TED2015
Chris Burkard: The joy of surfing in ice-cold water
Chris Burkard: Zadovoljstvo surfanja u ledenoj vodi
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"Sve što vrijedi slijediti tražiti će od nas da patimo, barem malo" kaže surferski fotograf Chris Burkard, objašnjavajući svoju opsesiju hladnim, uzburkanim i najizoliranijim plažama na zemlji. S fotografijama i pričama o mjestima koja nije vidjelo puno ljudi, a još manje ih je ondje surfalo, ostavlja nas bez teksta i uvlači u svoj osobni "križarski rat protiv svakodnevice".
Chris Burkard - Surf photographer
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:13
So if I told you that
this was the face of pure joy,
this was the face of pure joy,
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Ako vam kažem da je ovo izraz čiste sreće,
00:19
would you call me crazy?
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biste li me nazvali ludim?
00:22
I wouldn't blame you,
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Ne krivim vas,
00:23
because every time I look at this
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
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jer svaki put kada pogledam ovaj
arktički selfie, malo protrnem.
arktički selfie, malo protrnem.
00:28
I want to tell you
a little bit about this photograph.
a little bit about this photograph.
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Želim vam reći nešto o
ovoj fotografiji.
ovoj fotografiji.
00:31
I was swimming around
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
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Plivao sam oko Lofotenskih
otoka u Nizozemskoj,
otoka u Nizozemskoj,
00:35
just inside the Arctic Circle,
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unutar arktičkog kruga,
00:37
and the water was hovering
right at freezing.
right at freezing.
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i voda se smrzavala.
00:40
The air? A brisk -10 with windchill,
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Zrak? Svježih -10 s vjetrom
00:44
and I could literally feel the blood
trying to leave my hands,
trying to leave my hands,
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i doslovce sam mogao osjetiti kako
mi krv želi napustiti ruke,
mi krv želi napustiti ruke,
00:47
feet and face, and rush
to protect my vital organs.
to protect my vital organs.
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noge i lice kako bi zaštitila
vitalne organe.
vitalne organe.
00:52
It was the coldest I've ever been.
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Nikada mi nije bilo hladnije.
00:55
But even with swollen lips, sunken eyes,
and cheeks flushed red,
and cheeks flushed red,
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Ali čak i s naotečenim usnama,
ispijenih očiju i ružičastih obraza,
ispijenih očiju i ružičastih obraza,
00:59
I have found that this place right here
is somewhere I can find great joy.
is somewhere I can find great joy.
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shvatio sam da je ovo mjesto
gdje pronalazim veliku radost.
gdje pronalazim veliku radost.
01:06
Now, when it comes to pain,
psychologist Brock Bastian
psychologist Brock Bastian
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Kada se radi o boli,
psiholog Brock Bastian
psiholog Brock Bastian
01:09
probably said it best when he wrote,
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je vjerojatno bio u pravu kada je napisao:
01:11
"Pain is a kind of shortcut
to mindfulness.
to mindfulness.
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"Bol je na neki način
prečac do pozornosti.
prečac do pozornosti.
01:14
It makes us suddenly aware
of everything in the environment.
of everything in the environment.
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Odjednom postanemo svjesni
svega u okolini.
svega u okolini.
01:18
It brutally draws us in
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Brutalno nas uvuče u
01:20
to a virtual sensory awareness
of the world much like meditation."
of the world much like meditation."
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virtualno čulnu svjesnost
svijeta kao i meditacija."
svijeta kao i meditacija."
01:25
If shivering is a form of meditation,
then I would consider myself a monk.
then I would consider myself a monk.
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Ako je drhtanje oblik meditacije,
tada se smatram redovnikom.
tada se smatram redovnikom.
01:28
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
01:29
Now, before we get into the why
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Sad, prije nego krenemo s
01:32
would anyone ever want to surf
in freezing cold water?
in freezing cold water?
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razlozima zašto bi itko želio
surfati u ledeno hladnoj vodi,
surfati u ledeno hladnoj vodi,
01:35
I would love to give you
a little perspective
a little perspective
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volio bih vam dati perspektivu
01:38
on what a day in my life can look like.
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kako izgleda jedan dan u mom životu.
01:41
(Music)
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(Glazba)
02:28
(Video) Man: I mean, I know
we were hoping for good waves,
we were hoping for good waves,
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(Video) "Znam da smo se
danas nadali dobrim valovima,
danas nadali dobrim valovima,
02:31
but I don't think anybody thought
that was going to happen.
that was going to happen.
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ali nitko nije mislio da
će se ovo dogoditi.
će se ovo dogoditi.
02:34
I can't stop shaking.
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Ne mogu se prestati tresti.
02:36
I am so cold.
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Tako mi je hladno."
02:40
(Music)
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(Glazba)
02:43
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
02:48
Chris Burkard: So,
surf photographer, right?
surf photographer, right?
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Znači, surferski fotograf?
02:51
I don't even know
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
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Ne znam je li to naziv za
pravi posao, da budem iskren.
pravi posao, da budem iskren.
02:54
My parents definitely didn't think so
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Moji roditelji definitivno to nisu mislili
02:56
when I told them at 19 I was quitting
my job to pursue this dream career:
my job to pursue this dream career:
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kada sam im s 19 godine rekao da ću
ostavit posao kako bi krenuo za snom:
ostavit posao kako bi krenuo za snom:
03:01
blue skies, warm tropical beaches,
and a tan that lasts all year long.
and a tan that lasts all year long.
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plava neba, tople tropske plaže i
tamna koža tijekom cijele godine.
tamna koža tijekom cijele godine.
03:06
I mean, to me, this was it.
Life could not get any better.
Life could not get any better.
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Mislim, meni je to bilo to.
Život nije mogao biti bolji.
Život nije mogao biti bolji.
03:10
Sweating it out, shooting surfers
in these exotic tourist destinations.
in these exotic tourist destinations.
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Nervoza, fotkanje surfera
u egzotičnim destinacijama.
u egzotičnim destinacijama.
03:14
But there was just this one problem.
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Ali postojao je jedan problem.
03:16
You see, the more time I spent traveling
to these exotic locations,
to these exotic locations,
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Vidite, što sam više putovao u
te egzotične lokacije,
te egzotične lokacije,
03:20
the less gratifying it seemed to be.
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manje su mi zadovoljstva donosile.
03:23
I set out seeking adventure,
and what I was finding was only routine.
and what I was finding was only routine.
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Tražio sam avanturu,
a nalazio samo rutinu.
a nalazio samo rutinu.
03:27
It was things like wi-fi, TV, fine dining,
and a constant cellular connection
and a constant cellular connection
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Wi-fi, TV, fina klopa i konstantna
mobilna povezanost
mobilna povezanost
03:32
that to me were all the trappings
of places heavily touristed
of places heavily touristed
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su meni bile klopke mjesta
preplavljenih turistima,
preplavljenih turistima,
03:35
in and out of the water,
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izvan i u vodi,
03:37
and it didn't take long
for me to start feeling suffocated.
for me to start feeling suffocated.
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i nije dugo trajalo da me to počne gušiti.
03:43
I began craving wild, open spaces,
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Počeo sam žuditi za divljim,
otvorenim prostorima
otvorenim prostorima
03:47
and so I set out to find the places
others had written off
others had written off
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i tako sam počeo tražiti mjesta
koja su drugi otpisali kao
koja su drugi otpisali kao
03:50
as too cold, too remote,
and too dangerous to surf,
and too dangerous to surf,
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previše hladne, previše daleke i
previše opasne za surfanje,
previše opasne za surfanje,
03:54
and that challenge intrigued me.
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i taj izazov me zaintrigirao.
03:57
I began this sort of personal crusade
against the mundane,
against the mundane,
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Krenuo sam u taj osobni križarski
rat protiv svakodnevice,
rat protiv svakodnevice,
04:01
because if there's
one thing I've realized,
one thing I've realized,
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jer ako sam išta shvatio,
04:04
it's that any career,
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je da svaka karijera,
04:05
even one as seemingly glamorous
as surf photography,
as surf photography,
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čak i ona naizgled glamurozna,
surferskog fotografa,
surferskog fotografa,
04:09
has the danger of becoming monotonous.
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može postati monotona.
04:12
So in my search to break up
this monotony, I realized something:
this monotony, I realized something:
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U mojoj potrazi za razbijanjem
monotonije, shvatio sam da
monotonije, shvatio sam da
04:15
There's only about a third
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
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je samo jedna trećina
Zemljinih oceana topla,
Zemljinih oceana topla,
04:18
and it's really just that thin band
around the equator.
around the equator.
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radi se o uskom pojasu oko ekvatora.
04:21
So if I was going to find perfect waves,
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Znači, ako želim pronaći savršene valove,
04:24
it was probably going
to happen somewhere cold,
to happen somewhere cold,
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vjerojatno će to biti
negdje gdje je hladno,
negdje gdje je hladno,
04:26
where the seas are notoriously rough,
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gdje su mora zloglasno gruba
04:28
and that's exactly where I began to look.
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i točno ondje sam krenuo s potragom.
04:31
And it was my first trip to Iceland
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Na mom prvom izletu na Island sam
04:33
that I felt like I found
exactly what I was looking for.
exactly what I was looking for.
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se osjećao kao da sam pronašao
točno ono što sam tražio.
točno ono što sam tražio.
04:36
I was blown away
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
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Ostao sam zapanjen prirodnom
ljepotom pejzaža,
ljepotom pejzaža,
04:40
but most importantly, I couldn't believe
we were finding perfect waves
we were finding perfect waves
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ali što je važnije, nisam mogao vjerovati
da smo našli savršene valove
da smo našli savršene valove
u tako udaljenom i
neravnom dijelu svijeta.
neravnom dijelu svijeta.
04:44
in such a remote and rugged
part of the world.
part of the world.
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04:47
At one point, we got to the beach
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Jednom smo na plaži pronašli
04:49
only to find massive chunks of ice
had piled on the shoreline.
had piled on the shoreline.
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ogromne gromade leda
nagomilane na obali.
nagomilane na obali.
04:53
They created this barrier
between us and the surf,
between us and the surf,
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Bile su poput prepreka
između nas i surfanja,
između nas i surfanja,
04:55
and we had to weave
through this thing like a maze
through this thing like a maze
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pa smo ih zaobilazili
kao da smo u labirintu,
kao da smo u labirintu,
04:57
just to get out into the lineup.
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samo kako bismo stali u red.
04:59
and once we got there,
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Kada smo stigli tamo,
05:00
we were pushing aside these ice chunks
trying to get into waves.
trying to get into waves.
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gurali smo te gromade na stranu
kako bismo zajahali valove.
kako bismo zajahali valove.
05:03
It was an incredible experience,
one I'll never forget,
one I'll never forget,
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To je bilo nevjerojatno iskustvo,
koje nikada neću zaboraviti,
koje nikada neću zaboraviti,
05:07
because amidst those harsh conditions,
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jer sam usprkos okrutnim uvjetima,
05:10
I felt like I stumbled onto
one of the last quiet places,
one of the last quiet places,
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osjećao kao da sam pronašao
jedno od posljednjih tihih mjesta,
jedno od posljednjih tihih mjesta,
05:14
somewhere that I found a clarity
and a connection with the world
and a connection with the world
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gdje sam pronašao lucidnost
i vezu sa svijetom,
i vezu sa svijetom,
05:17
I knew I would never find
on a crowded beach.
on a crowded beach.
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koju nikada ne bih našao
na plaži prepunoj ljudi.
na plaži prepunoj ljudi.
05:22
I was hooked. I was hooked. (Laughter)
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I navukao sam se. Navukao sam se. (Smijeh)
05:25
Cold water was constantly on my mind,
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Hladna voda mi je stalno bila na umu
05:28
and from that point on,
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i od tog trenutka,
05:29
my career focused on these types of harsh
and unforgiving environments,
and unforgiving environments,
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fokus moje karijere je taj tip
okrutnog okoliša koji ne prašta.
okrutnog okoliša koji ne prašta.
05:32
and it took me to places like Russia,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
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To me odvelo u Rusiju, Norvešku,
Aljasku, Island, Čile
Aljasku, Island, Čile
05:36
the Faroe Islands,
and a lot of places in between.
and a lot of places in between.
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Farske otoke i puno mjesta između.
05:39
And one of my favorite things
about these places
about these places
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A najdraža stvar kod njih je
05:42
was simply the challenge and
the creativity it took just to get there:
the creativity it took just to get there:
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sam izazov i kreativnost koju je bilo
potrebno uložiti kako bih došao tamo,
potrebno uložiti kako bih došao tamo,
05:46
hours, days, weeks spent on Google Earth
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sati, dani, tjedni
provedeni na Google Earthu,
provedeni na Google Earthu,
05:48
trying to pinpoint any remote stretch
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
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pokušavajući odrediti neku
udaljenu plažu ili greben.
udaljenu plažu ili greben.
05:53
And once we got there,
the vehicles were just as creative:
the vehicles were just as creative:
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I kada bismo došli tamo,
prometala su bila jednako kreativna:
prometala su bila jednako kreativna:
05:56
snowmobiles, six-wheel
Soviet troop carriers,
Soviet troop carriers,
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sledovi, šesterokotačni
sovjetski nosači trupa
sovjetski nosači trupa
05:59
and a couple of super-sketchy
helicopter flights.
helicopter flights.
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i nekoliko super-škakljivih
helikopterskih letova.
helikopterskih letova.
06:03
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
06:05
Helicopters really scare me, by the way.
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Inače, helikopteri me straše.
06:08
There was this one particularly
bumpy boat ride
bumpy boat ride
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Za vrijeme jedne nezgodne
vožnje brodom, uz obalu
vožnje brodom, uz obalu
06:11
up the coast of Vancouver Island
to this kind of remote surf spot,
to this kind of remote surf spot,
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otoka Vancouver prema jednom
izdvojenom mjestu za surfanje,
izdvojenom mjestu za surfanje,
06:14
where we ended up watching
helplessly from the water
helplessly from the water
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gledali smo bespomoćno iz vode
06:16
as bears ravaged our camp site.
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dok su nam medvjedi rasturili kamp.
06:19
They walked off with our food
and bits of our tent,
and bits of our tent,
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Odnijeli su nam hranu i komade šatora,
06:22
clearly letting us know that we
were at the bottom of the food chain
were at the bottom of the food chain
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dajući nam do znanja da smo tu
mi na dnu prehrambenog lanaca
mi na dnu prehrambenog lanaca
06:25
and that this was their spot, not ours.
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i da je ovo njihovo mjesto, ne naše.
06:27
But to me, that trip
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Ali meni je taj izlet
06:29
was a testament to the wildness
I traded for those touristy beaches.
I traded for those touristy beaches.
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bio pokazatelj divljine koju sam
odabrao umjesto turističkih plaža.
odabrao umjesto turističkih plaža.
06:36
Now, it wasn't until I traveled
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
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E sad, sve do putovanja u Norvešku,
(smijeh)
(smijeh)
06:40
that I really learned
to appreciate the cold.
to appreciate the cold.
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nisam naučio cijeniti hladnoću.
06:44
So this is the place
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Ovo je mjesto
06:46
where some of the largest,
the most violent storms in the world
the most violent storms in the world
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gdje jedne od najvećih,
najzlokobnijih oluja na svijetu
najzlokobnijih oluja na svijetu
06:49
send huge waves smashing
into the coastline.
into the coastline.
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stvaraju ogromne valove
koji razaraju obaju.
koji razaraju obaju.
06:52
We were in this tiny, remote fjord,
just inside the Arctic Circle.
just inside the Arctic Circle.
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Bili smo u ovom sitnom, udaljenom fjordu,
unutar Arktičkog kruga.
unutar Arktičkog kruga.
06:56
It had a greater population
of sheep than people,
of sheep than people,
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Ondje je više je ovaca nego ljudi,
06:59
so help if we needed it
was nowhere to be found.
was nowhere to be found.
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i u slučaju da nam je bila potrebna
pomoć, teško bismo je našli.
pomoć, teško bismo je našli.
07:02
I was in the water
taking pictures of surfers,
taking pictures of surfers,
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Bio sam u vodi i slikao surfere,
07:05
and it started to snow.
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kada je počelo sniježiti.
07:08
And then the temperature began to drop.
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I temperatura je počela padati.
07:12
And I told myself, there's not a chance
you're getting out of the water.
you're getting out of the water.
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I rekao sam si da nema
šanse da izađem iz vode.
šanse da izađem iz vode.
07:15
You traveled all this way, and this is
exactly what you've been waiting for:
exactly what you've been waiting for:
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Putovao sam sve do ovdje i
ovo je točno ono što sam čekao:
ovo je točno ono što sam čekao:
07:19
freezing cold conditions
with perfect waves.
with perfect waves.
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ledeno hladni uvjeti sa
savršenim valovima.
savršenim valovima.
07:21
And although I couldn't even feel
my finger to push the trigger,
my finger to push the trigger,
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Iako nisam mogao niti osjetiti
prst kako pritišće okidač,
prst kako pritišće okidač,
07:24
I knew I wasn't getting out.
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znao sam da ne izlazim van.
07:26
So I just did whatever I could.
I shook it off, whatever.
I shook it off, whatever.
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Zato sam činio što sam mogao.
Stresao sam se, bilo što.
Stresao sam se, bilo što.
07:28
But that was the point that I felt
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U tom trenu sam osjetio
07:30
this wind gush through
the valley and hit me,
the valley and hit me,
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nalet vjetra u udolini
kako me udara,
kako me udara,
a ono što je počelo kao lagano padanje
snijega, brzo se pretvorilo u pravu mećavu,
snijega, brzo se pretvorilo u pravu mećavu,
07:32
and what started as this light snowfall
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
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07:38
and I started to lose
perception of where I was.
perception of where I was.
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i počeo sam gubiti pojam o tome gdje sam.
07:42
I didn't know if I was drifting
out to sea or towards shore,
out to sea or towards shore,
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Nisam znao plutam li
prema moru ili prema obali,
prema moru ili prema obali,
07:46
and all I could really make out
was the faint sound of seagulls
was the faint sound of seagulls
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a jedino sam mogao razaznati
nejasan zvuk galebova
nejasan zvuk galebova
07:50
and crashing waves.
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i valove kako se razbijaju o obalu.
07:52
Now, I knew this place had a reputation
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
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Znao sam da ovo mjesto ima reputaciju
potapanja brodova i prizemljivanja aviona,
potapanja brodova i prizemljivanja aviona,
07:57
and while I was out there floating,
I started to get a little bit nervous.
I started to get a little bit nervous.
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a dok sam tako plutao,
postajao sam pomalo nervozan.
postajao sam pomalo nervozan.
(Smijeh)
08:02
Actually, I was totally freaking out --
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Zapravo, potpuno sam ludio,
08:04
(Laughter) -- and I was
borderline hypothermic,
borderline hypothermic,
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(smijeh) i bio sam
na granici hipotermije(pothlađenosti),
na granici hipotermije(pothlađenosti),
08:08
and my friends eventually
had to help me out of the water.
had to help me out of the water.
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i prijatelji su me morali izvući iz vode.
08:11
And I don't know if it was
delirium setting in or what,
delirium setting in or what,
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Ne znam jesam li bio u bunilu ili što,
08:14
but they told me later
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ali kasnije su mi rekli
08:16
I had a smile on my face the entire time.
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da sam čitavo vrijeme
imao osmijeh na licu.
imao osmijeh na licu.
08:22
Now, it was this trip
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Upravo ovo putovanje
08:24
and probably that exact experience
where I really began to feel
where I really began to feel
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i vjerojatno sam se baš zbog ovog
iskustva sam počeo osjećati
iskustva sam počeo osjećati
08:28
like every photograph was precious,
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koliko je svaka fotografija dragocjena,
08:32
because all of a sudden in that moment,
it was something I was forced to earn.
it was something I was forced to earn.
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jer sam odjednom, u tome trenutku,
bio prisiljen zaraditi tu fotografiju.
bio prisiljen zaraditi tu fotografiju.
08:37
And I realized, all this shivering
had actually taught me something:
had actually taught me something:
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I shvatio sam, svo to drhtenje
me zapravo naučio nešto:
me zapravo naučio nešto:
08:42
In life, there are no shortcuts to joy.
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u životu ne postoje prečaci za sreću.
08:47
Anything that is worth pursuing
is going to require us to suffer
is going to require us to suffer
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Sve što vrijedi slijediti
zahtijevati će od vas
zahtijevati će od vas
08:50
just a little bit,
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da barem malo patite,
08:52
and that tiny bit of suffering
that I did for my photography,
that I did for my photography,
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a to malo patnje koju sam
učinio za svoju fotografiju,
učinio za svoju fotografiju,
08:56
it added a value to my work
that was so much more meaningful to me
that was so much more meaningful to me
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je dalo vrijednost mome radu koja
mi je imala puno više smisla
mi je imala puno više smisla
08:59
than just trying to fill
the pages of magazines.
the pages of magazines.
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od pukog punjenja stranica časopisa.
09:03
See, I gave a piece of myself
in these places,
in these places,
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Jer, vidite, dao sam dio
sebe na tim mjestima,
sebe na tim mjestima,
09:10
and what I walked away with
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a otišao sam
09:12
was a sense of fulfillment
I had always been searching for.
I had always been searching for.
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s osjećajem ispunjenja
koji sam uvijek tražio.
koji sam uvijek tražio.
09:18
So I look back at this photograph.
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Kada ponovno gledam ovu fotografiju,
09:21
It's easy to see frozen fingers
and cold wetsuits
and cold wetsuits
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lako je vidjeti smrznute prste
i hladno odijelo za ronjenje,
i hladno odijelo za ronjenje,
09:26
and even the struggle
that it took just to get there,
that it took just to get there,
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čak i borbu kako bismo došli do tamo,
09:29
but most of all,
what I see is just joy.
what I see is just joy.
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ali prvenstveno vidim
zadovoljstvo.
zadovoljstvo.
09:33
Thank you so much.
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Hvala vam puno.
09:35
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Chris Burkard - Surf photographerChris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head.
Why you should listen
For most people, surfing evokes sunny sand and warm, blue water in tropical locales. In his book Distant Shores, self-taught photographer Chris Burkard detours to the coastlines of Norway, Iceland and Alaska, shooting surfers as they ride waves on icy beaches that have rarely been photographed -- let alone surfed.
Traveling to often dangerous extremes to discover unknown landscapes, Burkard composes images that transcend the simple action shots of action photography, placing nature at the center of his compositions.
Chris Burkard | Speaker | TED.com