TED2018
Alex Honnold: How I climbed a 3,000-foot vertical cliff -- without ropes
Aleks Honold (Alex Honnold): Kako sam se popeo uz vertikalnu liticu od 1 000 metara - bez konopaca
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Zamislite da ste potpuno sami u centru vertikalne litice od 1 000 metara - bez konopca da vas zaustavi ako padnete. Za profesionalnog penjača Aleksa Honolda, ova vrtoglava scena obeležila je vrhunac decenijskog sna. U govoru od kojeg se diže kosa na glavi, on priča kako je popeo El Kapitan u Josemitiju, završavajući jedan od najopasnijih slobodnih soloa u penjanju svih vremena.
Alex Honnold - Rock climber
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers. Full bio
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:13
Hello. I'd like to show you guys
30 seconds of the best day of my life.
30 seconds of the best day of my life.
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Zdravo. Društvo, želim da vam pokažem
30 sekundi najboljeg dana u mom životu.
30 sekundi najboljeg dana u mom životu.
00:50
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
00:56
So that was El Capitan
in California's Yosemite National Park,
in California's Yosemite National Park,
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To je bio El Kapitan u kalifornijskom
nacionalnom parku Josemiti,
nacionalnom parku Josemiti,
01:00
and in case you couldn't tell,
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i, ako niste primetili,
01:02
I was climbing by myself without a rope,
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peo sam se sam bez konopca,
01:04
a style of a climbing
known as free soloing.
known as free soloing.
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što je stil penjanja
poznat kao slobodan solo.
poznat kao slobodan solo.
01:06
That was the culmination
of a nearly decade-long dream,
of a nearly decade-long dream,
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Bila je to kulminacija
gotovo decenijskog sna,
gotovo decenijskog sna,
01:09
and in the video I'm over
2,500 feet off the ground.
2,500 feet off the ground.
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i na snimku sam na visini
od preko 760 metara.
od preko 760 metara.
01:12
Seems scary? Yeah, it is,
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Deluje jezivo?
Da, jeste,
01:14
which is why I spent so many years
dreaming about soloing El Cap
dreaming about soloing El Cap
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i zato sam toliko godina proveo
sanjajući da soliram El Kap
sanjajući da soliram El Kap
umesto da to i uradim.
01:17
and not actually doing it.
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01:18
But on the day that that video was taken,
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Ali na dan kada je snimljen ovaj video,
01:21
it didn't feel scary at all.
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nije uopšte delovalo strašno.
01:22
It felt as comfortable and natural
as a walk in the park,
as a walk in the park,
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Delovalo je udobno i prirodno
poput šetnje parkom,
poput šetnje parkom,
01:25
which is what most folks
were doing in Yosemite that day.
were doing in Yosemite that day.
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što je većina ljudi i radila
u Josemitiju tog dana.
u Josemitiju tog dana.
01:28
Today I'd like to talk about
how I was able to feel so comfortable
how I was able to feel so comfortable
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Danas bih želeo da pričam o tome
kako sam mogao da se osećam tako
kako sam mogao da se osećam tako
i kako sam prevazišao strah.
01:31
and how I overcame my fear.
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Počeću sa veoma sažetom verzijom
priče kako sam postao penjač,
priče kako sam postao penjač,
01:32
I'll start with a very brief version
of how I became a climber,
of how I became a climber,
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a zatim ću ispričati priču
o moja dva najznačajnija soloa.
o moja dva najznačajnija soloa.
01:35
and then tell the story
of my two most significant free solos.
of my two most significant free solos.
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Oba su bila uspešna i zato sam ovde.
01:38
They were both successful,
which is why I'm here.
which is why I'm here.
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01:41
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
01:43
But the first felt largely unsatisfying,
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Ali prvi me mahom
nije ostavio zadovoljnim,
nije ostavio zadovoljnim,
01:47
whereas the second, El Cap, was by far
the most fulfilling day of my life.
the most fulfilling day of my life.
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dok je drugi, El Kap, dan kada sam
se ubedljivo osetio najviše ispunjenim.
se ubedljivo osetio najviše ispunjenim.
01:51
Through these two climbs,
you'll see my process for managing fear.
you'll see my process for managing fear.
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Kroz ova dva uspona,
videćete moj proces kontrolisanja straha.
videćete moj proces kontrolisanja straha.
01:55
So I started climbing in a gym
when I was around 10 years old,
when I was around 10 years old,
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Počeo sam da se penjem u sali
kada sam imao oko 10 godina,
kada sam imao oko 10 godina,
što znači da se moj život
vrti oko penjanja već više od 20 godina.
vrti oko penjanja već više od 20 godina.
01:57
which means that my life
has been centered on climbing
has been centered on climbing
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02:00
for more than 20 years.
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Nakon gotovo decenije
penjanja uglavnom u sali,
penjanja uglavnom u sali,
02:01
After nearly a decade
of climbing mostly indoors,
of climbing mostly indoors,
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prebacio sam se u prirodu
i postepeno počeo da soliram.
i postepeno počeo da soliram.
02:04
I made the transition to the outdoors
and gradually started free soloing.
and gradually started free soloing.
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Vremenom sam izgradio osećaj komfora
02:07
I built up my comfort over time
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i postepeno se suočavao
sa većim i izazovnijim zidovima.
sa većim i izazovnijim zidovima.
02:09
and slowly took on
bigger and more challenging walls.
bigger and more challenging walls.
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02:11
And there have been
many free soloists before me,
many free soloists before me,
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Mnogo njih je soliralo pre mene,
pa sam bio dosta inspirisan.
02:14
so I had plenty of
inspiration to draw from.
inspiration to draw from.
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Ali do 2008. ponovio sam većinu
njihovih starih soloa u Josemitiju
njihovih starih soloa u Josemitiju
02:16
But by 2008, I'd repeated
most of their previous solos in Yosemite
most of their previous solos in Yosemite
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i počeo sam da zamišljam
otvaranje novog terena.
otvaranje novog terena.
02:19
and was starting to imagine
breaking into new terrain.
breaking into new terrain.
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Očigledan prvi izbor bio je Haf Doum,
02:21
The obvious first choice was Half Dome,
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kultni zid visok 600 metara
koji dominira istočnim delom doline.
koji dominira istočnim delom doline.
02:23
an iconic 2,000-foot wall
the lords over the east end of the valley.
the lords over the east end of the valley.
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02:27
The problem, though also the allure,
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Problem, ali i ono što privlači,
02:29
was that it was too big.
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je da je bio previsok.
02:30
I didn't really know how to prepare
for a potential free solo.
for a potential free solo.
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Nisam baš znao kako da se pripremim
za potencijalni slobodan solo.
za potencijalni slobodan solo.
02:33
So I decided to skip the preparations
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Rešio sam da preskočim pripreme
02:35
and just go up there
and have an adventure.
and have an adventure.
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i jednostavno odem tamo u avanturu.
02:38
I figured I would rise to the occasion,
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Mislio sam da sam dorastao izazovu,
što, naravno,
nije bila najbolja strategija.
nije bila najbolja strategija.
02:40
which, unsurprisingly,
was not the best strategy.
was not the best strategy.
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02:43
I did at least climb the route
roped up with a friend two days before
roped up with a friend two days before
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Barem sam popeo smer
sa opremom i prijateljem dva dana ranije
sa opremom i prijateljem dva dana ranije
da budem siguran da bar grubo
znam kuda treba da idem
znam kuda treba da idem
02:47
just to make sure
that I knew roughly where to go
that I knew roughly where to go
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02:49
and that I could physically do it.
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i da fizički to mogu da izvedem.
02:51
But when I came back
by myself two days later,
by myself two days later,
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Ali kada sam se vratio sam
dva dana kasnije,
dva dana kasnije,
02:53
I decided that I didn't
want to go that way.
want to go that way.
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rešio sam da ne želim da idem tuda.
02:55
I knew that there was a 300-foot variation
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Znao sam da postoji varijacija
od devedeset metara
od devedeset metara
02:57
that circled around
one of the hardest parts of the climb.
one of the hardest parts of the climb.
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koja zaobilazi jedan
od najtežih delova smera.
od najtežih delova smera.
Iznenada sam odlučio da preskočim
teži deo i krenem varijacijom.
teži deo i krenem varijacijom.
03:00
I suddenly decided to skip the hard part
and take the variation,
and take the variation,
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iako je nikada nisam popeo,
03:03
even though I'd never climbed it before,
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03:05
but I immediately began to doubt myself.
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ali momentalno sam posumnjao u sebe.
03:07
Imagine being by yourself
in the dead center of a 2,000-foot face,
in the dead center of a 2,000-foot face,
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Zamislite da ste sami
u samom centru zida od 600 metara,
u samom centru zida od 600 metara,
03:10
wondering if you're lost.
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pitajući se da li ste se izgubili.
03:12
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
03:13
Thankfully, it was
pretty much the right way
pretty much the right way
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Na sreću, bio je to pravi put
03:16
and I circled back to the route.
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i vratio sam se do smera.
03:18
I was slightly rattled,
I was pretty rattled,
I was pretty rattled,
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Bio sam malo potresen,
bio sam prilično potresen,
bio sam prilično potresen,
03:20
but I tried not to let it
bother me too much
bother me too much
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ali pokušao sam da ne dozvolim
da me to previše dotiče
da me to previše dotiče
03:23
because I knew that all the hardest
climbing was up at the top.
climbing was up at the top.
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jer sam znao da je najteže
penjanje gore na vrhu.
penjanje gore na vrhu.
Morao sam ostati pribran.
03:26
I needed to stay composed.
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03:28
It was a beautiful September morning,
and as I climbed higher,
and as I climbed higher,
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Bilo je divno septembarsko jutro
i, kako sam se peo sve više,
i, kako sam se peo sve više,
mogao sam da čujem glasove turista
koji ćaskaju i smeju se na vrhu.
koji ćaskaju i smeju se na vrhu.
03:30
I could hear the sounds of tourists
chatting and laughing on the summit.
chatting and laughing on the summit.
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Svi su prošetali gore
običnom stazom iza stene,
običnom stazom iza stene,
03:34
They'd all hiked up
the normal trail on the back,
the normal trail on the back,
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koju sam planirao da iskoristim za spust.
03:36
which I was planning on using
for my descent.
for my descent.
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Ali između mene i vrha
ležao je prazan blok granita.
ležao je prazan blok granita.
03:38
But between me and the summit
lay a blank slab of granite.
lay a blank slab of granite.
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Nije bilo pukotina ni ivica
za koje bih se držao,
za koje bih se držao,
03:41
There were no cracks
or edges to hold on to,
or edges to hold on to,
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samo naznake teksture
uz gotovo potpuno vertikalan zid.
uz gotovo potpuno vertikalan zid.
03:43
just small ripples of texture
up a slightly less than vertical wall.
up a slightly less than vertical wall.
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03:47
I had to trust my life to the friction
between my climbing shoes
between my climbing shoes
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Prepustio sam život trenju
između mojih penjačica i glatkog granita.
između mojih penjačica i glatkog granita.
03:50
and the smooth granite.
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Pažljivo sam balansirao ka vrhu,
03:51
I carefully balanced my way upward,
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prebacujući težinu
između malih udubljenja.
između malih udubljenja.
03:53
shifting my weight back and forth
between the small smears.
between the small smears.
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03:55
But then I reached a foothold
that I didn't quite trust.
that I didn't quite trust.
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Ali onda sam stigao do gaza
kojem nisam potpuno verovao.
kojem nisam potpuno verovao.
03:58
Two days ago, I'd have just
stepped right up on it,
stepped right up on it,
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Pre dva dana, stao bih pravo na njega,
ali to bi bilo sa konopcem.
ali to bi bilo sa konopcem.
04:01
but that would have been with a rope on.
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Sada je delovao premalo,
suviše klizavo.
suviše klizavo.
04:02
Now it felt too small and too slippery.
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Sumnjao sam da će mi se stopalo
zadržati ako zgazim.
zadržati ako zgazim.
04:04
I doubted that my foot
would stay on if I weighted it.
would stay on if I weighted it.
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Razmatrao sam korak dalje u stranu
koji je delovao još gore.
koji je delovao još gore.
04:07
I considered a foot further to the side,
which seemed worse.
which seemed worse.
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Zamenio sam stopala i pokušao korak dalje.
04:10
I switched my feet and tried
a foot further out.
a foot further out.
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Delovalo je još gore.
04:12
It seemed even worse.
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Počeo sam da paničim.
04:13
I started to panic.
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Mogao sam da čujem ljude na vrhu
kako se smeju tik iznad.
kako se smeju tik iznad.
04:15
I could hear people laughing
on the summit just above me.
on the summit just above me.
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Želeo sam da budem
bilo gde osim na toj steni.
bilo gde osim na toj steni.
04:17
I wanted to be anywhere but on that slab.
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04:19
My mind was racing in every direction.
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Misli su mi letele na sto strana.
04:21
I knew what I had to do,
but I was too afraid to do it.
but I was too afraid to do it.
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Znao sam šta treba da uradim,
ali sam bio suviše uplašen.
ali sam bio suviše uplašen.
04:24
I just had to stand up on my right foot.
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Trebalo je samo da ustanem na desnu nogu.
04:26
And so after what felt like an eternity,
I accepted what I had to do
I accepted what I had to do
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I nakon onoga što je delovalo
kao večnost, prihvatio sam to
kao večnost, prihvatio sam to
04:30
and I stood up on the right foot,
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i ustao na desno stopalo,
04:31
and it didn't slip, and so I didn't die,
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i nisam se okliznuo, pa nisam umro,
04:33
and that move marked the end
of the hardest climbing.
of the hardest climbing.
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i taj potez je označio kraj
najtežeg uspona.
najtežeg uspona.
04:36
And so I charged from there
towards the summit.
towards the summit.
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Poleteo sam odatle ka vrhu.
04:38
And so normally when you summit Half Dome,
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Obično kada se popnete na Haf Doum
04:41
you have a rope and a bunch
of climbing gear on you,
of climbing gear on you,
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imate konopac i gomilu
penjačke opreme sa sobom,
penjačke opreme sa sobom,
i turisti su zatečeni
i opkole vas da fotografišu.
i opkole vas da fotografišu.
04:43
and tourists gasp and they
flock around you for photos.
flock around you for photos.
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Ovaj put sam iskočio preko ivice
bez majce, zadihan, uzbuđen.
bez majce, zadihan, uzbuđen.
04:46
This time I popped over the edge
shirtless, panting, jacked.
shirtless, panting, jacked.
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04:49
I was amped, but nobody batted an eye.
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Bio sam pod utiskom, a niko ni da trepne.
04:51
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
Izgledao sam kao izgubljeni pešak
koji stoji preblizu ivici.
koji stoji preblizu ivici.
04:57
I looked like a lost hiker
that was too close to the edge.
that was too close to the edge.
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04:59
I was surrounded by people
talking on cell phones and having picnics.
talking on cell phones and having picnics.
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Bio sam okružen ljudima
koji pričaju na telefonu i na pikniku su.
koji pričaju na telefonu i na pikniku su.
05:04
I felt like I was in a mall.
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Kao da sam u tržnom centru.
05:06
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
05:08
I took off my tight climbing shoes
and started hiking back down,
and started hiking back down,
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Izuo sam uske penjačice
i počeo da se spuštam,
i počeo da se spuštam,
05:11
and that's when people stopped me.
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i tada su me ljudi zaustavili.
05:13
"You're hiking barefoot?
That's so hard-core."
That's so hard-core."
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„Šetaš bos? To je tako ludo.“
05:15
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
05:22
I didn't bother to explain,
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Nisam se trudio da objasnim,
05:24
but that night in my climbing journal,
I duly noted my free solo of Half Dome,
I duly noted my free solo of Half Dome,
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ali tu noć sam u svoj dnevnik penjanja
uredno ubeležio moj solo na Haf Doumu,
uredno ubeležio moj solo na Haf Doumu,
05:28
but I included a frowny face
and a comment, "Do better?"
and a comment, "Do better?"
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ali sam dodao i tužića
i komentar: „Budi bolji?”
i komentar: „Budi bolji?”
05:33
I'd succeeded in the solo
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Uspeo sam u solou
05:34
and it was celebrated
as a big first in climbing.
as a big first in climbing.
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i to je proslavljeno
kao važan prvenac u penjanju.
kao važan prvenac u penjanju.
05:36
Some friends later made a film about it.
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Neki prijatelji su posle napravili film.
05:38
But I was unsatisfied.
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Ali bio sam nezadovoljan.
05:40
I was disappointed in my performance,
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Bio sam razočaran svojim učinkom,
05:42
because I knew that I had
gotten away with something.
gotten away with something.
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jer sam znao da sam se nekako izvukao.
Nisam hteo da budem penjač koji ima sreće.
Hteo sam da budem sjajan.
Hteo sam da budem sjajan.
05:44
I didn't want to be a lucky climber.
I wanted to be a great climber.
I wanted to be a great climber.
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05:47
I actually took the next year or so
off from free soloing,
off from free soloing,
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Zapravo sam narednu godinu
pauzirao sa soliranjem,
pauzirao sa soliranjem,
jer sam znao da ne treba
da se navikavam na sreću.
da se navikavam na sreću.
05:50
because I knew that I shouldn't
make a habit of relying on luck.
make a habit of relying on luck.
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Ali iako nisam mnogo solirao,
05:53
But even though
I wasn't soloing very much,
I wasn't soloing very much,
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već sam počeo da razmišljam o El Kapu.
05:55
I'd already started to think about El Cap.
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Uvek mi je bio u podsvesti
kao očigledan dragulj soliranja.
kao očigledan dragulj soliranja.
05:57
It was always in the back of my mind
as the obvious crown jewel of solos.
as the obvious crown jewel of solos.
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To je najlepši zid na svetu.
06:01
It's the most striking wall in the world.
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06:03
Each year, for the next seven years,
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Svake godine, narednih sedam godina,
06:05
I'd think, "This is the year
that I'm going to solo El Cap."
that I'm going to solo El Cap."
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razmišljao bih: „Ove godine
ću da soliram El Kap.”
ću da soliram El Kap.”
06:08
And then I would drive into Yosemite,
look up at the wall, and think,
look up at the wall, and think,
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A onda bih se odvezao u Josemiti,
pogledao u zid i pomislio:
pogledao u zid i pomislio:
06:11
"No frickin' way."
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„Nema šanse.”
06:13
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
06:15
It's too big and too scary.
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Prevelik je i previše strašan.
06:17
But eventually I came to accept that
I wanted to test myself against El Cap.
I wanted to test myself against El Cap.
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Ali vremenom sam prihvatio
da želim da se testiram na El Kapu.
da želim da se testiram na El Kapu.
06:21
It represented true mastery,
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Predstavljao je vrhunac majstorstva,
06:23
but I needed it to feel different.
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ali hteo sam da bude drugačiji.
06:25
I didn't want to get away with anything
or barely squeak by.
or barely squeak by.
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Nisam hteo da se izvučem
ili prođem za dlaku.
ili prođem za dlaku.
06:28
This time I wanted to do it right.
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Uradiću to propisno ovaj put.
06:31
The thing that makes El Cap
so intimidating
so intimidating
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Stvar zbog koje je El Kap
toliko zastrašujuć
toliko zastrašujuć
06:33
is the sheer scale of the wall.
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je sama veličina zida.
06:35
Most climbers take three to five days
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Većini penjača treba tri do pet dana
06:36
to ascend the 3,000 feet
of vertical granite.
of vertical granite.
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da se popnu uz 600 metara
vertikalnog granita.
vertikalnog granita.
06:39
The idea of setting out
up a wall of that size
up a wall of that size
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Pomisao da se upustite uz zid te veličine
06:41
with nothing but shoes and
a chalk bag seemed impossible.
a chalk bag seemed impossible.
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samo uz penjačice i kesicu magnezijuma
delovala je nemoguće.
delovala je nemoguće.
06:45
3,000 feet of climbing represents
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Uspon od 600 metara predstavlja
06:46
thousands of distinct
hand and foot movements,
hand and foot movements,
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hiljade pojedinačnih poteza
rukama i nogama,
rukama i nogama,
06:49
which is a lot to remember.
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što je mnogo za zapamtiti.
06:50
Many of the moves I knew
through sheer repetition.
through sheer repetition.
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Mnoge poteze sam zapamtio
čistim ponavljanjem.
čistim ponavljanjem.
06:52
I'd climbed El Cap maybe 50 times
over the previous decade with a rope.
over the previous decade with a rope.
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El Kap sam sa opremom popeo možda
50 puta u protekloj deceniji.
50 puta u protekloj deceniji.
06:56
But this photo shows my preferred
method of rehearsing the moves.
method of rehearsing the moves.
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Ali ova slika pokazuje
kako preferiram da vežbam poteze.
kako preferiram da vežbam poteze.
06:59
I'm on the summit,
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Na vrhu sam,
07:00
about to repel down the face
with over a thousand feet of rope
with over a thousand feet of rope
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spreman da se odbijanjem spustim
sa preko 300 metara konopca
sa preko 300 metara konopca
i provedem dan vežbajući.
07:03
to spend the day practicing.
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07:05
Once I found sequences
that felt secure and repeatable,
that felt secure and repeatable,
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Kada sam pronašao sekvence
koje su sigurne i ponovljive
koje su sigurne i ponovljive
07:07
I had to memorize them.
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morao sam da ih zapamtim.
07:09
I had to make sure that they were
so deeply ingrained within me
so deeply ingrained within me
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Morao sam da se pobrinem
da su tako duboko urezane u meni
da su tako duboko urezane u meni
da nema mesta za grešku.
07:12
that there was no possibility of error.
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Nisam hteo da se penjem i pitam
da li idem pravim putem
da li idem pravim putem
07:13
I didn't want to be wondering
if I was going the right way
if I was going the right way
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ili koristim najbolji hvat.
07:16
or using the best holds.
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Sve je moralo biti automatski.
07:18
I needed everything to feel automatic.
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07:20
Climbing with a rope
is a largely physical effort.
is a largely physical effort.
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Penjanje konopcem je mahom
fizički poduhvat.
fizički poduhvat.
07:22
You just have to be strong enough
to hold on and make the movements upward.
to hold on and make the movements upward.
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Samo treba da ste dovoljno jaki
da se držite i pomerate nagore.
da se držite i pomerate nagore.
Ali slobodan solo
se više odigrava u glavi.
se više odigrava u glavi.
07:26
But free soloing
plays out more in the mind.
plays out more in the mind.
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Fizički napor je uglavnom isti.
07:28
The physical effort is largely the same.
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Vaše telo se i dalje penje na isti zid.
07:30
Your body is still climbing the same wall.
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07:32
But staying calm
and performing at your best
and performing at your best
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Ali zadržati mir i imati najbolju izvedbu
07:34
when you know that
any mistake could mean death
any mistake could mean death
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kada znate da svaka greška
može značiti smrt
može značiti smrt
07:36
requires a certain kind of mindset.
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zahteva određen mentalni sklop.
07:38
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
07:41
That's not supposed to be funny,
but if it is, it is.
but if it is, it is.
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To ne treba da bude smešno,
ali ako jeste, jeste.
ali ako jeste, jeste.
07:43
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
07:46
I worked to cultivate that mindset
through visualization,
through visualization,
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Radio sam na tome da odgajam
taj sklop kroz vizualizaciju,
taj sklop kroz vizualizaciju,
07:49
which basically just means imagining
the entire experience of soloing the wall.
the entire experience of soloing the wall.
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što u suštini znači da zamišljam
celo iskustvo soliranja zida.
celo iskustvo soliranja zida.
07:53
Partially, that was to help me
remember all the holds,
remember all the holds,
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Delimično, to treba da mi pomogne
da zapamtim hvatove,
da zapamtim hvatove,
07:55
but mostly visualization
was about feeling the texture
was about feeling the texture
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ali vizualizacija je osećanje teksture
svakog hvata u ruci
svakog hvata u ruci
07:58
of each hold in my hand
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i zamišljanje noge kako se proteže
i namešta baš kako treba.
i namešta baš kako treba.
07:59
and imagining the sensation of my leg
reaching out and placing my foot just so.
reaching out and placing my foot just so.
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08:03
I'd imagine it all like a choreographed
dance thousands of feet up.
dance thousands of feet up.
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Sve sam to zamišljao kao osmišljen ples
stotinama metara visoko.
stotinama metara visoko.
08:06
The most difficult part of the whole route
was called the Boulder Problem.
was called the Boulder Problem.
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Najteži deo čitavog smera
se zvao problem bouldera.
se zvao problem bouldera.
Bio je na oko 600 metara visine
08:10
It was about 2,000 feet off the ground
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i sastojao se od fizički najtežih
poteza na celom smeru:
poteza na celom smeru:
08:12
and consisted of the hardest
physical moves on the whole route:
physical moves on the whole route:
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veliki razmaci među lošim hvatovima
sa vrlo malim, klizavim gazovima.
sa vrlo malim, klizavim gazovima.
08:15
long pulls between poor handholds
with very small, slippery feet.
with very small, slippery feet.
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08:18
This is what I mean by a poor handhold:
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Kad kažem loš hvat mislim ovo:
08:20
an edge smaller than the width
of a pencil but facing downward
of a pencil but facing downward
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ivica manja od širine olovke
ali okrenuta na dole
ali okrenuta na dole
08:23
that I had to press up into with my thumb.
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koju sam morao da pritisnem palcem.
08:26
But that wasn't even the hardest part.
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Ali to i nije bio najteži deo.
08:28
The crux culminated in a karate kick
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Prekretnica je kulminirala karate šutom
08:29
with my left foot over to the inside
of an adjacent corner,
of an adjacent corner,
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levim stopalom ka unutrašnjosti
susednog ugla,
susednog ugla,
08:32
a maneuver that required a high degree
of precision and flexibility,
of precision and flexibility,
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manevar koji iziskuje visok stepen
preciznosti i fleksibilnosti,
preciznosti i fleksibilnosti,
08:35
enough so that I'd been doing
a nightly stretching routine
a nightly stretching routine
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toliko da sam se istezao svako veče
08:38
for a full year ahead of time
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čitavu godinu unapred
08:40
to make sure that I could comfortably
make the reach with my leg.
make the reach with my leg.
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ne bih li se pobrinuo da mogu
bez problema da istegnem nogu.
bez problema da istegnem nogu.
08:43
As I practiced the moves,
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Dok sam vežbao pokrete,
08:44
my visualization turned
to the emotional component
to the emotional component
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vizualizacija je prerasla
u emotivnu komponentu
u emotivnu komponentu
08:46
of a potential solo.
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potencijalnog soloa.
08:48
Basically, what if I got up there
and it was too scary?
and it was too scary?
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U suštini, šta ako odem tamo
i bude suviše strašno?
i bude suviše strašno?
08:51
What if I was too tired?
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Šta ako budem preumoran?
08:52
What if I couldn't quite make the kick?
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Šta ako ne budem mogao da izvedem šut?
08:54
I had to consider every possibility
while I was safely on the ground,
while I was safely on the ground,
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Morao sam da razmotrim svaku opciju
dok sam bezbedno na zemlji,
dok sam bezbedno na zemlji,
08:57
so that when the time came and I was
actually making the moves without a rope,
actually making the moves without a rope,
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tako da kada dođe vreme i kada
se zapravo budem kretao bez konopca,
se zapravo budem kretao bez konopca,
ne bude mesta da se ušunja sumnja.
09:01
there was no room for doubt to creep in.
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Sumnja prethodi strahu,
09:03
Doubt is the precursor to fear,
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i znao sam da ne mogu iskusiti
svoj savršen trenutak ako se plašim.
svoj savršen trenutak ako se plašim.
09:04
and I knew that I couldn't experience
my perfect moment if I was afraid.
my perfect moment if I was afraid.
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Morao sam vizualizovati i vežbati
dovoljno da otklonim svaku sumnju.
dovoljno da otklonim svaku sumnju.
09:08
I had to visualize and rehearse
enough to remove all doubt.
enough to remove all doubt.
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09:11
But beyond that, I also
visualized how it would feel
visualized how it would feel
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Ali van toga, takođe sam
zamišljao kako bi izgledalo
zamišljao kako bi izgledalo
09:13
if it never seemed doable.
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da mi se ne učini mogućim.
09:15
What if, after so much work,
I was afraid to try?
I was afraid to try?
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Šta ako, posle svog tog posla,
budem suviše uplašen da probam?
budem suviše uplašen da probam?
09:19
What if I was wasting my time
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Šta ako sam traćio vreme
09:20
and I would never feel comfortable
in such an exposed position?
in such an exposed position?
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i nikada se ne osetim dovoljno slobodnim
u tako ranjivom položaju?
u tako ranjivom položaju?
09:24
There were no easy answers,
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Nije bilo lakih odgovora,
09:25
but El Cap meant enough to me
that I would put in the work and find out.
that I would put in the work and find out.
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ali El Kap mi je bio dovoljno važan
da ipak uložim trud i saznam.
da ipak uložim trud i saznam.
09:29
Some of my preparations were more mundane.
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Neke od priprema su bile manje zanimljive.
09:31
This is a photo of my friend Conrad Anker
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Ovo je slika mog prijatelja Konrada Ankera
09:33
climbing up the bottom of El Cap
with an empty backpack.
with an empty backpack.
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kako se penje uz donji deo El Kapa
sa praznim rancem.
sa praznim rancem.
09:36
We spent the day climbing together
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Proveli smo dan penjući se zajedno
do određenog procepa na sredini zida
do određenog procepa na sredini zida
09:38
to a specific crack
in the middle of the wall
in the middle of the wall
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koji je bio prepun labavog kamenja,
09:40
that was choked with loose rocks
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što je taj deo činilo
teškim i potencijalno opasnim
teškim i potencijalno opasnim
09:41
that made that section
difficult and potentially dangerous,
difficult and potentially dangerous,
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jer svaki pogrešan korak
može odvaliti kamen ka zemlji
može odvaliti kamen ka zemlji
09:44
because any missed step
might knock a rock to the ground
might knock a rock to the ground
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i ubiti penjača ili prolaznika.
09:47
and kill a passing climber or hiker.
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Zato smo pažljivo uklonili kamenje,
natovarili ih zajedno
natovarili ih zajedno
09:49
So we carefully removed the rocks,
loaded them into the pack
loaded them into the pack
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i konopcem ih spustili dole.
09:52
and rappelled back down.
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09:53
Take a second to imagine
how ridiculous it feels
how ridiculous it feels
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Zamislite na sekund koliko suludo deluje
09:55
to climb 1,500 feet up a wall
just to fill a backpack full of rocks.
just to fill a backpack full of rocks.
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popeti se 500 metara uz zid
samo da napunite ranac kamenjem.
samo da napunite ranac kamenjem.
09:58
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
10:00
It's never that easy to carry
a pack full of rocks around.
a pack full of rocks around.
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Nikada nije lako nosati
naokolo ranac pun kamenja.
naokolo ranac pun kamenja.
Još je teže niz liticu.
10:03
It's even harder on the side of a cliff.
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Možda je delovalo smešno,
ali moralo se uraditi.
ali moralo se uraditi.
10:05
It may have felt silly,
but it still had to get done.
but it still had to get done.
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Sve je moralo biti savršeno
10:07
I needed everything to feel perfect
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za slučaj da ću ikada da penjem
taj smer bez konopca.
taj smer bez konopca.
10:09
if I was ever going to climb
the route without a rope.
the route without a rope.
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10:12
After two seasons of working specifically
toward a potential free solo of El Cap,
toward a potential free solo of El Cap,
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Nakon dve sezone pripremanja
isklučivo za mogući slobodan solo El Kapa,
isklučivo za mogući slobodan solo El Kapa,
napokon sam završio sve pripreme.
10:15
I finally finished all my preparations.
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Znao sam svaki hvat i gaz čitavog smera,
10:17
I knew every handhold
and foothold on the whole route,
and foothold on the whole route,
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i znao sam tačno šta da radim.
10:20
and I knew exactly what to do.
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Suštinski, bio sam spreman.
10:21
Basically, I was ready.
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10:23
It was time to solo El Cap.
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Došlo je vreme da soliram El Kap.
10:25
On June 3, 2017,
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Trećeg juna 2017. godine
10:27
I woke up early, ate my usual
breakfast of muesli and fruit
breakfast of muesli and fruit
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poranio sam, pojeo uobičajen
doručak, musli i voće,
doručak, musli i voće,
10:31
and made it to the base
of the wall before sunrise.
of the wall before sunrise.
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i stigao do podnožja zida pre zore.
10:33
I felt confident as I looked up the wall.
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Bio sam samouveren
kad sam pogledao nagore.
kad sam pogledao nagore.
10:35
I felt even better as I started climbing.
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Osećao sam se još bolje
kad sam počeo da penjem.
kad sam počeo da penjem.
10:38
About 500 feet up, I reached a slab
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Na oko 150 metara, stigao sam do ploče
10:40
very similar to the one that had
given me so much trouble on Half Dome,
given me so much trouble on Half Dome,
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veoma slične onoj koja mi je zadala
tolike muke na Haf Doumu,
tolike muke na Haf Doumu,
10:43
but this time was different.
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ali ovog puta je bilo drugačije.
10:45
I'd scouted every option, including
hundreds of feet of wall to either side.
hundreds of feet of wall to either side.
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Proučio sam svaku opciju, uključujući
stotine metara zida sa svake strane,
stotine metara zida sa svake strane,
10:49
I knew exactly what to do
and how to do it.
and how to do it.
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znao sam tačno šta i kako da uradim.
10:51
I had no doubts.
I just climbed right through.
I just climbed right through.
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Nisam imao sumnje. Samo sam se popeo.
10:54
Even the difficult and strenuous
sections passed by with ease.
sections passed by with ease.
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Čak su i teški i naporni delovi
prošli lagodno.
prošli lagodno.
10:57
I was perfectly executing my routine.
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Savršeno sam izvodio proceduru.
11:00
I rested for a moment
below the Boulder Problem
below the Boulder Problem
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Na trenutak sam se odmorio
ispod problema bouldera
ispod problema bouldera
11:02
and then climbed it just as I had
practiced so many times with the rope on.
practiced so many times with the rope on.
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i onda ga popeo baš kako sam
ga toliko puta uvežbavao sa konopcem.
ga toliko puta uvežbavao sa konopcem.
11:06
My foot shot across to the wall
on the left without hesitation,
on the left without hesitation,
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Noga mi je skočila preko zida
na levo bez oklevanja,
na levo bez oklevanja,
11:09
and I knew that I had done it.
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i znao sam da sam uspeo.
11:12
Climbing Half Dome had been a big goal
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Popeti Haf Doum je bio veliki cilj
i uspeo sam,
11:14
and I did it,
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ali nisam dobio ono što sam zapravo želeo.
11:16
but I didn't get what I really wanted.
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11:17
I didn't achieve mastery.
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Nisam dostigao majstorstvo.
11:19
I was hesitant and afraid, and it wasn't
the experience that I wanted.
the experience that I wanted.
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Oklevao sam i plašio se, a to nije bilo
iskustvo koje sam želeo.
iskustvo koje sam želeo.
11:22
But El Cap was different.
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Ali El Kap je bio drugačiji.
11:24
With 600 feet to go, I felt like the
mountain was offering me a victory lap.
mountain was offering me a victory lap.
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Sa još 200 metara, delovalo je
da mi planina nudi pobednički krug.
da mi planina nudi pobednički krug.
11:28
I climbed with a smooth precision
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Popeo sam se s glatkom preciznošću
11:30
and enjoyed the sounds of the birds
swooping around the cliff.
swooping around the cliff.
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i uživao u zvukovima ptica
koje obleću liticu.
koje obleću liticu.
Sve je delovalo kao slavlje.
11:32
It all felt like a celebration.
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A onda sam stigao do vrha
11:34
And then I reached the summit
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nakon tri sata i 56 minuta
veličanstvenog penjanja.
veličanstvenog penjanja.
11:35
after three hours and 56 minutes
of glorious climbing.
of glorious climbing.
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Bio je to uspon koji sam želeo,
i bilo je to majstorstvo.
i bilo je to majstorstvo.
11:38
It was the climb that I wanted,
and it felt like mastery.
and it felt like mastery.
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Hvala vam.
11:41
Thank you.
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(Aplauz)
11:42
(Applause)
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Alex Honnold - Rock climberAlex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers.
Why you should listen
A gifted but hard-working athlete, Honnold is known as much for his humble, self-effacing attitude as he is for the dizzyingly tall cliffs he has climbed without a rope to protect him if he falls. Honnold has been profiled by 60 Minutes and the New York Times, featured on the cover of National Geographic, appeared in international television commercials and starred in numerous adventure films, including the Emmy-nominated Alone on the Wall. He is the subject of the documentary feature Free Solo, which was released by National Geographic Documentary Films.
Honnold is the founder of the Honnold Foundation, a nonprofit that promotes solar energy access worldwide. To this day, he maintains his simple "dirtbag-climber" existence, living out of his van, donating a significant portion of his income to the Honnold Foundation and traveling the world in search of the next great vertical adventure.
Alex Honnold | Speaker | TED.com