TED2011
Suzanne Lee: Grow your own clothes
Suzanne Lee: Uzgojite vlastitu odjeću
Filmed:
Readability: 4.1
1,519,065 views
Dizajnerica Suzanne Lee priča o svom eksperimentu uzgoja materijala baziranog na kombući koji se može koristiti kao tkanina ili koža nastala od povrća za izradu odjeće. Proces je zaprepašćujući, rezultati predivni (iako postoji manji nedostatak...) a potencijal je jednostavno iznenađujući.
Suzanne Lee - Designer
TED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes. Full bio
TED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
So as a fashion designer,
0
0
2000
Kao modni dizajner
00:17
I've always tended to think of materials
1
2000
2000
oduvijek sam razmišljala o materijalima da su
00:19
something like this,
2
4000
2000
nešto kao ovaj,
00:21
or this,
3
6000
3000
ili ovaj
00:24
or maybe this.
4
9000
3000
ili možda ovaj.
00:27
But then I met a biologist,
5
12000
3000
Ali onda sam srela biologa,
00:30
and now I think of materials like this --
6
15000
3000
te sada o materijalima razmišljam da su -
00:33
green tea, sugar,
7
18000
2000
zeleni čaj, šećer,
00:35
a few microbes and a little time.
8
20000
3000
nekoliko mikroba i malo vemena.
00:38
I'm essentially using a kombucha recipe,
9
23000
2000
U osnovi koristim recept za kombuću,
00:40
which is a symbiotic mix
10
25000
2000
što predstavlja simbiotički miks
00:42
of bacteria, yeasts and other micro-organisms,
11
27000
3000
bakterija, kvasaca i drugih mikro organizama,
00:45
which spin cellulose
12
30000
2000
koji proizvode celulozu
00:47
in a fermentation process.
13
32000
3000
u procesu fermentacije.
00:50
Over time, these tiny threads
14
35000
2000
Tokom vremena, ove male niti
00:52
form in the liquid into layers
15
37000
2000
nastale u tečnosti se pretvaraju u slojeve
00:54
and produce a mat on the surface.
16
39000
3000
i kreiraju sloj na površini.
00:59
So we start by brewing the tea.
17
44000
2000
Počinjenom pravljenjem čaja.
01:01
I brew up to about 30 liters of tea at a time,
18
46000
3000
Napravim oko 30 litara čaja,
01:04
and then while it's still hot, add a couple of kilos of sugar.
19
49000
3000
i dok je još topao, dodam dvije kile šećera.
01:07
We stir this in until it's completely dissolved
20
52000
3000
Mješamo čaj dok se šećer ne rastopi u potpunosti
01:10
and then pour it into a growth bath.
21
55000
2000
i onda sve to izlijemo u kadu za uzgoj.
01:12
We need to check that the temperature
22
57000
2000
Moramo provjeriti da se temperatura
01:14
has cooled to below 30 degrees C.
23
59000
3000
snizila ispod 30 stepeni C.
01:17
And then we're ready to add the living organism.
24
62000
2000
I onda smo spremni da dodamo žive organizme,
01:19
And along with that, some acetic acid.
25
64000
2000
zajedno sa acetatnom kiselinom.
01:21
And once you get this process going,
26
66000
2000
I kada pokrenete ovaj proces
01:23
you can actually recycle
27
68000
2000
možete zapravo reciklirati
01:25
your previous fermented liquid.
28
70000
3000
tečnost koju ste prethodno koristili.
01:28
We need to maintain an optimum temperature for the growth.
29
73000
3000
Moramo održati optimalnu temperaturu za rast.
01:31
And I use a heat mat to sit the bath on
30
76000
3000
Ja koristim podmetač na električno grijanje da postavim posudu sa rastvorom
01:34
and a thermostat to regulate it.
31
79000
2000
i termostat da reguliše toplotu
01:36
And actually, in hot weather, I can just grow it outside.
32
81000
3000
I zapravo dok je toplo mogu i uzgajati napolju.
01:39
So this is my mini fabric farm.
33
84000
2000
Tako da je ovo moja mini farma tkanine.
01:41
After about three days,
34
86000
2000
Nakon oko tri dana,
01:43
the bubbles will appear on the surface of the liquid.
35
88000
3000
mjehurići će se pojaviti na površini tečnosti.
01:46
So this is telling us that the fermentation is in full swing.
36
91000
3000
To nam govori da je fermentacija u punom jeku.
01:49
And the bacteria are feeding
37
94000
2000
Bakterije se hrane
01:51
on the sugar nutrients in the liquid.
38
96000
2000
šećerom iz tečnosti.
01:53
So they're spinning these tiny nano fibers
39
98000
2000
Nastavljajući da predu ova tanka, nano vlakna
01:55
of pure cellulose.
40
100000
2000
čiste celuloze.
01:57
And they're sticking together, forming layers
41
102000
2000
One se lijepe jedna za drugu, stvarajući slojeve
01:59
and giving us a sheet on the surface.
42
104000
2000
i dajući nam list na površini.
02:01
After about two to three weeks,
43
106000
2000
Nakon oko dvije do tri sedmice,
02:03
we're looking at something which is about an inch in thickness.
44
108000
3000
dobijemo sloj debljine jednog inča.
02:06
So the bath on the left is after five days,
45
111000
3000
Posuda lijevo pokazuje šta se dobije nakon pet dana,
02:09
and on the right, after 10.
46
114000
2000
a posuda desno nakon deset.
02:11
And this is a static culture.
47
116000
2000
A ovo je statična kultura.
02:13
You don't have to do anything to it;
48
118000
2000
Ne morate ništa da radite sa njom;
02:15
you just literally watch it grow.
49
120000
2000
samo je gledate kako raste.
02:17
It doesn't need light.
50
122000
2000
Ne treba svjetlost.
02:19
And when it's ready to harvest, you take it out of the bath
51
124000
3000
A kada je spremna, izvadite je iz posude
02:22
and you wash it in cold, soapy water.
52
127000
2000
i operete u hladnoj sapunjavoj vodi.
02:24
At this point, it's really heavy.
53
129000
2000
U ovom trenutku, jako je teška.
02:26
It's over 90 percent water,
54
131000
2000
Preko 90 procenata je voda,
02:28
so we need to let that evaporate.
55
133000
2000
tako da moramo da je ostavimo da voda ispari.
02:30
So I spread it out onto a wooden sheet.
56
135000
2000
Ja je postavim na drvenu podlogu.
02:32
Again, you can do that outside
57
137000
2000
I ovo možete uraditi napolju
02:34
and just let it dry in the air.
58
139000
2000
i jednostavno je ostavite da se osuši na zraku.
02:36
And as it's drying, it's compressing,
59
141000
2000
Dok se suši, ona se i skuplja,
02:38
so what you're left with, depending on the recipe,
60
143000
2000
tako da ono što ostane zavisno od recepta,
02:40
is something that's either
61
145000
2000
je nešto nalik
02:42
like a really light-weight, transparent paper,
62
147000
2000
jako tankog providnog papira,
02:44
or something which is much more like a flexible vegetable leather.
63
149000
4000
ili nešto što više liči na savitljivu kožu dobijenu od povrća.
02:48
And then you can either cut that out
64
153000
2000
I onda možete ili rezati
02:50
and sew it conventionally,
65
155000
2000
ili šiti tradicionalno,
02:52
or you can use the wet material
66
157000
2000
ili možete koristiti mokri materijal
02:54
to form it around a three-dimensional shape.
67
159000
3000
da ga oblikujete oko trodimenzionalnog oblika
02:57
And as it evaporates,
68
162000
2000
I dok se suši,
02:59
it will knit itself together, forming seams.
69
164000
2000
sam će se krojiti, formirajući porube.
03:01
So the color in this jacket is coming purely from green tea.
70
166000
3000
Boja ove jakne dolazi od zelenog čaja.
03:04
I guess it also looks a little bit like human skin,
71
169000
2000
Malo izgleda kao ljudska koža,
03:06
which intrigues me.
72
171000
3000
što me intrigira.
03:09
Since it's organic,
73
174000
2000
Pošto je organski,
03:11
I'm really keen to try and minimize the addition of any chemicals.
74
176000
3000
pokušavam da minimaliziram upotrebu bilo kakvih hemikalija.
03:14
I can make it change color without using dye
75
179000
3000
Mogu učiniti da promjeni boju bez korištenja boje
03:17
by a process of iron oxidation.
76
182000
2000
kroz proces željezne oksidacije.
03:19
Using fruit and vegetable staining,
77
184000
2000
Koristeći boje iz voća i povrća,
03:21
create organic patterning.
78
186000
2000
kreirajući organske uzorke.
03:23
And using indigo,
79
188000
2000
I koristeći indigo,
03:25
make it anti-microbial.
80
190000
2000
čineći ga anti mikrobski.
03:27
And in fact, cotton
81
192000
2000
Ustvari, pamuk
03:29
would take up to 18 dips in indigo
82
194000
3000
bi trebalo zamočiti 18 puta u indigo
03:32
to achieve a color this dark.
83
197000
2000
da se postigne boja ovako tamna.
03:34
And because of the super-absorbency of this kind of cellulose,
84
199000
3000
A zbog super apsorpcije ove vrste celuloze
03:37
it just takes one, and a really short one at that.
85
202000
3000
potrebno je da se potopi samo jedanput, nakratko.
03:40
What I can't yet do is make it water-resistant.
86
205000
3000
Ono što još ne mogu uraditi je učiniti je vodootpornom.
03:43
So if I was to walk outside in the rain
87
208000
3000
Ako bih izašla vani na kišu
03:46
wearing this dress today,
88
211000
2000
noseći ovu haljinu
03:48
I would immediately start to absorb
89
213000
2000
odmah bih počela apsorbirati
03:50
huge amounts of water.
90
215000
3000
velike količine vode.
03:53
The dress would get really heavy,
91
218000
2000
Haljina bi postala jako teška
03:55
and eventually the seams would probably fall apart --
92
220000
2000
i na kraju bi se vjerovatno raspala -
03:57
leaving me feeling rather naked.
93
222000
2000
ostavaljajući me posve golu.
03:59
Possibly a good performance piece,
94
224000
2000
Vjerovatno je dobar komad za izvedbe,
04:01
but definitely not ideal for everyday wear.
95
226000
3000
ali definitnivno nije za svaki dan.
04:05
What I'm looking for
96
230000
2000
Ono što tražim
04:07
is a way to give the material
97
232000
2000
je način da dam ovom materijalu
04:09
the qualities that I need.
98
234000
2000
kvalitete koje želim.
04:11
So what I want to do is say to a future bug,
99
236000
3000
Ono što želim je da kažem budućoj bubi,
04:14
"Spin me a thread.
100
239000
2000
"Izvezi mi nit.
04:16
Align it in this direction.
101
241000
2000
Poravnaj u ovom pravcu.
04:18
Make it hydrophobic.
102
243000
2000
Učini je hidrofobnom.
04:20
And while you're at it,
103
245000
2000
I dok to radiš,
04:22
just form it around this 3D shape."
104
247000
3000
napravi je oko ovog trodimenzionalnog oblika."
04:25
Bacterial cellulose is actually already being used for wound healing,
105
250000
4000
Bakteriološka celuloza se već koristi u zalječenju rana,
04:29
and possibly in the future
106
254000
2000
a moguće u budućnosti
04:31
for biocompatible blood vessels,
107
256000
3000
i za bio-kompatibilne krvne sudove,
04:34
possibly even replacement bone tissue.
108
259000
2000
a čak i za zamjenu koštanog tkiva.
04:36
But with synthetic biology,
109
261000
2000
Ali uz sintetičku biologiju,
04:38
we can actually imagine engineering this bacterium
110
263000
4000
možemo zapravo učiniti da ova bakterija
04:42
to produce something
111
267000
2000
napravi nešto
04:44
that gives us the quality,
112
269000
2000
što nam daje kvalitet,
04:46
quantity and shape
113
271000
2000
kvantitet i oblik
04:48
of material that we desire.
114
273000
2000
materijala koji želimo.
04:50
Obviously, as a designer, that's really exciting
115
275000
3000
Naravno, kao dizajneru, ovo je jako uzbudljivo.
04:53
because then I start to think, wow,
116
278000
2000
Jer onda počinjem misliti, wow,
04:55
we could actually imagine
117
280000
2000
možemo zamisliti da
04:57
growing consumable products.
118
282000
3000
uzgajamo potrošne proizvode.
05:01
What excites me about using microbes
119
286000
3000
Ono što me uzbuđuje oko ovih mikroba
05:04
is their efficiency.
120
289000
2000
je njihova uspješnost.
05:06
So we only grow what we need.
121
291000
2000
Uzgajamo samo ono što trebamo.
05:08
There's no waste.
122
293000
2000
Nema otpadaka.
05:10
And in fact, we could make it from a waste stream --
123
295000
3000
Ustvari, možemo to napraviti i od otpadaka -
05:13
so for example,
124
298000
2000
na primjer,
05:15
a waste sugar stream
125
300000
2000
otpadaka šećera
05:17
from a food processing plant.
126
302000
2000
iz fabrike hrane.
05:19
Finally, at the end of use, we could biodegrade it naturally
127
304000
3000
Na kraju korištenja, ona može biodegradirati
05:22
along with your vegetable peelings.
128
307000
3000
zajedno sa ostacima povrća.
05:25
What I'm not suggesting is that microbial cellulose
129
310000
3000
Ne govorim da će mikrobiološka celuloza
05:28
is going to be a replacement
130
313000
2000
biti zamjena
05:30
for cotton, leather or other textile materials.
131
315000
3000
za pamuk, kožu i druge tekstilne materijale.
05:33
But I do think it could be quite a smart and sustainable addition
132
318000
4000
Ali mislim da može biti pametan i održiv dodatak
05:37
to our increasingly precious natural resources.
133
322000
3000
našim sve cjenjenijim prirodnim resursima.
05:40
Ultimately, maybe it won't even be fashion
134
325000
2000
Najzad, možda neće biti ni moda
05:42
where we see these microbes have their impact.
135
327000
2000
gdje ćemo vidjeti uticaj ovih mikroba.
05:44
We could, for example, imagine
136
329000
2000
Možemo, na primjer, zamisliti
05:46
growing a lamp, a chair,
137
331000
3000
uzgajanje lampe ili stolice,
05:49
a car or maybe even a house.
138
334000
3000
ili auta, ili možda i kuće.
05:52
So I guess what my question to you is:
139
337000
3000
Dakle moje pitanje vama je:
05:55
in the future, what would you choose to grow?
140
340000
2000
u budućnosti, šta biste izabrali da uzgojite?
05:57
Thank you very much.
141
342000
2000
Hvala vam puno.
05:59
(Applause)
142
344000
9000
(Aplauz)
06:08
Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, just a curiosity,
143
353000
2000
Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, samo na brzinu,
06:10
what you're wearing is not random. (Suzanne Lee: No.)
144
355000
3000
ono što nosite nije slučajno. (Suzanne Lee: Ne.)
06:13
This is one of the jackets you grew?
145
358000
2000
Ovo je jedna od jakni koju ste uzgojili?
06:15
SL: Yes, it is.
146
360000
2000
SL: Da, jeste.
06:17
It's probably -- part of the project's still in process
147
362000
2000
Vjerovatno je - dio projekta je još u jeku,
06:19
because this one
148
364000
2000
jer ova
06:21
is actually biodegrading in front of your eyes.
149
366000
2000
se biodegradira pred našim očima.
06:23
(Laughter)
150
368000
2000
(Smijeh)
06:25
It's absorbing my sweat, and it's feeding on it.
151
370000
3000
Apsorbira moj znoj, te se njime hrani.
06:28
BG: Okay, so we'll let you go and save it, and rescue it.
152
373000
2000
BG: Dobro, pustićemo Vas da idete i da je spasite.
06:30
Suzanne Lee. (SL: Thank you.)
153
375000
3000
Suzanne Lee. (SL: Hvala vam.)
06:33
(Applause)
154
378000
2000
(Aplauz)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Suzanne Lee - DesignerTED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes.
Why you should listen
Fashion designer Suzanne Lee directs the BioCouture research project, which sprang from an idea in her book Fashioning the Future: Tomorrow’s Wardrobe, a seminal text on fashion and future technologies. Her research harnesses nature to propose a radical future fashion vision: Can we grow a dress from a vat of liquid?
Using bacterial-cellulose, Lee aims to address pressing ecological and sustainability issues around fashion and beyond. A Senior Research Fellow at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, she is working with scientists to investigate whether synthetic biology can engineer optimized organisms for growing future consumer products
Suzanne Lee | Speaker | TED.com