何的化学药品
即可生成永不褪色的染料。
即可生成永不褪色的染料。
07:35
So now you're thinking --
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现在你可能会想——
07:36
and you're thinking right --
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对，你们想的是对的——
07:39
an inherent problem associated
with designing with a living system is:
with designing with a living system is:
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伴随着设计一个有生命的系统
而来的问题是：
而来的问题是：
07:44
How do you guide a medium
that has a life force of its own?
that has a life force of its own?
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人类要如何去驾驭
一个有着生命力的媒介？
一个有着生命力的媒介？
07:48
Well, once you've established
the baseline for cultivating Streptomyces
the baseline for cultivating Streptomyces
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事实上，一旦你提供了
链霉菌生长的基本条件，
链霉菌生长的基本条件，
07:53
so that it consistently
produces enough pigment,
produces enough pigment,
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使它能持续产生足够的染料，
07:57
you can turn to twisting, folding,
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你就可以开始拧、叠、
08:00
clamping, dipping, spraying,
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夹、沾、喷、
08:03
submerging --
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浸……
08:04
all of these begin to inform
the aesthetics of coelicolor's activity.
the aesthetics of coelicolor's activity.
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等所有这些能形成
天蓝色链菌酶分布的美感的操作。
天蓝色链菌酶分布的美感的操作。
08:10
And using them in a systematic way
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通过系统化地使用它们，
08:12
enables us to be able
to generate an organic pattern ...
to generate an organic pattern ...
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我们可以诱导一个有机图像、
08:18
a uniform dye ...
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一种均匀分布，
08:21
and even a graphic print.
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甚至一个特定画面的产生。
08:25
Another problem is how to scale
these artisanal methods of making
these artisanal methods of making
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另外一个问题是，
如何让这些手工制作方法大规模化，
如何让这些手工制作方法大规模化，
08:31
so that we can start
to use them in industry.
to use them in industry.
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从而使我们得以将其
应用在工业生产中。
应用在工业生产中。
08:36
When we talk about scale,
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当我们讲到大规模化时，
08:38
we consider two things in parallel:
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我们会同时想到两件事：
08:40
scaling the biology,
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让生物生长大规模化，
08:42
and then scaling
the tools and the processes
the tools and the processes
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以及与生物打交道时
08:45
required to work with the biology.
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所需的工具和流程的规模化。
08:48
If we can do this,
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如果我们能做到这些，
08:49
then we can move
what happens on a petri dish
what happens on a petri dish
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我们就能把在培养皿上的东西
08:52
so that it can meet the human scale,
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变成能满足人类需求的规模，
08:54
and then hopefully
the architecture of our environments.
the architecture of our environments.
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甚至有望满足整个生态架构的需求。
09:02
If Fleming were alive today,
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如果费莱明还在世，
09:04
this would definitely
be a part of his toolkit.
be a part of his toolkit.
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这些东西肯定在他的工具包里。
09:07
You're looking at our current best guess
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你所看到的就是我们目前
在规模生物学上
在规模生物学上
09:10
of how to scale biology.
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最好的猜想。
09:13
It's a bioreactor;
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这是一个生物反应器；
09:14
a kind of microorganism brewery
that contains yeasts
that contains yeasts
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就像一个包含酵母菌
的微生物酿酒厂。
的微生物酿酒厂。
09:17
that have been engineered to produce
specific commodity chemicals and compounds
specific commodity chemicals and compounds
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那些酵母菌被设定产出
特定的化学商品和成分，
特定的化学商品和成分，
09:22
like fragrances and flavors.
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例如香氛和香料。
09:25
It's actually connected to a suite
of automated hardware and software
of automated hardware and software
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它实际上是与一套实时读取参数的
09:29
that read in real time
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自动化硬件和软件相连的，
09:31
and feed back to a design team
the growth conditions of the microbe.
the growth conditions of the microbe.
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会把微生物的生长情况
反馈给设计团队。
反馈给设计团队。
09:37
So we can use this system
to model the growth characteristics
to model the growth characteristics
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我们可以用这套系统
09:40
of an organism like coelicolor
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去模拟细菌群落的生长情况、
09:43
to see how it would
ferment at 50,000 liters.
ferment at 50,000 liters.
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去观察它们如何在 5 万升水里发酵。
09:47
I'm currently based at Ginkgo Bioworks,
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我目前工作于
银杏生物工作室（Ginkgo Bioworks），
银杏生物工作室（Ginkgo Bioworks），
09:50
which is a biotechnology
startup in Boston.
startup in Boston.
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一家位于波士顿的生物技术初创公司。
09:54
I am working to see
how their platform for scaling biology
how their platform for scaling biology
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我正在努力研究他们的生物扩展平台
09:58
interfaces with my artisanal methods
of designing with bacteria for textiles.
of designing with bacteria for textiles.
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如何与我的手工设计
纺织品细菌的方法对接。
纺织品细菌的方法对接。
10:03
We're doing things like engineering
Streptomyces coelicolor
Streptomyces coelicolor
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我们正在研究天蓝色链霉菌
10:08
to see if it can produce more pigment.
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能否产生更多的染料。
10:11
And we're even looking at the tools
for synthetic biology.
for synthetic biology.
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我们甚至还在
人工合成生物领域寻找工具。
人工合成生物领域寻找工具。
10:15
Tools that have been designed
specifically to automate synthetic biology
specifically to automate synthetic biology
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寻找那些被特定设计为
自动人工合成生物的工具，
自动人工合成生物的工具，
10:20
to see how they could adapt
to become tools to print and dye textiles.
to become tools to print and dye textiles.
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能否被改造，为印刷
和染色纺织品所用。
和染色纺织品所用。
10:25
I'm also leveraging digital fabrication,
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同时我也借助了数字制造，
10:28
because the tools that I need
to work with Streptomyces coelicolor
to work with Streptomyces coelicolor
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因为我所需要用来研究
天蓝色链霉菌的工具
天蓝色链霉菌的工具
其实并不存在。
10:32
don't actually exist.
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10:34
So in this case --
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在这种情况下——
10:35
in the last week actually,
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其实就在上个星期，
10:37
I've just designed a petri dish
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我设计了一个培育皿，
10:39
that is engineered to produce
a bespoke print on a whole garment.
a bespoke print on a whole garment.
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它能在一整件成衣上
制造出定制的印刷图案。
制造出定制的印刷图案。
10:44
We're making lots of kimonos.
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我们在制作大量的和服。
10:46
Here's the exciting thing:
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让人激动的是：
10:48
I'm not alone.
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除了我之外，
10:50
There are others who are building
capacity in this field,
capacity in this field,
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还有其他在这个领域有所建树的群体，
10:53
like MycoWorks.
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例如 MycoWorks。
10:55
MycoWorks is a startup
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MycoWorks 是一家立志
10:56
that wants to replace animal leather
with mushroom leather,
with mushroom leather,
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用蘑菇革质来代替
动物皮革的初创公司，
动物皮革的初创公司，
10:59
a versatile, high-performance material
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蘑菇革质是一种多功能，
高性能的材料，
高性能的材料，
11:02
that has applications beyond textiles
and into product and architecture.
and into product and architecture.
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它在生产和建筑上比纺织物用途更广。
11:07
And Bolt Threads --
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还有 Bolt Threads ——
11:09
they've engineered a yeast
to produce spider-silk protein
to produce spider-silk protein
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他们发明出一种
能生产蛛丝蛋白的酵母菌，
能生产蛛丝蛋白的酵母菌，
11:14
that can be spun
into a highly programmable yarn.
into a highly programmable yarn.
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蛛丝蛋白可以纺成
高度可定制的纱线,
高度可定制的纱线,
11:18
So think water resistance,
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有着防水、
11:20
stretchability and superstrength.
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高延展性和超强韧性的特性。
11:24
To reach economies of scale,
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为了达到经济上的规模化，
11:26
these kinds of startups
are having to build and design
are having to build and design
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这些公司就必须建造和设计
11:31
and engineer the infrastructure
to work with biology.
to work with biology.
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能进行生物工程的基础设施。
11:34
For example,
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比如，
11:35
Bolt Threads have had to engage
in some extreme biomimicry.
in some extreme biomimicry.
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Bolt Threads 必须在
一些极致的仿生上下功夫。
一些极致的仿生上下功夫。
11:40
To be able to spin the product
this yeast creates into a yarn,
this yeast creates into a yarn,
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为了能让酵母产生的蛋白纺成纱线，
11:45
they've engineered a yarn-making machine
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他们设计出了一个纺纱机器。
11:49
that mimics the physiological conditions
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它能根据蜘蛛吐丝时的真实情景
11:52
under which spiders
ordinarily spin their own silk.
ordinarily spin their own silk.
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模仿对应的生理条件。
11:56
So you can start to see how imaginative
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所以，你们已经可以看出，
12:00
and inspiring modes of making
exist in nature
exist in nature
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在开拓生物工程的领土时，
12:06
that we can use to build capacity
around new bio-based industries.
around new bio-based industries.
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有那么多富于想象力和启迪性的模式。
12:11
What we now have is the technology
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我们现在所拥有的是
12:14
to design, build, test and scale
these capabilities.
these capabilities.
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设计、建造、测试和扩展领土的能力。
12:19
At this present moment,
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在当前这个时刻，
12:21
as we face the ecological
crisis in front of us,
crisis in front of us,
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我们正面临生态危机，
12:25
what we have to do is to determine
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我们必须要
12:28
how we're going to build
these new material systems
these new material systems
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决定如何建立新的材料系统，
12:31
so that they don't mirror
the damaging legacies of the oil age.
the damaging legacies of the oil age.
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来免于重蹈石油时代的覆辙。
12:37
How we're going to distribute them
to ensure a sustainable development
to ensure a sustainable development
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我们又该如何分配它们，
以在全球范围内公平地
以在全球范围内公平地
12:41
that is fair and equitable
across the world.
across the world.
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实现可持续发展。
12:44
And crucially, how we would like
the regulatory and ethical frameworks
the regulatory and ethical frameworks
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还有更重要的是，
我们要怎么让这些技术
我们要怎么让这些技术
12:47
that govern these technologies
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的监管和道德框架
12:49
to interact with our society.
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与我们的社会交互。
12:52
Biotechnology is going to touch
every part of our lived experience.
every part of our lived experience.
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生物技术将会涉及到
我们生活的方方面面。
我们生活的方方面面。
12:56
It is living;
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它是鲜活的，
12:57
it is digital;
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也是数字化的，
12:58
it is designed, and it can be crafted.
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它可以被设计，也可以被雕琢。
13:01
This is a material future
that we must be bold enough to shape.
that we must be bold enough to shape.
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这就是材料的未来，
我们必须坚定不移地塑造它。
我们必须坚定不移地塑造它。
13:05
Thank you.
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谢谢。
13:06
(Applause)
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（掌声）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Natsai Audrey Chieza - DesignerNatsai Audrey Chieza is a trans-disciplinary design researcher whose fascinating work crosses boundaries between technology, biology, design and cultural studies.
Why you should listen
Natsai Audrey Chieza is Founder and Creative Director of Faber Futures, a creative R&D studio that conceptualizes, prototypes and evaluates the next generation of materials that are emerging through the convergence of biology, technology and design. The studio advocates a shift in thinking away from resource extraction to material systems that are grown within the limits of our planetary boundaries. Working with partners in academia and industry, she is at the forefront of defining the future of design in the context of the Anthropocene at the advent of enabling technologies like synthetic biology.
Chieza holds an MA (Hons) in Architecture from the University of Edinburgh and an MA in Material Futures from Central Saint Martins. She began her career in design research at Textile Futures Research Centre (UK), while also pursuing her own research interests in biofabrication at the Ward Lab, University College London (UK). During this time she co-curated exhibitions and public programmes including Big Data, Designing with the Materials of Life 2015 (UK), Alive En Vie, Fondation EDF, 2014 (FR) and Postextiles, London Design Festival 2011 (UK).
Chieza has been a Designer in Residence at Ginkgo Bioworks (US), IDEO (UK), Machines Room (UK), Swedish Arts Grants Committee (SE), and the Ward Lab, University College London (UK). Her work has been widely exhibited at world-renowned galleries and museums, including the Victoria & Albert Museum (UK), Science Gallery Dublin (IR), Bauhaus Dessau (DE), Audax Textile Museum (NL) and at industry institutions like Microsoft Research (US/UK) and Fondation EDF (FR).
She has taught on degree programmes that are transitioning to biomaterials and sustainable design at Central Saint Martins, The Bartlett and Istituto Marangoni. Chieza's own body of work on biopigmented textiles has been featured in a number of leading publications, including WIRED, Next Nature, IDEO, Huffington Post, Viewpoint, Frame, Domus, LSN Global, Protein and FORM.
Natsai Audrey Chieza | Speaker | TED.com