EG 2007
Mark Bittman: What's wrong with what we eat
Mark Bittman o tome što je loše u onome što jedemo
Filmed:
Readability: 4
4,713,450 views
U ovom strasnom i duhovitom govoru, Mark Bittman, New York Timesov pisac o hrani, prosuđuje što je loše u načinu kako danas jedemo (previše mesa, premalo biljaka, previše brze hrane, premalo domaće hrane), te zašto to dovodi cijeli planet u rizik.
Mark Bittman - Food writer
Mark Bittman is a bestselling cookbook author, journalist and television personality. His friendly, informal approach to home cooking has shown millions that fancy execution is no substitute for flavor and soul. Full bio
Mark Bittman is a bestselling cookbook author, journalist and television personality. His friendly, informal approach to home cooking has shown millions that fancy execution is no substitute for flavor and soul. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:16
I write about food. I write about cooking.
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Ja pišem o hrani. Pišem o kuhanju.
00:18
I take it quite seriously,
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Shvaćam to prilično ozbiljno,
00:20
but I'm here to talk about something
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no ovdje sam kako bih govorio o nečemu
00:22
that's become very important to me in the last year or two.
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što mi je postalo jako važno u zadnjih godinu dvije
00:26
It is about food, but it's not about cooking, per se.
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Radi se o hrani, ali ne o samom kuhanju.
00:31
I'm going to start with this picture of a beautiful cow.
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Počet ću s ovom slikom lijepe krave.
00:34
I'm not a vegetarian -- this is the old Nixon line, right?
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Ja nisam vegaterijanac - to je rekao Nixon, zar ne?
00:37
But I still think that this --
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Ali ipak mislim kako -
00:39
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
00:40
-- may be this year's version of this.
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- ovo može biti ovogodišnja verzija toga.
00:43
Now, that is only a little bit hyperbolic.
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Sada samo malo pretjerujem.
00:47
And why do I say it?
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Zašto to kažem?
00:49
Because only once before has the fate of individual people
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Zato što su samo jednom prije, sudbine pojedinih ljudi
00:53
and the fate of all of humanity
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i sudbina cijelog čovječanstva
00:55
been so intertwined.
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bili tako isprepleteni.
00:57
There was the bomb, and there's now.
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Tad je bila bomba, a i sad je.
01:00
And where we go from here is going to determine
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I kamo idemo odavde, odredit će
01:02
not only the quality and the length of our individual lives,
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ne samo kvalitetu i duljinu naših individualnih života,
01:06
but whether, if we could see the Earth a century from now,
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već, kada bismo mogli vidjeti Zemlju
01:08
we'd recognize it.
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stoljeće od danas, bismo li je prepoznali.
01:10
It's a holocaust of a different kind,
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Ovo je holokaust druge vrste,
01:12
and hiding under our desks isn't going to help.
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i skrivanje ispod stolova neće pomoći.
01:15
Start with the notion that global warming
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Počnimo sa spoznajom kako globalno zatopljenje
01:17
is not only real, but dangerous.
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nije samo stvarno, nego i opasno.
01:19
Since every scientist in the world now believes this,
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Budući da sada svaki znanstvenik na svijetu u to vjeruje,
01:22
and even President Bush has seen the light, or pretends to,
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i čak je i predjednik Bush vidio svjetlo, ili se samo pravi,
01:25
we can take this is a given.
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možemo to uzeti zdravo za gotovo.
01:28
Then hear this, please.
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Zato poslušajte ovo, molim vas.
01:30
After energy production, livestock is the second-highest contributor
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Nakon proizvodnje energije, stočarstvo je drugo po doprinosu
01:34
to atmosphere-altering gases.
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stvaranja plinova koji mijenjaju atmosferu.
01:36
Nearly one-fifth of all greenhouse gas
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Skoro jedna petina svih stakleničkih plinova
01:40
is generated by livestock production --
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nastaje uzgojem stoke -
01:42
more than transportation.
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više nego transportom.
01:44
Now, you can make all the jokes you want about cow farts,
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Možete se šaliti koliko hoćete o tome kako krava prdi,
01:48
but methane is 20 times more poisonous than CO2,
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ali metan je 20 puta otrovniji od CO2,
01:51
and it's not just methane.
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a ne radi se samo o metanu.
01:53
Livestock is also one of the biggest culprits in land degradation,
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Stoka je također jedan od glavnih krivaca u uništavanju zemljišta,
01:57
air and water pollution, water shortages and loss of biodiversity.
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zagađenju zraka i vode, nestašici vode i gubitku bioraznolikosti.
02:02
There's more.
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Ima toga još.
02:03
Like half the antibiotics in this country
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Oko polovice antibiotika u ovoj zemlji
02:06
are not administered to people, but to animals.
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nisu primijenjeni na ljudima, nego na životinjama.
02:09
But lists like this become kind of numbing, so let me just say this:
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Takvi popisi postaju šokantni, pa samo da vam kažem ovo,
02:12
if you're a progressive,
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ako ste napredni,
02:14
if you're driving a Prius, or you're shopping green,
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ako vozite Prius, kupujete ekološki,
02:17
or you're looking for organic,
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ako tražite organsko,
02:19
you should probably be a semi-vegetarian.
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vjerojatno trebate biti polu-vegatarijanac.
02:23
Now, I'm no more anti-cattle than I am anti-atom,
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E sad, ja nisam ništa više protiv krava nego što sam protiv atoma,
02:27
but it's all in the way we use these things.
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ali sve je u načinu kako koristimo te stvari.
02:29
There's another piece of the puzzle,
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Ima još jedan komadić slagalice
02:31
which Ann Cooper talked about beautifully yesterday,
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o kojem je Ann Cooper lijepo jučer govorila,
02:33
and one you already know.
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i to onaj kojeg već znate.
02:36
There's no question, none, that so-called lifestyle diseases --
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Nema sumnje - nikakve - da takozvane bolesti uzrokovane životnim stilom
02:40
diabetes, heart disease, stroke, some cancers --
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dijabetes, bolesti srca, moždani udar, neki oblici raka -
02:44
are diseases that are far more prevalent here
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su bolesti koje su daleko učestalije ovdje
02:47
than anywhere in the rest of the world.
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nego igdje drugdje na svijetu.
02:49
And that's the direct result of eating a Western diet.
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I to je izravni rezultat prehrane zapadnjačkom hranom.
02:53
Our demand for meat, dairy and refined carbohydrates --
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Naša potražnja za mesom, mliječnim proizvodima i prerađenim ugljihohidratima -
02:57
the world consumes one billion cans or bottles of Coke a day --
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svijet konzumira milijardu limenki ili boca Coca-Cole na dan -
03:02
our demand for these things, not our need, our want,
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naša potražnja za tim stvarima, ne naša potreba, naša želja -
03:06
drives us to consume way more calories than are good for us.
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vodi nas da konzumiramo daleko više kalorija nego što je dobro za nas.
03:10
And those calories are in foods that cause, not prevent, disease.
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A te kalorije su u hrani koja uzrokuje, a ne sprečava, bolesti.
03:15
Now global warming was unforeseen.
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Globalno zatopljenje nije bilo predviđeno.
03:17
We didn't know that pollution did more than cause bad visibility.
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Nismo znali da zagađenje radi išta osim što uzrokuje slabu vidljivost.
03:21
Maybe a few lung diseases here and there,
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Možda koju plućnu bolest tu i tamo,
03:23
but, you know, that's not such a big deal.
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no znate, to i nije tako velika stvar.
03:26
The current health crisis, however,
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Sadašnja kriza zdravlja, međutim,
03:28
is a little more the work of the evil empire.
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još je malo više djelo zlog carstva.
03:31
We were told, we were assured,
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Bilo nam je rečeno, uvjeravali su nas,
03:34
that the more meat and dairy and poultry we ate,
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ako ćemo više jesti mesa, mliječnih proizvoda i peradi,
03:36
the healthier we'd be.
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bit ćemo zdraviji.
03:38
No. Overconsumption of animals, and of course, junk food,
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Ne. Pretjerana konzumacija životinja, i naravno, nezdrave hrane,
03:41
is the problem, along with our paltry consumption of plants.
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jest problem, kao i naša bijedna konzumacija biljaka.
03:45
Now, there's no time to get into the benefits of eating plants here,
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E sada, nemamo vremena za ulaziti u prednosti jedenja biljaka,
03:48
but the evidence is that plants -- and I want to make this clear --
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ali dokazano je kako biljke - i tu želim biti jasan -
03:51
it's not the ingredients in plants, it's the plants.
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ne sastojci biljaka, nego biljke.
03:55
It's not the beta-carotene, it's the carrot.
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Ne beta-karoten, nego mrkva.
03:58
The evidence is very clear that plants promote health.
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Dokazi su jasni kako biljke potpomažu zdravlje.
04:02
This evidence is overwhelming at this point.
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U ovoj točki dokazi pretežu.
04:04
You eat more plants, you eat less other stuff, you live longer.
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Ako jedete više biljaka, jedete manje drugih stvari, živite dulje.
04:08
Not bad.
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Nije loše.
04:10
But back to animals and junk food.
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No natrag na životinje i nezdravu hranu.
04:12
What do they have in common?
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Što oni imaju zajedničko?
04:14
One: we don't need either of them for health.
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Prvo: niti jedno od toga ne trebamo za zdravlje.
04:17
We don't need animal products,
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Ne trebamo životinjske proizvode,
04:19
and we certainly don't need white bread or Coke.
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i sasvim sigurno ne trebamo bijeli kruh i Coca-Colu.
04:22
Two: both have been marketed heavily,
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Drugo: oboje se intenzivno reklamiraju,
04:24
creating unnatural demand.
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stvarajući neprirodnu potražnju.
04:26
We're not born craving Whoppers or Skittles.
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Nismo rođeni sa željom za hamburgerima i bombonima.
04:31
Three: their production has been supported by government agencies
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Treće: njihovu proizvodnju podupiru vladine organizacije
04:34
at the expense of a more health- and Earth-friendly diet.
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nauštrb više zdravlja i ekološke hrane.
04:37
Now, let's imagine a parallel.
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Zamislimo sad paralelu.
04:41
Let's pretend that our government supported an oil-based economy,
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Pretvarajmo se da naša vlada podupire ekonomiju baziranu na nafti
04:44
while discouraging more sustainable forms of energy,
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dok destimulira održive oblike energije,
04:48
knowing all the while that the result would be
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znajući cijelo vrijeme da će rezultat biti
04:50
pollution, war and rising costs.
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zagađenje, rat i povećanje troškova.
04:52
Incredible, isn't it?
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Nevjerojatno, zar ne?
04:54
Yet they do that.
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Ali to ipak rade.
04:56
And they do this here. It's the same deal.
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To rade i ovdje. To je isti dogovor.
04:58
The sad thing is, when it comes to diet,
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Tužna stvar je, kada se radi o hrani,
05:00
is that even when well-intentioned Feds
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da čak i kada dobronamjerni
05:02
try to do right by us, they fail.
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vladini dužnosnici žele učiniti ispravnu stvar, ne uspiju.
05:07
Either they're outvoted by puppets of agribusiness,
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Ili su nadglasani lutkama agrarnog biznisa,
05:10
or they are puppets of agribusiness.
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ili su sami lutke agrarnog biznisa.
05:12
So, when the USDA finally acknowledged
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Američko Ministarstvo poljoprivrede napokon je priznalo
05:16
that it was plants, rather than animals, that made people healthy,
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da biljke, a ne životinje, čine ljude zdravima,
05:20
they encouraged us, via their overly simplistic food pyramid,
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potakli su nas, pomoću pojednostavljene piramide ishrane,
05:24
to eat five servings of fruits and vegetables a day,
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da jedemo pet obroka voća i povrća na dan,
05:27
along with more carbs.
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zajedno s više ugljikohidrata.
05:29
What they didn't tell us is that some carbs are better than others,
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Nisu nam rekli da su neki ugljikohidrati bolji od drugih,
05:32
and that plants and whole grains
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niti da biljke i cjelovite žitarice
05:34
should be supplanting eating junk food.
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trebaju zamijeniti prehranu nezdravom hranom.
05:36
But industry lobbyists would never let that happen.
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Ali lobisti industrije nikada to ne bi dopustili.
05:39
And guess what?
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I pogađate?
05:41
Half the people who developed the food pyramid
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Polovina ljudi koji su razvili piramidu hrane
05:43
have ties to agribusiness.
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imaju veze u agrarnom biznisu.
05:45
So, instead of substituting plants for animals,
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Tako umjesto zamjene životinja biljkama,
05:48
our swollen appetites simply became larger,
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naši ionako napuhani apetiti, jednostavno su postali veći,
05:51
and the most dangerous aspects of them remained unchanged.
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i njihovi najopasniji aspekti ostali su nepromijenjeni.
05:55
So-called low-fat diets, so-called low-carb diets --
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Takozvane dijete s malo masnoća, dijete s malo ugljikohidrata -
05:59
these are not solutions.
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nisu rješenja.
06:01
But with lots of intelligent people
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Ali s puno inteligentnih ljudi
06:03
focusing on whether food is organic or local,
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usredotočenih na to je li hrana organska ili lokalna,
06:06
or whether we're being nice to animals,
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te jesmo li dobri prema životinjama,
06:08
the most important issues just aren't being addressed.
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najvažniji problemi još nisu dotaknuti.
06:11
Now, don't get me wrong.
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E sad, nemojte me krivo shvatiti.
06:13
I like animals,
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Ja volim životinje,
06:15
and I don't think it's just fine to industrialize their production
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i ne mislim da je dobro industrijalizirati njihovu proizvodnju
06:18
and to churn them out like they were wrenches.
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i štancati ih kao ključeve.
06:21
But there's no way to treat animals well,
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Ali nema dobrog načina tretiranja životinja
06:24
when you're killing 10 billion of them a year.
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kad ih ubijaš 10 milijardi godišnje.
06:27
That's our number. 10 billion.
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To je naš broj. 10 milijardi.
06:29
If you strung all of them --
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Ako ih sve povežete jednu za drugom -
06:31
chickens, cows, pigs and lambs -- to the moon,
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piliće, krave, svinje, janjad - do Mjeseca
06:35
they'd go there and back five times, there and back.
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išle bi tamo i natrag pet puta - tamo i natrag.
06:37
Now, my math's a little shaky, but this is pretty good,
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E sada, moja matematika nije sjajna, ali to je prilično puno,
06:40
and it depends whether a pig is four feet long or five feet long,
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i ovisi je li svinja duga 1 ili 1.5 m,
06:43
but you get the idea.
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ali shvatili ste sliku.
06:45
That's just the United States.
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I to je samo u SAD-u.
06:48
And with our hyper-consumption of those animals
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Uz našu hiperkonzumaciju tih životinja,
06:50
producing greenhouse gases and heart disease,
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koja proizvodi stakleničke plinove i srčane bolesti,
06:53
kindness might just be a bit of a red herring.
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ljubaznost tek odvlači pažnju s glavne stvari.
06:56
Let's get the numbers of the animals we're killing for eating down,
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Smanjimo prvo broj životinja koje ubijamo za hranu,
07:00
and then we'll worry about being nice to the ones that are left.
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a tek onda brinimo o tome kako ćemo biti bolji prema onima koje su ostale.
07:04
Another red herring might be exemplified by the word "locavore,"
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Primjer još jedne distrakcije je riječ "lokavor",
07:08
which was just named word of the year by the New Oxford American Dictionary.
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koja je proglašena za riječ godine od rječnika New Oxford American Dictionary.
07:11
Seriously.
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Ozbiljno.
07:13
And locavore, for those of you who don't know,
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A lokavor je, za vas koji to ne znate,
07:15
is someone who eats only locally grown food --
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onaj tko jede samo lokalno uzgojenu hranu.
07:17
which is fine if you live in California,
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Što je u redu ako živite u Kaliforniji,
07:20
but for the rest of us it's a bit of a sad joke.
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ali za nas ostale to je pomalo tužna šala.
07:23
Between the official story -- the food pyramid --
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Između službene priče - piramide ishrane -
07:26
and the hip locavore vision,
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i popularne vizije lokavora,
07:28
you have two versions of how to improve our eating.
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imate dvije verzije kako popraviti našu ishranu.
07:30
(Laughter).
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(Smijeh).
07:32
They both get it wrong, though.
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Obje su krive, doduše.
07:34
The first at least is populist, and the second is elitist.
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Prva je u najmanju ruku populistička, a druga elitistička.
07:38
How we got to this place is the history of food in the United States.
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Kako smo dovde došli jest povijest prehrane u SAD-u.
07:42
And I'm going to go through that,
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Proći ću kroz nju,
07:44
at least the last hundred years or so, very quickly right now.
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barem kroz zadnjih 100 godina, vrlo brzo i upravo sada.
07:47
A hundred years ago, guess what?
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Prije sto godina, pogodite što?
07:49
Everyone was a locavore: even New York had pig farms nearby,
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Svi su bili lokavori, čak je i New York imao farme svinja u blizini
07:53
and shipping food all over the place was a ridiculous notion.
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i slanje hrane bilo kuda, bila je smiješna ideja.
07:57
Every family had a cook, usually a mom.
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Svaka obitelj imala je kuhara, najčešće majku.
08:00
And those moms bought and prepared food.
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I sve te mame kupovale su i pripremale hranu.
08:03
It was like your romantic vision of Europe.
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To je bilo kao vaša romatična vizija Europe.
08:05
Margarine didn't exist.
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Margarin nije postojao.
08:07
In fact, when margarine was invented,
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Štoviše, kada je margarin izmišljen,
08:10
several states passed laws declaring that it had to be dyed pink,
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u nekoliko država uveden je zakon da ga se mora obojati u ružičasto
08:14
so we'd all know that it was a fake.
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tako da svi znamo da je lažan.
08:17
There was no snack food, and until the '20s,
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Nije bilo brze hrane, do 20-tih godina,
08:19
until Clarence Birdseye came along, there was no frozen food.
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i dok nije stigao Clarence Birdseye, nije bilo niti smrznute hrane.
08:22
There were no restaurant chains.
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Nije bilo lanaca restorana.
08:25
There were neighborhood restaurants run by local people,
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Postojali su restorani u susjedstvu koje su vodili lokalni ljudi,
08:27
but none of them would think to open another one.
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i nitko nije pomišljao otvoriti još jedan.
08:29
Eating ethnic was unheard of unless you were ethnic.
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Za nacionalne kuhinje nitko nije čuo osim za onu svoju.
08:32
And fancy food was entirely French.
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Sva pomodna hrana bila je francuska.
08:35
As an aside, those of you who remember
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Usput, oni od vas koji se sjećaju
08:38
Dan Aykroyd in the 1970s doing Julia Child imitations
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kako je Dan Aykroyd 1970-tih imitirao Juliu Child
08:42
can see where he got the idea of stabbing himself from this fabulous slide.
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mogu vidjeti odakle mu iz ove nevjerojatne slike ideja da se rani.
08:47
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
08:48
Back in those days, before even Julia,
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Tih dana davno prije, i još prije Julie,
08:52
back in those days, there was no philosophy of food.
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tih dana nije bilo filozofije hrane.
08:54
You just ate.
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Jednostavno ste jeli.
08:56
You didn't claim to be anything.
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Niste tvrdili da ste išta.
08:58
There was no marketing. There were no national brands.
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Nije bilo marketinga. Nije bilo nacionalnih marki.
09:01
Vitamins had not been invented.
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Vitamini nisu bili izumljeni.
09:04
There were no health claims, at least not federally sanctioned ones.
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Nije bilo tvrdnji o zdravlju, barem ne onih koje bi država odobrila.
09:07
Fats, carbs, proteins -- they weren't bad or good, they were food.
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Masti, ugljikohidrati, proteini - nisu bili ni dobri ni loši, bili su hrana.
09:11
You ate food.
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Jeli ste hranu.
09:14
Hardly anything contained more than one ingredient,
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Skoro ništa nije imalo više od jednog sastojka,
09:16
because it was an ingredient.
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jer je ono samo bilo sastojak.
09:18
The cornflake hadn't been invented.
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Kukuruzne pahuljice nisu bile izumljene.
09:20
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
09:21
The Pop-Tart, the Pringle, Cheez Whiz, none of that stuff.
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Kolač Pop-Tart, čips Pringle, namaz Cheez Whiz, ništa od toga.
09:24
Goldfish swam.
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Zlatne ribice još su plivale.
09:26
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
09:28
It's hard to imagine. People grew food, and they ate food.
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Teško je to zamisliti. Ljudi su uzgajali hranu i jeli hranu.
09:31
And again, everyone ate local.
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I opet, svi su jeli lokalno.
09:34
In New York, an orange was a common Christmas present,
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U New Yorku, naranča je bila uobičajeni poklon za Božić,
09:37
because it came all the way from Florida.
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jer je prošle cijeli put od Floride.
09:41
From the '30s on, road systems expanded,
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Od 30-tih na ovamo, razvio se cestovni sustav,
09:43
trucks took the place of railroads,
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kamioni su zauzeli mjesto željeznica,
09:45
fresh food began to travel more.
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svježa hrana počela je više putovati.
09:47
Oranges became common in New York.
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Naranče su postale uobičajene u New Yorku.
09:49
The South and West became agricultural hubs,
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Jug i zapad postali su poljoprivredni centri,
09:52
and in other parts of the country, suburbs took over farmland.
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a u drugim dijelovima zemlje poljoprivredna zemljišta zamijenjena su predgrađima.
09:55
The effects of this are well known. They are everywhere.
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Učinci toga dobro su poznati, i oni su posvuda.
09:58
And the death of family farms is part of this puzzle,
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I smrt obiteljskih farmi dio je te zagonetke
10:01
as is almost everything
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kao što je i skoro sve
10:03
from the demise of the real community
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od nestanka stvarne zajednice
10:05
to the challenge of finding a good tomato, even in summer.
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do izazova traganja za pravom rajčicom, čak i ljeti.
10:09
Eventually, California produced too much food to ship fresh,
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Na kraju je Kalifornija proizvodila previše hrane da je šalje svježu,
10:13
so it became critical to market canned and frozen foods.
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pa je postalo ključno započeti trgovinu konzerviranom i zamrznutom hranom.
10:16
Thus arrived convenience.
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Tada je stigao komfor.
10:18
It was sold to proto-feminist housewives
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Prodavan je pretečama feminističkih kućanica
10:20
as a way to cut down on housework.
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kao način da smanje kućanske poslove.
10:22
Now, I know everybody over the age of, like 45 --
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E sad, znam da svakom starijem od 45 godina -
10:25
their mouths are watering at this point.
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sline cure u ovom trenutku.
10:27
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
10:28
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
10:29
If we had a slide of Salisbury steak, even more so, right?
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Ako bismo pojeli Salisbury odrezak, još i više, zar ne?
10:33
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
10:35
But this may have cut down on housework,
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Ali to je možda smanjilo kućanske poslove,
10:37
but it cut down on the variety of food we ate as well.
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ali je također smanjilo i raznolikost hrane koju jedemo.
10:40
Many of us grew up never eating a fresh vegetable
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Mnogi su od nas odrasli, a da nikad nisu jeli svježe povrće
10:44
except the occasional raw carrot or maybe an odd lettuce salad.
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osim poneke sirove mrkve i lista salate.
10:48
I, for one -- and I'm not kidding --
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Ni ja za početak - a ne šalim se -
10:50
didn't eat real spinach or broccoli till I was 19.
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nisam jeo pravi špinat ni brokulu do moje 19. godine.
10:54
Who needed it though? Meat was everywhere.
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Tko je to trebao? Meso je bilo posvuda.
10:56
What could be easier, more filling or healthier for your family
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Što može biti jednostavnije, zasitnije i zdravije za vašu obitelj
10:59
than broiling a steak?
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od prženog odreska?
11:01
But by then cattle were already raised unnaturally.
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No u to vrijeme stoka je već uzgajana neprirodno.
11:05
Rather than spending their lives eating grass,
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Umjesto da provode svoje živote jedući travu
11:07
for which their stomachs were designed,
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za što su njihovi želuci dizajnirani,
11:10
they were forced to eat soy and corn.
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prisiljavani su jesti soju i kukuruz.
11:12
They have trouble digesting those grains, of course,
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Naravno, imali su problema s probavom tog zrnja,
11:15
but that wasn't a problem for producers.
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ali to nije bio problem proizvođača.
11:18
New drugs kept them healthy.
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Novi lijekovi održavali su ih zdravima.
11:21
Well, they kept them alive.
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Zapravo, održavali su ih živima.
11:23
Healthy was another story.
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Zdravlje je druga priča.
11:25
Thanks to farm subsidies,
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Zahvaljajući subvencijama za farme,
11:27
the fine collaboration between agribusiness and Congress,
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i dobroj suradnji agrarnog biznisa i Kongresa,
11:30
soy, corn and cattle became king.
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soja, kukuruz i stoka postali su kraljevi.
11:32
And chicken soon joined them on the throne.
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A piletina im se ubrzo pridružila na tronu.
11:35
It was during this period that the cycle of
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Upravo unutar tog perioda je ciklus
11:38
dietary and planetary destruction began,
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prehrambene i planetarne destrukcije započeo,
11:40
the thing we're only realizing just now.
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stvar koju shvaćamo tek sad.
11:42
Listen to this,
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Poslušajte ovo,
11:44
between 1950 and 2000, the world's population doubled.
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između 1950. i 2000. svjetsko stanovništvo se udvostručilo.
11:49
Meat consumption increased five-fold.
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Konzumacija mesa porasla je pet puta.
11:52
Now, someone had to eat all that stuff, so we got fast food.
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E sad, netko je trebao pojesti sve to, pa smo dobili brzu hranu.
11:59
And this took care of the situation resoundingly.
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I ona se pobrinula za situaciju glasno odjekujući.
12:02
Home cooking remained the norm, but its quality was down the tubes.
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Kuhanje kod kuće je ostalo norma, ali mu se kvaliteta srozala do dna.
12:06
There were fewer meals with home-cooked breads, desserts and soups,
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Bilo je manje obroka s domaćim kruhom, desertima i juhama,
12:10
because all of them could be bought at any store.
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jer ih se sve moglo kupiti u bilo kojoj trgovini.
12:12
Not that they were any good, but they were there.
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Nije da su bili dobri, ali bili su tamo.
12:15
Most moms cooked like mine:
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Većina majki kuhala je kao moja -
12:17
a piece of broiled meat, a quickly made salad with bottled dressing,
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komad prženog mesa, na brzinu pripremljena salata s umakom iz boce,
12:21
canned soup, canned fruit salad.
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juha iz konzerve, voćna salata iz konzerve.
12:23
Maybe baked or mashed potatoes,
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Možda pečeni ili pire krumpir
12:26
or perhaps the stupidest food ever, Minute Rice.
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ili valjda najgluplja hrana ikad - "riža za minutu".
12:29
For dessert, store-bought ice cream or cookies.
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Za desert, kupljeni sladoled ili keksi iz trgovine
12:33
My mom is not here, so I can say this now.
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Moja mama nije ovdje, pa to mogu sad reći.
12:37
This kind of cooking drove me to learn how to cook for myself.
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Ovaj način kuhanja natjerao me da sam naučim kuhati
12:41
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
12:42
It wasn't all bad.
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Nije sve bilo tako loše.
12:44
By the '70s, forward-thinking people
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Do 70-tih, ljudi naprednih razmišljanja
12:46
began to recognize the value of local ingredients.
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počeli su shvaćati vrijednost lokalnih namirnica.
12:49
We tended gardens, we became interested in organic food,
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Težili smo vrtovima, postali smo zainteresirani za organsku hranu,
12:52
we knew or we were vegetarians.
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poznavali smo ili smo sami bili vegetarijanci.
12:54
We weren't all hippies, either.
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Nismo svi bili ni hipiji.
12:56
Some of us were eating in good restaurants and learning how to cook well.
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Neki od nas jeli su u dobrim restoranima i učili kako dobro kuhati.
12:59
Meanwhile, food production had become industrial. Industrial.
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U međuvremenu proizvodnja hrane postala je industrijska. Industrijska.
13:04
Perhaps because it was being produced rationally,
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Možda zato što su je proizvodili racionalno
13:07
as if it were plastic,
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kao da je plastika,
13:09
food gained magical or poisonous powers, or both.
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hrana je dobila magijsku ili otrovnu snagu, ili oboje.
13:13
Many people became fat-phobic.
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Mnogi ljudi postali su masno-fobični.
13:15
Others worshiped broccoli, as if it were God-like.
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Drugi su obožavali brokulu kao da je božanstvo.
13:19
But mostly they didn't eat broccoli.
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No uglavnom nisu jeli brokulu.
13:21
Instead they were sold on yogurt,
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Umjesto toga prodavana je u jogurtu,
13:23
yogurt being almost as good as broccoli.
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jogurtu koji je gotovo jednako dobar kao brokula.
13:25
Except, in reality, the way the industry sold yogurt
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Osim što je, u stvarnosti, način na koji je industrija prodavala jogurt
13:28
was to convert it to something much more akin to ice cream.
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bio takav da ga se pretvori u nešto više nalik na sladoled.
13:31
Similarly, let's look at a granola bar.
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Slično, pogledajmo muesli pločicu.
13:34
You think that that might be healthy food,
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Pomislite kako to može biti zdrava hrana,
13:36
but in fact, if you look at the ingredient list,
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ali zapravo, ako pogledate popis sastojaka,
13:38
it's closer in form to a Snickers than it is to oatmeal.
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po obliku je bliži Snickersu nego zobenoj kaši.
13:43
Sadly, it was at this time that the family dinner was put in a coma,
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Tužno, no upravo u to doba obiteljske večere su pale u komu,
13:46
if not actually killed --
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ako nisu u stvari ubijene.
13:49
the beginning of the heyday of value-added food,
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Početak vrhunca snage poboljšane hrane,
13:52
which contained as many soy and corn products
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koja je sadržavala onoliko sojinih i kukuruznih proizvoda
13:54
as could be crammed into it.
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koliko se moglo u nju natrpati.
13:56
Think of the frozen chicken nugget.
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Razmislite o zamrznutim pilećim popečcima.
13:58
The chicken is fed corn, and then its meat is ground up,
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Piliće hrane kukuruzom, zatim se njihovo meso melje
14:01
and mixed with more corn products to add bulk and binder,
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i miješa s još kukuruznih proizvoda kako bi im se dodala masa i vezivo,
14:05
and then it's fried in corn oil.
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i potom se peče u kukuruznom ulju.
14:09
All you do is nuke it. What could be better?
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Samo ga ubacite u mikrovalnu. Što može biti bolje?
14:12
And zapped horribly, pathetically.
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I grozno ozračeno mikrovalovima, patetično.
14:15
By the '70s, home cooking was in such a sad state
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Do 70-tih kuhanje kod kuće bilo je u tako tužnom stanju
14:19
that the high fat and spice contents of foods
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da su visoke razine masti i začina u hrani
14:22
like McNuggets and Hot Pockets --
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poput McNuggets i Hot Pockets -
14:24
and we all have our favorites, actually --
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a svi imamo svoje favorite, zaista -
14:27
made this stuff more appealing than the bland things
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učinile te stvari primamljivijima nego što su one pristojne stvari
14:29
that people were serving at home.
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što su ih ljudi imali doma.
14:31
At the same time, masses of women were entering the workforce,
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Istovremeno, horde žena su postajale radna snaga,
14:35
and cooking simply wasn't important enough
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a kuhanje jednostavno nije bilo dovoljno važno
14:37
for men to share the burden.
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da bi muškarci podijelili teret.
14:39
So now, you've got your pizza nights, you've got your microwave nights,
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Tako sada imate vaše večeri pizze, imate vaše mikrovalne večeri,
14:42
you've got your grazing nights,
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imate vaše večeri jedenja po malo,
14:44
you've got your fend-for-yourself nights and so on.
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imate vaše večeri u kojima se svatko pobrine za sebe, i tako dalje.
14:47
Leading the way -- what's leading the way?
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A vođa puta - što je vođa puta?
14:50
Meat, junk food, cheese:
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Meso, nezdrava hrana, sir.
14:52
the very stuff that will kill you.
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Upravo one stvari koje će vas ubiti.
14:54
So, now we clamor for organic food.
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I sada glasno zahtijevamo organsku hranu.
14:56
That's good.
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To je dobro.
14:58
And as evidence that things can actually change,
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A kao dokaz da se stvari stvarno mogu promijeniti,
15:00
you can now find organic food in supermarkets,
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sada organsku hranu možete pronaći u supermarketima,
15:02
and even in fast-food outlets.
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čak i u radnjama brze hrane.
15:04
But organic food isn't the answer either,
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Ali organska hrana isto nije odgovor,
15:06
at least not the way it's currently defined.
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barem ne na onaj način kako je sada definirana.
15:09
Let me pose you a question.
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Da vas pitam nešto.
15:11
Can farm-raised salmon be organic,
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Može li losos uzgajan na farmi biti organski
15:13
when its feed has nothing to do with its natural diet,
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kad se ne hrani ničim što je njegova prirodna hrana,
15:18
even if the feed itself is supposedly organic, and the fish themselves
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čak i ako je sama hrana, pretpostavimo, organska, a ribe
15:22
are packed tightly in pens, swimming in their own filth?
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gusto pakirane u torove, plivaju u vlastitoj prljavštini?
15:27
And if that salmon's from Chile, and it's killed down there
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I ako je taj losos iz Čilea i ubijen je tamo dolje
15:31
and then flown 5,000 miles, whatever,
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i onda letio 8000 kilometara, koliko već,
15:34
dumping how much carbon into the atmosphere?
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izbacujući koliko ugljika u atmosferu?
15:37
I don't know.
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Ne znam.
15:39
Packed in Styrofoam, of course,
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Pakiran u stiropor, naravno,
15:41
before landing somewhere in the United States,
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prije nego sleti negdje u SAD
15:44
and then being trucked a few hundred more miles.
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i onda se vozi kamionom nekoliko stotina kilometara dalje.
15:46
This may be organic in letter, but it's surely not organic in spirit.
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To je možda organsko u riječima, ali sigurno nije organsko u duhu.
15:52
Now here is where we all meet.
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E sada se svi tu sastajemo.
15:54
The locavores, the organivores, the vegetarians,
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Lokavori, organivori, vegetarijanci,
15:57
the vegans, the gourmets
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vegani, gurmani
15:59
and those of us who are just plain interested in good food.
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i oni među nama koji su samo zainteresirani za dobru hranu.
16:03
Even though we've come to this from different points,
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Iako smo ovamo došli iz različitih smjerova,
16:06
we all have to act on our knowledge
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moramo djelovati na naše znanje
16:08
to change the way that everyone thinks about food.
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kako bismo promijenili način na koji svi razmišljaju o hrani.
16:12
We need to start acting.
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Moramo početi djelovati.
16:14
And this is not only an issue of social justice, as Ann Cooper said --
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I to nije samo pitanje društvene pravde, kako je Ann Cooper rekla -
16:18
and, of course, she's completely right --
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i, naravno, potpuno je u pravu -
16:20
but it's also one of global survival.
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nego i pitanje globalnog opstanka.
16:22
Which bring me full circle and points directly to the core issue,
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Što me vodi da zatvorim krug i izravno ukažem na ključni problem,
16:27
the overproduction and overconsumption of meat and junk food.
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pretjeranu proizvodnju i konzumaciju mesa i nezdrave hrane.
16:31
As I said, 18 percent of greenhouse gases
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Kao što sam rekao, 18% stakleničkih plinova
16:34
are attributed to livestock production.
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potječe od stočarske proizvodnje.
16:37
How much livestock do you need to produce this?
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Koliko nam stoke treba da to proizvedemo?
16:40
70 percent of the agricultural land on Earth,
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70% poljoprivrednih zemljišta na Zemlji.
16:43
30 percent of the Earth's land surface is directly or indirectly devoted
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30% Zemljine kopnene površine izravno je ili neizravno posvećeno
16:49
to raising the animals we'll eat.
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uzgoju životinja koje ćemo pojesti.
16:52
And this amount is predicted to double in the next 40 years or so.
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A predviđa se da će se taj broj udvostručiti u sljedećih 40-tak godina.
16:55
And if the numbers coming in from China
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A ako brojevi koji dolaze iz Kine
16:57
are anything like what they look like now,
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budu imalo nalik na ono na što sada sliče,
17:00
it's not going to be 40 years.
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neće nam niti trebati 40 godina.
17:02
There is no good reason for eating as much meat as we do.
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Nema dobrog razloga za jesti tako puno mesa kao što činimo.
17:06
And I say this as a man who has eaten a fair share of corned beef in his life.
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A to kažem kao čovjek koji je pojeo popriličnu količinu usoljene govedine u svom životu.
17:11
The most common argument is that we need nutrients --
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Najčešći argument je da trebamo hranjive sastojke -
17:14
even though we eat, on average, twice as much protein
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iako jedemo, u prosjeku, dva puta više proteina
17:17
as even the industry-obsessed USDA recommends.
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nego što nam je čak industrijom opsjednuto Američko Ministarstvo poljoprivrede preporučilo.
17:22
But listen: experts who are serious about disease reduction
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No slušajte - stručnjaci koji su ozbiljni u vezi smanjenja bolesti
17:26
recommend that adults eat just over half a pound of meat per week.
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preporučuju da odrasli jedu 25 dekagrama mesa na tjedan.
17:32
What do you think we eat per day? Half a pound.
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Što mislite koliko pojedete na dan? 25 dekagrama.
17:36
But don't we need meat to be big and strong?
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Ali zar ne trebamo meso da budemo veliki i jaki?
17:39
Isn't meat eating essential to health?
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Nije li meso nužno za zdravlje?
17:42
Won't a diet heavy in fruit and vegetables
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Neće li nas prehrana puna voća i povrća
17:44
turn us into godless, sissy, liberals?
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pretvoriti u bezbožne, kukavičke, liberale?
17:47
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
17:48
Some of us might think that would be a good thing.
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Neki od nas možda misle da bi to bila dobra stvar.
17:51
But, no, even if we were all steroid-filled football players,
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Ali, ne, čak i da smo steroidima punjeni nogometaši,
17:56
the answer is no.
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odgovor je ne.
17:58
In fact, there's no diet on Earth that meets
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Štoviše, nema načina prehrane na Zemlji koja ispunjava
18:02
basic nutritional needs that won't promote growth,
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osnovne prehrambene potrebe a koji neće poticati rast,
18:06
and many will make you much healthier than ours does.
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a mnogi će vas učiniti puno zdravijima nego naš.
18:09
We don't eat animal products for sufficient nutrition,
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Ne jedemo životinjske proizvode za dostatnu ishranu,
18:12
we eat them to have an odd form of malnutrition, and it's killing us.
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jedemo ih da dobijemo čudan oblik neishranjenosti, i to nas ubija.
18:18
To suggest that in the interests of personal and human health
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Predlažem da u interesu osobnog i ljudskog zdravlja
18:21
Americans eat 50 percent less meat --
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Amerikanci jedu 50% manje mesa -
18:24
it's not enough of a cut, but it's a start.
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to nije dovoljan rez, ali je početak.
18:27
It would seem absurd, but that's exactly what should happen,
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Izgledat će apsurdno, ali to je upravo ono što se mora dogoditi,
18:32
and what progressive people, forward-thinking people
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i što napredni ljudi, naprednih razmišljanja
18:35
should be doing and advocating,
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trebaju raditi i zagovarati,
18:38
along with the corresponding increase in the consumption of plants.
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zajedno s odgovarajućim povećanjem konzumacije biljaka.
18:42
I've been writing about food more or less omnivorously --
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O hrani pišem više manje kao svejed -
18:45
one might say indiscriminately -- for about 30 years.
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rekli bi neselektivno - već 30 godina.
18:48
During that time, I've eaten
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U toku tog vremena jeo sam
18:50
and recommended eating just about everything.
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i preporučio za jelo gotovo sve.
18:54
I'll never stop eating animals, I'm sure,
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I nikad neću prestati jesti životinje, siguran sam,
18:57
but I do think that for the benefit of everyone,
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ali mislim da je za dobrobit svih,
18:59
the time has come to stop raising them industrially
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došlo vrijeme da ih prestanemo uzgajati industrijski
19:02
and stop eating them thoughtlessly.
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i prestanemo ih jesti bez razmišljanja.
19:04
Ann Cooper's right.
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Ann Cooper ima pravo.
19:06
The USDA is not our ally here.
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Američko Ministarstvo poljoprivrede nam ovdje nije saveznik.
19:11
We have to take matters into our own hands,
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Moramo stvari uzeti u vlastite ruke,
19:13
not only by advocating for a better diet for everyone --
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ne samo zagovaranjem bolje prehrane za svakoga -
19:16
and that's the hard part -- but by improving our own.
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to je težak dio - već poboljšanjem naše vlastite.
19:20
And that happens to be quite easy.
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A to je prilično jednostavno.
19:22
Less meat, less junk, more plants.
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Manje mesa, manje nezdravog, više biljaka.
19:25
It's a simple formula: eat food.
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Formula je jednostavna - jedite hranu.
19:27
Eat real food.
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Jedite pravu hranu.
19:29
We can continue to enjoy our food, and we continue to eat well,
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Možemo nastaviti uživati u hrani, i možemo nastaviti jesti dobro,
19:33
and we can eat even better.
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a možemo jesti još i bolje.
19:35
We can continue the search for the ingredients we love,
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Možemo nastaviti potragu za namirnicama koje volimo,
19:38
and we can continue to spin yarns about our favorite meals.
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i možemo nastaviti ispredati priče o našim najdražim jelima.
19:43
We'll reduce not only calories, but our carbon footprint.
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Smanjit ćemo ne samo kalorije, nego i naš utjecaj na okoliš.
19:47
We can make food more important, not less,
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Možemo hranu učiniti važnijom, a ne manje važnom,
19:50
and save ourselves by doing so.
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i spasiti sami sebe čineći to.
19:52
We have to choose that path.
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Moramo odabrati taj put.
19:55
Thank you.
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Hvala.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Mark Bittman - Food writerMark Bittman is a bestselling cookbook author, journalist and television personality. His friendly, informal approach to home cooking has shown millions that fancy execution is no substitute for flavor and soul.
Why you should listen
Although Mark Bittman never formally trained as a chef, his pursuits as a curious and tenacious foodie have made him a casual culinary master. His weekly New York Times food column, The Minimalist, meshes accessible and inexpensive ingredients with "anyone-can" cooking techniques to produce exceedingly delicious dishes. Bittman's funny, friendly attitude and trademark informal approach to food-craft extend to his blockbuster TV programs (which retain delays and mishaps that other producers would edit out), his blog, Bitten, and ambitious cookbooks, like How to Cook Everything and The Best Recipes in the World.
After a decade as the "Minimalist," Bittman has emerged a respected spokesperson on all things edible: He's concerned about the ecological and health impacts of our modern diet, which he characterizes as overwhelmingly meat-centered and hooked on fast food. His criticism has the world listening: His revolutionary How to Cook Everything Vegetarian (sequel to How to Cook Everything), is a bestseller, and his memorable talk at the 2007 EG Conference (available now on TED.com) delivered a stinging condemnation of the way we eat now. A subsequent New York Times article pursued the same argument.
Bittman's newest book, Food Matters, explores the link between our eating habits and the environment, offering an accessible plan for a planet-friendly diet.
Mark Bittman | Speaker | TED.com