ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Peter Reinhart - Baker
Master breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread.

Why you should listen

Peter Reinhart's food work began as ministry outreach and later became a full-fledged culinary and teaching career. Both an educator and lay minister, his lessons focus on both secular and spiritual education. One of his books, Bread Upon the Waters: A Pilgrimage Toward Self Discovery and Spiritual Truth is first in a series of books exploring nourishment in terms of food and one's life mission.

Reinhart is founder of the award-winning Brother Juniper's Bakery in Santa Rosa, California. He's now a full-time faculty member in the International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson and Wales University. He has also developed a line of frozen gourmet pizzas, calzones, toaster snacks and bagels for Amy's Kitchen.

His latest book is Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor.

More profile about the speaker
Peter Reinhart | Speaker | TED.com
Taste3 2008

Peter Reinhart: The art and craft of bread

彼得·瑞因賀特談麵包

Filmed:
957,534 views

剛出爐的麵包、香脆的外皮~烘培大師彼得·瑞因賀特大力推崇他熱愛的主食,更介紹了製作麵包所需的好搭檔:小麥和酵母,以及澱粉和高溫。口水不要流下來喔~
- Baker
Master breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:16
This is a wheat小麥 bread麵包, a whole整個 wheat小麥 bread麵包,
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這是一個麵包,全麥麵包
00:18
and it's made製作 with a new technique技術
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是由一個我嘗試了一段時間的
00:20
that I've been playing播放 around with,
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全新技術所製成的
00:22
and developing發展 and writing寫作 about which哪一個, for lack缺乏 of a better name名稱,
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我研發和撰寫這個技術,但還沒幫它取個好一點的名字
00:24
we call the epoxy環氧 method方法.
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就先叫它”環氧合成樹脂烘培法“
00:26
And I call it an epoxy環氧 method方法 because --
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我知道它聽起來不是很可口
00:28
it's not very appetizing開胃的. I understand理解 that --
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我之所以稱它為”環氧合成樹脂烘培法“ --
00:30
but -- but
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是因為
00:32
if you think about epoxy環氧, what's epoxy環氧?
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如果你想想,什麼是環氧合成樹脂?
00:34
It's two resins樹脂 that are, sort分類 of,
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就是兩種樹脂
00:36
in and of themselves他們自己 -- neither也不 of which哪一個 can make glue,
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兩種都無法拿來單獨製成膠水
00:39
but when you put the two together一起,
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但如果把它們混在一起
00:41
something happens發生. A bond takes place地點,
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它就會發生作用,產生黏性
00:42
and you get this very strong強大, powerful強大
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然後形成一種非常強力的
00:44
adhesive膠粘劑.
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黏著劑
00:46
Well, in this technique技術,
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過去的20年左右,
00:48
what I've tried試著 to do is kind of
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我嘗試著
00:50
gather收集 all of the knowledge知識 that the bread-baking麵包烘焙 world世界,
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將烘培麵包的知識、
00:52
the artisan工匠 bread-baking麵包烘焙 community社區,
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與整個烘培業、
00:54
has been trying to accumulate積累 over the last 20 years年份 or so --
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和這個技術結合在一起。
00:57
since以來 we've我們已經 been engaged訂婚 in a bread麵包 renaissance再生 in America美國 --
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我們都致力於美國麵包的復興
01:00
and put it together一起 to come up with a method方法
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也想齊心協力研發出一種能做出
01:03
that would help to take whole-grain全麥 breads麵包.
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美味五榖麵包的方法
01:06
And let's face面對 it, everyone's大家的 trying to move移動 towards whole整個 grains穀物.
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但誰不是朝這方向邁進呢?
01:09
We finally最後, after 40 years年份 of knowing會心
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四十年前,我們已經知道
01:12
that wholegrain全麥 was a healthier健康 option選項,
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五榖麵包是個較健康的選擇
01:14
we're finally最後 getting得到 to the point where we actually其實 are tipping小費 over
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現在,終於做到更大的突破
01:17
and attempting嘗試 to actually其實 eat them.
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人們開始試著真的吃它了!
01:19
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
01:21
The challenge挑戰, though雖然, for a wholegrain全麥 baker麵包師傅 is,
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但對五榖麵包烘培師父真正的挑戰
01:23
you know, how do you make it taste味道 good?
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是要如何將它做得好吃?
01:26
Because whole整個 grain糧食 -- it's easy簡單 with white白色 flour麵粉
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用白麵粉很容易就能做出好吃的麵包,
01:28
to make a good-tasting口感好 bread麵包. White白色 flour麵粉 is sweet.
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因為白麵粉是甜的
01:31
It's mainly主要 starch澱粉, and starch澱粉, when you break打破 it down --
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它的主要成份是澱粉,而澱粉分解後
01:34
what is starch澱粉? It's -- thank you -- sugar, yes.
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會是什麼?是...謝謝!沒錯,就是糖
01:37
So a baker麵包師傅, and a good baker麵包師傅,
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所以,一個厲害的烘培師
01:39
knows知道 how to pull or draw forth向前
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就懂得要怎麼引出
01:42
the inherent固有 sugar trapped被困 in the starch澱粉.
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澱粉裡含有的糖
01:45
With whole整個 grain糧食 bread麵包, you have other obstacles障礙.
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但做五榖麵包,你會遇到別的困難
01:47
You've got bran, which哪一個 is probably大概 the healthiest健康 part部分 of the bread麵包 for us,
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五榖面包含有麥麩,這大概是麵包裡最健康的部份了
01:50
or the fiber纖維 for us because it is just loaded with fiber纖維,
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因為它含有大量的纖維
01:53
for the bran is fiber纖維.
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麥麩富含纖維
01:55
It's got germ病菌. Those are the good things,
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還有胚芽,也是個好東西
01:57
but those aren't the tastiest美味 parts部分 of the wheat小麥.
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但卻不是小麥裡最好吃的部份
01:59
So whole整個 grain糧食 breads麵包 historically歷史
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所以,歷來,
02:02
have had sort分類 of this onus責任 of being存在 health健康 food餐飲 breads麵包,
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五榖麵包背負著"健康食品"的重擔
02:04
and people don't like to eat,
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人們不喜歡吃所謂的"健康食品"
02:06
quote引用, health健康 food餐飲. They like to eat healthy健康 and healthily健康,
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雖然大家喜歡吃得健康
02:09
but when we think of something as a health健康 food餐飲,
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但當我們提到"健康食品"的時候
02:11
we think of it as something we eat out of obligation義務,
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都會想到一些不情願吃的東西
02:14
not out of passion and love for the flavor味道.
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不是因為自己愛那個口味而吃它
02:17
And ultimately最終, the challenge挑戰 of the baker麵包師傅,
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所以,對烘培師、讀餐飲的學生、
02:20
the challenge挑戰 of every一切 culinary烹飪 student學生, of every一切 chef廚師,
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以及廚師而言,最終極的挑戰,
02:22
is to deliver交付 flavor味道.
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就是傳達食物的美味
02:25
Flavor味道 is king國王. Flavor味道 rules規則.
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美味是至尊,美味決定一切。
02:27
I call it the flavor味道 rule規則. Flavor味道 rules規則.
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我稱它為“美味法則”,美味決定一切。
02:29
And -- and
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因此 --
02:31
you can get somebody to eat something that's good for them once一旦,
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你可以讓人們嘗試對他們有益的食物,
02:34
but they won't慣於 eat it again if they don't like it, right?
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但他們如果不喜歡的話,就不會再試下一次,對吧?
02:37
So, this is the challenge挑戰 for this bread麵包.
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這也是製作這個麵包的挑戰
02:39
We're going to try this at lunch午餐, and
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待會兒午餐時間我們可以試吃看看
02:41
I'll explain說明 a bit more about it,
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我先說多一點關於它的故事
02:43
but it's made製作 not only with two types類型 of pre-doughs預麵團 --
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它不是只用兩種生麵團做成的
02:46
this attempt嘗試, again, at bringing使 out flavor味道
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我們是要試著把味道帶出來,
02:48
is to make a piece of dough麵團
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秘訣是在將麵團加入酵母的前一天
02:50
the day before that is not leavened.
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就先做好一個麵團
02:53
It's just dough麵團 that is wet.
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這個麵團是濕潤的
02:55
It's hydrated水合 dough麵團 we call "the soaker透雨" --
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這含有水份的的麵團,我們叫它”酒鬼“
02:57
that helps幫助 to start開始 enzyme activity活動.
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它對發酵過程有幫助
02:59
And enzymes are the secret秘密, kind of, ingredient成分 in dough麵團
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而酵素就像是引出麵團香味的
03:02
that brings帶來 out flavor味道.
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秘密武器
03:04
It starts啟動 to release發布 the sugars trapped被困 in the starch澱粉.
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酵素的功用就是
03:06
That's what enzymes are doing.
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將澱粉裡的糖釋放出來
03:08
And so, if we can release發布 some of those,
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所以,如果能釋放其中一部分
03:10
they become成為 accessible無障礙 to us in our palate.
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我們的味覺神經就會偵查到它
03:12
They become成為 accessible無障礙 to the yeast酵母 as food餐飲.
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酵母也會開始作用
03:15
They become成為 accessible無障礙 to the oven烤箱 for caramelization焦糖
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麵包也才能在烤箱裡產生焦糖化的過程
03:18
to give us a beautiful美麗 crust脆皮.
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讓外皮香脆
03:20
The other pre-dough預麵團
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另一個麵團
03:22
that we make is fermented發酵 -- our pre-ferment升遷.
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是已經先發酵過的,也就是老麵
03:24
And it's made製作 -- it can be a sourdough拓荒者 starter起動機, or what we call a "bigaBIGA"
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可以把它當成發酵麵團的觸媒,也稱它做 ”biga(意式酵頭)“
03:27
or any other kind of pre-fermented預發酵 dough麵團 with a little yeast酵母 in it,
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或是使用任何其他含有酵母、先經過發酵的麵團
03:30
and that starts啟動 to develop發展 flavor味道 also.
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它會把麵包的香味帶出來
03:33
And on day two, we put those two pieces together一起. That's the epoxy環氧.
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第二天,我們把兩團麵混合在一起,這就是”環氧合成樹脂烘培法“
03:36
And we're hoping希望 that, sort分類 of, the
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然後,我們期待
03:38
enzyme piece of dough麵團
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加入酵素的麵團
03:40
becomes the fuel汽油 pack for the leavened piece of dough麵團,
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能夠成為酵母麵團的能量來源
03:43
and when we put them together一起 and add the final最後 ingredients配料,
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然後,將它們混合後,我們再加入最後的幾項材料
03:46
we can create創建 a bread麵包 that does evoke喚起
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我們就可以做出一個
03:48
the full充分 potential潛在 of flavor味道 trapped被困 in the grain糧食.
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能激發出五榖中所有香味的麵包了
03:51
That's the challenge挑戰. Okay, so, now, what we --
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這可真是個挑戰啊。好,現在,
03:53
in the journey旅程 of wheat小麥, let's go back and look at these 12 stages階段.
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在這個小麥之旅中,我們來回顧一下這12道程序
03:57
I'm going to go through通過 them very quickly很快 and then revisit重溫 them.
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我會先很快的帶過,之後再回顧一次
03:59
Okay, we're going to start開始 with the first stage階段.
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從第一個步驟開始
04:03
And this is what every一切 student學生 has to begin開始 with.
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這也是所有的學生最先必須學習的
04:06
Everyone大家 who works作品 in the culinary烹飪 world世界 knows知道 that
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每個烹飪界裡的人都一定知道
04:08
the first stage階段 of cooking烹飪 is "mise en place地點,"
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第一步驟就是 "mise en place"(法文)
04:11
which哪一個 is just a French法國 way of saying, "get organized有組織的."
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也就是“井井有條”
04:16
Everything in its place地點. First stage階段.
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每樣東西都各就各位。第一步。
04:19
So in baking we call it scaling縮放 -- weighing稱重 out the ingredients配料.
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而烘培裡,我們就要做秤重的工作:量材料的重量
04:21
Stage階段 two is mixing混合. We take the ingredients配料 and we mix混合 them.
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第二步驟是混合,把材料混合在一起
04:24
We have to develop發展 the gluten麩質.
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我們得做出麵筋
04:26
There's no gluten麩質 in flour麵粉. There's only the potential潛在 for gluten麩質.
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但麵粉裡並沒有麵筋這個成分
04:29
Here's這裡的 another另一個 kind of prefiguring預告著 of epoxy環氧
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所以在這兒,又有另一種類似環氧合成樹脂的做法
04:32
because we've我們已經 got glutenin麥谷蛋白 and gliadin醇溶蛋白,
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因為我們有 小麥蛋白 和 麥醇溶蛋白
04:34
neither也不 of which哪一個 are strong強大 enough足夠 to make a good bread麵包.
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兩種都沒辦法單獨製做出好麵包
04:37
But when they get hydrated水合 and they bond to each other,
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但當遇到水份時,它們會結合在一起
04:40
they create創建 a stronger molecule分子, a stronger protein蛋白 we call gluten麩質.
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形成一個更有力的蛋白質分子,我們稱之為 麵筋
04:44
And so we, in the mixing混合 process處理,
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所以在混合的程序中
04:46
have to develop發展 the gluten麩質,
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我們要做出麵筋
04:48
we have to activate啟用 the leaven or the yeast酵母,
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也要讓酵素、酵母產生作用
04:51
and we have to essentially實質上 distribute分發 all the ingredients配料 evenly.
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也要把材料按準確的比例加入
04:54
Then we get into fermentation發酵, the third第三 stage階段,
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然後進入第三階段--發酵
04:56
which哪一個 is really where the flavor味道 develops發展.
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也是香味真正發展的過程
04:58
The yeast酵母 comes alive and starts啟動 eating the sugars,
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酵母開始活了過來,然後開始吃掉糖類
05:01
creating創建 carbon dioxide二氧化碳 and alcohol --
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產生二氧化碳和酒精
05:03
essentially實質上 it's burping打嗝 and sweating出汗, which哪一個 is what bread麵包 is.
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基本上,也就是酵母正在打嗝、流汗
05:06
It's yeast酵母 burps打嗝 and sweat.
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而麵包就是酵母打的嗝、流的汗
05:08
And somehow不知何故, this is transformed改造 --
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但基於某種原因
05:10
the yeast酵母 burps打嗝 and sweats盜汗 are later後來 transformed改造 --
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酵母的嗝和汗會被轉化
05:13
and this is really getting得到 to the heart of what makes品牌 bread麵包 so special特別
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這過程也漸漸地讓麵包形成一個轉化食品
05:16
is that it is a transformational轉型 food餐飲,
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也正是麵包之所以特別的原因
05:18
and we're going to explore探索 that in a minute分鐘.
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我們等一下就會談到這部份
05:20
But then, quickly很快 through通過 the next下一個 few少數 stages階段.
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但接下來,很快的進入下幾個階段
05:22
We, after it's fermented發酵 and it's developed發達,
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在經過發酵、成長、
05:24
started開始 to develop發展 flavor味道 and character字符,
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香味也引出來後
05:26
we divide劃分 it into smaller units單位.
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我們把它分切成小塊
05:28
And then we take those units單位 and we shape形狀 them. We give them a little pre-shape預形,
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然後把這些小麵團稍微整型
05:31
usually平時 a round回合 or a little torpedo魚雷 shape形狀, sometimes有時.
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通常是做成圓形,有時也會做成魚雷的形狀
05:34
That's called "rounding四捨五入."
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這步驟我們稱為"揉圓"
05:36
And there's a short rest休息 period. It can be for a few少數 seconds.
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然後是一小段休息時間,這可能需要幾秒鐘,
05:39
It can be for 20 or 30 minutes分鐘. We call that resting休息 or benching鉗工.
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但也可能要2、30分鐘,我們稱這過程為"醒麵"
05:42
Then we go into final最後 shaping成型,
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接下來就是最後的塑型
05:44
"panning搖攝" -- which哪一個 means手段 putting the shaped成形 loaf麵包 on a pan.
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然後是"入模",也就是把塑型後的麵團放上烤盤
05:48
This takes a second第二, but it's a distinctive獨特 stage階段.
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過程只要幾秒鐘,但是個非常特別的步驟
05:52
It can be in a basket. It can be in a loaf麵包 pan, but we pan it.
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可以放到籃子裡、吐司模,但我們選擇烤盤
05:56
And then, stage階段 nine.
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接著,第九步驟
05:58
The fermentation發酵 which哪一個 started開始 at stage階段 three is continuing繼續
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第三步驟的發酵在整段過程中一直持續進行
06:01
through通過 all these other stages階段. Again, developing發展 more flavor味道.
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讓麵包產出更濃郁的香味
06:04
The final最後 fermentation發酵 takes place地點 in stage階段 nine.
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而最後的發酵就是在這第九階段
06:06
We call it "proofing打樣."
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也就是"二次發酵"
06:08
Proofing打樣 means手段 to prove證明 that the dough麵團 is alive.
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二次發酵是為了證明這麵團是活的
06:11
And at stage階段 nine we get the dough麵團 to the final最後 shape形狀,
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在這階段,我們也整理一下麵團形狀
06:14
and it goes into the oven烤箱 -- stage階段 10.
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然後放入烤箱--這是第十個步驟
06:16
Three transformations轉換 take place地點 in the oven烤箱.
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烤箱理會有三個轉化過程發生
06:19
The sugars in the dough麵團 caramelize焦糖 in the crust脆皮.
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麵團裡的糖把表皮焦化
06:22
They give us that beautiful美麗 brown棕色 crust脆皮.
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帶來漂亮的金黃色外皮
06:24
Only the crust脆皮 can caramelize焦糖. It's the only place地點 that gets得到 hot enough足夠.
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只有表皮會被焦化,因為只有它會遇到夠高的溫度
06:27
Inside, the proteins蛋白質 --
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麵團內部,蛋白質、
06:29
this gluten麩質 -- coagulates凝結.
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麵筋,凝結在一起
06:31
When it gets得到 to about 160 degrees,
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當到達160度左右時
06:33
the proteins蛋白質 all line up
and they create創建 structure結構體,
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蛋白質開始排列一個整齊結構
06:35
the gluten麩質 structure結構體 --
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就是麵筋結構
06:37
what ultimately最終 we will call the crumb of the bread麵包.
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也就是最後會看到的麵包屑
06:40
And the starches澱粉, when they reach達到 about 180 degrees,
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然後當澱粉在達到180度時
06:42
gelatinize膠凝.
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它會呈現膠狀
06:44
And gelatinization糊化 is yet然而 another另一個
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這膠化的過程就是另一個
06:47
oven烤箱 transformation轉型.
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在烤箱裡發生的轉化過程
06:49
Coagulation凝結, caramelization焦糖 and gelatinization糊化 --
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凝結化、焦糖化、膠狀化
06:52
when the starch澱粉 is thick and they absorb吸收 all the moisture濕氣 that's around them,
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當澱粉變得濃稠,且吸取了所有週邊的水份後
06:55
they -- they kind of swell, and then they burst爆裂.
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它就膨脹起來,直到脹破為止
06:58
And they burst爆裂, and they spill their guts膽量 into the bread麵包.
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澱粉脹破時,把它的內臟都炸到麵包裡了
07:01
So basically基本上 now we're eating yeast酵母 sweats盜汗 --
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所以基本上,我們是在吃酵母流的汗、
07:03
sweat, burps打嗝 and starch澱粉 guts膽量.
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打的嗝、和澱粉的內臟
07:06
Again, transformed改造 in stage階段 10 in the oven烤箱
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重複一次,第十階段是在烤箱裡的轉化過程
07:09
because what went into the oven烤箱 as dough麵團
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因為進烤箱時是個麵團
07:12
comes out in stage階段 11 as bread麵包.
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出烤箱時就變成麵包了,也就是第十一步驟
07:15
And stage階段 11, we call it cooling冷卻 --
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第十一階段,我們稱之為"冷卻"
07:17
because we never really eat the bread麵包 right away.
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我們從不吃剛出爐的麵包
07:19
There's a little carry-over結轉 baking.
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因為有些部分還在運作
07:21
The proteins蛋白質 have to set up, strengthen加強 and firm公司 up.
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蛋白質還需要建構、強化
07:25
And then we have stage階段 12, which哪一個 the textbooks教科書 call "packaging打包,"
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接著,才是第十二步驟,也就是教科書裡說的"包裝"
07:29
but my students學生們 call "eating."
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但我的學生稱之為"開動"!
07:31
And so, we're going to be on our own擁有 journey旅程 today今天 from wheat小麥 to eat,
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於是今天的小麥之旅就從"小麥"到了"進食"
07:34
and in a few少數 minutes分鐘 we will try this,
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再一會兒我們就可以來試試這個
07:36
and see if we have succeeded成功
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看看我們是否有成功地
07:39
in fulfilling履行 this baker's麵包 mission任務 of pulling out flavor味道.
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達成烘培師的任務,把麵包香味引出來
07:42
But I want to go back now and revisit重溫 these steps腳步,
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但我想先回顧一下幾個步驟
07:45
and talk about it from the standpoint立場 of transformation轉型,
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然後以轉化過程為起點、談一下那些步驟
07:47
because I really believe that
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因為我深深相信
07:49
all things can be understood了解 --
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每件事都可以被理解
07:52
and this is not my own擁有 idea理念. This goes back to the Scholastics經院哲學家 and to the Ancients古人 --
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而且這不是我自己的想法,而是學者、先人的智慧--
07:55
that all things can be understood了解 on four levels水平:
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每件事都可被理解為四種層面:
07:57
the literal文字, the metaphoric隱喻 or poetic詩意 level水平,
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字面意義層面、隱喻或詩意的層面、
08:01
the political政治 or ethical合乎道德的 level水平.
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政治或道德層面、
08:04
And ultimately最終, the mystical神秘 or sometimes有時 called the "anagogicalanagogical" level水平.
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以及最深層的神祕層面,也稱作類比層面
08:08
It's hard to get to those levels水平 unless除非 you go through通過 the literal文字.
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除非你了解字面意義,否則很難深入到其他層面
08:11
In fact事實, Dante says you can't understand理解 the three deeper更深 levels水平
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事實上,但丁說過:除非你先理解了字義的層面
08:14
unless除非 you first understand理解 the literal文字 level水平,
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否則無法了解較深的這三層意義
08:17
so that's why we're talking literally按照字面 about bread麵包.
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這也是為什麼我們現在要聊麵包的字面意義
08:19
But let's kind of look at these stages階段 again
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我們再從這些相關的要素、儘可能到更深層地
08:21
from the standpoint立場 of connections連接 to possibly或者 a deeper更深 level水平 --
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再看一次這幾個步驟
08:25
all in my quest尋求 for answering回答 the question,
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努力尋找出這問題的答案:
08:27
"What is it about bread麵包 that's so special特別?"
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"麵包到底有什麼特別?"
08:30
And fulfilling履行 this mission任務 of evoking喚起 the full充分 potential潛在 of flavor味道.
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進而達成引出麵包裡所有潛在美味的任務
08:34
Because what happens發生 is,
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因為事情是這樣的
08:36
bread麵包 begins開始 as wheat小麥 or any other grain糧食.
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麵包源於小麥或其他穀類
08:39
But what's wheat小麥? Wheat小麥 is a grass
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但什麼是小麥?
08:41
that grows成長 in the field領域.
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小麥是種長在田裡的草
08:43
And, like all grasses, at a certain某些 point it puts看跌期權 out seeds種子.
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然後就像其他所有草一樣,長到某個程度時,它會散播種籽
08:47
And we harvest收成 those seeds種子, and those are the wheat小麥 kernels.
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然後我們收割那些籽,也就是麥子仁
08:50
Now, in order訂購 to harvest收成 it -- I mean, what's harvesting收穫?
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然後,為了要收割--什麼是收割?
08:52
It's just a euphemism婉辭 for killing謀殺, right?
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就是婉轉的說出"殺了它"嘛,對吧?
08:56
I mean, that's what's harvest收成 -- we say we harvest收成 the pig, you know?
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那就是收割的意義嘛 -- 我們會說"收割豬隻"嗎?
08:58
Yes, we slaughter屠宰, you know. Yes, that's life.
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其實我們屠宰呀~而那是對動物我們這麼說
09:01
We harvest收成 the wheat小麥,
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我們收割小麥
09:03
and in harvesting收穫 it, we kill it.
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說收割,其實就是殺了它們
09:05
Now, wheat小麥 is alive,
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現在,小麥是有生命的
09:07
and as we harvest收成 it, it gives up its seeds種子.
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我們收割它,它奉獻出它的籽
09:11
Now, at least最小 with seeds種子 we have the potential潛在 for future未來 life.
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至少,有種籽的話,就有機會培育新生命
09:14
We can plant those in the ground地面.
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我們可以把它種在土裡
09:16
And we save保存 some of those for the next下一個 generation.
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然後也留一些到下一輪再栽種
09:18
But most of those seeds種子 get crushed
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但多數的籽會被碾磨
09:20
and turned轉身 into flour麵粉.
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成為麵粉
09:22
And at that point, the wheat小麥 has suffered遭遇 the ultimate最終 indignity侮辱.
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在這一刻,小麥的尊嚴遭受到最嚴重的踐踏
09:25
It's not only been killed殺害,
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不只被殺死
09:27
but it's been denied否認 any potential潛在 for creating創建 future未來 life.
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而是它培育新生命的可能性都完全抹殺
09:30
So we turn it into flour麵粉.
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變成了麵粉
09:33
So as I said, I think bread麵包 is a transformational轉型 food餐飲.
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就如我說,我認為麵包是轉化食物
09:36
The first transformation轉型 -- and, by the way,
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順帶一提,對我而言
09:39
the definition定義 of transformation轉型 for me is
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第一道轉化的定義是
09:41
a radical激進 change更改 from one thing into something else其他.
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一個物質徹底地轉變成另一個東西
09:44
O.K.? Radical激進, not subtle微妙.
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可以嗎? 是徹底的,不是微微的而已
09:46
Not like hot water made製作 cold,
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不是像熱水變成冷水
09:48
or cold water turned轉身 hot,
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或冷水變熱
09:50
but water boiled煮沸 off and becoming變得 steam蒸汽.
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而是水滾了之後、昇華成水蒸氣
09:53
That's a transformation轉型, two different不同 things.
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是這樣的轉化喔,兩者是不一樣的
09:55
Well, in this case案件, the first transformation轉型
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所以,這樣的情況下,第一道轉化
09:57
is alive to dead.
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是從生到死
10:00
I'd call that radical激進.
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我會說這很徹底
10:03
So, we've我們已經 got now this flour麵粉.
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現在有了麵粉
10:06
And what do we do? We add some water.
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然後呢?我們加點水進去
10:08
In stage階段 one, we weigh稱重 it.
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在第一階段,我們秤秤它
10:10
In stage階段 two, we add water and salt to it, mix混合 it together一起,
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第二階段,加點水和鹽,然後將它們混合
10:12
and we create創建 something that we call "clay粘土."
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然後就形成了我們說的”粘土“
10:14
It's like clay粘土.
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它很像粘土
10:16
And we infuse注入 that clay粘土
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接著我們在粘土裡加入
10:18
with an ingredient成分 that we call "leaven."
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一種叫做酵素的原料
10:21
In this case案件, it's yeast酵母, but yeast酵母 is leaven. What does leaven mean?
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在這是用酵母,酵母是種酵素。什麼是酵素?
10:24
Leaven comes from the root word that means手段 enliven活躍 --
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酵素(leaven)這個字是從enliven的字根來的
10:28
to vivifyvivify, to bring帶來 to life.
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意思是:使之活躍、有生氣
10:32
By the way, what's the Hebrew希伯來語 word for clay粘土? Adam亞當.
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對了,粘土的希伯來文怎麼說?--亞當(adam)
10:36
You see, the baker麵包師傅, in this moment時刻,
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你看,這好像說明了
10:38
has become成為, in a sense,
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烘培師傅就如同是
10:40
sort分類 of, the God of his dough麵團, you know, and his dough麵團, well,
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麵團的造物主,而麵團這個不具特別智慧的生物體
10:43
while it's not an intelligent智能 life form形成, is now alive.
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現在被賦予了生命
10:46
And we know it's alive because in stage階段 three,
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之所以知道它是有生命的,是因為在第三階段時
10:48
it grows成長. Growth發展 is the proof證明 of life.
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它會發酵脹大,而這就是生命的證明
10:51
And while it's growing生長, all these
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當它在膨脹的過程中
10:53
literal文字 transformations轉換 are taking服用 place地點.
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轉化的過程就產生了
10:55
Enzymes are breaking破壞 forth向前 sugars.
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酵素開始分解糖類
10:57
Yeast酵母 is eating sugar and
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酵母開始啃食糖
10:59
turning車削 it into carbon dioxide二氧化碳 and alcohol.
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然後轉化成二氧化碳和酒精
11:02
Bacteria is in there, eating the same相同 sugars,
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細菌也在裡面吃著那些糖
11:04
turning車削 them into acids.
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然後轉化成酸類
11:06
In other words, personality個性 and character's角色 being存在 developed發達 in this dough麵團
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換句話說,在烘培師的細心觀測下
11:09
under the watchful注意的 gaze凝視 of the baker麵包師傅.
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這麵團的內在和特性都被提昇了
11:12
And the baker's麵包 choices選擇 all along沿 the way
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而烘培師在烘培過程中的所有選擇
11:14
determine確定 the outcome結果 of the product產品.
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都決定著成品的結果
11:18
A subtle微妙 change更改 in temperature溫度 -- a subtle微妙 change更改 in time --
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無論是些許地改變溫度、或是稍微地調整時間 --
11:21
it's all about a balancing平衡 act法案 between之間 time, temperature溫度
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烘培就是在時間、溫度、材料之間取得平衡點
11:23
and ingredients配料. That's the art藝術 of baking.
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這就是烘培的藝術
11:25
So all these things are determined決心 by the baker麵包師傅,
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這些要素是靠烘培師來決定
11:27
and the bread麵包 goes through通過 some stages階段, and characters人物 develop發展.
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而麵包則是通過了幾階段的考驗、內在有了提昇
11:30
And then we divide劃分 it, and this one big piece of dough麵團
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接著,我們將它切成較小塊的麵團
11:32
is divided分為 into smaller units單位, and each of those units單位
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然後再由烘培師幫這些小麵團
11:34
are given特定 shape形狀 by the baker麵包師傅.
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塑造形狀
11:36
And as they're shaped成形, they're raised上調 again,
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被塑完形後,它們會再膨脹一次
11:38
all along沿 proving證明 that they're alive,
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這些都證明了它們是有生命的
11:40
and developing發展 character字符.
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而且內在也是在改變的
11:42
And at stage階段 10, we take it to the oven烤箱.
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第十階段,將它們送進烤箱
11:45
It's still dough麵團. Nobody沒有人 eats bread麵包 dough麵團 --
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它們還是麵團而已。沒有人真的生吃麵團,
11:47
a few少數 people do, I think, but not too many許多.
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很少數的人會啦,但不是太多
11:49
I've met會見 some dough麵團 eaters食客, but --
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我有碰過幾個愛吃生麵團的人 --
11:51
it's not the staff員工 of life, right? Bread麵包 is the staff員工 of life.
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不過生麵團不能當主食,對吧?但麵包就是主食啦
11:55
But dough麵團 is what we're working加工 with,
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生麵團是還需要被我們加工的
11:57
and we take that dough麵團 to the oven烤箱,
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然後送往烤箱
11:59
and it goes into the oven烤箱. As soon不久 as the interior室內 temperature溫度 of that dough麵團
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接著進入烤箱。當烤箱內的溫度
12:03
crosses十字架 the threshold of 140 degrees,
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高於140度的時候
12:05
it passes通行證 what we call the "thermal death死亡 point."
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就超過了我們所謂的”致死溫度“
12:10
Students學生們 love that TDPTDP. They think it's the name名稱 of a video視頻 game遊戲.
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學生們很愛這個名稱,因為聽起來很像電玩遊戲
12:13
But it's the thermal death死亡 point -- all life ceases停止 there.
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但達到這個致死溫度的時候,所有的生物都停止活動
12:16
The yeast酵母, whose誰的 mission任務 it has been up till直到 now to raise提高 the dough麵團,
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酵母的任務要到麵團發酵膨脹後,才算完成
12:20
to enliven活躍 it, to vivifyvivify it,
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它得讓麵團活躍、有生氣
12:22
in order訂購 to complete完成 its mission任務,
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才算達成任務
12:24
which哪一個 is also to turn this dough麵團 into bread麵包,
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也就是要讓麵團變成麵包
12:26
has to give up its life.
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它就必須犧牲自己的性命
12:28
So you see the symbolism象徵 at work? It's starting開始 to come forth向前 a little bit, you know.
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你看得出來這些象徵意義嗎?接下來會再明顯一些
12:31
It's starting開始 to make sense to me --
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越來越有道理--
12:35
what goes in is dough麵團,
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送進烤箱的是麵團
12:37
what comes out is bread麵包 --
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而出來的是麵包
12:39
or it goes in alive,
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或者說:活著進去
12:41
comes out dead.
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死著出來
12:43
Third第三 transformation轉型. First transformation轉型, alive to dead.
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這是第三階段的轉化。第一個轉化是由活到死
12:46
Second第二 transformation轉型, dead brought back to life.
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第二個轉化是死而復生
12:50
Third第三 transformation轉型, alive to dead --
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第三個轉化是又再由活到死 --
12:52
but dough麵團 to bread麵包.
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但從麵團變成了麵包
12:55
Or another另一個 analogy比喻 would be,
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或是可以比喻成
12:57
a caterpillar毛蟲 has been turned轉身 into a butterfly蝴蝶.
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毛毛蟲變成了蝴蝶
13:00
And it's what comes out of the oven烤箱
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也就是從烤箱出來
13:02
that is what we call the staff員工 of life.
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被我們稱為主食的東西
13:05
This is the product產品
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這就是完成品
13:07
that
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這個
13:10
everyone大家 in the world世界 eats, that is so difficult to give up.
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是全世界的人都在吃、非常難戒掉的東西
13:14
It's so
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人們多麼地
13:16
deeply embedded嵌入式 in our psyches的心智 that
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根深蒂固的認為
13:19
bread麵包 is used as a symbol符號 for life.
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麵包就是生活的象徵
13:22
It's used as a symbol符號 for transformation轉型.
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也是轉化的象徵
13:27
And so, as we get to stage階段 12 and we partake參加 of that,
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於是,到了第十二步驟,我們參與了這過程
13:30
again completing完成 the life cycle週期,
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再次完成一個生命的循環
13:33
you know, we have a chance機會 to essentially實質上 ingest攝取 that --
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當我們有機會真的吞下麵包時
13:36
it nurtures滋養 us, and we continue繼續 to carry攜帶 on
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它供給我們養分,然後我們有機會
13:39
and have opportunities機會 to ponder思考
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繼續思索
13:41
things like this.
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像這類的事情
13:43
So this is what I've learned學到了 from bread麵包.
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這就我從麵包上學到的
13:45
This is what bread麵包 has taught me in my journey旅程.
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麵包讓我受惠良多
13:48
And what we're going to attempt嘗試 to do
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接下來,關於這個麵包
13:50
with this bread麵包 here, again,
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除了我們剛提過的之外
13:52
is to use, in addition加成 to everything we talked about,
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我們想要再試著做的是
13:55
this bread麵包 we're going to call "spent花費 grain糧食 bread麵包"
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把它的名字叫做”榖粕麵包“
13:58
because, as you know, bread-making麵包製作 is very similar類似 to beer-making啤酒製造.
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因為,我們知道,做麵包跟做啤酒差不多
14:01
Beer啤酒 is basically基本上 liquid液體 bread麵包,
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啤酒基本上就是液態的麵包
14:03
or bread麵包 is solid固體 beer啤酒.
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麵包就是固態的啤酒
14:05
And --
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而且...
14:07
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
14:08
they -- they're invented發明 around the same相同 time. I think beer啤酒 came來了 first.
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它們是在差不多時期被發明的。我想是先有啤酒
14:11
And the Egyptian埃及人 who was tending撫育 the beer啤酒 fell下跌 asleep睡著
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但一個負責照料啤酒的埃及工人睡著了
14:14
in the hot, Egyptian埃及人 sun太陽, and it turned轉身 into bread麵包.
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結果啤酒在炙熱的埃及陽光加溫下,做成了麵包
14:16
But we've我們已經 got this bread麵包,
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而對於這個麵包
14:18
and what I did here is to try to, again,
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我所做的是試著
14:20
evoke喚起 even more flavor味道 from this grain糧食,
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從榖類裡引出更多的香味
14:24
was we've我們已經 added添加 into it the spent花費 grain糧食 from beer-making啤酒製造.
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像是加入製做啤酒後留下的穀粕
14:27
And if you make this bread麵包, you can use any kind of spent花費 grain糧食 from any type類型 of beer啤酒.
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任何種類的啤酒的榖粕都可以拿來做這個麵包
14:31
I like dark黑暗 spent花費 grain糧食. Today今天 we're using運用 a light spent花費 grain糧食
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我偏好黑啤酒的榖粕,而今天用的是淡啤酒的榖渣
14:34
that's actually其實 from, like, some kind of a lager啤酒 of some sort分類 --
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可以用拉格啤酒
14:37
a light lager啤酒 or an ale麥酒 -- that is wheat小麥 and barley大麥 that's been toasted.
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或是麥酒(艾爾酒),就是用烤過的大麥和小麥來製作的
14:41
In other words, the beer-maker啤酒製造商 knows知道 also how to evoke喚起 flavor味道 from the grains穀物
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換句話說,啤酒製造商都知道要用發芽、製成麥芽和烘培的技術
14:44
by using運用 sprouting發芽 and malting啤酒 and roasting焙燒.
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來把穀類裡的香味引出來
14:47
We're going to take some of that, and put it into the bread麵包.
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我們就要把這技術放到麵包的烘培裡
14:49
So now we not only have a high-fiber高纖維 bread麵包,
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所以,我們現在有的不僅是高纖麵包
14:52
but now fiber纖維 on top最佳 of fiber纖維.
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而是比高纖還要高纖
14:54
And so this is, again, hopefully希望
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也希望這不僅是一個
14:57
not only a healthy健康 bread麵包,
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健康的麵包
14:59
but a bread麵包 that you will enjoy請享用.
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也是一個讓你吃到意猶未盡的麵包
15:01
So, if I, kind of, break打破 this bread麵包,
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我把它撥開
15:04
maybe we can share分享 this now a little bit here.
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大家分著嚐嚐看
15:07
We'll start開始 a little piece here,
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一人一小塊
15:09
and I'm going to take a little piece here --
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我自己也來一點
15:11
I think I'd better taste味道 it myself before you have it at lunch午餐.
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我想在你們吃之前,我最好自己先試試
15:14
I'll leave離開 you
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在離開前,
15:17
with what I call the baker's麵包 blessing祝福.
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我送給大家 “烘培師的祝福” --
15:19
May可能 your crust脆皮 be crisp,
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祝你的麵包皮香香脆脆
15:21
and your bread麵包 always rise上升.
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願你的麵包永遠發酵膨脹
15:24
Thank you.
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謝謝各位

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Peter Reinhart - Baker
Master breadmaker Peter Reinhart is also a teacher, author and theologian. Through his lectures and numerous cookbooks, he channels the science of baking into deep, spiritual lessons -- and dispels stale myths about the nature (and flavor) of good, wholesome bread.

Why you should listen

Peter Reinhart's food work began as ministry outreach and later became a full-fledged culinary and teaching career. Both an educator and lay minister, his lessons focus on both secular and spiritual education. One of his books, Bread Upon the Waters: A Pilgrimage Toward Self Discovery and Spiritual Truth is first in a series of books exploring nourishment in terms of food and one's life mission.

Reinhart is founder of the award-winning Brother Juniper's Bakery in Santa Rosa, California. He's now a full-time faculty member in the International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson and Wales University. He has also developed a line of frozen gourmet pizzas, calzones, toaster snacks and bagels for Amy's Kitchen.

His latest book is Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor.

More profile about the speaker
Peter Reinhart | Speaker | TED.com