Taste3 2008
Peter Reinhart: The art and craft of bread
彼得·瑞因賀特談麵包
Filmed:
Readability: 3.4
957,534 views
剛出爐的麵包、香脆的外皮～烘培大師彼得·瑞因賀特大力推崇他熱愛的主食，更介紹了製作麵包所需的好搭檔：小麥和酵母，以及澱粉和高溫。口水不要流下來喔～
Peter Reinhart - Baker
Master breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread. Full bio
Master breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:16
This is a wheat bread, a whole wheat bread,
0
0
2000
這是一個麵包，全麥麵包
00:18
and it's made with a new technique
1
2000
2000
是由一個我嘗試了一段時間的
00:20
that I've been playing around with,
2
4000
2000
全新技術所製成的
00:22
and developing and writing about which, for lack of a better name,
3
6000
2000
我研發和撰寫這個技術，但還沒幫它取個好一點的名字
00:24
we call the epoxy method.
4
8000
2000
就先叫它”環氧合成樹脂烘培法“
00:26
And I call it an epoxy method because --
5
10000
2000
我知道它聽起來不是很可口
00:28
it's not very appetizing. I understand that --
6
12000
2000
我之所以稱它為”環氧合成樹脂烘培法“ --
00:30
but -- but
7
14000
2000
是因為
00:32
if you think about epoxy, what's epoxy?
8
16000
2000
如果你想想，什麼是環氧合成樹脂？
00:34
It's two resins that are, sort of,
9
18000
2000
就是兩種樹脂
00:36
in and of themselves -- neither of which can make glue,
10
20000
2000
兩種都無法拿來單獨製成膠水
00:39
but when you put the two together,
11
23000
2000
但如果把它們混在一起
00:41
something happens. A bond takes place,
12
25000
1000
它就會發生作用，產生黏性
00:42
and you get this very strong, powerful
13
26000
2000
然後形成一種非常強力的
00:44
adhesive.
14
28000
2000
黏著劑
00:46
Well, in this technique,
15
30000
2000
過去的20年左右，
00:48
what I've tried to do is kind of
16
32000
2000
我嘗試著
00:50
gather all of the knowledge that the bread-baking world,
17
34000
2000
將烘培麵包的知識、
00:52
the artisan bread-baking community,
18
36000
2000
與整個烘培業、
00:54
has been trying to accumulate over the last 20 years or so --
19
38000
3000
和這個技術結合在一起。
00:57
since we've been engaged in a bread renaissance in America --
20
41000
3000
我們都致力於美國麵包的復興
01:00
and put it together to come up with a method
21
44000
3000
也想齊心協力研發出一種能做出
01:03
that would help to take whole-grain breads.
22
47000
3000
美味五榖麵包的方法
01:06
And let's face it, everyone's trying to move towards whole grains.
23
50000
3000
但誰不是朝這方向邁進呢？
01:09
We finally, after 40 years of knowing
24
53000
3000
四十年前，我們已經知道
01:12
that wholegrain was a healthier option,
25
56000
2000
五榖麵包是個較健康的選擇
01:14
we're finally getting to the point where we actually are tipping over
26
58000
3000
現在，終於做到更大的突破
01:17
and attempting to actually eat them.
27
61000
2000
人們開始試著真的吃它了！
01:19
(Laughter)
28
63000
2000
（笑聲）
01:21
The challenge, though, for a wholegrain baker is,
29
65000
2000
但對五榖麵包烘培師父真正的挑戰
01:23
you know, how do you make it taste good?
30
67000
3000
是要如何將它做得好吃？
01:26
Because whole grain -- it's easy with white flour
31
70000
2000
用白麵粉很容易就能做出好吃的麵包，
01:28
to make a good-tasting bread. White flour is sweet.
32
72000
3000
因為白麵粉是甜的
01:31
It's mainly starch, and starch, when you break it down --
33
75000
3000
它的主要成份是澱粉，而澱粉分解後
01:34
what is starch? It's -- thank you -- sugar, yes.
34
78000
3000
會是什麼？是...謝謝！沒錯，就是糖
01:37
So a baker, and a good baker,
35
81000
2000
所以，一個厲害的烘培師
01:39
knows how to pull or draw forth
36
83000
3000
就懂得要怎麼引出
01:42
the inherent sugar trapped in the starch.
37
86000
3000
澱粉裡含有的糖
01:45
With whole grain bread, you have other obstacles.
38
89000
2000
但做五榖麵包，你會遇到別的困難
01:47
You've got bran, which is probably the healthiest part of the bread for us,
39
91000
3000
五榖面包含有麥麩，這大概是麵包裡最健康的部份了
01:50
or the fiber for us because it is just loaded with fiber,
40
94000
3000
因為它含有大量的纖維
01:53
for the bran is fiber.
41
97000
2000
麥麩富含纖維
01:55
It's got germ. Those are the good things,
42
99000
2000
還有胚芽，也是個好東西
01:57
but those aren't the tastiest parts of the wheat.
43
101000
2000
但卻不是小麥裡最好吃的部份
01:59
So whole grain breads historically
44
103000
3000
所以，歷來，
02:02
have had sort of this onus of being health food breads,
45
106000
2000
五榖麵包背負著"健康食品"的重擔
02:04
and people don't like to eat,
46
108000
2000
人們不喜歡吃所謂的"健康食品"
02:06
quote, health food. They like to eat healthy and healthily,
47
110000
3000
雖然大家喜歡吃得健康
02:09
but when we think of something as a health food,
48
113000
2000
但當我們提到"健康食品"的時候
02:11
we think of it as something we eat out of obligation,
49
115000
3000
都會想到一些不情願吃的東西
02:14
not out of passion and love for the flavor.
50
118000
3000
不是因為自己愛那個口味而吃它
02:17
And ultimately, the challenge of the baker,
51
121000
3000
所以，對烘培師、讀餐飲的學生、
02:20
the challenge of every culinary student, of every chef,
52
124000
2000
以及廚師而言，最終極的挑戰，
02:22
is to deliver flavor.
53
126000
3000
就是傳達食物的美味
02:25
Flavor is king. Flavor rules.
54
129000
2000
美味是至尊，美味決定一切。
02:27
I call it the flavor rule. Flavor rules.
55
131000
2000
我稱它為“美味法則”，美味決定一切。
02:29
And -- and
56
133000
2000
因此 --
02:31
you can get somebody to eat something that's good for them once,
57
135000
3000
你可以讓人們嘗試對他們有益的食物，
02:34
but they won't eat it again if they don't like it, right?
58
138000
3000
但他們如果不喜歡的話，就不會再試下一次，對吧？
02:37
So, this is the challenge for this bread.
59
141000
2000
這也是製作這個麵包的挑戰
02:39
We're going to try this at lunch, and
60
143000
2000
待會兒午餐時間我們可以試吃看看
02:41
I'll explain a bit more about it,
61
145000
2000
我先說多一點關於它的故事
02:43
but it's made not only with two types of pre-doughs --
62
147000
3000
它不是只用兩種生麵團做成的
02:46
this attempt, again, at bringing out flavor
63
150000
2000
我們是要試著把味道帶出來，
02:48
is to make a piece of dough
64
152000
2000
秘訣是在將麵團加入酵母的前一天
02:50
the day before that is not leavened.
65
154000
3000
就先做好一個麵團
02:53
It's just dough that is wet.
66
157000
2000
這個麵團是濕潤的
02:55
It's hydrated dough we call "the soaker" --
67
159000
2000
這含有水份的的麵團，我們叫它”酒鬼“
02:57
that helps to start enzyme activity.
68
161000
2000
它對發酵過程有幫助
02:59
And enzymes are the secret, kind of, ingredient in dough
69
163000
3000
而酵素就像是引出麵團香味的
03:02
that brings out flavor.
70
166000
2000
秘密武器
03:04
It starts to release the sugars trapped in the starch.
71
168000
2000
酵素的功用就是
03:06
That's what enzymes are doing.
72
170000
2000
將澱粉裡的糖釋放出來
03:08
And so, if we can release some of those,
73
172000
2000
所以，如果能釋放其中一部分
03:10
they become accessible to us in our palate.
74
174000
2000
我們的味覺神經就會偵查到它
03:12
They become accessible to the yeast as food.
75
176000
3000
酵母也會開始作用
03:15
They become accessible to the oven for caramelization
76
179000
3000
麵包也才能在烤箱裡產生焦糖化的過程
03:18
to give us a beautiful crust.
77
182000
2000
讓外皮香脆
03:20
The other pre-dough
78
184000
2000
另一個麵團
03:22
that we make is fermented -- our pre-ferment.
79
186000
2000
是已經先發酵過的，也就是老麵
03:24
And it's made -- it can be a sourdough starter, or what we call a "biga"
80
188000
3000
可以把它當成發酵麵團的觸媒，也稱它做 ”biga（意式酵頭）“
03:27
or any other kind of pre-fermented dough with a little yeast in it,
81
191000
3000
或是使用任何其他含有酵母、先經過發酵的麵團
03:30
and that starts to develop flavor also.
82
194000
3000
它會把麵包的香味帶出來
03:33
And on day two, we put those two pieces together. That's the epoxy.
83
197000
3000
第二天，我們把兩團麵混合在一起，這就是”環氧合成樹脂烘培法“
03:36
And we're hoping that, sort of, the
84
200000
2000
然後，我們期待
03:38
enzyme piece of dough
85
202000
2000
加入酵素的麵團
03:40
becomes the fuel pack for the leavened piece of dough,
86
204000
3000
能夠成為酵母麵團的能量來源
03:43
and when we put them together and add the final ingredients,
87
207000
3000
然後，將它們混合後，我們再加入最後的幾項材料
03:46
we can create a bread that does evoke
88
210000
2000
我們就可以做出一個
03:48
the full potential of flavor trapped in the grain.
89
212000
3000
能激發出五榖中所有香味的麵包了
03:51
That's the challenge. Okay, so, now, what we --
90
215000
2000
這可真是個挑戰啊。好，現在，
03:53
in the journey of wheat, let's go back and look at these 12 stages.
91
217000
4000
在這個小麥之旅中，我們來回顧一下這12道程序
03:57
I'm going to go through them very quickly and then revisit them.
92
221000
2000
我會先很快的帶過，之後再回顧一次
03:59
Okay, we're going to start with the first stage.
93
223000
3000
從第一個步驟開始
04:03
And this is what every student has to begin with.
94
227000
3000
這也是所有的學生最先必須學習的
04:06
Everyone who works in the culinary world knows that
95
230000
2000
每個烹飪界裡的人都一定知道
04:08
the first stage of cooking is "mise en place,"
96
232000
3000
第一步驟就是 "mise en place"（法文）
04:11
which is just a French way of saying, "get organized."
97
235000
4000
也就是“井井有條”
04:16
Everything in its place. First stage.
98
240000
3000
每樣東西都各就各位。第一步。
04:19
So in baking we call it scaling -- weighing out the ingredients.
99
243000
2000
而烘培裡，我們就要做秤重的工作：量材料的重量
04:21
Stage two is mixing. We take the ingredients and we mix them.
100
245000
3000
第二步驟是混合，把材料混合在一起
04:24
We have to develop the gluten.
101
248000
2000
我們得做出麵筋
04:26
There's no gluten in flour. There's only the potential for gluten.
102
250000
3000
但麵粉裡並沒有麵筋這個成分
04:29
Here's another kind of prefiguring of epoxy
103
253000
3000
所以在這兒，又有另一種類似環氧合成樹脂的做法
04:32
because we've got glutenin and gliadin,
104
256000
2000
因為我們有 小麥蛋白 和 麥醇溶蛋白
04:34
neither of which are strong enough to make a good bread.
105
258000
3000
兩種都沒辦法單獨製做出好麵包
04:37
But when they get hydrated and they bond to each other,
106
261000
3000
但當遇到水份時，它們會結合在一起
04:40
they create a stronger molecule, a stronger protein we call gluten.
107
264000
4000
形成一個更有力的蛋白質分子，我們稱之為 麵筋
04:44
And so we, in the mixing process,
108
268000
2000
所以在混合的程序中
04:46
have to develop the gluten,
109
270000
2000
我們要做出麵筋
04:48
we have to activate the leaven or the yeast,
110
272000
3000
也要讓酵素、酵母產生作用
04:51
and we have to essentially distribute all the ingredients evenly.
111
275000
3000
也要把材料按準確的比例加入
04:54
Then we get into fermentation, the third stage,
112
278000
2000
然後進入第三階段－－發酵
04:56
which is really where the flavor develops.
113
280000
2000
也是香味真正發展的過程
04:58
The yeast comes alive and starts eating the sugars,
114
282000
3000
酵母開始活了過來，然後開始吃掉糖類
05:01
creating carbon dioxide and alcohol --
115
285000
2000
產生二氧化碳和酒精
05:03
essentially it's burping and sweating, which is what bread is.
116
287000
3000
基本上，也就是酵母正在打嗝、流汗
05:06
It's yeast burps and sweat.
117
290000
2000
而麵包就是酵母打的嗝、流的汗
05:08
And somehow, this is transformed --
118
292000
2000
但基於某種原因
05:10
the yeast burps and sweats are later transformed --
119
294000
3000
酵母的嗝和汗會被轉化
05:13
and this is really getting to the heart of what makes bread so special
120
297000
3000
這過程也漸漸地讓麵包形成一個轉化食品
05:16
is that it is a transformational food,
121
300000
2000
也正是麵包之所以特別的原因
05:18
and we're going to explore that in a minute.
122
302000
2000
我們等一下就會談到這部份
05:20
But then, quickly through the next few stages.
123
304000
2000
但接下來，很快的進入下幾個階段
05:22
We, after it's fermented and it's developed,
124
306000
2000
在經過發酵、成長、
05:24
started to develop flavor and character,
125
308000
2000
香味也引出來後
05:26
we divide it into smaller units.
126
310000
2000
我們把它分切成小塊
05:28
And then we take those units and we shape them. We give them a little pre-shape,
127
312000
3000
然後把這些小麵團稍微整型
05:31
usually a round or a little torpedo shape, sometimes.
128
315000
3000
通常是做成圓形，有時也會做成魚雷的形狀
05:34
That's called "rounding."
129
318000
2000
這步驟我們稱為"揉圓"
05:36
And there's a short rest period. It can be for a few seconds.
130
320000
3000
然後是一小段休息時間，這可能需要幾秒鐘，
05:39
It can be for 20 or 30 minutes. We call that resting or benching.
131
323000
3000
但也可能要2、30分鐘，我們稱這過程為"醒麵"
05:42
Then we go into final shaping,
132
326000
2000
接下來就是最後的塑型
05:44
"panning" -- which means putting the shaped loaf on a pan.
133
328000
4000
然後是"入模"，也就是把塑型後的麵團放上烤盤
05:48
This takes a second, but it's a distinctive stage.
134
332000
4000
過程只要幾秒鐘，但是個非常特別的步驟
05:52
It can be in a basket. It can be in a loaf pan, but we pan it.
135
336000
4000
可以放到籃子裡、吐司模，但我們選擇烤盤
05:56
And then, stage nine.
136
340000
2000
接著，第九步驟
05:58
The fermentation which started at stage three is continuing
137
342000
3000
第三步驟的發酵在整段過程中一直持續進行
06:01
through all these other stages. Again, developing more flavor.
138
345000
3000
讓麵包產出更濃郁的香味
06:04
The final fermentation takes place in stage nine.
139
348000
2000
而最後的發酵就是在這第九階段
06:06
We call it "proofing."
140
350000
2000
也就是"二次發酵"
06:08
Proofing means to prove that the dough is alive.
141
352000
3000
二次發酵是為了證明這麵團是活的
06:11
And at stage nine we get the dough to the final shape,
142
355000
3000
在這階段，我們也整理一下麵團形狀
06:14
and it goes into the oven -- stage 10.
143
358000
2000
然後放入烤箱－－這是第十個步驟
06:16
Three transformations take place in the oven.
144
360000
3000
烤箱理會有三個轉化過程發生
06:19
The sugars in the dough caramelize in the crust.
145
363000
3000
麵團裡的糖把表皮焦化
06:22
They give us that beautiful brown crust.
146
366000
2000
帶來漂亮的金黃色外皮
06:24
Only the crust can caramelize. It's the only place that gets hot enough.
147
368000
3000
只有表皮會被焦化，因為只有它會遇到夠高的溫度
06:27
Inside, the proteins --
148
371000
2000
麵團內部，蛋白質、
06:29
this gluten -- coagulates.
149
373000
2000
麵筋，凝結在一起
06:31
When it gets to about 160 degrees,
150
375000
2000
當到達160度左右時
06:33
the proteins all line up
and they create structure,
and they create structure,
151
377000
2000
蛋白質開始排列一個整齊結構
06:35
the gluten structure --
152
379000
2000
就是麵筋結構
06:37
what ultimately we will call the crumb of the bread.
153
381000
3000
也就是最後會看到的麵包屑
06:40
And the starches, when they reach about 180 degrees,
154
384000
2000
然後當澱粉在達到180度時
06:42
gelatinize.
155
386000
2000
它會呈現膠狀
06:44
And gelatinization is yet another
156
388000
3000
這膠化的過程就是另一個
06:47
oven transformation.
157
391000
2000
在烤箱裡發生的轉化過程
06:49
Coagulation, caramelization and gelatinization --
158
393000
3000
凝結化、焦糖化、膠狀化
06:52
when the starch is thick and they absorb all the moisture that's around them,
159
396000
3000
當澱粉變得濃稠，且吸取了所有週邊的水份後
06:55
they -- they kind of swell, and then they burst.
160
399000
3000
它就膨脹起來，直到脹破為止
06:58
And they burst, and they spill their guts into the bread.
161
402000
3000
澱粉脹破時，把它的內臟都炸到麵包裡了
07:01
So basically now we're eating yeast sweats --
162
405000
2000
所以基本上，我們是在吃酵母流的汗、
07:03
sweat, burps and starch guts.
163
407000
3000
打的嗝、和澱粉的內臟
07:06
Again, transformed in stage 10 in the oven
164
410000
3000
重複一次，第十階段是在烤箱裡的轉化過程
07:09
because what went into the oven as dough
165
413000
3000
因為進烤箱時是個麵團
07:12
comes out in stage 11 as bread.
166
416000
3000
出烤箱時就變成麵包了，也就是第十一步驟
07:15
And stage 11, we call it cooling --
167
419000
2000
第十一階段，我們稱之為"冷卻"
07:17
because we never really eat the bread right away.
168
421000
2000
我們從不吃剛出爐的麵包
07:19
There's a little carry-over baking.
169
423000
2000
因為有些部分還在運作
07:21
The proteins have to set up, strengthen and firm up.
170
425000
3000
蛋白質還需要建構、強化
07:25
And then we have stage 12, which the textbooks call "packaging,"
171
429000
4000
接著，才是第十二步驟，也就是教科書裡說的"包裝"
07:29
but my students call "eating."
172
433000
2000
但我的學生稱之為"開動"！
07:31
And so, we're going to be on our own journey today from wheat to eat,
173
435000
3000
於是今天的小麥之旅就從"小麥"到了"進食"
07:34
and in a few minutes we will try this,
174
438000
2000
再一會兒我們就可以來試試這個
07:36
and see if we have succeeded
175
440000
3000
看看我們是否有成功地
07:39
in fulfilling this baker's mission of pulling out flavor.
176
443000
3000
達成烘培師的任務，把麵包香味引出來
07:42
But I want to go back now and revisit these steps,
177
446000
3000
但我想先回顧一下幾個步驟
07:45
and talk about it from the standpoint of transformation,
178
449000
2000
然後以轉化過程為起點、談一下那些步驟
07:47
because I really believe that
179
451000
2000
因為我深深相信
07:49
all things can be understood --
180
453000
3000
每件事都可以被理解
07:52
and this is not my own idea. This goes back to the Scholastics and to the Ancients --
181
456000
3000
而且這不是我自己的想法，而是學者、先人的智慧－－
07:55
that all things can be understood on four levels:
182
459000
2000
每件事都可被理解為四種層面：
07:57
the literal, the metaphoric or poetic level,
183
461000
4000
字面意義層面、隱喻或詩意的層面、
08:01
the political or ethical level.
184
465000
3000
政治或道德層面、
08:04
And ultimately, the mystical or sometimes called the "anagogical" level.
185
468000
4000
以及最深層的神祕層面，也稱作類比層面
08:08
It's hard to get to those levels unless you go through the literal.
186
472000
3000
除非你了解字面意義，否則很難深入到其他層面
08:11
In fact, Dante says you can't understand the three deeper levels
187
475000
3000
事實上，但丁說過：除非你先理解了字義的層面
08:14
unless you first understand the literal level,
188
478000
3000
否則無法了解較深的這三層意義
08:17
so that's why we're talking literally about bread.
189
481000
2000
這也是為什麼我們現在要聊麵包的字面意義
08:19
But let's kind of look at these stages again
190
483000
2000
我們再從這些相關的要素、儘可能到更深層地
08:21
from the standpoint of connections to possibly a deeper level --
191
485000
4000
再看一次這幾個步驟
08:25
all in my quest for answering the question,
192
489000
2000
努力尋找出這問題的答案：
08:27
"What is it about bread that's so special?"
193
491000
2000
"麵包到底有什麼特別？"
08:30
And fulfilling this mission of evoking the full potential of flavor.
194
494000
4000
進而達成引出麵包裡所有潛在美味的任務
08:34
Because what happens is,
195
498000
2000
因為事情是這樣的
08:36
bread begins as wheat or any other grain.
196
500000
3000
麵包源於小麥或其他穀類
08:39
But what's wheat? Wheat is a grass
197
503000
2000
但什麼是小麥？
08:41
that grows in the field.
198
505000
2000
小麥是種長在田裡的草
08:43
And, like all grasses, at a certain point it puts out seeds.
199
507000
3000
然後就像其他所有草一樣，長到某個程度時，它會散播種籽
08:47
And we harvest those seeds, and those are the wheat kernels.
200
511000
3000
然後我們收割那些籽，也就是麥子仁
08:50
Now, in order to harvest it -- I mean, what's harvesting?
201
514000
2000
然後，為了要收割－－什麼是收割？
08:52
It's just a euphemism for killing, right?
202
516000
4000
就是婉轉的說出"殺了它"嘛，對吧？
08:56
I mean, that's what's harvest -- we say we harvest the pig, you know?
203
520000
2000
那就是收割的意義嘛 -- 我們會說"收割豬隻"嗎？
08:58
Yes, we slaughter, you know. Yes, that's life.
204
522000
3000
其實我們屠宰呀～而那是對動物我們這麼說
09:01
We harvest the wheat,
205
525000
2000
我們收割小麥
09:03
and in harvesting it, we kill it.
206
527000
2000
說收割，其實就是殺了它們
09:05
Now, wheat is alive,
207
529000
2000
現在，小麥是有生命的
09:07
and as we harvest it, it gives up its seeds.
208
531000
4000
我們收割它，它奉獻出它的籽
09:11
Now, at least with seeds we have the potential for future life.
209
535000
3000
至少，有種籽的話，就有機會培育新生命
09:14
We can plant those in the ground.
210
538000
2000
我們可以把它種在土裡
09:16
And we save some of those for the next generation.
211
540000
2000
然後也留一些到下一輪再栽種
09:18
But most of those seeds get crushed
212
542000
2000
但多數的籽會被碾磨
09:20
and turned into flour.
213
544000
2000
成為麵粉
09:22
And at that point, the wheat has suffered the ultimate indignity.
214
546000
3000
在這一刻，小麥的尊嚴遭受到最嚴重的踐踏
09:25
It's not only been killed,
215
549000
2000
不只被殺死
09:27
but it's been denied any potential for creating future life.
216
551000
3000
而是它培育新生命的可能性都完全抹殺
09:30
So we turn it into flour.
217
554000
3000
變成了麵粉
09:33
So as I said, I think bread is a transformational food.
218
557000
3000
就如我說，我認為麵包是轉化食物
09:36
The first transformation -- and, by the way,
219
560000
3000
順帶一提，對我而言
09:39
the definition of transformation for me is
220
563000
2000
第一道轉化的定義是
09:41
a radical change from one thing into something else.
221
565000
2000
一個物質徹底地轉變成另一個東西
09:44
O.K.? Radical, not subtle.
222
568000
2000
可以嗎? 是徹底的，不是微微的而已
09:46
Not like hot water made cold,
223
570000
2000
不是像熱水變成冷水
09:48
or cold water turned hot,
224
572000
2000
或冷水變熱
09:50
but water boiled off and becoming steam.
225
574000
3000
而是水滾了之後、昇華成水蒸氣
09:53
That's a transformation, two different things.
226
577000
2000
是這樣的轉化喔，兩者是不一樣的
09:55
Well, in this case, the first transformation
227
579000
2000
所以，這樣的情況下，第一道轉化
09:57
is alive to dead.
228
581000
2000
是從生到死
10:00
I'd call that radical.
229
584000
2000
我會說這很徹底
10:03
So, we've got now this flour.
230
587000
3000
現在有了麵粉
10:06
And what do we do? We add some water.
231
590000
2000
然後呢？我們加點水進去
10:08
In stage one, we weigh it.
232
592000
2000
在第一階段，我們秤秤它
10:10
In stage two, we add water and salt to it, mix it together,
233
594000
2000
第二階段，加點水和鹽，然後將它們混合
10:12
and we create something that we call "clay."
234
596000
2000
然後就形成了我們說的”粘土“
10:14
It's like clay.
235
598000
2000
它很像粘土
10:16
And we infuse that clay
236
600000
2000
接著我們在粘土裡加入
10:18
with an ingredient that we call "leaven."
237
602000
3000
一種叫做酵素的原料
10:21
In this case, it's yeast, but yeast is leaven. What does leaven mean?
238
605000
3000
在這是用酵母，酵母是種酵素。什麼是酵素？
10:24
Leaven comes from the root word that means enliven --
239
608000
3000
酵素（leaven）這個字是從enliven的字根來的
10:28
to vivify, to bring to life.
240
612000
2000
意思是：使之活躍、有生氣
10:32
By the way, what's the Hebrew word for clay? Adam.
241
616000
4000
對了，粘土的希伯來文怎麼說？－－亞當（adam）
10:36
You see, the baker, in this moment,
242
620000
2000
你看，這好像說明了
10:38
has become, in a sense,
243
622000
2000
烘培師傅就如同是
10:40
sort of, the God of his dough, you know, and his dough, well,
244
624000
3000
麵團的造物主，而麵團這個不具特別智慧的生物體
10:43
while it's not an intelligent life form, is now alive.
245
627000
3000
現在被賦予了生命
10:46
And we know it's alive because in stage three,
246
630000
2000
之所以知道它是有生命的，是因為在第三階段時
10:48
it grows. Growth is the proof of life.
247
632000
3000
它會發酵脹大，而這就是生命的證明
10:51
And while it's growing, all these
248
635000
2000
當它在膨脹的過程中
10:53
literal transformations are taking place.
249
637000
2000
轉化的過程就產生了
10:55
Enzymes are breaking forth sugars.
250
639000
2000
酵素開始分解糖類
10:57
Yeast is eating sugar and
251
641000
2000
酵母開始啃食糖
10:59
turning it into carbon dioxide and alcohol.
252
643000
3000
然後轉化成二氧化碳和酒精
11:02
Bacteria is in there, eating the same sugars,
253
646000
2000
細菌也在裡面吃著那些糖
11:04
turning them into acids.
254
648000
2000
然後轉化成酸類
11:06
In other words, personality and character's being developed in this dough
255
650000
3000
換句話說，在烘培師的細心觀測下
11:09
under the watchful gaze of the baker.
256
653000
3000
這麵團的內在和特性都被提昇了
11:12
And the baker's choices all along the way
257
656000
2000
而烘培師在烘培過程中的所有選擇
11:14
determine the outcome of the product.
258
658000
3000
都決定著成品的結果
11:18
A subtle change in temperature -- a subtle change in time --
259
662000
3000
無論是些許地改變溫度、或是稍微地調整時間 --
11:21
it's all about a balancing act between time, temperature
260
665000
2000
烘培就是在時間、溫度、材料之間取得平衡點
11:23
and ingredients. That's the art of baking.
261
667000
2000
這就是烘培的藝術
11:25
So all these things are determined by the baker,
262
669000
2000
這些要素是靠烘培師來決定
11:27
and the bread goes through some stages, and characters develop.
263
671000
3000
而麵包則是通過了幾階段的考驗、內在有了提昇
11:30
And then we divide it, and this one big piece of dough
264
674000
2000
接著，我們將它切成較小塊的麵團
11:32
is divided into smaller units, and each of those units
265
676000
2000
然後再由烘培師幫這些小麵團
11:34
are given shape by the baker.
266
678000
2000
塑造形狀
11:36
And as they're shaped, they're raised again,
267
680000
2000
被塑完形後，它們會再膨脹一次
11:38
all along proving that they're alive,
268
682000
2000
這些都證明了它們是有生命的
11:40
and developing character.
269
684000
2000
而且內在也是在改變的
11:42
And at stage 10, we take it to the oven.
270
686000
3000
第十階段，將它們送進烤箱
11:45
It's still dough. Nobody eats bread dough --
271
689000
2000
它們還是麵團而已。沒有人真的生吃麵團，
11:47
a few people do, I think, but not too many.
272
691000
2000
很少數的人會啦，但不是太多
11:49
I've met some dough eaters, but --
273
693000
2000
我有碰過幾個愛吃生麵團的人 --
11:51
it's not the staff of life, right? Bread is the staff of life.
274
695000
4000
不過生麵團不能當主食，對吧？但麵包就是主食啦
11:55
But dough is what we're working with,
275
699000
2000
生麵團是還需要被我們加工的
11:57
and we take that dough to the oven,
276
701000
2000
然後送往烤箱
11:59
and it goes into the oven. As soon as the interior temperature of that dough
277
703000
4000
接著進入烤箱。當烤箱內的溫度
12:03
crosses the threshold of 140 degrees,
278
707000
2000
高於140度的時候
12:05
it passes what we call the "thermal death point."
279
709000
3000
就超過了我們所謂的”致死溫度“
12:10
Students love that TDP. They think it's the name of a video game.
280
714000
3000
學生們很愛這個名稱，因為聽起來很像電玩遊戲
12:13
But it's the thermal death point -- all life ceases there.
281
717000
3000
但達到這個致死溫度的時候，所有的生物都停止活動
12:16
The yeast, whose mission it has been up till now to raise the dough,
282
720000
4000
酵母的任務要到麵團發酵膨脹後，才算完成
12:20
to enliven it, to vivify it,
283
724000
2000
它得讓麵團活躍、有生氣
12:22
in order to complete its mission,
284
726000
2000
才算達成任務
12:24
which is also to turn this dough into bread,
285
728000
2000
也就是要讓麵團變成麵包
12:26
has to give up its life.
286
730000
2000
它就必須犧牲自己的性命
12:28
So you see the symbolism at work? It's starting to come forth a little bit, you know.
287
732000
3000
你看得出來這些象徵意義嗎？接下來會再明顯一些
12:31
It's starting to make sense to me --
288
735000
2000
越來越有道理－－
12:35
what goes in is dough,
289
739000
2000
送進烤箱的是麵團
12:37
what comes out is bread --
290
741000
2000
而出來的是麵包
12:39
or it goes in alive,
291
743000
2000
或者說：活著進去
12:41
comes out dead.
292
745000
2000
死著出來
12:43
Third transformation. First transformation, alive to dead.
293
747000
3000
這是第三階段的轉化。第一個轉化是由活到死
12:46
Second transformation, dead brought back to life.
294
750000
4000
第二個轉化是死而復生
12:50
Third transformation, alive to dead --
295
754000
2000
第三個轉化是又再由活到死 --
12:52
but dough to bread.
296
756000
3000
但從麵團變成了麵包
12:55
Or another analogy would be,
297
759000
2000
或是可以比喻成
12:57
a caterpillar has been turned into a butterfly.
298
761000
3000
毛毛蟲變成了蝴蝶
13:00
And it's what comes out of the oven
299
764000
2000
也就是從烤箱出來
13:02
that is what we call the staff of life.
300
766000
3000
被我們稱為主食的東西
13:05
This is the product
301
769000
2000
這就是完成品
13:07
that
302
771000
3000
這個
13:10
everyone in the world eats, that is so difficult to give up.
303
774000
4000
是全世界的人都在吃、非常難戒掉的東西
13:14
It's so
304
778000
2000
人們多麼地
13:16
deeply embedded in our psyches that
305
780000
2000
根深蒂固的認為
13:19
bread is used as a symbol for life.
306
783000
3000
麵包就是生活的象徵
13:22
It's used as a symbol for transformation.
307
786000
3000
也是轉化的象徵
13:27
And so, as we get to stage 12 and we partake of that,
308
791000
3000
於是，到了第十二步驟，我們參與了這過程
13:30
again completing the life cycle,
309
794000
3000
再次完成一個生命的循環
13:33
you know, we have a chance to essentially ingest that --
310
797000
3000
當我們有機會真的吞下麵包時
13:36
it nurtures us, and we continue to carry on
311
800000
3000
它供給我們養分，然後我們有機會
13:39
and have opportunities to ponder
312
803000
2000
繼續思索
13:41
things like this.
313
805000
2000
像這類的事情
13:43
So this is what I've learned from bread.
314
807000
2000
這就我從麵包上學到的
13:45
This is what bread has taught me in my journey.
315
809000
3000
麵包讓我受惠良多
13:48
And what we're going to attempt to do
316
812000
2000
接下來，關於這個麵包
13:50
with this bread here, again,
317
814000
2000
除了我們剛提過的之外
13:52
is to use, in addition to everything we talked about,
318
816000
3000
我們想要再試著做的是
13:55
this bread we're going to call "spent grain bread"
319
819000
3000
把它的名字叫做”榖粕麵包“
13:58
because, as you know, bread-making is very similar to beer-making.
320
822000
3000
因為，我們知道，做麵包跟做啤酒差不多
14:01
Beer is basically liquid bread,
321
825000
2000
啤酒基本上就是液態的麵包
14:03
or bread is solid beer.
322
827000
2000
麵包就是固態的啤酒
14:05
And --
323
829000
1000
而且...
14:07
(Laughter)
324
831000
1000
（笑聲）
14:08
they -- they're invented around the same time. I think beer came first.
325
832000
3000
它們是在差不多時期被發明的。我想是先有啤酒
14:11
And the Egyptian who was tending the beer fell asleep
326
835000
3000
但一個負責照料啤酒的埃及工人睡著了
14:14
in the hot, Egyptian sun, and it turned into bread.
327
838000
2000
結果啤酒在炙熱的埃及陽光加溫下，做成了麵包
14:16
But we've got this bread,
328
840000
2000
而對於這個麵包
14:18
and what I did here is to try to, again,
329
842000
2000
我所做的是試著
14:20
evoke even more flavor from this grain,
330
844000
4000
從榖類裡引出更多的香味
14:24
was we've added into it the spent grain from beer-making.
331
848000
3000
像是加入製做啤酒後留下的穀粕
14:27
And if you make this bread, you can use any kind of spent grain from any type of beer.
332
851000
4000
任何種類的啤酒的榖粕都可以拿來做這個麵包
14:31
I like dark spent grain. Today we're using a light spent grain
333
855000
3000
我偏好黑啤酒的榖粕，而今天用的是淡啤酒的榖渣
14:34
that's actually from, like, some kind of a lager of some sort --
334
858000
3000
可以用拉格啤酒
14:37
a light lager or an ale -- that is wheat and barley that's been toasted.
335
861000
4000
或是麥酒（艾爾酒），就是用烤過的大麥和小麥來製作的
14:41
In other words, the beer-maker knows also how to evoke flavor from the grains
336
865000
3000
換句話說，啤酒製造商都知道要用發芽、製成麥芽和烘培的技術
14:44
by using sprouting and malting and roasting.
337
868000
3000
來把穀類裡的香味引出來
14:47
We're going to take some of that, and put it into the bread.
338
871000
2000
我們就要把這技術放到麵包的烘培裡
14:49
So now we not only have a high-fiber bread,
339
873000
3000
所以，我們現在有的不僅是高纖麵包
14:52
but now fiber on top of fiber.
340
876000
2000
而是比高纖還要高纖
14:54
And so this is, again, hopefully
341
878000
3000
也希望這不僅是一個
14:57
not only a healthy bread,
342
881000
2000
健康的麵包
14:59
but a bread that you will enjoy.
343
883000
2000
也是一個讓你吃到意猶未盡的麵包
15:01
So, if I, kind of, break this bread,
344
885000
3000
我把它撥開
15:04
maybe we can share this now a little bit here.
345
888000
3000
大家分著嚐嚐看
15:07
We'll start a little piece here,
346
891000
2000
一人一小塊
15:09
and I'm going to take a little piece here --
347
893000
2000
我自己也來一點
15:11
I think I'd better taste it myself before you have it at lunch.
348
895000
3000
我想在你們吃之前，我最好自己先試試
15:14
I'll leave you
349
898000
2000
在離開前，
15:17
with what I call the baker's blessing.
350
901000
2000
我送給大家 “烘培師的祝福” －－
15:19
May your crust be crisp,
351
903000
2000
祝你的麵包皮香香脆脆
15:21
and your bread always rise.
352
905000
2000
願你的麵包永遠發酵膨脹
15:24
Thank you.
353
908000
2000
謝謝各位
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Peter Reinhart - BakerMaster breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread.
Why you should listen
Peter Reinhart's food work began as ministry outreach and later became a full-fledged culinary and teaching career. Both an educator and lay minister, his lessons focus on both secular and spiritual education. One of his books, Bread Upon the Waters: A Pilgrimage Toward Self Discovery and Spiritual Truth is first in a series of books exploring nourishment in terms of food and one's life mission.
Reinhart is founder of the award-winning Brother Juniper's Bakery in Santa Rosa, California. He's now a full-time faculty member in the International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson and Wales University. He has also developed a line of frozen gourmet pizzas, calzones, toaster snacks and bagels for Amy's Kitchen.
His latest book is Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor.
Peter Reinhart | Speaker | TED.com