TED2015
Chris Burkard: The joy of surfing in ice-cold water
Chris Burkard: 在冰海中衝浪的喜悅
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「追求任何值得的事物都需要吃一點苦。」衝浪攝影師 Chris Burkard 解釋他為何對地球上最冷,、最洶湧、 最與世隔絕的海岸如此著迷。 透過驚奇的照片及故事，他帶領我們到世人罕見地區衝浪，參與他「超越平凡的個人聖戰」。
Chris Burkard - Surf photographer
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:13
So if I told you that
this was the face of pure joy,
this was the face of pure joy,
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如果我告訴你們這是一張充滿喜悅的臉
00:19
would you call me crazy?
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你們會覺得我瘋了嗎？
00:22
I wouldn't blame you,
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我不會怪你們的
00:23
because every time I look at this
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
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因為每當看到這張在北極的自拍，
我都會顫抖一下
我都會顫抖一下
00:28
I want to tell you
a little bit about this photograph.
a little bit about this photograph.
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我想告訴你們一些有關這張照片的故事
00:31
I was swimming around
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
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我當時正在挪威的羅弗敦群島游泳
00:35
just inside the Arctic Circle,
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剛好在北極圈裡面
00:37
and the water was hovering
right at freezing.
right at freezing.
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水快要結冰了
00:40
The air? A brisk -10 with windchill,
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空氣？頂著凜冽寒風，體感溫度零下10度
00:44
and I could literally feel the blood
trying to leave my hands,
trying to leave my hands,
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我簡直能感受到血液離開我的手、腳和臉
00:47
feet and face, and rush
to protect my vital organs.
to protect my vital organs.
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流去保護我身體的重要器官
00:52
It was the coldest I've ever been.
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那是我經歷過最冷的時刻
00:55
But even with swollen lips, sunken eyes,
and cheeks flushed red,
and cheeks flushed red,
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但是即使雙唇腫脹，眼眶凹陷，雙頰通紅
00:59
I have found that this place right here
is somewhere I can find great joy.
is somewhere I can find great joy.
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我發現這正是能給我帶來極大喜悅的地方
01:06
Now, when it comes to pain,
psychologist Brock Bastian
psychologist Brock Bastian
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此刻，要是說有什麼痛苦
01:09
probably said it best when he wrote,
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心理學家 Brock Bastian 說的最好:
01:11
"Pain is a kind of shortcut
to mindfulness.
to mindfulness.
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“痛苦是到達心智全開之捷徑
01:14
It makes us suddenly aware
of everything in the environment.
of everything in the environment.
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它讓我們突然之間感受到周遭的一切，
01:18
It brutally draws us in
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它猛然把我們導引到
01:20
to a virtual sensory awareness
of the world much like meditation."
of the world much like meditation."
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一個無形的感官世界，就像冥想一樣。”
01:25
If shivering is a form of meditation,
then I would consider myself a monk.
then I would consider myself a monk.
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如果顫抖是冥想的一種形式，
那我就是一個修道士
那我就是一個修道士
01:28
(Laughter)
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（笑）
01:29
Now, before we get into the why
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在我們談論
01:32
would anyone ever want to surf
in freezing cold water?
in freezing cold water?
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為甚麼會有人想要在寒冷刺骨的水中衝浪之前
01:35
I would love to give you
a little perspective
a little perspective
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我想讓你們知道一些
01:38
on what a day in my life can look like.
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我每天生活的樣子
01:41
(Music)
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（音樂）
02:28
(Video) Man: I mean, I know
we were hoping for good waves,
we were hoping for good waves,
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（影片）男：我想我們都期待有好海浪
02:31
but I don't think anybody thought
that was going to happen.
that was going to happen.
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但是我不認為有人相信那會出現
02:34
I can't stop shaking.
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我不停地顫抖
02:36
I am so cold.
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我實在太冷了
02:40
(Music)
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（音樂）
02:43
(Applause)
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（鼓掌）
02:48
Chris Burkard: So,
surf photographer, right?
surf photographer, right?
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Chris Burkard： 講到衝浪攝影師，對嗎？
02:51
I don't even know
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
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坦白地講，我甚至不知道
這是不是一個正式的職業名稱
這是不是一個正式的職業名稱
02:54
My parents definitely didn't think so
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至少我父母不這麼認為
02:56
when I told them at 19 I was quitting
my job to pursue this dream career:
my job to pursue this dream career:
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19歲時我曾告訴他們
我要辭職去追尋這個夢想中的職業：
我要辭職去追尋這個夢想中的職業：
03:01
blue skies, warm tropical beaches,
and a tan that lasts all year long.
and a tan that lasts all year long.
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藍天，溫暖的熱帶沙灘，
以及一年四季黝黑色的皮膚
以及一年四季黝黑色的皮膚
03:06
I mean, to me, this was it.
Life could not get any better.
Life could not get any better.
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對我來說，生活沒有比這更美好的了
03:10
Sweating it out, shooting surfers
in these exotic tourist destinations.
in these exotic tourist destinations.
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揮灑汗水，在異國旅遊景點拍下衝浪者英姿
03:14
But there was just this one problem.
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但是這裏有個問題
03:16
You see, the more time I spent traveling
to these exotic locations,
to these exotic locations,
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當我花越多的時間去這些異國的旅遊景點
03:20
the less gratifying it seemed to be.
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我的滿足感卻越少
03:23
I set out seeking adventure,
and what I was finding was only routine.
and what I was finding was only routine.
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我出去追求的本是探險，
但所見的卻都是平凡事物
但所見的卻都是平凡事物
03:27
It was things like wi-fi, TV, fine dining,
and a constant cellular connection
and a constant cellular connection
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舉凡wi-fi、電視、美食、
或者隨時行動上網
或者隨時行動上網
03:32
that to me were all the trappings
of places heavily touristed
of places heavily touristed
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對我來說，
這些都是過度旅遊開發地區的點綴物
這些都是過度旅遊開發地區的點綴物
03:35
in and out of the water,
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不管是在水裡還是陸地上
03:37
and it didn't take long
for me to start feeling suffocated.
for me to start feeling suffocated.
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不久，我就覺得窒息般難受了
03:43
I began craving wild, open spaces,
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我開始渴望野外，更開闊的空間
03:47
and so I set out to find the places
others had written off
others had written off
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我開始尋找那些對衝浪來說
03:50
as too cold, too remote,
and too dangerous to surf,
and too dangerous to surf,
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太冷，太遠以及太危險的地方
03:54
and that challenge intrigued me.
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這樣的挑戰令我著迷
03:57
I began this sort of personal crusade
against the mundane,
against the mundane,
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我開始這場超越平凡的個人聖戰
04:01
because if there's
one thing I've realized,
one thing I've realized,
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因為我發現
04:04
it's that any career,
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任何一種職業
04:05
even one as seemingly glamorous
as surf photography,
as surf photography,
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即使是衝浪攝影師
這種看起來很令人嚮往的職業
這種看起來很令人嚮往的職業
04:09
has the danger of becoming monotonous.
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都有變得單調乏味的可能
04:12
So in my search to break up
this monotony, I realized something:
this monotony, I realized something:
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所以在我追尋刺激的過程中
04:15
There's only about a third
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
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我發現地球上大約只有三分之一的海水是溫暖的
04:18
and it's really just that thin band
around the equator.
around the equator.
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就是在赤道附近那條窄帶
04:21
So if I was going to find perfect waves,
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所以如果我要去找完美的海浪
04:24
it was probably going
to happen somewhere cold,
to happen somewhere cold,
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很有可能就要去一些較冷的
04:26
where the seas are notoriously rough,
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眾所週知比較危險的海域
04:28
and that's exactly where I began to look.
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這正是我開始尋找的地方
04:31
And it was my first trip to Iceland
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當我第一次去冰島的時候
04:33
that I felt like I found
exactly what I was looking for.
exactly what I was looking for.
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我發現這正是我所尋找的地方
04:36
I was blown away
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
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我陶醉於那兒美麗的自然風景
04:40
but most importantly, I couldn't believe
we were finding perfect waves
we were finding perfect waves
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但最重要的是，我無法相信
04:44
in such a remote and rugged
part of the world.
part of the world.
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在這種遙遠而崎嶇的地方會有完美的海浪
04:47
At one point, we got to the beach
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有一次，我們到了沙灘上
04:49
only to find massive chunks of ice
had piled on the shoreline.
had piled on the shoreline.
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只能看到堆在海岸線上大塊大塊的冰
04:53
They created this barrier
between us and the surf,
between us and the surf,
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這些冰成了我們去衝浪的阻礙
04:55
and we had to weave
through this thing like a maze
through this thing like a maze
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我們必須在冰塊迷宮中迂迴前行
04:57
just to get out into the lineup.
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以脫身進入等浪區
04:59
and once we got there,
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等我們到達海浪邊
05:00
we were pushing aside these ice chunks
trying to get into waves.
trying to get into waves.
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我們要把這些冰塊推到一邊，
以進入到海浪裡
以進入到海浪裡
05:03
It was an incredible experience,
one I'll never forget,
one I'll never forget,
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那是個很不可思議的經驗，
我永遠無法忘記
我永遠無法忘記
05:07
because amidst those harsh conditions,
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因為在那樣嚴苛的環境中
05:10
I felt like I stumbled onto
one of the last quiet places,
one of the last quiet places,
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我感覺自己突然發現了最後一塊寂土
05:14
somewhere that I found a clarity
and a connection with the world
and a connection with the world
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我感受到一種清明、和世界連結的感覺
05:17
I knew I would never find
on a crowded beach.
on a crowded beach.
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我知道我永遠不會在擁擠的海灘上找到這些
05:22
I was hooked. I was hooked. (Laughter)
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我上癮了. 我上癮了(大笑)
05:25
Cold water was constantly on my mind,
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由於冷水常縈繞我心中
05:28
and from that point on,
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從那開始
05:29
my career focused on these types of harsh
and unforgiving environments,
and unforgiving environments,
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我的生涯就專注在這種
嚴峻且毫不留情的環境上
嚴峻且毫不留情的環境上
05:32
and it took me to places like Russia,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
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因此我去過一些地方，
像俄國、 挪威、 阿拉斯加、冰島、 智利
像俄國、 挪威、 阿拉斯加、冰島、 智利
05:36
the Faroe Islands,
and a lot of places in between.
and a lot of places in between.
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還有法羅群島、還有那之間很多地方
05:39
And one of my favorite things
about these places
about these places
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關於這些地方我最喜歡之處在於
05:42
was simply the challenge and
the creativity it took just to get there:
the creativity it took just to get there:
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如何挑戰及發揮創意，以到達那裏
05:46
hours, days, weeks spent on Google Earth
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在Google地球上要花上幾小時,
幾天, 幾星期
幾天, 幾星期
05:48
trying to pinpoint any remote stretch
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
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才能找出某個
我們真正到達得了的長灘或礁石
我們真正到達得了的長灘或礁石
05:53
And once we got there,
the vehicles were just as creative:
the vehicles were just as creative:
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而為了到達那裏，
交通工具也一樣要動點創意
交通工具也一樣要動點創意
05:56
snowmobiles, six-wheel
Soviet troop carriers,
Soviet troop carriers,
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雪上摩托車、六輪的蘇聯運兵車
05:59
and a couple of super-sketchy
helicopter flights.
helicopter flights.
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還有幾次超級危險的直升機飛行
06:03
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
06:05
Helicopters really scare me, by the way.
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順便說，直升機真的嚇到我了
06:08
There was this one particularly
bumpy boat ride
bumpy boat ride
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這一次坐船特別顛簸
06:11
up the coast of Vancouver Island
to this kind of remote surf spot,
to this kind of remote surf spot,
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我們沿著溫哥華島海岸北上，
到達這處遙遠的衝浪地點
到達這處遙遠的衝浪地點
06:14
where we ended up watching
helplessly from the water
helplessly from the water
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在那邊我們最後無助的從水上
06:16
as bears ravaged our camp site.
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看著熊蹂躪我們的營地
06:19
They walked off with our food
and bits of our tent,
and bits of our tent,
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他們帶走了我們的食物
而且咬了我們營帳幾口
而且咬了我們營帳幾口
06:22
clearly letting us know that we
were at the bottom of the food chain
were at the bottom of the food chain
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很顯然是想告訴我們，
位在食物鏈底層的是我們
位在食物鏈底層的是我們
06:25
and that this was their spot, not ours.
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這是牠們的地盤，不是我們的
06:27
But to me, that trip
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但對我而言, 那趟旅行
06:29
was a testament to the wildness
I traded for those touristy beaches.
I traded for those touristy beaches.
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證明我愛的是野外，
而非那些擠滿旅客的海灘
而非那些擠滿旅客的海灘
06:36
Now, it wasn't until I traveled
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
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再來，要等到我去挪威
(笑聲) (車上的字: 衝浪)
(笑聲) (車上的字: 衝浪)
06:40
that I really learned
to appreciate the cold.
to appreciate the cold.
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我才學會怎麼欣賞冷天
06:44
So this is the place
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就是這裡
06:46
where some of the largest,
the most violent storms in the world
the most violent storms in the world
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一些世界最大、最猛烈的風暴
06:49
send huge waves smashing
into the coastline.
into the coastline.
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送出巨浪打擊海岸線
06:52
We were in this tiny, remote fjord,
just inside the Arctic Circle.
just inside the Arctic Circle.
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我們當時在這個遙遠的小海灣，
位置剛好在北極圈內
位置剛好在北極圈內
06:56
It had a greater population
of sheep than people,
of sheep than people,
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這裡羊比人多
06:59
so help if we needed it
was nowhere to be found.
was nowhere to be found.
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所以我們即使求救也沒用
07:02
I was in the water
taking pictures of surfers,
taking pictures of surfers,
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我當時在水中拍攝一些衝浪者的照片
07:05
and it started to snow.
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然後開始下雪了
07:08
And then the temperature began to drop.
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氣溫開始下降
07:12
And I told myself, there's not a chance
you're getting out of the water.
you're getting out of the water.
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我告訴自己，你不能就這樣離開
07:15
You traveled all this way, and this is
exactly what you've been waiting for:
exactly what you've been waiting for:
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你旅行了這麼遠，
而這些就是你所期盼的
而這些就是你所期盼的
07:19
freezing cold conditions
with perfect waves.
with perfect waves.
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刺骨的冷天和完美的海浪
07:21
And although I couldn't even feel
my finger to push the trigger,
my finger to push the trigger,
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雖然我已經感覺不到按快門的手指
07:24
I knew I wasn't getting out.
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我知道我不能離開
07:26
So I just did whatever I could.
I shook it off, whatever.
I shook it off, whatever.
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所以我儘可能作點什麼，
不顧一切擺脫寒冷
不顧一切擺脫寒冷
07:28
But that was the point that I felt
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就在此時我感到
07:30
this wind gush through
the valley and hit me,
the valley and hit me,
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一陣風吹過峽谷，打在我身上
07:32
and what started as this light snowfall
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
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然後原來一場小雪突然變成一陣暴風雪
07:38
and I started to lose
perception of where I was.
perception of where I was.
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我開始失去方位感
07:42
I didn't know if I was drifting
out to sea or towards shore,
out to sea or towards shore,
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我不曉得我正飄向海或飄向岸
07:46
and all I could really make out
was the faint sound of seagulls
was the faint sound of seagulls
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我唯一能分辨的是海鷗微弱的叫聲
07:50
and crashing waves.
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還有拍打的波浪
07:52
Now, I knew this place had a reputation
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
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我知道此處以沈船和墜機聞名
07:57
and while I was out there floating,
I started to get a little bit nervous.
I started to get a little bit nervous.
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隨著我在那兒漂浮，我開始有點緊張
08:02
Actually, I was totally freaking out --
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事實上, 我快徹底抓狂了
08:04
(Laughter) -- and I was
borderline hypothermic,
borderline hypothermic,
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(笑聲) 就在我接近低溫症邊綠
08:08
and my friends eventually
had to help me out of the water.
had to help me out of the water.
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朋友們終於幫我離開水中
08:11
And I don't know if it was
delirium setting in or what,
delirium setting in or what,
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我不知道是出於精神錯亂還是怎樣
08:14
but they told me later
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他們之後告訴我
08:16
I had a smile on my face the entire time.
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我那段時間臉上滿是笑容
08:22
Now, it was this trip
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現在，就是這趟旅程
08:24
and probably that exact experience
where I really began to feel
where I really began to feel
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也許就是這個經驗， 我真的開始覺得
08:28
like every photograph was precious,
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每張相片都是珍貴的
08:32
because all of a sudden in that moment,
it was something I was forced to earn.
it was something I was forced to earn.
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因為在拍照那一瞬間，
我都要很勉強才能拍得成
我都要很勉強才能拍得成
08:37
And I realized, all this shivering
had actually taught me something:
had actually taught me something:
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我也體會到，
冷得顫抖實際上教會我一樣東西:
冷得顫抖實際上教會我一樣東西:
08:42
In life, there are no shortcuts to joy.
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人生沒有獲得喜悅的捷徑
08:47
Anything that is worth pursuing
is going to require us to suffer
is going to require us to suffer
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追求任何值得的事物都需要吃苦
08:50
just a little bit,
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吃一點苦
08:52
and that tiny bit of suffering
that I did for my photography,
that I did for my photography,
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我為了攝影而吃的那一點苦
08:56
it added a value to my work
that was so much more meaningful to me
that was so much more meaningful to me
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它增加了我工作的價值，對我來說
08:59
than just trying to fill
the pages of magazines.
the pages of magazines.
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我不再只是從事一份填滿雜誌版面的工作
09:03
See, I gave a piece of myself
in these places,
in these places,
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了解嗎， 我貢獻出我的一部份給這些地方
09:10
and what I walked away with
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而我離開所獲得的
09:12
was a sense of fulfillment
I had always been searching for.
I had always been searching for.
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是我一直夢寐以求的滿足感
09:18
So I look back at this photograph.
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所以我回顧這張照片
09:21
It's easy to see frozen fingers
and cold wetsuits
and cold wetsuits
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上面很容易看到凍僵的手指和冰冷的潛水衣
09:26
and even the struggle
that it took just to get there,
that it took just to get there,
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以及為了到達那個地方所花費的努力
09:29
but most of all,
what I see is just joy.
what I see is just joy.
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但最重要的是, 我看到了喜悅
09:33
Thank you so much.
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非常謝謝你們
09:35
(Applause)
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(鼓掌)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Chris Burkard - Surf photographerChris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head.
Why you should listen
For most people, surfing evokes sunny sand and warm, blue water in tropical locales. In his book Distant Shores, self-taught photographer Chris Burkard detours to the coastlines of Norway, Iceland and Alaska, shooting surfers as they ride waves on icy beaches that have rarely been photographed -- let alone surfed.
Traveling to often dangerous extremes to discover unknown landscapes, Burkard composes images that transcend the simple action shots of action photography, placing nature at the center of his compositions.
Chris Burkard | Speaker | TED.com