Chris Burkard: The joy of surfing in ice-cold water
크리스 버카드(Chris Burkard): 얼음물 서핑의 즐거움
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
this was the face of pure joy,
완벽하게 행복한 표정이라고 한다면
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
몸이 떨릴 정도니까요.
a little bit about this photograph.
좀 해볼까 해요.
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
수영을 하고 있었는데,
right at freezing.
영하 23도 였죠.
trying to leave my hands,
손, 발, 얼굴에서 피가 빠져나와
to protect my vital organs.
움직이는게 느껴졌어요.
and cheeks flushed red,
볼은 빨개졌는데도
is somewhere I can find great joy.
곳이라는 걸 알게 됐어요.
psychologist Brock Bastian
심리학자 브록 배스쳔이
to mindfulness.
of everything in the environment.
모든 것을 의식하게 만든다.
of the world much like meditation."
사실적인 감각의식으로 이끈다."
then I would consider myself a monk.
저는 완벽한 수도승인가요?
in freezing cold water?
하겠느냐에 대해 이야기 하기 전에
a little perspective
보여드리고자 합니다.
we were hoping for good waves,
적당한 파도를 바라긴 했지만
일어나리라 생각치 못했어요.
that was going to happen.
surf photographer, right?
사진작가라고 해야 하나요?
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
직업이라 할 수 있는지 모르겠어요.
my job to pursue this dream career:
이 꿈의 직업을 하겠다고 했거든요.
and a tan that lasts all year long.
그리고 늘 군인마냥 늘 몸이 타있죠.
Life could not get any better.
삶은 없었습니다.
in these exotic tourist destinations.
서핑을 즐기는 것이죠.
to these exotic locations,
and what I was finding was only routine.
제가 한 것은 그저 평범한 일상이었죠.
and a constant cellular connection
좋은 음식을 먹는 것 뿐이었습니다.
of places heavily touristed
for me to start feeling suffocated.
others had written off
너무 멀고 춥고
and too dangerous to surf,
찾기 시작했어요.
against the mundane,
마음의 준비를 했습니다.
one thing I've realized,
as surf photography,
단조러워질수 있는 단점은
this monotony, I realized something:
저는 무언가를 발견했어요.
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
따뜻하다는 것이죠.
around the equator.
완벽한 파도를 찾아나선다면
to happen somewhere cold,
바다 어딘가 일겁니다.
하는 정확한 장소였습니다.
첫번째 여행을 떠났습니다.
exactly what I was looking for.
정확히 발견했죠.
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
we were finding perfect waves
완벽한 파도를 찾았다는 것입니다.
part of the world.
had piled on the shoreline.
볼 수 있었습니다.
between us and the surf,
장애물이었습니다.
through this thing like a maze
없었습니다.
trying to get into waves.
한쪽으로 밀어냈습니다.
one I'll never forget,
one of the last quiet places,
우연히 만난 것 같았기 때문이죠.
and a connection with the world
on a crowded beach.
찾지 않을 것이라는 걸 알았습니다.
그러한 환경에 도전하는 것에
and unforgiving environments,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
아이슬란드, 칠레같은 나라를 찾아다녔죠.
and a lot of places in between.
그리고 그 사이의 무수한 섬들.
about these places
the creativity it took just to get there:
구글 지도로 찾아다니죠.
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
the vehicles were just as creative:
운송수단은 거의 발명품이죠.
Soviet troop carriers,
helicopter flights.
bumpy boat ride
to this kind of remote surf spot,
가기 위했던 거죠.
helplessly from the water
and bits of our tent,
떠나갔어요.
were at the bottom of the food chain
우리가 가장 약자라는 것을요.
우리 것이 아니었어요.
I traded for those touristy beaches.
야생의 증언이었습니다.
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
(웃음)
to appreciate the cold.
the most violent storms in the world
악랄한 번개가 있습니다.
into the coastline.
just inside the Arctic Circle.
이 작고 먼 협만에 있었습니다.
of sheep than people,
was nowhere to be found.
없었습니다.
taking pictures of surfers,
you're getting out of the water.
물밖으로 나갈 수가 없다고.
exactly what you've been waiting for:
바로 이것이 네가 기다리던 것이다."
with perfect waves.
my finger to push the trigger,
I shook it off, whatever.
the valley and hit me,
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
돌변했습니다.
perception of where I was.
out to sea or towards shore,
was the faint sound of seagulls
희미한 갈매기 소리였습니다.
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
명성을 얻게 된 이유를 알았죠.
I started to get a little bit nervous.
약간 긴장하고 있었습니다.
borderline hypothermic,
저는 저체온증에 걸린 것 같았고
had to help me out of the water.
꺼내야만 했습니다.
delirium setting in or what,
알지 못하지만
where I really began to feel
it was something I was forced to earn.
있는 것이기 때문이죠.
had actually taught me something:
없다는 것을 알았습니다.
is going to require us to suffer
과정의 고통은 필수입니다.
제 사진을 위한 것이고요.
that I did for my photography,
that was so much more meaningful to me
귀한 가치를 얻습니다.
the pages of magazines.
가치를 뛰어넘죠.
in these places,
I had always been searching for.
그 성취감이었습니다.
and cold wetsuits
보는 건 쉽습니다.
that it took just to get there,
가는 것도 그렇게 어렵지 않습니다.
what I see is just joy.
즐거움이었습니다.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Chris Burkard - Surf photographerChris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head.
Why you should listen
For most people, surfing evokes sunny sand and warm, blue water in tropical locales. In his book Distant Shores, self-taught photographer Chris Burkard detours to the coastlines of Norway, Iceland and Alaska, shooting surfers as they ride waves on icy beaches that have rarely been photographed -- let alone surfed.
Traveling to often dangerous extremes to discover unknown landscapes, Burkard composes images that transcend the simple action shots of action photography, placing nature at the center of his compositions.
Chris Burkard | Speaker | TED.com