TED2014
Ben Saunders: To the South Pole and back — the hardest 105 days of my life
本 桑德斯: 极点往返 - 我生命中最艰苦的105天
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Readability: 4.3
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今年，探险家本·桑德瑞斯展开了他最雄心壮志的旅程。-完成罗伯特·法尔考·斯科特船长，1912年未尽的南极探险。历时四月，共计1800英里。-他从南极洲边缘出发，到达极点，尔后返回。在回归后五周，于三尺讲台口述的冒险历程，桑德斯诚挚且直面他的”傲慢“，这一人生最为艰难的抉择，照亮前行之路。
Ben Saunders - Polar explorer
In 2004, Ben Saunders became the youngest person ever to ski solo to the North Pole. In 2013, he set out on another record-breaking expedition, this time to retrace Captain Scott’s ill-fated journey to the South Pole on foot. Full bio
In 2004, Ben Saunders became the youngest person ever to ski solo to the North Pole. In 2013, he set out on another record-breaking expedition, this time to retrace Captain Scott’s ill-fated journey to the South Pole on foot. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
So in the oasis of
intelligentsia that is TED,
intelligentsia that is TED,
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TED是智慧的绿洲，
00:18
I stand here before you this evening
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我有幸今晚站在这儿，
00:21
as an expert in dragging heavy
stuff around cold places.
stuff around cold places.
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以一位行走在天寒地冻区域的探险专家的身份发言。
00:27
I've been leading polar expeditions
for most of my adult life,
for most of my adult life,
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成年后，我把大部分时间用于带领极地探险，
00:30
and last month, my teammate
Tarka L'Herpiniere and I
Tarka L'Herpiniere and I
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上个月，我和队友拉卡·赫皮尼尔，
00:33
finished the most ambitious
expedition I've ever attempted.
expedition I've ever attempted.
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完成了有生以来最雄心勃勃的探险。
00:39
In fact, it feels like I've been
transported straight here
transported straight here
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我差不多像是从那无人区
00:42
from four months in the middle of nowhere,
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四个月的骂骂咧咧生活中，
00:44
mostly grunting and swearing,
straight to the TED stage.
straight to the TED stage.
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直接被传送到了演说现场。
00:49
So you can imagine that's a transition
that hasn't been entirely seamless.
that hasn't been entirely seamless.
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因此你大概能注意到，我还没缓过劲儿来。
00:53
One of the interesting side effects
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其中一个有意思的后遗症，
00:55
seems to be that my short-term
memory is entirely shot.
memory is entirely shot.
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就是我的短期记忆真的非常短，
00:58
So I've had to write some notes
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所以我不得不做记些笔记，
01:00
to avoid too much grunting and swearing
in the next 17 minutes.
in the next 17 minutes.
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来让剩下的17分钟，不会充斥咒骂和嘟哝。
01:05
This is the first talk I've given
about this expedition,
about this expedition,
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这是我第一次谈论这次探险，
01:08
and while we weren't sequencing genomes
or building space telescopes,
or building space telescopes,
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虽然我们没有做出基因测序，
或是建太空望远镜这样的贡献,
或是建太空望远镜这样的贡献,
01:13
this is a story about giving everything
we had to achieve something
we had to achieve something
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但这次探险里，我们依然竭尽所能，
01:18
that hadn't been done before.
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达成了人类前所未有的目标。
01:20
So I hope in that you might
find some food for thought.
find some food for thought.
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而我也希望你们能从中获得些启示。
01:24
It was a journey, an
expedition in Antarctica,
expedition in Antarctica,
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这是一次南极洲探险，
01:28
the coldest, windiest, driest and
highest altitude continent on Earth.
highest altitude continent on Earth.
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全世界最冷，风最大，最干燥，
海拔最高的大洲。
海拔最高的大洲。
01:32
It's a fascinating place.
It's a huge place.
It's a huge place.
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那是个不可思议的，巨大的地方。
01:34
It's twice the size of Australia,
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它的面积是澳大利亚版图的两倍，
01:37
a continent that is the same size
as China and India put together.
as China and India put together.
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等同于中国和印度版图面积的总和。
01:42
As an aside, I have experienced
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说句题外话，前些天
01:44
an interesting phenomenon
in the last few days,
in the last few days,
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我遇上了个有趣现象，
01:46
something that I expect Chris Hadfield
may get at TED in a few years' time,
may get at TED in a few years' time,
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宇航员克里斯·哈菲尔德几年前
在TED演讲时应该也经历过。
在TED演讲时应该也经历过。
01:50
conversations that go something like this:
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我遇上了诸如此类的对话：
01:52
"Oh, Antarctica. Awesome.
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“天啊，南极，棒极了！”，
01:53
My husband and I did Antarctica
with Lindblad for our anniversary."
with Lindblad for our anniversary."
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“我和老公在南极庆祝了结婚纪念日诶！”
01:59
Or, "Oh cool, did you go there
for the marathon?"
for the marathon?"
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或是“哦，真炫，你去那儿参加马拉松了？”
02:02
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
02:06
Our journey was, in fact,
69 marathons back to back
69 marathons back to back
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我们的旅程，
它实际路程约69个全程马拉松。
它实际路程约69个全程马拉松。
02:10
in 105 days, an 1,800-mile round trip
on foot from the coast of Antarctica
on foot from the coast of Antarctica
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共计105天，全程徒步从南极洲海岸
02:16
to the South Pole and back again.
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行至极点再返回，共计1800英里。
02:19
In the process, we broke the record
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期间，我们打破了人类最长
02:21
for the longest human-powered polar
journey in history by more than 400 miles.
journey in history by more than 400 miles.
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人力极圈旅程的记录 -
比它多了400多英里。
比它多了400多英里。
02:27
(Applause)
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（掌声）
02:31
For those of you from the Bay Area,
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对来自湾区的各位而言，
02:33
it was the same as walking from
here to San Francisco,
here to San Francisco,
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这个距离差不多是从这儿走到旧金山，
02:38
then turning around
and walking back again.
and walking back again.
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再走回这里。
02:40
So as camping trips go, it was a long one,
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这真是个漫长旅程。
02:45
and one I've seen summarized
most succinctly here
most succinctly here
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我在《马拉西亚经济洞察报》中，
02:48
on the hallowed pages
of Business Insider Malaysia.
of Business Insider Malaysia.
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看到关于此行最简洁的概述。
02:52
["Two Explorers Just Completed A Polar Expedition
That Killed Everyone The Last Time It Was Attempted"]
That Killed Everyone The Last Time It Was Attempted"]
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“两个探险家刚完成了上回尝试者
全军覆没的一次极地探险。”
全军覆没的一次极地探险。”
02:58
Chris Hadfield talked so eloquently
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克里斯·哈菲尔德痛陈了
03:00
about fear and about the odds of success,
and indeed the odds of survival.
and indeed the odds of survival.
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其中的恐惧以及成功与幸存的几率。
03:06
Of the nine people in history that had
attempted this journey before us,
attempted this journey before us,
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在我们之前尝试过这旅行的9人中，
03:10
none had made it to the pole and back,
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没有人是成功到达极点后又走回来的，
03:12
and five had died in the process.
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有五人死于途中。
03:16
This is Captain Robert Falcon Scott.
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这位是罗伯特·法尔考·斯科特，
03:19
He led the last team
to attempt this expedition.
to attempt this expedition.
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他带队作了最后的尝试。
03:22
Scott and his rival Sir Ernest Shackleton,
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斯科特
和竞争者欧内斯特·沙克尔顿爵士，
和竞争者欧内斯特·沙克尔顿爵士，
03:24
over the space of a decade,
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在十多年里，
03:27
both led expeditions battling to become
the first to reach the South Pole,
the first to reach the South Pole,
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都力争成为第一个抵达南极点、
03:31
to chart and map
the interior of Antarctica,
the interior of Antarctica,
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第一个画出南极内陆地图的人。
03:34
a place we knew less about, at the time,
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那时我们对那片土地知之甚少，
03:36
than the surface of the moon,
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-甚至不及月球表面。
03:38
because we could see
the moon through telescopes.
the moon through telescopes.
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因为我们能从望远镜看到月球，
03:40
Antarctica was, for the most part,
a century ago, uncharted.
a century ago, uncharted.
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而南极洲在一个世纪前
大部分地方都没地图。
大部分地方都没地图。
03:44
Some of you may know the story.
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你们中有人也许听过这故事，
03:46
Scott's last expedition, the
Terra Nova Expedition in 1910,
Terra Nova Expedition in 1910,
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1910年，
斯科特对新大陆作了他最后一次探险，
斯科特对新大陆作了他最后一次探险，
03:49
started as a giant
siege-style approach.
siege-style approach.
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带着胸中的万丈豪情。
03:51
He had a big team using ponies,
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他人力充足。在种马，
03:54
using dogs, using petrol-driven tractors,
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狗，汽动机，
03:56
dropping multiple, pre-positioned
depots of food and fuel
depots of food and fuel
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足量食物及燃油
的条件下，
的条件下，
04:00
through which Scott's final team of five
would travel to the Pole,
would travel to the Pole,
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斯科特的五人小队
将会到达极点，
将会到达极点，
04:03
where they would turn around and ski
back to the coast again on foot.
back to the coast again on foot.
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然后，他们掉头返回，
用双脚丈量海岸。
用双脚丈量海岸。
04:07
Scott and his final team of five
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1912年一月，
04:09
arrived at the South Pole
in January 1912
in January 1912
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斯科特和他的五人小分队
到达了南极点。
到达了南极点。
04:13
to find they had been beaten to it
by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen,
by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen,
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但不巧，他们发现
由挪威人罗尔德·阿蒙森领头的小队
由挪威人罗尔德·阿蒙森领头的小队
04:18
who rode on dogsled.
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已然领先。
04:19
Scott's team ended up on foot.
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斯科特及队员们徒步前行。
04:21
And for more than a century
this journey has remained unfinished.
this journey has remained unfinished.
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然而，已经过了一个世纪，
漫漫旅途无果而终。
漫漫旅途无果而终。
04:26
Scott's team of five died
on the return journey.
on the return journey.
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斯科特的五人小分队，
死于归途。
死于归途。
04:29
And for the last decade,
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过去十年来，
04:31
I've been asking myself why that is.
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我不断自问：为何？
04:34
How come this has remained
the high-water mark?
the high-water mark?
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何以它仍为人类巅峰？
04:38
Scott's team covered 1,600 miles on foot.
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斯科特的团队共计步行
1600英里。
1600英里。
04:40
No one's come close to that ever since.
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前无古人，后无来者。
04:42
So this is the high-water mark
of human endurance,
of human endurance,
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这是人类耐力顶峰，
04:45
human endeavor,
human athletic achievement
human athletic achievement
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人们共同努力的结晶。
人类极限运动的巅峰。
人类极限运动的巅峰。
04:47
in arguably the harshest climate on Earth.
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况且，四目所及，天寒地坼。
04:50
It was as if the marathon record
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就好比马拉松记录，
04:53
has remained unbroken since 1912.
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自1912年以来都不曾被打破似的。
04:56
And of course some strange and
predictable combination of curiosity,
predictable combination of curiosity,
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好奇，混杂着第六感，随风而来。
05:01
stubbornness, and probably hubris
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固执，可能还有些许傲慢，
05:03
led me to thinking I might be the man
to try to finish the job.
to try to finish the job.
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让我跃跃欲试。
05:07
Unlike Scott's expedition,
there were just two of us,
there were just two of us,
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不同于斯科特，
我们相伴二人行。
我们相伴二人行。
05:10
and we set off from the coast
of Antarctica in October last year,
of Antarctica in October last year,
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自去年10月，
我们从南极洲海岸出发，
我们从南极洲海岸出发，
05:13
dragging everything ourselves,
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荷重前行。
05:16
a process Scott called "man-hauling."
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即斯科特所谓的“人拖”。
05:18
When I say it was like walking from
here to San Francisco and back,
here to San Francisco and back,
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我刚才说，这就像
从这儿到旧金山的往返路程。
从这儿到旧金山的往返路程。
05:21
I actually mean it was like dragging
something that weighs a shade more
something that weighs a shade more
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实际上，还要再拖个
比美式橄榄球运动员
比美式橄榄球运动员
05:25
than the heaviest ever NFL player.
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稍微重点的东西。
05:27
Our sledges weighed 200 kilos,
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我们的行李大约200公斤重
05:29
or 440 pounds each at the start,
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或者说，刚开始，每人负荷是440磅。
05:32
the same weights that the weakest
of Scott's ponies pulled.
of Scott's ponies pulled.
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这是斯科特团队中最瘦弱
的种马拉的货物重量。
的种马拉的货物重量。
05:37
Early on, we averaged 0.5 miles per hour.
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起先，我们平均一小时行进0.5英里，
05:40
Perhaps the reason no one had
attempted this journey until now,
attempted this journey until now,
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也许，
超过一世纪，
超过一世纪，
05:43
in more than a century,
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人们惶而畏之因，
05:45
was that no one had been quite
stupid enough to try.
stupid enough to try.
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是真没有这么傻的人会尝试啊。
05:50
And while I can't claim we were exploring
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虽然我们不能像爱德华时代
05:52
in the genuine Edwardian
sense of the word —
sense of the word —
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的探索家那样，
05:55
we weren't naming any mountains
or mapping any uncharted valleys —
or mapping any uncharted valleys —
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我们不是在为山命名
或是标出任何未知的峡谷
或是标出任何未知的峡谷
05:59
I think we were stepping into uncharted
territory in a human sense.
territory in a human sense.
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但我想我们踏入了一种人性的新区域。
06:03
Certainly, if in the future we learn
there is an area of the human brain
there is an area of the human brain
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诚然，如果未来，
我们得知人在赌咒时
我们得知人在赌咒时
06:06
that lights up when one curses oneself,
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大脑一块区域会被激活，
06:10
I won't be at all surprised.
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对我来说，这没什么好惊讶的。
06:13
You've heard that the average American
spends 90 percent of their time indoors.
spends 90 percent of their time indoors.
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你们己经知道美国人平均花90%在室内，
06:17
We didn't go indoors
for nearly four months.
for nearly four months.
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我们会几乎四个月不出门。
06:21
We didn't see a sunset either.
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我们当然也看不到日落。
06:23
It was 24-hour daylight.
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极点是24小时极昼，
06:25
Living conditions were quite spartan.
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生存条件恶劣。
06:27
I changed my underwear
three times in 105 days
three times in 105 days
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在105天里，我换了3次内衣
06:32
and Tarka and I shared
30 square feet on the canvas.
30 square feet on the canvas.
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我和队友共享30平方英尺的空间。
06:36
Though we did have some technology
that Scott could never have imagined.
that Scott could never have imagined.
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确实我们有斯科特团队想都想不到的
技术
技术
06:40
And we blogged live every evening
from the tent via a laptop
from the tent via a laptop
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而且我们每晚都会通过笔记本电脑
及简易制作的卫星信号转换器
及简易制作的卫星信号转换器
06:44
and a custom-made satellite transmitter,
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发博客来证明我们还活着。
06:46
all of which were solar-powered:
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这一切都是太阳能驱动的，
06:48
we had a flexible photovoltaic
panel over the tent.
panel over the tent.
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在帐篷上，我们有可灵活移动的摄像头。
06:50
And the writing was important to me.
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写下经历对我来说也很重要。
06:53
As a kid, I was inspired by the
literature of adventure and exploration,
literature of adventure and exploration,
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孩提时，我被冒险和探索小说鼓舞了
07:00
and I think we've all seen
here this week
here this week
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我想，这周，我们已经看到
07:03
the importance and
the power of storytelling.
the power of storytelling.
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叙述故事的重要性及其力量
07:07
So we had some 21st-century gear,
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综上所述，我们有21世纪的现代化设备
07:09
but the reality is that the
challenges that Scott faced
challenges that Scott faced
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但现实是，斯科特团队面临的挑战
07:11
were the same that we faced:
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于我们而言，同样存在：
07:13
those of the weather and of
what Scott called glide,
what Scott called glide,
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天气恶劣，以及
07:17
the amount of friction between
the sledges and the snow.
the sledges and the snow.
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雪橇及雪之间大量的摩擦产生的
斯科特称之为“滑动”的作用力。
斯科特称之为“滑动”的作用力。
07:20
The lowest wind chill
we experienced was in the -70s,
we experienced was in the -70s,
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风力最低也是70mps
07:24
and we had zero visibility,
what's called white-out,
what's called white-out,
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伸手不见五指
这就是所谓的白茫茫一片。
这就是所谓的白茫茫一片。
07:27
for much of our journey.
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我们旅程大多数时候都是这样的。
07:30
We traveled up and down one of the largest
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我们穿行在世界上最大，也是最危险的
07:32
and most dangerous glaciers
in the world, the Beardmore glacier.
in the world, the Beardmore glacier.
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冰川之一，比尔德莫尔冰川之上。
07:35
It's 110 miles long; most of its surface
is what's called blue ice.
is what's called blue ice.
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它长达110米，表层大部分由一种叫
蓝冰的物质覆盖。
蓝冰的物质覆盖。
07:39
You can see it's a beautiful,
shimmering steel-hard blue surface
shimmering steel-hard blue surface
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你们可以看到，
它是美丽却难以使车轮前行的光滑冰川
它是美丽却难以使车轮前行的光滑冰川
07:42
covered with thousands
and thousands of crevasses,
and thousands of crevasses,
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它由数以千计的溶洞覆盖
07:46
these deep cracks in the glacial ice
up to 200 feet deep.
up to 200 feet deep.
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最深处可达200英尺深。
07:50
Planes can't land here,
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飞机无法着陆，
07:52
so we were at the most risk,
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所以我们的生命岌岌可危，
07:55
technically, when we had the slimmest
chance of being rescued.
chance of being rescued.
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我们生还的几率近乎为零。
08:00
We got to the South Pole
after 61 days on foot,
after 61 days on foot,
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除了有一天因为天气状况太糟糕而停止行进
08:04
with one day off for bad weather,
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再去南极点的路上
在徒步走了61天后
在徒步走了61天后
08:06
and I'm sad to say, it was
something of an anticlimax.
something of an anticlimax.
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我要说，这确实难于上青天。
08:09
There's a permanent American base,
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2465
这里有个永久的美国基地，
08:11
the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station
at the South Pole.
at the South Pole.
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-在南极点的阿姆森-斯科特极点考察站。
08:15
They have an airstrip,
they have a canteen,
they have a canteen,
147
483044
1951
那儿有停机坪
厨房，
厨房，
08:16
they have hot showers,
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1453
热水浴。
08:18
they have a post office, a tourist shop,
149
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1905
有邮局，游轮，
08:20
a basketball court that doubles
as a movie theater.
as a movie theater.
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3738
以及两倍于一个电影院的篮球场。
08:24
So it's a bit different these days,
151
492091
1975
所以，这些天略有不同
08:26
and there are also acres of junk.
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1796
也有成堆的垃圾。
08:27
I think it's a marvelous thing
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我觉得人类一年365天
08:29
that humans can exist
365 days of the year
365 days of the year
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只靠汉堡，热水和影院就能生活
08:34
with hamburgers and hot showers
and movie theaters,
and movie theaters,
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3545
简直不可思议。
08:38
but it does seem to produce
a lot of empty cardboard boxes.
a lot of empty cardboard boxes.
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2756
但这似乎确实产生了许多空纸板盒。
08:40
You can see on the left of
this photograph,
this photograph,
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2062
你可以看到在这张照片的左面，
08:42
several square acres of junk
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510949
1435
有好几平方的垃圾
08:44
waiting to be flown out
from the South Pole.
from the South Pole.
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2513
等着从南极点拖走。
08:46
But there is also a pole at the South Pole,
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4032
但南极也有个极点，
08:50
and we got there on foot, unassisted,
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3396
我们没有技术支持
08:54
unsupported, by the hardest route,
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1646
走最困难的路线
08:55
900 miles in record time,
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2345
共计900英里
08:58
dragging more weight
than anyone in history.
than anyone in history.
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2048
而且负重超过史上任何一位考察队员。
09:00
And if we'd stopped there
and flown home,
and flown home,
165
528364
1969
而如果我们止步于此，
折返离开，
折返离开，
09:02
which would have been
the eminently sensible thing to do,
the eminently sensible thing to do,
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3134
去做更有意义的事
09:05
then my talk would end here
167
533467
1881
那我的演讲也就到此为止了。
09:07
and it would end something like this.
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3590
也就不足为奇。
09:10
If you have the right team around you,
the right tools, the right technology,
the right tools, the right technology,
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538938
4805
但如果你有优秀的团队，适宜的工具
险情的科技
险情的科技
09:15
and if you have enough self-belief
and enough determination,
and enough determination,
170
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3738
而且，自信满满
意志坚定
意志坚定
09:19
then anything is possible.
171
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3445
那一切险阻当不在话下。
09:24
But then we turned around,
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2633
但那时，我们四周晃了会儿，
09:27
and this is where things get interesting.
173
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2759
然后一切变得有趣起来了。
09:30
High on the Antarctic plateau,
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558048
2794
在亚特兰地高地，
09:32
over 10,000 feet, it's very windy,
very cold, very dry, we were exhausted.
very cold, very dry, we were exhausted.
175
560842
3999
超过10000英尺的地方，寒风凛冽
天寒地燥，我们精疲力竭。
天寒地燥，我们精疲力竭。
09:36
We'd covered 35 marathons,
176
564841
1870
我们翻阅了35座冰川
09:38
we were only halfway,
177
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1586
但这只是路途一半。
09:40
and we had a safety net, of course,
178
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2031
但我们肯定有安全措施，
09:42
of ski planes and satellite phones
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570328
2124
我们有雪上飞机和卫星电话。
09:44
and live, 24-hour tracking beacons
that didn't exist for Scott,
that didn't exist for Scott,
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以及24小时时刻待命的后援团，
斯科特可没有这些安全措施。
斯科特可没有这些安全措施。
09:48
but in hindsight,
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1742
但从制高点来看，
09:50
rather than making our lives easier,
182
578257
2066
安全措施并未使我们的生活更好
09:52
the safety net actually allowed us
183
580323
2159
它确实际上
09:54
to cut things very fine indeed,
184
582482
3855
使东西四分五裂。
09:58
to sail very close to our absolute
limits as human beings.
limits as human beings.
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3767
让我们无限接近人类极限。
10:02
And it is an exquisite form of torture
186
590104
3473
并且，它是一种细致的折磨方式
10:05
to exhaust yourself to the point
of starvation day after day
of starvation day after day
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593577
2837
日复一日，将你拖到饥饿的零界点，
使你精疲力竭。
使你精疲力竭。
10:08
while dragging a sledge
full of food.
full of food.
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596414
4262
-而且你是拉着一雪橇满满的食物。
10:12
For years, I'd been writing glib lines
in sponsorship proposals
in sponsorship proposals
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600686
3927
数年来，我一直以资助顾问的身份撰写
10:16
about pushing the limits
of human endurance,
of human endurance,
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604613
3111
关于推动人类极限的油腔滑调的文章。
10:19
but in reality, that was
a very frightening place to be indeed.
a very frightening place to be indeed.
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607724
4412
实际上，它确实是个令人畏惧的领域。
10:24
We had, before we'd got to the Pole,
192
612136
1909
在去南极前，我们
10:26
two weeks of almost permanent
headwind, which slowed us down.
headwind, which slowed us down.
193
614045
3464
给头顶吹了2周的风，让我们反应迟钝。
10:29
As a result, we'd had several days
of eating half rations.
of eating half rations.
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617509
2650
结果，好几天我们食欲减半。
10:32
We had a finite amount of food
in the sledges to make this journey,
in the sledges to make this journey,
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620159
2719
我们为这次行程在雪橇中准备了足量食物
10:34
so we were trying to string that out
196
622878
2002
所以我们通过
10:36
by reducing our intake to half
the calories we should have been eating.
the calories we should have been eating.
197
624880
3913
减少我们的卡路里摄入量至一半
来节省食物
来节省食物
10:40
As a result, we both became
increasingly hypoglycemic —
increasingly hypoglycemic —
198
628793
3619
结果，我们
身体机能出现问题
身体机能出现问题
10:44
we had low blood sugar
levels day after day —
levels day after day —
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632412
2824
我们日复一日，血糖指数
不断降低
不断降低
10:47
and increasingly susceptible
to the extreme cold.
to the extreme cold.
200
635236
4758
但对严寒的适应程度却越发的好了。
10:51
Tarka took this photo of me one evening
201
639994
2103
在一个晚上，Tarka拍了这张我的照片
10:54
after I'd nearly passed out
with hypothermia.
with hypothermia.
202
642097
2130
-就在我近乎因为低温昏过去时。
10:56
We both had repeated bouts of hypothermia,
something I hadn't experienced before,
something I hadn't experienced before,
203
644227
4808
我们身体都反复经历低温，
这之前从未有过。
这之前从未有过。
11:01
and it was very humbling indeed.
204
649035
1711
这让人颤抖。
11:02
As much as you might
like to think, as I do,
like to think, as I do,
205
650746
3668
就像你们可能会想，我也这么想过，
11:06
that you're the kind
of person who doesn't quit,
of person who doesn't quit,
206
654414
2256
你是不会退缩的人
11:08
that you'll go down swinging,
207
656670
1994
你会继续探索
11:10
hypothermia doesn't leave you much choice.
208
658664
2252
低温并不会改变你选择。
11:12
You become utterly incapacitated.
209
660916
2810
你变得行为无法自主，
11:15
It's like being a drunk toddler.
210
663726
3181
像醉汉一样。
11:18
You become pathetic.
211
666907
1973
你变得又笨又可怜。
11:20
I remember just wanting
to lie down and quit.
to lie down and quit.
212
668880
4119
我记得，我当时只想
躺下来。然后退出。
躺下来。然后退出。
11:24
It was a peculiar, peculiar feeling,
213
672999
2174
这是极为真切的感受。
11:27
and a real surprise to me
to be debilitated to that degree.
to be debilitated to that degree.
214
675173
5239
认输的想法
真的令我震惊不已。
真的令我震惊不已。
11:32
And then we ran out of food completely,
215
680412
4482
然后我们食物消耗殆尽，
11:36
46 miles short of the first of the depots
216
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3458
离我们倚赖的第一仓库
11:40
that we'd laid on our outward journey.
217
688352
1865
还有46英里远
11:42
We'd laid 10 depots of food,
218
690217
1343
我们拿出10样食物，
11:43
literally burying food and fuel,
for our return journey —
for our return journey —
219
691560
2717
烧食物与汽油
准备返程
准备返程
11:46
the fuel was for a cooker so you
could melt snow to get water —
could melt snow to get water —
220
694277
3277
燃油是为炊具准备的
这样你可以把雪变成水。
这样你可以把雪变成水。
11:49
and I was forced to make the decision
to call for a resupply flight,
to call for a resupply flight,
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5807
我不得不呼叫供应飞机
11:55
a ski plane carrying eight days of food
to tide us over that gap.
to tide us over that gap.
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703361
4569
这是带着可以助我们越过那道坎的
8天食物的雪上飞机。
8天食物的雪上飞机。
11:59
They took 12 hours to reach us
from the other side of Antarctica.
from the other side of Antarctica.
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707930
3359
他们用了12小时
从亚特兰地的另一头飞到我们这边
从亚特兰地的另一头飞到我们这边
12:03
Calling for that plane was one of
the toughest decisions of my life.
the toughest decisions of my life.
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3709
呼叫那趟飞机
是我人生中最艰难的决定之一。
是我人生中最艰难的决定之一。
12:06
And I sound like a bit of a fraud
standing here now with a sort of belly.
standing here now with a sort of belly.
225
714998
3476
我听上去就像
无助的站在那儿朝旷野呼唤的人
无助的站在那儿朝旷野呼唤的人
12:10
I've put on 30 pounds
in the last three weeks.
in the last three weeks.
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718474
2840
在过去三周，我已增重30磅
12:13
Being that hungry has left
an interesting mental scar,
an interesting mental scar,
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721314
3075
在那样的饥饿状态下
导致了另一个有意思的后遗症
导致了另一个有意思的后遗症
12:16
which is that I've been hoovering up
every hotel buffet that I can find.
every hotel buffet that I can find.
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4607
-我一直在找我能找到的所有酒店自助餐
12:20
(Laughter)
229
728996
1778
（笑声）
12:22
But we were genuinely quite hungry,
and in quite a bad way.
and in quite a bad way.
230
730774
5694
但我们确实饿得不行
身体状况极其糟糕
身体状况极其糟糕
12:28
I don't regret calling
for that plane for a second,
for that plane for a second,
231
736468
2441
我并不后悔
呼叫了那趟飞机
呼叫了那趟飞机
12:30
because I'm still standing here alive,
232
738909
2002
因为我还活着站在这儿
12:32
with all digits intact,
telling this story.
telling this story.
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2060
记述所有细节
诉说着这个故事。
诉说着这个故事。
12:34
But getting external assistance like that
was never part of the plan,
was never part of the plan,
234
742971
4738
但是获得那样的额外援助
绝不是计划的一部分。
绝不是计划的一部分。
12:39
and it's something my ego
is still struggling with.
is still struggling with.
235
747709
3204
这也是我的良心仍旧苦苦挣扎的地方。
12:42
This was the biggest dream I've ever had,
236
750913
3042
这是我有生以来最大的梦想
12:45
and it was so nearly perfect.
237
753955
2092
它近乎完美。
12:48
On the way back down to the coast,
238
756967
1681
再回海岸的路上
12:50
our crampons — they're
the spikes on our boots
the spikes on our boots
239
758648
2191
我们的破冰撬-
他们是我们
他们是我们
12:52
that we have for traveling
over this blue ice on the glacier —
over this blue ice on the glacier —
240
760839
2926
在这个蓝色冰川上行进的砥柱-坏掉了。
12:55
broke on the top of the Beardmore.
241
763765
1655
-就在本德穆尔冰川制高点。
12:57
We still had 100 miles to go downhill
242
765420
1765
在这些难以攀岩的蓝冰上，
12:59
on very slippery rock-hard blue ice.
243
767185
2234
我们还有100英里要走下去。
13:01
They needed repairing almost every hour.
244
769419
2391
几乎每小时，他们就要修一下。
13:03
To give you an idea of scale,
245
771810
1951
给你们个大体上的概念吧
13:05
this is looking down towards the mouth
of the Beardmore Glacier.
of the Beardmore Glacier.
246
773761
2997
这就像是从本德穆尔冰川顶上向下看。
13:08
You could fit the entirety of Manhattan
in the gap on the horizon.
in the gap on the horizon.
247
776758
3475
你可以在曼哈顿的间隙瞭望到整个视野。
13:12
That's 20 miles between
Mount Hope and Mount Kiffin.
Mount Hope and Mount Kiffin.
248
780233
3214
霍普山与凯芙琳山间隔20英里。
13:15
I've never felt as small
as I did in Antarctica.
as I did in Antarctica.
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783447
6233
在亚特兰地，我从未感到自己如此渺小。
13:21
When we got down
to the mouth of the glacier,
to the mouth of the glacier,
250
789680
2105
当我们走到冰川口时
13:23
we found fresh snow had obscured
the dozens of deep crevasses.
the dozens of deep crevasses.
251
791785
4646
发现新下的雪已经覆盖了岩洞的裂口。
13:28
One of Shackleton's men described
crossing this sort of terrain
crossing this sort of terrain
252
796431
2950
一位沙克雷顿成员描述了
走过这层冰川的感觉，
走过这层冰川的感觉，
13:31
as like walking over the glass roof
of a railway station.
of a railway station.
253
799381
4994
就像走过铁路表面一样。
13:36
We fell through more times
than I can remember,
than I can remember,
254
804375
2914
我己经记不得有多少次，
13:39
usually just putting a ski
or a boot through the snow.
or a boot through the snow.
255
807289
3432
我们在雪上放一块
雪橇或木板来看有没有洞
雪橇或木板来看有没有洞
13:42
Occasionally we went in all
the way up to our armpits,
the way up to our armpits,
256
810721
2603
偶尔，我们会掉进我们的窝
13:45
but thankfully never deeper than that.
257
813324
3443
但感谢上帝，没有更深了。
13:48
And less than five weeks ago,
after 105 days,
after 105 days,
258
816767
4180
五周前，也就是105天后，
13:52
we crossed this oddly
inauspicious finish line,
inauspicious finish line,
259
820947
3575
我们越过了终点线。
13:56
the coast of Ross Island
on the New Zealand side of Antarctica.
on the New Zealand side of Antarctica.
260
824522
3022
在亚特兰地新西兰的罗斯群岛海岸线。
13:59
You can see the ice in the foreground
261
827544
2150
你可以看到在前边的冰
14:01
and the sort of rubbly rock behind that.
262
829694
2862
以及后边风化的岩石。
14:04
Behind us lay an unbroken
ski trail of nearly 1,800 miles.
ski trail of nearly 1,800 miles.
263
832556
3802
在我们后面，有一条长达1800英里
未被破坏的冰线。
未被破坏的冰线。
14:08
We'd made the longest ever
polar journey on foot,
polar journey on foot,
264
836358
2508
我们曾徒步走完了有史以来最长的极圈旅程
14:10
something I'd been dreaming
of doing for a decade.
of doing for a decade.
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这我已梦想了几十年了。
14:15
And looking back,
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回首往事
14:17
I still stand by all the things
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我依然支持
14:19
I've been saying for years
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我数年来所说的
14:21
about the importance of goals
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有关目标，决心，及自信
14:23
and determination and self-belief,
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的重要性。
14:26
but I'll also admit that I hadn't given
much thought to what happens
much thought to what happens
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但我也承认我并未充分考虑
14:31
when you reach the all-consuming goal
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当你完成所有预定目标时会发生的事
14:35
that you've dedicated
most of your adult life to,
most of your adult life to,
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这些目标是你成人生活中为之贡献一生的
14:38
and the reality is that I'm
still figuring that bit out.
still figuring that bit out.
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现实就是，我还在想要阐明它。
14:42
As I said, there are very few
superficial signs that I've been away.
superficial signs that I've been away.
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我也说过，几乎没有迹象表明我离开过。
14:45
I've put on 30 pounds.
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我增重了30磅
14:47
I've got some very faint, probably
covered in makeup now, frostbite scars.
covered in makeup now, frostbite scars.
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我有了些淡淡的可能现在已消失的小红斑
14:50
I've got one on my nose, one on
each cheek, from where the goggles are,
each cheek, from where the goggles are,
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鼻子上，脸颊上各一处，
都是被护目镜压出来的。
都是被护目镜压出来的。
14:54
but inside I am a very
different person indeed.
different person indeed.
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但内里，我改头换面了。
14:59
If I'm honest,
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如果要我诚实到来，
15:01
Antarctica challenged me
and humbled me so deeply
and humbled me so deeply
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亚特兰地如此深入的挑战我并改变了我
15:06
that I'm not sure I'll ever be able
to put it into words.
to put it into words.
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这是不能用言语描述的变化。
15:10
I'm still struggling to piece
together my thoughts.
together my thoughts.
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我仍在竭力重组我的想法
15:14
That I'm standing here
telling this story
telling this story
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我站在这儿讲这个故事的原因就是，
15:18
is proof that we all can
accomplish great things,
accomplish great things,
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为了证明我们都能完成伟大的事情。
15:23
through ambition, through passion,
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通过雄心，通过激情，
15:25
through sheer stubbornness,
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通过傲慢，固执
15:27
by refusing to quit,
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通过拒绝离开
15:28
that if you dream something
hard enough, as Sting said,
hard enough, as Sting said,
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如果你梦想的事足够艰难，
正如斯蒂芬说过的，
正如斯蒂芬说过的，
15:31
it does indeed come to pass.
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它确然能实现。
15:34
But I'm also standing here
saying, you know what,
saying, you know what,
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但我也站在这儿告诉你们，
15:38
that cliche about the journey being
more important than the destination?
more important than the destination?
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你们应当知道的是，路途远必目的地重要
15:44
There's something in that.
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有据可循
15:47
The closer I got to my finish line,
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我越靠近我的终点线
15:49
that rubbly, rocky coast of Ross Island,
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罗斯群岛粗陋的海岸
15:53
the more I started to realize
that the biggest lesson
that the biggest lesson
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我越发开始意识到这次很长，很难的徒步
15:56
that this very long, very hard walk
might be teaching me
might be teaching me
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带给我的最大教训，
那就是
那就是
16:01
is that happiness is not
a finish line,
a finish line,
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对我们人类来说
16:05
that for us humans,
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幸福不是终点线
16:06
the perfection that so many of
us seem to dream of
us seem to dream of
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我们许多人所梦想的完美
16:10
might not ever be truly attainable,
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也许遥不可及。
16:14
and that if we can't feel content
here, today, now, on our journeys
here, today, now, on our journeys
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如果我们不能在此时，此地，此行中
感到知足，
感到知足，
16:22
amidst the mess and the striving
that we all inhabit,
that we all inhabit,
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承认我们继承的混乱与无序
16:27
the open loops,
the half-finished to-do lists,
the half-finished to-do lists,
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打开的屋顶
完成一半的清单
完成一半的清单
16:29
the could-do-better-next-times,
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也许下次会更好的想法
16:32
then we might never feel it.
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那我们可能永远感受不到它。
16:36
A lot of people have asked me, what next?
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许多人曾问过我，接下来呢？
16:39
Right now, I am very happy just recovering
and in front of hotel buffets.
and in front of hotel buffets.
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现在，我很高兴刚从旅馆自助餐后遗症中
恢复过来
恢复过来
16:46
But as Bob Hope put it,
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但就像鲍勃·霍普期望的
16:50
I feel very humble,
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我感到很卑微。
16:53
but I think I have the strength
of character to fight it. (Laughter)
of character to fight it. (Laughter)
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但我认为我有强大的人格来与他斗争（笑）
16:57
Thank you.
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谢谢
16:59
(Applause)
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（掌声）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Ben Saunders - Polar explorerIn 2004, Ben Saunders became the youngest person ever to ski solo to the North Pole. In 2013, he set out on another record-breaking expedition, this time to retrace Captain Scott’s ill-fated journey to the South Pole on foot.
Why you should listen
Although most of the planet's surface was mapped long ago, there's still a place for explorers in the modern world. And Ben Saunders' stories of arctic exploration -- as impressive for their technical ingenuity as their derring-do -- are decidedly modern. In 2004, at age 26, he skied solo to the North Pole, updating his blog each day of the trip. Humble and self-effacing, Saunders is an explorer of limits, whether it's how far a human can be pushed physically and psychologically, or how technology works hundreds of miles from civilization. His message is one of inspiration, empowerment and boundless potential.
He urges audiences to consider carefully how to spend the “tiny amount of time we each have on this planet.” Saunders is also a powerful advocate for the natural world. He's seen first-hand the effects of climate change, and his expeditions are raising awareness for sustainable solutions.
Being the youngest person to ski solo to the North Pole did not satiate Saunders' urge to explore and push the boundaries. In 2008, he attempted to break the speed record for a solo walk to the North Pole; however, his journey was ended abruptly both then and again in 2010 due to equipment failure. From October 2013 to February 2014, he led a two-man team to retrace Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s ill-fated 1,800-mile expedition to the South Pole on foot. He calls this journey the hardest 105 days of his life.
Ben Saunders | Speaker | TED.com