TED2015
Chris Burkard: The joy of surfing in ice-cold water
Kris Barkard (Chris Burkard): Radost surfovanja u ledenoj vodi
Filmed:
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"Svaki vredan cilj zahtevaće od nas da se pomučimo, bar malo", kaže fotograf surfa Kris Barkard, dok objašnjava svoju opsesiju najhladnijim, najuzburkanijim i najzabačenijim plažama na svetu. Uz neverovatne fotografije i priče o mestima koja je malo ljudi videlo, a još manje tamo surfovalo, uvodi nas u svoj "lični krstaški pohod protiv svakodnevice".
Chris Burkard - Surf photographer
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:13
So if I told you that
this was the face of pure joy,
this was the face of pure joy,
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Ako bih vam rekao
da je ovo radostan izraz lica,
da je ovo radostan izraz lica,
00:19
would you call me crazy?
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da li biste me nazvali ludim?
00:22
I wouldn't blame you,
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Ne bih vam zamerio,
00:23
because every time I look at this
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
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jer svaki put kad pogledam
ovaj arktički selfi, malo zadrhtim.
ovaj arktički selfi, malo zadrhtim.
00:28
I want to tell you
a little bit about this photograph.
a little bit about this photograph.
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Želim da vam kažem nešto
o ovoj fotografiji.
o ovoj fotografiji.
00:31
I was swimming around
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
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Plivao sam na Lofotskim ostrvima
u Norveškoj,
u Norveškoj,
00:35
just inside the Arctic Circle,
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na obodu arktičkog kruga
00:37
and the water was hovering
right at freezing.
right at freezing.
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i voda je bila oko tačke mržnjenja.
00:40
The air? A brisk -10 with windchill,
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A vazduh? Oštrih minus 10 stepeni,
00:44
and I could literally feel the blood
trying to leave my hands,
trying to leave my hands,
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i mogao sam bukvalno da osetim
kako mi krv otiče iz šaka,
kako mi krv otiče iz šaka,
00:47
feet and face, and rush
to protect my vital organs.
to protect my vital organs.
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stopala i lica,
i juri da zaštiti vitalne organe.
i juri da zaštiti vitalne organe.
00:52
It was the coldest I've ever been.
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Najveća hladnoća koju sam ikada osetio.
00:55
But even with swollen lips, sunken eyes,
and cheeks flushed red,
and cheeks flushed red,
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Ali čak i sa oteklim usnama,
upalim očima i crvenim obrazima
upalim očima i crvenim obrazima
00:59
I have found that this place right here
is somewhere I can find great joy.
is somewhere I can find great joy.
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shvatio sam da na ovom mestu
mogu da osetim veliko zadovoljstvo.
mogu da osetim veliko zadovoljstvo.
01:06
Now, when it comes to pain,
psychologist Brock Bastian
psychologist Brock Bastian
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Što se tiče bola, psiholog Brok Bastian
01:09
probably said it best when he wrote,
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ga je verovatno najbolje definisao
kad je napisao:
kad je napisao:
01:11
"Pain is a kind of shortcut
to mindfulness.
to mindfulness.
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"Bol je neka vrsta prečice
za stanje svesnosti.
za stanje svesnosti.
01:14
It makes us suddenly aware
of everything in the environment.
of everything in the environment.
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On čini da iznenada postanemo
svesni svega u okruženju.
svesni svega u okruženju.
01:18
It brutally draws us in
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Uvlači nas brutalno
01:20
to a virtual sensory awareness
of the world much like meditation."
of the world much like meditation."
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u virtuelnu čulnu svesnost o svetu,
vrlo slično meditaciji."
vrlo slično meditaciji."
01:25
If shivering is a form of meditation,
then I would consider myself a monk.
then I would consider myself a monk.
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Ako je drhtavica oblik meditacije,
onda bih ja bio monah.
onda bih ja bio monah.
01:28
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
01:29
Now, before we get into the why
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Pre nego što se zapitamo
01:32
would anyone ever want to surf
in freezing cold water?
in freezing cold water?
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zašto bi iko želeo da surfuje
u ledenoj vodi,
u ledenoj vodi,
01:35
I would love to give you
a little perspective
a little perspective
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voleo bih da vam malo dočaram
01:38
on what a day in my life can look like.
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kako jedan dan u mom životu
može izgledati.
može izgledati.
01:41
(Music)
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(Muzika)
02:28
(Video) Man: I mean, I know
we were hoping for good waves,
we were hoping for good waves,
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(Video) Čovek: Jeste da smo se nadali
dobrim talasima,
dobrim talasima,
02:31
but I don't think anybody thought
that was going to happen.
that was going to happen.
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ali mislim da niko nije pomislio
da će se to i desiti.
da će se to i desiti.
02:34
I can't stop shaking.
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Ne mogu da prestanem da se tresem.
02:36
I am so cold.
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Užasno mi je hladno.
02:40
(Music)
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(Muzika)
02:43
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
02:48
Chris Burkard: So,
surf photographer, right?
surf photographer, right?
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Kris Barkard: Znači, fotograf surfa?
02:51
I don't even know
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
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Iskreno, ne znam
ni da li je to pravo zanimanje.
ni da li je to pravo zanimanje.
02:54
My parents definitely didn't think so
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Moji roditelji
su definitivno mislili da nije
su definitivno mislili da nije
02:56
when I told them at 19 I was quitting
my job to pursue this dream career:
my job to pursue this dream career:
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kad sam im sa 19 godina rekao
da napuštam posao zbog tog sna:
da napuštam posao zbog tog sna:
03:01
blue skies, warm tropical beaches,
and a tan that lasts all year long.
and a tan that lasts all year long.
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plavo nebo, tropske plaže
i preplanulost preko cele godine.
i preplanulost preko cele godine.
03:06
I mean, to me, this was it.
Life could not get any better.
Life could not get any better.
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Za mene je to bilo to.
Nije postojao bolji život.
Nije postojao bolji život.
03:10
Sweating it out, shooting surfers
in these exotic tourist destinations.
in these exotic tourist destinations.
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Preznojavanje, slikanje surfera
na egzotičnim turističkim destinacijama.
na egzotičnim turističkim destinacijama.
03:14
But there was just this one problem.
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Ali postojao je jedan problem.
03:16
You see, the more time I spent traveling
to these exotic locations,
to these exotic locations,
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Što sam više vremena provodio
putujući na ove egzotične lokacije,
putujući na ove egzotične lokacije,
03:20
the less gratifying it seemed to be.
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to mi je izgledalo manje zadovoljavajuće.
03:23
I set out seeking adventure,
and what I was finding was only routine.
and what I was finding was only routine.
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Krenuo sam tražeći avanturu,
a nalazio sam samo rutinu.
a nalazio sam samo rutinu.
03:27
It was things like wi-fi, TV, fine dining,
and a constant cellular connection
and a constant cellular connection
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To su bile stvari kao vaj-faj, televizija,
večere i stalna mobilna veza
večere i stalna mobilna veza
03:32
that to me were all the trappings
of places heavily touristed
of places heavily touristed
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koje su za mene bile
karakteristike turističkih mesta
karakteristike turističkih mesta
03:35
in and out of the water,
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na moru i onih koja nisu na moru
03:37
and it didn't take long
for me to start feeling suffocated.
for me to start feeling suffocated.
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i vrlo brzo, to je počelo da me guši.
03:43
I began craving wild, open spaces,
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Počeo sam da žudim
za divljim i otvorenim prostorima
za divljim i otvorenim prostorima
03:47
and so I set out to find the places
others had written off
others had written off
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i tako sam krenuo da tražim
mesta koja su drugi otpisali
mesta koja su drugi otpisali
03:50
as too cold, too remote,
and too dangerous to surf,
and too dangerous to surf,
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kao suviše hladna, zabačena
i opasna za surfovanje
i opasna za surfovanje
03:54
and that challenge intrigued me.
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i taj izazov me je zaintrigirao.
03:57
I began this sort of personal crusade
against the mundane,
against the mundane,
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Krenuo sam u neku vrstu
ličnog krstaškog pohoda
protiv svakodnevice,
protiv svakodnevice,
04:01
because if there's
one thing I've realized,
one thing I've realized,
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jer ako sam nešto shvatio,
04:04
it's that any career,
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to je da za svako zanimanje,
04:05
even one as seemingly glamorous
as surf photography,
as surf photography,
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čak i za ono naizgled glamurozno
kao što je fotografija surfa,
kao što je fotografija surfa,
04:09
has the danger of becoming monotonous.
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postoji opasnost da postane monotono.
Tako da sam u svojoj potrazi
za razbijanjem monotonije nešto shvatio:
za razbijanjem monotonije nešto shvatio:
04:12
So in my search to break up
this monotony, I realized something:
this monotony, I realized something:
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04:15
There's only about a third
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
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samo je oko trećine
Zemljinih okeana toplo,
Zemljinih okeana toplo,
04:18
and it's really just that thin band
around the equator.
around the equator.
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i to samo onaj uzak pojas oko ekvatora.
04:21
So if I was going to find perfect waves,
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Znači da, ako hoću da nađem
savršene talase,
savršene talase,
04:24
it was probably going
to happen somewhere cold,
to happen somewhere cold,
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to će verovatno biti negde gde je hladno,
04:26
where the seas are notoriously rough,
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gde su mora ozloglašeno burna,
04:28
and that's exactly where I began to look.
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i upravo sam tamo počeo da tražim.
04:31
And it was my first trip to Iceland
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I na svom prvom putovanju na Island,
04:33
that I felt like I found
exactly what I was looking for.
exactly what I was looking for.
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osetio sam da sam našao
upravo ono što sam tražio.
upravo ono što sam tražio.
04:36
I was blown away
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
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Bio sam zadivljen
prirodnom lepotom pejzaža,
prirodnom lepotom pejzaža,
04:40
but most importantly, I couldn't believe
we were finding perfect waves
we were finding perfect waves
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ali najvažnije, nisam mogao da verujem
da smo našli savršene talase
da smo našli savršene talase
04:44
in such a remote and rugged
part of the world.
part of the world.
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u tako zabačenom i surovom delu sveta.
04:47
At one point, we got to the beach
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U jednom momentu, došli smo na plažu
04:49
only to find massive chunks of ice
had piled on the shoreline.
had piled on the shoreline.
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i zatekli ogromne komade leda na obali.
04:53
They created this barrier
between us and the surf,
between us and the surf,
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Preprečili su nam put ka surfovanju
04:55
and we had to weave
through this thing like a maze
through this thing like a maze
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i morali smo da ih zaobilazimo
kao u lavirintu
kao u lavirintu
04:57
just to get out into the lineup.
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da bismo prošli,
04:59
and once we got there,
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i kad smo stigli,
05:00
we were pushing aside these ice chunks
trying to get into waves.
trying to get into waves.
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sklanjali smo u ih stranu
pokušavajući da stignemo do talasa.
pokušavajući da stignemo do talasa.
05:03
It was an incredible experience,
one I'll never forget,
one I'll never forget,
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To je bilo neverovatno iskustvo
koje nikad neću zaboraviti,
koje nikad neću zaboraviti,
05:07
because amidst those harsh conditions,
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jer usred tih teških uslova,
05:10
I felt like I stumbled onto
one of the last quiet places,
one of the last quiet places,
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osećao sam kao da sam nabasao
na jedno od poslednjih mirnih mesta,
na jedno od poslednjih mirnih mesta,
05:14
somewhere that I found a clarity
and a connection with the world
and a connection with the world
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negde gde sam našao jasnoću
i povezanost sa svetom
i povezanost sa svetom
05:17
I knew I would never find
on a crowded beach.
on a crowded beach.
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koju, znao sam, nikada ne bih našao
na pretrpanoj plaži.
na pretrpanoj plaži.
05:22
I was hooked. I was hooked. (Laughter)
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Bio sam navučen.
(Smeh)
(Smeh)
05:25
Cold water was constantly on my mind,
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Stalno sam razmišljao o hladnoj vodi
05:28
and from that point on,
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i od tada
05:29
my career focused on these types of harsh
and unforgiving environments,
and unforgiving environments,
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moja karijera je fokusirana
na ta okrutna i nemilosrdna okruženja
na ta okrutna i nemilosrdna okruženja
05:32
and it took me to places like Russia,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
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i to me je odvelo na mesta kao što su:
Rusija, Norveška, Aljaska, Island, Čile,
Rusija, Norveška, Aljaska, Island, Čile,
05:36
the Faroe Islands,
and a lot of places in between.
and a lot of places in between.
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Farska ostrva i još mnoga druga mesta.
05:39
And one of my favorite things
about these places
about these places
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Jedna od mojih omiljenih stvari
u vezi sa ovim mestima
u vezi sa ovim mestima
je prosto izazov i kreativnost
05:42
was simply the challenge and
the creativity it took just to get there:
the creativity it took just to get there:
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koja je potrebna
da bi se samo stiglo tamo:
da bi se samo stiglo tamo:
05:46
hours, days, weeks spent on Google Earth
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sati, dani, nedelje
provedene na Google Earth-u
provedene na Google Earth-u
05:48
trying to pinpoint any remote stretch
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
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u lociranju neke zabačene plaže
ili grebena na koji možemo da stignemo.
ili grebena na koji možemo da stignemo.
05:53
And once we got there,
the vehicles were just as creative:
the vehicles were just as creative:
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I kad smo stigli tamo,
vozila su bila isto tako kreativna:
vozila su bila isto tako kreativna:
05:56
snowmobiles, six-wheel
Soviet troop carriers,
Soviet troop carriers,
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motorne sanke, transporter
sovjetske vojske sa šest točkova
sovjetske vojske sa šest točkova
05:59
and a couple of super-sketchy
helicopter flights.
helicopter flights.
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i nekoliko super improvizovanih letova
helikopterom.
helikopterom.
06:03
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
06:05
Helicopters really scare me, by the way.
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Helikopteri me jako plaše, inače.
06:08
There was this one particularly
bumpy boat ride
bumpy boat ride
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A ovo je bila
jedna posebno neprijatna plovidba brodom
jedna posebno neprijatna plovidba brodom
06:11
up the coast of Vancouver Island
to this kind of remote surf spot,
to this kind of remote surf spot,
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uz obalu ostrva Vankuver
do ovog zabačenog mesta za surf,
do ovog zabačenog mesta za surf,
06:14
where we ended up watching
helplessly from the water
helplessly from the water
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gde smo završili
bespomoćno gledajući iz vode
bespomoćno gledajući iz vode
06:16
as bears ravaged our camp site.
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kako nam medvedi uništavaju kamp.
06:19
They walked off with our food
and bits of our tent,
and bits of our tent,
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Odneli su nam hranu i delove šatora
06:22
clearly letting us know that we
were at the bottom of the food chain
were at the bottom of the food chain
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dajući nam do znanja
da se nalazimo na dnu lanca ishrane
da se nalazimo na dnu lanca ishrane
06:25
and that this was their spot, not ours.
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i da je to njihovo mesto, a ne naše.
06:27
But to me, that trip
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Ali meni je to putovanje
06:29
was a testament to the wildness
I traded for those touristy beaches.
I traded for those touristy beaches.
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pokazalo divljinu
kojom sam zamenio turističke plaže.
kojom sam zamenio turističke plaže.
06:36
Now, it wasn't until I traveled
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
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Ali tek kad sam otputovao
u Norvešku - (Smeh) -
u Norvešku - (Smeh) -
06:40
that I really learned
to appreciate the cold.
to appreciate the cold.
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naučio sam da stvarno cenim hladnoću.
06:44
So this is the place
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Ovo je mesto
06:46
where some of the largest,
the most violent storms in the world
the most violent storms in the world
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gde neke od najvećih
i najžešćih oluja na svetu
i najžešćih oluja na svetu
06:49
send huge waves smashing
into the coastline.
into the coastline.
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prave ogromne talase
koji se razbijaju o obalu.
koji se razbijaju o obalu.
06:52
We were in this tiny, remote fjord,
just inside the Arctic Circle.
just inside the Arctic Circle.
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Bili smo u ovom malom, zabačenom fjordu
na obodu arktičkog kruga.
na obodu arktičkog kruga.
06:56
It had a greater population
of sheep than people,
of sheep than people,
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Tamo je veća populacija ovaca nego ljudi
06:59
so help if we needed it
was nowhere to be found.
was nowhere to be found.
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i ako bi nam trebala pomoć,
ne bismo mogli da je nađemo.
ne bismo mogli da je nađemo.
07:02
I was in the water
taking pictures of surfers,
taking pictures of surfers,
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Bio sam u vodi fotografišući surfere
07:05
and it started to snow.
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i počeo je da pada sneg.
07:08
And then the temperature began to drop.
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A onda je temperatura počela da pada.
07:12
And I told myself, there's not a chance
you're getting out of the water.
you're getting out of the water.
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Rekao sam sebi:
"Nema šanse da izađeš iz vode.
"Nema šanse da izađeš iz vode.
07:15
You traveled all this way, and this is
exactly what you've been waiting for:
exactly what you've been waiting for:
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Putovao si ovoliko dugo
i ovo je ono što si čekao:
i ovo je ono što si čekao:
07:19
freezing cold conditions
with perfect waves.
with perfect waves.
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ledeni uslovi sa savršenim talasima."
07:21
And although I couldn't even feel
my finger to push the trigger,
my finger to push the trigger,
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Iako nisam osećao prst
da bih pritisnuo okidač,
da bih pritisnuo okidač,
znao sam da nema šanse da izađem.
07:24
I knew I wasn't getting out.
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07:26
So I just did whatever I could.
I shook it off, whatever.
I shook it off, whatever.
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Tako da sam radio šta god sam mogao,
protresao ruke.
protresao ruke.
07:28
But that was the point that I felt
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Ali u tom momentu sam osetio
07:30
this wind gush through
the valley and hit me,
the valley and hit me,
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nalet vetra kroz dolinu
07:32
and what started as this light snowfall
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
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i ono što je počelo kao susnežica
ubrzo je postalo prava mećava
ubrzo je postalo prava mećava
07:38
and I started to lose
perception of where I was.
perception of where I was.
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i počeo sam da gubim osećaj
za to gde se nalazim.
za to gde se nalazim.
07:42
I didn't know if I was drifting
out to sea or towards shore,
out to sea or towards shore,
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Nisam znao da li plutam
ka otvorenom moru ili ka obali
ka otvorenom moru ili ka obali
07:46
and all I could really make out
was the faint sound of seagulls
was the faint sound of seagulls
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i sve što sam mogao da razaberem
bio je slab zvuk galebova
bio je slab zvuk galebova
07:50
and crashing waves.
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i talasa koji se razbijaju.
07:52
Now, I knew this place had a reputation
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
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Znao sam da su na ovom mestu
tonuli brodovi i padali avioni,
tonuli brodovi i padali avioni,
07:57
and while I was out there floating,
I started to get a little bit nervous.
I started to get a little bit nervous.
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i dok sam plutao,
postajao sam malo nervozan.
postajao sam malo nervozan.
08:02
Actually, I was totally freaking out --
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U stvari, potpuno sam bio izbezumljen -
08:04
(Laughter) -- and I was
borderline hypothermic,
borderline hypothermic,
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(Smeh) - i bio sam na granici hipotermije
i moji prijatelji su na kraju morali
da mi pomognu da izađem iz vode.
da mi pomognu da izađem iz vode.
08:08
and my friends eventually
had to help me out of the water.
had to help me out of the water.
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08:11
And I don't know if it was
delirium setting in or what,
delirium setting in or what,
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Ne znam da li sam počeo
da ulazim u delirijum ili šta već,
da ulazim u delirijum ili šta već,
08:14
but they told me later
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ali kasnije su mi rekli
08:16
I had a smile on my face the entire time.
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da sam imao osmeh na licu sve vreme.
08:22
Now, it was this trip
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Upravo sam na ovom putovanju,
08:24
and probably that exact experience
where I really began to feel
where I really began to feel
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i verovatno baš ovom prilikom,
počeo da osećam
počeo da osećam
08:28
like every photograph was precious,
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da je svaka fotografija dragocena,
08:32
because all of a sudden in that moment,
it was something I was forced to earn.
it was something I was forced to earn.
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jer je iznenada u tom momentu,
to bilo nešto
što sam bio primoran da dobijem.
što sam bio primoran da dobijem.
08:37
And I realized, all this shivering
had actually taught me something:
had actually taught me something:
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I shvatio sam da me je sve to drhtanje
nečemu naučilo:
nečemu naučilo:
08:42
In life, there are no shortcuts to joy.
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u životu nema prečica za zadovoljstvo.
08:47
Anything that is worth pursuing
is going to require us to suffer
is going to require us to suffer
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Svaki vredan cilj
zahtevaće od nas da se pomučimo
zahtevaće od nas da se pomučimo
08:50
just a little bit,
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bar malo,
08:52
and that tiny bit of suffering
that I did for my photography,
that I did for my photography,
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i to malo muke koju sam imao
zbog svoje fotografije
zbog svoje fotografije
08:56
it added a value to my work
that was so much more meaningful to me
that was so much more meaningful to me
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dodalo je vrednost mom radu,
što mi je mnogo više značilo
što mi je mnogo više značilo
08:59
than just trying to fill
the pages of magazines.
the pages of magazines.
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od pukog ispunjavanja stranica časopisa.
09:03
See, I gave a piece of myself
in these places,
in these places,
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Dao sam deo sebe na ovim mestima
09:10
and what I walked away with
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i ono sa čim sam otišao
09:12
was a sense of fulfillment
I had always been searching for.
I had always been searching for.
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je osećaj ispunjenja
koji sam oduvek tražio.
koji sam oduvek tražio.
09:18
So I look back at this photograph.
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Vraćam se na ovu fotografiju.
09:21
It's easy to see frozen fingers
and cold wetsuits
and cold wetsuits
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Lako je videti smrznute prste
i hladne zaštitne kostime
i hladne zaštitne kostime
09:26
and even the struggle
that it took just to get there,
that it took just to get there,
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i čak i borbu da se stigne tamo,
09:29
but most of all,
what I see is just joy.
what I see is just joy.
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ali pre svega, ono što ja vidim
je samo zadovoljstvo.
je samo zadovoljstvo.
09:33
Thank you so much.
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Hvala vam mnogo.
09:35
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Chris Burkard - Surf photographerChris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head.
Why you should listen
For most people, surfing evokes sunny sand and warm, blue water in tropical locales. In his book Distant Shores, self-taught photographer Chris Burkard detours to the coastlines of Norway, Iceland and Alaska, shooting surfers as they ride waves on icy beaches that have rarely been photographed -- let alone surfed.
Traveling to often dangerous extremes to discover unknown landscapes, Burkard composes images that transcend the simple action shots of action photography, placing nature at the center of his compositions.
Chris Burkard | Speaker | TED.com