TEDMED 2009
Ken Kamler: Medical miracle on Everest
聖母峰上的醫學奇蹟
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當歷史上最嚴重的聖母峰山難發生時，Ken Kamler 是山上唯一的醫生。在TEDMED演講中，他分享關於登山者在極為艱困的環境下生存下來的奇蹟故事，同時透過大腦的顯像技術將一個被埋在雪裡36個小時，並且生存下來的登山者的腦內奇蹟描繪出來。
Ken Kamler - Adventure physician
Ken Kamler has served as doctor on some of the world’s most daring expeditions, but also performs delicate microsurgery when at home in New York. Full bio
Ken Kamler has served as doctor on some of the world’s most daring expeditions, but also performs delicate microsurgery when at home in New York. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
OK. We've heard a lot of people
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好的。嗯，我們都聽了很多人
00:18
speak at this conference
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在這次的會議中說了
00:20
about the power of the human mind.
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很多關於人們意志力的力量
00:23
And what I'd like to do today
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而我今天想做的
00:25
is give you a vivid example
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是給你們一個活生生的例子
00:27
of how that power can be unleashed
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關於這些力量如何被釋放出來的
00:29
when someone is in a survival situation,
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當一個人在一個生死攸關的情況下
00:32
how the will to survive can bring that out in people.
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那生存的意志力是如何從人們激發出來
00:36
This is an incident which occurred on Mount Everest;
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這是一次發生在聖母峰上的事件
00:39
it was the worst disaster in the history of Everest.
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這是一個聖母峰史上最嚴重的山難
00:43
And when it occurred, I was the only doctor on the mountain.
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而且當時我是山上唯一的一個醫生
00:46
So I'll take you through that
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所以呢我會帶你們一起去體會
00:48
and we'll see what it's like
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然後我們會看到這就像
00:51
when someone really
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當一個人確實
00:53
summons the will to survive.
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召喚出意志力以求生存是甚麼樣子。
00:55
OK, this is Mount Everest.
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ok 這就是聖母峰。
00:57
It's 29,035 feet high.
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她高 29,035 英尺。
00:59
I've been there six times: Four times I did work with National Geographic,
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我曾經去過那裡六次，其中四次是和國家地理頻道一起，
01:02
making tectonic plate measurements;
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做關於板塊的測量。
01:04
twice, I went with NASA
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另外兩次我是跟NASA一起去的
01:06
doing remote sensing devices.
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做關於遙測系統的測試。
01:09
It was on my fourth trip to Everest
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這是我的第四次聖母峰之旅
01:11
that a comet passed over the mountain. Hyakutake.
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這個是百武彗星，剛好畫過山際
01:14
And the Sherpas told us then
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然後這些夏爾巴人（當地住民）告訴我們
01:16
that was a very bad omen,
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那個彗星是一個不好的預兆
01:18
and we should have listened to them.
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而我們真的應該要聽他們的
01:20
Everest is an extreme environment.
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聖母峰上面真的是一個很艱困的環境
01:23
There's only one-third as much oxygen at the summit as there is at sea level.
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在頂峰的地方氧氣含量大約只有平地的三分之一
01:26
Near the summit, temperatures
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頂峰的氣溫呢
01:28
can be 40 degrees below zero.
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大約是華氏40度到零度
01:30
You can have winds 20 to 40 miles an hour.
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風速大概是每小時20到40英里
01:32
It's actually a wind-chill factor
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她的風寒指標呢
01:34
which is lower than a summer day on Mars.
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大概比火星的夏天還要低
01:38
I remember one time being up near the summit,
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我記得有一次在頂峰的附近
01:40
I reached into my down jacket
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我伸手進我的羽毛外套
01:42
for a drink from my water bottle,
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想要從我的水壺喝口水
01:44
inside my down jacket,
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在我的羽毛外套裡面
01:46
only to discover that the water was already frozen solid.
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卻發現裡面的水居然已經結冰凝固了！
01:49
That gives you an idea of just how severe
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這樣讓你有一些概念關於
01:51
things are near the summit.
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頂峰附近的情況有多麼惡劣
01:55
OK, this is the route up Everest.
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好的，這是上聖母峰的路徑
01:57
It starts at base camp, at 17,500 feet.
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它從位於一萬七千五百英尺的基地營開始
02:01
Camp One, 2,000 feet higher.
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再往上兩千英尺是一號營
02:04
Camp Two, another 2,000 feet higher up,
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一號營再往上兩千英尺是二號營
02:06
what's called the Western Cwm.
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也稱為 Western Cwn (西谷)
02:08
CampThree is at the base of Lhotse,
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三號營位於洛子峰的底部
02:10
which is the fourth highest mountain in the world, but it's dwarfed by Everest.
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他是世界上的第四高峰，但是在聖母峰前面也變得矮小
02:13
And then Camp Four is the highest camp;
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接著四號營是最高的營地
02:16
that's 3,000 feet short of the summit.
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它距離峰頂不到三千英尺
02:20
This is a view of base camp.
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這是我們基地營的一張照片
02:22
This is pitched on a glacier at 17,500 feet.
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它紮營在一萬七千五百英尺的冰河上
02:25
It's the highest point you can bring your yaks
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這是你能帶你的氂牛到的最高位置
02:27
before you have to unload.
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在你必須要卸下裝備之前
02:29
And this is what they unloaded for me:
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然後這是他們幫我卸貨的東西.
02:31
I had four yak loads of medical supplies,
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我帶了四隻載滿醫療補給品的氂牛
02:33
which are dumped in a tent,
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然後東西全部都倒在帳篷裡
02:35
and here I am trying to arrange things.
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喔這個是我試著想要整理這些東西
02:38
This was our expedition.
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這是我們的探勘團隊
02:40
It was a National Geographic expedition,
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這是國家地理的探勘隊伍
02:42
but it was organized by The Explorers Club.
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但是他是由The Explorers Club.所組成的
02:44
There were three other expeditions on the mountain,
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另外還有三支探勘隊伍同時在山上
02:46
an American team, a New Zealand team
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一個美國的隊伍，一個紐西蘭團隊，
02:48
and an IMAX team.
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還有一個IMAX的隊伍。
02:52
And, after actually two months of preparation,
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接著，在整整兩個月的準備之後，
02:55
we built our camps all the way up the mountain.
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我們把我們的營地蓋在山上最高的地方。
02:58
This is a view looking up the icefall,
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這是一張仰望冰瀑的景象。
03:00
the first 2,000 feet of the climb
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爬了前兩千英尺之後遇到
03:02
up from base camp.
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從基地營開始。
03:05
And here's a picture in the icefall;
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這個是一張冰瀑的照片。
03:07
it's a waterfall, but it's frozen, but it moves very slowly,
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他其實是一個瀑布，但是它結冰了，但它仍非常緩慢的移動，
03:10
and it actually changes every day.
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所以它每天都還是會改變。
03:12
When you're in it, you're like a rat in a maze;
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當你身在其中的時候，你就像一隻在迷宮裡頭的老鼠：
03:14
you can't even see over the top.
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你甚至無法從上面看到全貌。
03:17
This is near the top of the icefall.
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這是靠近冰瀑的頂端。
03:19
You want to climb through at night when the ice is frozen.
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你會想要在晚上完全結冰了才爬上去。
03:22
That way, it's less likely to tumble down on you.
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這樣它才比較不會垮在你身上。
03:24
These are some climbers reaching the top of the icefall just at sun-up.
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這是一群登山客在太陽剛剛升起的時候爬到冰瀑頂端。
03:30
This is me crossing a crevasse.
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這是我，正要越過一個冰隙。
03:32
We cross on aluminum ladders with safety ropes attached.
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我們利用綁上安全繩的鋁梯來通過。
03:37
That's another crevasse.
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這是另外一個冰隙。
03:39
Some of these things are 10 stories deep or more,
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這些冰隙有些深達十層樓或者更高，
03:41
and one of my climbing friends says that
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一個山友告訴我說
03:43
the reason we actually climb at night
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我們之所以要在晚上爬過去的原因
03:45
is because if we ever saw the bottom
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是因為如果我們一旦看到了冰隙的底部
03:47
of what we're climbing over,
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是我們正要爬過去的，
03:49
we would never do it.
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那我們永遠也不會這麼做。
03:52
Okay. This is Camp One.
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好的，這是一號營。
03:54
It's the first flat spot you can reach
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這是第一個你能夠到達的平坦處
03:56
after you get up to the top of the icefall.
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在你爬到冰瀑的上方之後
03:59
And from there we climb up to Camp Two,
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我們從這裡爬上第二營地
04:02
which is sort of the foreground.
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有點像是前哨站
04:04
These are climbers moving up the Lhotse face,
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這裡是登山客開始往洛子峰面攀爬的情況
04:06
that mountain toward Camp Three.
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這座山也是第三營地的地方
04:08
They're on fixed ropes here.
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他們都固定在繩索上攀爬
04:10
A fall here, if you weren't roped in,
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如果你沒綁上繩索，就會在這跌下
04:12
would be 5,000 feet down.
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差不多是五千英尺深
04:16
This is a view taken from camp three.
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這是從第三營地拍的景觀
04:18
You can see the Lhotse face is in profile,
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你可以看到洛子峰表面的輪廓
04:20
it's about a 45 degree angle. It takes two days to climb it,
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大概呈現45度角，要花個兩天才能爬上去
04:23
so you put the camp halfway through.
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所以你會紮營在半途中
04:25
If you notice, the summit of Everest is black.
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如果你有注意到，聖母峰峰頂呈現黑色
04:27
There's no ice over it.
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並沒有冰雪覆蓋在上面
04:29
And that's because Everest is so high,
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那是因為呢，聖母峰太高
04:31
it's in the jet stream,
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她在所謂的高速氣流當中
04:33
and winds are constantly scouring the face,
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強風不斷的沖刷她的表面
04:35
so no snow gets to accumulate.
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造成冰雪沒有辦法在上面堆積
04:37
What looks like a cloud behind the summit ridge
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在頂峰邊緣看起來像是雲的東西
04:39
is actually snow being blown off the summit.
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其實就是被風吹起來的冰雪
04:45
This is on the way up from Camp Three to Camp Four,
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這是從三號營地攀爬到四號營地的途中
04:47
moving in, up through the clouds.
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會走進並且穿越雲層
04:52
And this is at Camp Four.
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然後這是在四號營地
04:54
Once you get to Camp Four, you have maybe 24 hours
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一旦你到達了四號營地，你大概有二十四小時
04:57
to decide if you're going to go for the summit or not.
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來決定你到底要不要攻頂
04:59
Everybody's on oxygen, your supplies are limited,
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每一個人都帶著氧氣面罩。你的氧氣補給非常有限
05:02
and you either have to go up or go down,
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所以你要攻頂還是下山
05:04
make that decision very quickly.
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你要很快的做決定
05:07
This is a picture of Rob Hall.
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這是一張Rob Hall的照片
05:09
He was the leader of the New Zealand team.
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他是紐西蘭隊伍的領隊。
05:11
This is a radio he used later to call his wife
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這是他晚點用來與他老婆聯繫的無線電
05:13
that I'll tell you about.
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我等一下就會告訴你。
05:17
These are some climbers waiting to go to the summit.
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這是一些等著攻頂的登山客。
05:19
They're up at Camp Four, and you can see that there's wind blowing off the summit.
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他們正在四號營地，然後你可以看到後面頂峰上面強風不斷的吹著。
05:22
This is not good weather to climb in,
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這不是一個適合攀爬的天氣，
05:24
so the climbers are just waiting, hoping that the wind's going to die down.
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所以登山客們只能等著，希望強風能夠停下來。
05:29
And, in fact, the wind does die down at night.
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然後，事實上風在晚上的確是停了下來。
05:31
It becomes very calm, there's no wind at all.
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變得非常平靜，而且幾乎沒有風。
05:33
This looks like a good chance to go for the summit.
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這看起來是個非常適合攻頂的好機會。
05:36
So here are some climbers starting out for the summit
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所以有些登山客開始準備攻頂
05:38
on what's called the Triangular Face.
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在所謂的三角點上。
05:40
It's the first part of climb.
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這是攀登的第一個部份。
05:42
It's done in the dark, because it's actually less steep than what comes next,
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這通常會在黑夜中完成，因為跟接下來比這算是比較不那麼陡峭的，
05:44
and you can gain daylight hours if you do this in the dark.
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而且讓你可以賺到一點白天的時間，如果你是在黑夜中完成的。
05:48
So that's what happened.
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然後這就是接下來發生的。
05:50
The climbers got on the southeast ridge.
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這些登山客到了東南邊的山脊。
05:52
This is the view looking at the southeast ridge.
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這是從東南脊觀看它的樣子。
05:54
The summit would be in the foreground.
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這個山頂是個前台。
05:56
From here, it's about 1,500 feet
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從這裡開始，它大約有一千五百英尺
05:59
up at a 30-degree angle to the summit.
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以一個30度的傾角到達頂峰。
06:04
But what happened that year was
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但是那年發生的事情是
06:06
the wind suddenly and unexpectedly picked up.
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風突然不預期的又刮大了起來。
06:08
A storm blew in that no one was anticipating.
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一個所有人預料之外的暴風。
06:11
You can see here some ferocious winds
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你可以看到這裡一些非常強勁的風勢
06:13
blowing snow way high off the summit.
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把雪吹得遠高過山頂。
06:16
And there were climbers on that summit ridge.
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而且還有登山客還在山頂的山脊上。
06:20
This is a picture of me in that area
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這張照片是我在同樣的地方
06:22
taken a year before,
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在一年以前拍的，
06:24
and you can see I've got an oxygen mask on
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你可以看到我戴著氧氣面罩
06:27
with a rebreather.
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還有循環的呼吸器
06:29
I have an oxygen hose connected here.
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我這還有個氧氣管連接在上面
06:31
You can see on this climber, we have two oxygen tanks in the backpack --
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你可以看到在這位登山者身上，我們的背包都有兩罐氧氣筒
06:34
little titanium tanks, very lightweight --
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小型的鈦合金筒，重量非常輕
06:36
and we're not carrying much else.
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然後，我們並沒有多帶什麼
06:38
This is all you've got. You're very exposed on the summit ridge.
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這是你全部所有的。你在山頂脊上是非常裸露沒有遮蔽的。
06:41
OK, this is a view taken on the summit ridge itself.
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好，這是一張照片從山頂脊上拍下來的
06:44
This is on the way toward the summit,
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這是在攻頂的半途中，
06:46
on that 1,500-foot bridge.
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在那一千五百英尺的山脊。
06:49
All the climbers here are climbing unroped,
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所有的登山人員都是沒有綁上繩子的
06:51
and the reason is because
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那是由於
06:53
the drop off is so sheer on either side
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兩邊下坡都是非常陡峭的，
06:55
that if you were roped to somebody,
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如果你還和其他人綁著，
06:57
you'd wind up just pulling them off with you.
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你最後會拉著他們跟著你掉下去。
06:59
So each person climbs individually.
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所以每個人都只能靠自己獨立的爬。
07:01
And it's not a straight path at all,
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而且這根本就不是什麼好走的路。
07:04
it's very difficult climbing,
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它可是非常難爬的，
07:07
and there's always the risk
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都必須要冒著可能會
07:09
of falling on either side.
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掉下任何一邊的危險
07:11
If you fall to your left, you're going to fall
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如果你從左邊掉下去，你將會墜落
07:13
8,000 feet into Nepal;
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八千英尺到尼泊爾。
07:15
if you fall to your right,
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如果你從右邊掉下去
07:17
you're going to fall 12,000 feet into Tibet.
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你會墜落一萬兩千英尺深到西藏。
07:20
So it's probably better to fall into Tibet
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所以，可能摔到西藏那邊會好一點
07:22
because you'll live longer.
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因為你會活的久一點 （墜落時間比較長...）
07:24
(Laughter)
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（笑聲）
07:29
But, either way, you fall for the rest of your life.
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但是無論哪一邊，你都是跌下你剩下的人生。
07:33
OK. Those climbers were up near the summit,
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好，這些登山者正沿著山脊，
07:35
along that summit ridge that you see up there,
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你可以看到這裡爬到接近頂峰了
07:39
and I was down here in Camp Three.
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當時我正在下面的三號營地這裡。
07:41
My expedition was down in Camp Three,
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我的探勘隊伍駐紮在三號營，
07:44
while these guys were up there in the storm.
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當這些登山客在暴風當中的時候。
07:46
The storm was so fierce that we had to lay,
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因為風暴實在太強勁了，我們只能躺著
07:49
fully dressed, fully equipped,
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完全備裝、全副武裝的，
07:51
laid out on the tent floor
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躺在帳篷的地板上
07:53
to stop the tent from blowing off the mountain.
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來防止帳篷被強風吹落山谷。
07:55
It was the worst winds I've ever seen.
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那是我看過最糟糕的暴風。
07:57
And the climbers up on the ridge
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然後那些登山客還在的山脊上
08:00
were that much higher, 2,000 feet higher,
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還要高兩千英尺，
08:02
and completely exposed to the elements.
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然後完全的暴露在外在的環境下。
08:06
We were in radio contact with some of them.
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我們透過無線電連絡他們。
08:08
This is a view taken along the summit ridge.
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這張照片是沿著山頂的山脊拍的一張。
08:11
Rob Hall, we heard by radio,
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我們從無線電中聽到Rob Hall
08:13
was up here, at this point in the storm
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就在上面，就在暴風之中
08:16
with Doug Hansen.
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跟Doug Hansen在一起。
08:18
And we heard that Rob was OK,
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然後我們聽到Rob沒什麼問題，
08:20
but Doug was too weak to come down.
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但是Doug 實在太虛弱了而沒辦法爬下來。
08:22
He was exhausted, and Rob was staying with him.
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他完全累斃了，然後Rob在那裡陪著他。
08:26
We also got some bad news in the storm
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我們在暴風雪中也得到了其他壞消息
08:28
that Beck Weathers, another climber,
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另一個登山客 Beck Weather，
08:31
had collapsed in the snow and was dead.
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被崩下的雪壓住而且已經死了。
08:34
There were still 18 other climbers
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還有其他十八個登山客
08:36
that we weren't aware of their condition.
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我們是不清楚他們的狀況。
08:40
They were lost. There was total confusion on the mountain;
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他們失蹤了。山上完全是一團混亂。
08:44
all the stories were confusing, most of them were conflicting.
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所有傳來的消息都讓人困惑。大部份還互相衝突。
08:47
We really had no idea what was going on during that storm.
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我們真的不知道到底在暴風雪時發生了甚麼事情。
08:50
We were just hunkered down
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我們只能窩在
08:52
in our tents at Camp Three.
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我們在第三營地的帳篷裡。
08:54
Our two strongest climbers, Todd Burleson and Pete Athans,
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我們其中兩位最強壯的登山客，Todd Burleson 和 Pete Athans，
08:57
decided to go up to try to rescue who they could
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決定上山去看看能不能援救到任何他們所能救到的人
09:00
even though there was a ferocious storm going.
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即使暴風還在猛烈的吹著。
09:03
They tried to radio a message to Rob Hall,
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他們是著透過無線電發送訊息給Rob Hall，
09:06
who was a superb climber
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他是一個傑出的登山者
09:09
stuck, sort of, with a weak climber
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有點像與一個虛弱的登山客卡住
09:11
up near the summit.
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在接近山頂的地方。
09:13
I expected them to say to Rob,
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我原本希望他們對Rob說，
09:15
"Hold on. We're coming."
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『撐住，我們就來了。』
09:18
But in fact, what they said was,
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但事實上他們卻說，
09:21
"Leave Doug and come down yourself.
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『留下Doug！你自己下來！
09:23
There's no chance of saving him,
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已經沒有機會能夠救他了，
09:25
and just try to save yourself at this point."
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在這關頭只能試著救你自己！！』
09:29
And Rob got that message,
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然後Rob 也收到了那個訊息，
09:31
but his answer was,
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但是他的回答是，
09:34
"We're both listening."
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我們都在聽...
09:40
Todd and Pete got up to the summit ridge, up in here,
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Todd 和 Pete 衝上山頂脊，就在那上面，
09:43
and it was a scene of complete chaos up there.
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然後發現的景象是一片混亂。
09:47
But they did what they could to stabilize the people.
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但是他們做了所有他們能做的去穩定人們。
09:50
I gave them radio advice from Camp Three,
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我從第三營地透過無線電給了他們一些意見，
09:53
and we sent down the climbers that could make it down
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然後我們將能到達山下的登山者送下山
09:56
under their own power.
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靠的是他們自己的力量。
09:58
The ones that couldn't we just sort of decided to leave up at Camp Four.
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對於那些作不到的，我們就只是決定留在四號營地。
10:01
So the climbers were coming down along this route.
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所以那些登山客都沿著這條路線下山。
10:03
This is taken from Camp Three, where I was.
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這是我從三號營地拍的，也是我所在的地方。
10:06
And they all came by me
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然後他們都是來找我的
10:08
so I could take a look at them and see what I could do for them,
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所以我盡我所能的看看我能夠為他們做些什麼，
10:12
which is really not much, because Camp Three
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但是我們能做的不多因為三號營地
10:14
is a little notch cut in the ice
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不過是冰上面的一個小小V字型斜缺口
10:16
in the middle of a 45-degree angle.
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駐紮在四十五度角的中間。
10:18
You can barely stand outside the tent.
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在帳篷外面你很勉強才能站著。
10:20
It's really cold; it's 24,000 feet.
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在兩萬四千英尺真的是非常的冷。
10:22
The only supplies I had at that altitude
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在那個高度下我唯一有的補給品
10:24
were two plastic bags
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只是兩個塑膠袋
10:26
with preloaded syringes
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還有預先注好的針筒
10:28
of painkiller and steroids.
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的止痛劑或是類固醇。
10:31
So, as the climbers came by me,
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所以當這些登山客來找我的時候，
10:33
I sort of assessed whether or not they were in condition
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我約略評估他們的狀態還適不適合
10:35
to continue on further down.
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繼續走下山。
10:37
The ones that weren't that lucid or were not that well coordinated,
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對於那些情況不是那麼清醒，或是身體不是太協調的，
10:40
I would give an injection of steroids
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我會給他們注射一些類固醇
10:43
to try to give them some period
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並且給他們一點時間
10:45
of lucidity and coordination
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恢復到比較清醒和協調的狀況
10:47
where they could then work their way further down the mountain.
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好讓他們能夠自己走下山。
10:50
It's so awkward to work up there that sometimes
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在那上面工作其實是很棘手的像有些時候
10:52
I even gave the injections right through their clothes.
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我甚至會直接穿過衣服幫他們打針。
10:54
It was just too hard to maneuver
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那實在是太難去操作
10:57
any other way up there.
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在那上面的時候還以其它的方式來完成。
10:59
While I was taking care of them,
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當我在照料他們的時候，
11:01
we got more news about Rob Hall.
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我們得到更多關於Rob Hall的消息。
11:03
There was no way we could get up high enough to rescue him.
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我們沒有辦法爬到那麼高去救他回來。
11:07
He called in to say that he was alone now.
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他說現在只剩下他一個人了
11:10
Apparently, Doug had died higher up on the mountain.
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很明顯的Doug已經在山上死了。
11:13
But Rob was now too weak to come down himself,
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但是Rob現在已經太虛弱了而沒有辦法自己走下山，
11:16
and with the fierce winds and up at that altitude,
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尤其是在那樣的強風還有高海拔下，
11:19
he was just beyond rescue
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他幾乎沒有被拯救的機會
11:21
and he knew it.
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而且他也知道。
11:23
At that point, he asked
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就在那當下，他問到
11:25
to be paged into his wife.
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希望能夠連絡到他太太。
11:27
He was carrying a radio.
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而他也帶著那個無線電。
11:29
His wife was home in New Zealand,
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她的太太在紐西蘭的家裡，
11:31
seven months pregnant with their first child,
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肚子裡懷著七個月大，他們的第一個小孩。
11:34
and Rob asked to be patched into her. That was done,
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Rob要求能夠連絡到他太太。也真的聯繫上了。
11:37
and Rob and his wife
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然後Rob跟他太太
11:39
had their last conversation.
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說了他們人生中最後、他們最後的一次對話。
11:41
They picked the name for their baby.
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他們為他們的孩子挑了一個名字。
11:43
Rob then signed off,
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然後Rob就掛斷了，
11:45
and that was the last we ever heard of him.
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那是我們最後一次得到他的消息。
11:50
I was faced with treating a lot of critically ill patients
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我面對到必須要治療許多狀況嚴重的病人
11:53
at 24,000 feet,
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在兩萬四千英尺的地方，
11:55
which was an impossibility.
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這幾乎不可能的。
11:57
So what we did was, we got the victims
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所以我們做的是，帶著這些山難的倖存者
11:59
down to 21,000 feet, where it was easier for me to treat them.
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下降到兩萬一千英尺的地方，那裡對我來說比較好照顧他們。
12:02
This was my medical kit.
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這是我的急救箱。
12:04
It's a tackle box filled with medical supplies.
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這是一個裝滿醫療補給品的工具箱。
12:07
This is what I carried up the mountain.
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這是我帶上山的裝備。
12:10
I had more supplies lower down,
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我在低一點的地方還有更多的補給品，
12:12
which I asked to be brought up to meet me at the lower camp.
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我要求帶上來到較低層的營地給我。
12:15
And this was scene at the lower camp.
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這是較低層營地的景象。
12:17
The survivors came in one by one.
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倖存者一個接著一個的來找我。
12:20
Some of them were hypothermic,
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他們有一些失溫，
12:22
some of them were frostbitten, some were both.
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有一些有凍瘡，有些人兩樣都有。
12:25
What we did was try to warm them up as best we could,
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我們做的就是盡我們所能的讓他們暖起來，
12:28
put oxygen on them and try to revive them,
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給他們氧氣或是試著讓他們活下來，
12:31
which is difficult to do at 21,000 feet,
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這在兩萬一千英尺做起來是很困難的，
12:34
when the tent is freezing.
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尤其是當你的帳篷還冷得結冰時。
12:38
This is some severe frostbite on the feet,
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這是一些很嚴重在腳上的凍瘡，
12:41
severe frostbite on the nose.
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在鼻子上嚴重的凍瘡。
12:47
This climber was snow blind.
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這位登上客得到了雪盲。
12:49
As I was taking care of these climbers,
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正當我在照顧這些登山者的時候，
12:51
we got a startling experience.
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我們得到了一個令人吃驚的經驗。
12:56
Out of nowhere, Beck Weathers,
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不知道從哪裡，Beck Weathers，
12:58
who we had already been told was dead,
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我們早就被告知已經雪壓死的人，
13:01
stumbled into the tent,
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蹣跚的走進了帳篷，
13:04
just like a mummy, he walked into the tent.
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就像個木乃伊，他就這麼走了進來。
13:07
I expected him to be incoherent,
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我以為他可能會有點語無倫次，
13:09
but, in fact, he walked into the tent and said to me,
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但是事實上他走進帳篷後對我說
13:11
"Hi, Ken. Where should I sit?"
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『嗨， Ken 我應該坐哪？』
13:14
And then he said,
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然後他又接著說，
13:16
"Do you accept my health insurance?"
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『你接受我的健康保險嗎？』
13:18
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
13:20
He really said that.
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他真的是那麼說的。
13:22
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
13:24
So he was completely lucid, but he was very severely frostbitten.
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所以他是完全的清醒，只是有非常嚴重的凍瘡。
13:27
You can see his hand is completely white;
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你可以看到他的手非常白，
13:29
his face, his nose, is burned.
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然後他的臉、跟鼻子都灼傷了。
13:31
First, it turns white, and then when it's completed necrosis,
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一開始你會看到它先變白，然後當它完全壞死之後，
13:34
it turns black, and then it falls off.
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它就會變黑，然後就掉下來。
13:37
It's the last stage, just like a scar.
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這是末期，就像是個疤。
13:39
So, as I was taking care of Beck,
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所以，當我正在照顧Beck的時候，
13:41
he related what had been going on up there.
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他描述了上面到底發生了什麼事。
13:43
He said he had gotten lost in the storm,
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他說他在暴風雪當中迷了路。
13:46
collapsed in the snow,
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然後被壓倒在雪堆下，
13:48
and just laid there, unable to move.
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然後他只能倒在那裡，沒辦法動。
13:50
Some climbers had come by and looked at him,
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有些登山客經過看了看他，
13:53
and he heard them say, "He's dead."
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然後他聽到他們說：『他已經死了。』
13:57
But Beck wasn't dead; he heard that,
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但是Beck並沒有死：他聽到他們說的，
14:00
but he was completely unable to move.
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但是他完全沒辦法動彈。
14:02
He was in some sort of catatonic state
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他正處於一種類似僵硬緊繃完全不動的狀態，
14:04
where he could be aware of his surroundings,
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但他仍能感受周遭的環境，
14:06
but couldn't even blink to indicate that he was alive.
325
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但是沒辦法甚至眨眼來表示他還活著。
14:09
So the climbers passed him by,
326
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因此，登山客們經過他，
14:12
and Beck lay there for a day, a night
327
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然後Beck躺在那裡一天、一夜，
14:15
and another day,
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然後又一天，
14:17
in the snow.
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在雪堆中。
14:19
And then he said to himself,
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然後他對自己說，
14:21
"I don't want to die.
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『我不想死。
14:23
I have a family to come back to."
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我還有家人等著我回去。』
14:25
And the thoughts of his family,
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而想到他的家人，
14:27
his kids and his wife,
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他的老婆、小孩，
14:29
generated enough energy,
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產生足夠的力量，
14:32
enough motivation in him,
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讓他產生足夠的動機，
14:34
so that he actually got up.
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所以讓他能夠確實站起來。
14:36
After laying in the snow that long a time,
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被壓在雪堆中那麼長的時間之後，
14:38
he got up and found his way back to the camp.
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他站起來並找到他自己走回營地的路。
14:42
And Beck told me that story very quietly,
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然後Beck平靜的告訴我這個故事。
14:44
but I was absolutely stunned by it.
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而我完全的被他的故事震懾住了。
14:47
I couldn't imagine anybody laying in the snow
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我無法想像有任何人躺在雪堆中
14:49
that long a time
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經過那麼長的時間之後
14:51
and then getting up.
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還可以再站起來的。
14:53
He apparently reversed
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他確實是回來了
14:55
an irreversible hypothermia.
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帶著不可逆的失溫。
14:58
And I can only try to speculate
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我只能試著去猜測
15:01
on how he did it.
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他到底是怎麼辦到的。
15:03
So, what if we had Beck
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所以，如果我們把Beck
15:05
hooked up to a SPECT scan,
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接到SPECT（單光子射出電腦斷層掃描）造影，
15:07
something that could actually measure brain function?
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那是個大概可以測出大腦功能的東西？
15:12
Just very simply, the three parts of the brain:
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非常簡單的說一下，大腦的三個部份：
15:15
the frontal lobe, where you focus
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額葉，是你主要集中
15:17
your attention and concentration;
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你的注意力跟專注力的地方，
15:19
you have the temporal lobe,
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你有顳葉，
15:21
where you form images and keep memories;
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主要為你形成影像還有留住你的記憶，
15:23
and the posterior part of your brain,
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然後你大腦的後面，
15:25
which contains the cerebellum, which controls motion;
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有著小腦用來控制你的動作，
15:27
and the brain stem,
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還有腦幹，
15:29
where you have your basic maintenance functions,
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用來掌控你基本的生存功能
15:31
like heartbeat and respiration.
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像是心跳跟呼吸。
15:33
So let's take a cut through the brain here,
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所以讓我們把大腦沿著這裡剖開，
15:36
and imagine that Beck
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然後想像這是Beck
15:38
was hooked up to a SPECT scan.
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在接上SPECT之後的影像。
15:40
This measures dynamic blood flow
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他可以測量動態的血液流動
15:42
and therefore energy flow within the brain.
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因此可以看見腦內能量的流動。
15:44
So you have the prefrontal cortex here,
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所以你在這裡有前額葉的腦迴
15:46
lighting up in red.
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亮著呈現紅色。
15:48
This is a pretty evenly distributed scan.
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這是張幾乎分佈得很均勻的掃描圖。
15:50
You have the middle area,
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你有這中間的區域，
15:52
where the temporal lobe might be, in here,
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也就是顳葉大概所在的地方，在這，
15:54
and the posterior portion, where the maintenance functions are in the back.
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然後維持功能的部份在後面的區域。
15:57
This is a roughly normal scan,
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這是張大致上正常的掃描圖，
15:59
showing equal distribution of energy.
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顯示出平均的能量分布。
16:03
Now, you go to this one and you see how much more
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現在我們來到這張，然後你會看到到底有多少
16:06
the frontal lobes are lighting up.
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額葉的部份亮了起來。
16:08
This might be what Beck would be experiencing
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這可能就是Beck經歷過的
16:10
when he realizes he's in danger.
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當他意識到他正處於危險當中。
16:12
He's focusing all his attention
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他將全部的注意力
16:14
on getting himself out of trouble.
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專注在如何讓他脫離這次的危險。
16:16
These parts of the brain are quieting down.
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這些中間部份的腦區沈寂下來。
16:19
He's not thinking about his family or anybody else at this point,
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他在此時並沒有想到他的家人或是任何人，
16:22
and he's working pretty hard.
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而且他非常努力（於脫離危險這件事情上。）
16:24
He's trying to get his muscles going and get out of this.
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他試著讓他的肌肉作用來脫離這個危險。
16:30
OK, but he's losing ground here.
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好。但是在這他失去優勢（遭遇困難）。
16:33
He's running out of energy.
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他正在耗盡所有的力氣。
16:35
It's too cold; he can't keep his metabolic fires going,
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這實在太冷，他沒辦法讓他的新陳代謝動起來。
16:38
and, you see, there's no more red here;
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然後，你看到，這裡沒有任何一點是紅色的。
16:40
his brain is quieting down.
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他的大腦已經完全的沈寂了下來。
16:42
He's collapsed in the snow here. Everything is quiet,
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他正被雪堆壓著。一切都是安靜的。
16:44
there's very little red anywhere.
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根本只有很少的地方是還亮著紅色的。
16:47
Beck is powering down.
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Beck正在失去一切能量。
16:49
He's dying.
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他正在邁向死亡。
16:53
You go on to the next scan,
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你繼續看到下一張影像，
16:55
but, in Beck's case,
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但是，在Beck的案例中，
16:57
you can see that the middle part of his brain
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你可以看到他腦中間的區域
16:59
is beginning to light up again.
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正開始要再亮了起來。
17:02
He's beginning to think about his family.
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他正開始想起他的家人。
17:04
He's beginning to have images
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他腦中正開始有了些圖像
17:06
that are motivating him to get up.
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驅動他要站起來。
17:08
He's developing energy in this area
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他正在這個區域產生能量
17:10
through thought.
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透過想像/意念。
17:12
And this is how he's going to turn thought
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而這就是他正如何將意念
17:15
back into action.
404
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轉換成行動。
17:18
This part of the brain is called the anterior cingulate gyrus.
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這個部份的大腦就是所謂的前扣帶迴。
17:20
It's an area in which
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這個區域呢
17:22
a lot of neuroscientists believe
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被許多神經科學家認為是
17:25
the seat of will exists.
408
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意念存在的地方。
17:27
This is where people make decisions, where they develop willpower.
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這是人們做出決定，並且產生念力/意志力的地方。
17:30
And, you can see, there's an energy flow
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然後，你能看到，這裡有能量在的流動
17:32
going from the mid portion of his brain,
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從他大腦中間的部份開始，
17:34
where he's got images of his family,
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也是他開始想起他的家人影像的地方，
17:36
into this area, which is powering his will.
413
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流向到這個區域，而加強了他的意念。
17:41
Okay. This is getting stronger and stronger
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好，這個意念越來越強大
17:43
to the point where it's actually
415
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直到它能夠真正的
17:45
going to be a motivating factor.
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變成一個激勵的因子。
17:47
He's going to develop enough energy in that area --
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他將要在那個區域產生足夠的能量，
17:49
after a day, a night and a day --
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在一個白天、一個黑夜、然後又一天之後，
17:51
to actually motivate himself to get up.
419
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去確實驅動他站起來。
17:57
And you can see here,
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然後你可以看到這裡，
17:59
he's starting to get more energy into the frontal lobe.
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他的額葉開始得到越來越多的能量。
18:01
He's beginning to focus, he can concentrate now.
422
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他漸漸開始專注。他現在可以集中注意力。
18:04
He's thinking about what he's got to do to save himself.
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他開始想他要怎麼做才能救得了他自己。
18:06
So this energy has been transmitted
424
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所以這股能量已經被傳送了
18:08
up toward the front of his brain,
425
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送達到他大腦的前方
18:10
and it's getting quieter down here,
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然後這中間的區域漸漸的安靜了下來，
18:12
but he's using this energy
427
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但是他正用這個能量
18:14
to think about what he has to do to get himself going.
428
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來想著他要如何才能夠帶他自己脫離困境。
18:17
And then, that energy is sort of spreading
429
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然後，這個能量有點像在散播
18:20
throughout his thought areas.
430
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佈滿著他控制意念的區域。
18:22
He's not thinking about his family now, and he's getting himself motivated.
431
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他現在沒有在想他的家人，然後他正在激勵他自己。
18:25
This is the posterior part, where his muscles are going to be moving,
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這是大腦後方的部份，是讓他的肌肉能夠活動的地方，
18:28
and he's going to be pacing himself.
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然後他正要開始調整他的速度。
18:30
His heart and lungs are going to pick up speed.
434
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他的心臟跟肺也會漸漸的跟上他的速度。
18:33
So this is what I can speculate might have been going on
435
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所以這就是我所猜想，可能在他腦中發生的情況
18:36
had we been able to do a SPECT scan on Beck
436
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如果我們有機會對Beck做SPECT
18:39
during this survival epic.
437
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在那個生死攸關的當口。
18:43
So here I am taking care of Beck at 21,000 feet,
438
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所以這是我在兩萬一千英呎照顧Beck的照片，
18:46
and I felt what I was doing was completely trivial
439
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而我覺得當時我所作的可以說是微乎其微
18:49
compared to what he had done for himself.
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跟Beck對他自己所作的比起來。
18:51
It just shows you what the power of the mind can do.
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這只是呈現了你的意志力能夠做的
18:56
He was critically ill, there were other critically ill patients;
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當時他真的是傷得很重。同時也有其他情況危急的傷者。
18:58
luckily, we were able to get a helicopter
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幸運的，我們能夠找到一架直升機
19:00
in to rescue these guys.
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來救這些人。
19:03
A helicopter came in at 21,000 feet
445
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直升機來到兩萬一千英呎
19:06
and carried out the highest helicopter rescue in history.
446
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然後造就了史上最高的直升機救援任務。
19:10
It was able to land on the ice, take away Beck
447
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它能夠降落在冰上，將Beck帶走
19:12
and the other survivors, one by one,
448
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還有其他傷患一個接著一個的帶走。
19:15
and get them off to Kathmandu in a clinic
449
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接著讓他們降落在加德滿都的診所
19:18
before we even got back to base camp.
450
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在我們回到基地營之前。
19:21
This is a scene at base camp,
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這是基地營的一景
19:23
at one of the camps
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在其中的一個營裡
19:25
where some of the climbers were lost.
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是有些登山客走丟的地方。
19:27
And we had a memorial service there
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我們在那有一個紀念儀式的服務
19:29
a few days later.
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在山難發生之後的幾天。
19:31
These are Serphas lighting juniper branches.
456
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這是當地人點燃杜松樹枝。
19:34
They believe juniper smoke is holy.
457
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他們相信杜松的煙是神聖的。
19:37
And the climbers stood around on the high rocks
458
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然後這些登山客站在旁邊較高的石頭上
19:41
and spoke of the climbers who were lost
459
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然後談論著那些失去生命的人們
19:44
up near the summit,
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在接近頂峰，
19:46
turning to the mountain, actually, to talk to them directly.
461
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他們面向山，真的，與他們直接對話。
19:51
There were five climbers lost here.
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這裡有五位登山客遇難。
19:53
This was Scott Fischer,
463
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這是Scott Fischer（史考特．費雪），
19:58
Rob Hall,
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Rob Hall（羅伯．豪）
20:00
Andy Harris,
465
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Andy Harris （安迪．哈里斯）
20:02
Doug Hansen
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Doug Hansen（東．漢森），
20:04
and Yasuko Namba.
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以及Yasuko Namba（難波 康子）。
20:06
And one more climber
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還有另外一個登山客
20:08
should have died that day, but didn't,
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本來在那天應該已經死了，但是他沒有，
20:11
and that's Beck Weathers.
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那就是Beck Weathers（貝克．偉特斯）。
20:14
He was able to survive
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他能夠存活下來
20:16
because he was able to generate that incredible willpower,
472
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是因為他能夠產生那驚人的意念，
20:19
he was able to use all the power of his mind
473
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他能夠使用他腦中所有的力量
20:22
to save himself.
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來拯救他自己。
20:25
These are Tibetan prayer flags.
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這些是西藏的祈禱旗。
20:27
These Sherpas believe that
476
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這些喇嘛相信
20:29
if you write prayers on these flags,
477
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如果你把禱文寫在旗子上面。
20:31
the message will be carried up to the gods,
478
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你的訊息就會被帶到神的那邊去，
20:34
and that year, Beck's message was answered.
479
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而就在那年，Beck的願望得到了答覆。
20:38
Thank you.
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謝謝。
20:40
(Applause)
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（掌聲）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Ken Kamler - Adventure physicianKen Kamler has served as doctor on some of the world’s most daring expeditions, but also performs delicate microsurgery when at home in New York.
Why you should listen
Ken Kamler has practiced medicine in some of the most extreme conditions on Earth -- from the Andes mountains to the Antarctic ice to the Amazon rainforest. Many of his expeditions have been in concert with National Geographic, helping teams to carry out geological research and precision mapping less traveled areas of the world. He has also served as the chief high altitude physician in research by NASA, helping examine the human body’s response to high altitudes.
When not on expedition to a remote corner of the globe, Kamler practices microsurgery, specializing in hand reconstruction and finger reattachment. He has also chronicled his adventures in the books Doctor on Everest and Surviving the Extremes: A Doctor's Journey to the Limits of Human Endurance. His treatment of the climbers in the largest disaster to happen on Mount Everest was portrayed in the book Into Thin Air and in the IMAX film documentary, Everest. He has been active in promoting the Boy Scouts of America and currently serves as their Founders District Chairman in Queens, NY.
Ken Kamler | Speaker | TED.com