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Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
Paola Antonelli: Sejarah 3000 tahun hoodie
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Hoodie bukan hanya sekadar kaus yang nyaman. Kurator desain Paola Antonelli membawa kita menelusuri sejarahnya.
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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Hoodie adalah sesuatu yang menakjubkan.
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
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Inilah salah satu barang abadi
yang jarang kita pikirkan,
yang jarang kita pikirkan,
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
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karena sangat berguna
sampai menjadi bagian hidup kita.
sampai menjadi bagian hidup kita.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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Kita menyebutnya "karya sederhana."
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[Hal kecil.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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[Ide besar.]
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
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[Paola Antonelli dalam the Hoodie]
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
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Hoddie telah menjadi --
meskipun tak disebut demikian --
meskipun tak disebut demikian --
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
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seiring berjalannya waktu
telah menjadi ikon sepanjang sejarah.
telah menjadi ikon sepanjang sejarah.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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Karya pertama yang bisa kita telusuri
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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berasal dari Yunani kuno dan Romawi kuno.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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Pada abad pertengahan, banyak biksu
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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mengenakan pakaian yang mirip mantol,
dengan hoodie di belakangnya,
dengan hoodie di belakangnya,
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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maka disebut, "hoodie."
00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
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Para wanita di abad ke-17
mengenakan hoodie
mengenakan hoodie
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
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untuk menyembunyikan diri
saat akan bertemu dengan kekasihnya.
saat akan bertemu dengan kekasihnya.
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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Lalu, tentu saja,
muncullah legenda, serta fantasi.
muncullah legenda, serta fantasi.
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
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Ada kesan bahwa hoodie
terkait dengan sang malaikat maut.
terkait dengan sang malaikat maut.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
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Ada kesan bahwa hoddie
terkait dengan algojo.
terkait dengan algojo.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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Maka itulah sisi gelap hoodie.
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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Inkarnasi modern hoodie --
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
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pakaian yang biasanya
dibuat dari katun jersey,
dibuat dari katun jersey,
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
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dengan kerudung
di belakangnya dan juga tali;
di belakangnya dan juga tali;
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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kadang ada kantong mirip kangguru --
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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diperkenalkan pada tahun 1930
oleh Perusahaan Rajut Knickerbocker.
oleh Perusahaan Rajut Knickerbocker.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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Sekarang disebut Champion.
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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Dulu, untuk menghangatkan
badan para atlit.
badan para atlit.
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
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Meski begitu, tentu saja ini
adalah pakaian yang nyaman dan berfungsi,
adalah pakaian yang nyaman dan berfungsi,
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
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sehingga begitu cepat dipakai
oleh para pekerja di mana-mana.
oleh para pekerja di mana-mana.
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
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Lalu, sekitar tahun 1980-an, juga dipakai
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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oleh hip-hop dan B-boys,
para pemain skateboard,
para pemain skateboard,
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
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dan menjadi semacam
budaya jalanan kaum muda.
budaya jalanan kaum muda.
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
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Bersamaan dengan itu, sangat nyaman,
01:52
perfect for the streets
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gaya jalanan sempurna,
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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juga memiliki nilai tambah anonimitas,
01:57
when you needed it.
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saat dibutuhkan.
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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Lalu ada Mark Zuckerberg,
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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yang menentang
tradisi berpakaian para pebisnis.
tradisi berpakaian para pebisnis.
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
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Tapi yang menarik, ini juga sebagai cara
menunjukkan bahwa kekuatan telah berubah.
menunjukkan bahwa kekuatan telah berubah.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
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Jika mengenakan setelan,
mungkin Anda seorang bodyguard.
mungkin Anda seorang bodyguard.
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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Orang kuat yang sebenarnya
mengenakan hoodie dengan kaos dan jins.
mengenakan hoodie dengan kaos dan jins.
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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Memikirkan aspek fisik
dari hoodie adalah mudah.
dari hoodie adalah mudah.
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
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Kerudungnya bisa diangkat dengan cepat,
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
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dan kehangatan serta perlindungan
akan segera terasa,
akan segera terasa,
02:26
but at the same time,
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tapi bersamaan dengan itu,
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
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aspek psikologisnya juga bisa dirasakan.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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Cobalah mengenakan hoodie,
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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tiba-tiba, akan terasa lebih terlindungi,
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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akan terasa bagai berada
dalam tempurung sendiri.
dalam tempurung sendiri.
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
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Kita tahu bahwa
dalam beberapa tahun terakhir
dalam beberapa tahun terakhir
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
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hoodie telah menjadi
simbol di Amerika Serikat.
simbol di Amerika Serikat.
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
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Saat Trayvon Martin,
seorang anak Afrika-Amerika berumur 17,
seorang anak Afrika-Amerika berumur 17,
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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ditembak oleh seorang tetangga
yang main hakim sendiri,
yang main hakim sendiri,
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
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dan Jutaan Barisan Hoodie
menyeruak di seluruh Amerika Serikat,
menyeruak di seluruh Amerika Serikat,
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
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semua orang mengenakan
hoodie dengan kerudung di kepalanya,
hoodie dengan kerudung di kepalanya,
03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
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dan berbaris di jalan
melawan prasangka semacam ini.
melawan prasangka semacam ini.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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Ini tidak begitu sering terjadi,
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
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bahwa sebuah pakaian memiliki
simbol dan sejarah yang begitu besar,
simbol dan sejarah yang begitu besar,
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
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yang juga meliputi
kekayaan yang begitu beragam
kekayaan yang begitu beragam
03:17
as the hoodie.
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seperti hoodie ini.
03:18
So, like all garments,
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Seperti semua jenis pakaian,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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khususnya pakaian yang fungsinya umum,
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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desainnya sangatlah biasa.
03:25
But at the same time,
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Namun juga,
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
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memiliki kekayaan
berbagai kemungkinan di dalamnya.
berbagai kemungkinan di dalamnya.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com