TEDGlobal 2009
Carolyn Steel: How food shapes our cities
Kerolin Stil (Carolyn Steel): Kako hrana oblikuje naše gradove
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Svakoga dana, u gradu veličine Londona, servira se 30 miliona obroka. Ali odakle dolazi sva ta hrana? Arhitekta Kerolin Stil priča o svakodnevnoj čaroliji hranjenja grada i pokazuje kako su davni putevi hrane oblikovali moderni svet.
Carolyn Steel - Food urbanist
Food is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved. Full bio
Food is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
How do you feed a city?
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Kako nahraniti grad?
00:16
It's one of the great questions of our time.
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To je jedno od najvećih pitanja našeg vremena.
00:18
Yet it's one that's rarely asked.
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Ipak, ono se retko postavlja.
00:20
We take it for granted that if we go into a shop
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Uzimamo zdravo za gotovo to da, kada uđemo u prodavnicu
00:23
or restaurant, or indeed into this theater's foyer in about an hour's time,
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ili restoran, ili u foaje pozorišta za nekih sat vremena,
00:27
there is going to be food there waiting for us,
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tamo nas čeka hrana
00:30
having magically come from somewhere.
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koja je magično došla od nekud.
00:32
But when you think that every day for a city the size of London,
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Ali kada pomislite da svakog dana, za grad veličine Londona,
00:37
enough food has to be produced,
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dovoljna količina hrane mora da se proizvede,
00:40
transported, bought and sold,
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da se transportuje, kupi i proda,
00:43
cooked, eaten, disposed of,
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skuva, pojede i odbaci,
00:47
and that something similar has to happen every day
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i da nešto slično tome mora de se desi svaki dan
00:49
for every city on earth,
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za svaki grad na Zemlji,
00:51
it's remarkable that cities get fed at all.
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neverovatno je da se gradovi uopšte hrane.
00:54
We live in places like this as if
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Živimo u ovakvim mestima kao da su
00:56
they're the most natural things in the world,
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oni najprirodnija stvar na svetu,
00:59
forgetting that because we're animals
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zaboravljajući da, pošto smo životinje
01:01
and that we need to eat,
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i moramo da jedemo,
01:03
we're actually as dependent on the natural world
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zapravo zavisimo od prirode
01:07
as our ancient ancestors were.
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baš kao što su i naši preci zavisili.
01:09
And as more of us move into cities,
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Kako se sve više nas seli u gradove,
01:11
more of that natural world is being
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sve više se priroda
01:14
transformed into extraordinary landscapes like the one behind me --
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transformiše u neverovatne predele kao što je ovaj iza mene,
01:17
it's soybean fields in Mato Grosso in Brazil --
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to je polje soje u Mata Grosu u Brazilu,
01:20
in order to feed us.
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kako bismo se nahranili.
01:23
These are extraordinary landscapes,
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Ovo su izuzetni predeli.
01:25
but few of us ever get to see them.
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Ali malo nas ih uopšte vidi.
01:27
And increasingly these landscapes
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Štaviše, ovi predeli
01:29
are not just feeding us either.
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ne služe samo za našu ishranu.
01:31
As more of us move into cities,
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Kako se sve više nas seli u gradove,
01:33
more of us are eating meat,
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više nas jede meso
01:35
so that a third of the annual grain crop globally
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tako da trećina godišnje proizvodnje žita na svetu
01:38
now gets fed to animals
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služi za ishranu životinja,
01:40
rather than to us human animals.
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a ne nas ljudskih životinja.
01:42
And given that it takes three times as much grain --
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I znajući da je potrebno tri puta više žita -
01:46
actually ten times as much grain --
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zapravo deset puta više žita -
01:48
to feed a human if it's passed through an animal first,
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da se nahrani jedan čovek ako je ono prvo prošlo kroz životinju,
01:51
that's not a very efficient way of feeding us.
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onda to nije baš efikasan način da se nahranimo.
01:56
And it's an escalating problem too.
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To je rastući problem.
01:58
By 2050, it's estimated that twice the number
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Procenjeno je da će do 2050. duplo više
02:01
of us are going to be living in cities.
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nas živeti u gradovima.
02:03
And it's also estimated that there is going to be twice as much
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Takođe je procenjeno da će se konzumirati duplo
02:05
meat and dairy consumed.
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više mesa i mlečnih proizvoda.
02:07
So meat and urbanism are rising hand in hand.
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Tako da meso i urbanizam rastu ruku pod ruku.
02:12
And that's going to pose an enormous problem.
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To će predstavljati ogroman problem.
02:14
Six billion hungry carnivores to feed,
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Nahraniti šest milijardi gladnih mesojeda
02:17
by 2050.
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do 2050.
02:21
That's a big problem. And actually if we carry on as we are,
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To je velik problem. Zapravo, ako nastavimo ovako,
02:23
it's a problem we're very unlikely to be able to solve.
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to je problem koji verovatno nećemo biti spospobni da rešimo.
02:26
Nineteen million hectares of rainforest are lost every year
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Svakog dana se izgubi 19 miliona hektara prašuma
02:30
to create new arable land.
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da bi se napravila obradiva zemlja.
02:32
Although at the same time we're losing an equivalent amount
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Iako u isto vreme gubimo istu količinu
02:35
of existing arables to salinization and erosion.
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postojećih obradivih površina zbog salinizacije i erozije.
02:39
We're very hungry for fossil fuels too.
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Veoma smo gladni za fosilnim gorivima, takođe.
02:42
It takes about 10 calories to produce every calorie
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Potrebno je otprilike 10 kalorija da bi se proizvela svaka kalorija
02:45
of food that we consume in the West.
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hrane koju konzumiramo na zapadu.
02:49
And even though there is food that we are producing at great cost,
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Iako prozvodimo hranu po visokoj ceni,
02:53
we don't actually value it.
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mi je zapravo ne cenimo.
02:55
Half the food produced in the USA is currently thrown away.
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Trenutno se polovina hrane proizvedene u SAD baci.
02:59
And to end all of this, at the end of this long process,
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Na kraju ovog dugog procesa,
03:02
we're not even managing to feed the planet properly.
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ne uspevamo ni da pravilno nahranimo planetu.
03:05
A billion of us are obese, while a further billion starve.
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Milijarda ljudi je gojazna, dok milijarda ljudi gladuje.
03:10
None of it makes very much sense.
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Ništa od toga nema mnogo smisla.
03:12
And when you think that 80 percent of global trade in food now
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Kada pomislite da 80% svetske trgovine hranom
03:15
is controlled by just five multinational corporations,
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kontroliše samo 5 multinacionalnih korporacija,
03:20
it's a grim picture.
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to je jeziva slika.
03:22
As we're moving into cities, the world is also embracing a Western diet.
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Kako se selimo u gradove, svet prihvata zapadnjački načih ishrane.
03:25
And if we look to the future,
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Ako pogledamo u budućnost,
03:28
it's an unsustainable diet.
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to je neodrživ način ishrane.
03:30
So how did we get here?
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Kako smo dospeli ovde?
03:32
And more importantly, what are we going to do about it?
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I što je važnije, šta ćemo da uradimo u vezi s tim?
03:35
Well, to answer the slightly easier question first,
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Pa, da prvo odgovorim na malo lakše pitanje,
03:39
about 10,000 years ago, I would say,
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rekla bih da je početak ovog
03:41
is the beginning of this process
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procesa pre 10 000 godina.
03:43
in the ancient Near East,
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Na antičkom Bliskom istoku,
03:45
known as the Fertile Crescent.
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u oblasti Plodnog Polumeseca (Mesopotamija).
03:47
Because, as you can see, it was crescent shaped.
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Jer kao što vidite bila je oblika polumeseca.
03:49
And it was also fertile.
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I bila je plodna.
03:51
And it was here, about 10,000 years ago,
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I na tom mestu, pre oko 10 000 godina
03:54
that two extraordinary inventions,
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nastala su dva izuzetna otkrića,
03:56
agriculture and urbanism, happened
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poljoprivreda i urbanizam,
03:59
roughly in the same place and at the same time.
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otprilike na istom mestu, u isto vreme.
04:02
This is no accident,
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Ovo nije slučajnost.
04:04
because agriculture and cities are bound together. They need each other.
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Jer poljoprivreda i gradovi su povezani. Potrebni su jedno drugom.
04:08
Because it was discovery of grain
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Naši antički preci
04:10
by our ancient ancestors for the first time
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su prvi otkrili žito i to je bio
04:13
that produced a food source that was large enough
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dovoljno velik izvor hrane,
04:16
and stable enough to support permanent settlements.
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i dovoljno stabilan da izdržava stalna naselja.
04:20
And if we look at what those settlements were like,
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I kada pogledamo kakva su bila ta naselja,
04:22
we see they were compact.
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vidimo da su bila zbijena.
04:24
They were surrounded by productive farm land
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Bila su okružena plodnom zemljom
04:26
and dominated by large temple complexes
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a veliki hramovi su dominirali,
04:29
like this one at Ur,
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kao ovaj u Uru,
04:31
that were, in fact, effectively,
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koji su ustvari bili
04:33
spiritualized, central food distribution centers.
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produhovljeni centri za distribuciju hrane,
04:36
Because it was the temples that organized the harvest,
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jer su hramovi organizovali žetve,
04:39
gathered in the grain, offered it to the gods,
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sakupljali žito, nudili ga bogovima
04:41
and then offered the grain that the gods didn't eat back to the people.
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i onda davali ljudima žito koje bogovi nisu pojeli.
04:45
So, if you like,
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Dakle, recimo
04:47
the whole spiritual and physical life of these cities
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da se sav duhovni i fizički život ovih gradova
04:49
was dominated by the grain and the harvest
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vrteo oko žita i žetve
04:52
that sustained them.
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koja ih je održavala.
04:55
And in fact, that's true of every ancient city.
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Ustvari, to je tako bilo u svakom antičkom gradu.
04:58
But of course not all of them were that small.
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Ali naravno, nisu svi bili tako mali.
05:00
Famously, Rome had about a million citizens
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Rim je imao oko milion stanovnika
05:03
by the first century A.D.
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do prvog veka nove ere.
05:05
So how did a city like this feed itself?
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Kako se hranio jedan ovakav grad?
05:09
The answer is what I call "ancient food miles."
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Odgovor je ono što nazivam "antički put hrane".
05:12
Basically, Rome had access to the sea,
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Za početak, Rim je imao pristup moru,
05:15
which made it possible for it to import food from a very long way away.
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što je omogućavalo da uvozi hranu iz veoma dalekih krajeva.
05:18
This is the only way it was possible to do this in the ancient world,
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Ovo je bio jedini način da se ovo uradi u antičkom svetu,
05:21
because it was very difficult to transport food over roads,
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jer je bilo veoma teško transportovati hranu putevima
05:24
which were rough.
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koji su bili neravni.
05:26
And the food obviously went off very quickly.
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A očigledno je hrana brzo trošena.
05:28
So Rome effectively waged war
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Tako je Rim vešto izvojevao rat
05:30
on places like Carthage and Egypt
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u Kartagini i Egiptu,
05:33
just to get its paws on their grain reserves.
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samo da bi se dočepao njihovih rezervi žita.
05:35
And, in fact, you could say that the expansion of the Empire
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Ustvari, moglo bi se reći da je širenje Carstva
05:38
was really sort of one long, drawn out
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ustvari bilo jedan dug, spor
05:41
militarized shopping spree, really.
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militarizovani pohod u kupovinu.
05:43
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
05:45
In fact -- I love the fact, I just have to mention this:
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Ustvari - volim ovu činjenicu, moram da je pomenem:
05:47
Rome in fact used to import oysters from London,
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Rim je ustvari uvozio ostrige iz Londona
05:50
at one stage. I think that's extraordinary.
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u jednom trenutku. Mislim da je to izvanredno.
05:52
So Rome shaped its hinterland
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Tako je Rim oblikovao svoje zaleđe
05:55
through its appetite.
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kroz svoj apetit.
05:57
But the interesting thing is that the other thing also
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Interesantno je da se još nešto
05:59
happened in the pre-industrial world.
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desilo u pre-industrijskom svetu.
06:01
If we look at a map of London in the 17th century,
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Ako pogledamo mapu Londona iz sedamnaestog veka,
06:04
we can see that its grain, which is coming in from the Thames,
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vidimo da žito dolazi Temzom,
06:07
along the bottom of this map.
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na dnu ove mape.
06:09
So the grain markets were to the south of the city.
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Znači, žitne pijace su bile na jugu grada.
06:12
And the roads leading up from them
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A putevi koji vode od njih
06:14
to Cheapside, which was the main market,
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do Čipsajda (Cheapside), što je bila glavna pijaca,
06:16
were also grain markets.
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su takođe bili žitne pijace.
06:18
And if you look at the name of one of those streets,
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I ako pogledate ime jedne od tih ulica,
06:20
Bread Street, you can tell
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Bread Street (Ulica Hleba), jasno vam je
06:23
what was going on there 300 years ago.
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šta se tu događalo pre 300 godina.
06:26
And the same of course was true for fish.
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I naravno, isto važi za ribu.
06:28
Fish was, of course, coming in by river as well. Same thing.
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Riba je takođe dolazila rekom. Ista stvar.
06:31
And of course Billingsgate, famously, was London's fish market,
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Naravno, čuveni Bilingsgejt (Billingsgate) je prva londonska riblja pijaca,
06:34
operating on-site here until the mid-1980s.
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koja je na tom mestu radila do polovine osamdesetih.
06:38
Which is extraordinary, really, when you think about it.
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Što je izuzetno, kad razmislite.
06:40
Everybody else was wandering around
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Svi su lutali okolo
06:42
with mobile phones that looked like bricks
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sa mobilnim telefonima koji su izgledali kao cigle
06:44
and sort of smelly fish happening down on the port.
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a smrdljiva riba se zadesila tu u luci.
06:47
This is another thing about food in cities:
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To je još jedna stvari u vezi s hranom u gradovima:
06:50
Once its roots into the city are established,
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kada se ustanove putevi kojima dolazi,
06:53
they very rarely move.
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veoma retko se menjaju.
06:55
Meat is a very different story
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Meso je sasvim drugačija priča
06:57
because, of course, animals could walk into the city.
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jer, naravno, životinje su mogle da ušetaju u grad.
06:59
So much of London's meat
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Veoma mnogo mesa je u London
07:01
was coming from the northwest,
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dolazilo sa severozapada,
07:03
from Scotland and Wales.
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iz Škotske i Velsa.
07:05
So it was coming in, and arriving at the city at the northwest,
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Dolazilo je, stizalo u grad sa severozapada,
07:08
which is why Smithfield,
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i zato se Smitfild (Smithfield),
07:10
London's very famous meat market, was located up there.
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poznata londonska mesna pijaca, nalazila tamo.
07:13
Poultry was coming in from East Anglia and so on, to the northeast.
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Živina je dolazila iz Istočne Anglije, sa severoistoka.
07:17
I feel a bit like a weather woman doing this. Anyway,
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Pomalo se osećam kao na vremenskoj prognozi. Kako god.
07:18
and so the birds were coming in
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Ptice su dolazile
07:22
with their feet protected with little canvas shoes.
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sa nogama zaštićenim malim platnenim cipelama.
07:25
And then when they hit the eastern end
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I kada bi stigle u istočni kraj
07:27
of Cheapside, that's where they were sold,
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Čipsajda, tu bi bile prodate.
07:29
which is why it's called Poultry.
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Zato se zove Poultry (živina).
07:31
And, in fact, if you look at the map of any city
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Ustvari, ako biste pogledali mapu bilo kog grada
07:34
built before the industrial age,
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pre industrijskog doba,
07:38
you can trace food coming in to it.
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videli biste kuda je hrana dolazila.
07:40
You can actually see how it was physically shaped by food,
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Možete stvarno videti kako je fizički oblikovan hranom,
07:43
both by reading the names of the streets, which give you a lot of clues.
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i čitajući imena ulica, koja daju dosta znakova.
07:46
Friday Street, in a previous life,
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Friday Street (Ulica petka), u ranijem životu,
07:48
is where you went to buy your fish on a Friday.
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je ulica gde ste kupovali ribu petkom.
07:50
But also you have to imagine it full of food.
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Ali morate je zamisliti punu hrane.
07:52
Because the streets and the public spaces
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Jer su ulice i javna mesta
07:55
were the only places where food was bought and sold.
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bila jedina mesta gde je hrana prodavana i kupovana.
07:58
And if we look at an image of Smithfield in 1830
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Ako pogledamo sliku Smitfilda iz 1830.
08:01
you can see that it would have been very difficult to live in a city like this
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vidite da bi bilo veoma teško živeti u ovakvom gradu
08:04
and be unaware of where your food came from.
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i ne znati odakle dolazi vaša hrana.
08:06
In fact, if you were having Sunday lunch,
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Zapravo, ako ste ručali nedeljom,
08:08
the chances were it was mooing or bleating outside your window
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velike su šanse bile da je vaš ručak mukao i blejao
08:10
about three days earlier.
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ispred vašeg prozora samo tri dana ranije.
08:12
So this was obviously an organic city,
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Ovo je očigledno bio organski grad,
08:15
part of an organic cycle.
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deo organskog ciklusa.
08:18
And then 10 years later everything changed.
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I onda deset godina kasnije sve se promenilo.
08:21
This is an image of the Great Western in 1840.
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Ovo je slika Velike Zapadne Železnice iz 1840.
08:24
And as you can see, some of the earliest train passengers
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Kao što vidite, neki od najranijih putnika
08:26
were pigs and sheep.
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bile su svinje i ovce.
08:28
So all of a sudden, these animals are no longer walking into market.
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Odjednom ove životinje više ne ulaze u pijacu.
08:32
They're being slaughtered out of sight and mind,
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Kolju ih van vidokruga i van svesti,
08:34
somewhere in the countryside.
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negde u selima.
08:36
And they're coming into the city by rail.
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A u gradove dolaze vozom.
08:38
And this changes everything.
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Ovo menja sve.
08:41
To start off with, it makes it possible
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Za početak, omogućava
08:43
for the first time to grow cities,
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po prvi put nastajanje gradova,
08:44
really any size and shape, in any place.
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bilo koje veličine i oblika, bilo gde.
08:46
Cities used to be constrained by geography;
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Gradovi su nekada bili ograničeni geografijom:
08:50
they used to have to get their food through very difficult physical means.
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morali su da dopreme hranu veoma zahtevnim fizičkim sredstvima.
08:53
All of a sudden they are effectively emancipated from geography.
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Najednom su efektno oslobođeni geografije.
08:57
And as you can see from these maps of London,
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I kao što možete videti iz ovih mapa Londona,
09:00
in the 90 years after the trains came,
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za 90 godina od postanka voza,
09:02
it goes from being a little blob that was quite easy to feed
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od male grudve koju je prilično lako nahraniti,
09:06
by animals coming in on foot, and so on,
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životinjama koje same dolaze, i slično,
09:08
to a large splurge,
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postali su veliko razmetanje
09:10
that would be very, very difficult to feed with anybody on foot,
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koje bi bilo veoma, veoma teško nahraniti peške,
09:13
either animals or people.
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bilo da se radi o životinjama ili ljudima.
09:16
And of course that was just the beginning. After the trains came cars,
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To je naravno bio samo početak. Posle vozova došli su automobili.
09:19
and really this marks the end of this process.
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I ovde je stvarno kraj ovog procesa.
09:23
It's the final emancipation of the city
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To je konačno odvajanje grada
09:25
from any apparent relationship with nature at all.
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od bilo kakve očigledne veze sa prirodom.
09:28
And this is the kind of city that's devoid of smell,
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To je grad lišen mirisa,
09:31
devoid of mess, certainly devoid of people,
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lišen nereda i sigurno lišen ljudi.
09:33
because nobody would have dreamed of walking in such a landscape.
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Jer niko ne bi ni pomišljao da šeta u takvom okruženju.
09:36
In fact, what they did to get food was they got in their cars,
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Ustvari, do hrane su dolazili tako što bi seli u svoja kola,
09:39
drove to a box somewhere on the outskirts,
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odvezli se do neke kutije na periferiji,
09:42
came back with a week's worth of shopping,
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vratili se sa hranom za nedelju dana
09:44
and wondered what on earth to do with it.
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i pitali se šta će, zaboga, da rade s tim.
09:46
And this really is the moment when our relationship,
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I ovo je zapravo trenutak kada se naša veza,
09:49
both with food and cities, changes completely.
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sa hranom i sa gradovima, potpuno menja.
09:52
Here we have food -- that used to be the center,
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Imamo hranu - koja je bila centar,
09:55
the social core of the city -- at the periphery.
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društvena srž grada - na periferiji.
09:58
It used to be a social event, buying and selling food.
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Kupovina i prodaja hrane bila je društveni događaj.
10:00
Now it's anonymous.
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Sada je anonimna.
10:02
We used to cook; now we just add water,
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Nekada smo kuvali; sada samo dodamo vodu,
10:04
or a little bit of an egg if you're making a cake or something.
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ili pokoje jaje, ako pravite tortu ili nešto drugo.
10:09
We don't smell food to see if it's okay to eat.
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Ne mirišemo hranu da vidimo da li je dobra za jelo.
10:13
We just read the back of a label on a packet.
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Samo pročitamo deklaraciju na pozadini pakovanja.
10:16
And we don't value food. We don't trust it.
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I ne cenimo hranu. Ne verujemo joj.
10:19
So instead of trusting it, we fear it.
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Umesto da joj verujemo, mi je se bojimo.
10:21
And instead of valuing it, we throw it away.
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I umesto da je cenimo, mi je bacamo.
10:25
One of the great ironies of modern food systems
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Jedna od najvećih ironija modernih sistema hrane
10:28
is that they've made the very thing they promised
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je ta da su ono što su obećali da će olakšati,
10:30
to make easier much harder.
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ustvari otežali.
10:32
By making it possible to build cities anywhere and any place,
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Omogućivši izgradnju gradova bilo gde, na bilo kom mestu,
10:36
they've actually distanced us from our most important relationship,
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ustvari su nas udaljili od naše najvažnije veze,
10:40
which is that of us and nature.
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a to je naša veza sa prirodom.
10:43
And also they've made us dependent on systems that only they can deliver,
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I napravili su nas zavisnim od sistema koje jedino oni mogu održati,
10:46
that, as we've seen, are unsustainable.
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a koji su, videli smo, neodrživi.
10:48
So what are we going to do about that?
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I šta ćemo da uradimo u vezi sa tim?
10:51
It's not a new question.
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Ovo nije novo pitanje.
10:53
500 years ago it's what Thomas More was asking himself.
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Tomas Mor (Thomas More) se pre 500 godina isto ovo pitao.
10:57
This is the frontispiece of his book "Utopia."
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To je lice njegove knjige "Utopija".
11:00
And it was a series of semi-independent city-states,
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To je bio niz polu-nezavisnih gradova-država,
11:03
if that sounds remotely familiar,
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ako to zvuči donekle poznato,
11:05
a day's walk from one another where everyone was basically farming-mad,
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na dan hoda jedan od drugog, gde su svi bili ludi za poljoprivredom,
11:08
and grew vegetables in their back gardens,
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gajili su povrće u svojim dvorištima,
11:10
and ate communal meals together, and so on.
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i jeli zajednička jela, itd.
11:12
And I think you could argue that
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I mislim da može da se tvrdi da je
11:14
food is a fundamental ordering principle of Utopia,
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hrana osnovni princip uređenja Utopije.
11:17
even though More never framed it that way.
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Iako Mor nikada to nije na taj način postavio.
11:20
And here is another very famous "Utopian" vision,
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Evo još jedne veoma poznate "Utopijske" vizije,
11:23
that of Ebenezer Howard, "The Garden City."
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"The Garden City" od Ebenezera Hauarda (Ebenezer Howard).
11:25
Same idea: series of semi-independent city-states,
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Ista ideja. Niz polu-nezavisnih gradova-država.
11:28
little blobs of metropolitan stuff with arable land around,
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Male grudve gradova sa obradivom zemljom okolo,
11:32
joined to one another by railway.
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povezane međusobno prugom.
11:34
And again, food could be said to be
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I opet, moglo bi se reći da je hrana
11:36
the ordering principle of his vision.
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princip uređenja u ovoj viziji.
11:39
It even got built, but nothing to do with
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Čak je i izgrađena, ali nema nikakve veze
11:41
this vision that Howard had.
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sa Hauardovom vizijom.
11:43
And that is the problem with these Utopian ideas,
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I to je problem sa ovim utopijskim idejama,
11:46
that they are Utopian.
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što su utopijske.
11:48
Utopia was actually a word that Thomas Moore used deliberately.
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Utopija je reč koju je Tomas Mor koristio namerno.
11:51
It was a kind of joke, because it's got a double derivation from the Greek.
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To je bila neka šala. Ima dvostruko poreklo iz grčkog.
11:55
It can either mean a good place, or no place.
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Može da znači dobro mesto ili nikakvo mesto.
11:57
Because it's an ideal. It's an imaginary thing. We can't have it.
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Jer to je ideal. Imaginarna stvar. Ne možemo je imati.
12:01
And I think, as a conceptual tool
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I mislim, kao konceptualni alat
12:03
for thinking about the very deep problem of human dwelling,
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za razmišljanje o veoma dubokom problemu ljudskog stanovanja,
12:06
that makes it not much use.
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nije od neke koristi.
12:08
So I've come up with an alternative,
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Tako sam smislila alternativu,
12:11
which is Sitopia, from the ancient Greek,
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Sitopiju, od starogrčkog
12:14
"sitos" for food, and "topos" for place.
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"sitos" za hranu i "topos" za mesto.
12:16
I believe we already live in Sitopia.
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Mislim da već živimo u Sitopiji.
12:18
We live in a world shaped by food,
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Živimo u svetu koji je oblikovan hranom,
12:21
and if we realize that, we can use food as a really powerful tool --
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i ako to shvatimo, možemo iskoristiti hranu kao veoma moćan alat -
12:24
a conceptual tool, design tool, to shape the world differently.
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konceptualni alat, alat dizajna, za drugačije oblikovanje sveta.
12:28
So if we were to do that, what might Sitopia look like?
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Dakle, da možemo to da uradimo, kako bi Sitopia izgledala?
12:33
Well I think it looks a bit like this.
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Mislim da izgleda ovako nekako.
12:35
I have to use this slide. It's just the look on the face of the dog.
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Moram da upotrebim ovaj slajd. Taj izraz lica ovog psa.
12:37
But anyway, this is -- (Laughter)
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Ali, ovo je - (smeh)
12:40
it's food at the center of life,
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hrana je u centru života,
12:42
at the center of family life, being celebrated,
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u centru porodičnog života, slavi se,
12:44
being enjoyed, people taking time for it.
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uživa se u njoj, ljudi odvajaju vreme za hranu.
12:46
This is where food should be in our society.
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To je mesto gde bi hrana trebalo da se nalazi u našem društvu.
12:49
But you can't have scenes like this unless you have people like this.
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Ali ne možete imati ovakve prizore ako nemate ovakve ljude.
12:54
By the way, these can be men as well.
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Inače, ovo mogu biti i muškarci.
12:56
It's people who think about food,
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To su ljudi koji razmišljaju o hrani,
12:59
who think ahead, who plan,
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koji razmišljaju unapred, planiraju,
13:01
who can stare at a pile of raw vegetables
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koji mogu da zure u gomilu povrća
13:03
and actually recognize them.
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i da je prepoznaju.
13:05
We need these people. We're part of a network.
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Potrebni su nam takvi ljudi. Mi smo deo mreže.
13:08
Because without these kinds of people we can't have places like this.
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Jer bez ovakvih ljudi ne možemo imati ovakva mesta.
13:11
Here, I deliberately chose this because it is a man buying a vegetable.
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Namerno sam izabrala ovo jer jedan muškarac kupuje povrće.
13:14
But networks, markets where food is being grown locally.
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Ali mreže, pijace gde se hrana gaji na lokalnom nivou.
13:18
It's common. It's fresh.
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Zajedničko je. Sveže je.
13:20
It's part of the social life of the city.
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Deo je društvenog života grada.
13:22
Because without that, you can't have this kind of place,
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Jer bez toga ne možete imati ovakvo mesto,
13:25
food that is grown locally and also is part of the landscape,
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hranu koja se gaji lokalno ali je i deo predela,
13:28
and is not just a zero-sum commodity
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a nije samo roba kao kompromisno rešenje
13:30
off in some unseen hell-hole.
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negde bogu iza nogu.
13:32
Cows with a view.
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Krave sa pogledom.
13:34
Steaming piles of humus.
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Gomile humusa koji se puši.
13:36
This is basically bringing the whole thing together.
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Ovo ustvari sklapa celu stvar.
13:39
And this is a community project
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Ovo je projekat jedne zajednice
13:41
I visited recently in Toronto.
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koju sam nedavno posetila u Torontu.
13:43
It's a greenhouse, where kids get told
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To je staklena bašta gde se deci priča
13:45
all about food and growing their own food.
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sve o hrani i gajenju svoje hrane.
13:48
Here is a plant called Kevin, or maybe it's a
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Ovo je biljka koja se zove Kevin, ili možda
13:51
plant belonging to a kid called Kevin. I don't know.
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biljka koja pripada klincu koji se zove Kevin, ne znam.
13:53
But anyway, these kinds of projects
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U svakom slučaju, ovakvi projekti
13:56
that are trying to reconnect us with nature is extremely important.
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koji pokušavaju da nas ponovo spoje sa prirodom su veoma važni.
14:00
So Sitopia, for me, is really a way of seeing.
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Za mene je Sitopia način gledanja.
14:02
It's basically recognizing that Sitopia
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Treba prepoznati da Sitopia
14:06
already exists in little pockets everywhere.
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već postoji u malim krajevima svuda.
14:08
The trick is to join them up,
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Trik je u tome da se povežu,
14:10
to use food as a way of seeing.
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da se hrana koristi kao način posmatranja.
14:13
And if we do that, we're going to stop seeing cities
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I ako to uradimo, prestaćemo da gledamo gradove
14:16
as big, metropolitan, unproductive blobs, like this.
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kao velike neproduktivne grudve, kao što je ova.
14:19
We're going to see them more like this,
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Videćemo ih ovako,
14:21
as part of the productive, organic framework
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kao deo produktivne organske mreže
14:24
of which they are inevitably a part,
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čiji su neizbežni deo,
14:26
symbiotically connected.
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simbiotski povezani.
14:28
But of course, that's not a great image either,
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Ali naravno, ni to nije najbolja slika.
14:30
because we need not to be producing food like this anymore.
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Jer moramo prestati da proizvodimo ovakvu hranu.
14:33
We need to be thinking more about permaculture,
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Trebalo bi da razmišljamo o permakulturi.
14:35
which is why I think this image just
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Zato mislim da ova slika
14:37
sums up for me the kind of thinking we need to be doing.
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sumira, po meni, način razmišljanja koji na je potreban.
14:39
It's a re-conceptualization
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To je rekonceptualizacija
14:41
of the way food shapes our lives.
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načina na koji hrana oblikuje naše živote.
14:44
The best image I know of this is from 650 years ago.
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Najbolja slika ovoga za koju znam je od pre 650 godina.
14:47
It's Ambrogio Lorenzetti's "Allegory of Good Government."
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"Alegorija dobre vlade", od Ambrozija Lorencetija (Ambrogio Lorenzetti).
14:50
It's about the relationship between the city and the countryside.
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O vezi između grada i sela.
14:53
And I think the message of this is very clear.
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Mislim da je poruka ovoga veoma jasna.
14:56
If the city looks after the country,
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Ako grad vodi računa o selu,
14:58
the country will look after the city.
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selo će voditi računa o gradu.
15:00
And I want us to ask now,
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Želim da pitam
15:02
what would Ambrogio Lorenzetti paint
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šta bi Ambrozije Lorenceti naslikao
15:05
if he painted this image today?
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da je slikao ovu sliku danas.
15:07
What would an allegory of good government look like today?
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Kako bi alegorija dobre vlade izgledala danas?
15:10
Because I think it's an urgent question.
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Mislim da je to hitno pitanje.
15:12
It's one we have to ask,
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Koje moramo da pitamo
15:14
and we have to start answering.
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i moramo početi da odgovaramo.
15:16
We know we are what we eat.
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Znamo da smo ono što jedemo.
15:19
We need to realize that the world is also what we eat.
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Moramo da shvatimo da je i svet ono što jedemo.
15:21
But if we take that idea, we can use food
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I ako prihvatimo tu ideju, možemo koristiti hranu
15:23
as a really powerful tool to shape the world better.
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kao moćan alat da bolje oblikujemo svet.
15:27
Thank you very much.
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Mnogo vam hvala.
15:29
(Applause)
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(aplauz)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Carolyn Steel - Food urbanistFood is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved.
Why you should listen
The question of how to feed cities may be one of the biggest contemporary questions, yet it's never asked: we take for granted that if we walk into a store or a restaurant, food will be there, magically coming from somewhere. Yet, think of it this way: just in London, every single day, 30 million meals must be provided. Without a reliable food supply, even the most modern city would collapse quickly. And most people today eat food of whose provenance they are unaware.
Architect and author Carolyn Steel uses food as a medium to "read" cities and understand how they work. In her book Hungry City she traces -- and puts into historical context -- food's journey from land to urban table and thence to sewer. Cities, like people, are what they eat.
Carolyn Steel | Speaker | TED.com