TED2018
Alex Honnold: How I climbed a 3,000-foot vertical cliff -- without ropes
艾力克斯霍諾德: 我如何不用繩索攀爬上三千英呎的垂直峭壁
Filmed:
Readability: 3.9
8,433,060 views
想像只有你獨自處在三千英呎高的垂直峭壁正中間——如果你掉下去，沒有繩索拉住你。對職業攀岩者艾力克斯霍諾德而言，這個讓人暈眩的景象，是他十年夢想的高潮。在這場讓人寒毛直豎的演說中，他訴說如何爬上酋長岩頂峰的故事，完成了史上最危險的自由獨攀壯舉之一。
Alex Honnold - Rock climber
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers. Full bio
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:13
Hello. I'd like to show you guys
30 seconds of the best day of my life.
30 seconds of the best day of my life.
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哈囉。我想先讓大家
看一段三十秒的影片，
看一段三十秒的影片，
這是我人生中最棒的一天。
00:50
(Applause)
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（掌聲）
00:56
So that was El Capitan
in California's Yosemite National Park,
in California's Yosemite National Park,
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那是加州優勝美地
國家公園的「酋長岩」，
國家公園的「酋長岩」，
01:00
and in case you couldn't tell,
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萬一你們看不出來，
我是獨自攀爬，且沒有用繩索，
我是獨自攀爬，且沒有用繩索，
01:02
I was climbing by myself without a rope,
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01:04
a style of a climbing
known as free soloing.
known as free soloing.
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這種攀爬方式稱為「自由獨攀」。
01:06
That was the culmination
of a nearly decade-long dream,
of a nearly decade-long dream,
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那是我近十年夢想的巔峰結晶。
01:09
and in the video I'm over
2,500 feet off the ground.
2,500 feet off the ground.
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影片中的我離地面
超過兩千五百英呎。
超過兩千五百英呎。
01:12
Seems scary? Yeah, it is,
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似乎很可怕？的確，
01:14
which is why I spent so many years
dreaming about soloing El Cap
dreaming about soloing El Cap
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這就是為什麼我夢想要獨攀酋長岩
這麼多年，卻一直沒有行動。
這麼多年，卻一直沒有行動。
01:17
and not actually doing it.
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01:18
But on the day that that video was taken,
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但在拍攝那支影片的那一天，
01:21
it didn't feel scary at all.
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感覺一點也不可怕。
01:22
It felt as comfortable and natural
as a walk in the park,
as a walk in the park,
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感覺就像在公園散步一樣舒服自然，
01:25
which is what most folks
were doing in Yosemite that day.
were doing in Yosemite that day.
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那天在優勝美地大部分人
也的確只是在公園散步。
也的確只是在公園散步。
01:28
Today I'd like to talk about
how I was able to feel so comfortable
how I was able to feel so comfortable
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今天，我想要談談我
怎麼能夠感到這麼舒服，
怎麼能夠感到這麼舒服，
及我如何克服恐懼。
01:31
and how I overcame my fear.
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我會先簡短說明我如何變成攀岩者，
01:32
I'll start with a very brief version
of how I became a climber,
of how I became a climber,
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接下來說的故事則是我
近期兩次最重要的自由獨攀。
近期兩次最重要的自由獨攀。
01:35
and then tell the story
of my two most significant free solos.
of my two most significant free solos.
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兩次都很成功，
這就是為什麼我能在這裡。
這就是為什麼我能在這裡。
01:38
They were both successful,
which is why I'm here.
which is why I'm here.
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（笑聲）
01:41
(Laughter)
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01:43
But the first felt largely unsatisfying,
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但第一次感覺非常不滿足，
01:47
whereas the second, El Cap, was by far
the most fulfilling day of my life.
the most fulfilling day of my life.
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而第二次，爬酋長岩，
是我人生目前為止最滿足的一天。
是我人生目前為止最滿足的一天。
01:51
Through these two climbs,
you'll see my process for managing fear.
you'll see my process for managing fear.
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透過這兩次攀爬，
你們可以了解我管理恐懼的過程。
你們可以了解我管理恐懼的過程。
01:55
So I started climbing in a gym
when I was around 10 years old,
when I was around 10 years old,
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我約十歲時，就開始
在健身房中攀岩，
在健身房中攀岩，
意即二十多年來
我的生活一直以攀岩為中心。
我的生活一直以攀岩為中心。
01:57
which means that my life
has been centered on climbing
has been centered on climbing
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02:00
for more than 20 years.
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近十年的時間，
我多半是在室內攀爬，
我多半是在室內攀爬，
02:01
After nearly a decade
of climbing mostly indoors,
of climbing mostly indoors,
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之後，我轉向戶外，
漸漸開始了自由獨攀。
漸漸開始了自由獨攀。
02:04
I made the transition to the outdoors
and gradually started free soloing.
and gradually started free soloing.
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隨時間，我建立起舒適感，
02:07
I built up my comfort over time
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慢慢地開始嘗試更大、
更有挑戰性的山壁。
更有挑戰性的山壁。
02:09
and slowly took on
bigger and more challenging walls.
bigger and more challenging walls.
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在我之前已有許多自由獨攀者，
02:11
And there have been
many free soloists before me,
many free soloists before me,
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有很多人可以當鼓舞我的榜樣。
02:14
so I had plenty of
inspiration to draw from.
inspiration to draw from.
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到 2008 年，我已爬過大部分
他們過去獨攀過的優勝美地路線，
他們過去獨攀過的優勝美地路線，
02:16
But by 2008, I'd repeated
most of their previous solos in Yosemite
most of their previous solos in Yosemite
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我開始想像攀爬新的地形。
02:19
and was starting to imagine
breaking into new terrain.
breaking into new terrain.
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很明顯的第一選擇就是半圓丘，
02:21
The obvious first choice was Half Dome,
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它是個代表性的兩千英呎山壁，
稱霸在山谷的東側。
稱霸在山谷的東側。
02:23
an iconic 2,000-foot wall
the lords over the east end of the valley.
the lords over the east end of the valley.
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02:27
The problem, though also the allure,
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它的問題，也是它的魅力所在，
02:29
was that it was too big.
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就是它太大了。
02:30
I didn't really know how to prepare
for a potential free solo.
for a potential free solo.
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我不知道要如何為一趟
潛在的自由獨攀行程做準備。
潛在的自由獨攀行程做準備。
02:33
So I decided to skip the preparations
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所以我決定跳過準備階段，
直接上去冒險。
直接上去冒險。
02:35
and just go up there
and have an adventure.
and have an adventure.
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02:38
I figured I would rise to the occasion,
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我覺得我可以迎接挑戰，
02:40
which, unsurprisingly,
was not the best strategy.
was not the best strategy.
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結果，並不意外，
那並非最好的策略。
那並非最好的策略。
02:43
I did at least climb the route
roped up with a friend two days before
roped up with a friend two days before
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我至少有在兩天前和一位朋友
綁著繩索，爬過那段路線，
綁著繩索，爬過那段路線，
02:47
just to make sure
that I knew roughly where to go
that I knew roughly where to go
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只要確保我大致上知道方向，
且確保我在身體上能辦得到。
02:49
and that I could physically do it.
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02:51
But when I came back
by myself two days later,
by myself two days later,
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但兩天後我獨自再次返回時，
02:53
I decided that I didn't
want to go that way.
want to go that way.
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我決定不走那條路。
02:55
I knew that there was a 300-foot variation
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我知道有一條
三百英呎的替代路線，
三百英呎的替代路線，
02:57
that circled around
one of the hardest parts of the climb.
one of the hardest parts of the climb.
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它會繞過攀爬路線中
最困難的部分。
最困難的部分。
我突然決定要跳過困難的部分，
選擇走替代路線，
選擇走替代路線，
03:00
I suddenly decided to skip the hard part
and take the variation,
and take the variation,
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即使我以前沒有爬過那條路，
03:03
even though I'd never climbed it before,
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但我馬上就開始自我懷疑了。
03:05
but I immediately began to doubt myself.
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03:07
Imagine being by yourself
in the dead center of a 2,000-foot face,
in the dead center of a 2,000-foot face,
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想像你獨自一人
在兩千英呎表面的正中心，
在兩千英呎表面的正中心，
03:10
wondering if you're lost.
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納悶你是否迷路了。
03:12
(Laughter)
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（笑聲）
03:13
Thankfully, it was
pretty much the right way
pretty much the right way
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謝天謝地，我大致上沒走錯路，
03:16
and I circled back to the route.
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我繞回了原來的路線。
03:18
I was slightly rattled,
I was pretty rattled,
I was pretty rattled,
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我有點驚恐，我蠻驚恐的，
03:20
but I tried not to let it
bother me too much
bother me too much
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但我試著不要讓
驚恐的感覺煩擾我，
驚恐的感覺煩擾我，
03:23
because I knew that all the hardest
climbing was up at the top.
climbing was up at the top.
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因為我知道攀爬
最困難的部分是在頂端。
最困難的部分是在頂端。
我需要保持沉著。
03:26
I needed to stay composed.
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03:28
It was a beautiful September morning,
and as I climbed higher,
and as I climbed higher,
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那是個美好的九月早晨，
我越爬越高，
我越爬越高，
我能聽到頂峰上傳來
遊客聊天說笑的聲音。
遊客聊天說笑的聲音。
03:30
I could hear the sounds of tourists
chatting and laughing on the summit.
chatting and laughing on the summit.
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他們都是從背後的
正常小道步行上去的，
正常小道步行上去的，
03:34
They'd all hiked up
the normal trail on the back,
the normal trail on the back,
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我打算在下山時也要走那條小道。
03:36
which I was planning on using
for my descent.
for my descent.
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但在我和頂峰之間有著
平平的花崗岩斜岩板。
平平的花崗岩斜岩板。
03:38
But between me and the summit
lay a blank slab of granite.
lay a blank slab of granite.
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上面沒有裂縫或是邊緣可以抓，
03:41
There were no cracks
or edges to hold on to,
or edges to hold on to,
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只有小小的漣漪紋理，
在這近乎垂直的山壁上。
在這近乎垂直的山壁上。
03:43
just small ripples of texture
up a slightly less than vertical wall.
up a slightly less than vertical wall.
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我把性命託付於攀登鞋
和平滑花崗岩之間的磨擦力。
和平滑花崗岩之間的磨擦力。
03:47
I had to trust my life to the friction
between my climbing shoes
between my climbing shoes
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03:50
and the smooth granite.
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我很小心地保持平衡向上爬，
03:51
I carefully balanced my way upward,
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在每次小小的貼踩之間，
前後移動我的重心。
前後移動我的重心。
03:53
shifting my weight back and forth
between the small smears.
between the small smears.
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但接著，我遇到了一個
我不太信任的踩腳處。
我不太信任的踩腳處。
03:55
But then I reached a foothold
that I didn't quite trust.
that I didn't quite trust.
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03:58
Two days ago, I'd have just
stepped right up on it,
stepped right up on it,
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兩天前，我可能
就會直接踩上去了，
就會直接踩上去了，
但那是因為我有綁繩索。
04:01
but that would have been with a rope on.
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現在，那個踩腳處
感覺太小又太滑。
感覺太小又太滑。
04:02
Now it felt too small and too slippery.
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我懷疑當我把體重壓上去
腳還能不能踩得住。
腳還能不能踩得住。
04:04
I doubted that my foot
would stay on if I weighted it.
would stay on if I weighted it.
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我考慮再向旁邊一英呎的地方，
但那裡似乎更糟。
但那裡似乎更糟。
04:07
I considered a foot further to the side,
which seemed worse.
which seemed worse.
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我交換了腳，試圖再向外一英呎。
那裡似乎還更糟。
那裡似乎還更糟。
04:10
I switched my feet and tried
a foot further out.
a foot further out.
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04:12
It seemed even worse.
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我開始慌了。
04:13
I started to panic.
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我能聽到人們的笑聲
從我上面的頂峰傳來。
從我上面的頂峰傳來。
04:15
I could hear people laughing
on the summit just above me.
on the summit just above me.
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在任何地方，都比
在這片斜岩板上好。
在這片斜岩板上好。
04:17
I wanted to be anywhere but on that slab.
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04:19
My mind was racing in every direction.
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我的腦袋轉個不停。
04:21
I knew what I had to do,
but I was too afraid to do it.
but I was too afraid to do it.
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我知道我該怎麼做，
但我太害怕了不敢去做。
但我太害怕了不敢去做。
我只需要靠右腳站好。
04:24
I just had to stand up on my right foot.
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04:26
And so after what felt like an eternity,
I accepted what I had to do
I accepted what I had to do
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在經過一段彷彿是永恆的掙扎
之後，我接受了我該做的事，
之後，我接受了我該做的事，
04:30
and I stood up on the right foot,
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我靠右腳站好了，
04:31
and it didn't slip, and so I didn't die,
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結果沒有打滑，所以我沒有死，
04:33
and that move marked the end
of the hardest climbing.
of the hardest climbing.
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這段攀岩最困難的部分
就到此告一段落。
就到此告一段落。
04:36
And so I charged from there
towards the summit.
towards the summit.
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從那裡，我朝向頂峰挺進。
04:38
And so normally when you summit Half Dome,
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通常，當你登上半圓丘時，
04:41
you have a rope and a bunch
of climbing gear on you,
of climbing gear on you,
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你身上會有一根繩索
和一堆攀岩裝備，
和一堆攀岩裝備，
遊客會驚訝地發出聲音，
圍著你拍照。
圍著你拍照。
04:43
and tourists gasp and they
flock around you for photos.
flock around you for photos.
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這次，我砰一聲翻過邊緣，
沒穿上衣，喘吁吁，肌肉賁張。
沒穿上衣，喘吁吁，肌肉賁張。
04:46
This time I popped over the edge
shirtless, panting, jacked.
shirtless, panting, jacked.
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我很興奮，但大家都面不改色。
04:49
I was amped, but nobody batted an eye.
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04:51
(Laughter)
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（笑聲）
04:57
I looked like a lost hiker
that was too close to the edge.
that was too close to the edge.
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我看起來像是個迷路的健行者，
站得太靠近邊緣。
站得太靠近邊緣。
04:59
I was surrounded by people
talking on cell phones and having picnics.
talking on cell phones and having picnics.
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我身邊圍繞著人群，
不是在講手機就是在野餐。
我好像在購物中心裡。
我好像在購物中心裡。
05:04
I felt like I was in a mall.
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05:06
(Laughter)
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（笑聲）
05:08
I took off my tight climbing shoes
and started hiking back down,
and started hiking back down,
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我脫下了我很緊的攀岩鞋，
開始向下步行，
開始向下步行，
此時有人叫住了我。
05:11
and that's when people stopped me.
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「你赤腳步行？真是硬漢。」
05:13
"You're hiking barefoot?
That's so hard-core."
That's so hard-core."
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05:15
(Laughter)
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（笑聲）
05:22
I didn't bother to explain,
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我也懶得解釋，
05:24
but that night in my climbing journal,
I duly noted my free solo of Half Dome,
I duly noted my free solo of Half Dome,
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但那晚，我在我的攀岩日誌中
審慎記載了我的半圓丘自由獨攀，
05:28
but I included a frowny face
and a comment, "Do better?"
and a comment, "Do better?"
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但我還畫上了一個哭臉，
加註「做更好？」
加註「做更好？」
05:33
I'd succeeded in the solo
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我的獨攀成功了，它被當成
重大的第一次攀爬來慶祝。
重大的第一次攀爬來慶祝。
05:34
and it was celebrated
as a big first in climbing.
as a big first in climbing.
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有些朋友後來為此
製作了一支影片。
製作了一支影片。
05:36
Some friends later made a film about it.
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05:38
But I was unsatisfied.
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但我不滿足。
05:40
I was disappointed in my performance,
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我對我的表現很失望，
因為我知道我有僥倖之處。
05:42
because I knew that I had
gotten away with something.
gotten away with something.
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我不想要當個幸運的攀岩者，
我想要當個偉大的攀岩者。
我想要當個偉大的攀岩者。
05:44
I didn't want to be a lucky climber.
I wanted to be a great climber.
I wanted to be a great climber.
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我休了一年多的假，
沒有去自由獨攀，
沒有去自由獨攀，
05:47
I actually took the next year or so
off from free soloing,
off from free soloing,
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因為我知道我不應該
養成依賴運氣的習慣。
養成依賴運氣的習慣。
05:50
because I knew that I shouldn't
make a habit of relying on luck.
make a habit of relying on luck.
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但即使我不常去獨攀，
05:53
But even though
I wasn't soloing very much,
I wasn't soloing very much,
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我已經開始想著酋長岩了。
05:55
I'd already started to think about El Cap.
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我內心深處一直把它
視為是獨攀的至寶。
視為是獨攀的至寶。
05:57
It was always in the back of my mind
as the obvious crown jewel of solos.
as the obvious crown jewel of solos.
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它是世界上最惹人注目的山壁。
06:01
It's the most striking wall in the world.
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06:03
Each year, for the next seven years,
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接下來的七年，每一年
06:05
I'd think, "This is the year
that I'm going to solo El Cap."
that I'm going to solo El Cap."
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我都會想：「今年
我要去獨攀酋長岩。」
我要去獨攀酋長岩。」
06:08
And then I would drive into Yosemite,
look up at the wall, and think,
look up at the wall, and think,
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接著，我會開車去優勝美地，
抬頭看著山壁，
抬頭看著山壁，
心想：「門都沒有。」
06:11
"No frickin' way."
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06:13
(Laughter)
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（笑聲）
06:15
It's too big and too scary.
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它太大了，太駭人了。
06:17
But eventually I came to accept that
I wanted to test myself against El Cap.
I wanted to test myself against El Cap.
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但最終，我漸漸接受我想要
測試我自己對抗酋長岩的能耐。
測試我自己對抗酋長岩的能耐。
06:21
It represented true mastery,
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它代表著真正的征服，
06:23
but I needed it to feel different.
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但我需要有不同的感覺。
06:25
I didn't want to get away with anything
or barely squeak by.
or barely squeak by.
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我並不想要有任何僥倖
或是勉強過關。
或是勉強過關。
06:28
This time I wanted to do it right.
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這次我想要把它做對。
06:31
The thing that makes El Cap
so intimidating
so intimidating
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酋長岩之所以令人生畏，
06:33
is the sheer scale of the wall.
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完全是因為山壁的規模。
大部分的攀岩者要花三到五天
來攀登三千英呎的垂直花崗岩。
來攀登三千英呎的垂直花崗岩。
06:35
Most climbers take three to five days
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06:36
to ascend the 3,000 feet
of vertical granite.
of vertical granite.
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06:39
The idea of setting out
up a wall of that size
up a wall of that size
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向上攀爬這麼巨大的山壁，
06:41
with nothing but shoes and
a chalk bag seemed impossible.
a chalk bag seemed impossible.
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且只有鞋子和一個攀岩粉袋，
似乎是不可能的。
似乎是不可能的。
06:45
3,000 feet of climbing represents
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攀爬三千英呎，就表示有
數千個手和腳的移動動作，
數千個手和腳的移動動作，
06:46
thousands of distinct
hand and foot movements,
hand and foot movements,
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多到很難記住。
06:49
which is a lot to remember.
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06:50
Many of the moves I knew
through sheer repetition.
through sheer repetition.
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我會記住許多移動動作
只是因為不斷重覆。
只是因為不斷重覆。
06:52
I'd climbed El Cap maybe 50 times
over the previous decade with a rope.
over the previous decade with a rope.
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過去十年，我用繩索爬過
酋長岩大約五十次，
酋長岩大約五十次，
06:56
But this photo shows my preferred
method of rehearsing the moves.
method of rehearsing the moves.
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但這張照片呈現的
是我偏好的排練動作方式。
是我偏好的排練動作方式。
我在頂峰，準備用一千英呎的
繩索向下爬，挑戰這個表面，
繩索向下爬，挑戰這個表面，
06:59
I'm on the summit,
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07:00
about to repel down the face
with over a thousand feet of rope
with over a thousand feet of rope
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花一天的時間自己練習。
07:03
to spend the day practicing.
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07:05
Once I found sequences
that felt secure and repeatable,
that felt secure and repeatable,
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一旦找到感覺很安全且可重覆的
順序，我就得記住它們。
順序，我就得記住它們。
07:07
I had to memorize them.
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07:09
I had to make sure that they were
so deeply ingrained within me
so deeply ingrained within me
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我得要確保它們都
深深刻在我的腦海中，
深深刻在我的腦海中，
不能有任何失誤的可能。
07:12
that there was no possibility of error.
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我不想要納悶我是否
爬對方向、用到最好的洞。
爬對方向、用到最好的洞。
07:13
I didn't want to be wondering
if I was going the right way
if I was going the right way
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07:16
or using the best holds.
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我得讓一切都感覺像自動的一樣。
07:18
I needed everything to feel automatic.
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07:20
Climbing with a rope
is a largely physical effort.
is a largely physical effort.
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用繩索攀爬，主要就是靠體力。
07:22
You just have to be strong enough
to hold on and make the movements upward.
to hold on and make the movements upward.
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你只要夠強壯可以抓穩
並向上移動即可。
並向上移動即可。
但自由獨攀有更大
一部分是在腦中。
一部分是在腦中。
07:26
But free soloing
plays out more in the mind.
plays out more in the mind.
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體力的需求大致上差不多。
07:28
The physical effort is largely the same.
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你的身體還是在攀爬同一個山壁。
07:30
Your body is still climbing the same wall.
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07:32
But staying calm
and performing at your best
and performing at your best
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但在你知道犯錯就可能
意味著死亡的情況下，
意味著死亡的情況下，
07:34
when you know that
any mistake could mean death
any mistake could mean death
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還要保持冷靜和做出最佳表現，
07:36
requires a certain kind of mindset.
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這就需要某種心態了。
07:38
(Laughter)
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（笑聲）
07:41
That's not supposed to be funny,
but if it is, it is.
but if it is, it is.
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這不應該是好笑的，
不過如果好笑也罷。
不過如果好笑也罷。
07:43
(Laughter)
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（笑聲）
07:46
I worked to cultivate that mindset
through visualization,
through visualization,
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我努力透過視覺化
來培養那種心態，
來培養那種心態，
07:49
which basically just means imagining
the entire experience of soloing the wall.
the entire experience of soloing the wall.
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基本上，視覺化就表示想像
獨攀那山壁的整個經歷。
獨攀那山壁的整個經歷。
07:53
Partially, that was to help me
remember all the holds,
remember all the holds,
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這麼做有一部分是在
幫我記住所有的洞，
幫我記住所有的洞，
但主要是在感覺我手抓到的
每一個洞是什麼樣的結構，
每一個洞是什麼樣的結構，
07:55
but mostly visualization
was about feeling the texture
was about feeling the texture
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07:58
of each hold in my hand
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並想像我的腿向外伸出
再把腳放下來的感受。
再把腳放下來的感受。
07:59
and imagining the sensation of my leg
reaching out and placing my foot just so.
reaching out and placing my foot just so.
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08:03
I'd imagine it all like a choreographed
dance thousands of feet up.
dance thousands of feet up.
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我會把它想像成編好的舞步，
只是在幾千英呎高。
只是在幾千英呎高。
08:06
The most difficult part of the whole route
was called the Boulder Problem.
was called the Boulder Problem.
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整條路線中最困難的部分，
被稱為「抱石問題」。
被稱為「抱石問題」。
它離地約兩千英呎，
08:10
It was about 2,000 feet off the ground
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包含有整條路線上
最困難的身體動作：
最困難的身體動作：
08:12
and consisted of the hardest
physical moves on the whole route:
physical moves on the whole route:
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踩踏處又小又滑，手抓處不理想，
做長距離的拉式動作。
做長距離的拉式動作。
08:15
long pulls between poor handholds
with very small, slippery feet.
with very small, slippery feet.
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我說手抓處不理想的意思是：
08:18
This is what I mean by a poor handhold:
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08:20
an edge smaller than the width
of a pencil but facing downward
of a pencil but facing downward
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邊緣比鉛筆的寬度
還要小，且洞口向下，
還要小，且洞口向下，
08:23
that I had to press up into with my thumb.
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我得要把我的大拇指向上推進去。
08:26
But that wasn't even the hardest part.
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但那還不是最難的部分。
08:28
The crux culminated in a karate kick
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難關的高潮在於用我的左腳
08:29
with my left foot over to the inside
of an adjacent corner,
of an adjacent corner,
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做空手道踢腳，
踢向鄰接角落的內側，
踢向鄰接角落的內側，
08:32
a maneuver that required a high degree
of precision and flexibility,
of precision and flexibility,
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這一招需很高的精準度和柔軟度，
08:35
enough so that I'd been doing
a nightly stretching routine
a nightly stretching routine
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我提早整整一年，
晚上都為此在做例行的伸展，
晚上都為此在做例行的伸展，
08:38
for a full year ahead of time
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確保我的腳能很舒適地搆著目標。
08:40
to make sure that I could comfortably
make the reach with my leg.
make the reach with my leg.
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當我練習動作的時候，
08:43
As I practiced the moves,
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08:44
my visualization turned
to the emotional component
to the emotional component
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我的視覺化會轉換為
潛在獨攀的情緒成分。
08:46
of a potential solo.
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08:48
Basically, what if I got up there
and it was too scary?
and it was too scary?
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基本上，如果我爬上去之後，
發現太可怕怎麼辦？
發現太可怕怎麼辦？
08:51
What if I was too tired?
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我太累了怎麼辦？我做不太到
那個踢的動作怎麼辦？
那個踢的動作怎麼辦？
08:52
What if I couldn't quite make the kick?
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08:54
I had to consider every possibility
while I was safely on the ground,
while I was safely on the ground,
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我還安全地待在地上時，
就得要考量所有的可能性，
就得要考量所有的可能性，
等時候到了，我才能真正
不靠繩索就做出那些動作，
不靠繩索就做出那些動作，
08:57
so that when the time came and I was
actually making the moves without a rope,
actually making the moves without a rope,
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沒有任何懷疑的空間。
09:01
there was no room for doubt to creep in.
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懷疑就是恐懼的前兆，
09:03
Doubt is the precursor to fear,
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我知道如果害怕
就不能體驗到完美的時刻。
就不能體驗到完美的時刻。
09:04
and I knew that I couldn't experience
my perfect moment if I was afraid.
my perfect moment if I was afraid.
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我得要做視覺化，
做足夠演練，消除所有懷疑。
做足夠演練，消除所有懷疑。
09:08
I had to visualize and rehearse
enough to remove all doubt.
enough to remove all doubt.
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但在那之外，我也會視覺化想像
09:11
But beyond that, I also
visualized how it would feel
visualized how it would feel
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看似做不到時的感覺。
09:13
if it never seemed doable.
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09:15
What if, after so much work,
I was afraid to try?
I was afraid to try?
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萬一，做了這麼多努力之後，
我卻害怕不敢試呢？
我卻害怕不敢試呢？
萬一我是在浪費我的時間，
09:19
What if I was wasting my time
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09:20
and I would never feel comfortable
in such an exposed position?
in such an exposed position?
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我永遠不可能在這麼
無掩蔽的狀況下感到舒適呢？
無掩蔽的狀況下感到舒適呢？
09:24
There were no easy answers,
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沒有簡單的答案。
09:25
but El Cap meant enough to me
that I would put in the work and find out.
that I would put in the work and find out.
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但酋長岩對我意義重大，
讓我願意努力去找答案。
讓我願意努力去找答案。
09:29
Some of my preparations were more mundane.
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有一些準備工作十分平凡。
09:31
This is a photo of my friend Conrad Anker
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這張照片中的人
是我朋友康瑞安克，
是我朋友康瑞安克，
09:33
climbing up the bottom of El Cap
with an empty backpack.
with an empty backpack.
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背著空的背包從
酋長岩的底部向上爬。
酋長岩的底部向上爬。
09:36
We spent the day climbing together
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我們那天一起攀爬到
山壁中間一個特定的裂縫處，
山壁中間一個特定的裂縫處，
09:38
to a specific crack
in the middle of the wall
in the middle of the wall
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它被鬆動的岩石給塞住，
09:40
that was choked with loose rocks
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讓那個區段很難爬
且有潛在的危險性，
且有潛在的危險性，
09:41
that made that section
difficult and potentially dangerous,
difficult and potentially dangerous,
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因為如果沒踩好，
就可能讓一塊岩石向下落，
就可能讓一塊岩石向下落，
09:44
because any missed step
might knock a rock to the ground
might knock a rock to the ground
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砸死路過的攀岩者或登山客。
09:47
and kill a passing climber or hiker.
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所以我們小心地把岩石
移除，放到背包中，
移除，放到背包中，
09:49
So we carefully removed the rocks,
loaded them into the pack
loaded them into the pack
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再用繩索下降下來。
09:52
and rappelled back down.
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09:53
Take a second to imagine
how ridiculous it feels
how ridiculous it feels
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想像一下這感覺有多可笑，
09:55
to climb 1,500 feet up a wall
just to fill a backpack full of rocks.
just to fill a backpack full of rocks.
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爬上一千五百英呎的山壁，
只為了把背包裝滿岩石。
只為了把背包裝滿岩石。
09:58
(Laughter)
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（笑聲）
10:00
It's never that easy to carry
a pack full of rocks around.
a pack full of rocks around.
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平常背著一袋岩石就很不輕鬆了。
在峭壁邊上更是困難。
10:03
It's even harder on the side of a cliff.
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感覺可能很蠢，
但這是必需要做的。
但這是必需要做的。
10:05
It may have felt silly,
but it still had to get done.
but it still had to get done.
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若我真的要不用繩索去攀爬
那條路線，我得讓一切完美。
那條路線，我得讓一切完美。
10:07
I needed everything to feel perfect
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10:09
if I was ever going to climb
the route without a rope.
the route without a rope.
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我花了兩季的時間
專門準備潛在的酋長岩獨攀，
專門準備潛在的酋長岩獨攀，
10:12
After two seasons of working specifically
toward a potential free solo of El Cap,
toward a potential free solo of El Cap,
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終於，我把所有的準備做好了。
10:15
I finally finished all my preparations.
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我知道整條路線上的
每個手抓處和腳踩處，
每個手抓處和腳踩處，
10:17
I knew every handhold
and foothold on the whole route,
and foothold on the whole route,
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我非常清楚該做什麼。
10:20
and I knew exactly what to do.
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基本上，我準備好了。
10:21
Basically, I was ready.
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10:23
It was time to solo El Cap.
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該是獨攀酋長岩的時候了。
10:25
On June 3, 2017,
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2017 年 6 月 3 日，
10:27
I woke up early, ate my usual
breakfast of muesli and fruit
breakfast of muesli and fruit
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我很早起，吃了平常的
牛奶什錦早餐和水果，
牛奶什錦早餐和水果，
10:31
and made it to the base
of the wall before sunrise.
of the wall before sunrise.
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在日出之前到達了山壁的底部。
10:33
I felt confident as I looked up the wall.
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我抬頭看著山壁時感到自信。
10:35
I felt even better as I started climbing.
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開始攀爬後我更有自信。
10:38
About 500 feet up, I reached a slab
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大約向上爬了五百英呎，
我到達了一塊斜岩板，
我到達了一塊斜岩板，
10:40
very similar to the one that had
given me so much trouble on Half Dome,
given me so much trouble on Half Dome,
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和半圓丘上給我添很多
麻煩的那一塊很類似，
麻煩的那一塊很類似，
10:43
but this time was different.
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但這次可不一樣。
10:45
I'd scouted every option, including
hundreds of feet of wall to either side.
hundreds of feet of wall to either side.
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我已經偵察過每個選項，
包括兩邊數百英呎的山壁。
包括兩邊數百英呎的山壁。
10:49
I knew exactly what to do
and how to do it.
and how to do it.
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我很清楚該做什麼以及怎麼做。
10:51
I had no doubts.
I just climbed right through.
I just climbed right through.
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我毫無懷疑，直接攀爬過去。
10:54
Even the difficult and strenuous
sections passed by with ease.
sections passed by with ease.
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即使是困難且費勁的區段，
我也輕鬆通過。
我也輕鬆通過。
10:57
I was perfectly executing my routine.
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我完美地執行例行公事。
11:00
I rested for a moment
below the Boulder Problem
below the Boulder Problem
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我在抱石問題下面休息了一下，
11:02
and then climbed it just as I had
practiced so many times with the rope on.
practiced so many times with the rope on.
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接著，就用我綁著繩索
練習過無數次的方式攀爬過它。
練習過無數次的方式攀爬過它。
我毫無猶豫地把腳
跨過左邊的山壁，
跨過左邊的山壁，
11:06
My foot shot across to the wall
on the left without hesitation,
on the left without hesitation,
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11:09
and I knew that I had done it.
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我知道我辦到了。
11:12
Climbing Half Dome had been a big goal
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爬半圓丘是個很大的目標，
11:14
and I did it,
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我做到了，但我沒有
得到我真正想要的。
得到我真正想要的。
11:16
but I didn't get what I really wanted.
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11:17
I didn't achieve mastery.
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我沒精通。
11:19
I was hesitant and afraid, and it wasn't
the experience that I wanted.
the experience that I wanted.
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我猶豫又害怕，
那不是我想要的經驗。
那不是我想要的經驗。
11:22
But El Cap was different.
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但酋長岩就不同了。
11:24
With 600 feet to go, I felt like the
mountain was offering me a victory lap.
mountain was offering me a victory lap.
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還剩六百英呎要爬，我覺得這座山
在讓我拿著金牌繞場跑一圈。
在讓我拿著金牌繞場跑一圈。
11:28
I climbed with a smooth precision
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我非常精準地攀爬著，
11:30
and enjoyed the sounds of the birds
swooping around the cliff.
swooping around the cliff.
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享受著在峭壁附近
俯衝的鳥兒的聲音。
俯衝的鳥兒的聲音。
感覺就像是慶祝一樣。
11:32
It all felt like a celebration.
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11:34
And then I reached the summit
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我花了 3 小時 56 分到達頂峰，
完成一段榮耀的攀登。
完成一段榮耀的攀登。
11:35
after three hours and 56 minutes
of glorious climbing.
of glorious climbing.
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這就是我想要的攀登，
感覺就像是精通了。
感覺就像是精通了。
11:38
It was the climb that I wanted,
and it felt like mastery.
and it felt like mastery.
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謝謝。
11:41
Thank you.
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11:42
(Applause)
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（掌聲）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Alex Honnold - Rock climberAlex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers.
Why you should listen
A gifted but hard-working athlete, Honnold is known as much for his humble, self-effacing attitude as he is for the dizzyingly tall cliffs he has climbed without a rope to protect him if he falls. Honnold has been profiled by 60 Minutes and the New York Times, featured on the cover of National Geographic, appeared in international television commercials and starred in numerous adventure films, including the Emmy-nominated Alone on the Wall. He is the subject of the documentary feature Free Solo, which was released by National Geographic Documentary Films.
Honnold is the founder of the Honnold Foundation, a nonprofit that promotes solar energy access worldwide. To this day, he maintains his simple "dirtbag-climber" existence, living out of his van, donating a significant portion of his income to the Honnold Foundation and traveling the world in search of the next great vertical adventure.
Alex Honnold | Speaker | TED.com