Taste3 2008
Peter Reinhart: The art and craft of bread
Peter Reinhard: Fa venir el pa a la boca
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De fornada en fornada, de crosta en crosta ... En un homenatge a aquest aliment de primera necessitat, Peter Reinhart discorre sobre les avinences (blat i llevat, midó i calor) que ens donen el nostre pa de cada dia. Us costarà no menjar-vos-en una llesca!
Peter Reinhart - Baker
Master breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread. Full bio
Master breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:16
This is a wheat bread, a whole wheat bread,
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Això és un pa integral, un pa de gra complet,
00:18
and it's made with a new technique
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i està fet amb un mètode nou
00:20
that I've been playing around with,
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que he estat experimentant
00:22
and developing and writing about which, for lack of a better name,
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i millorant, i sobre el que he escrit i que, a falta d'un nom millor,
00:24
we call the epoxy method.
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es diu mètode epoxi.
00:26
And I call it an epoxy method because --
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En diem epoxi perquè ...
00:28
it's not very appetizing. I understand that --
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No fa venir l'aigua a la boca, ja me n'adono, ja ...
00:30
but -- but
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però ... però ...
00:32
if you think about epoxy, what's epoxy?
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Si penseu en l'epoxi, què és l'epoxi?
00:34
It's two resins that are, sort of,
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Són dues resines, més o menys,
00:36
in and of themselves -- neither of which can make glue,
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i tota sola, cap de les dues serveix de pega,
00:39
but when you put the two together,
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però quan es barregen,
00:41
something happens. A bond takes place,
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passa quelcom. Es crea un enllaç
00:42
and you get this very strong, powerful
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i el resultat és un adhesiu
00:44
adhesive.
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fort i resistent.
00:46
Well, in this technique,
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Doncs bé, amb aquest mètode,
00:48
what I've tried to do is kind of
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el que he provat de fer, com qui diu,
00:50
gather all of the knowledge that the bread-baking world,
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és reunir tot el saber que els forners,
00:52
the artisan bread-baking community,
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que la gent que fa pans artesans
00:54
has been trying to accumulate over the last 20 years or so --
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ha mirat d'acumular durant els darrers 20 anys
00:57
since we've been engaged in a bread renaissance in America --
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- des que va començar el renaixement del pa a Amèrica -
01:00
and put it together to come up with a method
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i, amb tot plegat, crear un mètode
01:03
that would help to take whole-grain breads.
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per millorar el pa integral.
01:06
And let's face it, everyone's trying to move towards whole grains.
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Perquè, admetem-ho, tothom mira de passar-se al pa integral.
01:09
We finally, after 40 years of knowing
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Ja fa 40 anys que sabem
01:12
that wholegrain was a healthier option,
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que el pa integral és més saludable,
01:14
we're finally getting to the point where we actually are tipping over
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i ara hem arribat al punt en que, per fi,
01:17
and attempting to actually eat them.
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la gent es decideix a menjar-ne.
01:19
(Laughter)
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(Riallades)
01:21
The challenge, though, for a wholegrain baker is,
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Però, el repte per als forners és
01:23
you know, how do you make it taste good?
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vaja, com fer pa integral bo.
01:26
Because whole grain -- it's easy with white flour
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Perquè el pa integral ... Amb farina blanca és fàcil
01:28
to make a good-tasting bread. White flour is sweet.
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fer pa que sigui bo. La farina blanca es dolça.
01:31
It's mainly starch, and starch, when you break it down --
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Es midó, més que res, i quan el descomponem ...
01:34
what is starch? It's -- thank you -- sugar, yes.
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Què és el midó? Es - gràcies - sí, és sucre.
01:37
So a baker, and a good baker,
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Un forner, un bon forner,
01:39
knows how to pull or draw forth
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sap com extreure
01:42
the inherent sugar trapped in the starch.
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aquest sucre atrapat en el midó.
01:45
With whole grain bread, you have other obstacles.
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Però en el pa integral hi ha d'altres coses pel mig.
01:47
You've got bran, which is probably the healthiest part of the bread for us,
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Hi ha el segó, que és la part del pa que ens és més saludable,
01:50
or the fiber for us because it is just loaded with fiber,
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o fibra, que en du molta,
01:53
for the bran is fiber.
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perquè el segó és fibra.
01:55
It's got germ. Those are the good things,
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Hi ha el germen. Tot coses bones
01:57
but those aren't the tastiest parts of the wheat.
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però que no són les parts més saboroses del blat.
01:59
So whole grain breads historically
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Històricament, el pa integral
02:02
have had sort of this onus of being health food breads,
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sempre ha arrossegat el títol de saludable
02:04
and people don't like to eat,
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i a la gent no li agrada el menjar
02:06
quote, health food. They like to eat healthy and healthily,
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“saludable”. Els agrada menjar bé i menjar sa
02:09
but when we think of something as a health food,
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però quan pensem en menjar saludable
02:11
we think of it as something we eat out of obligation,
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sembla que ens ho hem de menjar per força
02:14
not out of passion and love for the flavor.
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no perquè ho trobem deliciós.
02:17
And ultimately, the challenge of the baker,
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Però, al cap i a la fi, el repte per als forners,
02:20
the challenge of every culinary student, of every chef,
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per als estudiants de cuina, per als xefs,
02:22
is to deliver flavor.
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és el bon gust.
02:25
Flavor is king. Flavor rules.
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El gust és rei. El gust mana.
02:27
I call it the flavor rule. Flavor rules.
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El gust té la paella pel mànec.
02:29
And -- and
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I ... I ...
02:31
you can get somebody to eat something that's good for them once,
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Pots fer que algú mengi quelcom saludable un cop,
02:34
but they won't eat it again if they don't like it, right?
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però si no els agrada no hi tornen, o no?
02:37
So, this is the challenge for this bread.
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Doncs aquesta és la prova que aquest pa ha de superar.
02:39
We're going to try this at lunch, and
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El tastarem per dinar, i
02:41
I'll explain a bit more about it,
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us en explicaré un parell de coses més.
02:43
but it's made not only with two types of pre-doughs --
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No només està fet amb dues pre-masses
02:46
this attempt, again, at bringing out flavor
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per donar-li el màxim de gust, com deiem.
02:48
is to make a piece of dough
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Una de les masses la fem
02:50
the day before that is not leavened.
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el dia abans i no du llevat.
02:53
It's just dough that is wet.
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És només farina i aigua.
02:55
It's hydrated dough we call "the soaker" --
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D’aquesta massa hidratada en diem “remullada”
02:57
that helps to start enzyme activity.
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i fa arrencar l’activitat enzimàtica.
02:59
And enzymes are the secret, kind of, ingredient in dough
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Els enzimes són l’ingredient secret, si en podem dir així, de la massa
03:02
that brings out flavor.
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i n’extreuen el gust.
03:04
It starts to release the sugars trapped in the starch.
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Alliberen els sucres atrapats al midó,
03:06
That's what enzymes are doing.
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això és el que fan els enzimes.
03:08
And so, if we can release some of those,
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Un cop alliberats
03:10
they become accessible to us in our palate.
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el nostre paladar pot accedir-hi.
03:12
They become accessible to the yeast as food.
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I el llevat pot nodrir-se’n.
03:15
They become accessible to the oven for caramelization
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I, al forn, es caramel•litzen
03:18
to give us a beautiful crust.
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i obtenim una bona crosta.
03:20
The other pre-dough
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L’altra pre-massa
03:22
that we make is fermented -- our pre-ferment.
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du llevat - la fem fermentar per avançat.
03:24
And it's made -- it can be a sourdough starter, or what we call a "biga"
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Pot ser de diversos tipus, una massa àcida, una "biga"
03:27
or any other kind of pre-fermented dough with a little yeast in it,
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o qualsevol massa fermentada amb un xic de llevat
03:30
and that starts to develop flavor also.
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i que també comenci a adquirir gust.
03:33
And on day two, we put those two pieces together. That's the epoxy.
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El segon dia les ajuntem totes dues. Vet aquí l’epoxi.
03:36
And we're hoping that, sort of, the
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El que volem és que
03:38
enzyme piece of dough
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la massa amb els enzimes
03:40
becomes the fuel pack for the leavened piece of dough,
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faci de combustible per la massa fermentada,
03:43
and when we put them together and add the final ingredients,
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i que, un cop barrejades amb la resta d’ingredients,
03:46
we can create a bread that does evoke
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n’obtinguem un pa que realment reflecteixi
03:48
the full potential of flavor trapped in the grain.
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tot el gust que, potencialment, hi ha en cada gra de cereal.
03:51
That's the challenge. Okay, so, now, what we --
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D’això és tracta. Bé, ara toca ...
03:53
in the journey of wheat, let's go back and look at these 12 stages.
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Tornem al blat. Parlem una mica de les 12 etapes.
03:57
I'm going to go through them very quickly and then revisit them.
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Primer les enumeraré i després donaré detalls.
03:59
Okay, we're going to start with the first stage.
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Comencem per la primera,
04:03
And this is what every student has to begin with.
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que també és el primer que cal que els estudiants facin.
04:06
Everyone who works in the culinary world knows that
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Tothom que ha treballat en una cuina sap que
04:08
the first stage of cooking is "mise en place,"
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el primer pas és la “mise en place”,
04:11
which is just a French way of saying, "get organized."
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que és com els francesos diuen “organitzar-se”.
04:16
Everything in its place. First stage.
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Cada cosa al seu lloc. Primera etapa.
04:19
So in baking we call it scaling -- weighing out the ingredients.
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Nosaltres en diem mesurar - pesar cada ingredient.
04:21
Stage two is mixing. We take the ingredients and we mix them.
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La segona etapa és fer la barreja. Agafem els ingredients i els barregem.
04:24
We have to develop the gluten.
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Cal que el gluten es formi.
04:26
There's no gluten in flour. There's only the potential for gluten.
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La farina no té gluten. Només té la capacitat de formar-lo.
04:29
Here's another kind of prefiguring of epoxy
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Això ja és una pista cap al mètode epoxi
04:32
because we've got glutenin and gliadin,
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perquè tenim glutenina i gliadina
04:34
neither of which are strong enough to make a good bread.
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i cap de les dues és prou forta com per fer bon pa.
04:37
But when they get hydrated and they bond to each other,
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Però un cop hidratades i connectades
04:40
they create a stronger molecule, a stronger protein we call gluten.
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creen una molècula més forta, una proteïna anomenada gluten.
04:44
And so we, in the mixing process,
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Durant la barreja,
04:46
have to develop the gluten,
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cal que el gluten es formi;
04:48
we have to activate the leaven or the yeast,
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cal activar el llevat - premsat o de massa mare -
04:51
and we have to essentially distribute all the ingredients evenly.
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i, bàsicament, cal distribuir els ingredients de manera homogènia.
04:54
Then we get into fermentation, the third stage,
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Després toca la fermentació, que és la tercera etapa,
04:56
which is really where the flavor develops.
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i és quan comença a aparèixer el gust.
04:58
The yeast comes alive and starts eating the sugars,
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El llevat pren vida i comença menjar-se els sucres,
05:01
creating carbon dioxide and alcohol --
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i produeix diòxid de carboni i alcohol.
05:03
essentially it's burping and sweating, which is what bread is.
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En altres paraules, fa rots i sua, que això és el pa:
05:06
It's yeast burps and sweat.
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rots i suor de llevat.
05:08
And somehow, this is transformed --
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I tot plegat es transforma,
05:10
the yeast burps and sweats are later transformed --
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els rots i la suor del llevat es transformaran,
05:13
and this is really getting to the heart of what makes bread so special
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i això és ben bé el que fa del pa quelcom de tan especial:
05:16
is that it is a transformational food,
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és un aliment ple de transformacions
05:18
and we're going to explore that in a minute.
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i en parlarem més d’aquí un moment.
05:20
But then, quickly through the next few stages.
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Però primer les altres etapes.
05:22
We, after it's fermented and it's developed,
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Un cop ha fermentat i pujat,
05:24
started to develop flavor and character,
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quan ja comença a tenir gust i caràcter,
05:26
we divide it into smaller units.
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dividim la massa en porcions.
05:28
And then we take those units and we shape them. We give them a little pre-shape,
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I a aquestes porcions els donem forma. Primer és com un esboç,
05:31
usually a round or a little torpedo shape, sometimes.
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una bola o, de vegades, una llançadora.
05:34
That's called "rounding."
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Això és “donar forma” a la massa.
05:36
And there's a short rest period. It can be for a few seconds.
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Tot seguit se la deixa reposar una estona. Poden ser uns quants segons,
05:39
It can be for 20 or 30 minutes. We call that resting or benching.
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o 20 o 30 minuts. És el primer repòs.
05:42
Then we go into final shaping,
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Després se li acaba de donar forma,
05:44
"panning" -- which means putting the shaped loaf on a pan.
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i ve l’emmotllat: es posa en un motlle.
05:48
This takes a second, but it's a distinctive stage.
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Només és un segon, però és una etapa més.
05:52
It can be in a basket. It can be in a loaf pan, but we pan it.
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Pot ser un cistell o una altra mena de motlle, però l’emmotllem.
05:56
And then, stage nine.
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I aquí arribem a la novena etapa.
05:58
The fermentation which started at stage three is continuing
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La fermentació primària, des de la tercera etapa, no s’ha aturat
06:01
through all these other stages. Again, developing more flavor.
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en cap moment. El gust s’ha anat reforçant.
06:04
The final fermentation takes place in stage nine.
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La fermentació es completa en aquesta etapa, la nou.
06:06
We call it "proofing."
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Es tracta de la fermentació secundària.
06:08
Proofing means to prove that the dough is alive.
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És la prova que la massa és viva.
06:11
And at stage nine we get the dough to the final shape,
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Ara li donem la forma definitiva
06:14
and it goes into the oven -- stage 10.
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i l’enfornem, que és la desena etapa.
06:16
Three transformations take place in the oven.
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Al forn es produiran tres transformacions.
06:19
The sugars in the dough caramelize in the crust.
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Els sucres de la massa caramel•litzen i formen la crosta.
06:22
They give us that beautiful brown crust.
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Una bona crosta ben daurada.
06:24
Only the crust can caramelize. It's the only place that gets hot enough.
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Només la crosta pot caramel•litzar: és l’única zona que s’escalfa prou.
06:27
Inside, the proteins --
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A l’interior, les proteïnes
06:29
this gluten -- coagulates.
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- el gluten - coagulen.
06:31
When it gets to about 160 degrees,
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Al voltant dels 160 graus,
06:33
the proteins all line up
and they create structure,
and they create structure,
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les proteïnes s’alineen i creen una estructura
06:35
the gluten structure --
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- l’estructura del gluten -
06:37
what ultimately we will call the crumb of the bread.
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que serà la molla del pa.
06:40
And the starches, when they reach about 180 degrees,
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Al voltant de 180 graus, el midó
06:42
gelatinize.
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gelatinitza.
06:44
And gelatinization is yet another
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I aquesta gelatinització es una altra
06:47
oven transformation.
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de les transformacions dins del forn.
06:49
Coagulation, caramelization and gelatinization --
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Coagulació, caramel•lització i gelatinització.
06:52
when the starch is thick and they absorb all the moisture that's around them,
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Quan el midó s’espesseix i absorbeix tota la humitat,
06:55
they -- they kind of swell, and then they burst.
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s’infla, com qui diu, i explota.
06:58
And they burst, and they spill their guts into the bread.
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Explota i les vísceres s’espargeixen per tot el pa.
07:01
So basically now we're eating yeast sweats --
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En resum, que mengem suor de llevat,
07:03
sweat, burps and starch guts.
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suor i rots, i vísceres de midó.
07:06
Again, transformed in stage 10 in the oven
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I tot això es transforma durant la desena etapa, al forn,
07:09
because what went into the oven as dough
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perquè enfornem la massa,
07:12
comes out in stage 11 as bread.
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però el que surt del forn a la etapa 11 ja és pa.
07:15
And stage 11, we call it cooling --
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I l’onzena etapa és el refredament,
07:17
because we never really eat the bread right away.
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perquè mai no ens mengem el pa immediatament.
07:19
There's a little carry-over baking.
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Hi ha una mica de cocció residual.
07:21
The proteins have to set up, strengthen and firm up.
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Les proteïnes s’han d’assentar, consolidar-se i afermar-se.
07:25
And then we have stage 12, which the textbooks call "packaging,"
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Després ve l’etapa 12, que als llibres en diuen empaquetar
07:29
but my students call "eating."
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i els meus estudiants en diuen menjar.
07:31
And so, we're going to be on our own journey today from wheat to eat,
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Avui farem el nostre propi recorregut del blat a la boca
07:34
and in a few minutes we will try this,
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i d’aquí una estona tastarem el pa.
07:36
and see if we have succeeded
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Veurem si hem complert
07:39
in fulfilling this baker's mission of pulling out flavor.
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la missió del forner: extreure tot el gust del cereal.
07:42
But I want to go back now and revisit these steps,
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Però abans vull tornar a parlar de les etapes
07:45
and talk about it from the standpoint of transformation,
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i fer-ho tenint les transformacions presents.
07:47
because I really believe that
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Perquè estic convençut
07:49
all things can be understood --
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que tot es pot entendre
07:52
and this is not my own idea. This goes back to the Scholastics and to the Ancients --
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- i no m’ho trec de la màniga, que ja en parlen els [filòsofs] escolàstics i clàssics -
07:55
that all things can be understood on four levels:
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que tot es pot entendre en quatre nivells:
07:57
the literal, the metaphoric or poetic level,
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el literal, el metafòric o poètic,
08:01
the political or ethical level.
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el polític o ètic,
08:04
And ultimately, the mystical or sometimes called the "anagogical" level.
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i, finalment, el místic o anagògic.
08:08
It's hard to get to those levels unless you go through the literal.
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És difícil accedir a tots aquest nivells sense passar pel literal.
08:11
In fact, Dante says you can't understand the three deeper levels
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De fet, Dante diu que és impossible entendre el tres nivells profunds
08:14
unless you first understand the literal level,
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si no s’entén el literal.
08:17
so that's why we're talking literally about bread.
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Per això estem parlant, literalment, de pa.
08:19
But let's kind of look at these stages again
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Però ens podem mirar totes les etapes amb uns altres ulls,
08:21
from the standpoint of connections to possibly a deeper level --
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cercant connexions a nivells més profunds ...
08:25
all in my quest for answering the question,
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Perquè estic mirant de respondre a la pregunta
08:27
"What is it about bread that's so special?"
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“Què fa que el pa sigui tan especial?”
08:30
And fulfilling this mission of evoking the full potential of flavor.
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i mirant d’aconseguir el pa més gustós possible.
08:34
Because what happens is,
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Perquè, al capdavall,
08:36
bread begins as wheat or any other grain.
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el pa comença sent blat, o un altre cereal.
08:39
But what's wheat? Wheat is a grass
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I què és el blat? El blat és una herba
08:41
that grows in the field.
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que creix al camp i,
08:43
And, like all grasses, at a certain point it puts out seeds.
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com totes les herbes, quan li toca, grana.
08:47
And we harvest those seeds, and those are the wheat kernels.
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En segar collim les llavors, que són els grans de blat.
08:50
Now, in order to harvest it -- I mean, what's harvesting?
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Però segar, què vol dir segar?
08:52
It's just a euphemism for killing, right?
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Vol dir matar, és un eufemisme, oi?
08:56
I mean, that's what's harvest -- we say we harvest the pig, you know?
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Perquè la collita és així: és com la matança del porc.
08:58
Yes, we slaughter, you know. Yes, that's life.
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Els sacrifiquem. Així és la vida.
09:01
We harvest the wheat,
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Seguem el blat
09:03
and in harvesting it, we kill it.
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i en segar-lo el matem.
09:05
Now, wheat is alive,
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El blat és viu i nosaltres
09:07
and as we harvest it, it gives up its seeds.
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el seguem per obtenir-ne la llavor.
09:11
Now, at least with seeds we have the potential for future life.
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Les llavors poden tornar a crear vida,
09:14
We can plant those in the ground.
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les podem plantar,
09:16
And we save some of those for the next generation.
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i de fet sempre se’n guarden per replantar.
09:18
But most of those seeds get crushed
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Però la majoria es molen
09:20
and turned into flour.
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i se’n fa farina.
09:22
And at that point, the wheat has suffered the ultimate indignity.
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Pel blat, això és la humiliació definitiva.
09:25
It's not only been killed,
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No només l’hem matat,
09:27
but it's been denied any potential for creating future life.
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a sobre li neguem la possibilitat de reviure:
09:30
So we turn it into flour.
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en fem farina.
09:33
So as I said, I think bread is a transformational food.
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Per això deia que el blat és un aliment ple de transformacions.
09:36
The first transformation -- and, by the way,
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La primera transformació ... Perquè quedi clar,
09:39
the definition of transformation for me is
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per mi, una transformació
09:41
a radical change from one thing into something else.
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és un canvi radical d’una cosa en una altra.
09:44
O.K.? Radical, not subtle.
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Entesos? Radical, no subtil.
09:46
Not like hot water made cold,
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No com aigua calenta que es refreda,
09:48
or cold water turned hot,
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ni com aigua freda que s’escalfa.
09:50
but water boiled off and becoming steam.
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Com aigua bullent que esdevé vapor.
09:53
That's a transformation, two different things.
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Això sí que és una transformació: hi ha dues coses diferents.
09:55
Well, in this case, the first transformation
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En el cas del blat, la primera transformació
09:57
is alive to dead.
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és de viu a mort.
10:00
I'd call that radical.
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Em sembla prou radical.
10:03
So, we've got now this flour.
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I el resultat és la farina.
10:06
And what do we do? We add some water.
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Què en fem? Hi afegim aigua.
10:08
In stage one, we weigh it.
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A la primera etapa, la pesem.
10:10
In stage two, we add water and salt to it, mix it together,
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A la segona, hi afegim aigua i sal, ho barregem
10:12
and we create something that we call "clay."
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i així creem quelcom anomenat “argila”,
10:14
It's like clay.
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perquè és com argila.
10:16
And we infuse that clay
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I a aquesta argila
10:18
with an ingredient that we call "leaven."
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hi afegim llevat. En aquest cas llevat premsat,
10:21
In this case, it's yeast, but yeast is leaven. What does leaven mean?
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que és una mena de llevat com una altre. Què vol dir llevat?
10:24
Leaven comes from the root word that means enliven --
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“Llevat” ve d’una arrel que vol dir animar
10:28
to vivify, to bring to life.
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- vivificar, donar vida.
10:32
By the way, what's the Hebrew word for clay? Adam.
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Per cert, sabeu com es diu argila en hebreu? Adam.
10:36
You see, the baker, in this moment,
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Ja ho veieu, el forner, a aquestes alçades,
10:38
has become, in a sense,
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s’ha convertit, com qui diu,
10:40
sort of, the God of his dough, you know, and his dough, well,
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en el déu de la massa, i la massa, bé,
10:43
while it's not an intelligent life form, is now alive.
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no és que sigui una forma de vida intel•ligent, però és viva.
10:46
And we know it's alive because in stage three,
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I sabem que és viva perquè durant la tercera etapa
10:48
it grows. Growth is the proof of life.
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creix. El creixement és prova de vida.
10:51
And while it's growing, all these
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I mentre va creixent, totes aquestes
10:53
literal transformations are taking place.
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transformacions literals es produeixen.
10:55
Enzymes are breaking forth sugars.
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Els enzimes alliberen els sucres,
10:57
Yeast is eating sugar and
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el llevat se’ls menja
10:59
turning it into carbon dioxide and alcohol.
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i emet diòxid de carboni i alcohol;
11:02
Bacteria is in there, eating the same sugars,
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les bactèries també se’ls mengen
11:04
turning them into acids.
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i els converteixen en àcids.
11:06
In other words, personality and character's being developed in this dough
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En altres paraules, la massa comença adquirir personalitat i caràcter
11:09
under the watchful gaze of the baker.
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sota la mirada atenta del forner.
11:12
And the baker's choices all along the way
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I cada decisió del forner
11:14
determine the outcome of the product.
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afecta el producte final.
11:18
A subtle change in temperature -- a subtle change in time --
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Una petita variació de temperatura... de temps...
11:21
it's all about a balancing act between time, temperature
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Tot depèn del subtil equilibri entre temps, temperatura
11:23
and ingredients. That's the art of baking.
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i ingredients. L’art de fer pa és això.
11:25
So all these things are determined by the baker,
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El forner estableix tots aquest paràmetres,
11:27
and the bread goes through some stages, and characters develop.
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el pa passa per certes etapes i adquireix caràcter.
11:30
And then we divide it, and this one big piece of dough
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Després el dividim: la massa
11:32
is divided into smaller units, and each of those units
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es divideix en peces i el forner
11:34
are given shape by the baker.
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dóna forma a cada peça.
11:36
And as they're shaped, they're raised again,
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I mentrestant, cada peça torna a llevar
11:38
all along proving that they're alive,
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i això demostra que estan vives,
11:40
and developing character.
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i van adquirint caràcter.
11:42
And at stage 10, we take it to the oven.
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La desena etapa és l’enfornada.
11:45
It's still dough. Nobody eats bread dough --
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La massa encara és massa. Ningú menja massa de pa...
11:47
a few people do, I think, but not too many.
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Vaja, segur que algú ho fa però són pocs.
11:49
I've met some dough eaters, but --
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En conec alguns, però...
11:51
it's not the staff of life, right? Bread is the staff of life.
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No diem “la nostra massa de cada dia”, oi? És “el nostre pa”.
11:55
But dough is what we're working with,
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Però de moment només tenim massa
11:57
and we take that dough to the oven,
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i l’enfornem.
11:59
and it goes into the oven. As soon as the interior temperature of that dough
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Quan la temperatura interior de la massa
12:03
crosses the threshold of 140 degrees,
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passa dels 140 ºC
12:05
it passes what we call the "thermal death point."
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es creua el llindar del “punt de mort tèrmica”
12:10
Students love that TDP. They think it's the name of a video game.
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Als alumnes els encanta això del PMT, és pensen que és el títol d’un videojoc.
12:13
But it's the thermal death point -- all life ceases there.
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Però és el punt de mort tèrmica: és on s’acaba la vida.
12:16
The yeast, whose mission it has been up till now to raise the dough,
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El llevat, que ha fet pujar la massa,
12:20
to enliven it, to vivify it,
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que l’ha animada, que l’hi ha donat vida...
12:22
in order to complete its mission,
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Per completar la tasca que li correspon,
12:24
which is also to turn this dough into bread,
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que és convertir la massa en pa,
12:26
has to give up its life.
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el llevat ha morir.
12:28
So you see the symbolism at work? It's starting to come forth a little bit, you know.
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Veieu el simbolisme? Poc a poc es va aclarint.
12:31
It's starting to make sense to me --
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Començo a treure’n l’entrellat:
12:35
what goes in is dough,
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enfornem massa
12:37
what comes out is bread --
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i treiem pa,
12:39
or it goes in alive,
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entra viva
12:41
comes out dead.
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i surt mort.
12:43
Third transformation. First transformation, alive to dead.
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És la tercera transformació. La primera: de viu a mort.
12:46
Second transformation, dead brought back to life.
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La segona: el mort ressuscita.
12:50
Third transformation, alive to dead --
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La tercera: de viu a mort, però també
12:52
but dough to bread.
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de massa a pa.
12:55
Or another analogy would be,
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També podríem comparar-ho
12:57
a caterpillar has been turned into a butterfly.
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amb una eruga que es transforma en papallona.
13:00
And it's what comes out of the oven
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I el que surt del forn
13:02
that is what we call the staff of life.
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és “el nostre pa de cada dia”.
13:05
This is the product
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Això és l’aliment
13:07
that
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que
13:10
everyone in the world eats, that is so difficult to give up.
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tothom, a tot el món, menja... al que tant costa renunciar.
13:14
It's so
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És quelcom
13:16
deeply embedded in our psyches that
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de tan profundament arrelat en la nostra psique
13:19
bread is used as a symbol for life.
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que el pa es fa servir com símbol de vida,
13:22
It's used as a symbol for transformation.
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com símbol de transformació.
13:27
And so, as we get to stage 12 and we partake of that,
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I així, quan arribem a l’etapa 12 i el compartim,
13:30
again completing the life cycle,
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completem un cop més el cercle de la vida.
13:33
you know, we have a chance to essentially ingest that --
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Mengem quelcom que ens nodreix
13:36
it nurtures us, and we continue to carry on
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i ens permet tirar endavant
13:39
and have opportunities to ponder
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i ens dóna l’oportunitat
13:41
things like this.
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de plantejar-nos tot això.
13:43
So this is what I've learned from bread.
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Això és el que he après del pa,
13:45
This is what bread has taught me in my journey.
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el que el pa m’ha ensenyat en aquest viatge.
13:48
And what we're going to attempt to do
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El que mirarem de fer
13:50
with this bread here, again,
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amb aquest pa, deiem,
13:52
is to use, in addition to everything we talked about,
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a més de tot el que ja he comentat ...
13:55
this bread we're going to call "spent grain bread"
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D’aquest pa en dic “pa de cereals maltats”
13:58
because, as you know, bread-making is very similar to beer-making.
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perquè, com ja sabeu, l’elaboració del pa i de la cervesa son molt similars.
14:01
Beer is basically liquid bread,
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Bàsicament, la cervesa és pa líquid
14:03
or bread is solid beer.
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o el pa és cervesa sòlida.
14:05
And --
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I ...
14:07
(Laughter)
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(Riallades)
14:08
they -- they're invented around the same time. I think beer came first.
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Tots dos és van inventar a la mateixa època, més o menys. Primer la cervesa, diria.
14:11
And the Egyptian who was tending the beer fell asleep
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Un egipci que feia cervesa es va ensopir
14:14
in the hot, Egyptian sun, and it turned into bread.
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un dia de sol i calda, i se li va tornar pa.
14:16
But we've got this bread,
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Però tornem a aquest pa
14:18
and what I did here is to try to, again,
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i al que he mirat de fer que és, com deia,
14:20
evoke even more flavor from this grain,
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extreure tot el gust dels cereals.
14:24
was we've added into it the spent grain from beer-making.
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Per això hi afegit el cereals maltats de fer cervesa.
14:27
And if you make this bread, you can use any kind of spent grain from any type of beer.
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Qualsevol resta de cereals de qualsevol cervesa serveix.
14:31
I like dark spent grain. Today we're using a light spent grain
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A mi m’agraden els malts foscos. El d’avui és clar,
14:34
that's actually from, like, some kind of a lager of some sort --
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ve d’algun tipus de cervesa "lager", o per l’estil
14:37
a light lager or an ale -- that is wheat and barley that's been toasted.
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- una "lager" lleugera o potser "ale" – una barreja de blat i ordi torrats.
14:41
In other words, the beer-maker knows also how to evoke flavor from the grains
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Vull dir que els cervesers també saben extreure el gust dels cereals
14:44
by using sprouting and malting and roasting.
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germinant-los, maltant-los i torrant-los.
14:47
We're going to take some of that, and put it into the bread.
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Això ho aprofitarem i ens en servirem per fa pa.
14:49
So now we not only have a high-fiber bread,
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Així que, com si aquest pa no tingués prou fibra,
14:52
but now fiber on top of fiber.
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n’hi afegim encara més.
14:54
And so this is, again, hopefully
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I del què és tracta, el què espero,
14:57
not only a healthy bread,
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és que no només sigui un pa saludable
14:59
but a bread that you will enjoy.
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si no que el trobeu bo.
15:01
So, if I, kind of, break this bread,
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I si ara que el parteixo
15:04
maybe we can share this now a little bit here.
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en repartiu una mica per aquí,
15:07
We'll start a little piece here,
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i una mica per allà,
15:09
and I'm going to take a little piece here --
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i en duc una altre tros per allà ...
15:11
I think I'd better taste it myself before you have it at lunch.
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Val més que el tasti abans que us el serveixin per dinar.
15:14
I'll leave you
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I me’n vaig
15:17
with what I call the baker's blessing.
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donant-vos la benedicció del forner:
15:19
May your crust be crisp,
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“Que la crosta sempre us cruixi
15:21
and your bread always rise.
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i el pa us pugi bé”.
15:24
Thank you.
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Gràcies.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Peter Reinhart - BakerMaster breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread.
Why you should listen
Peter Reinhart's food work began as ministry outreach and later became a full-fledged culinary and teaching career. Both an educator and lay minister, his lessons focus on both secular and spiritual education. One of his books, Bread Upon the Waters: A Pilgrimage Toward Self Discovery and Spiritual Truth is first in a series of books exploring nourishment in terms of food and one's life mission.
Reinhart is founder of the award-winning Brother Juniper's Bakery in Santa Rosa, California. He's now a full-time faculty member in the International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson and Wales University. He has also developed a line of frozen gourmet pizzas, calzones, toaster snacks and bagels for Amy's Kitchen.
His latest book is Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor.
Peter Reinhart | Speaker | TED.com