Taste3 2008
Peter Reinhart: The art and craft of bread
彼得·瑞因哈特谈面包
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Readability: 3.4
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一批批面包，一层层面包皮……烘焙大师彼得·瑞因哈特与我们分享他对我们日常食用的面包的想法。这种由两对绝佳搭档--小麦和酵母，面团和热度--打造的食品，是他的挚爱。可别嘴馋哦。
Peter Reinhart - Baker
Master breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread. Full bio
Master breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:16
This is a wheat bread, a whole wheat bread,
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这是一个小麦面包，全麦面包，
00:18
and it's made with a new technique
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而且还是用一种新技术制成的。
00:20
that I've been playing around with,
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我一直在玩这个技术，
00:22
and developing and writing about which, for lack of a better name,
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还出了书。由于暂时还没有一个更好的名字，
00:24
we call the epoxy method.
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我们暂且称之为环氧树脂烘焙法。
00:26
And I call it an epoxy method because --
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我知道这么称呼它不免让人有些倒胃，
00:28
it's not very appetizing. I understand that --
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那么我为什么这么叫它呢？
00:30
but -- but
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为什么呢？
00:32
if you think about epoxy, what's epoxy?
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倘若你想想环氧树脂是什么，
00:34
It's two resins that are, sort of,
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它其实是两种树脂，而这两种树脂
00:36
in and of themselves -- neither of which can make glue,
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本身都是无法用来制成胶水的，
00:39
but when you put the two together,
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然而你要是把两者混合到一起，
00:41
something happens. A bond takes place,
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它们就会发生反应。两者间形成了一个键，
00:42
and you get this very strong, powerful
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最终合成了这种十分强力的
00:44
adhesive.
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粘合剂。
00:46
Well, in this technique,
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其实，在这项技术当中，
00:48
what I've tried to do is kind of
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我想要试着去做的，
00:50
gather all of the knowledge that the bread-baking world,
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只是将面包烘培界的所有知识整合起来。
00:52
the artisan bread-baking community,
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这项知识，是整个业界
00:54
has been trying to accumulate over the last 20 years or so --
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自美国面包复兴后至今的大约20年间，
00:57
since we've been engaged in a bread renaissance in America --
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所尝试积累起来的。
01:00
and put it together to come up with a method
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再将其结合起来，
01:03
that would help to take whole-grain breads.
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得出了一个能做出全麦面包的方法。
01:06
And let's face it, everyone's trying to move towards whole grains.
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事实是，每个人都尝试着多吃全麦面包。
01:09
We finally, after 40 years of knowing
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如今，在我们40年前便已知道
01:12
that wholegrain was a healthier option,
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全麦面包要更加健康的情况下，
01:14
we're finally getting to the point where we actually are tipping over
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终于到取得重大突破的时候了，
01:17
and attempting to actually eat them.
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我们终于有机会真正去吃全麦面包了。
01:19
(Laughter)
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（全场大笑）
01:21
The challenge, though, for a wholegrain baker is,
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然而，对全麦面包师来说，
01:23
you know, how do you make it taste good?
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怎样把面包做得美味，是一个挑战。
01:26
Because whole grain -- it's easy with white flour
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用白面粉做出美味的面包很容易，
01:28
to make a good-tasting bread. White flour is sweet.
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因为白面粉本身是甜的。
01:31
It's mainly starch, and starch, when you break it down --
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白面粉主要是淀粉，而如果你分解淀粉的话
01:34
what is starch? It's -- thank you -- sugar, yes.
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你会得到什么？那就是--谢谢--没错，是糖。
01:37
So a baker, and a good baker,
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所以一个面包师，一个优秀的面包师，
01:39
knows how to pull or draw forth
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懂得怎样去利用淀粉中的糖分
01:42
the inherent sugar trapped in the starch.
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来做好面包。
01:45
With whole grain bread, you have other obstacles.
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但如果要做全麦面包，就会有其他障碍。
01:47
You've got bran, which is probably the healthiest part of the bread for us,
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面包糠算得上是面包中最利于我们健康的部分了，
01:50
or the fiber for us because it is just loaded with fiber,
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或者说，纤维是最利于我们健康的部分，因为面包糠中富含纤维，
01:53
for the bran is fiber.
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或者说面包糠就是纤维。
01:55
It's got germ. Those are the good things,
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当中还有胚芽。这些都是好东西，
01:57
but those aren't the tastiest parts of the wheat.
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然而却不是小麦中味道最好的部分。
01:59
So whole grain breads historically
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因此，全麦面包历来
02:02
have had sort of this onus of being health food breads,
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被视为一种健康
02:04
and people don't like to eat,
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但人们却不喜欢吃的面包
02:06
quote, health food. They like to eat healthy and healthily,
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所谓的健康食品。他们喜欢以健康的方式吃健康的食品，
02:09
but when we think of something as a health food,
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然而当我们想到健康食品的时候，
02:11
we think of it as something we eat out of obligation,
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我们就会觉得自己是出于义务去吃这种食品的，
02:14
not out of passion and love for the flavor.
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而非出于对其美味的热衷和喜爱。
02:17
And ultimately, the challenge of the baker,
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而最终，对于面包师，
02:20
the challenge of every culinary student, of every chef,
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对于每个学徒，每个厨师来说，最大的挑战，
02:22
is to deliver flavor.
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都在于要展现美味。
02:25
Flavor is king. Flavor rules.
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美味才是王道！美味至上！
02:27
I call it the flavor rule. Flavor rules.
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我称之为“美味定律”。
02:29
And -- and
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还有就是
02:31
you can get somebody to eat something that's good for them once,
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对一个人身体有好处的东西，你只能引诱他们吃一次。
02:34
but they won't eat it again if they don't like it, right?
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但要是他们不喜欢的话，他们也就不会再吃一次了，对吧？
02:37
So, this is the challenge for this bread.
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因此，这就是这种面包所要面对的挑战。
02:39
We're going to try this at lunch, and
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午餐的时候我们可以尝试一下这种面包，
02:41
I'll explain a bit more about it,
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我会详细解释它是怎么做的。
02:43
but it's made not only with two types of pre-doughs --
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实际上，这种面包并不仅仅是用两种面团做成的
02:46
this attempt, again, at bringing out flavor
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这种带出味道的尝试
02:48
is to make a piece of dough
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诀窍在于在发酵的前一天，
02:50
the day before that is not leavened.
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就做好面团。
02:53
It's just dough that is wet.
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就是这种湿面团，
02:55
It's hydrated dough we call "the soaker" --
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这种我们叫做“酒鬼”的吸了水的面团，
02:57
that helps to start enzyme activity.
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推动了酶的反应。
02:59
And enzymes are the secret, kind of, ingredient in dough
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而酶正是让面团味道出彩的
03:02
that brings out flavor.
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秘密成分。
03:04
It starts to release the sugars trapped in the starch.
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它释放淀粉中的糖分。
03:06
That's what enzymes are doing.
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这是酶的工作。
03:08
And so, if we can release some of those,
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如果我们能释放出那些糖分，
03:10
they become accessible to us in our palate.
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我们的味蕾就更容易接受它们。
03:12
They become accessible to the yeast as food.
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它们也是酵母的食物。
03:15
They become accessible to the oven for caramelization
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它们在烤箱中焦化，
03:18
to give us a beautiful crust.
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成为漂亮香脆的面包皮。
03:20
The other pre-dough
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另一种预备面团，
03:22
that we make is fermented -- our pre-ferment.
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是发酵好了的，
03:24
And it's made -- it can be a sourdough starter, or what we call a "biga"
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它是一种酸性生面团，和其它加有酵母的预备面团一样，
03:27
or any other kind of pre-fermented dough with a little yeast in it,
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被称为biga，
03:30
and that starts to develop flavor also.
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有特殊的香味。
03:33
And on day two, we put those two pieces together. That's the epoxy.
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准备好面团的第二天，我们把这两个面团混合，得到环氧树脂。
03:36
And we're hoping that, sort of, the
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我们希望，
03:38
enzyme piece of dough
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面团中的酶，
03:40
becomes the fuel pack for the leavened piece of dough,
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能成为发酵面团中的能量包，
03:43
and when we put them together and add the final ingredients,
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当我们混合面团并加入最后几样原料时，
03:46
we can create a bread that does evoke
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我们能制造出一种，
03:48
the full potential of flavor trapped in the grain.
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能够充分释放谷物香气的面包。
03:51
That's the challenge. Okay, so, now, what we --
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这是个挑战。好吧，现在，
03:53
in the journey of wheat, let's go back and look at these 12 stages.
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我们回顾一下全麦之旅的12个阶段。
03:57
I'm going to go through them very quickly and then revisit them.
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我先迅速过一遍，之后再回来详尽解释。
03:59
Okay, we're going to start with the first stage.
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我们从第一阶段开始。
04:03
And this is what every student has to begin with.
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这是每个学徒的第一节课。
04:06
Everyone who works in the culinary world knows that
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每个烹饪界的人都知道，
04:08
the first stage of cooking is "mise en place,"
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烹饪的第一步是“mise en place”
04:11
which is just a French way of saying, "get organized."
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法语里的意思就是，“各就各位“。
04:16
Everything in its place. First stage.
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每一样东西都各就各位。这是第一步。
04:19
So in baking we call it scaling -- weighing out the ingredients.
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在烘培中我们称之为称量：准备一定量的原料。
04:21
Stage two is mixing. We take the ingredients and we mix them.
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第二步是混合：把原料混合在一起。
04:24
We have to develop the gluten.
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我们需要面筋。
04:26
There's no gluten in flour. There's only the potential for gluten.
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得到面筋需要面粉，但面粉中本身没有面筋。
04:29
Here's another kind of prefiguring of epoxy
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这是环氧树脂的另一个“前身”。
04:32
because we've got glutenin and gliadin,
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我们有现成的谷蛋白和醇溶蛋白，
04:34
neither of which are strong enough to make a good bread.
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这两样都不能单独制造出好面包。
04:37
But when they get hydrated and they bond to each other,
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然而一旦它们得到充分湿润，它们便彼此结合，
04:40
they create a stronger molecule, a stronger protein we call gluten.
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一种更强韧的分子诞生了，我们称之为面筋。
04:44
And so we, in the mixing process,
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所以我们在这个混合过程中，
04:46
have to develop the gluten,
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必须创造出面筋，
04:48
we have to activate the leaven or the yeast,
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我们得唤醒酵母，
04:51
and we have to essentially distribute all the ingredients evenly.
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同时还必须均匀混合原料，
04:54
Then we get into fermentation, the third stage,
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然后我们进入发酵阶段，这是第三步。
04:56
which is really where the flavor develops.
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香味正是从这一步酝酿出来的。
04:58
The yeast comes alive and starts eating the sugars,
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酵母们被唤醒，开始吞食糖原，
05:01
creating carbon dioxide and alcohol --
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释放二氧化碳和酒精，
05:03
essentially it's burping and sweating, which is what bread is.
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就像是吃饭吃得满头大汗，到头来再打个饱嗝，就得到了面包。
05:06
It's yeast burps and sweat.
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面包就是酵母的饱嗝和汗。
05:08
And somehow, this is transformed --
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然后就发生了某种转型：
05:10
the yeast burps and sweats are later transformed --
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我们差不多到最关键的部分了，
05:13
and this is really getting to the heart of what makes bread so special
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这个转型是面包如此特别的关键，
05:16
is that it is a transformational food,
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面包是一种转型食品。
05:18
and we're going to explore that in a minute.
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我们一会儿再来研究这个过程。
05:20
But then, quickly through the next few stages.
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接着的几个阶段，
05:22
We, after it's fermented and it's developed,
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当面团慢慢发酵、成长，
05:24
started to develop flavor and character,
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开始形成其独特的味道和性格，
05:26
we divide it into smaller units.
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我们把大面团分成小面团。
05:28
And then we take those units and we shape them. We give them a little pre-shape,
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我们给小面团塑型，粗略地捏出个形状，
05:31
usually a round or a little torpedo shape, sometimes.
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通常不是圆形的就是梭子形的，
05:34
That's called "rounding."
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这一步叫做“整形”。
05:36
And there's a short rest period. It can be for a few seconds.
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然后稍事休息一会儿，可能是几秒钟，
05:39
It can be for 20 or 30 minutes. We call that resting or benching.
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也可能是二三十分钟。我们称之为“松弛”。
05:42
Then we go into final shaping,
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然后我们进入最后的塑型阶段，
05:44
"panning" -- which means putting the shaped loaf on a pan.
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“摆盘”，意思就是把整形好的面包放在盘里。
05:48
This takes a second, but it's a distinctive stage.
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这不用多久，但也是不可取代的一个步骤。
05:52
It can be in a basket. It can be in a loaf pan, but we pan it.
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可能个篮子，也可能是面包盘，但我们总得摆。
05:56
And then, stage nine.
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然后，第九步。
05:58
The fermentation which started at stage three is continuing
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发酵从第三步开始，一直持续至今，
06:01
through all these other stages. Again, developing more flavor.
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味道更加丰满了。
06:04
The final fermentation takes place in stage nine.
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最后的发酵在第九步发生。
06:06
We call it "proofing."
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我们称为“二次发酵”
06:08
Proofing means to prove that the dough is alive.
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二次发酵按字面理解，就是证明一下面团是在呼吸的。
06:11
And at stage nine we get the dough to the final shape,
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在第九步我们得到最终整形后的面团，
06:14
and it goes into the oven -- stage 10.
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把它放进烤箱，这是第十步。
06:16
Three transformations take place in the oven.
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在烤箱中，会发生三个转变。
06:19
The sugars in the dough caramelize in the crust.
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面团中的糖分，在面包皮中焦化，
06:22
They give us that beautiful brown crust.
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为我们展现美丽的棕色表皮。
06:24
Only the crust can caramelize. It's the only place that gets hot enough.
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只有表皮会发生焦化，只有这里会足够热。
06:27
Inside, the proteins --
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在面团内部，
06:29
this gluten -- coagulates.
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蛋白质，即面筋，发生凝结反应。
06:31
When it gets to about 160 degrees,
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大概160度时，
06:33
the proteins all line up
and they create structure,
and they create structure,
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所有蛋白质分子自动排队，
06:35
the gluten structure --
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形成筋状结构，
06:37
what ultimately we will call the crumb of the bread.
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也就是我们最终看到的面包屑。
06:40
And the starches, when they reach about 180 degrees,
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180度时，
06:42
gelatinize.
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淀粉分子发生凝胶反应。
06:44
And gelatinization is yet another
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凝胶反应，
06:47
oven transformation.
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还不是最后一个发生在烤箱里的转变。
06:49
Coagulation, caramelization and gelatinization --
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凝结，焦化和凝胶反应，
06:52
when the starch is thick and they absorb all the moisture that's around them,
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当厚厚的淀粉吸光了周围所有的水分，
06:55
they -- they kind of swell, and then they burst.
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他们膨胀，然后自爆了。
06:58
And they burst, and they spill their guts into the bread.
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他们自爆了，然后把自己的内脏留在了面包里。
07:01
So basically now we're eating yeast sweats --
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现在我们可以说，我们在吃酵母的汗液，
07:03
sweat, burps and starch guts.
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饱嗝，还有淀粉的内脏。
07:06
Again, transformed in stage 10 in the oven
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第十步中，烤箱内又发生了一个转变，
07:09
because what went into the oven as dough
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在第十一步中
07:12
comes out in stage 11 as bread.
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面团出烤箱时，变成了面包。
07:15
And stage 11, we call it cooling --
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第十一步，我们叫放凉，
07:17
because we never really eat the bread right away.
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因为我们基本上从来不吃刚出炉的面包，
07:19
There's a little carry-over baking.
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还有些后续工作要搞定。
07:21
The proteins have to set up, strengthen and firm up.
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蛋白质必须重组、强化，变得更加紧致。
07:25
And then we have stage 12, which the textbooks call "packaging,"
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然后是第十二步，教科书上都称之为“包装”，
07:29
but my students call "eating."
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但是我的学生们都称之为“吃吧”。
07:31
And so, we're going to be on our own journey today from wheat to eat,
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所以我们今天的全麦之旅，就是从麦子，到吃，
07:34
and in a few minutes we will try this,
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我们一会儿就可以开始了，
07:36
and see if we have succeeded
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看看我们是否会成功地
07:39
in fulfilling this baker's mission of pulling out flavor.
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完成一个烘培师完整表达香味的使命。
07:42
But I want to go back now and revisit these steps,
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但我还想再回顾一下这些步骤，
07:45
and talk about it from the standpoint of transformation,
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从转变的角度再看看究竟发生了什么。
07:47
because I really believe that
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因为我相信，
07:49
all things can be understood --
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所有事物都是能被弄明白的，
07:52
and this is not my own idea. This goes back to the Scholastics and to the Ancients --
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这不是我一个人的想法。这可以回溯到古代哲学家的时代，
07:55
that all things can be understood on four levels:
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所有的事情都可以在四个层面上被理解：
07:57
the literal, the metaphoric or poetic level,
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文字层面，隐喻或者诗化层面，
08:01
the political or ethical level.
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政治或者道德层面，
08:04
And ultimately, the mystical or sometimes called the "anagogical" level.
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以及最终的隐秘层面，或者叫做“类比”层面。
08:08
It's hard to get to those levels unless you go through the literal.
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如果不能在文字层面理解，那么其他层面也很难达到。
08:11
In fact, Dante says you can't understand the three deeper levels
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实际上，丹特认为，除非你理解了字面意思，
08:14
unless you first understand the literal level,
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否则根本不可能在另外三个层面达到更深的理解。
08:17
so that's why we're talking literally about bread.
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这就是为什么我们首先要在直观上理解面包。
08:19
But let's kind of look at these stages again
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让我们更深一步地回顾这些步骤，
08:21
from the standpoint of connections to possibly a deeper level --
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试图从更深层次上去理解它们，
08:25
all in my quest for answering the question,
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这都是为了回答这个问题：
08:27
"What is it about bread that's so special?"
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“面包到底有什么特别的？”
08:30
And fulfilling this mission of evoking the full potential of flavor.
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以及圆满完成激发其香味的任务。
08:34
Because what happens is,
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整个过程是这样发生的，
08:36
bread begins as wheat or any other grain.
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面包始于小麦，或者其他谷物，
08:39
But what's wheat? Wheat is a grass
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但什么是小麦？小麦是一种草，
08:41
that grows in the field.
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长在地里。
08:43
And, like all grasses, at a certain point it puts out seeds.
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像所有的草一样，到了一定时间它会散播种子。
08:47
And we harvest those seeds, and those are the wheat kernels.
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我们收获这些种子，得到麦粒。
08:50
Now, in order to harvest it -- I mean, what's harvesting?
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为了收获它---对了，什么是收获？
08:52
It's just a euphemism for killing, right?
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收获只是杀掉的委婉说法，对吧？
08:56
I mean, that's what's harvest -- we say we harvest the pig, you know?
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你知道的，我们不说杀猪，我们只说收获猪肉。
08:58
Yes, we slaughter, you know. Yes, that's life.
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是啊，我们是屠夫，这就是生活。
09:01
We harvest the wheat,
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我们收获麦粒，
09:03
and in harvesting it, we kill it.
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说是收获，其实就是杀掉它。
09:05
Now, wheat is alive,
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麦子是有生命的，
09:07
and as we harvest it, it gives up its seeds.
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当我们收获它时，它奉献了种子。
09:11
Now, at least with seeds we have the potential for future life.
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我们有了种子，未来的生活似乎有了保障，
09:14
We can plant those in the ground.
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因为我们可以把种子种在地里，
09:16
And we save some of those for the next generation.
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同时再为后代存了一些种子。
09:18
But most of those seeds get crushed
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但大多数种子，被研磨，
09:20
and turned into flour.
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变成面粉。
09:22
And at that point, the wheat has suffered the ultimate indignity.
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此时麦粒们刚经历了天大的侮辱。
09:25
It's not only been killed,
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这已经不仅仅是被杀了，
09:27
but it's been denied any potential for creating future life.
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它们同时被剥夺了创造美好未来生活的机会。
09:30
So we turn it into flour.
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我们把它变成了面粉。
09:33
So as I said, I think bread is a transformational food.
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所以像我之前说的，我认为面包是一种转型食品。
09:36
The first transformation -- and, by the way,
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顺便提一下，
09:39
the definition of transformation for me is
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我对转型的定义是，
09:41
a radical change from one thing into something else.
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从一个事物到另一个事物的彻底的改变。
09:44
O.K.? Radical, not subtle.
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彻底的改变，不是一点点。
09:46
Not like hot water made cold,
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不是说热水变成冷水，
09:48
or cold water turned hot,
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或者冷水变成热水那种改变，
09:50
but water boiled off and becoming steam.
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但是水烧开变成蒸汽，
09:53
That's a transformation, two different things.
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是一种转型，这是两个不同的东西。
09:55
Well, in this case, the first transformation
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在面包这个例子中，第一个转型，
09:57
is alive to dead.
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是从生到死。
10:00
I'd call that radical.
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这个改变是彻底的。
10:03
So, we've got now this flour.
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我们现在有了面粉。
10:06
And what do we do? We add some water.
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下面我们该做什么？加水。
10:08
In stage one, we weigh it.
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在步骤一中，我们称重。
10:10
In stage two, we add water and salt to it, mix it together,
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在步骤二中，我们加入水和盐，混合，
10:12
and we create something that we call "clay."
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得到面包糊。
10:14
It's like clay.
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像粘土一样。
10:16
And we infuse that clay
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我们在面糊里，
10:18
with an ingredient that we call "leaven."
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加入酵母。
10:21
In this case, it's yeast, but yeast is leaven. What does leaven mean?
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酵母帮助发酵。不过发酵是什么意思？
10:24
Leaven comes from the root word that means enliven --
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“发酵”的词根意思是“使活跃”，
10:28
to vivify, to bring to life.
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使有生机。
10:32
By the way, what's the Hebrew word for clay? Adam.
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顺便说一下，粘土在希伯来语里怎么说？亚当。
10:36
You see, the baker, in this moment,
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你看，此时的烘培者，
10:38
has become, in a sense,
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某种意义上，
10:40
sort of, the God of his dough, you know, and his dough, well,
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成为了面团的上帝，而且他的面包团，
10:43
while it's not an intelligent life form, is now alive.
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原本并非一种有智慧的生命形式，现在却变得活生生了。
10:46
And we know it's alive because in stage three,
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我们知道它有生命了，因为在步骤三，
10:48
it grows. Growth is the proof of life.
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面团发起来了。这就是生命的证明。
10:51
And while it's growing, all these
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当它逐渐变大时，
10:53
literal transformations are taking place.
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许多字面上的转变在进行着。
10:55
Enzymes are breaking forth sugars.
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酶在分解糖，
10:57
Yeast is eating sugar and
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酵母在吃糖，
10:59
turning it into carbon dioxide and alcohol.
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同时释放二氧化碳和酒精。
11:02
Bacteria is in there, eating the same sugars,
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也有细菌，它们也抢糖吃，
11:04
turning them into acids.
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把糖变成酸。
11:06
In other words, personality and character's being developed in this dough
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换句话说，在烘培者的密切关注下，
11:09
under the watchful gaze of the baker.
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面团的性格形成了。
11:12
And the baker's choices all along the way
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烘培者在这一系列过程中所进行的选择，
11:14
determine the outcome of the product.
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决定了产品最终的结果。
11:18
A subtle change in temperature -- a subtle change in time --
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温度、时间的微妙改变，
11:21
it's all about a balancing act between time, temperature
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一切都与时间，温度，还有原料之间
11:23
and ingredients. That's the art of baking.
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的平衡有关。这就是烘培的艺术。
11:25
So all these things are determined by the baker,
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所以一切都由烘培者决定，
11:27
and the bread goes through some stages, and characters develop.
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面包经过这些阶段，逐渐形成了自己的性格。
11:30
And then we divide it, and this one big piece of dough
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然后我们分割它，一大团面，
11:32
is divided into smaller units, and each of those units
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被切成小分，每一小份，
11:34
are given shape by the baker.
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都由烘培者塑型。
11:36
And as they're shaped, they're raised again,
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在整型时，它们再一次成长，
11:38
all along proving that they're alive,
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再一次证明它们是有生命的，
11:40
and developing character.
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同时形成了性格。
11:42
And at stage 10, we take it to the oven.
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在步骤十里，我们把它放入烤箱。
11:45
It's still dough. Nobody eats bread dough --
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它仍然是面团，没人会吃面团的，
11:47
a few people do, I think, but not too many.
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当然可能有人会吃，不过我想不会太多。
11:49
I've met some dough eaters, but --
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我遇到过吃生面团的人，不过，
11:51
it's not the staff of life, right? Bread is the staff of life.
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这不属于日常生活对吧？面包，是很日常生活的。
11:55
But dough is what we're working with,
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我们处理面团，
11:57
and we take that dough to the oven,
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把它送入烤箱，
11:59
and it goes into the oven. As soon as the interior temperature of that dough
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一旦面团内部温度高于了
12:03
crosses the threshold of 140 degrees,
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140度的临界点，
12:05
it passes what we call the "thermal death point."
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我们称之为“温度生死点”。
12:10
Students love that TDP. They think it's the name of a video game.
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学生们爱死这个临界点了。他们觉得这个名字像电脑游戏。
12:13
But it's the thermal death point -- all life ceases there.
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但这是生死点---一切生命在此处消失。
12:16
The yeast, whose mission it has been up till now to raise the dough,
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酵母，至此已完成了它涨发面团，
12:20
to enliven it, to vivify it,
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赋予面团生命的任务，
12:22
in order to complete its mission,
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为了完成全部使命，
12:24
which is also to turn this dough into bread,
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即把面团变成面包，
12:26
has to give up its life.
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酵母必须放弃它自己的生命。
12:28
So you see the symbolism at work? It's starting to come forth a little bit, you know.
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看到我们正在使用的象征意义了吧？
12:31
It's starting to make sense to me --
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对我来说一切都变得有意义了，
12:35
what goes in is dough,
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进去的是面团，
12:37
what comes out is bread --
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出来的是面包，
12:39
or it goes in alive,
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进去的是有生命的，
12:41
comes out dead.
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出来的却是死亡。
12:43
Third transformation. First transformation, alive to dead.
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第三个转型。第一个转型，生到死。
12:46
Second transformation, dead brought back to life.
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第二个转型，复活。
12:50
Third transformation, alive to dead --
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第三个转型，生到死，
12:52
but dough to bread.
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但面团变成了面包。
12:55
Or another analogy would be,
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另一种类比是，
12:57
a caterpillar has been turned into a butterfly.
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毛毛虫变成蝴蝶的过程。
13:00
And it's what comes out of the oven
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从烤箱出来的，
13:02
that is what we call the staff of life.
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是我们所说的“生命物质”。
13:05
This is the product
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这个
13:07
that
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东西
13:10
everyone in the world eats, that is so difficult to give up.
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全世界的人都在吃，而且很难放弃。
13:14
It's so
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它如此
13:16
deeply embedded in our psyches that
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深刻地根植于我们的思维中，
13:19
bread is used as a symbol for life.
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以至于我们会把面包看作生活的标志。
13:22
It's used as a symbol for transformation.
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它也被用于转型的标志。
13:27
And so, as we get to stage 12 and we partake of that,
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在步骤十二，我们分享了它，
13:30
again completing the life cycle,
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再一次完成生命循环，
13:33
you know, we have a chance to essentially ingest that --
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我们有幸能够摄取营养，
13:36
it nurtures us, and we continue to carry on
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它哺育我们，我们又继续把它传承下去，
13:39
and have opportunities to ponder
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并且有机会来思考
13:41
things like this.
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我现在讲的这类东西。
13:43
So this is what I've learned from bread.
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这就是我从面包想到的。
13:45
This is what bread has taught me in my journey.
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这是我的生命之旅中，面包教会我的东西。
13:48
And what we're going to attempt to do
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重提一下我们在这里，
13:50
with this bread here, again,
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想要从面包开始做的，
13:52
is to use, in addition to everything we talked about,
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除了我们已经讲到的这些，
13:55
this bread we're going to call "spent grain bread"
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还有去“用”面包，我们称之为“消费谷物面包”，
13:58
because, as you know, bread-making is very similar to beer-making.
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因为，你该知道面包烘培和酿造啤酒非常类似，
14:01
Beer is basically liquid bread,
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啤酒基本上就是液体面包，
14:03
or bread is solid beer.
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或者说面包就是固体啤酒。
14:05
And --
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而且--
14:07
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
14:08
they -- they're invented around the same time. I think beer came first.
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它们--它们差不多实在同一时间被发明的。我想啤酒应该更早一些。
14:11
And the Egyptian who was tending the beer fell asleep
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然后做啤酒的埃及人一不小心
14:14
in the hot, Egyptian sun, and it turned into bread.
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在炙热的埃及阳光下睡着了，于是啤酒就变成了面包。
14:16
But we've got this bread,
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我们现在拿着的这个面包，
14:18
and what I did here is to try to, again,
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我想要尝试的，
14:20
evoke even more flavor from this grain,
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是从这个谷物中激发更多的香味，
14:24
was we've added into it the spent grain from beer-making.
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我们在其中加入了啤酒糟。
14:27
And if you make this bread, you can use any kind of spent grain from any type of beer.
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如果你做这个面包，你可以尝试任何一种啤酒中的啤酒糟。
14:31
I like dark spent grain. Today we're using a light spent grain
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我喜欢黑啤酒糟。今天我们用一种更清淡的啤酒糟，
14:34
that's actually from, like, some kind of a lager of some sort --
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是从一种
14:37
a light lager or an ale -- that is wheat and barley that's been toasted.
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略强的麦酒--小麦和大麦都被烤香了。
14:41
In other words, the beer-maker knows also how to evoke flavor from the grains
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换句话说，啤酒酿造者也知道，
14:44
by using sprouting and malting and roasting.
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烘烤麦芽可以激发其中的香味。
14:47
We're going to take some of that, and put it into the bread.
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我们拿一点这个，放入面包。
14:49
So now we not only have a high-fiber bread,
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所以现在我们不止有了一个高纤面包，
14:52
but now fiber on top of fiber.
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这个纤维其实是纤维中的纤维了。
14:54
And so this is, again, hopefully
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所以我希望，
14:57
not only a healthy bread,
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这不仅仅是个健康的面包，
14:59
but a bread that you will enjoy.
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同时也是一个你们会觉得好吃的面包。
15:01
So, if I, kind of, break this bread,
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我现在把这个面包弄碎，
15:04
maybe we can share this now a little bit here.
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我们大家可以在这儿把它瓜分了。
15:07
We'll start a little piece here,
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我们先弄一小片儿，
15:09
and I'm going to take a little piece here --
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我来尝尝，
15:11
I think I'd better taste it myself before you have it at lunch.
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我觉得我最好在你们把它当午饭前，自己先尝一点儿。
15:14
I'll leave you
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最后送给大家
15:17
with what I call the baker's blessing.
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我的烘培者专用祝福。
15:19
May your crust be crisp,
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祝你们能烤出焦脆的面包皮，
15:21
and your bread always rise.
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和完美的面包组织。
15:24
Thank you.
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谢谢。
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Peter Reinhart - BakerMaster breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread.
Why you should listen
Peter Reinhart's food work began as ministry outreach and later became a full-fledged culinary and teaching career. Both an educator and lay minister, his lessons focus on both secular and spiritual education. One of his books, Bread Upon the Waters: A Pilgrimage Toward Self Discovery and Spiritual Truth is first in a series of books exploring nourishment in terms of food and one's life mission.
Reinhart is founder of the award-winning Brother Juniper's Bakery in Santa Rosa, California. He's now a full-time faculty member in the International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson and Wales University. He has also developed a line of frozen gourmet pizzas, calzones, toaster snacks and bagels for Amy's Kitchen.
His latest book is Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor.
Peter Reinhart | Speaker | TED.com