TED2010
Dan Barber: How I fell in love with a fish
Den Barber (Dan Barber): Kako sam se zaljubio u ribu
Filmed:
Readability: 3.6
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Kuvar Den Barber se bori sa dilemom sa kojom se danas suočavaju mnogi kuvari: kako zadržati ribu na meniju. Uz savršeno istraživanje i bezizražajan humor, priča priču o svojoj potrazi za održivom ribom koju bi mogao da voli i o medenom mesecu za sladokusce u kom je uživao kada je otkrio bezobrazno ukusnu ribu koja se u Španiji uzgaja revolucionarnim metodama.
Dan Barber - Chef
Dan Barber is a chef and a scholar -- relentlessly pursuing the stories and reasons behind the foods we grow and eat. Full bio
Dan Barber is a chef and a scholar -- relentlessly pursuing the stories and reasons behind the foods we grow and eat. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:16
So, I've known a lot of fish in my life.
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Poznavao sam mnogo riba u svom životu.
00:20
I've loved only two.
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Samo dve sam voleo.
00:23
That first one,
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Ona prva
00:25
it was more like a passionate affair.
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bila je više strasna avantura.
00:28
It was a beautiful fish:
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Riba je bila prelepa,
00:30
flavorful, textured, meaty,
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ukusna, sa teksturom, mesnata,
00:33
a bestseller on the menu.
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najbolje se prodavala na meniju.
00:35
What a fish.
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Kakva riba.
00:37
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
00:40
Even better,
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Što je još bolje,
00:42
it was farm-raised to the supposed highest standards
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uzgajana je u ribnjaku, po navodno najvišim standardima
00:45
of sustainability.
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održivosti.
00:48
So you could feel good about selling it.
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Osećali biste se dobro što je prodajete.
00:52
I was in a relationship with this beauty
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Bio sam u vezi sa ovom lepoticom
00:54
for several months.
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nekoliko meseci.
00:58
One day, the head of the company called
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Jednog dana zvao je šef kompanije
01:00
and asked if I'd speak at an event
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i pitao da li bih govorio na nekom događaju
01:02
about the farm's sustainability.
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o održivosti ribnjaka.
01:04
"Absolutely," I said.
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"Naravno", rekao sam.
01:06
Here was a company trying to solve
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Jedna kompanija pokušava da reši
01:09
what's become this unimaginable problem for us chefs:
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nezamisliv problem za naše kuvare.
01:13
How do we keep fish on our menus?
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Kako da zadržimo ribu na jelovnicima?
01:17
For the past 50 years,
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Poslednjih 50 godina
01:20
we've been fishing the seas
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lovimo po morima
01:22
like we clear-cut forests.
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kao što sečemo šume.
01:25
It's hard to overstate the destruction.
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Teško je preterati sa destrukcijom.
01:30
Ninety percent of large fish, the ones we love --
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90% velike ribe koju volimo,
01:33
the tunas, the halibuts, the salmons, swordfish --
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tuna, list, losos, sabljarka,
01:36
they've collapsed.
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nestalo je.
01:38
There's almost nothing left.
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Skoro ih više nema.
01:41
So, for better or for worse,
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Tako da, hteli, ne hteli
01:44
aquaculture, fish farming, is going to be a part of our future.
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akvakultura, ribnjaci će biti deo naše budućnosti.
01:47
A lot of arguments against it:
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Postoji mnogo argumenata protiv toga.
01:49
Fish farms pollute -- most of them do anyway --
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Ribnjaci zagađuju, bar većina,
01:52
and they're inefficient. Take tuna,
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i nisu efikasni, pogledajte tunu.
01:54
a major drawback.
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Mnogo mana.
01:56
It's got a feed conversion ratio
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Indeks konverzije hrane je
01:58
of 15 to one.
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7,5 prema jedan.
02:00
That means it takes fifteen pounds of wild fish
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To znači da je potrebno 7,5kg divlje ribe
02:02
to get you one pound of farm tuna.
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da bi se dobilo pola kg tunjevine iz ribnjaka.
02:06
Not very sustainable.
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Nije baš održivo.
02:08
It doesn't taste very good either.
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Nije baš ni dobrog ukusa.
02:11
So here, finally,
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Konačno se pojavila
02:13
was a company trying to do it right.
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kompanija koja pokušava da to uradi kako treba.
02:15
I wanted to support them.
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Želeo sam da ih podržim.
02:18
The day before the event,
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Dan pre tog događaja,
02:20
I called the head of P.R. for the company.
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pozvao sam šefa službe za odnose sa javnošću.
02:23
Let's call him Don.
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Nazovimo ga Don.
02:27
"Don," I said, "just to get the facts straight, you guys are famous
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"Don", rekao sam, "samo da razjasnim činjenice, vi ste poznati
02:30
for farming so far out to sea, you don't pollute."
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po tome što uzgajate ribu daleko na pučini, ne zagađujete."
02:33
"That's right," he said. "We're so far out,
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"Tako je", rekao, "Toliko smo daleko,
02:36
the waste from our fish gets distributed,
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da se otpad iz našeg ribnjaka raznosi,
02:39
not concentrated."
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a ne koncentriše."
02:41
And then he added,
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I onda je dodao
02:43
"We're basically a world unto ourselves.
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"Mi smo ustvari svet za sebe.
02:47
That feed conversion ratio? 2.5 to one," he said.
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Indeks konverzije hrane? 2.5 prema jedan", rekao je.
02:50
"Best in the business."
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"Najbolji u poslu."
02:52
2.5 to one, great.
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2.5 prema jedan, super.
02:54
"2.5 what? What are you feeding?"
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"2.5 prema jedan čega? Čime ih hranite?"
02:56
"Sustainable proteins," he said.
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"Održivim proteinima", rekao je.
02:59
"Great," I said. Got off the phone.
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"Odlično", rekoh. Spustio sam slušalicu.
03:02
And that night, I was lying in bed, and I thought:
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Te noći, ležim u krevetu i razmišljam:
03:05
What the hell is a sustainable protein?
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Šta je, dođavola, održivi protein?
03:07
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
03:12
So the next day, just before the event, I called Don.
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I sledećeg dana, baš pre događaja, nazovem ja Dona.
03:14
I said, "Don, what are some examples of sustainable proteins?"
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Kažem, "Don, koji su primeri održivih proteina?"
03:18
He said he didn't know. He would ask around.
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On reče da ne zna. Raspitaće se.
03:21
Well, I got on the phone with a few people in the company;
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Pa, razgovarao sam sa nekoliko ljudi iz kompanije.
03:23
no one could give me a straight answer
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Niko mi nije dao konkretan odgovor.
03:26
until finally, I got on the phone
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Dok konačno nisam stupio
03:29
with the head biologist.
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u vezu sa glavnim biologom.
03:31
Let's call him Don too.
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Nazovimo i njega Don.
03:33
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
03:37
"Don," I said,
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"Don", pitao sam,
03:39
"what are some examples of sustainable proteins?"
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"dajte mi neke primere održivih proteina."
03:42
Well, he mentioned some algaes
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Pa, spomenuo je neke alge,
03:44
and some fish meals,
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neka jela za ribe
03:46
and then he said chicken pellets.
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i onda je rekao pileće okruglice.
03:48
I said, "Chicken pellets?"
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Rekoh, "Pileće okruglice?"
03:50
He said, "Yeah, feathers, skin,
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Kaže on, "Da, perje, koža,
03:52
bone meal, scraps,
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koštana srž, ostaci,
03:54
dried and processed into feed."
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osušeni i pretvoreni u hranu"
03:57
I said, "What percentage
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Pitao sam "Koliki procenat
03:59
of your feed is chicken?"
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vaše hrane je piletina?",
04:02
Thinking, you know, two percent.
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očekujući, znate, 2%.
04:05
"Well, it's about 30 percent," he said.
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"Pa, oko 30%", rekao je.
04:08
I said, "Don, what's sustainable
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Pitao sam ga "Don, kako je hranjenje
04:11
about feeding chicken to fish?"
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ribe piletinom održivo?"
04:13
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
04:18
There was a long pause on the line,
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Usledila je duga pauza na telefonu
04:21
and he said, "There's just too much chicken in the world."
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a onda je rekao "Ima previše piletine na svetu."
04:24
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
04:30
I fell out of love with this fish.
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Odljubio sam se od ove ribe.
04:32
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
04:34
No, not because I'm some self-righteous,
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Ne, to nije zato što sam neki moralni
04:37
goody-two shoes foodie.
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i ispravni lik koji voli hranu.
04:39
I actually am.
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To i jesam.
04:41
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
04:43
No, I actually fell out of love with this fish because, I swear to God,
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Ne, zapravo sam se odljubio od ove ribe jer, kunem se Bogom,
04:45
after that conversation, the fish tasted like chicken.
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posle tog razgovora, riba je imala ukus piletine.
04:48
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
04:58
This second fish,
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Druga riba,
05:01
it's a different kind of love story.
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drugačija vrsta ljubavne priče.
05:04
It's the romantic kind,
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Ova je romantična,
05:07
the kind where the more you get to know your fish,
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ona u kojoj što više upoznaješ svoju ribu,
05:10
you love the fish.
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voliš je.
05:13
I first ate it at a restaurant
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Prvi put sam je jeo u jednom restoranu
05:15
in southern Spain.
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u južnoj Španiji.
05:17
A journalist friend had been talking about this fish for a long time.
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Jedna prijateljica novinarka mi je dugo pričala o ovoj ribi.
05:20
She kind of set us up.
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Ona nas je ustvari spojila.
05:22
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
05:24
It came to the table
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Došla je za sto
05:26
a bright, almost shimmering, white color.
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svetle boje, skoro se sijala, bela.
05:31
The chef had overcooked it.
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Šef ju je prekuvao.
05:34
Like twice over.
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Duplo.
05:37
Amazingly, it was still delicious.
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Za divno čudo, i dalje je bila izvrsna.
05:40
Who can make a fish taste good
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Ko može da napravi da riba bude ukusna
05:44
after it's been overcooked?
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kad je prekuvana?
05:46
I can't,
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Ja ne mogu,
05:48
but this guy can.
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ali ovaj tip može.
05:50
Let's call him Miguel --
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Nazovimo ga Migel.
05:52
actually his name is Miguel.
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Ustvari on se i zove Migel.
05:54
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
05:57
And no, he didn't cook the fish, and he's not a chef,
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Ne, nije on kuvao ribu, on nije kuvar.
05:59
at least in the way that you and I understand it.
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Ne u smislu u kom vi i ja to shvatamo.
06:03
He's a biologist
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On je biolog
06:05
at Veta La Palma.
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u Veta la Palmi.
06:07
It's a fish farm in the southwestern corner of Spain.
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To je ribnjak na jugozapadnom uglu Španije.
06:10
It's at the tip of the Guadalquivir river.
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Nalazi se na ušću reke Gvadalkivir.
06:13
Until the 1980s,
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Do osamdesetih godina
06:15
the farm was in the hands of the Argentinians.
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farma se nalazila u posedu Argentinaca.
06:18
They raised beef cattle
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Uzgajali su stoku za klanje
06:20
on what was essentially wetlands.
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na močvarnom terenu.
06:23
They did it by draining the land.
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To su uspeli isušivanjem zemlje.
06:25
They built this intricate series of canals,
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Izgradili su zamršenu mrežu kanala
06:28
and they pushed water off the land and out into the river.
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i isterali vodu sa zemlje u reku.
06:32
Well, they couldn't make it work,
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Nije im uspelo,
06:34
not economically.
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ekonomski.
06:36
And ecologically, it was a disaster.
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I ekološki, bila je to katastrofa.
06:39
It killed like 90 percent of the birds,
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To je ubilo oko 90% ptica,
06:41
which, for this place, is a lot of birds.
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što je za ovo mesto mnogo ptica.
06:44
And so in 1982,
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I tako 1982.
06:46
a Spanish company with an environmental conscience
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španska kompanija sa razvijenom svešću o okolini,
06:48
purchased the land.
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kupuje ovu zemlju.
06:50
What did they do?
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Šta su uradili?
06:52
They reversed the flow of water.
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Obrnuli su tok vode.
06:54
They literally flipped the switch.
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Bukvalno su okrenuli prekidač.
06:56
Instead of pushing water out,
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Umesto da izbacuju vodu,
06:58
they used the channels to pull water back in.
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oni su kanale iskoristili da vrate vodu nazad.
07:00
They flooded the canals.
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Poplavili su kanale.
07:02
They created a 27,000-acre fish farm --
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Napravili su ribnjak od oko 10,000 ha -
07:06
bass, mullet,
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grgeč, cipal,
07:08
shrimp, eel --
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rakovi, jegulje -
07:11
and in the process, Miguel and this company
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i u toku procesa, Migel i njegova kompanija
07:14
completely reversed the ecological destruction.
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su potpuno preokrenuli ekološku katastrofu.
07:18
The farm's incredible.
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Ribnjak je neverovatan.
07:20
I mean, you've never seen anything like this.
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Nikada niste videli nešto ovakvo.
07:23
You stare out at a horizon
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Gledate u horizont
07:26
that is a million miles away,
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koji je kilometrima daleko
07:28
and all you see are flooded canals
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i sve što vidite su preplavljeni kanali
07:30
and this thick, rich marshland.
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i to gusto, bogato močvarno tlo.
07:35
I was there not long ago with Miguel.
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Nedavno sam bio tamo sa Migelom.
07:38
He's an amazing guy,
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On je neverovatan tip,
07:41
like three parts Charles Darwin and one part Crocodile Dundee.
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tri dela Čarls Darvin, jedan deo Krokodil Dendi.
07:44
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
07:46
Okay? There we are slogging through the wetlands,
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Ok? I tako se mi probijamo kroz močvare,
07:50
and I'm panting and sweating, got mud up to my knees,
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ja dahćem i znojim se, u blatu do kolena,
07:52
and Miguel's calmly conducting a biology lecture.
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a Migel mirno drži lekciju iz biologije.
07:56
Here, he's pointing out a rare Black-shouldered Kite.
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Tamo, pokazuje na retkog jastreba, crnokrilu lunju.
07:59
Now, he's mentioning the mineral needs of phytoplankton.
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Onda spominje mineralne potrebe fitoplanktona.
08:03
And here, here he sees a grouping pattern
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A ovde, ovde vidi grupaciju
08:06
that reminds him of the Tanzanian Giraffe.
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koja ga podseća na tanzanijsku žirafu.
08:11
It turns out, Miguel spent the better part of his career
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Ispostavlja se da je Migel proveo bolji deo svoje karijere
08:14
in the Mikumi National Park in Africa.
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u Nacionalnom parku Mikumi u Africi.
08:17
I asked him how he became
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Pitao sam ga kako je postao
08:19
such an expert on fish.
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takav stručnjak za ribe.
08:21
He said, "Fish? I didn't know anything about fish.
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Rekao je, "Ribe? Nisam ništa znao o ribama.
08:24
I'm an expert in relationships."
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Ja sam stručnjak za veze."
08:27
And then he's off, launching into more talk
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I onda nastavlja da priča o
08:29
about rare birds and algaes
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retkim pticama i algama
08:31
and strange aquatic plants.
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i čudnim vodenim biljkama.
08:33
And don't get me wrong, that was really fascinating, you know,
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Nemojte me pogrešno shvatiti, to je bilo zaista zadivljujuće,
08:36
the biotic community unplugged, kind of thing.
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nešto kao razotkrivanje biloške zajednice.
08:39
It's great, but I was in love.
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To je super, ali ja sam bio zaljubljen.
08:42
And my head was swooning over that
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U glavi mi se vrtelo od one
08:45
overcooked piece of delicious fish I had the night before.
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prekuvane izvrsne ribe koju sam jeo prethodne noći.
08:48
So I interrupted him. I said,
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Prekinuo sam ga. Rekao sam,
08:50
"Miguel, what makes your fish taste so good?"
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"Migel, kako to da je tvoja riba tako ukusna?"
08:52
He pointed at the algae.
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Pokazao je alge.
08:54
"I know, dude, the algae, the phytoplankton,
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"Znam, čoveče, alge, fitoplankton,
08:57
the relationships: It's amazing.
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veze, sve je to super.
09:00
But what are your fish eating?
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Ali šta tvoje ribe jedu?
09:02
What's the feed conversion ratio?"
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Koji je indeks konverzije hrane?"
09:05
Well, he goes on to tell me
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Pa, objašnjava on dalje,
09:09
it's such a rich system
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to je tako bogat sistem
09:11
that the fish are eating what they'd be eating in the wild.
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da ribe jedu ono što bi jele i u divljini.
09:14
The plant biomass, the phytoplankton,
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Biomasu biljaka, fitoplankton,
09:17
the zooplankton, it's what feeds the fish.
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zooplankton, to hrani ribu.
09:19
The system is so healthy,
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Sistem je toliko zdrav,
09:21
it's totally self-renewing.
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da je u potpunosti samoobnovljiv.
09:23
There is no feed.
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Nema dohrane.
09:26
Ever heard of a farm that doesn't feed its animals?
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Da li ste nekad čuli za farmu koja ne hrani svoje životinje?
09:33
Later that day, I was driving around this property with Miguel,
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Kasnije tog dana, vozio sam se imanjem sa Migelom
09:35
and I asked him, I said, "For a place that seems so natural,
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i pitao sam ga "Ovo mesto izgleda tako prirodno,
09:39
unlike like any farm I'd ever been at,
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potpuno različito od bilo kojeg ribnjaka u kom sam bio,
09:44
how do you measure success?"
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kako merite uspeh?"
09:47
At that moment, it was as if
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U trenutku je bilo kao da je
09:50
a film director called for a set change.
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režiser filma naredio promenu scene.
09:52
And we rounded the corner
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Zaokrenuli smo za ugao
09:54
and saw the most amazing sight:
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i videli najneverovatniji prizor,
09:56
thousands and thousands of pink flamingos,
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hiljade i hiljade rozih flamingosa,
09:59
a literal pink carpet for as far as you could see.
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bukvalno roza tepih dokle pogled seže.
10:03
"That's success," he said.
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"To je uspeh", rekao je.
10:06
"Look at their bellies, pink.
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"Pogledaj im stomake, rozi su.
10:08
They're feasting."
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Oni se goste."
10:10
Feasting? I was totally confused.
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Goste? Bio sam potpuno zbunjen.
10:12
I said, "Miguel, aren't they feasting on your fish?"
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Pitao sam, "Migel, pa zar se ne goste tvojom ribom?"
10:14
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
10:16
"Yes," he said.
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"Da", rekao je.
10:18
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
10:24
"We lose 20 percent of our fish
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"Ptice pojedu 20% naše ribe
10:26
and fish eggs to birds.
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i ikre.
10:30
Well, last year, this property
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Prošle godine, na ovo imanje
10:32
had 600,000 birds on it,
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dolazilo je 600.000 ptica,
10:34
more than 250 different species.
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više od 250 različitih vrsta.
10:36
It's become, today, the largest
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Do danas je postalo najveće
10:39
and one of the most important
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i jedno od najvažnijih
10:42
private bird sanctuaries in all of Europe."
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privatnih utočišta za ptice u celoj Evropi."
10:46
I said, "Miguel, isn't a thriving bird population
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Rekao sam, "Migel, zar rastuća populacija ptica
10:49
like the last thing you want on a fish farm?"
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nije poslednja stvar koja je potrebna jednom ribnjaku?"
10:51
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
10:53
He shook his head, no.
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Odmahnuo je glavom, ne.
10:55
He said, "We farm extensively,
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Rekao je, "Mi gajimo ekstenzivno,
10:58
not intensively.
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ne intenzivno.
11:01
This is an ecological network.
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Ovo je ekološka mreža.
11:04
The flamingos eat the shrimp.
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Flamingosi jedu rakove.
11:06
The shrimp eat the phytoplankton.
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Rakovi jedu fitoplankton.
11:08
So the pinker the belly,
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Što je stomak ružičastiji,
11:10
the better the system."
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bolji je sistem."
11:13
Okay, so let's review:
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Ok, da ponovimo.
11:15
a farm that doesn't feed its animals,
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Ribnjak koji ne hrani svoje životinje,
11:18
and a farm that measures its success
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ribnjak koji meri svoj uspeh
11:21
on the health of its predators.
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zdravljem svojih grabljivaca.
11:23
A fish farm, but also a bird sanctuary.
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Ribnjak, ali u isto vreme i utočište za ptice.
11:26
Oh, and by the way, those flamingos,
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O, da, inače oni flamingosi
11:28
they shouldn't even be there in the first place.
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ne bi ni trebalo da budu tu.
11:30
They brood in a town
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Oni se legu u jednom gradu
11:32
150 miles away,
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na 250km odatle,
11:34
where the soil conditions
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gde su uslovi tla
11:36
are better for building nests.
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bolji za pravljenje gnezda.
11:38
Every morning, they fly
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Svakog jutra oni lete
11:40
150 miles into the farm.
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250km do ribnjaka.
11:44
And every evening, they fly 150 miles back.
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I svake večeri lete 250km nazad.
11:47
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
11:54
They do that because they're able to follow
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Rade to jer mogu da prate
11:57
the broken white line
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isprekidanu belu liniju
11:59
of highway A92.
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autoputa A92.
12:01
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
12:03
No kidding.
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Bez šale.
12:05
I was imagining a "March of the Penguins" thing,
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Zamišljao sam marš pingvina,
12:08
so I looked at Miguel.
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i pogledao u Migela.
12:10
I said, "Miguel, do they fly
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Piato sam, "Migel, da li oni lete
12:12
150 miles to the farm,
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250km do ribnjaka
12:14
and then do they fly
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i onda lete
12:16
150 miles back at night?
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250km nazad noću?
12:18
Do they do that for the children?"
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Je l' rade to zbog dece?"
12:21
He looked at me like I had just quoted a Whitney Houston song.
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Pogledao me je kao da sam upravo citirao pesmu Vitni Hjuston.
12:24
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
12:28
He said, "No; they do it because the food's better."
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Rekao je, "Ne, rade to jer je hrana bolja."
12:31
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
12:33
I didn't mention the skin of my beloved fish,
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Nisam spomenuo kožu moje voljene ribe,
12:41
which was delicious -- and I don't like fish skin;
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koja je bila izvrsna, a ja ne volim riblju kožu.
12:43
I don't like it seared, I don't like it crispy.
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Ne volim je prženu. Ne volim je hrskavu.
12:46
It's that acrid, tar-like flavor.
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Zbog tog reskog ukusa, kao katran.
12:50
I almost never cook with it.
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Skoro nikada ne kuvam sa kožom.
12:53
Yet, when I tasted it at that restaurant in southern Spain,
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Ali kada sam je probao u tom restoranu u južnoj Španiji,
12:56
it tasted not at all like fish skin.
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uopšte nije imala ukus kao riblja koža.
12:59
It tasted sweet and clean,
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Bila je čistog i slatkog ukusa,
13:02
like you were taking a bite of the ocean.
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kao da jedete komad okeana.
13:05
I mentioned that to Miguel, and he nodded.
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Spomenuo sam to Migelu, on je klimnuo glavom.
13:07
He said, "The skin acts like a sponge.
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Rekao je, "Koža se ponaša kao sunđer.
13:09
It's the last defense before anything enters the body.
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To je poslednja odbrana od onoga što ulazi u telo.
13:12
It evolved to soak up impurities."
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Razvila se da upija nečistoće."
13:14
And then he added,
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I onda je dodao,
13:16
"But our water has no impurities."
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"Ali naša voda nema nečistoća."
13:22
OK. A farm that doesn't feed its fish,
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OK. Ribnjak koji ne hrani svoju ribu.
13:26
a farm that measures its success
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Ribnjak koji meri uspeh
13:29
by the success of its predators.
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uspehom svojih grabljivaca.
13:31
And then I realized when he says,
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I onda sam shvatio, kad je rekao
13:33
"A farm that has no impurities,"
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da ribnjak nema nečistoća,
13:36
he made a big understatement,
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nije baš bio u pravu,
13:38
because the water that flows through that farm
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jer voda koja teče kroz ribnjak
13:40
comes in from the Guadalquivir River.
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dolazi iz reke Gvadalkivir.
13:43
It's a river that carries with it
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Ta reka nosi sve ono
13:45
all the things that rivers tend to carry these days:
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što reke inače nose ovih dana,
13:48
chemical contaminants,
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hemijske zagađivače,
13:50
pesticide runoff.
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ostatke pesticida.
13:52
And when it works its way through the system
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A kada prođe kroz sistem
13:55
and leaves,
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i izađe,
13:57
the water is cleaner than when it entered.
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voda je čistija nego kada je ušla.
13:59
The system is so healthy, it purifies the water.
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Sistem je tako zdrav da prečišćava vodu.
14:03
So, not just a farm that doesn't feed its animals,
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Dakle, ne samo farma koja ne hrani svoje životinje,
14:05
not just a farm that measures its success
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ne samo farma koja meri svoj uspeh
14:08
by the health of its predators,
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zdravljem svojih grabljivaca,
14:10
but a farm that's literally a water purification plant --
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nego farma koja je bukvalno centrala za prečišćavanje vode,
14:16
and not just for those fish,
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i to ne samo za tu ribu,
14:19
but for you and me as well.
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nego i za vas i mene.
14:21
Because when that water leaves, it dumps out into the Atlantic.
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Jer kad ta voda ode, ona ide u Atlantik.
14:26
A drop in the ocean, I know,
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Samo kap u moru, znam,
14:28
but I'll take it, and so should you,
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ali prihvatam, a vi bi trebalo,
14:31
because this love story,
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jer ova ljubavna priča,
14:35
however romantic,
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koliko god da je romantična,
14:37
is also instructive.
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jer i poučna.
14:39
You might say it's a recipe
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Moglo bi se reći da je to recept
14:41
for the future of good food,
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za budućnost dobre hrane,
14:43
whether we're talking about bass or beef cattle.
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bilo da pričamo o grgeču ili govedini.
14:47
What we need now is
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Ono što nam je sada potrebno je
14:49
a radically new conception of agriculture,
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radikalno nova koncepcija poljoprivrede,
14:52
one in which the food actually tastes good.
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ona u kojoj hrana zaista ima dobar ukus.
14:54
(Laughter)
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(smeh)
14:56
(Applause)
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(aplauz)
15:02
But for a lot people,
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Ali za mnoge ljude
15:04
that's a bit too radical.
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to je isuviše radikalno.
15:07
We're not realists, us foodies;
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Mi ljubitelji hrane nismo realisti.
15:09
we're lovers.
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Mi smo ljubavnici.
15:11
We love farmers' markets,
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Mi volimo pijace na farmi.
15:13
we love small family farms,
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Volimo male porodične farme.
15:16
we talk about local food,
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Pričamo o lokalnoj hrani.
15:18
we eat organic.
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Jedemo organsko.
15:21
And when you suggest these are the things
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I kada kažete da su ovo stvari
15:23
that will ensure the future of good food,
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koje će obezbediti budućnost dobre hrane,
15:27
someone, somewhere stands up and says,
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neko negde ustane i kaže
15:29
"Hey guy, I love pink flamingos,
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"Hej ti, ja volim ružičaste flamingose,
15:33
but how are you going to feed the world?"
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ali kako ćeš nahraniti svet?
15:36
How are you going to feed the world?
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Kako ćeš nahraniti svet?"
15:39
Can I be honest?
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Smem li da budem iskren?
15:41
I don't love that question.
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Ne volim to pitanje.
15:44
No, not because we already produce
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Ne, ne zato što već proizvodimo
15:46
enough calories to more than feed the world.
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dovoljno kalorija da više nego prehranimo svet.
15:49
One billion people will go hungry today.
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Milijarda ljudi će danas gladovati.
15:52
One billion -- that's more than ever before --
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Milijarda - to je više nego ikada ranije -
15:56
because of gross inequalities in distribution,
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zbog ukupne nejednakosti u distribuciji,
15:59
not tonnage.
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ne u količini.
16:02
Now, I don't love this question because it's determined the logic
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Sad, ne volim to pitanje jer je odredilo logiku
16:04
of our food system for the last 50 years.
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našeg sistema hrane u poslednjih 50 godina.
16:07
Feed grain to herbivores,
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Biljojede hranite žitom,
16:10
pesticides to monocultures, chemicals to soil,
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monokulture pesticidima, tlo hemikalijama,
16:12
chicken to fish,
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ribu piletinom,
16:15
and all along agribusiness
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a svo vreme poljoprivredni biznis
16:18
has simply asked,
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jednostavno pita
16:20
"If we're feeding more people more cheaply,
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"Ako više ljudi hranimo jevtinije,
16:22
how terrible could that be?"
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koliko strašno to može da bude?"
16:25
That's been the motivation,
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To je motivacija.
16:27
it's been the justification:
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To je opravdanje.
16:29
it's been the business plan
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To je biznis plan
16:32
of American agriculture.
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američke poljoprivrede.
16:34
We should call it what it is:
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Trebalo bi da ga nazovemo pravim imenom,
16:36
a business in liquidation,
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biznis likvidacije,
16:39
a business that's quickly eroding
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biznis koji brzo urušava
16:42
ecological capital that makes that very production possible.
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ekološki kapital koji omogućava tu proizvodnju.
16:45
That's not a business,
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To nije biznis,
16:47
and it isn't agriculture.
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a nije ni poljoprivreda.
16:49
Our breadbasket is threatened today,
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Naša korpa je danas ugrožena,
16:52
not because of diminishing supply,
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ne zbog nestanka zaliha,
16:54
but because of diminishing resources.
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nego zbog propadanja izvora,
16:57
Not by the latest combine and tractor invention,
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ne zbog izuma najnovijeg kombajna i traktora,
17:00
but by fertile land;
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nego zbog plodne zemlje,
17:02
not by pumps, but by fresh water;
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ne zbog pumpi nego zbog sveže vode,
17:05
not by chainsaws, but by forests;
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ne zbog motornih testera, nego zbog šuma,
17:08
and not by fishing boats and nets, but by fish in the sea.
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i ne zbog čamaca i mreža za ribu, nego zbog ribe u moru.
17:11
Want to feed the world?
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Želite da nahranite svet?
17:13
Let's start by asking: How are we going to feed ourselves?
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Počnimo pitanjem: Kako ćemo nahraniti sebe?
17:17
Or better: How can we create conditions
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Ili bolje, kako da stvorimo uslove
17:20
that enable every community
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koji omogućavaju svakoj zajednici
17:23
to feed itself?
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da se sama hrani?
17:25
(Applause)
375
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(aplauz)
17:32
To do that,
376
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2000
Da bismo to uradili,
17:34
don't look at the agribusiness model for the future.
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ne treba da gledamo model agroprivrede za budućnost.
17:37
It's really old, and it's tired.
378
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Mnogo je star i umoran.
17:39
It's high on capital, chemistry and machines,
379
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Naduvan je kapitalom, hemijom i mašinama,
17:43
and it's never produced anything really good to eat.
380
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i nikada nije proizveo nešto dobro za jelo.
17:48
Instead, let's look to the ecological model.
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Umesto toga, pogledajmo ekološki model.
17:52
That's the one that relies on two billion years
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On se oslanja na 2 milijarde godina
17:55
of on-the-job experience.
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iskustva u praksi.
17:58
Look to Miguel,
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Pogledajte Migela,
18:00
farmers like Miguel.
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farmere kao što je on,
18:02
Farms that aren't worlds unto themselves;
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farme koje nisu svetovi za sebe,
18:05
farms that restore instead of deplete;
387
1070000
5000
farme koje obnavljaju umesto da crpe,
18:10
farms that farm extensively
388
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one koje proizvode ekstenzivno
18:12
instead of just intensively;
389
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umesto samo intenzivno,
18:14
farmers that are not just producers,
390
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farmere koji nisu samo proizvođači,
18:17
but experts in relationships.
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nego stručnjaci za veze,
18:19
Because they're the ones
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jer oni su ti
18:21
that are experts in flavor, too.
393
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koji su i stručnjaci za ukus.
18:24
And if I'm going to be really honest,
394
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I da budem stvarno iskren,
18:26
they're a better chef than I'll ever be.
395
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oni su bolji kuvari nego što ću ja ikada biti.
18:29
You know, I'm okay with that,
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Znate, to mi je ok,
18:32
because if that's the future of good food, it's going to be delicious.
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jer ako je to budućnost dobre hrane, biće izvrsna.
18:35
Thank you.
398
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Hvala vam.
18:37
(Applause)
399
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(aplauz)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Dan Barber - ChefDan Barber is a chef and a scholar -- relentlessly pursuing the stories and reasons behind the foods we grow and eat.
Why you should listen
Dan Barber is the chef at New York's Blue Hill restaurant, and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Westchester, where he practices a kind of close-to-the-land cooking married to agriculture and stewardship of the earth. As described on Chez Pim: "Stone Barns is only 45 minutes from Manhattan, but it might as well be a whole different universe. A model of self-sufficiency and environmental responsibility, Stone Barns is a working farm, ranch, and a three-Michelin-star-worthy restaurant." It's a vision of a new kind of food chain.
Barber's philosophy of food focuses on pleasure and thoughtful conservation -- on knowing where the food on your plate comes from and the unseen forces that drive what we eat. He's written on US agricultural policies, asking for a new vision that does not throw the food chain out of balance by subsidizing certain crops at the expense of more appropriate ones.
In 2009, Barber received the James Beard award for America's Outstanding Chef, and was named one of the world's most influential people in Time’s annual "Time 100" list. In 2014 he published The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food.
Dan Barber | Speaker | TED.com