TED2015
Chris Burkard: The joy of surfing in ice-cold water
Chris Burkard: Radosť zo surfovania v ľadovej vode
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„Všetko, za čím stojí zato ísť, vyžaduje trochu utrpenia,“ hovorí fotograf surfistov Chris Burkard, keď vysvetľuje svoju vášeň pre tie najstudenšie, najdivokejšie a najizolovanejšie pláže planéty. Strhujúcimi fotografiami a príbehmi z miest, ktoré videlo málo ľudských očí a ešte menej surfistov, nás vtiahne do svojho osobného boja proti rutine.
Chris Burkard - Surf photographer
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Chris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:13
So if I told you that
this was the face of pure joy,
this was the face of pure joy,
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Ak vám poviem, že toto je
výraz dokonalého šťastia,
výraz dokonalého šťastia,
00:19
would you call me crazy?
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poviete, že som blázon?
00:22
I wouldn't blame you,
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Nedávam vám to za vinu,
00:23
because every time I look at this
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.
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lebo vždy, keď vidím túto selfie
z Akrtídy, sa trochu strasiem.
z Akrtídy, sa trochu strasiem.
00:28
I want to tell you
a little bit about this photograph.
a little bit about this photograph.
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Chcem vám niečo o tejto
fotografii porozprávať.
fotografii porozprávať.
00:31
I was swimming around
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,
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Plával som na Lofotských
ostrovoch v Nórsku
ostrovoch v Nórsku
00:35
just inside the Arctic Circle,
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v Severnom polárnom kruhu
00:37
and the water was hovering
right at freezing.
right at freezing.
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a voda zamŕzala.
00:40
The air? A brisk -10 with windchill,
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Vzduch? Silný ľadový vietor a -10 °C .
00:44
and I could literally feel the blood
trying to leave my hands,
trying to leave my hands,
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Doslova som cítil, ako
mi krv odchádzala z rúk,
mi krv odchádzala z rúk,
00:47
feet and face, and rush
to protect my vital organs.
to protect my vital organs.
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nôh a tváre v snahe rýchlo
zachrániť životne dôležité orgány.
zachrániť životne dôležité orgány.
00:52
It was the coldest I've ever been.
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Nikdy som nebol na studenšom mieste.
00:55
But even with swollen lips, sunken eyes,
and cheeks flushed red,
and cheeks flushed red,
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Ale aj napriek napuchnutým perám,
skleslým očiam a červeným lícam
skleslým očiam a červeným lícam
00:59
I have found that this place right here
is somewhere I can find great joy.
is somewhere I can find great joy.
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cítim, že je to miesto, kde
môžem nájsť veľké šťastie.
môžem nájsť veľké šťastie.
01:06
Now, when it comes to pain,
psychologist Brock Bastian
psychologist Brock Bastian
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Čo sa týka bolesti,
psychológ Brock Bastian
psychológ Brock Bastian
01:09
probably said it best when he wrote,
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to asi povedal lepšie, keď napísal:
„Bolesť je niečo ako
skratka vedúca k úplnej pozornosti.
skratka vedúca k úplnej pozornosti.
01:11
"Pain is a kind of shortcut
to mindfulness.
to mindfulness.
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Robí nás vedomých si všetkého naokolo.
01:14
It makes us suddenly aware
of everything in the environment.
of everything in the environment.
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01:18
It brutally draws us in
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Brutálne nás priťahuje
01:20
to a virtual sensory awareness
of the world much like meditation."
of the world much like meditation."
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k úplnému zmyslovému vnímaniu
sveta rovnako ako meditácia.“
sveta rovnako ako meditácia.“
01:25
If shivering is a form of meditation,
then I would consider myself a monk.
then I would consider myself a monk.
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Ak je trasenie sa forma meditácie,
potom sa považujem za mnícha.
potom sa považujem za mnícha.
01:28
(Laughter)
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(smiech)
01:29
Now, before we get into the why
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Skôr než vysvetlím,
01:32
would anyone ever want to surf
in freezing cold water?
in freezing cold water?
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prečo niekto chce surfovať v ľadovej vode,
01:35
I would love to give you
a little perspective
a little perspective
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by som vám chcel priblížiť,
01:38
on what a day in my life can look like.
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ako môže vyzerať jeden môj deň.
01:41
(Music)
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(hudba)
02:28
(Video) Man: I mean, I know
we were hoping for good waves,
we were hoping for good waves,
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(video) Muž: Čakali sme na dobré vlny,
02:31
but I don't think anybody thought
that was going to happen.
that was going to happen.
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ale nemyslím si, že niekto
očakával, že prídu.
očakával, že prídu.
02:34
I can't stop shaking.
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Nemôžem sa prestať triasť.
02:36
I am so cold.
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Je mi hrozná zima.
02:40
(Music)
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(hudba)
02:43
(Applause)
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(potlesk)
02:48
Chris Burkard: So,
surf photographer, right?
surf photographer, right?
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Chris Burkard: Fotograf surfistov, však?
02:51
I don't even know
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
if it's a real job title, to be honest.
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Pravdupovediac ani neviem,
či je to naozaj povolanie.
či je to naozaj povolanie.
02:54
My parents definitely didn't think so
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Moji rodičia si to určite nemyseli,
02:56
when I told them at 19 I was quitting
my job to pursue this dream career:
my job to pursue this dream career:
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keď som im v 19 povedal, že odchádzam
z práce, aby som mohol ísť za svojím snom:
z práce, aby som mohol ísť za svojím snom:
03:01
blue skies, warm tropical beaches,
and a tan that lasts all year long.
and a tan that lasts all year long.
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modrá obloha, horúce tropické pláže,
opálené telo po celý rok.
opálené telo po celý rok.
03:06
I mean, to me, this was it.
Life could not get any better.
Life could not get any better.
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Chcem povedať, pre mňa to bolo všetkým.
Nemohol som žiť šťastnejšie.
Nemohol som žiť šťastnejšie.
03:10
Sweating it out, shooting surfers
in these exotic tourist destinations.
in these exotic tourist destinations.
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Potil som sa a fotil som surfistov
v exotickým turistických destináciách.
v exotickým turistických destináciách.
03:14
But there was just this one problem.
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Mal som iba jeden problém.
03:16
You see, the more time I spent traveling
to these exotic locations,
to these exotic locations,
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Čím viac som cestoval
na tieto exotické miesta,
na tieto exotické miesta,
03:20
the less gratifying it seemed to be.
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tým menej ma napĺňali.
03:23
I set out seeking adventure,
and what I was finding was only routine.
and what I was finding was only routine.
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Zaumienil som si hľadať dobrodružstvá,
ale nachádzal som iba rutinu.
ale nachádzal som iba rutinu.
03:27
It was things like wi-fi, TV, fine dining,
and a constant cellular connection
and a constant cellular connection
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Wifi, televízia, reštaurácie
a nepretržité mobilné spojenie
a nepretržité mobilné spojenie
boli pôžitky miest plných turistov
03:32
that to me were all the trappings
of places heavily touristed
of places heavily touristed
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03:35
in and out of the water,
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vo vode aj mimo nej.
03:37
and it didn't take long
for me to start feeling suffocated.
for me to start feeling suffocated.
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Skoro som sa začal cítiť stiesnený.
03:43
I began craving wild, open spaces,
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Začal som túžiť po voľných
divokých priestranstvách,
divokých priestranstvách,
03:47
and so I set out to find the places
others had written off
others had written off
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a tak som sa dal do hľadania
miest, ktoré ostatní zavrhli
miest, ktoré ostatní zavrhli
03:50
as too cold, too remote,
and too dangerous to surf,
and too dangerous to surf,
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pre prílišný chlad, diaľku alebo
nebezpečenstvo pre surfovanie,
nebezpečenstvo pre surfovanie,
03:54
and that challenge intrigued me.
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a táto výzva ma zaujala.
03:57
I began this sort of personal crusade
against the mundane,
against the mundane,
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Začal som tento osobný boj proti rutine,
04:01
because if there's
one thing I've realized,
one thing I've realized,
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lebo ak som si niečo uvedomil, tak to,
04:04
it's that any career,
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že každej kariére,
04:05
even one as seemingly glamorous
as surf photography,
as surf photography,
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dokonca aj kariére tak zdanlivo úspešnej
ako je fotografovanie surfistov,
ako je fotografovanie surfistov,
04:09
has the danger of becoming monotonous.
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hrozí, že sa premení na rutinu.
Pri hľadaní, ako sa jej zbaviť,
som si uvedomil,
som si uvedomil,
04:12
So in my search to break up
this monotony, I realized something:
this monotony, I realized something:
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04:15
There's only about a third
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
of the Earth's oceans that are warm,
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že iba asi tretina
svetového oceánu je teplá,
svetového oceánu je teplá,
04:18
and it's really just that thin band
around the equator.
around the equator.
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a to ten naozaj úzky pás okolo rovníka.
04:21
So if I was going to find perfect waves,
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Takže ak som mal nájsť dokonalé vlny,
04:24
it was probably going
to happen somewhere cold,
to happen somewhere cold,
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pravdepodobne sa to malo stať
na nejakom studenom
na nejakom studenom
04:26
where the seas are notoriously rough,
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mieste, kde sú moria divoké,
04:28
and that's exactly where I began to look.
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a presne tam som začal hľadať.
Na mojej prvej ceste na Island
04:31
And it was my first trip to Iceland
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04:33
that I felt like I found
exactly what I was looking for.
exactly what I was looking for.
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som pocítil, že som našiel
presne to, čo som hľadal.
presne to, čo som hľadal.
04:36
I was blown away
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
by the natural beauty of the landscape,
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Prirodzená krása prírody ma ohromila.
04:40
but most importantly, I couldn't believe
we were finding perfect waves
we were finding perfect waves
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To najdôležitejšie je, že som nemohol
uveriť, že som našiel dokonalé vlny
uveriť, že som našiel dokonalé vlny
04:44
in such a remote and rugged
part of the world.
part of the world.
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v takej vzdialenej
a nepokojnej končine sveta.
a nepokojnej končine sveta.
04:47
At one point, we got to the beach
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V jeden deň sme prišli na pláž
04:49
only to find massive chunks of ice
had piled on the shoreline.
had piled on the shoreline.
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a našli sme tam nakopené
obrovské kusy ľadu.
obrovské kusy ľadu.
04:53
They created this barrier
between us and the surf,
between us and the surf,
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Vytvorili medzi nami a príbojom bariéru
04:55
and we had to weave
through this thing like a maze
through this thing like a maze
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a museli sme si v tom labyrinte
04:57
just to get out into the lineup.
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preraziť cestu k vode.
04:59
and once we got there,
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Kusy ľadu sme
05:00
we were pushing aside these ice chunks
trying to get into waves.
trying to get into waves.
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naukladali na jednu stranu,
aby sme sa dostali k vlnám.
aby sme sa dostali k vlnám.
05:03
It was an incredible experience,
one I'll never forget,
one I'll never forget,
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Bol to neskutočný zážitok,
na ktorý nikdy nezabudnem,
na ktorý nikdy nezabudnem,
05:07
because amidst those harsh conditions,
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lebo uprostred týchto tvrdých podmienok
05:10
I felt like I stumbled onto
one of the last quiet places,
one of the last quiet places,
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som pocítil, že som narazil na jedno
z posledných pokojných zákutí planéty,
z posledných pokojných zákutí planéty,
05:14
somewhere that I found a clarity
and a connection with the world
and a connection with the world
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kde som našiel pokoj a spojenie so svetom,
05:17
I knew I would never find
on a crowded beach.
on a crowded beach.
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ktoré by som nikdy nebol
našiel na pláži plnej ľudí.
našiel na pláži plnej ľudí.
05:22
I was hooked. I was hooked. (Laughter)
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Stal som sa závislým. (smiech)
05:25
Cold water was constantly on my mind,
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Nemohol som prestať
myslieť na studenú vodu
myslieť na studenú vodu
05:28
and from that point on,
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a od tej chvíle
05:29
my career focused on these types of harsh
and unforgiving environments,
and unforgiving environments,
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sa moja kariéra upriamila na tieto
nehostinné a kruté končiny
nehostinné a kruté končiny
05:32
and it took me to places like Russia,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,
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a zaviedla ma na miesta ako Rusko,
Nórsko, Aljaška, Island, Čile,
Nórsko, Aljaška, Island, Čile,
05:36
the Faroe Islands,
and a lot of places in between.
and a lot of places in between.
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Faerské ostrovy a mnohé medzizastávky.
05:39
And one of my favorite things
about these places
about these places
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Na týchto miestach sa mi páčila
05:42
was simply the challenge and
the creativity it took just to get there:
the creativity it took just to get there:
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výzva a tvorivosť, ktorú si
vyžadovalo dostať sa tam.
vyžadovalo dostať sa tam.
05:46
hours, days, weeks spent on Google Earth
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Hodiny, dni, týždne s Google Earth
05:48
trying to pinpoint any remote stretch
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
of beach or reef we could actually get to.
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hľadajúc akýkoľvek vzdialený kúsok pláže
alebo útesu, na ktorý by sa dalo dostať.
alebo útesu, na ktorý by sa dalo dostať.
05:53
And once we got there,
the vehicles were just as creative:
the vehicles were just as creative:
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A keď sme tam prišli, spôsob dopravy
bol veľmi tvorivý: snežné skútre,
bol veľmi tvorivý: snežné skútre,
05:56
snowmobiles, six-wheel
Soviet troop carriers,
Soviet troop carriers,
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autá so 6 kolesami
na prevoz sovietskych vojsk
na prevoz sovietskych vojsk
05:59
and a couple of super-sketchy
helicopter flights.
helicopter flights.
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a zopár improvizovaných letov vrtuľníkom.
06:03
(Laughter)
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(smiech)
06:05
Helicopters really scare me, by the way.
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Vrtuľníky mi naozaj naháňajú strach.
Išli sme na lodi plnej
výtlkov až na pobrežie
výtlkov až na pobrežie
06:08
There was this one particularly
bumpy boat ride
bumpy boat ride
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06:11
up the coast of Vancouver Island
to this kind of remote surf spot,
to this kind of remote surf spot,
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ostrova Vancouver surfovať až
na toto vzdialené miesto,
na toto vzdialené miesto,
06:14
where we ended up watching
helplessly from the water
helplessly from the water
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kde sme bezmocne z vody pozorovali,
06:16
as bears ravaged our camp site.
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ako nám medvede zničili tábor.
06:19
They walked off with our food
and bits of our tent,
and bits of our tent,
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Začali naším jedlom a kúskami stanu
a dali nám najavo, že sme
na spodku potravového reťazca
na spodku potravového reťazca
06:22
clearly letting us know that we
were at the bottom of the food chain
were at the bottom of the food chain
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06:25
and that this was their spot, not ours.
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a že to je ich miesto, nie naše.
06:27
But to me, that trip
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Ale pre mňa bola táto cesta
06:29
was a testament to the wildness
I traded for those touristy beaches.
I traded for those touristy beaches.
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svedectvom o tom, že som vymenil
turistické pláže za divočinu.
turistické pláže za divočinu.
Až v Nórsku
06:36
Now, it wasn't until I traveled
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
to Norway -- (Laughter) --
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(smiech)
06:40
that I really learned
to appreciate the cold.
to appreciate the cold.
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som sa naozaj naučil oceniť chlad.
06:44
So this is the place
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Práve tu
06:46
where some of the largest,
the most violent storms in the world
the most violent storms in the world
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niektoré z najväčších a najsilnejších
búrok na svete
búrok na svete
06:49
send huge waves smashing
into the coastline.
into the coastline.
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lámu o pobrežie obrovské vlny.
06:52
We were in this tiny, remote fjord,
just inside the Arctic Circle.
just inside the Arctic Circle.
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Boli sme v tomto malom vzdialenom fjorde
hneď pod Severným polárnym kruhom.
hneď pod Severným polárnym kruhom.
06:56
It had a greater population
of sheep than people,
of sheep than people,
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Žije tam viac oviec ako ľudí,
06:59
so help if we needed it
was nowhere to be found.
was nowhere to be found.
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ak by sme boli potrebovali pomoc,
nenašli by sme ju tam.
nenašli by sme ju tam.
07:02
I was in the water
taking pictures of surfers,
taking pictures of surfers,
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Vo vode som fotil surfistov
07:05
and it started to snow.
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a začalo snežiť.
07:08
And then the temperature began to drop.
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Teplota začala klesať.
07:12
And I told myself, there's not a chance
you're getting out of the water.
you're getting out of the water.
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Povedal som si, že nemôžem vyjsť z vody.
07:15
You traveled all this way, and this is
exactly what you've been waiting for:
exactly what you've been waiting for:
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Cestoval si až sem a toto
je presne to, čo si si prial:
je presne to, čo si si prial:
ľadové podmienky s dokonalými vlnami.
07:19
freezing cold conditions
with perfect waves.
with perfect waves.
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07:21
And although I couldn't even feel
my finger to push the trigger,
my finger to push the trigger,
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Aj keď som pre chlad nemohol
ani stlačiť tlačidlo fotoaparátu,
ani stlačiť tlačidlo fotoaparátu,
07:24
I knew I wasn't getting out.
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vedel som, že nemôžem vyjsť.
07:26
So I just did whatever I could.
I shook it off, whatever.
I shook it off, whatever.
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Urobil som, čo som mohol.
Dostal som sa z toho.
Dostal som sa z toho.
07:28
But that was the point that I felt
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Vtedy som pocítil
07:30
this wind gush through
the valley and hit me,
the valley and hit me,
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vietor z údolia,
ktorý mi búšil do tváre,
ktorý mi búšil do tváre,
07:32
and what started as this light snowfall
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
quickly became a full-on blizzard,
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a to, čo začalo ako slabé sneženie,
sa premenilo na silnú víchricu.
sa premenilo na silnú víchricu.
07:38
and I started to lose
perception of where I was.
perception of where I was.
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Začal som strácať pojem o tom, kde som.
07:42
I didn't know if I was drifting
out to sea or towards shore,
out to sea or towards shore,
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Neviem, či ma unášalo
na more alebo k brehu,
na more alebo k brehu,
07:46
and all I could really make out
was the faint sound of seagulls
was the faint sound of seagulls
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bol som schopný rozlíšiť
iba slabý zvuk čajok
iba slabý zvuk čajok
07:50
and crashing waves.
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a vĺn.
07:52
Now, I knew this place had a reputation
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
for sinking ships and grounding planes,
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Vedel som, že to miesto bolo známe
stroskotaniami lodí a leteckými haváriami,
stroskotaniami lodí a leteckými haváriami,
07:57
and while I was out there floating,
I started to get a little bit nervous.
I started to get a little bit nervous.
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a, kým som sa vznášal na hladine,
začal som byť trochu nervózny.
začal som byť trochu nervózny.
08:02
Actually, I was totally freaking out --
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V skutočnosti som úplne prichádzal o rozum
08:04
(Laughter) -- and I was
borderline hypothermic,
borderline hypothermic,
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(smiech)
na pokraji podchladenia
na pokraji podchladenia
08:08
and my friends eventually
had to help me out of the water.
had to help me out of the water.
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a moji kamaráti mi nakoniec
museli pomôcť vyjsť z vody.
museli pomôcť vyjsť z vody.
08:11
And I don't know if it was
delirium setting in or what,
delirium setting in or what,
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Neviem, či som blúznil,
08:14
but they told me later
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ale neskôr mi povedali,
08:16
I had a smile on my face the entire time.
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že som mal po celý čas na tvári úsmev.
08:22
Now, it was this trip
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Na tejto ceste
08:24
and probably that exact experience
where I really began to feel
where I really began to feel
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a možno presne pri tomto zážitku
som naozaj začal cítiť,
som naozaj začal cítiť,
08:28
like every photograph was precious,
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že každá fotografia je cenná,
08:32
because all of a sudden in that moment,
it was something I was forced to earn.
it was something I was forced to earn.
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lebo zrazu, v tej chvíli,
som ju musel urobiť.
som ju musel urobiť.
08:37
And I realized, all this shivering
had actually taught me something:
had actually taught me something:
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Uvedomil som si, že všetky
tie triašky ma naučili,
tie triašky ma naučili,
08:42
In life, there are no shortcuts to joy.
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že v živote neexistujú skratky ku šťastiu.
Všetko, za čím stojí zato ísť,
si vyžaduje trošku utrpenia,
si vyžaduje trošku utrpenia,
08:47
Anything that is worth pursuing
is going to require us to suffer
is going to require us to suffer
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08:50
just a little bit,
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iba trošku,
08:52
and that tiny bit of suffering
that I did for my photography,
that I did for my photography,
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a tá troška utrpenia pre moju fotku
08:56
it added a value to my work
that was so much more meaningful to me
that was so much more meaningful to me
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pridala mojej práci hodnotu
pre mňa oveľa dôležitejšiu
pre mňa oveľa dôležitejšiu
08:59
than just trying to fill
the pages of magazines.
the pages of magazines.
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ako iba zaplniť stránky časopisov.
09:03
See, I gave a piece of myself
in these places,
in these places,
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Pozrite, na tých miestach
som nechal kúsok zo mňa
som nechal kúsok zo mňa
09:10
and what I walked away with
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a keď som z nich odišiel,
09:12
was a sense of fulfillment
I had always been searching for.
I had always been searching for.
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mal som pocit naplnenia,
ktorý som vždy hľadal.
ktorý som vždy hľadal.
09:18
So I look back at this photograph.
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Hľadím spätne na túto fotografiu
09:21
It's easy to see frozen fingers
and cold wetsuits
and cold wetsuits
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a vidím zamrznuté prsty
a studené neoprénové obleky,
a studené neoprénové obleky,
09:26
and even the struggle
that it took just to get there,
that it took just to get there,
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a dokonca boj, ktorý
predstavovala cesta tam,
predstavovala cesta tam,
09:29
but most of all,
what I see is just joy.
what I see is just joy.
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ale hlavne vidím radosť.
09:33
Thank you so much.
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Ďakujem pekne.
09:35
(Applause)
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(potlesk)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Chris Burkard - Surf photographerChris Burkard travels to remote, risky and often icy locations to capture stunning images that turn traditional surf photography on its head.
Why you should listen
For most people, surfing evokes sunny sand and warm, blue water in tropical locales. In his book Distant Shores, self-taught photographer Chris Burkard detours to the coastlines of Norway, Iceland and Alaska, shooting surfers as they ride waves on icy beaches that have rarely been photographed -- let alone surfed.
Traveling to often dangerous extremes to discover unknown landscapes, Burkard composes images that transcend the simple action shots of action photography, placing nature at the center of his compositions.
Chris Burkard | Speaker | TED.com