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Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
Paola Antonelli: A história de 3 mil anos do moletom com capuz
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O moletom com capuz é muito mais do que um simples moletom confortável. A curadora de design Paola Antonelli nos acompanha pela história dessa peça de vestuário.
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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O moletom com capuz é uma peça incrível.
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
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É uma daquelas coisas atemporais
nas quais dificilmente pensamos,
nas quais dificilmente pensamos,
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
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pois funcionam tão bem
que fazem parte de nossa vida.
que fazem parte de nossa vida.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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São chamadas de "obras-primas humildes".
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[Pequena coisa.]
[Grande ideia.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
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[Paola Antonelli em "O Moletom com Capuz"]
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
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O moletom com capuz,
mesmo que não fosse chamado assim,
mesmo que não fosse chamado assim,
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
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tem sido um ícone ao longo da história
por razões boas e ruins.
por razões boas e ruins.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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Os primeiros que podemos reconhecer
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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são da Grécia e da Roma antigas.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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Na Idade Média, vemos muitos monges
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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vestindo peças de roupa
semelhantes a capas com capuzes:
semelhantes a capas com capuzes:
os "moletons com capuz".
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
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As senhoras do século 17
usavam moletons com capuz
usavam moletons com capuz
para se encobrir
ao encontrar seus amados.
ao encontrar seus amados.
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
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Então, é claro, há a lenda, a fantasia.
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
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Há a imagem do moletom
com capuz ligada ao ceifador.
com capuz ligada ao ceifador.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
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Há a imagem do moletom
com capuz ligada ao carrasco.
com capuz ligada ao carrasco.
Há, então, o lado negro
do moletom com capuz.
do moletom com capuz.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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A encarnação moderna do moletom com capuz,
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
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uma peça de vestuário feita,
geralmente, de jérsei de algodão,
geralmente, de jérsei de algodão,
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
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com um capuz preso por um cordão;
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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às vezes, com um bolso marsupial,
foi introduzido na década de 1930
pela Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
pela Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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Agora é chamada de Champion.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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Seu objetivo era manter
os atletas aquecidos.
os atletas aquecidos.
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
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Era uma peça de roupa
tão funcional e confortável
tão funcional e confortável
que foi adotada, muito rapidamente,
por trabalhadores em toda parte.
por trabalhadores em toda parte.
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
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Então, por volta da década de 1980,
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
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também é adotada pelo hip-hop
e pelos "b-boys", esqueitistas,
e pelos "b-boys", esqueitistas,
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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e assume esse tipo
de cultura jovem de rua.
de cultura jovem de rua.
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
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Era, ao mesmo tempo, superconfortável,
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
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perfeita para as ruas,
01:52
perfect for the streets
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01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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e também tinha esse valor agregado
do anonimato, quando necessário.
do anonimato, quando necessário.
01:57
when you needed it.
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E, então, temos Mark Zuckerberg,
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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que desafia a convenção
de traje respeitável para empresários.
de traje respeitável para empresários.
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
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Mas, curiosamente, também é uma forma
de mostrar como o poder mudou.
de mostrar como o poder mudou.
Ao usar terno de duas peças,
você pode ser o guarda-costas.
você pode ser o guarda-costas.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
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02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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A pessoa verdadeiramente poderosa
usa moletom com capuz, camiseta e jeans.
usa moletom com capuz, camiseta e jeans.
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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É fácil pensar nos aspectos físicos
do moletom com capuz.
do moletom com capuz.
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
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Podemos pensar, imediatamente,
em vestir o capuz,
em vestir o capuz,
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
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e sentir o calor e a proteção,
mas, ao mesmo tempo,
02:26
but at the same time,
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02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
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também podemos sentir
os aspectos psicológicos disso.
os aspectos psicológicos disso.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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Pensem em vestir um capuz;
de repente, nós nos sentimos
mais protegidos;
mais protegidos;
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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sentimos que estamos
em nossa própria concha.
em nossa própria concha.
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
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Sabemos muito bem que o moletom
com capuz veio para denotar importância
com capuz veio para denotar importância
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
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nos últimos anos, nos Estados Unidos,
quando Trayvon Martin, um jovem
afro-americano de 17 anos,
afro-americano de 17 anos,
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
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02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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foi baleado por um justiceiro do bairro,
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
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e ocorreram as Million Hoodie Marches
em todo os Estados Unidos,
em todo os Estados Unidos,
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
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em que as pessoas usaram
moletons com o capuz para cima
moletons com o capuz para cima
03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
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e marcharam nas ruas
contra esse tipo de preconceito.
contra esse tipo de preconceito.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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Não acontece com frequência
que uma peça de roupa
tenha tanto simbolismo e história
tenha tanto simbolismo e história
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
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e inclua tantos universos diferentes,
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
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como o moletom com capuz.
03:17
as the hoodie.
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Como todas as peças de roupa,
03:18
So, like all garments,
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especialmente todas aquelas
verdadeiramente funcionais,
verdadeiramente funcionais,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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é muito básico em seu design;
03:25
But at the same time,
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mas, ao mesmo tempo,
tem todo um universo
de possibilidades associado.
de possibilidades associado.
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com