TED2018
Alex Honnold: How I climbed a 3,000-foot vertical cliff -- without ropes
亚历克斯·霍诺德: 我是如何不用绳索，攀爬近一千米的垂直峭壁的
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Readability: 3.9
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想像一下你独自处在九百多米高的垂直峭壁正中间。如果你掉下去，没有绳索会拉住你。对职业攀岩者艾力克斯·霍诺德而言，这个让人晕眩的场景，是他十年梦想的高潮。在这场让人寒毛直竖的演说中，他诉说如何爬上酋长岩顶峰的故事，完成了史上最危险的单人徒手攀岩壮举之一。
Alex Honnold - Rock climber
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers. Full bio
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:13
Hello. I'd like to show you guys
30 seconds of the best day of my life.
30 seconds of the best day of my life.
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大家好，我想花三十秒钟
展示我人生中最美好的一天。
展示我人生中最美好的一天。
00:50
(Applause)
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（掌声）
00:56
So that was El Capitan
in California's Yosemite National Park,
in California's Yosemite National Park,
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这是位于加尼福亚
优胜美地国家公园的酋长岩。
优胜美地国家公园的酋长岩。
你也许没注意到，
01:00
and in case you couldn't tell,
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我是独自一人、
没有绳索的攀爬。
没有绳索的攀爬。
01:02
I was climbing by myself without a rope,
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这是一种攀岩的的方式，
叫做“单人徒手攀岩”。
叫做“单人徒手攀岩”。
01:04
a style of a climbing
known as free soloing.
known as free soloing.
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那是我近十年的梦想，
01:06
That was the culmination
of a nearly decade-long dream,
of a nearly decade-long dream,
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在刚才的短片中，
我在离地面762米高的地方。
我在离地面762米高的地方。
01:09
and in the video I'm over
2,500 feet off the ground.
2,500 feet off the ground.
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看起来很吓人？确实如此。
01:12
Seems scary? Yeah, it is,
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这也是为什么我这么多年来
都梦想着独自攀登酋长岩，
都梦想着独自攀登酋长岩，
01:14
which is why I spent so many years
dreaming about soloing El Cap
dreaming about soloing El Cap
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但迟迟没有做出行动。
01:17
and not actually doing it.
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但是在视频里的那一天，
01:18
But on the day that that video was taken,
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我没有感觉到丝毫的害怕。
01:21
it didn't feel scary at all.
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感觉就像在公园漫步
一样惬意和自然，
一样惬意和自然，
01:22
It felt as comfortable and natural
as a walk in the park,
as a walk in the park,
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就跟大多数那天在
优胜美地的游客一样。
优胜美地的游客一样。
01:25
which is what most folks
were doing in Yosemite that day.
were doing in Yosemite that day.
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现在我想谈谈我是怎样
能够感受到如此放松，
能够感受到如此放松，
01:28
Today I'd like to talk about
how I was able to feel so comfortable
how I was able to feel so comfortable
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以及克服我的恐惧的。
01:31
and how I overcame my fear.
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我会非常简单地介绍一下
我是如何成为一名攀岩者，
我是如何成为一名攀岩者，
01:32
I'll start with a very brief version
of how I became a climber,
of how I became a climber,
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然后讲讲我最重要的
两次自由独攀的经历。
两次自由独攀的经历。
01:35
and then tell the story
of my two most significant free solos.
of my two most significant free solos.
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两次都很成功，
这是为什么我还能站在这里.
这是为什么我还能站在这里.
01:38
They were both successful,
which is why I'm here.
which is why I'm here.
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（笑声）
01:41
(Laughter)
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但是第一次并没有让我感到满足，
01:43
But the first felt largely unsatisfying,
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第二次在酋长岩，成为了目前为止
我生命中最有成就感的一天。
我生命中最有成就感的一天。
01:47
whereas the second, El Cap, was by far
the most fulfilling day of my life.
the most fulfilling day of my life.
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01:51
Through these two climbs,
you'll see my process for managing fear.
you'll see my process for managing fear.
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通过这两次攀爬，
你便能知道我管理恐惧的过程。
你便能知道我管理恐惧的过程。
我从大概十岁的时候
就在健身房开始攀岩运动
就在健身房开始攀岩运动
01:55
So I started climbing in a gym
when I was around 10 years old,
when I was around 10 years old,
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也就是说，我的一生
已经在攀岩运动上
已经在攀岩运动上
01:57
which means that my life
has been centered on climbing
has been centered on climbing
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专注了多于20年。
02:00
for more than 20 years.
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我在室内练习攀岩近十年后，
02:01
After nearly a decade
of climbing mostly indoors,
of climbing mostly indoors,
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我转向了室外攀岩
并逐渐开始了单人徒手攀岩。
并逐渐开始了单人徒手攀岩。
02:04
I made the transition to the outdoors
and gradually started free soloing.
and gradually started free soloing.
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随着时间的推移，
我逐渐开始习惯无绳索。
我逐渐开始习惯无绳索。
02:07
I built up my comfort over time
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并慢慢地接受了
更大，更具挑战性的墙壁。
更大，更具挑战性的墙壁。
02:09
and slowly took on
bigger and more challenging walls.
bigger and more challenging walls.
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此前有很多徒手独攀的前辈，
02:11
And there have been
many free soloists before me,
many free soloists before me,
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我从他们那里获得了很多的灵感。
02:14
so I had plenty of
inspiration to draw from.
inspiration to draw from.
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但到2008年时，我就复现了绝大
多数前辈在优胜美地的徒手独攀，
多数前辈在优胜美地的徒手独攀，
02:16
But by 2008, I'd repeated
most of their previous solos in Yosemite
most of their previous solos in Yosemite
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然后我便开始了向新的地带探寻。
02:19
and was starting to imagine
breaking into new terrain.
breaking into new terrain.
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那显而易见的第一选择
就是“半穹顶”，
就是“半穹顶”，
02:21
The obvious first choice was Half Dome,
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这座惊艳的600米高的岩壁
是整个山谷东侧的主人。
是整个山谷东侧的主人。
02:23
an iconic 2,000-foot wall
the lords over the east end of the valley.
the lords over the east end of the valley.
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02:27
The problem, though also the allure,
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挑战的难点，也是其诱惑的地方，
在于它实在是太大了。
02:29
was that it was too big.
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当时我还不太清楚如何去
为一个徒手独攀做准备。
为一个徒手独攀做准备。
02:30
I didn't really know how to prepare
for a potential free solo.
for a potential free solo.
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所以我干脆就没有做准备，
02:33
So I decided to skip the preparations
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直接去迎接这次探险。
02:35
and just go up there
and have an adventure.
and have an adventure.
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我本想着也许我能
就在那一次超常发挥，
就在那一次超常发挥，
02:38
I figured I would rise to the occasion,
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显然，这不是最好的策略。
02:40
which, unsurprisingly,
was not the best strategy.
was not the best strategy.
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02:43
I did at least climb the route
roped up with a friend two days before
roped up with a friend two days before
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但我还是至少在两天前，
跟一个朋友带着绳索攀爬了一次
跟一个朋友带着绳索攀爬了一次
只是想确认一下大概的攀爬路径
02:47
just to make sure
that I knew roughly where to go
that I knew roughly where to go
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以及看看是否在我的
体能范围之内。
体能范围之内。
02:49
and that I could physically do it.
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但当我在两天之后独自攀爬时，
02:51
But when I came back
by myself two days later,
by myself two days later,
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我临时决定不去爬原定路线。
02:53
I decided that I didn't
want to go that way.
want to go that way.
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我知道那里大概有
91米的可变空间
91米的可变空间
02:55
I knew that there was a 300-foot variation
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绕过着攀爬路径中
最难的一个部分。
最难的一个部分。
02:57
that circled around
one of the hardest parts of the climb.
one of the hardest parts of the climb.
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我突然决定放弃最难的那一个部分
而选择可变空间，
而选择可变空间，
03:00
I suddenly decided to skip the hard part
and take the variation,
and take the variation,
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尽管我从来没有爬过那里，
03:03
even though I'd never climbed it before,
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但我又紧接着开始怀疑自己。
03:05
but I immediately began to doubt myself.
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想象一下你独自一人，
在610米高的峭壁死亡中心，
在610米高的峭壁死亡中心，
03:07
Imagine being by yourself
in the dead center of a 2,000-foot face,
in the dead center of a 2,000-foot face,
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想知道自己是否迷路了。
03:10
wondering if you're lost.
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（笑声）
03:12
(Laughter)
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谢天谢地，我选择了
几乎是正确的路
几乎是正确的路
03:13
Thankfully, it was
pretty much the right way
pretty much the right way
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然后我又迂回至计划的路线上。
03:16
and I circled back to the route.
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当时我有一点点慌张，
好吧我相当的慌张，
好吧我相当的慌张，
03:18
I was slightly rattled,
I was pretty rattled,
I was pretty rattled,
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但我努力不受太大的情绪影响，
03:20
but I tried not to let it
bother me too much
bother me too much
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因为我知道最难的部分在顶端。
03:23
because I knew that all the hardest
climbing was up at the top.
climbing was up at the top.
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我需要保持镇静。
03:26
I needed to stay composed.
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那是一个美丽的九月份早晨，
随着我越爬越高，
随着我越爬越高，
03:28
It was a beautiful September morning,
and as I climbed higher,
and as I climbed higher,
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我能够听到游客们在
山顶上的聊天与欢笑。
山顶上的聊天与欢笑。
03:30
I could hear the sounds of tourists
chatting and laughing on the summit.
chatting and laughing on the summit.
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他们都是从山背后一般的
登山路线走上来的，
登山路线走上来的，
03:34
They'd all hiked up
the normal trail on the back,
the normal trail on the back,
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那也是我准备的走下山的路线。
03:36
which I was planning on using
for my descent.
for my descent.
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但在我和山顶之间
有一块光滑的花岗岩平板。
有一块光滑的花岗岩平板。
03:38
But between me and the summit
lay a blank slab of granite.
lay a blank slab of granite.
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上面没有裂缝，或是
边缘能让我抓住，
边缘能让我抓住，
03:41
There were no cracks
or edges to hold on to,
or edges to hold on to,
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只有一些细小的波纹状的花纹
在一个接近于垂直的表面。
在一个接近于垂直的表面。
03:43
just small ripples of texture
up a slightly less than vertical wall.
up a slightly less than vertical wall.
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我得把我的生命托付给我攀岩鞋
03:47
I had to trust my life to the friction
between my climbing shoes
between my climbing shoes
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与光滑的花岗岩之间的摩擦力。
03:50
and the smooth granite.
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我小心谨慎地平衡着向上移动，
03:51
I carefully balanced my way upward,
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在小凸起上来回转移我的重心。
03:53
shifting my weight back and forth
between the small smears.
between the small smears.
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但是随之我面临着一个
我不太能信任的脚点，
我不太能信任的脚点，
03:55
But then I reached a foothold
that I didn't quite trust.
that I didn't quite trust.
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若是两天之前，
我会毫不犹豫地踏上去，
我会毫不犹豫地踏上去，
03:58
Two days ago, I'd have just
stepped right up on it,
stepped right up on it,
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但那是因为我有绳索的保护。
04:01
but that would have been with a rope on.
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现在它看起来太小太滑了。
04:02
Now it felt too small and too slippery.
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当我将重心放上去的时候，
我很怀疑我的脚是否能站住。
我很怀疑我的脚是否能站住。
04:04
I doubted that my foot
would stay on if I weighted it.
would stay on if I weighted it.
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我也考虑一英尺外的另一个选择，
但是那个更糟糕。
但是那个更糟糕。
04:07
I considered a foot further to the side,
which seemed worse.
which seemed worse.
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我替换了下双脚的位置，
用一只脚试探更远的地方。
用一只脚试探更远的地方。
04:10
I switched my feet and tried
a foot further out.
a foot further out.
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但是感觉更糟糕。
04:12
It seemed even worse.
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我开始恐慌了。
04:13
I started to panic.
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我能听见人们在就在
我头顶上欢声笑语。
我头顶上欢声笑语。
04:15
I could hear people laughing
on the summit just above me.
on the summit just above me.
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我当时真的不想继续
呆在那块花岗岩平板上
呆在那块花岗岩平板上
04:17
I wanted to be anywhere but on that slab.
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我的心思在向四处游走，
04:19
My mind was racing in every direction.
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我清楚地知道我别无选择，
但是当时害怕得没有勇气迈出那一步。
但是当时害怕得没有勇气迈出那一步。
04:21
I knew what I had to do,
but I was too afraid to do it.
but I was too afraid to do it.
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我只是需要用我的右脚踩住就好了。
04:24
I just had to stand up on my right foot.
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所以我在感觉经历了永恒过后，
我就接受了我必须迈出去的现实。
我就接受了我必须迈出去的现实。
04:26
And so after what felt like an eternity,
I accepted what I had to do
I accepted what I had to do
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我用右脚踏上了那个脚点，
04:30
and I stood up on the right foot,
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并没有滑掉，所以我也没有死，
04:31
and it didn't slip, and so I didn't die,
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那最难的一步之后，
剩余的攀爬就云淡风轻了。
剩余的攀爬就云淡风轻了。
04:33
and that move marked the end
of the hardest climbing.
of the hardest climbing.
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04:36
And so I charged from there
towards the summit.
towards the summit.
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所以我接下来激昂地
一口气爬到山顶。
一口气爬到山顶。
一般情况下，当你
成功登顶半穹顶后，
成功登顶半穹顶后，
04:38
And so normally when you summit Half Dome,
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你会有绳索等等
攀岩装备挂在身上，
攀岩装备挂在身上，
04:41
you have a rope and a bunch
of climbing gear on you,
of climbing gear on you,
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游客们会惊叹并
蜂拥而至与你合影。
蜂拥而至与你合影。
04:43
and tourists gasp and they
flock around you for photos.
flock around you for photos.
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这一次我出现在山顶边缘，
赤裸着上身，气喘吁吁而又兴奋。
赤裸着上身，气喘吁吁而又兴奋。
04:46
This time I popped over the edge
shirtless, panting, jacked.
shirtless, panting, jacked.
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我自己非常陶醉，
但是没有游客看我一眼。
但是没有游客看我一眼。
04:49
I was amped, but nobody batted an eye.
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04:51
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
04:57
I looked like a lost hiker
that was too close to the edge.
that was too close to the edge.
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我看起来像一个站在山顶边缘
迷失了方向的徒步登山者。
迷失了方向的徒步登山者。
我身边都是在打电话、
野餐的游客们。
野餐的游客们。
04:59
I was surrounded by people
talking on cell phones and having picnics.
talking on cell phones and having picnics.
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我感觉像是在商场里。
05:04
I felt like I was in a mall.
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（笑声）
05:06
(Laughter)
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我脱下我非常紧的攀爬鞋，
开始走下山去，
开始走下山去，
05:08
I took off my tight climbing shoes
and started hiking back down,
and started hiking back down,
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这时才有一个人注意到我说：
05:11
and that's when people stopped me.
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“光脚登山？你可真厉害！”
05:13
"You're hiking barefoot?
That's so hard-core."
That's so hard-core."
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05:15
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
我都不想去解释，
05:22
I didn't bother to explain,
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05:24
but that night in my climbing journal,
I duly noted my free solo of Half Dome,
I duly noted my free solo of Half Dome,
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那天晚上在我的登山日记中，
完整记录了我半穹顶的徒手独攀，
完整记录了我半穹顶的徒手独攀，
但是我也画下了一个皱眉的表情，
“我能做的更好吗？”
“我能做的更好吗？”
05:28
but I included a frowny face
and a comment, "Do better?"
and a comment, "Do better?"
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05:33
I'd succeeded in the solo
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我确实成功独攀登顶了，
并且，它作为攀岩界伟大
的第一次而被庆祝。
的第一次而被庆祝。
05:34
and it was celebrated
as a big first in climbing.
as a big first in climbing.
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一些朋友后来还拍了
一部讲述它的电影
一部讲述它的电影
05:36
Some friends later made a film about it.
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但是我并没有被满足。
05:38
But I was unsatisfied.
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我对我的表现感到失望，
05:40
I was disappointed in my performance,
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因为我知道我逃过了一劫。
05:42
because I knew that I had
gotten away with something.
gotten away with something.
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我不想成为一个幸运的攀岩者，
我只想成为一个优秀的攀岩者。
我只想成为一个优秀的攀岩者。
05:44
I didn't want to be a lucky climber.
I wanted to be a great climber.
I wanted to be a great climber.
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所以在那之后的一年多里
我都没有再去做徒手独攀，
我都没有再去做徒手独攀，
05:47
I actually took the next year or so
off from free soloing,
off from free soloing,
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因为我知道我不能培养出
依靠在运气上的习惯
依靠在运气上的习惯
05:50
because I knew that I shouldn't
make a habit of relying on luck.
make a habit of relying on luck.
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但是虽然我不常去独自攀岩，
05:53
But even though
I wasn't soloing very much,
I wasn't soloing very much,
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我已经开始计划攀爬酋长岩了。
05:55
I'd already started to think about El Cap.
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它在我心里一直都是
徒手独攀界皇冠上的宝石。
徒手独攀界皇冠上的宝石。
05:57
It was always in the back of my mind
as the obvious crown jewel of solos.
as the obvious crown jewel of solos.
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它是世界上最耀眼的一面攀爬墙。
06:01
It's the most striking wall in the world.
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在那之后的七年中的每一年，
06:03
Each year, for the next seven years,
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06:05
I'd think, "This is the year
that I'm going to solo El Cap."
that I'm going to solo El Cap."
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我都告诉自己说，
“今年我会徒手独攀酋长岩。”
“今年我会徒手独攀酋长岩。”
06:08
And then I would drive into Yosemite,
look up at the wall, and think,
look up at the wall, and think,
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然后我就会开车进入优胜美地，
看着那面墙，想着,
看着那面墙，想着,
“这谁爬得上去！”
06:11
"No frickin' way."
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（笑声）
06:13
(Laughter)
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它实在是太大太吓人了。
06:15
It's too big and too scary.
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但最终我终于接受了
我想接受酋长岩的挑战。
我想接受酋长岩的挑战。
06:17
But eventually I came to accept that
I wanted to test myself against El Cap.
I wanted to test myself against El Cap.
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登顶意味着对精湛技巧的
娴熟掌握，
娴熟掌握，
06:21
It represented true mastery,
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但这次我需要与上次不同的感觉。
06:23
but I needed it to feel different.
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我不想要任何惊险或是迟疑。
06:25
I didn't want to get away with anything
or barely squeak by.
or barely squeak by.
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我想要以最正确的方式征服它。
06:28
This time I wanted to do it right.
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06:31
The thing that makes El Cap
so intimidating
so intimidating
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酋长岩令人胆怯的地方在于
它整面墙庞大的规模。
06:33
is the sheer scale of the wall.
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大多数攀岩者会花3-5天
06:35
Most climbers take three to five days
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来攀爬这块914.4米垂直的
花岗岩。
花岗岩。
06:36
to ascend the 3,000 feet
of vertical granite.
of vertical granite.
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想象一下你只能用一双鞋，
和一包石灰粉，
和一包石灰粉，
06:39
The idea of setting out
up a wall of that size
up a wall of that size
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来爬这么大的一面墙简直不可能。
06:41
with nothing but shoes and
a chalk bag seemed impossible.
a chalk bag seemed impossible.
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900多米的攀爬意味着
06:45
3,000 feet of climbing represents
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上千次的的大幅度的手脚运动，
06:46
thousands of distinct
hand and foot movements,
hand and foot movements,
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这么多的动作都需要记住。
06:49
which is a lot to remember.
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很多动作我完全靠
肌肉重复来记住.
肌肉重复来记住.
06:50
Many of the moves I knew
through sheer repetition.
through sheer repetition.
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我在过去十年里用绳索
攀爬了酋长岩不下50次。
攀爬了酋长岩不下50次。
06:52
I'd climbed El Cap maybe 50 times
over the previous decade with a rope.
over the previous decade with a rope.
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这张照片展示了我通常
训练动作的方法。
训练动作的方法。
06:56
But this photo shows my preferred
method of rehearsing the moves.
method of rehearsing the moves.
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我在山顶上，
06:59
I'm on the summit,
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正准备贴着表面将
一千多英尺的绳索防下去，
一千多英尺的绳索防下去，
07:00
about to repel down the face
with over a thousand feet of rope
with over a thousand feet of rope
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花一整天时间练习。
07:03
to spend the day practicing.
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只要我发现安全并
可重复实现的动作，
可重复实现的动作，
07:05
Once I found sequences
that felt secure and repeatable,
that felt secure and repeatable,
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我就必须记住它们。
07:07
I had to memorize them.
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我必须确保这些动作
根植在我心里
根植在我心里
07:09
I had to make sure that they were
so deeply ingrained within me
so deeply ingrained within me
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并且没有丝毫出错的可能性。
07:12
that there was no possibility of error.
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我不想花任何时间去犹豫
哪一边是正确的路径
哪一边是正确的路径
07:13
I didn't want to be wondering
if I was going the right way
if I was going the right way
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或是哪里是最佳的手点。
07:16
or using the best holds.
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我需要一切动作都来得自然。
07:18
I needed everything to feel automatic.
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在有绳索保护下的攀爬
基本上是个体力活。
基本上是个体力活。
07:20
Climbing with a rope
is a largely physical effort.
is a largely physical effort.
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你只需要足够健硕来
抓住岩壁并向上攀爬。
抓住岩壁并向上攀爬。
07:22
You just have to be strong enough
to hold on and make the movements upward.
to hold on and make the movements upward.
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但是徒手独攀更是考验内心。
07:26
But free soloing
plays out more in the mind.
plays out more in the mind.
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体力付出基本上是相同的。
07:28
The physical effort is largely the same.
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你的身体仍然是爬一样的墙。
07:30
Your body is still climbing the same wall.
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但是你需要保持冷静
并且时刻表现出最佳状态
并且时刻表现出最佳状态
07:32
But staying calm
and performing at your best
and performing at your best
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当你知道任何错误都
可能意味着死亡时，
可能意味着死亡时，
07:34
when you know that
any mistake could mean death
any mistake could mean death
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需要某种超乎平常的心态。
07:36
requires a certain kind of mindset.
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（笑声）
07:38
(Laughter)
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我没想到这点你们也会觉得好笑，
但是你们觉得好笑也行。
但是你们觉得好笑也行。
07:41
That's not supposed to be funny,
but if it is, it is.
but if it is, it is.
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（笑声）
07:43
(Laughter)
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我努力通过幻想视觉
来培养那种心境，
来培养那种心境，
07:46
I worked to cultivate that mindset
through visualization,
through visualization,
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换句话说我会在脑海中
幻想整个攀爬过程。
幻想整个攀爬过程。
07:49
which basically just means imagining
the entire experience of soloing the wall.
the entire experience of soloing the wall.
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一方面，这能帮助我记住
各个手点与脚点的位置，
各个手点与脚点的位置，
07:53
Partially, that was to help me
remember all the holds,
remember all the holds,
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但更多的，幻想帮助我感觉到
07:55
but mostly visualization
was about feeling the texture
was about feeling the texture
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每一块手点的纹路
07:58
of each hold in my hand
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幻想我伸出腿踏上去的感觉。
07:59
and imagining the sensation of my leg
reaching out and placing my foot just so.
reaching out and placing my foot just so.
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我会将这全部幻想成
在高空中编排的舞蹈。
在高空中编排的舞蹈。
08:03
I'd imagine it all like a choreographed
dance thousands of feet up.
dance thousands of feet up.
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整段路径最难的一个部分
叫做“巨石难题”
叫做“巨石难题”
08:06
The most difficult part of the whole route
was called the Boulder Problem.
was called the Boulder Problem.
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它在距离地面600多米处，
08:10
It was about 2,000 feet off the ground
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包含了整个攀爬中
最难的几个肢体动作。
最难的几个肢体动作。
08:12
and consisted of the hardest
physical moves on the whole route:
physical moves on the whole route:
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在不理想的手点之间长拉
加上非常小且滑的脚点。
加上非常小且滑的脚点。
08:15
long pulls between poor handholds
with very small, slippery feet.
with very small, slippery feet.
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当我说 “不理想的手点”
意味着这样的情境：
意味着这样的情境：
08:18
This is what I mean by a poor handhold:
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小于一只铅笔宽面
朝下的一个边缘
朝下的一个边缘
08:20
an edge smaller than the width
of a pencil but facing downward
of a pencil but facing downward
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我需要用我的拇指扣住。
08:23
that I had to press up into with my thumb.
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但那还不是最难的。
08:26
But that wasn't even the hardest part.
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最难的部分需要我
完成一个空手道踢腿脚法，
完成一个空手道踢腿脚法，
08:28
The crux culminated in a karate kick
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我的左脚趴在里面一个
相邻的角落的情况下，
相邻的角落的情况下，
08:29
with my left foot over to the inside
of an adjacent corner,
of an adjacent corner,
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需要高度的精确和灵活的动作，
08:32
a maneuver that required a high degree
of precision and flexibility,
of precision and flexibility,
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让我不得不提前一年
开始的每天晚上
开始的每天晚上
08:35
enough so that I'd been doing
a nightly stretching routine
a nightly stretching routine
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完成特定伸展运动训练
08:38
for a full year ahead of time
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来确保我能够自然地伸腿可及。
08:40
to make sure that I could comfortably
make the reach with my leg.
make the reach with my leg.
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随着我练习那些动作，
08:43
As I practiced the moves,
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我的幻想视觉还需加入
08:44
my visualization turned
to the emotional component
to the emotional component
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徒手独攀中的情绪管理。
08:46
of a potential solo.
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也就是说，如果我爬上去
发现太吓人了怎么办？
发现太吓人了怎么办？
08:48
Basically, what if I got up there
and it was too scary?
and it was too scary?
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如果我精疲力竭了怎么办？
08:51
What if I was too tired?
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如果我没法做出
那个踢腿动作怎么办？
那个踢腿动作怎么办？
08:52
What if I couldn't quite make the kick?
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我需要当我还能在地面上
理智思考时设想每一种可能性，
理智思考时设想每一种可能性，
08:54
I had to consider every possibility
while I was safely on the ground,
while I was safely on the ground,
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因为当如此情况真的来临时，
我是没有绳索保险的，
我是没有绳索保险的，
08:57
so that when the time came and I was
actually making the moves without a rope,
actually making the moves without a rope,
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也就没有空间让我迟疑片刻。
09:01
there was no room for doubt to creep in.
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迟疑便是恐惧的先兆，
09:03
Doubt is the precursor to fear,
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我知道如果我想体验完美，
我将不能拥有任何恐惧。
我将不能拥有任何恐惧。
09:04
and I knew that I couldn't experience
my perfect moment if I was afraid.
my perfect moment if I was afraid.
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我必须在幻想视觉中排练
足够多次来解决所有迟疑。
足够多次来解决所有迟疑。
09:08
I had to visualize and rehearse
enough to remove all doubt.
enough to remove all doubt.
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但是超出除了那些问题，
我还会幻想
我还会幻想
09:11
But beyond that, I also
visualized how it would feel
visualized how it would feel
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如果最后发现
这计划不可行怎么办。
这计划不可行怎么办。
09:13
if it never seemed doable.
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如果经历了这么多准备工作后，
我胆怯了怎么办？
我胆怯了怎么办？
09:15
What if, after so much work,
I was afraid to try?
I was afraid to try?
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如果一切准备都是徒劳怎么办？
09:19
What if I was wasting my time
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09:20
and I would never feel comfortable
in such an exposed position?
in such an exposed position?
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如果在这样的环境下
我没办法冷静面对怎么办？
我没办法冷静面对怎么办？
这些问题太难回答了。
09:24
There were no easy answers,
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但是酋长岩本身对于我就是答案，
它本身就值得我的付出。
它本身就值得我的付出。
09:25
but El Cap meant enough to me
that I would put in the work and find out.
that I would put in the work and find out.
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我还有其他一些更
乏味的准备工作。
乏味的准备工作。
09:29
Some of my preparations were more mundane.
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这是我朋友康拉德·安克
09:31
This is a photo of my friend Conrad Anker
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背着一个空双肩包从
酋长岩底部爬上来。
酋长岩底部爬上来。
09:33
climbing up the bottom of El Cap
with an empty backpack.
with an empty backpack.
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我们花一整天的时间
09:36
We spent the day climbing together
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攀爬到一个位于整面墙中间的一道裂缝，
09:38
to a specific crack
in the middle of the wall
in the middle of the wall
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那里有不少松动的石头夹于裂缝之间，
09:40
that was choked with loose rocks
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这让这个区域充满了潜在的危险，
09:41
that made that section
difficult and potentially dangerous,
difficult and potentially dangerous,
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因为任何失误都有
可能导致石子的掉落，
可能导致石子的掉落，
09:44
because any missed step
might knock a rock to the ground
might knock a rock to the ground
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对下面的徒步者或者
攀爬者造成致命的伤害。
攀爬者造成致命的伤害。
09:47
and kill a passing climber or hiker.
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所以我们小心翼翼地移除了
那些石头，装在背包里，
那些石头，装在背包里，
09:49
So we carefully removed the rocks,
loaded them into the pack
loaded them into the pack
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然后带回地面。
09:52
and rappelled back down.
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09:53
Take a second to imagine
how ridiculous it feels
how ridiculous it feels
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你想想这场景多么荒谬，
09:55
to climb 1,500 feet up a wall
just to fill a backpack full of rocks.
just to fill a backpack full of rocks.
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你爬至450米高只是
为了装一背包石头回家。
为了装一背包石头回家。
（笑声）
09:58
(Laughter)
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背着一包石头已经很不容易了，
10:00
It's never that easy to carry
a pack full of rocks around.
a pack full of rocks around.
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在悬崖峭壁上是格外的难。
10:03
It's even harder on the side of a cliff.
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它可能看起来很愚蠢，
但是这是必须完成的工作。
但是这是必须完成的工作。
10:05
It may have felt silly,
but it still had to get done.
but it still had to get done.
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如果要去进行无绳索攀岩，
10:07
I needed everything to feel perfect
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我必须要一切都感觉完美。
10:09
if I was ever going to climb
the route without a rope.
the route without a rope.
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在我为单人徒手攀岩酋长岩
全力以赴地准备了两个季节后，
全力以赴地准备了两个季节后，
10:12
After two seasons of working specifically
toward a potential free solo of El Cap,
toward a potential free solo of El Cap,
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我终于完成了我所有的准备工作。
10:15
I finally finished all my preparations.
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我知道整条路线的
每一个手点和脚点，
每一个手点和脚点，
10:17
I knew every handhold
and foothold on the whole route,
and foothold on the whole route,
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我明确的知道我该怎么做。
10:20
and I knew exactly what to do.
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简单来说，我准备好了。
10:21
Basically, I was ready.
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10:23
It was time to solo El Cap.
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是时候进行酋长岩的自由独攀了。
10:25
On June 3, 2017,
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在2017年6月3日，
我起得很早，吃了我日常的
牛奶什锦和水果早餐
牛奶什锦和水果早餐
10:27
I woke up early, ate my usual
breakfast of muesli and fruit
breakfast of muesli and fruit
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在太阳升起之前
到达了峭壁的脚下。
到达了峭壁的脚下。
10:31
and made it to the base
of the wall before sunrise.
of the wall before sunrise.
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我向上看的时候感觉到无比自信。
10:33
I felt confident as I looked up the wall.
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随着我开始攀爬，
我的感觉越来越好。
我的感觉越来越好。
10:35
I felt even better as I started climbing.
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10:38
About 500 feet up, I reached a slab
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在爬了150米高时，
我遇到了一个大石面，
我遇到了一个大石面，
与半穹顶那一块
石面难题十分相似，
石面难题十分相似，
10:40
very similar to the one that had
given me so much trouble on Half Dome,
given me so much trouble on Half Dome,
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但这一次很不同。
10:43
but this time was different.
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我早就分析了所有的可能性，
包括几百英尺的迂回选项。
包括几百英尺的迂回选项。
10:45
I'd scouted every option, including
hundreds of feet of wall to either side.
hundreds of feet of wall to either side.
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我明确地知道我
该做些什么，怎么做。
该做些什么，怎么做。
10:49
I knew exactly what to do
and how to do it.
and how to do it.
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我没有迟疑，
直接爬了上去。
直接爬了上去。
10:51
I had no doubts.
I just climbed right through.
I just climbed right through.
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10:54
Even the difficult and strenuous
sections passed by with ease.
sections passed by with ease.
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就算是最难的部分
我也轻松通过。
我也轻松通过。
我完美地执行了我的日常。
10:57
I was perfectly executing my routine.
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11:00
I rested for a moment
below the Boulder Problem
below the Boulder Problem
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我在巨石问题下面休息了一会儿，
然后我就直接爬了上去就如同
我有绳索保护时的练习一样。
我有绳索保护时的练习一样。
11:02
and then climbed it just as I had
practiced so many times with the rope on.
practiced so many times with the rope on.
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我的腿毫不犹豫地踢出
并踏上了了左侧的墙面，
并踏上了了左侧的墙面，
11:06
My foot shot across to the wall
on the left without hesitation,
on the left without hesitation,
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我知道我成功地做到了。
11:09
and I knew that I had done it.
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11:12
Climbing Half Dome had been a big goal
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攀爬半穹顶是一个很大的目标，
我完成了，
11:14
and I did it,
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但我没有得到我真正想要的。
11:16
but I didn't get what I really wanted.
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我没有真正掌握精湛的技艺。
11:17
I didn't achieve mastery.
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我迟疑了我害怕了，
这不是我想要的体验。
这不是我想要的体验。
11:19
I was hesitant and afraid, and it wasn't
the experience that I wanted.
the experience that I wanted.
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但酋长岩这次不一样。
11:22
But El Cap was different.
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在距离登顶600英尺时，我已经
感受到这山体在向我祝贺胜利。
感受到这山体在向我祝贺胜利。
11:24
With 600 feet to go, I felt like the
mountain was offering me a victory lap.
mountain was offering me a victory lap.
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我平稳且精准地攀爬着，
11:28
I climbed with a smooth precision
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11:30
and enjoyed the sounds of the birds
swooping around the cliff.
swooping around the cliff.
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我享受鸟儿们在
峭壁旁俯冲的声音。
峭壁旁俯冲的声音。
这全部都像是对胜利的庆祝。
11:32
It all felt like a celebration.
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然后我在3小时56分钟
11:34
And then I reached the summit
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荣耀的攀爬后成功地登顶了。
11:35
after three hours and 56 minutes
of glorious climbing.
of glorious climbing.
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这是我想要的攀登，
这感觉才像领悟。
这感觉才像领悟。
11:38
It was the climb that I wanted,
and it felt like mastery.
and it felt like mastery.
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谢谢。
11:41
Thank you.
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（掌声）
11:42
(Applause)
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Alex Honnold - Rock climberAlex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers.
Why you should listen
A gifted but hard-working athlete, Honnold is known as much for his humble, self-effacing attitude as he is for the dizzyingly tall cliffs he has climbed without a rope to protect him if he falls. Honnold has been profiled by 60 Minutes and the New York Times, featured on the cover of National Geographic, appeared in international television commercials and starred in numerous adventure films, including the Emmy-nominated Alone on the Wall. He is the subject of the documentary feature Free Solo, which was released by National Geographic Documentary Films.
Honnold is the founder of the Honnold Foundation, a nonprofit that promotes solar energy access worldwide. To this day, he maintains his simple "dirtbag-climber" existence, living out of his van, donating a significant portion of his income to the Honnold Foundation and traveling the world in search of the next great vertical adventure.
Alex Honnold | Speaker | TED.com