Small Thing Big Idea
Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
باولا أنتونيللي: 3000 عام من التاريخ للهودي
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الهودي أكثر بكثير من مجرد سترة مريحة. منسقة التصميم"باولا أنتونيللي" تأخذنا عبر تاريخه.
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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الهودي شيء رائع.
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
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إنه أحد الأشياء الخالدة
التي قليلا ما نفكر فيها.
التي قليلا ما نفكر فيها.
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
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لأنه اصبح جزء من حياتنا.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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نحن ندعوهم "التحف المتواضعة."
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[شيء بسيط.]
[فكرة عظيمة.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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[باولا أنتونيللي تتحدث عن الهودي ]
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
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00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
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أصبح الهودي،حتي إن لم يكن يسمى هكذا
أصبح أيقونة عبر التاريخ لأسباب جيدة
وأخري سيئة.
وأخري سيئة.
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
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00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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أقدم القطع التي يمكن أن نتعقبها
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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تعود لليونان وروما القديمتين.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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العصور الوسطى،يمكنك رؤية
الرهبان كثيرين
الرهبان كثيرين
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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يرتدون ملابس بدت على شكل القبعات
مع هودي
مع هودي
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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إذا كان هناك"هودي"،
00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
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كانت السيدات فى القرن ال17 يرتدون الهودي
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
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كنوع ليخبئوا أنفسهم عند الذهاب لمقابلة
عشاقهم.
عشاقهم.
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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ثم،بالطبع،كانت هناك الأسطورة،
كان هناك خيال.
كان هناك خيال.
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
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كانت هناك صورة للهودي مرتبطة
بحفاف الأرواح.
بحفاف الأرواح.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
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كانت هناك صورة للهودي مرتبطة بالجلاد.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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لذلك هناك الجانب المظلم للهودي.
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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التجسيد الحالي للهودي
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
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قطعة ملابس مصنوعة غالبا من القطن جيرسي،
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
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مرتبطة بهودي مع رباط:
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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أحيانا امتلكت جيب جرابي
قٌدم في الثلاثينيات من
"شركة نيكربوكر للحياكة"
"شركة نيكربوكر للحياكة"
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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والأن تسمى"تشامبيون"
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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كان هدفه أن يحفظ الرياضيين دافئين.
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
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بالطبع،على أي حال، لقد كانت ملابس
فعالة،مريحة
فعالة،مريحة
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
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حتى أن العمال سرعان ما تبنوها في كل مكان.
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
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ثم،حوالي في الثمانينيات، اِستعملت
بواسطة شباب الهيب هوب والبي،
والمتزلجون باللوح
والمتزلجون باللوح
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
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واتخذ هذا الشكل من ثقافة شباب الشارع.
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
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كان،في نفس الوقت،مريح جدا،
01:52
perfect for the streets
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مثالي للشوارع
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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وأيضا أضاف بعض الخفاء
01:57
when you needed it.
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عندما تريد ذلك.
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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وعندنا "مارك زوكيربيرج"،
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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الذي يعارض عرف ملابس
رجال الأعمال المحترمين.
رجال الأعمال المحترمين.
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
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لكنه من المثير للاهتمام،أن ذلك يظهر كيف أن
القوة تغيرت.
القوة تغيرت.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
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إن كنت ترتدي بدلة من قطعتين، من الممكن أن
تكون الحارس شخصي.
تكون الحارس شخصي.
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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الشخص القوي الحقيقي يلبس الهودي
مع تيشيرت وجينز
مع تيشيرت وجينز
إنه من سهل أن تفكر
في الجوانب المادية للهودي.
في الجوانب المادية للهودي.
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
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يمكنك فورا أن تفكر في ارتداء الهودي
على رأسك،
على رأسك،
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
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وتشعر بدفئه وحمايته،
02:26
but at the same time,
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لكن في نفس الوقت،
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
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يمكنك أن تشعر بجوانبه النفسية.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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أعني،فكر في ارتداء الهودي،
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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فجاة،تشعر بأنك محمي أكثر،
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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تشعر كأنك في قوقعتك الخاصة.
نحن نعلم جيدا علي ماذا جاء الهودي ليدل
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
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في السنوات القليلة الماضية في
الولايات المتحدة.
الولايات المتحدة.
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
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02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
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عندما "ترايفون مارتن"،
ولد في ال17 من عمره أمريكي-أفريقي،
ولد في ال17 من عمره أمريكي-أفريقي،
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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تم إطلاق النار عليه من حي الجيران،
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
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حدثت ملايين المسيرات للهودي
في كل الولايات المتجدة،
في كل الولايات المتجدة،
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
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حيث ارتدي الناس الهودي مع وضعه على رؤوسهم
03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
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وساروا بالشوارع ضد
هذا النوع من التعصب.
هذا النوع من التعصب.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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لم يحدث غالبا من قبل
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
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لقطعة ملابس أن تحصل على الكثير من الرمزية
والتاريخ
والتاريخ
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
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وهذا يشمل العديد من
الأكوان المختلفة
الأكوان المختلفة
03:17
as the hoodie.
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مثل الهودي
03:18
So, like all garments,
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لذلك،مثل كل الملابس،
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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خاصة الملابس النافعة حقا،
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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إنه أساسي في تصميمه.
03:25
But at the same time,
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لكن في نفس الوقت،
يملك كون كامل من الاحتمالات.
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com